KR960012821B1 - Preparing process for complex drawing textured yarn having impressing hemp - Google Patents

Preparing process for complex drawing textured yarn having impressing hemp Download PDF

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KR960012821B1
KR960012821B1 KR1019940037455A KR19940037455A KR960012821B1 KR 960012821 B1 KR960012821 B1 KR 960012821B1 KR 1019940037455 A KR1019940037455 A KR 1019940037455A KR 19940037455 A KR19940037455 A KR 19940037455A KR 960012821 B1 KR960012821 B1 KR 960012821B1
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yarn
range
hemp
heater
unsealed
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KR1019940037455A
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Korean (ko)
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KR960023341A (en
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강병수
장동호
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동양폴리에스터 주식회사
배도
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The polyester finished yarn is made by pre-untwisting yarn obtained from partially oriented polyester yarn(POY). The pre-untwisting yarn has a filament fineness of grey yarn in the range of 1.6= d.p.f= 3.4 and a draw ratio of 1.250= D/R= 1.450, which is passed through the first heater at 220-247 deg.C and second heater at 190-230 deg.C to give the finished yarn. The finished yarn has a good shari feeling.

Description

마의 질감을 갖는 폴리에스터 가동사 제조방법Manufacturing method of polyester movable yarn with hemp texture

제1도는 본 발명의 가공사 제조공정도이다.1 is a manufacturing process drawing of the processed yarn of the present invention.

본 발명은 마(麻)와 유사한 특징을 갖는 가공사 제조 기술에 관한 것으로, 폴리에스터 반연신사를 (POY)가연시 해연장력을 낮추어 미해연사를 제조하는 폴리에스터 가공사 제조방법이며, 이 미해연사로 직, 편물을 제조하면 마제품의 특징인 까칠한 질감(shari 감), 독특힌 광택을 부여가능케 한 것이다.The present invention relates to a processing yarn manufacturing technology having characteristics similar to hemp, and is a polyester processing yarn manufacturing method for producing unsealed yarns by lowering the tensile strength of polyester semi-stretched yarns during (POY) combustion. In this way, the manufacture of knitted fabrics gives the horse a characteristic shari texture and unique luster.

합성섬유에 천연섬유와 유사한 심미한 외관, 질감을 부여하기 위하여 여러가지 가공법이 개발되었으며, 특히 마(麻)는 우수한 광택과 태세(太細)부위가 있는 외관, 독특힌 까칠한 질감을 특징으로 하므로 이의 특성을 부여하기 위한 가공기술이 상당수가 있다. (일본특개소 59-94639, 동 57-29628, 동 54-27040호).Various processing methods have been developed to give the synthetic fiber aesthetic appearance and texture similar to that of natural fiber. Especially, hemp is characterized by its excellent gloss and appearance, and its unique rough texture. There are many processing techniques for imparting characteristics. (Japanese Patent Office 59-94639, East 57-29628, East 54-27040).

이러한 종래의 기술은 2종 또는 1종의 연신사(또는 반연신사)를 복합융착가연 또는 단사융착가연하여 까칠한 감을 부여하는 것으로서, 제조 조건상 사속이 낮아 생산성이 떨어지고, 잔류토우크가 커서 후공정성이 매우 나쁘다는 단점이 있다.This conventional technique is to give two or one kinds of drawn yarns (or semi-drawn yarns) to give a rough feeling by composite fusion or single yarn fusion combustion, and due to the manufacturing conditions, the yarn speed is low, the productivity is low, and the residual torque is large, resulting in post-processability. The disadvantage is that it is very bad.

본 발명의 목적은 상술한 문제점을 해결하고자 하는 것으로, 적정 제조조건 설정에 의한 생산성 증대 및 잔류토오크 제거에 의한 후공정성을 향상시켜 마의 외관 및 질감을 갖는 가공사를 제조하는 방법을 제공함을 특징으로 한다.An object of the present invention is to solve the above problems, it is characterized in that it provides a method for producing a processed yarn having the appearance and texture of hemp by improving productivity by setting the appropriate manufacturing conditions and post-processability by removing residual torque. .

즉, 본 발명은 일반 폴리에스터 반연신사(POY)를 미해연사로 제조함에 있어서, 원사의 단사 섬도가 1.6d.p.f3.4범위이며 가공사 제조시 1차 및 2차 히터를 통과시켜 연신비가 1.250D/R1.450범위내의 미해연사를 수득케하는 마의 질감을 폴리에스터 가공사 제조방법이다.That is, in the present invention, in the manufacture of general polyester semi-drawn yarn (POY) by unsealed yarn, the single yarn fineness of the yarn is 1.6 dpf The range is 3.4, and the draw ratio is 1.250 by passing the primary and secondary heaters in the manufacturing of the processing yarn. D / R The texture of the hemp to obtain unsealed twisted yarn in the range of 1.450 is a method for producing polyester processed yarn.

다시말하면, 본 발명은 일반 가연사 제조 공정과는 달리 해연장력을 낮춤으로써 미해연 부위를 의도적으로 만들고 1차 히터에서 열처리에 의해 융착시키며, 2차 히터에서의 열세팅에 의해 가공사의 잔류토오크를 최소한으로 하여 가공사를 제조하는 데 있다.In other words, the present invention, unlike the general false twisted yarn manufacturing process by lowering the decompression tension intentionally made unsealed areas and fusion by heat treatment in the primary heater, the residual torque of the processed yarn by heat setting in the secondary heater The minimum is to manufacture a processed yarn.

이하 본 발명을 도면을 참조하여 상세히 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings.

제1도는 본 발명의 방법을 실시하기 위한 공정개략도로서 원사 (A)를 피드롤러(1)를 통해 가변기에 공급한다. 사용하는 원사는 일반 폴리에스터 반연신사로서 방사속도 2800~3200m/min 범위로서 강도 2.5~3.0g/d, 신도 90~140%, 비수축율 45~70%의 수준이다.1 is a process schematic diagram for carrying out the method of the present invention, in which yarn (A) is fed through a feed roller (1) to a variable unit. The yarn used is a general polyester semi-stretched yarn with a spinning speed of 2800 ~ 3200m / min, strength of 2.5 ~ 3.0g / d, elongation of 90 ~ 140%, and shrinkage ratio of 45 ~ 70%.

또한 미해연사 품질에 크게 영향을 미치는 단사 섬도(d.p.f)는 1.6~3.4 수준이 적절하다. 단사섬도가 3.4를 초과할 때는 통상 1차 히터(B)에 의한 융착효과가 떨어지므로 온도를 과도하게 높여야하고, 단사섬도가 1.6미만에서는 작업성 저하 및 가공사의 물성이 너무 취약하여 후공정성이 나쁘다.In addition, the single yarn fineness (d.p.f), which greatly affects the quality of unsealed yarn, is appropriate at 1.6 ~ 3.4 level. When the single yarn fineness exceeds 3.4, the fusion effect by the primary heater (B) is usually lowered. Therefore, the temperature must be excessively increased. When the single yarn fineness is less than 1.6, the workability is poor and the physical properties of the processed yarn are too weak, resulting in poor post-processability. .

본 발명에서의 공급되는 원사(A)는 피드롤러(1)(2) 사이에서 연신가연되고 피드롤러(2)(3) 사이에서 열고정되는데, 각 요소의 중요조건을 설명하면 다음과 같다.Yarn A to be supplied in the present invention is stretched and smoked between the feed roller (1) (2) and heat-set between the feed roller (2) (3), explaining the important conditions of each element as follows.

피드롤러(1)(2) 사이에서의 연신비는 1.250D/R1.450 정도가 되어야 양호한 품질의 미해연사를 재조할 수 있으며, 이는 일반 연신가연사 연신비의 20~90% 수준으로써 연신비가 낮을수록 보다 까칠한 가공사를 얻을 수 있고 연신비가 높을수록 미해연 효과가 적은 다공사가 얻어진다.The draw ratio between the feed rollers (1) and (2) is 1.250 D / R It should be about 1.450 to manufacture good quality unsealed yarn, which is 20 ~ 90% of the general drawer's drawing ratio. Obtained.

가연영역에서 1차 히터(B)의 온도는 220~247℃ 범위가 양호하며 220℃미만에서는 히터 열처리에 의한 가공사의 융착 정도가 미흡하여 목표하는 질감을 얻을 수 없을 뿐만아니라 이염효과(농색과 담색 부위 발현)에 의한 제품 품위 저하가 있을 수 있다. 247℃초과시에는 과도한 열처리에 의한 사물성 취약, 작업성 저하, 설비 고장등의 원인이 될 수 있다.In the combustible area, the temperature of the primary heater (B) is good in the range of 220 to 247 ° C. If the temperature of the primary heater B is less than 220 ° C, the degree of fusion of the processed yarn due to the heat treatment of the heater is insufficient, so that the target texture cannot be obtained. Product deterioration). If it exceeds 247 ℃, it may cause the weakness of object due to excessive heat treatment, deterioration of workability, and equipment failure.

또한 해연장력(T2)과 가연장력(T1)의 비(K=T2/T1)는 0.15K0.55가 적절하다. (일반 연신 가연 공정시 0.7K1.1범위) 즉 해연장력을 낮추어 의도적으로 미해연 부위를 만든다. 이때 해연장력을 지나치게 낮추면 (K0.15), 가연유니트 이후 시만 떨림 현상으로 작업성이 현저히 저하된다. K값(=T2/R1)을 상기 범주내로 설정하기 위해서는 가연방식이 벨트타입의 경우 꼬임수(θ)와 VB/Vy(가연벨트의 선속도/사속)로 조정하며, 꼬임수(θ)는 데니어별 일반 연신가연의 값보다 낮게 즉, 75%θ/θ0 95% 범위가 적절하다(θ0: 일반적인 공정의 꼬임수).In addition, non-(K = T 2 / T 1 ) is 0.15 haeyeon of tension (T 2) and a false twist tension (T 1) K 0.55 is appropriate. (At the time of general stretching flaming process 0.7 K 1.1 range), that is, lowering the tension extension intentionally creating unburned areas. If you lower the extension tension too much (K 0.15), workability is remarkably degraded due to the shivering phenomenon only after the flammable unit. To set the K value (= T 2 / R 1 ) within the above range, adjust the twist type to the twist number (θ) and V B / V y (linear speed / spin speed of the twist belt) for the belt type. (θ) is lower than the normal draw value for each denier, that is, 75% θ / θ 0 The 95% range is appropriate (θ 0 : twist in normal processes).

미해연된 사는 잔류토오크가 커서 후공정성을 저하시키므로 본 발명은 2차 히터(D)에서 열고정하여 잔류토오크를 제거하였는바, 2차 히터 온도는 190~230℃범위가 적절하다. 이는 190℃미만에서 열교정 효과가 미약하여 잔류토오크 제거가 어려우며, 230℃ 초과시에는 높은 열처리에 의한 사손상으로 가공사 물성이 취약해진다.Since the unburned yarn has a large residual torque and thus lowers post-processability, the present invention heat-sets the secondary heater D to remove the residual torque, and the secondary heater temperature is appropriately in the range of 190 to 230 ° C. It is difficult to remove the residual torque because the heat correction effect is less than 190 ℃, and the processed yarn properties are weak due to the damage caused by high heat treatment above 230 ℃.

본 발명에 의해 제조된 가공사 또는 직, 편물은 천연 마(麻)와 유사하게 독특한 광택 및 터치감을 가지며, 여성용 의류용으로 쓰이게 된다.Processed yarns, wovens, and knitted fabrics produced by the present invention have a unique luster and touch, similar to natural hemp, and are used for women's clothing.

이하 본 발명을 실시예를 들어 상세히 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples.

실시예 1Example 1

일반 폴리에스터 반연신사(POY) 130d/72f(방사속도=3200m/min)를 원사로 하여 벨트타입 가연기에서 1.2차 히터를 거쳐 아래의 공정으로 미해 연사를 제조하였다.General polyester semi-stretched yarn (POY) 130 d / 72 f (spinning speed = 3200m / min) as a yarn through the 1.2 heater in a belt type combustor was produced in the following process by the following process.

사소 480m/min, 연신비 1.400, 1차 히터 235℃, 2차 히터 200℃ K값 0.3, 가연벨트 선속도/사속(VBVy) 0.682480 m / min, elongation ratio 1.400, primary heater 235 ° C, secondary heater 200 ° C K value 0.3, flammable belt linear speed / dead velocity (V B V y ) 0.682

피드롤러(1) 속도 342m/min.Feed roller (1) speed 342 m / min.

피드롤러(3) 속도 462m/min.Feed roller (3) Speed 462 m / min.

권취롤러(4) 속도 471m/min.Take-up roller (4) Speed 471 m / min.

상기의 가공사를 제직한 후(경사밀도=140분/in, 위사밀도=65분/in, 평직)일반적인 폴리에서터 직물 가공 조건으로 염색가공 하였다.After weaving the processed yarn (inclined density = 140 minutes / in, weft density = 65 minutes / in, plain weave) was dyed under normal polyether fabric processing conditions.

실시예 2Example 2

일반 폴리에스터 반연신사 (POY) 80d/36f(방사속도=3000m/min)를 원사로 하여 실시예 1의 공정과 동일하게 가공사 제조 후 제직, 가공하였다. (경사밀도는 152본/in, 위사밀도 70본/in, 평직)General polyester semi-stretched yarn (POY) 80 d / 36 f (spinning speed = 3000 m / min) was used as the yarn in the same manner as in the process of Example 1, after weaving, weaving and processing. (Bevel density is 152 / in, weft density 70 / in, plain weave)

실시예 3Example 3

실시예 1의 원사로 아래의 조건만 변화시키고 나머지는 동일 조건으로 하여 가공사 제조 후 제직, 가공하였다.Only the following conditions were changed with the yarn of Example 1, and the remainder was made into the same conditions, and then weaved and processed after manufacture of the processed yarn.

연신비는 1.372, 1차 히터 230℃, 2차 히터 210℃, K값 0.42, 가연벨트 선속도/사속(VBVy) 1.720The draw ratio is 1.372, primary heater 230 ° C, secondary heater 210 ° C, K value 0.42, flammable belt linear speed / firing speed (V B V y ) 1.720

비교예 1Comparative Example 1

일반 폴리에스터 반연신사 (POY) 250d/48f(방사속도=3000m/min)를 원사로 하여 실시예 1과 동이하게 진행하였다.General polyester semi-stretched yarn (POY) 250 d / 48 f (spinning speed = 3000 m / min) as a yarn and proceeded in the same manner as in Example 1.

비교예 2Comparative Example 2

실시예 1의 원사를 사용하여 아래의 공정으로 진행하였다.The yarn of Example 1 was used to advance to the following process.

연신비 1.580, 1차 히터 200℃, 2차 히터 170℃ K값 0.8 이외 조건은 실시예 2와 동일하게 진행하였다.The conditions other than draw ratio 1.580, the primary heater 200 degreeC, and the secondary heater 170 degreeC K-value 0.8 advanced like Example 2.

비교예 3Comparative Example 3

실시예 2의 원사를 사용하여 아래의 공정으로 진행하였다.The yarn of Example 2 was used to progress to the following process.

연신비 1.325, 1차 히터 230℃, 2차 히터 180℃ K값 0.3 이외 조건은 실시예 2와 동일하게 진행하였다.The conditions other than draw ratio 1.325, the primary heater 230 degreeC, and the secondary heater 180 degreeC K value 0.3 advanced like Example 2.

실시예, 1, 2, 3과 비교예 1, 2, 3으로 제조한 직물의 시험결과는 다음과 같다.Test results of the fabric prepared in Examples, 1, 2, 3 and Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3 are as follows.

Claims (3)

일반 폴리에스터 반연신사 (POY)를 미해연사로 제조함에 있어서, 원사의 단사 섬도가 1.6d.p.f3.4 범위이며 가공사 제조시 1차 및 2차 히터를 통과시켜 연신비가 1.250D/R1.450 범위내의 미해연사를 수득케 하는 마의 질감을 폴리에스터 가공사 제조방법.In the manufacture of ordinary polyester semi-drawn yarn (POY) with unsealed yarn, the single yarn fineness of the yarn is 1.6 dpf The range is 3.4, and the draw ratio is 1.250 by passing the primary and secondary heaters during the manufacturing of the processing yarn. D / R A process for producing polyester processed yarn in which the texture of hemp to obtain unsealed twisted yarn in the range of 1.450. 제1항에 있어서, 1차 히터의 온도는 220~247℃ 범위이며, 2차 히터의 온도는 190~230℃인 것을 특징으로 하는 마의 질감을 갖는 폴리에스터 가공사 제조방법.The method of claim 1, wherein the temperature of the primary heater is in the range of 220 ~ 247 ° C, the temperature of the secondary heater is 190 ~ 230 ° C. 제1항에 있어서, 해연장력과 가연장력의 비는 (K=T2/T1) 0.15K0.55 범위이고, 꼬임수는 일반 연신가연 공정시 보다 75%θ/θ0 95% 범위인 미해연사 제조에 의한 마의 질감을 갖는 폴리에스터 가공사 제조방법.The method according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the decompression tension and the flammability is (K = T 2 / T 1 ) 0.15 K In the range of 0.55, with a twist of 75% more than in the normal draw θ / θ 0 A method for producing a polyester processed yarn having a hemp texture by the unsealed twisted yarn manufacturing in the 95% range. (단, θ는 본 발명의 꼬임수, θ0는 일반적인 공정의 꼬임수)(Where θ is the number of twists of the present invention, θ 0 is the number of twists of a general process)
KR1019940037455A 1994-12-27 1994-12-27 Preparing process for complex drawing textured yarn having impressing hemp KR960012821B1 (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101666385B1 (en) * 2015-12-24 2016-10-14 서영환 Manufacturing method of polyester melting yarn for silk textile

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101666385B1 (en) * 2015-12-24 2016-10-14 서영환 Manufacturing method of polyester melting yarn for silk textile

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