JP7400348B2 - woven and knitted fabrics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to woven or knitted fabrics.

Synthetic fibers made of polyester, polyamide, etc. have excellent mechanical properties and dimensional stability, and are therefore widely used for both clothing and non-clothing applications. However, in recent years, as people's lives have become more diverse and people are seeking a better quality of life, there is a need for clothing that has advanced sensibilities and functions that conventional synthetic fibers do not have.

Looking at the history of technological development related to synthetic fibers, it is no exaggeration to say that each elemental technology has evolved with the motivation to imitate the features of natural materials. This is because natural fibers such as linen, wool, cotton, and silk have excellent textures and functions, and humans find the complex luster and texture created by these fibers attractive and luxurious.

In the history of synthetic fibers that have imitated natural materials, polymer technology has been developed in particular for silky materials, which aim to achieve the characteristics of silk (hereinafter referred to as silk), the highest grade of natural materials. There are proposals regarding a wide range of textile technologies, from fiber spinning technology to designing the cross-sectional shape of fibers.

For example, if the cross-sectional shape of polyester fiber, which reflects light relatively highly, is made into a multi-lobed irregular cross-section, the light reflection will be amplified by the unevenness of the multi-lobed shape, resulting in a silk-like high brightness yet mild luster. It is known that it can be made into fibers and woven or knitted fabrics with a . However, it may be difficult to satisfy silk textures other than luster (dry feel, lightness, flexibility, resilience, silky ringing, etc.) with a simple irregular cross-section, and by making the cross-sectional shape even more complex, Various fiber technologies related to composite fibers that pursue silk texture and the like have been disclosed.

Patent Document 1 proposes a composite fiber that has a multilobed shape in the cross section of the fiber and has an easily eluted component arranged at the apex of the multilobed shape in a tapered manner toward the inside of the fiber. In this composite fiber, when the easily eluted components are eluted, grooves are placed at the apex of the multi-lobed shape, and the multi-lobed shape reflects light and the grooves increase the frictional force, resulting in a silk-like appearance. It is said to be able to reproduce the luxurious luster and dry feel of silk, as well as the silky ringing characteristic of woven and knitted silk.

Patent Document 2 proposes a composite fiber in which an easily eluted component and a hardly eluted component are divided into a plurality of pieces in the cross section of the fiber. In this composite fiber, when the easily eluted component is eluted, one composite fiber is divided into a plurality of fibers with irregular cross sections, and the effect of making the fibers finer and the irregular cross section combine, resulting in the improvement of silk. In addition to a luxurious gloss and dry feel, it is possible to impart a soft texture.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2-145825 Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2010-222771

As in Patent Document 1, by forming a special cross-sectional shape using eluted components and controlling light reflection and frictional force, we can achieve the luxurious luster, dry feel, and unique silk sound unique to silk. There is a possibility that it can be reproduced. However, in Patent Document 1, the inter-fiber voids in the woven or knitted fabric may be insufficient, resulting in the fabric being formed in a densely packed form of single fibers, making it light and comfortable when worn as clothing. In some cases, the soft texture was lacking. Additionally, in Patent Document 1, fibers with different heat shrinkage rates are used to create yarn length differences, and although it is possible to reproduce a silk-like fullness in the fabric, the heat treatment causes the yarn to shrink excessively, resulting in a texture that leaves a core. Therefore, when made into a woven or knitted fabric, it may have poor elongation, resulting in poor comfort and difficulty in sewing when used for clothing.

On the other hand, as in Patent Document 2, a method of imparting flexibility to a fabric by reducing the bending rigidity of each single fiber by increasing the diameter of fine fibers such as by elution and splitting, However, the voids formed within the yarn bundle are limited, and due to the thinner yarn diameter, depending on the structure of the fabric, the single fibers may be packed closest to each other. It is hard to say that it has a unique light texture.

As mentioned above, various technical proposals have been made for silky materials that utilize synthetic fibers, but while they have the luxurious luster and resilient dry feel of natural silk, they are also lightweight. It is difficult to say that there is a technology that can produce a well-balanced soft texture, have appropriate elongation, and be both comfortable to wear and easy to tailor into clothing.

Therefore, the present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and provides a woven or knitted fabric that is close to natural silk, with a luxurious luster, dry feel, fluffy feel, and lightness similar to natural silk. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric that has a soft texture and has an appropriate degree of elongation, making it excellent in comfort and ease of tailoring clothes.

The object of the present invention is achieved by the following means. That is,
[I]
A woven or knitted fabric containing a mixed fiber yarn that satisfies the following (1) to (4), and has an elongation rate of 3% or more in the filamentous direction of the mixed fiber yarn.
(1) The mixed fiber yarn is composed of two or more types of thermoplastic filaments. (2) The single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn is a single yarn.
(3) The fiber cross section of the single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn has a multilobed shape having 3 or more and 6 or less convex portions.
(4) The yarn length difference between two or more types of thermoplastic filaments constituting the mixed yarn is 3% or more and 20% or less.

[II]
The woven or knitted fabric according to [I], which has one groove near each vertex of the convex portion in the fiber cross section of the single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn.

[III]
The woven or knitted fabric according to [I] or [II], wherein the thermoplastic filaments constituting the mixed yarn are made of polyester.

[IV]
The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [I] to [III], wherein the elongation rate of the woven or knitted fabric is 3% or more and 25% or less in the filamentous direction of the mixed fiber yarn.

[V]
The mixed fiber yarn is obtained by subjecting a sea-island composite fiber having two or more islands capable of producing two or more types of thermoplastic filaments to alkali weight loss treatment to alkali weight loss treatment. A woven or knitted fabric described in Crab.

According to the present invention, it has a luxurious luster similar to natural silk and a dry touch with a rebound feeling, while also expressing a light and flexible texture in a well-balanced manner, and has appropriate elongation and is comfortable to wear. It is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric that is easy to tailor into clothing. In addition, when the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is used for clothing, it has the characteristics of natural silk, but also has the comfort that natural silk does not have, the easy care properties, sweat absorption and quick drying properties unique to synthetic fibers, and wrinkle resistance. It is possible to make clothing with excellent properties.

1 is a schematic diagram of a cross-sectional structure of a sea-island composite fiber of the present invention. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS It is a cross-sectional view for demonstrating the manufacturing method of the core-sheath composite fiber of this invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a cross-sectional structure of a sea-island composite fiber in which the island component has no convex portions according to Comparative Example 2.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail together with preferred embodiments.
The present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing a mixed fiber yarn that satisfies the following (1) to (4), and has an elongation rate of 3% or more in the filamentous direction of the mixed fiber yarn.
(1) The mixed fiber yarn is composed of two or more types of thermoplastic filaments. (2) The single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn is a single yarn.
(3) The fiber cross section of the single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn has a multilobed shape having 3 or more and 6 or less convex portions.
(4) The yarn length difference between two or more types of thermoplastic filaments constituting the mixed yarn is 3% or more and 20% or less.

That is, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes a mixed yarn composed of two or more types of thermoplastic filaments, and the difference in yarn length between the two or more types of thermoplastic filaments constituting the mixed yarn is 3% or more and 20% or less. . The term "two or more types of thermoplastic filaments" as used herein refers to filaments having different components. If the yarn length difference is less than 3%, the yarn-like bulge will be small, resulting in a paper-like woven or knitted fabric. Furthermore, if the difference in yarn length is greater than 20%, the low shrinkage component will be largely ejected, which may easily cause fibrils to form due to friction. By setting the yarn length difference to 3% or more and 20% or less, appropriate voids are created between the single fibers, resulting in appropriate bulge when made into a woven or knitted fabric. Preferably it is 10% or more and 20% or less.

Moreover, the single yarn constituting the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarn is a single yarn. The term "single yarn" here refers to one in which the constituent components of the entire filament are uniform, and the constituent component may be one polymer, or two or more polymers such as alloys may be mixed together by a method such as melt-kneading. The composition may be a composition obtained by a method such as melt kneading or the like, or a composition obtained by adding particles, additives, etc. by a method such as melt-kneading. By using a single yarn, a woven or knitted fabric with good spinnability and few defects can be obtained. Side-by-side type or core-sheath type single yarns whose cross section (cross section) perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fiber is composed of two or more different constituent components may cause deterioration in spinnability or single yarn cracking, impairing the appearance. There are cases.

The thermoplastic filaments constituting the mixed fiber yarn are particularly preferably polyester, from the viewpoint of not only achieving bending rigidity close to that of silk but also obtaining good color development when dyed.

Further, the cross section of the single yarn constituting the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarn has a multilobed shape including 3 to 6 convex portions. By having three or more convex portions on the fiber surface, a light reflection amplification effect can be obtained, so that a luxurious gloss such as high brightness and mild luster similar to silk can be expressed. However, if the number of convex parts becomes too large, the intervals between the convex and convex parts will become finer, and the effect will gradually approximate a round cross section. The practical upper limit of the number of convex portions on the thread cross section is six.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has one groove near each vertex of the convex part in the fiber cross section of the single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn, from the viewpoint of being able to express a silk-like dry touch and a silky ringing effect. It is preferable to have one.

Further, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has an elongation rate of 3% or more in the filament direction of the mixed fiber yarn, from the viewpoint of providing comfort when worn as clothing and ease of tailoring into clothing. Here, "the filamentous direction of the mixed yarn" refers to the longitudinal direction of the mixed yarn contained in a woven or knitted fabric, and in the case of a woven fabric, if the mixed yarn is included only in the warp (weft) yarn, If included in both longitudinal (latitudinal) directions, it refers to the direction in which the elongation rate is large. In the case of warp knitted fabrics, it refers to the vertical direction (the direction in which the loops are lined up vertically), and in the case of weft knitted fabrics, it refers to the horizontal direction (the direction in which the loops are lined up horizontally). If the elongation rate is less than 3%, the fabric may become stiff and uncomfortable when worn as clothing, and puckering due to sewing thread may occur when sewing for clothing, resulting in poor tailoring. It may be reduced. A more preferable range of elongation rate is 3% or more and 25% or less; if the elongation rate is greater than 25%, the firmness and waist may decrease, resulting in poor tailoring. More preferably, it is 8% or more and 13% or less.

In order to keep the elongation rate within the above range, the mixed yarn used should be a sea-island composite fiber that has two or more islands that can produce two or more types of thermoplastic filaments through a treatment that elutes the sea component, such as an alkali weight loss treatment. More preferably, it is obtained by removing sea components such as alkali reduction from.

In the case of natural silk, when raw silk is taken from the cocoon of a silkworm, which is the source of silk, the fiber cross-section consists of two triangular cross-sections of fibroin, which is a difficult-to-dissolve component, and is covered with sericin, which is an easily-dissolved component. There is. Then, by eluting and removing sericin, the raw silk is divided to produce two fibers made of fibroin. The voids between adjacent fibers are always controlled solely by the rate of sericin elution, regardless of the arrangement of single fibers in a silk multifilament. It can be understood that this creates a state in which interfiber voids on the order of μm exist uniformly. In the present invention, obtaining a mixed fiber yarn by removing sea components such as alkali loss from a sea-island composite fiber having two or more islands that can generate two or more types of thermoplastic filaments more faithfully reproduces the state. I will do it. From this point of view, the above-mentioned sea-island composite fiber is preferably one in which the periphery of the island component is covered with a sea component that is highly eluting to alkali.

In addition, by creating a sea-island composite fiber that has two or more islands that can generate two or more types of thermoplastic filaments, when processing it into a woven or knitted fabric, it can be easily processed during scouring, alkali weight reduction treatment, etc. when sea components are leached out, or Micro-crimps occur in the filament due to the difference in thermal shrinkage rate of the island components that are previously subjected to moist heat treatment such as a relaxing process, and the stretchability resulting from this micro-crimps is improved for the woven or knitted fabric in which the sea component has been eluted. can be granted. From the viewpoint of obtaining excellent stretchability, it is more preferable to perform moist heat treatment before elution of the sea component. This stretchability is a property that cannot be obtained with natural silk, and can provide the resulting woven or knitted fabric with functionality that exceeds that of silk. The elongation rate of the woven or knitted fabric can be controlled by performing intermediate setting under appropriate conditions after the moist heat treatment and before elution of the sea component. By setting the elongation rate of the woven or knitted material within a preferable range of 3% or more and 25% or less, and furthermore 8% or more and 13% or less, it is possible to more effectively impart a silk-like natural luster. First, it is preferable because the sewing processability can be further improved.

The number of island components is not particularly limited as long as it is two or more, but as the number of island components increases, the resulting inter-fiber voids become smaller. The number of divisions is preferably two, from the viewpoint of reducing the slight crimp that occurs in the filament when subjected to moist heat treatment, and the practical upper limit of the number of divisions is ten.

The island component and the sea component that make up the sea-island composite fiber that can form the mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention are thermoplastic polymers, because they have excellent processability. For example, polymer groups such as polyester, polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene, polyamide, polycarbonate, polymethyl methacrylate, and polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof are preferred. It is preferable that the thermoplastic polymers used for the sea-island composite fiber are all of the same polymer group or a copolymer thereof, from the viewpoint of being able to impart especially high interfacial affinity and obtaining a fiber with no composite cross-sectional abnormality. In addition, various additives such as inorganic materials such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, optical brighteners, antioxidants, and ultraviolet absorbers are included in the polymer. It's okay to stay.

Here, the sea-island composite fiber that can form the mixed fiber yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is subjected to high-order processing such as weaving and knitting, and then the sea component is eluted to form two or more irregular shapes derived from the island component. A mixed fiber yarn consisting of thermoplastic filaments having a cross section is obtained. For this reason, it is preferable that the island component is difficult to elute and the sea component is easy to elute with respect to the solvent used to elute the sea component, and it is recommended to select a combination of island components according to the application and use them from there. It is preferable to select a sea component from among the above-mentioned polymers in view of the solvent that can be used. At this time, the higher the elution rate ratio of the poorly eluted component (island component) and the easily eluted component (sea component) to the solvent, the better the combination, and it is best to select a polymer with an elution rate ratio of up to 3000 times. .

Examples of the sea component include polymers that can be melt-molded and exhibit easier dissolution than other components, such as polyester and its copolymers, polylactic acid, polyamide, polystyrene and its copolymers, polyethylene, and polyvinyl alcohol. It is preferable to select In addition, from the viewpoint of simplifying the elution process of the sea component, the sea component is preferably a copolymerized polyester, polylactic acid, polyvinyl alcohol, or the like that is easily eluted in an aqueous solvent or hot water. In particular, it exhibits easy dissolution in aqueous solvents such as alkaline aqueous solutions while maintaining crystallinity, and does not cause fusion between composite fibers even during false-twisting processing where abrasion is imparted under heating. From the viewpoint of good ability to pass through higher processing, we have developed a polyester copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 5 mol% to 15 mol% based on the total dicarboxylic acid, and a polyester with a weight average molecular weight of 500 in addition to the above-mentioned 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. A particularly preferred sea component is a polyester copolymerized with polyethylene glycol of 5 to 3000% by weight in a range of 5 to 15 wt%.

In the sea-island composite fibers that can be used to form mixed yarns included in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the aim is to develop swelling by utilizing the shrinkage difference between the divided island components. As for the combination, it is preferable to use the island component 1 as a high shrinkage low melting point polymer and the island component 2 as a low shrinkage high melting point polymer. Examples of such a combination of a low melting point polymer and a high melting point polymer include: Polyester-based copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate, thermoplastic polyurethane/polyethylene terephthalate, polyester-based elastomer/polyethylene terephthalate, polyester-based elastomer/polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide-based Nylon 6-nylon 66 copolymer/nylon 6 or 610, PEG copolymerized nylon 6/nylon 6 or 610, thermoplastic polyurethane/nylon 6 or 610, polyolefins such as ethylene-propylene rubber finely dispersed polypropylene/polypropylene, propylene- Various combinations such as α-olefin copolymer/polypropylene may be used, but in the sea-island composite fiber that can form the mixed yarn included in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is possible to not only achieve a bending stiffness close to that of silk, but also a dyed material. From the viewpoint of obtaining good color development, it is particularly preferable that the island components to be divided be a combination of polyesters. Examples of copolymerized components in copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate include succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. However, from the viewpoint of maximizing the shrinkage difference with polyethylene terephthalate, it is preferable to use polyethylene terephthalate in which 5 mol% to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid is copolymerized based on the total dicarboxylic acid.

In addition, it is also suitable to use plant-derived biopolymers and recycled polymers in the present invention, and the polymers used in the above-mentioned present invention can be recycled by any of chemical recycling, material recycling, and thermal recycling. recycled polymers can be used. Even when biopolymers or recycled polymers are used, polyester resins can bring out the features of the present invention due to their polymer properties, and as mentioned above, can provide bending rigidity close to that of natural silk and good color development. From this viewpoint, recycled polyester can be suitably used in the present invention.

In the sea-island composite fibers that can form the mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is formed from the viewpoint of making the texture softer after the island component is eluted. It is preferable that the single fiber fineness of the thermoplastic filament having an irregular cross section obtained by eluting the sea component of the sea-island composite fiber is 3 dtex or less. The single yarn fineness (dtex) referred to here means the value obtained by calculating the weight per 10,000 m from the average value of multiple measurements of the weight of the unit length of the fiber, divided by the number of filaments of the fiber. .

Furthermore, by setting the single yarn fineness to 2 dtex or less, it approaches the single yarn fineness of silk, approximately 1 dtex, and can achieve a feel closer to silk, making it suitable for general clothing applications such as innerwear that touches the skin, shirts, blouses, etc. This is a suitable range. However, if the single yarn fineness is less than 0.5 dtex, the fiber diameter will be too small, resulting in a decrease in bending rigidity and bending recovery, and the resilience, which is one of the silk textures, may be impaired. The lower limit of fineness is preferably 0.5 dtex.

The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by knitting and weaving using sea-island composite fibers that can form the mixed yarn obtained as described above, scouring if necessary, and then eluting the sea component. I can do it. Furthermore, as described above, slight crimp occurs in the filament due to the difference in thermal shrinkage rate of two or more island components formed by performing moist heat treatment before elution of the sea component. This moist heat treatment can be performed using a jet dyeing machine or the like. The temperature and time should be set so as to expand the potential shrinkage rate of the included polymer; the higher the treatment temperature and the longer the treatment time, the more the potential shrinkage rate of the polymer increases and fine crimp occurs. . After this moist heat treatment, it is preferable to carry out intermediate setting before eluting the sea component of the sea-island composite fiber. By performing this intermediate setting, the elongation rate of the obtained woven or knitted material can be controlled.
The intermediate setting can be performed using equipment such as a pin tenter, and the surface condition and elongation rate of the woven or knitted material can be controlled by appropriately changing the tension, temperature, and width. When the tension is increased, the fabric is stretched and the stretching rate decreases, but wrinkles are smoothed out and the surface quality tends to improve. Furthermore, when the treatment temperature is raised, the setting properties are improved, but the thermal shrinkage of the fabric also increases, so the elongation rate tends to decrease. Therefore, these may be appropriately controlled to obtain a desired elongation rate.

Elution of the sea component can be performed by processing in a liquid that elutes the sea component, such as sodium hydroxide, using a jet dyeing machine or the like.

Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention may be subjected to dyeing, functional processing, and finishing setting. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention maintains the slight crimp caused by the moist heat treatment even after these post-processing steps, and can impart stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric.

In the present invention, when weaving and knitting sea-island composite fibers capable of forming a mixed yarn satisfying the above (1) to (4), it is preferable that all the weaving/knitting yarns be the sea-island composite fibers described above, but 20% by weight or more Even so, it is effective enough. For example, in the case of textiles, at least some or all of the warp and weft can be used as long as the range specified in the present invention is met. Although only the warp or the weft may be used, it is preferable that at least a portion or all of the warp and the weft be made of the sea-island composite fiber.

When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a textile product, it is possible not only to obtain a textile product that reproduces the various textures unique to silk, but also to impart elongation properties that cannot be obtained with silk. To obtain a textile product that has a luxurious silk-like luster and a dry touch with a rebound feeling, has a light and flexible texture in a well-balanced manner, has appropriate elongation, and is comfortable to wear. In addition, it can be easily tailored into textile products such as clothing. For this reason, silk can be used not only for Western and Japanese clothing, where silk has traditionally been mainly used, but also for general clothing such as jackets, skirts, pants, and underwear, as well as for sports clothing and clothing, coupled with the ease of handling that is unique to synthetic fibers. It can be suitably used in a wide variety of textile products, including materials, interior products such as carpets, sofas, and curtains, vehicle interior products such as car seats, cosmetics, cosmetic masks, wiping cloths, health products, and other daily uses.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be specifically described below with reference to Examples.

The following evaluations were performed for the Examples and Comparative Examples.

A. Yarn length difference 20 mixed fiber yarns are collected at regular intervals (5 cm from the woven or knitted fabric base) from the warp or weft direction of the woven or knitted fabric that has been dyed and finished. The sampled mixed fiber yarn is disassembled, the yarn is placed on a glass plate, a small amount of glycerin is added, and the crimp formed from the woven or knitted structure is stretched to measure the yarn length. The longest fiber group and the shortest fiber group are divided into groups, and those with a difference in single fiber length within 2% are considered to be the same fiber group, and the average length of the shortest fiber group L1 is the average of the longest fiber group. The length L2 is calculated using the following formula.
Yarn length difference (%) = [(L2-L1)/L1] x 100

B. Elongation rate Measured using a tensile shear tester (FB-1) manufactured by Kato Tech.
Measurement conditions: A sample of 20 cm x 20 cm is taken from a woven or knitted fabric, and the elongation rate under a load of 500 g/cm under the conditions of 20 cm width and 5 cm length is calculated.

C. Squeaking feeling A 50 g load was applied to a 1 cm x 1 cm terminal wrapped with piano wire in a 10 cm x 10 cm area of a 20 cm x 20 cm sample taken from a woven or knitted fabric using an automated surface testing machine (KES-FB4) manufactured by Kato Tech. The average coefficient of friction MIU was determined by sliding at a speed of 1.0 mm/sec. This operation was performed three times for each location, and a simple numerical average of the results was obtained for a total of 10 locations, and the value rounded to the second decimal place was taken as the friction coefficient. Based on the obtained friction coefficients, the dry feel was evaluated in three levels based on the following criteria.
A: Excellent dry feeling (0.6≦friction coefficient)
B: Good dry feeling (0.3≦friction coefficient<0.6)
C: Poor dry feel (friction coefficient <0.3)

D. Glossiness Glossiness was determined by shining light onto a 5cm x 5cm sample taken from a woven or knitted fabric at an incident angle of 60° using an automatic variable angle photometer (GONIO PHOTOMETER GP-200 model) manufactured by Murakami Color Research Institute. , the light intensity at the receiving angle of 0° to 90° is determined by two-dimensional reflected light distribution measurement every 0.1°, and the maximum light intensity (specular reflection) near the receiving angle of 60° is the minimum light intensity near the receiving angle of 0°. The value was calculated by dividing by the light intensity (diffuse reflection). This operation was performed three times for each location, and a simple numerical average of the results was obtained for a total of 10 locations, and the value rounded to the second decimal place was taken as the contrast gloss level. Based on the obtained comparative glossiness, the glossiness was evaluated in three levels based on the following criteria.
A: Excellent gloss (contrast gloss <1.6)
B: Good gloss (1.6≦contrast glossiness<2.0)
C: Poor gloss (2.0≦comparative gloss)

E. Flexibility Flexibility is measured by holding a 20cm x 20cm sample taken from a woven or knitted fabric with an effective sample length of 20cm x 1cm and bending it in the weft direction using a pure bending tester (KES-FB2) made by Kato Tech. , the value was calculated by dividing the bending moment per unit width (gf·cm/cm) by the curvature (cm ⁻¹ ) when the curvature K was ±0.5 and ±1.5 cm ⁻¹ . Perform this operation three times for each location, calculate the simple numerical average of the results for a total of 10 locations, round off to the fourth decimal place, and divide by 100 to calculate the bending hardness B x 10 ^-2 ( gf·cm ² /cm). Based on the obtained bending hardness B×10 ⁻² , the flexibility was evaluated in three grades based on the following criteria.

A: Excellent flexibility (bending hardness B×10 ⁻² ≦1.0)
B: Good flexibility (1.0<bending hardness B×10 ⁻² ≦2.0)
C: Poor flexibility (2.0<bending hardness B×10 ⁻² )

F. Sewability When two woven or knitted fabrics were layered and sewn using a sewing machine, the state of puckering (shrinkage caused by sewing) was evaluated in three stages based on the following criteria.
A: Excellent sewability (no puckering observed)
B: Good sewability (some puckering)
C: Poor sewability (puckering is noticeable)

G. Fullness The following evaluations were made regarding the fullness of the woven and knitted fabrics prepared in the examples, and the evaluation with the highest number of evaluations by 10 randomly selected people was used as the result. If there is more than one judgment result with the highest frequency, the evaluation was given as an intermediate value.
A: I feel a lot of swelling. B: I feel some swelling. C: I hardly feel any swelling.

H. Abrasion resistance A woven or knitted fabric was dyed black, and the dyed fabric was cut into a circle with a diameter of 10 cm, moistened with distilled water, and mounted on a disk. Furthermore, the fabric cut into 30 cm squares was fixed on a horizontal board while dry. The disk to which the fabric moistened with distilled water was attached was placed in horizontal contact with the fabric fixed on a horizontal plate, and the center of the disk drew a circle with a diameter of 10 cm at a speed of 50 rpm for 10 minutes. The disk was moved in a circular motion to cause friction between the two fabrics. After the friction was finished, the fabric was left for 4 hours, and then the degree of discoloration of the fabric attached to the disc was evaluated using a gray scale for discoloration, using grades 1 to 5 in 0.5 grade increments. Based on the results of the frosting series obtained, the abrasion resistance was evaluated in three stages based on the following criteria.
A: Excellent abrasion resistance (frosting series: grade 4 or higher)
B: Good abrasion resistance (frosting series: grade 3 or grade 3-4)
C: Poor abrasion resistance (frosting series: less than grade 3)

[Example 1]
As Polymer A, polyethylene terephthalate (SSIA-PEG copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 100 Pa・s, melting point Polyethylene terephthalate (IPA copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa・s, melting point: 232°C), Polyethylene terephthalate (PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa・s, melting point: 232°C) copolymerized with isophthalic acid at 7 mol% based on the total dicarboxylic acid components as Polymer B, Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) as Polymer B , melt viscosity: 130 Pa·s, melting point: 254°C) were prepared.

After melting these polymers separately at 290°C, the weight ratio of Polymer A/Polymer B/Polymer C was 30/35/35, and a spinning pack incorporating the composite spinneret shown in Fig. 2 was prepared. The sea-island composite fiber has an elliptical shape as shown in FIG. , the island components b1 and b2 are separated by the sea component a, and the polymer inflows from the discharge hole so that the separated island components b1 and b2 each have a composite structure with a groove at the tip of the convex part of the trilobal cross section. vomited out. At this time, they were arranged so that the sea component a was polymer A, the island component b1 was polymer B, and the island component b2 was polymer C. FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional conceptual diagram of the composite die, in which the polymers 1 to 3 measured by the metering plate 1 are each controlled by the distribution plate 2 to control the composite cross section and its cross-sectional shape in the cross section of the single fiber, and by the discharge plate 3. , the composite polymer stream formed by the distribution plate 2 is compressed and discharged.

After cooling and solidifying the discharged composite polymer stream, the spun yarn is coated with an oil agent, wound at a spinning speed of 1500 m/min, and stretched between rollers heated to 90°C and 130°C, resulting in a 56dtex-18 A filament sea-island composite fiber was produced.

The obtained sea-island composite fiber was twisted in the S direction at 1300 T/M, and the fibers were used as warp and weft using a water jet loom to give a warp density of 185 threads/2.54 cm and a weft thread density of 110 threads/2.54 cm. Obtained satin fabric. The obtained fabric is continuously refined, subjected to a relaxing process at 130°C for 30 minutes using a jet dyeing machine, and then subjected to an intermediate setting of 180°C for 1 minute with a tentering rate of 1%, and then subjected to a relaxing process using a jet dyeing machine for 1 minute. The sea component was removed by heating to 100° C. using a % by weight aqueous sodium hydroxide solution (weight loss rate: 33%). Thereafter, it was subjected to ordinary dyeing finishing to obtain a satin fabric with a warp density of 235 threads/2.54 cm and a weft thread density of 135 threads/2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

[Example 2]
After obtaining a satin fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, a warp density of 235 threads/2.54 cm was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the relaxing process was not performed at 130°C for 30 minutes using a jet dyeing machine. A satin fabric with a weft density of 135 threads/2.54 cm was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

[Example 3]
A sea-island composite fiber was produced in the same manner as in Example 1. A warp density of 235 threads/2.54 cm was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that polyethylene terephthalate fiber, which is a 56 dtex-48 filament semidull polyester yarn twisted at 1300 T/M in the S direction, was used as the weft. A satin fabric with a weft density of 125 threads/2.54 cm was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

[Example 4]
A sea-island composite fiber was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, and a knitted fabric with a smooth structure was obtained using a 40G circular knitting machine. The obtained knitted fabric was continuously refined and heated to 100° C. using a 1% by weight aqueous sodium hydroxide solution in a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight loss rate: 33%). Thereafter, a relaxing process was performed at 130°C for 30 minutes using a jet dyeing machine, and after intermediate setting, a normal dyeing finishing process was performed to obtain a smooth knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

[Example 5]
A warp density of 235 threads/2.54 cm and a weft thread density of 135 threads/2.54 cm were prepared from an elliptical sea-island composite fiber as shown in Fig. 1 in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the grooves at the apex of the convex portions of the island components were eliminated. A 2.54 cm satin fabric was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

[Example 6]
A warp density of 235 threads/2.54 cm and a weft thread density of 135 threads/2.54 cm were produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that chemically recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET, melt viscosity: 130 Pa·s, melting point: 254°C) was used as polymer C. A 2.54 cm satin fabric was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

[Comparative example 1]
A warp density of 205/2.54 cm, a weft density of 120/2. A 54 cm satin fabric was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

[Comparative example 2]
As shown in FIG. 3, the sea-island composite fiber had an elliptical cross-sectional shape, and the warp density was 235 yarns/2. A satin fabric having a length of 54 cm and a weft density of 135 threads/2.54 cm was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

[Comparative example 3]
Polyethylene terephthalate (IPA copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa s, melting point: 232°C) is used as polymer A, and polyethylene terephthalate (PET, melt viscosity: 130 Pa s, melting point: 254) is used as polymer B. °C) was prepared.

Each of these polymers A and B was used individually, and after melting at 290°C, using the same spinning machine as in Example 1, a groove was formed at the tip of the convex part with a trilobal cross section as shown in b1 of FIG. Monocomponent fibers (single yarn) of 19.6 dtex-18 filaments were produced.

The above monocomponent fibers were interlaced and mixed to obtain composite fibers of 39.2 dtex-36 filaments.

The obtained composite fibers were twisted and woven in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a satin fabric having a warp density of 185 threads/2.54 cm and a weft thread density of 110 threads/2.54 cm. Further, the obtained woven fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a satin woven fabric having a warp density of 235 threads/2.54 cm and a weft thread density of 135 threads/2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained textiles.

As shown in Table 1, it can be seen that the woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 3, 5, and 6 or the knitted fabric of Example 4 are excellent in squeaky feeling, glossy feeling, sewability, fullness, and abrasion resistance. . Among them, the fabrics of Examples 1 and 6 use sea-island composite fibers for the warp and weft, and the elongation rate is controlled within a preferable range, so they have a squeaky feel, glossy feel, sewability, fullness, It was an excellent fabric with excellent abrasion resistance and extremely high practicality. On the other hand, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 had a low yarn length difference of 2%, so it was paper-like with poor fluffiness. In addition, the fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 and 3 have an elongation rate of 2% and 1%, which is not at a level that provides comfortable wear when used for clothing, and furthermore, the low elongation rate makes it difficult to sew. In other words, it was inferior in terms of ease of tailoring it into clothing. In addition, the fabric of Comparative Example 2 was inferior in silk-like luxury luster, silk-like dry feel, and silky ringing effect.

The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention has a luxurious luster, dry feel, fullness, and light and flexible texture similar to natural silk, while its moderate elongation provides excellent comfort and ease of tailoring. As a result, natural silk can be used not only for Western and Japanese clothing, for which natural silk has traditionally been used, but also for general clothing such as jackets, skirts, pants, and underwear, as well as sports clothing, clothing materials, and interior products such as carpets, sofas, and curtains. It can be suitably used in a wide variety of textile products such as vehicle interior parts such as car seats, cosmetics, cosmetic masks, wiping cloths, health products, and other daily uses.

a Sea component b1 Island component b2 Island component 1 Measuring plate 2 Distribution plate 3 Discharge plate

Claims (7)

A woven or knitted fabric containing a mixed fiber yarn that satisfies the following (1) to (4), and has an elongation rate of 3% or more in the filamentous direction of the mixed fiber yarn.
(1) The mixed fiber yarn is composed of two types of thermoplastic filaments. (2) The single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn is a single yarn.
(3) The fiber cross section of the single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn has a multilobed shape having 3 or more and 6 or less convex portions.
(4) The yarn length difference between the two types of thermoplastic filaments constituting the mixed yarn is 3% or more and 20% or less. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fiber cross section of the single yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn has one groove near each vertex of the convex portion. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thermoplastic filaments constituting the mixed yarn are made of polyester. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the elongation rate of the woven or knitted fabric is 3% or more and 25% or less in the filamentous direction of the mixed fiber yarn. According to any one of claims 1 to 4, the mixed fiber yarn is obtained by subjecting a sea-island composite fiber having two islands capable of producing two types of thermoplastic filaments to alkali weight loss treatment. Woven and knitted fabrics as described. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the single yarns constituting the mixed yarn have slight crimp. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the single yarns constituting the mixed yarn have a single yarn fineness of 0.5 dtex or more and 2 dtex or less.