JP7062881B2 - Woven knit with excellent refreshing feeling - Google Patents
Woven knit with excellent refreshing feeling Download PDFInfo
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- JP7062881B2 JP7062881B2 JP2017086567A JP2017086567A JP7062881B2 JP 7062881 B2 JP7062881 B2 JP 7062881B2 JP 2017086567 A JP2017086567 A JP 2017086567A JP 2017086567 A JP2017086567 A JP 2017086567A JP 7062881 B2 JP7062881 B2 JP 7062881B2
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本発明は、繊細なシャリ感と膨らみ感を持つ清涼感に優れた織編物に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having a delicate crispness and a swelling feeling and having an excellent refreshing feeling.
従来より、セルロース系繊維とポリエステル繊維からなる複合糸を含む、両者の優れた特徴を兼ね備えた織編物が種々提案されている。 Conventionally, various woven and knitted fabrics having excellent characteristics of both, including a composite yarn composed of a cellulosic fiber and a polyester fiber, have been proposed.
例えば、特許文献１には、ポリエステル系マルチフィラメントとアセテートフィラメントの複合糸からなる布帛が記載されている。しかしこの方法では、ドライ感と膨らみ感は得られるが、より清涼感に適したシャリ感までは得られない。 For example, Patent Document 1 describes a fabric made of a composite yarn of a polyester-based multifilament and an acetate filament. However, with this method, although a dry feeling and a swelling feeling can be obtained, a crispy feeling more suitable for a refreshing feeling cannot be obtained.
本発明はこの問題を解決するものであり、セルロース系マルチフィラメントのもつさわやかな質感と、撚り戻り解撚トルクの大きいポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸による、適度なふくらみ感とシャリ感に優れた清涼感を有する複合繊維布帛を提供することを目的としている。 The present invention solves this problem, and has a refreshing texture of a cellulosic multifilament and a refreshing feeling of moderate swelling and crispness due to a polyester multifilament yarn having a large untwisting and untwisting torque. It is an object of the present invention to provide a composite fiber fabric.
１．ポリエステルマルチフィラメントと、セルロース系マルチフィラメントとが合撚された複合糸を含み、経方向及び緯方向の摩擦係数が０．１５～０．２５である織編物。
２．前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率が５０～８０質量％である１に記載の織編物。
３．前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの総繊度が３０～８４ｄｔｅｘである１または２に記載の織編物。
４．前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの単繊維繊度が３ｄｔｅｘ以下である１～３のいずれかに記載の織編物。
５．前記セルロース系マルチフィラメントの単繊維繊度が０．５～５ｄｔｅｘである１～のいずれかに記載の織編物。
６．ドレープ係数が、０．２０～０．３５である１～５のいずれかに記載の織編物。
７．経糸の織密度が１５０～２５０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸の織密度が９０～１５０本／２５．４ｍｍの織物である１～６のいずれかに記載の織編物。
８．撚り方向がＳ方向の複合糸と撚り方向がＺ方向の複合糸を交互に含む１～７のいずれかに記載の織編物。
９．前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントが仮撚加工糸である１～８のいずれかに記載の織編物。
１０．前記仮撚り加工糸の仮撚り方向と複合糸の撚り方向が逆である複合糸を含む９に記載の織編物。
１１．前記織物の組織が二重織または朱子織である７～１０のいずれかに記載の織編物。
１２．ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸とセルロース系マルチフィラメントを撚り係数が２００００～２９０００で合撚した複合糸を使用した織編物の製造方法。
１３．前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚方向と、前記複合糸の撚糸方向が逆である１２に記載の織編物の製造方法。
１４．前記複合糸に対するセルロース系マルチフィラメントの含有率が５０～８０質量％である１２または１３に記載の織編物の製造方法。
１５．前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の仮撚係数が１５０００～２５０００である１２～１４のいずれかに記載の織編物の製造方法。
１６．前記合撚した複合糸の撚り方向がＳ方向とＺ方向の２種類があり、Ｓ方向とＺ方向の複合糸を交互に配する１３～１５のいずれかに記載の織編物の製造方法。
１７．前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の捲縮率が５～２０％である１２～１６のいずれかに記載の織編物の製造方法。
１８．織編物の組織が二重織または朱子織である請求項１２～１７のいずれか一項に記載の織編物の製造方法。
1. 1. A woven or knitted fabric containing a composite yarn in which a polyester multifilament and a cellulosic multifilament are twisted together and having a friction coefficient in the warp and weft directions of 0.15 to 0.25.
2. 2. The woven or knitted fabric according to 1, wherein the mixing ratio of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is 50 to 80% by mass.
3. 3. The woven or knitted fabric according to 1 or 2, wherein the polyester multifilament has a total fineness of 30 to 84 dtex.
4. The woven or knitted product according to any one of 1 to 3, wherein the polyester multifilament has a single fiber fineness of 3 dtex or less.
5. The woven or knitted product according to any one of 1 to 1, wherein the cellulosic multifilament has a single fiber fineness of 0.5 to 5 dtex.
6. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 1 to 5, which has a drape coefficient of 0.20 to 0.35.
7. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 1 to 6, which is a woven fabric having a weft density of 150 to 250 threads / 25.4 mm and a weft density of 90 to 150 threads / 25.4 mm.
8. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 1 to 7, further comprising a composite yarn having a twisting direction of S and a composite yarn having a twisting direction of Z alternately.
9. The woven or knitted product according to any one of 1 to 8, wherein the polyester multifilament is a false twisted yarn.
10. 9. The woven or knitted fabric according to 9, further comprising a composite yarn in which the false twisting direction of the false twisted yarn and the twisting direction of the composite yarn are opposite to each other.
11. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 7 to 10, wherein the structure of the woven fabric is a double weave or a satin weave.
12. A method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric using a composite yarn obtained by twisting a false twisted polyester multifilament yarn and a cellulosic multifilament with a twisting coefficient of 20,000 to 29000.
13. 12. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to 12, wherein the false twisting direction of the polyester multifilament and the twisting direction of the composite yarn are opposite to each other.
14. 12. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to 12 or 13, wherein the content of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is 50 to 80% by mass.
15. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 12 to 14, wherein the false twisting coefficient of the false twisted yarn of the polyester multifilament is 15000 to 25000.
16. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 13 to 15, wherein the combined twisted composite yarn has two twisting directions of S direction and Z direction, and the composite yarns in the S direction and the Z direction are alternately arranged.
17. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of 12 to 16, wherein the false twisted yarn of the polyester multifilament has a crimp ratio of 5 to 20%.
18. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 12 to 17, wherein the structure of the woven or knitted fabric is a double weave or a satin weave.
本発明の織編物は、適度なふくらみ感とシャリ感に優れた清涼感を有する複合繊維布帛が得られる効果を奏する。 The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the effect of obtaining a composite fiber fabric having an appropriate swelling feeling and a refreshing feeling excellent in crispness.
以下、本発明の好適な実施の形態について具体的に説明する。
本発明の織編物は、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントと、セルロース系マルチフィラメントとが合撚された複合糸を含み、経方向及び緯方向の摩擦係数が０．１５～０．２５である。
ポリエスエルマルチフィラメントと、セルロース系マルチフィラメントとが合撚された複合糸を使用することで、膨らみ感とセルロース系特有のさらっとした質感が得られ、経方向及び緯方向の摩擦係数が０．１５以上であれば、適度なシャリ感が得られ、０．２５以下であることで、優れた清涼感が得られる。
この観点から、経方向及び緯方向の摩擦係数は０．１８～０．２３がより好ましく、０．１９～０．２１がさらに好ましい。
Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be specifically described.
The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention contains a composite yarn in which a polyester multifilament and a cellulosic multifilament are twisted together, and has a friction coefficient of 0.15 to 0.25 in the warp and weft directions.
By using a composite yarn in which a polysell multifilament and a cellulose-based multifilament are twisted together, a swelling feeling and a silky texture peculiar to the cellulose-based material can be obtained, and the coefficient of friction in the warp and weft directions is 0. If it is 15 or more, an appropriate crispness can be obtained, and if it is 0.25 or less, an excellent refreshing feeling can be obtained.
From this point of view, the coefficient of friction in the warp and weft directions is more preferably 0.18 to 0.23, and even more preferably 0.19 to 0.21.
本発明におけるセルロース系フィラメント糸とは、セルロースを原料として、再生或いは半合成された繊維のフィラメント糸であればよく、再生繊維としては例えばビスコースレーヨン、キュプラ等が、半合成繊維としては例えばセルロースジアセテート繊維、セルローストリアセテート繊維等が挙げられるが、その製法や種類を特に限定するものではない。また、単糸の断面形状、表面形状、艶、繊度等を特に限定するものではなく、得ようとする織物の表現を考慮して任意に選定すればよい。 The cellulosic filament yarn in the present invention may be a filament yarn of a fiber regenerated or semi-synthesized from cellulose as a raw material, and the regenerated fiber is, for example, viscose rayon, cupra, etc., and the semi-synthetic fiber is, for example, cellulose. Examples thereof include diacetate fiber and cellulose triacetate fiber, but the production method and type thereof are not particularly limited. Further, the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, luster, fineness, etc. of the single yarn are not particularly limited, and may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the expression of the woven fabric to be obtained.
本発明の織編物は、前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率が５０～８０質量％であることが好ましい。
前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率が５０質量％以上であれば、セルロース系マルチフィラメントによるさわやかな質感が得られ易く、８０質量％以下であれば、複合糸の解撚トルクによる膨らみ感が得られる。
これらの効果から、前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率は、６０～７５質量％がより好ましい。
In the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, the mixing ratio of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is preferably 50 to 80% by mass.
When the mixing ratio of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is 50% by mass or more, a refreshing texture due to the cellulose-based multifilament can be easily obtained, and when it is 80% by mass or less, a swelling feeling due to the untwisting torque of the composite yarn is felt. can get.
From these effects, the mixing ratio of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is more preferably 60 to 75% by mass.
なお、前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率（質量％）は、（セルロース系マルチフィラメントの総繊度／複合糸の総繊度）×１００で算出する。 The mixing ratio (% by mass) of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is calculated by (total fineness of the cellulose-based multifilament / total fineness of the composite yarn) × 100.
本発明の織編物は、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの総繊度が３０～８４ｄｔｅｘであることが好ましい。
前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの総繊度が３０ｄｔｅｘ以上であれば、織編物の膨らみ感が得られ易く、８４ｄｔｅｘ以下であれば、トータル繊度が太くなり過ぎず衣料用に適した繊度となり好適である。
これらの観点から、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの総繊度は、６０ｄｔｅｘ以下がより好ましく、５０ｄｔｅｘ以下がさらに好ましい。
In the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, the total fineness of the polyester multifilament is preferably 30 to 84 dtex.
When the total fineness of the polyester multifilament is 30 dtex or more, it is easy to obtain a swelling feeling of the woven or knitted fabric, and when it is 84 dtex or less, the total fineness does not become too thick and the fineness is suitable for clothing.
From these viewpoints, the total fineness of the polyester multifilament is more preferably 60 dtex or less, and further preferably 50 dtex or less.
本発明の織編物は、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの単繊維繊度が３ｄｔｅｘ以下であることが好ましい。
前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの単繊維繊度が３ｄｔｅｘ以下であれば、膨らみ感のある風合いが得られ易い。
この観点から、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの単繊維繊度は、２．５ｄｔｅｘ以下がより好ましく、２ｄｔｅｘ以下がさらに好ましい。
In the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, the single fiber fineness of the polyester multifilament is preferably 3 dtex or less.
When the single fiber fineness of the polyester multifilament is 3 dtex or less, it is easy to obtain a swelling texture.
From this viewpoint, the single fiber fineness of the polyester multifilament is more preferably 2.5 dtex or less, further preferably 2 dtex or less.
本発明の織編物は、前記セルロース系マルチフィラメントの単繊維繊度が０．５～５ｄｔｅｘであることが好ましい。
前記セルロース系マルチフィラメントの単繊維繊度が０．５ｄｔｅｘ以上であれば、清涼感が得られ易く、５ｄｔｅｘ以下であれば、膨らみ感があるので好ましい。
In the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, the cellulosic multifilament preferably has a single fiber fineness of 0.5 to 5 dtex.
When the cellulosic multifilament has a single fiber fineness of 0.5 dtex or more, a refreshing feeling can be easily obtained, and when it is 5 dtex or less, a swelling feeling is obtained, which is preferable.
本発明の織編物は、ドレープ係数が、０．２０～０．３５であることが好ましい。
前記ドレープ係数が０．２０以上であれば、立体的なシルエットであるため好ましく、０．３５以下であれば適度な落ち感のあるシルエットになるため好ましい。
これらの観点から、前記レープ係数は、０．２３～０．３４がより好ましく、０．２５～０．３３がさらに好ましい。
The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a drape coefficient of 0.20 to 0.35.
When the drape coefficient is 0.20 or more, it is preferable because it is a three-dimensional silhouette, and when it is 0.35 or less, it is preferable because it is a silhouette with an appropriate feeling of falling.
From these viewpoints, the rape coefficient is more preferably 0.23 to 0.34, and even more preferably 0.25 to 0.33.
本発明の織編物は、経糸の織密度が１５０～２５０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸の織密度が９０～１５０本／２５．４ｍｍの織物であることが好ましい。
経糸の織密度が１５０本／２５．４ｍｍ以上、緯糸の織密度が９０本／２５．４ｍｍ以上の織物とすることで、適度なハリ感が得られ、経糸の織密度が２５０本／２５．４ｍｍ以下、緯糸の織密度が１５０本／２５．４ｍｍ以下であることで、膨らみが得られ易い。
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably a woven fabric having a weaving density of 150 to 250 threads / 25.4 mm and a weft density of 90 to 150 threads / 25.4 mm.
By using a woven fabric with a warp weft density of 150 threads / 25.4 mm or more and a warp weft weft density of 90 threads / 25.4 mm or more, an appropriate firmness can be obtained, and the weft density of the warp threads is 250 threads / 25. When the weft density is 4 mm or less and the weft density is 150 threads / 25.4 mm or less, swelling can be easily obtained.
本発明の織編物は、撚り方向がＳ方向の複合糸と撚り方向がＺ方向の複合糸を交互に含むことが好ましい。
撚り方向がＳ方向の複合糸と撚り方向がＺ方向の複合糸を交互に含むことで、膨らみ感や斜行の改善といった効果が得られ易い。
撚り方向がＳ方向であることを「Ｓ撚り」、撚り方向がＺ方向であることを「Ｚ撚り」と言う場合がある。
It is preferable that the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention alternately contains a composite yarn having a twisting direction of S and a composite yarn having a twisting direction of Z.
By alternately including the composite yarn having the twisting direction of S and the composite yarn having the twisting direction of Z, it is easy to obtain effects such as improvement of swelling feeling and skewing.
The twisting direction in the S direction may be referred to as "S twisting", and the twisting direction in the Z direction may be referred to as "Z twisting".
本発明の織編物は、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントが仮撚加工糸であることが好ましい。
前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントが仮撚加工糸であることで膨らみ感が得られ易い。
In the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the polyester multifilament is a false twisted yarn.
Since the polyester multifilament is a false twisted yarn, a swelling feeling can be easily obtained.
本発明の織編物は、前記仮撚加工糸の仮撚り方向と複合糸の撚り方向が同じで複合糸を含むことが好ましい。
前記仮撚加工糸の仮撚り方向と複合糸の撚り方向が同じである複合糸を含むことで、適度なシャリ感を得られ易くなる。
It is preferable that the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention contains a composite yarn in which the false twisting direction of the false twisted yarn and the twisting direction of the composite yarn are the same.
By including the composite yarn in which the false twisting direction of the false twisted yarn and the twisting direction of the composite yarn are the same, it becomes easy to obtain an appropriate crispness.
本発明の織編物は、前記織物の組織が二重織または朱子織であることが好ましい。
前記織物の組織が二重織または朱子織であることで、清涼感が得られ易くなる。二重織は経二重織、緯二重織、平二重織がより好ましい。
In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the structure of the woven fabric is a double weave or a satin weave.
When the structure of the woven fabric is a double weave or a satin weave, a refreshing feeling can be easily obtained. As the double weave, warp double weave, weft double weave, and plain double weave are more preferable.
本発明の織編物の製造方法は、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸とセルロース系マルチフィラメントとを、撚り係数が２００００～２９０００で合撚した複合糸を使用した織編物の製造方法である。
前記撚り係数を２００００以上とすることで、従来にないシャリ感が得られ、２９０００以下にすることで、膨らみ感を得易くなる。
これらの観点から、前記撚り係数は、２１０００～２８０００がより好ましく、２２０００～２６０００がさらに好ましい。
合撚する前記撚り係数は、撚り数Ｔ（ｔ／ｍ）と総繊度Ｄ（ｄｔｅｘ）から、撚り係数＝Ｔ√Ｄで算出する。
The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using a composite yarn obtained by twisting a false twisted yarn of a polyester multifilament and a cellulosic multifilament with a twist coefficient of 20000 to 29000.
By setting the twist coefficient to 20,000 or more, a crisp feeling that has never existed in the past can be obtained, and by setting it to 29000 or less, a swelling feeling can be easily obtained.
From these viewpoints, the twist coefficient is more preferably 21,000 to 28,000, further preferably 22,000 to 26,000.
The twist coefficient to be combined is calculated from the twist number T (t / m) and the total fineness D (dtex) by the twist coefficient = T√D.
本発明の織編物の製造方法は、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚方向と、前記複合糸の撚糸方向が逆である複合糸を含むことが好ましい。
記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚方向と、前記複合糸の撚糸方向が逆である複合糸を含むことで、膨らみ感を得ることができやすい。
The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably includes a composite yarn in which the false twisting direction of the polyester multifilament and the twisting direction of the composite yarn are opposite to each other.
The swelling feeling can be easily obtained by including the composite yarn in which the false twisting direction of the polyester multifilament and the twisting direction of the composite yarn are opposite to each other.
本発明の織編物の製造方法は、前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの含有率が５０～８０質量％であることが好ましい。
前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率が５０質量％以上であれば、セルロース系マルチフィラメントによるさわやかな質感が得られ易く、８０質量％以下であれば、複合糸の解撚トルクが十分得られる。
これらの効果から、前記複合糸におけるセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率は、６０～７５質量％がより好ましい。
In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the content of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is preferably 50 to 80% by mass.
When the mixing ratio of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is 50% by mass or more, a refreshing texture due to the cellulose-based multifilament can be easily obtained, and when it is 80% by mass or less, the untwisting torque of the composite yarn can be sufficiently obtained. ..
From these effects, the mixing ratio of the cellulosic multifilament in the composite yarn is more preferably 60 to 75% by mass.
本発明の織編物の製造方法は、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の仮撚係数が１５０００～２５０００であることが好ましい。
前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の仮撚係数が１５０００以上であれば、膨らみ感が得られ易く、２５０００以下であれば、清涼感あるシャリ感が得られる。
これらの観点から、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の仮撚係数は１７０００～２３０００がより好ましく、１８０００～２２０００がさらに好ましい。
なお、仮撚り係数は、撚り数Ｔ（ｔ／ｍ）と総繊度Ｄ（ｄｔｅｘ）から、撚り係数＝Ｔ√Ｄで算出する。
In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the false twist coefficient of the false twist processed yarn of the polyester multifilament is 15,000 to 25,000.
When the false twist coefficient of the false twisted yarn of the polyester multifilament is 15,000 or more, a swelling feeling is easily obtained, and when it is 25,000 or less, a refreshing crisp feeling can be obtained.
From these viewpoints, the false twist coefficient of the false twist processed yarn of the polyester multifilament is more preferably 17,000 to 23000, and further preferably 18,000 to 22,000.
The false twist coefficient is calculated from the twist number T (t / m) and the total fineness D (dtex) by the twist coefficient = T√D.
本発明の織編物の製造方法は、前記合撚した複合糸の撚り方向がＳ方向とＺ方向の２種類があり、Ｓ方向とＺ方向の複合糸を交互に配することが好ましい。
Ｓ方向とＺ方向の複合糸を交互に配することで、織編物に適度な膨らみ感が得られるため好ましい。
In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, there are two types of twisting directions of the combined and twisted composite yarns, that is, the S direction and the Z direction, and it is preferable that the composite yarns in the S direction and the Z direction are alternately arranged.
By alternately arranging the composite yarns in the S direction and the Z direction, it is preferable to obtain an appropriate swelling feeling in the woven or knitted fabric.
本発明の織編物の製造方法は、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の捲縮率が５～２０％であることが好ましい。
前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の捲縮率が５％以上であれば、膨らみ感が得られ易すく、２０％以下であれば、セルロース系マルチフィラメント糸の清涼感が得られ易い。
これらの観点から、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の捲縮率は、７～１８％がより好ましい。
In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the crimp ratio of the false twisted yarn of the polyester multifilament is 5 to 20%.
When the crimp ratio of the false twisted yarn of the polyester multifilament is 5% or more, a swelling feeling is easily obtained, and when it is 20% or less, a refreshing feeling of the cellulosic multifilament yarn is easily obtained.
From these viewpoints, the crimp ratio of the false twisted yarn of the polyester multifilament is more preferably 7 to 18%.
本発明の織編物の製造方法は、織編物の組織が二重織または朱子織であることが好ましい。
織編物の組織が二重織または朱子織であることで、清涼感が得られ易くなる。二重織は経二重織、緯二重織、平二重織がより好ましい。
In the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the structure of the woven or knitted fabric is a double weave or a satin weave.
When the structure of the woven or knitted fabric is a double weave or a satin weave, a refreshing feeling can be easily obtained. As the double weave, warp double weave, weft double weave, and plain double weave are more preferable.
さらに本発明では、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメントの旋回数（沸水処理後）が１２０以上、１９０以下であることが好ましい。旋回数（沸水処理後）が１２０以上であれば、複合糸の撚り戻り解撚トルクによりふくらみ感が得られ易く、ストレッチ性のある織編物になる。旋回数（沸水処理後）が１９０以下であれば、複合糸の撚り戻り解撚トルクが強くなり過ぎず、染色工程における糸の飛び出しが防止できる。 Further, in the present invention, it is preferable that the number of turns (after boiling water treatment) of the polyester multifilament is 120 or more and 190 or less. When the number of turns (after boiling water treatment) is 120 or more, it is easy to obtain a feeling of swelling due to the untwisting and untwisting torque of the composite yarn, and the woven or knitted fabric has stretchability. When the number of turns (after boiling water treatment) is 190 or less, the untwisting and untwisting torque of the composite yarn does not become too strong, and the yarn can be prevented from popping out in the dyeing process.
ここで、旋回数（沸水処理前）とは糸の解撚トルクの強さを現す数値であり、ＪＩＳ－Ｌ１０９５スナール指数Ａ法に基づきポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸長５０ｃｍの試料の中央部に８．８２ｍＮ×繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）の荷重を掛け、糸両端を１ｃｍ／秒の速度で糸端間を１０ｃｍまで接近させる。通常法の場合、初めて旋回し始めた間隔を読み取るが、糸端の移動速度の差によりばらつきが生じやすい。この為糸端を１０ｃｍの間隔で固定し、糸の持つ解撚トルクによって糸が旋回し捩れたスナル状態部分の撚り数Ｔ（／１０ｃｍ）を検撚機で測定した。また、旋回数（ 沸水処理後）とは、旋回数（沸水処理前）の測定と同様にして糸端を１０ｃｍまで接近させ、糸が旋回し捩れたスナル状態部分をクリップで固定し、沸水中で１分間湿熱処理した後のスナル状態部分の撚り数Ｔ（／１０ｃｍ）を検撚機で測定した。 Here, the number of turns (before boiling water treatment) is a numerical value indicating the strength of the untwisting torque of the yarn, and is 8.82 mN in the center of a sample having a polyester multifilament yarn length of 50 cm based on the JIS-L1095 Snail index A method. × A load of fineness (dtex) is applied, and both ends of the yarn are brought close to each other up to 10 cm at a speed of 1 cm / sec. In the case of the normal method, the interval at which the yarn starts to turn is read for the first time, but variation is likely to occur due to the difference in the moving speed of the yarn end. Therefore, the yarn ends were fixed at intervals of 10 cm, and the twist number T (/ 10 cm) of the snull state portion where the yarn was swirled and twisted by the untwisting torque of the yarn was measured by a twisting machine. The number of swirls (after boiling water treatment) is the same as the measurement of the number of swirls (before boiling water treatment). The twist number T (/ 10 cm) of the snull state portion after the wet heat treatment for 1 minute was measured with a twisting machine.
また本発明では、撚糸工程の安定化の為、沸水処理前と沸水処理後の旋回数の差が５０以上であることが好ましい。沸水処理前後の旋回数差は、染色時に発現する潜在的に有する解撚トルクを示し、撚糸工程等準備工程でのビリつきが少なくなり、染色工程での湿熱下の処理でトルク発現が充分に発揮でき、十分なふくらみ感とストレッチ性が得られる。 Further, in the present invention, in order to stabilize the plying process, it is preferable that the difference in the number of turns before the boiling water treatment and after the boiling water treatment is 50 or more. The difference in the number of turns before and after the boiling water treatment indicates the potential untwisting torque generated during dyeing, the chattering in the preparatory process such as the twisting process is reduced, and the torque is sufficiently generated in the treatment under moist heat in the dyeing process. It can be demonstrated, and sufficient swelling and stretchability can be obtained.
次に、本発明の複合繊維布帛の製造法の一例を説明する。 Next, an example of the method for producing the composite fiber fabric of the present invention will be described.
また本発明のセルロース系フィラメント糸は、その製法や種類を特に限定するものではないが、アセテート繊維がその低屈折率からくる鮮明性、発色性、高級感のある光沢、適度なヤング率、分散染料可染性（カチオン染料可染性を有する品種もある）等を有しており好ましく用いられる。ちなみにジアセテートの公定水分率は約６．５%、トリアセテートは約３．５%であり適度な吸湿性と速乾性を有し、沸水収縮率も約２～３％と少ない。また風合いや光沢の高級感の点からトリアセテートの使用が更に好ましい。 The cellulosic filament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited in its manufacturing method and type, but the sharpness, color development, high-quality luster, appropriate Young's modulus, and dispersion of the acetate fiber due to its low refractive index. It has dye dyeability (some varieties have cationic dye dyeability) and is preferably used. By the way, the official moisture content of diacetate is about 6.5%, triacetate is about 3.5%, it has moderate hygroscopicity and quick-drying property, and the boiling water shrinkage rate is as low as about 2 to 3%. Further, it is more preferable to use triacetate from the viewpoint of high quality texture and luster.
これらのポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸とセルロース系マルチフィラメント糸を、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の有する旋回方向と逆方向で合撚し、撚糸セット温度８５℃度以下で処理した複合糸を織編し、染色することで、本発明の複合繊維布帛が得られる。 These polyester multifilament yarns and cellulose-based multifilament yarns are twisted together in the direction opposite to the turning direction of the polyester multifilament yarns, and the composite yarns treated at a plying set temperature of 85 ° C. or lower are woven and dyed. The composite fiber fabric of the present invention can be obtained.
以下、実施例をあげて本発明を説明する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples.
なお、評価は以下の方法に従った。 The evaluation was performed according to the following method.
（摩擦係数）
表面試験機（ＫＥＳ ＦＢ－４、カトーテック社製）を使用し、荷重４００ｇで測定した。
(Coefficient of friction)
A surface tester (KES FB-4, manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) was used, and the measurement was performed under a load of 400 g.
（ドレープ係数）
ＪＩＳ１０９６剛軟度Ｇ法に準じて測定した。
(Drape coefficient)
It was measured according to the JIS1096 rigidity and softness G method.
（捲縮率）
ＪＩＳ１０１３伸縮性Ｃ法（簡便法）に準じて測定した。
(Crisp rate)
It was measured according to JIS1013 elasticity C method (simple method).
（シャリ感、ふくらみ感評価）
得られた複合繊維布帛をハンドリングで評価した。
◎：非常に優れている。
○：優れている。
△：一般レベル
×：劣っている。
(Evaluation of crispness and swelling)
The obtained composite fiber fabric was evaluated by handling.
⊚: Very good.
◯: Excellent.
Δ: General level ×: Inferior.
（実施例１）
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸（３３デシテックス（以下ｄｔｅｘ）／２４フィラメント（以下ｆ））を、三菱重工社製ＬＳ－２型仮撚機にて以下に示した条件で仮撚加工を行い、仮撚り方向がＺ方向とＳ方向の２種類の仮撚加工糸を得た。
(Example 1)
Polyester multifilament yarn (33 decitex (hereinafter dtex) / 24 filament (hereinafter f)) is false-twisted with an LS-2 type false twister manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. under the conditions shown below, and the false twist direction is changed. Two types of false twisted yarns in the Z direction and the S direction were obtained.
仮撚り撚り係数：２００００［仮撚り数：３５００ｔ／ｍ］
仮撚り方向：Ｚ、Ｓ
仮撚り温度：２２０℃／－（１ヒーター／２ヒーター）
仮撚りオーバーフィード率：＋３％
得られたポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、旋回数（ 沸水処理後）が１２５、旋回数（沸水処理後）－旋回数（沸水処理前）が１１５、捲縮率が８％の特性を有するものであった。
False twist Twist coefficient: 20000 [Number of false twists: 3500t / m]
False twist direction: Z, S
False twist temperature: 220 ° C /-(1 heater / 2 heater)
False twist overfeed rate: + 3%
The obtained polyester multifilament false twisted yarn has the characteristics of 125 swirls (after boiling water treatment), 115 swirls (after boiling water treatment) -115 swirls (before boiling water treatment), and a crimp ratio of 8%. It was a thing.
前記２種類のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸それぞれと、セルローストリアセテートマルチフィラメント糸（８４ｄｔｅｘ／２０ｆ）とをパーンワインダーで合糸し、ダブルツイスターを使用し、仮撚方向と逆方向にそれぞれ撚係数Ｋが２４８００（２３００ｔ／ｍ）で撚糸し、８０℃×４０分で撚止めヒートセットを行ない、Ｓ撚りとＺ撚りの２種類の複合糸を得た。 Each of the above two types of polyester multifilament false twisted yarn and cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn (84dtex / 20f) are combined with a panwinder, and a double twister is used to twist the twist coefficient K in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction. Was twisted at 24800 (2300 t / m) and subjected to a twisting stop heat set at 80 ° C. × 40 minutes to obtain two types of composite yarns, S-twisted and Z-twisted.
このようにして得られたＳ撚りとＺ撚りの２種類の複合糸を用い、経糸及び緯糸について、Ｓ撚りした複合糸とＺ撚りした複合糸を交互に並び立て、経糸規格が１１５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格が８０本／２５．４ｍｍの経二重組織を製織し、該織物を精練、リラックス処理した後、温度１２５℃×時間６０分で染色し、巾だしセットを行い、経糸規格１７５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１００本／２５．４ｍｍの染色織物を得た。 Using the two types of composite yarns of S-twist and Z-twist thus obtained, the S-twisted composite yarn and the Z-twisted composite yarn are alternately arranged for the warp and weft, and the warp standard is 115 / 25. A warp and weft standard of .4 mm and a warp standard of 80 threads / 25.4 mm is woven, the fabric is scoured and relaxed, then dyed at a temperature of 125 ° C. x time 60 minutes, and a squeeze set is performed to perform a warp standard. A dyed woven fabric having 175 yarns / 25.4 mm and a warp standard of 100 yarns / 25.4 mm was obtained.
得られた染色織物は、繊細なシャリ感に加え、しなやかなドレープ性と適度な膨らみ感を有する織物であった。
これらの条件及び物性を表１に示す。
The obtained dyed woven fabric was a woven fabric having a supple drape property and an appropriate swelling feeling in addition to a delicate crispness.
Table 1 shows these conditions and physical properties.
（実施例２）
経糸規格を１４０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格を１００本／２５．４ｍｍの緯二重組織にした以外は実施例１と同様にして染色まで行い、経糸規格２１５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１１５本／２５．４ｍｍの染色織物を得た。
(Example 2)
Dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp standard was 140 lines / 25.4 mm and the weft standard was 100 lines / 25.4 mm, and the warp standard was 215 lines / 25.4 mm. A dyed fabric of 115 pieces / 25.4 mm was obtained.
得られた染色織物は、繊細なシャリ感に加え、しなやかなドレープ性と適度な膨らみ感を有する織物であった。
これらの条件及び物性を表１に示す。
The obtained dyed woven fabric was a woven fabric having a supple drape property and an appropriate swelling feeling in addition to a delicate crispness.
Table 1 shows these conditions and physical properties.
(実施例３)
経糸規格１１０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格８０本／２５．４ｍｍのサテン組織とした以外は実施例１と同様に染色加工までを施し、経糸規格１６０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１００本／２５．４ｍｍの染色織物を得た。
(Example 3)
Except for the satin structure of 110 warp / 25.4 mm and 80 / 25.4 mm weft, dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the warp standard was 160 / 25.4 mm and the weft standard was 100 /. A 25.4 mm dyed fabric was obtained.
得られた染色織物は、繊細なシャリ感に加え、しなやかなドレープ性と適度な膨らみ感を有する織物であった。
これらの条件及び物性を表１に示す。
The obtained dyed woven fabric was a woven fabric having a supple drape property and an appropriate swelling feeling in addition to a delicate crispness.
Table 1 shows these conditions and physical properties.
（実施例４）
経糸にＳ撚りの複合糸のみ使用し、経糸規格１２５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１００本／２５．４ｍｍの平二重組織にした以外は、実施例１と同様にして染色までを施し、経糸規格１８５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１２５本／２５．４ｍｍの染色織物を得た。
(Example 4)
Only S-twisted composite yarn was used for the warp, and dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp standard was 125 / 25.4 mm and the warp standard was 100 / 25.4 mm. Dyed fabrics having a warp standard of 185 threads / 25.4 mm and a weft standard of 125 threads / 25.4 mm were obtained.
得られた染色織物は、繊細なシャリ感に加え、しなやかなドレープ性と適度な膨らみ感を有する織物であった。
これらの条件及び物性を表１に示す。
The obtained dyed woven fabric was a woven fabric having a supple drape property and an appropriate swelling feeling in addition to a delicate crispness.
Table 1 shows these conditions and physical properties.
(比較例１)
Ｓ撚及びＺ撚りに、撚り係数が１５０００（撚り数１４００ｔ／ｍ）で撚糸した複合糸を使用し、経糸規格１３０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格８５本／２５．４ｍｍの経二重組織にした以外は、実施例１と同様に染色までを施し、経糸規格１８５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１１０本／２５．４ｍｍの染色織物を得た。
(Comparative Example 1)
For S-twist and Z-twist, a composite yarn twisted with a twist coefficient of 15000 (twist number 1400t / m) is used to create a warp and weft standard of 130 yarns / 25.4 mm and a warp and weft standard of 85 yarns / 25.4 mm. Dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain dyed woven fabrics having a warp standard of 185 yarns / 25.4 mm and a warp yarn standard of 110 yarns / 25.4 mm.
得られた染色織物は、適度なドライ感と膨らみ感を有する織物であったが、シャリ感は不足した織物であった。
これらの条件及び物性を表２に示す。
The obtained dyed woven fabric was a woven fabric having an appropriate dry feeling and a swelling feeling, but lacked a crisp feeling.
Table 2 shows these conditions and physical properties.
（比較例２）
経糸において、Ｓ撚りに、撚り係数が１５０００（撚り数１４００ｔ／ｍ）で撚糸した複合糸のみを使用し、経糸規格１５５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１００本／２５．４ｍｍの経二重組織にした以外は、実施例１と同様に染色までを施し、経糸規格２２０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１２３本／２５．４ｍｍの染色織物を得た。
(Comparative Example 2)
In the warp, only the composite yarn twisted with a twist coefficient of 15000 (twist number 1400 t / m) is used for S twist, and the warp standard is 155 / 25.4 mm, and the warp standard is 100 / 25.4 mm. The dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a dyed woven fabric having a warp standard of 220 threads / 25.4 mm and a weft standard of 123 threads / 25.4 mm.
得られた染色織物は、適度なドライ感と膨らみ感を有する織物であったが、シャリ感は不足した織物であった。
これらの条件及び物性を表２に示す。
The obtained dyed woven fabric was a woven fabric having an appropriate dry feeling and a swelling feeling, but lacked a crisp feeling.
Table 2 shows these conditions and physical properties.
（比較例３）
複合糸の撚り係数を１７３００（撚り数１６００ｔ／ｍ）にし、経糸規格１５０本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格９５本／２５．４ｍｍの平二重組織にした以外は、実施例１と同様に染色までを施し、経糸規格２０５本／２５．４ｍｍ、緯糸規格１２０本／２５．４ｍｍの染色織物を得た。
(Comparative Example 3)
Dyeing is the same as in Example 1 except that the twist coefficient of the composite yarn is 17300 (twist number 1600 t / m) and the warp standard is 150 threads / 25.4 mm and the weft standard is 95 threads / 25.4 mm. To obtain a dyed woven fabric having a warp standard of 205 threads / 25.4 mm and a weft standard of 120 threads / 25.4 mm.
得られた染色織物は、適度なドライ感と膨らみ感を有する織物であったが、シャリ感は不足した織物であった。
これらの条件及び物性を表２に示す。
The obtained dyed woven fabric was a woven fabric having an appropriate dry feeling and a swelling feeling, but lacked a crisp feeling.
Table 2 shows these conditions and physical properties.
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Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2001316951A (en) | 2000-03-03 | 2001-11-16 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Composite textured yarn and method for producing the same and woven/knitted fabric using the same |
| JP2008150737A (en) | 2006-12-15 | 2008-07-03 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Compound yarn |
| JP2009228198A (en) | 2008-02-28 | 2009-10-08 | Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd | Fabric having ribs, and middle east native costume made of the same |
| JP2009280922A (en) | 2008-05-20 | 2009-12-03 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Satin woven fabric |
| JP2014070310A (en) | 2012-09-28 | 2014-04-21 | Toyobo Stc Co Ltd | Cellulose-based composite yarn and woven and knitted product |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2001316951A (en) | 2000-03-03 | 2001-11-16 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Composite textured yarn and method for producing the same and woven/knitted fabric using the same |
| JP2008150737A (en) | 2006-12-15 | 2008-07-03 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Compound yarn |
| JP2009228198A (en) | 2008-02-28 | 2009-10-08 | Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd | Fabric having ribs, and middle east native costume made of the same |
| JP2009280922A (en) | 2008-05-20 | 2009-12-03 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Satin woven fabric |
| JP2014070310A (en) | 2012-09-28 | 2014-04-21 | Toyobo Stc Co Ltd | Cellulose-based composite yarn and woven and knitted product |
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