WO2014083966A1

WO2014083966A1 - Polyamide crimped yarn for clothing and woven or knitted fabric for clothing comprising same

Info

Publication number: WO2014083966A1
Application number: PCT/JP2013/078423
Authority: WO
Inventors: 吉田　学; 木村　敏明; 吉伸蒲生
Original assignee: 東レ株式会社
Priority date: 2012-11-28
Filing date: 2013-10-21
Publication date: 2014-06-05
Also published as: EP2927357A1; US20150292125A1; JPWO2014083966A1; KR20150088244A; CN104812949A; EP2927357A4

Abstract

The invention provides: polyamide crimped yarn for clothing that makes it possible to provide woven or knitted fabric that is lightweight and has a prominent woven or knitted texture together with having the feeling of volume and resilience greatly sought after for clothing, particularly for women's clothing materials focusing on fall and winter women's clothing; woven or knitted fabric for clothing; and women's apparel. [Solution] This polyamide crimped yarn for clothing is characterized by fulfilling requirements (1)-(3) and being composed of multifilaments. (1) The monofilament fineness is from 1.5 to 25 decitex, (2) the total fineness is from 400 to 1500 decitex, and (3) the monofilament cross-sectional shape is a multilobar shape having three or more lobes, and the degree of modification is from 1.5 to 5.5.

Description

Polyamide crimped yarn for clothing and woven or knitted fabric for clothing comprising the same

The present invention relates to a clothing polyamide crimped yarn and a woven or knitted fabric for clothing comprising the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing, particularly suitable for women's clothing, and a woven or knitted fabric made of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing, and a women's clothing material mainly used for fall and winter The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric for clothing having a required solid volume feeling and a firm feeling and being characterized by a light-weight appearance and a woven / knitted structure, and ladies' clothing using them.

In recent years, yarns and woven and knitted fabrics for clothing have been proposed by pursuing materials that emphasize soft texture and high drapability by using lighter fabrics that use thinner and more delicate polyester fibers and polyamide fibers. Yes. In particular, middle-thick woven fabrics mainly for autumn / winter applications are developed by woven and knitted fabrics using false twisted yarns of polyester fibers and polyamide fibers, sea-island type fibers and composite split yarns. However, these woven and knitted fabrics are still inadequate to reach the voluminous and harsh feelings of the woolen wool material, which is the mainstay in coat and outer applications.

Further, the total fineness of polyester fiber yarns and polyamide fiber yarns developed for clothing is usually in the range of 22 decitex to 200 decitex, and these yarns are mixed and used by twisting. However, in order to obtain the volume feeling of the woolen wool material, it is necessary to twist at least 3 to 4 yarns, which makes the production cost high and difficult to use as a general-purpose material. In addition, when false twisted yarn is used to obtain a sense of volume, it is difficult to use because there is a problem that even if a sense of volume is obtained, the texture becomes hard and rough, and it becomes too heavy for clothing. Met.

On the other hand, as a lightweight heavyweight woven fabric, a lightweight heavyweight fabric using a well-shaped cross-section nylon hollow multifilament yarn with a hollowness of 5-30%, a single fiber fineness of 5 denier or more, and a total fineness of 300 denier or more A woven fabric has been proposed (see Patent Document 1).

In this proposal, since a lightweight thick fabric is obtained by using a hollow hollow stretched yarn of a nylon fiber and a gap between single fibers by a modified cross section and a fineness of 300 denier or more, a fabric thickness and a light feeling can be obtained. It is difficult to obtain a crisp, dry and firm feeling, and a voluminous voluminous feel, and the soft feeling pursued in recent garment materials has not been satisfactory.

In addition, as a cloth for western clothing, a fabric having both a flexibility and a harsh feeling using a synthetic fiber yarn having a single fiber fineness of 5 denier or more for the weft yarn has been proposed (see Patent Document 2). However, in this proposal, in order to obtain a sense of elasticity, synthetic fibers with a single fiber fineness of 5 denier or more are used only for the weft yarns, and since the drawn yarns are used, it is firmly like a woolen wool material. It has not yet reached a sense of volume and swelling.

Japanese Patent No. 3321321 Japanese Patent No. 4214612

As described above, the prior art has not yet achieved a knitted or knitted fabric that satisfies the voluminous and harsh feelings required for apparel use, particularly for women's apparel applications such as autumn / winter use.

Therefore, in view of the background of the above-mentioned prior art, the object of the present invention is to reduce the manufacturing cost, have a solid volume feeling and a moderate harshness, and are lightweight and have a distinctive appearance quality that stands out from the woven or knitted structure. An object of the present invention is to provide a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric, a woven or knitted fabric using the same, and a women's garment using the woven or knitted fabric.

The present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3) and is characterized by comprising a multifilament. It is a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing.
(1) The single fiber fineness is 1.5 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less,
(2) The total fineness is 400 dtex or more and 1500 dtex or less,
(3) The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a multi-leaf shape having 3 or more leaves, and the degree of irregularity is 1.5 or more and 5.5 or less.

According to a preferred aspect of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a multi-leaf shape of three or more leaves formed by extending radially from the center point of the single fiber cross section, and is irregularly shaped. The degree is 1.7 or more and 5.5 or less, and the coefficient of variation (CV)% of the degree of irregularity is less than 7.0 and 1.0 or more.

According to a preferred embodiment of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, the single fiber is a hollow fiber having a hollow ratio of 5% to 25%.

According to a preferred embodiment of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, the elongation rate of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention after boiling water treatment is 5% or more and 30% or less, and the number of entanglements is 5 / m. More than 50 / m.

According to a preferred embodiment of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, a real twist is imparted to the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, and the twist coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is 300 or more and 35. , 000 or less.
-Twisting coefficient K = T x D ^1/2 (1)
T = Number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D = Total fineness of yarn (decitex).

The woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention contains the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing described above.

According to a preferred aspect of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention contains at least 25% by mass of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing.

According to a preferred aspect of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention has a lightness (cm ³ / g) of 3.0 or more and 6.0 or less and a heat retention (%). 20 or more and 50 or less.

According to a preferred embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention comprises the above-mentioned polyamide crimped yarn for clothing, natural fibers, synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers and the like selected from the following group: Among the regenerated fibers, the thread form including at least one kind of fibers is woven or knitted and dyed.
[group]
Natural fiber: wool, cotton, animal hair or hemp synthetic fiber: cationic dye-dyed polyester or acrylic semi-synthetic fiber: acetate regenerated fiber: rayon or cupra.

According to a preferred embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the crimp rate of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained by decomposing the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is 2.5% or more and 25% or less.

According to a preferred embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the garment using the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is a clothing selected from the group consisting of a coat, a cloak, a jacket, a skirt, a dress, and a dress.

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing that is most suitable for a woven fabric for garment with a sense of volume, and a woven fabric for clothing comprising the same. More preferably, according to the present invention, it is a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing that is most suitable for women's clothing, a woven or knitted fabric made of polyamide crimped yarn for clothing and required for clothing materials, mainly for autumn / winter use Women's clothing It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric for clothing that has a solid volume feeling and a moderate harshness, and is lightweight and has a distinctive appearance quality that makes the woven and knitted fabric stand out, and women's clothing using them.

FIG. 1 is a drawing-substituting photograph showing a single fiber cross-sectional shape of a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained in Example 1 of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a drawing-substituting photograph showing the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber of a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained in Example 2 of the present invention.

Next, the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing and the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention will be described in more detail.

The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention is a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing characterized by satisfying the following requirements (1) to (3) and comprising a multifilament.
(1) The single fiber fineness is 1.5 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less,
(2) The total fineness is 400 dtex or more and 1500 dtex or less,
(3) The single yarn cross-sectional shape is a multi-leaf shape having 3 or more leaves, and the degree of irregularity is 1.5 or more and 5.5 or less.

The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention has a single fiber fineness of 1.5 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less, preferably 1.5 decitex or more and 20 decitex or less, more preferably 1.5 decitex or more and 15 decitex or less. It is.

If the single yarn fineness is less than 1.5 decitec, a soft texture can be obtained, but the voids between the single fibers are reduced, making it difficult to obtain a sense of volume. When the single fiber fineness exceeds 25 dtex, the fabric thickness can be obtained, but the swelled and solid volume feeling, and the appropriate harshness and texture required for clothing cannot be obtained. In addition, in the use of women's clothing, it may be a factor that causes damage to the skin of women and inner and inner garments due to irritation such as friction and poor appearance.

The total fineness of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention is 400 dtex or more and 1500 dtex or less, preferably 400 dtex or more and 1200 dtex or less, and more preferably 800 dtex or more and 1100 dtex or less.

When the total fineness is less than 400 dtex, it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling during knitting and knitting, and in order to obtain a volume feeling, a process of twisting at least three yarns is required, which increases the manufacturing cost and is not economically preferable. . In addition, when the total fineness exceeds 1500 dtex, not only the texture becomes hard, but also in the process of twisting, warping, weaving and knitting for producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, and generally used clothing In some cases, it may become impossible to manufacture with a facility for producing woven or knitted fabrics.

The single-fiber cross-sectional shape of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention is a multi-leaf shape of 3 or more leaves, and the degree of deformity is 1.5 or more and 5.5 or less. Specific examples of the shape of three or more leaves are Y-shaped, cross-shaped, H-shaped, and X-section, among which Y-shaped section is preferably used from the balance of texture and volume feeling.

The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention has a multi-leaf shape of three or more leaves formed radially extending from the center point of the single fiber cross section, and the degree of deformity is 1.7 or more and 5.5 or less. It is preferable that the coefficient of variation (CV)% of the irregularity is less than 7.0 and 1.0 or more.

The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is more preferably a three-leaf or four-leaf shape, and the deformity is more preferably 2.0 or more and 4.0 or less. The single fiber cross-sectional shape is particularly preferably a three-leaf Y-shaped cross-sectional shape, and the degree of irregularity is 2.0 or more and 3.0 or less. If the single fiber cross-sectional shape is less than 3 leaves, voids between single fibers are difficult to develop, and it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling. In addition, when the shape is not a multi-leaf shape formed radially extending from the center point of the single fiber cross section, the appearance quality of the woven or knitted fabric is likely to be irritated, resulting in a lack of luxury. If the degree of irregularity is less than 1.5, voids between single fibers are difficult to develop and it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling. If the degree of irregularity exceeds 5.5, the texture is too hard and the sharpness is too strong. This is not preferable because it causes irritation to the skin and causes poor appearance due to friction or the like on other clothes.

The coefficient of variation (CV) of the irregularity is preferably 1.0% or more and less than 7.0%, and more preferably 1.0% or more and 5.5% or less. A crimped yarn having a CV of less than 1% is in a state where there is almost no variation in the degree of deformation between single yarns, but is substantially difficult to produce. Further, when the CV exceeds 7.0%, the variation in the degree of irregularity between the single fibers is large, so that the single fibers having a relatively small degree of irregularity are arranged between the single yarns having a relatively large degree of irregularity. It becomes difficult for the gaps between them to be expressed, and it is difficult to obtain a firm and voluminous feeling of swelling and an appropriate harshness and texture required for clothing.

According to the study by the inventors, it has been confirmed that the false twisted yarn having a high degree of deformity has a high CV, and this is because the false twist is imparted under strong conditions simultaneously with heat and twist. In this processing step, it is considered that the cross-sectional deformation due to the stress applied to the single fiber is different between the single fibers.

In addition, a false twisted yarn having an irregularity of less than 1.5 can yield a crimped yarn having a CV of less than 5.5.
It becomes difficult to develop voids between single fibers, making it difficult to obtain a volume feeling.

The single fiber constituting the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention preferably has a hollowness of 5% or more and 25% or less. By adopting a hollow fiber having a hollow cross section, a lighter volume feeling can be obtained. A more preferable hollow ratio is 5% to 15%. If the hollowness is less than 5%, it is difficult to obtain light weight. On the other hand, when the hollow ratio exceeds 25%, in the production of crimped yarns, it becomes easy to generate yarn-forming properties, collapse of the hollow cross section when crimping is applied, or the like. One or a plurality of hollow portions may be present in a cross section perpendicular to the fiber length of a single fiber, but the total of the hollow ratios is preferably 5 to 25%.

The elongation percentage after boiling water treatment of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention is preferably 5% or more and 30% or less, and more preferably 8% or more and 30% or less. When the elongation rate after boiling water treatment is less than 5%, the volume feeling and swelling may be lowered. In addition, a crimped yarn with an elongation rate exceeding 30% can be crimped by a false twisting machine using a pin or belt, but the cross section of the single fiber is easily crushed, resulting in poor appearance such as uneven glossiness and irritation. It tends to occur.

The number of entangled polyamide crimped yarns for clothing of the present invention is preferably 5 / m to 50 / m, more preferably 10 / m to 40 / m. More preferably, the number of entanglements is 10 pieces / m or more and 20 pieces / m or less. When the number of entanglements is less than 5 / m, fluff is likely to occur in the processes such as twisting, warping, weaving and knitting for producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, and the process passability may be significantly reduced. Further, when the number of entanglements exceeds 50 / m, the process passability when producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing is good, but the convergence between single fibers is high and the gaps are reduced, making it difficult to obtain a sense of volume. Tend.

The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention is preferably provided with a real twist, and the twist coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is preferably 300 or more and 35,000 or less.
-Twisting coefficient K = T x D ^1/2 (1)
T = Number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D = Total fineness of yarn (decitex).

More preferably, the twist coefficient (K) is 600 or more and 32,000 or less, and more preferably 800 or more and 28,000 or less. When the twist coefficient (K) is less than 300, a feeling of swelling can be obtained, but there are cases in which fluffing in the warping process used for warp yarns is likely to occur, especially when producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient (K) exceeds 35,000, the convergence is too high, and it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling, and there is a tendency that the sharpness and dry feeling are too strong. By imparting a real twist having a twist coefficient (K) of 600 or more and 32,000 or less, not only the process passability when producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing is improved, but the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing is suitable. Due to the convergence and untwisting torque, it is possible to maximize the sense of volume and swell as intended by the present invention.

In addition, as for the method of imparting the actual twist, a down twister, a double twister or the like that is usually used for clothing can be used. In addition, when there is a problem such as chatter in process passability, there is no problem even if a steam set or the like is implemented as a twist set after timely twisting.

In the production of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 610, nylon 56, etc. can be used as the polymer, and those made of nylon 6 or nylon 66 are particularly preferably used. In addition, these polymers can contain a copolymer component as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

Examples of the copolymer component include ε-capramide, tetramethylene adipamide, hexamethylene sebacamide, tetramethylene isophthalamide, and tetramethylene terephthalamide. As the matting agent, titanium oxide is preferably used.

The basic process for producing a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing in the present invention is produced by a crimped yarn producing process comprising ordinary melt spinning, cooling, oiling, drawing, and crimping. The melt spinning apparatus used in the present invention can be used in both an extruder-type spinning machine and a pressure melter-type spinning machine, but an extruder-type spinning machine is preferably used in terms of product uniformity and yarn production yield. . When a matting agent is added, a master chip to which a matting agent is added at a high concentration and a chip blended with a polyamide chip can be introduced into the spinning machine, and each chip is introduced while being measured directly above the spinning machine. You can also. Also, the matting agent can be directly put into the spinning machine in the form of powder or liquid.

In order to satisfy the specific total fineness, single fiber fineness, cross-sectional shape, etc. of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, the spinning conditions such as polyamide viscosity, spinning temperature, die hole shape, discharge rate and cooling are appropriately set. Set and melt spin.

The melt-spun yarn is cooled and solidified by cold air, and after an oil agent is applied, the yarn is wound around a take-up roller that rotates at a predetermined take-up speed. The take-up speed is preferably 300 to 1500 m / min. Usually, the drawn yarn is continuously subjected to a drawing process and a crimping process continuously. As another method, it is also possible to perform a drawing process and a crimping process in a separate process after winding the undrawn thread once, or a method of performing a crimping process in a separate process after winding the drawn thread once. is there.

In the present invention, in order for the polyamide crimped yarn to have an elongation rate after boiling water treatment of 5% or more and 30% or less, it is preferable to crimp the molecular chain after sufficiently increasing the orientation of the molecular chain in the stretching step. The stretching ratio is preferably in the range of 2.0 to 4.0 times, and the stretching is preferably performed so that the elongation becomes 30 to 100%. Next, the drawn yarn is subjected to a crimping process through a crimping device. The crimping process is performed by a heated fluid process such as saturated steam, superheated steam, or heated air. As the crimping apparatus, for example, a crimping nozzle apparatus disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2004-84080 can be used. Normally, it is crimped by the jet nozzle method with the crimping nozzle, and a high-temperature high-temperature fluid such as superheated steam or heated air is brought into contact with the yarn passing through the needle from the surroundings, and released into the atmosphere for cooling. By doing so, crimp is provided. Furthermore, for the purpose of fixing crimps, it is possible to employ a method in which cold air is blown to the crimped yarn that has passed through the crimp nozzle, or the crimped yarn is deposited on the surface of the rotary filter that is sucked inside and cooled. it can.

The temperature of the crimp nozzle during crimping is preferably 190 to 250 ° C, more preferably 210 to 240 ° C. When the temperature of the crimp nozzle is less than 190 ° C., it is difficult to sufficiently apply crimp because heat treatment is insufficient. On the other hand, if the temperature of the crimp nozzle exceeds 250 ° C., the heat treatment becomes excessive, the polymer is fused or deteriorated, and the physical properties such as the strength, elongation and elongation rate of the crimped yarn may be lowered.

適度 Appropriate stretch is given to the crimped crimped yarn to make the crimp partially latent, and then confounding treatment is given to give convergence before winding, and it is wound by a winder.

The woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention comprises the above-described polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, and contains at least 25% by mass of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention. It is preferable.

When the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing occupying the entire woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is less than 25% by mass, it is difficult to obtain the volume characteristics, the harshness, and the light-weight appearance characteristics that make the woven and knitted fabric stand out. There is. The proportion of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing in the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is selected in the range of up to 100% by mass.

The woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention preferably has a lightness (cm ³ / g) of 3.0 or more and 6.0 or less, and a heat retention (%) of 20 or more and 50 or less. When the lightness is less than 3.0, it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling, which is one of the objects of the present invention, and polyester fibers and polyamides having a total fineness range of 22 decitex to 200 decitex that have been developed for clothing. This is a range that can be achieved with a woven or knitted fabric of fiber yarns, and is insufficient in lightness. Moreover, when the lightness exceeds 6.0, an excellent volume feeling, lightness and heat retention can be obtained, but the woven or knitted fabric becomes very thick, so that it is difficult to sew and substantially difficult to manufacture. Sometimes. In addition, lack of firmness, poor fabric slip resistance resistance and fabric fraying are likely to occur.

If the heat retention is 20% or less, it is difficult to say that it is required for autumn and winter applications, and it has been achieved with woven and knitted fabrics of polyester fibers and polyamide fiber yarns with a total fineness of 22 decitex to 200 decitex that have been developed for clothing. It is a possible range. On the other hand, if the heat retention exceeds 50%, it is difficult to obtain light weight, and it is necessary to make it very thick.

The woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention can contain other fibers in addition to the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention. Other fibers include polyester filament raw or false twisted yarn, nylon filament raw or false twisted yarn, spun yarn synthetic fiber, acetate filament yarn semi-synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber such as rayon filament or span yarn, Examples include natural fibers such as wool and cotton. Examples of the form of the other fibers include other fibers alone, or knitting and weaving with blended fibers, blended fibers, and twisted ones.

As a form of the fabric in the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention is used at least for warp and / or weft, and the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention is 25 masses. It is a preferable aspect to contain% or more. If the woven structure is a woven structure such as flat, twill, satin, ripple, amundsen, flat double and twill double structure, an appearance characteristic that makes the structure stand out can be obtained.

Also in the form of the knitted fabric, examples of the knitted fabric include warp knitted fabrics such as a half structure and a denby structure, and circular knitted fabric structures such as a punched structure, a mockroded structure, a tengu structure, and a milling structure. In particular, the circular knitted fabric is knitted fabric with excellent volume characteristics, harshness and light weight, and excellent appearance characteristics that make the woven knitted fabric stand out due to the voids of the knitted fabric and the effect of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention. .

In addition, the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing used in the garment knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention is within a range that does not cause problems with the volume feeling and the harshness that are the characteristics of the present invention and the processability when producing the woven or knitted fabric. For example, it can be used even in a non-twisted state. In order to maximize the feeling of volume and swell, as described above, the twist coefficient (K) of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing is preferably in the range of 300 to 35,000.

Furthermore, as means for making the appearance characteristics that make the woven and knitted structure stand out, the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention and natural fibers, synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers and regenerated fibers selected from the following group are interwoven or It is a preferred embodiment to knit and dye with two or more different dye species or a single dye species.

As such a group of fibers, natural fibers include wool, cotton, hemp, and animal hair (cashmere, mohair, angora and camel). Synthetic fibers include cationic dye-dyed polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, and semi-synthetic fibers. Examples of acetate fiber and recycled fiber include rayon and cupra.

In the production of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing is preferably contained at least 25% by weight, and the woven or knitted raw machine is subjected to scouring, relaxation, drying and dry heat, which are the usual processes of woven or knitted fabric. After setting, the methods commonly applied in dyeing, drying and finishing processes are applied.

Depending on other fibers to be knitted or woven, commonly applied methods such as mercerization, shrinking, enzyme weight loss and alkali weight loss can be applied. Moreover, in order to obtain a more excellent volume feeling and tension feeling, it is also a preferable aspect to apply a process of shrinking the polyamide fiber yarn by heat treatment using a treatment liquid containing benzyl alcohol. Furthermore, finishing resin processing such as softness, water repellency, antifouling, antibacterial, antistatic and the like can be applied as necessary within the scope of achieving the object of the present invention.

Examples of the dye species herein include disperse dyes, metal-containing dyes, acid dyes, reactive dyes, cationic dyes, and direct dyes. By dyeing the above-mentioned knitted or knitted knitted fabric with two or more kinds of dyes, the distinction of the woven or knitted structure can be obtained due to the different color effect due to the hue difference between the fibers. At the same time, the fashionability required for women's clothing can be imparted. In addition, when dyed with a single dye, a hue difference due to a dyeing difference occurs between fibers dyed with the same dyed crimp yarn for clothing, so that the woven and knitted fabric can be distinguished. When dyed with a single dye, or when knitted or woven with undyed fibers that are not dyed with the same dye, or when knitted or woven with pre-dyed yarn, the hue of the dyed fibers and undyed fibers Due to the contrast of the hue, a distinctive appearance and fashionability of the woven or knitted structure can be obtained.

As each dye of the dye type to be used, a commercially available dye can be used, and as a dyeing method, a generally known method is applied.

In the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, it is preferable that the crimp rate of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained by decomposing the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is 2.5% or more and 25% or less. The crimp rate is more preferably 3% or more and 20% or less. When the crimp rate of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained is less than 2.5%, it is difficult to obtain a voluminous volume feeling. It becomes difficult to obtain a feeling. Moreover, when it is used as a garment, a soft phenomenon that does not recover when the fabric is stretched easily occurs.

The thus obtained woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is suitably used as, for example, women's clothing for upper clothing selected from coats, cloaks, jackets, skirts, dresses and dresses.

Next, the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing and the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. The characteristic values shown in the above description and in the examples and comparative examples are measured by the following methods.

(1) Total fineness: JIS L1013 (2010 edition) 8.3.1 b) The positive fineness specified in the B method was measured and used as the total fineness.

(2) Single fiber fineness: It was determined by dividing the total fineness by the number of filaments.

(3) Elongation rate after boiling water treatment: The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing was skeined and allowed to stand for 3 hours in a room at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH and let it shrink. Subsequently, it was immersed in boiling water for 20 minutes to perform boiling water treatment. The skeined yarn treated with boiling water was left to dry in the room for 12 hours. Next, the yarn was cut to a length of about 1 m, and assuming that the total fineness of the yarn was A (dtex), an initial load of 17.7 A (μN) (1.8 A (mg)) was applied for 30 seconds. The length L1 of the subsequent yarn was first measured.

Next, the length L2 of the yarn after applying a constant load of 883 A (μN) (90 A (mg)) for 30 seconds was measured. The crimp elongation rate G (%) in the present invention was determined from the following formula (2) from the above L1 and L2. The crimp elongation rate G (%) was determined from the average value of 5 samples.
G = {(L2−L1) / L1} × 100 (%) (2).

(4) Number of entanglement: The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing was visually measured for the number of entanglement per meter. Measurement was carried out five times in the longitudinal direction of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing, and the average value was obtained. Or, the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing that can be disassembled from the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is the one provided with the actual twist. After removing the actual twist using the untwisting machine, visually check the number of entanglements per 50 cm. It was measured. It measured 5 times in the longitudinal direction of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing after untwisting, and the number of entanglements was determined from the average value of numerical values converted per 1 m.

(5) Deformation degree: The end of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing wrapped with rayon staples was passed through a hole (hole diameter: 1.0 mm) provided in a stainless steel preparation with a thickness of 0.5 mm, and the preparation was made with a safety razor. A sample cut in parallel along both sides was used as a sample for cross-sectional observation. This sample was observed at 500 times using a digital microscope “VHX-500” manufactured by KEYENCE, and the following formula was obtained from the diameter D of the circumscribed circle of the single fiber cross section and the diameter d of the inscribed circle of the single fiber cross section. The degree of irregularity was obtained from (3). The degree of profile was determined from the average value of 10 samples. The circumscribed circle as used herein means the smallest circle including a single fiber cross section inside, and the inscribed circle as used herein refers to a single fiber cross section (in the case of hollow fibers, the hollow portion is also included). Means the largest circle contained inside the single fiber cross-section).
Deformity = D / d (3).

(6) Hollow ratio: The end of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing wrapped with rayon staples is passed through a hole (hole diameter: 1.0 mm) provided in a stainless steel preparation with a thickness of 0.5 mm, and the preparation is made with a safety razor. A sample cut in parallel along both sides was used as a sample for cross-sectional observation. This sample was observed 500 times using a digital microscope “VHX-500” manufactured by KEYENCE, and the area measurement function was used to calculate the following equation (4) from the cross-sectional area S of the fiber including the hollow portion and the area s of the hollow portion. ). The hollow ratio was determined from the average value of 10 samples.
Hollow ratio = (s / S) × 100 (%) (4).

(7) Twisting coefficient: Polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing or a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, the number T of twists per meter calculated by an untwisting machine, and the above (1) total fineness It calculated | required from following formula (1) from D. The twist coefficient was determined from the average value of 10 samples.
-Twist coefficient K = T * D1 ^{/ 2} ... (1).
T = Number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D = Total fineness of yarn (decitex).

(8) Crimp rate: Measured according to the method of yarn weaving rate B method stipulated in JIS L1096 (2010 edition), initial load is 0.002 cN / dtex, constant load is 0.11 cN / dtex As a result, the numerical value obtained from the following formula (5) was used as the crimp rate. The crimp rate was determined from the average value of 3 samples of 20 cm.
-Crimp rate (%) = (Length at constant load-Length at initial load) / (Length at initial load) x 100
(5)
(9) Variability coefficient of variation (CV): All the obtained single fibers were measured according to the method for measuring the degree of variation in the above item (5) except that the number of samples was all single fibers. From the standard deviation σ and the average value μ of the degree of irregularity, the following formula (6) was used.
CV = (σ / μ) × 100 (%) (6).

(10) Volume feeling: As for the volume feeling, the following sensory judgments were made by five texture judges, and ○ was accepted.
○: There is a solid sense of volume.
Δ: Volume feeling is insufficient and insufficient.
X: Defect without volume feeling.

(11) Feeling of firmness: The texture of the feeling of firmness was determined by the following sensory judgments by five texture judgment persons, and “◯” was accepted.
○: Good with a moderate harshness.
(Triangle | delta): A firmness feeling is insufficient and is inadequate.
X: There is no harshness or there is too much to be defective.

(12) Appearance quality: The quality of the stand-out feeling of the woven or knitted structure was determined by the following visual inspection on the fabric inspection machine, and “◯” was accepted.
○: The outstanding feeling of the woven or knitted structure is good.
(Triangle | delta): The outstanding feeling of a woven / knitted structure is inadequate.
X: It is unsatisfactory without noticeable texture of the woven or knitted structure.

(13) Weight per unit area: Measured using a mass A method per unit area in a standard state defined in JIS L1096 (2010 edition).

(14) Thickness: Measured using the thickness A method defined in JIS L1096 (2010 edition).

(15) Lightness: The numerical value measured using the bulkiness method specified in JIS L1096 (2010 edition) was defined as lightness.

(16) Thermal insulation: A value obtained by the thermal insulation rate A method defined in JIS L1096 (2010 edition) was defined as thermal insulation (%).

(17) Productivity and process passability: Judged from the presence or absence of yarn breakage and fluffing in the raw machine productivity and process passability of knitted and knitted fabrics, and passed as ○: ○: split yarn, twisted yarn, warp, Good weaving and knitting, and good productivity.
(Triangle | delta): A fluff generate | occur | produces slightly by original yarn division | segmentation, twisting, warping, weaving, and knitting, there is a problem of thread breakage, and production is somewhat poor.
X: Fluff and yarn breakage occur in raw yarn splitting, twisting, warping, weaving and knitting, resulting in failure or poor productivity.

(Example 1)
A nylon 6 polymer having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing 0.13% by weight of titanium oxide was melt-spun using an extruder-type spinning machine. The spinning temperature is 250 ° C. Using a die having a hole for a three-leaf cross section (Y type), the total fineness is 970 dtex, the number of filaments is 360, the single fiber fineness is 2.7 dtex, and the degree of deformation is The yarn was made to be 2.15. The spinning speed was 1200 m / min, the draw ratio was 2.4 times, and the film was hot drawn at a drawing temperature of 195 ° C. Subsequently, the drawn yarn was continuously applied and crimped using a known jet stuffer nozzle. Subsequently, after cooling with a cooling roll without winding, it was stretched by applying 0.12 cN / dtex to make crimps latent, and then tangled with 12 pieces / m through a tangling nozzle to give 2600 m / min. I wound up with.

In this way, the total fineness is 970 dtex, the number of filaments is 360, the single fiber fineness is 2.7 dtex, the deformity is 2.15, the CV is 5.35%, and the boiling water of the Y-shaped cross section. A polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having an elongation rate of 9.3% after treatment and a tangle of 12 / m was obtained. The single fiber cross section of the obtained polyamide crimped yarn for clothing is shown in FIG.

Next, after using a rewinder to divide the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing into an appropriate winding weight, a double twister is used to give an actual twist of 100 T / m in the S twist direction, for clothing with a twist coefficient of K3114. A polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

Using the obtained polyamide crimped yarn for clothing, using a polyamide polyamide crimped yarn with a twist of 100 T / m as the warp, and using a non-twisted polyamide crimped yarn for clothing as the weft, the warp density was 31 A woven fabric (raw machine) using 100% by weight polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having an ox structure of /2.54 cm and a weft density of 35 / 2.54 cm was woven. The permeability in the process for producing this fabric was good. Next, after the scouring, relaxation, and dry heat setting, which are normal processes for fabrics, the obtained raw machine is dyed with a liquid dyeing machine using an acid dye, and then finished by drying and dry heat setting. A woven fabric for clothing using a polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

The garment polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposition from the obtained garment fabric has a crimp rate of 11.2%, a light weight of 3.16, and a heat retention of 21.6%. The woven fabric was suitable for women's apparel use, especially for upper apparel.

(Example 2)
Using the same nylon 6 polymer as in Example 1, melt spinning was performed in the same manner. Spinning temperature is 250 ° C, using a die having a hole for a three-leaf cross section (Y type) hollow cross section, the total fineness is 940 dtex, the number of filaments is 68, the single fiber fineness is 13.8 dtex, The yarn was produced at a degree of 2.65. The spinning speed was 1200 m / min, the draw ratio was 2.4 times, and the drawing temperature was 195 ° C., and the film was hot drawn. Subsequently, the drawn yarn was continuously applied and crimped using a known jet stuffer nozzle. Continue to cool with a chill roll without winding, then stretch by applying 0.12 cN / dtex to make crimps latent, and then through the entanglement nozzle, 14 entanglements / m are applied and 2600 m / min. Winded up.

Thus, the total fineness is 940 dtex, the number of filaments is 68, the single fiber fineness is 13.8 dtex, the deformity is 2.65, the CV is 4.16%, and the hollowness is 12%. A polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having a Y-shaped cross section, an elongation ratio after boiling water treatment of 17.0%, and an entanglement number of 14 / m was obtained. The single fiber cross section of the obtained polyamide crimped yarn for clothing is shown in FIG.

Then, in the same manner as in Example 1, after splitting, a real twist of 200 T / m was applied in the S twist direction to obtain a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having a twist coefficient of K6132.

The obtained polyamide crimped yarn for clothing was used as warp and weft, and 100 weight of polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having an ox structure with a warp density of 24 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 35 / 2.54 cm. % Used woven fabric (green machine). The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good.

Next, the obtained raw machine was processed in the normal process of the same fabric as in Example 1 to obtain a clothing fabric using a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing. The crimped rate of the garment polyamide crimped yarn obtained from the obtained woven fabric is 6.8%, lightness is 4.71, and heat retention is 23.7%. The woven fabric was suitable for women's apparel use, especially for upper apparel.

(Example 3)
The untwisted polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained in Example 1, 90% by weight of wool, 10% by weight of nylon, 1/16 dyed blended yarn, and 100% by weight of wool A knitted fabric (raw machine) using 50% by weight of a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having an inlay structure was knitted using a 1/48 single yarn knitting machine using a 2 / 48-dyed spun yarn. The permeability in the process of producing the knitted fabric was good.

Next, the obtained raw machine was finished by applying a softening agent by a relaxation process and a dry heat set, which are normal processes of knitting, and a knitted fabric for clothing using polyamide crimped yarn for clothing was obtained.

The crimp rate of the garment polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from the obtained knitted fabric is 16.7%, and the lightness 5 is. 08, heat retention is 34.8%, there is a solid volume feeling, moderate elasticity, very light weight, undyed polyamide crimped yarn for clothing and pre-dyed wool, nylon The knitted fabric was suitable for use in women's clothing, especially for upper clothing.

Example 4
Using the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained in Example 2, an actual twist of 300 T / m was applied in the S twist direction so that the twist coefficient K was 9198. Next, using the obtained polyamide crimped yarn for clothing as the warp, using the blended yarn of the hair No. 2/52 of the acrylic 60% rayon 40% and the nylon false twisted yarn of 33 dtex 10 filament as the weft, the warp density Was woven using 60% by weight of polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having a knotted twill double structure with a weft density of 80 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 / 2.54 cm. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good.

Next, the obtained raw machine is scoured, relaxed and dry heat set, which is a normal process of fabric, then dyed with a liquid dyeing machine using acid dye, cationic dye and direct dye, then dried and set with dry heat Finishing was performed to obtain a woven fabric for clothing using a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing.

The crimped rate of the garment polyamide crimped yarn obtained from the obtained woven fabric is 7.1%, the lightness is 4.03, the heat retention is 28.2%, and the volume is solid. Appropriate harshness, polyamide crimped yarn for clothing, nylon and acrylic and rayon hue difference and hue contrast, knitting structure with outstanding appearance quality, suitable for women's clothing use, especially upper clothing It was a woven fabric.

(Example 5)
Using the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained in Example 2, and then dividing in the same manner as in Example 1, then applying a real twist of 50 T / m in the S twist direction, and a polyamide yarn for clothing having a twist coefficient of K1532 A crimped yarn was obtained. Polyamide crimped yarn for clothing with warp added to the warp and spun yarn of cotton No. 60/2 made of 100% cotton in an array, and weft yarn of nylon false twisted yarn of 155 dtex 68 filament, Polyamide crimped yarn for clothing with a twill double-tissue having a warp density of 52 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 67 yarns / 2.54 cm, using spun yarns having a hair number of 2/30 of 100% wool in an array A woven fabric (raw machine) using 40% by weight was woven. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good.

Next, after scouring, relaxing and dry-heat setting, which is the normal process of fabrics, the resulting raw machine is dyed with a liquid dyeing machine using an acid dye, and then finished with drying and dry-heat set for clothing. A woven fabric for clothing using polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

The garment polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from the obtained garment fabric has a crimp rate of 6.0%, light weight of 3.06, heat retention of 28.9%, and a solid volume. There is a feeling and moderate elasticity, and there is a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing, a hue difference between nylon and wool, and a hue contrast effect due to the cotton remaining undyed. It was a woven fabric suitable for use, particularly for upper garments.

Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the woven and knitted fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 5 above.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using the same nylon 6 polymer as in Example 1, melt spinning was performed in the same manner. The spinning temperature is 250 ° C., using a die having a hole for a three-leaf cross section (Y-type), the total fineness is 970 dtex, the number of filaments is 700, the single fiber fineness is 1.39 dtex, and the profile is Was made to be 1.45. The spinning speed was 1200 m / min, the draw ratio was 2.4 times, the drawing temperature was 195 ° C., and the film was hot drawn. Subsequently, the drawn yarn was continuously applied and crimped using a known jet stuffer nozzle. Continue to cool with a chill roll without winding, then stretch by applying 0.12 cN / dtex to make crimps latent, and then through the entanglement nozzle, give entanglement of 8 pieces / m at 2600 m / min. Winded up.

In this way, the total fineness is 970 dtex, the number of filaments is 700, the single fiber fineness is 1.39 dtex, the deformity is 1.45, the CV is 5.11%, and the boiling water of the Y-shaped cross section. A polyamide crimped yarn having an elongation rate of 3.2% after the treatment and an entanglement number of 8 / m was obtained. After the obtained polyamide crimped yarn was divided and actually twisted in the same manner as in Example 1, a woven fabric having the same density and structure was obtained. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained woven fabric was finished in the same process as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric was not satisfactory because it did not have a sense of volume and elasticity.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same nylon 6 polymer as in Example 1, melt spinning was performed in the same manner. The spinning temperature is 250 ° C., using a die having a hollow section with a three-leaf cross section (Y type), the total fineness is 1560 dtex, the number of filaments is 96, the single fiber fineness is 16.3 dtex, Then, the yarn was formed so that the degree of deformity was 2.65. The spinning speed was 1200 m / min, the draw ratio was 2.4 times, and the drawing temperature was 195 ° C. Subsequently, the drawn yarn was continuously applied and crimped using a known jet stuffer nozzle. Continue to cool with a chill roll without winding, then stretch by applying 0.12 cN / dtex to make crimps latent, and then through the entanglement nozzle, 14 entanglements / m are applied and 2600 m / min. Winded up.

Thus, the total fineness is 1560 dtex, the number of filaments is 96, the single fiber fineness is 16.3 dtex, the deformity is 2.65, the CV is 4.17%, and the hollowness is 12%. A polyamide crimped yarn having a Y-shaped cross section with an elongation rate after boiling water treatment of 17% and an entanglement number of 14 / m was obtained.

Next, after dividing the polyamide crimped yarn into an appropriate winding weight using a rewinder, a real twist of 30 T / m is imparted in the S twist direction using a double twister, and the polyamide crimped yarn having a twist coefficient of K1184 Got. The obtained polyamide crimped yarn was used to weave an ox fabric with a warp density of 25 / inc and a weft density of 30 / 2.54 cm. The passability in the process of manufacturing the woven fabric is limited in equipment that can be manufactured, and the passability itself is not a problem, but the productivity is poor.

Next, the obtained woven fabric was finished in the same process as in Example 1. Although the obtained woven fabric had a sense of volume, it had too much elasticity and became a very hard fabric, which was unsuitable for use in women's clothing, particularly for upper clothing.

(Comparative Example 3)
Without using the polyamide crimped yarn for apparel of the present invention, the warp density using a twin yarn of a 167 dtex 36-filament nylon false twisted yarn with a single fiber cross-sectional shape (degree of irregularity 1) as the warp and weft A woven fabric having an ox structure of 77 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 yarns / 2.54 cm was woven. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained woven fabric was finished in the same process as in Example 1. The resulting woven fabric was not satisfactory because it did not have a sense of volume and elasticity, had a low lightness of 2.08, and the woven structure was not outstanding.

(Comparative Example 4)
Without using the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing of the present invention, a twin yarn of a 167 dtex 36 filament nylon false twisted yarn with a single fiber cross-sectional shape having a Y-shaped cross section (profile degree 1.48, CV 5.39) A woven fabric similar to Comparative Example 3 was woven using the weft. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained woven fabric was finished in the same process as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric was not satisfactory because it did not have a sense of volume and elasticity, had a low lightness of 2.24, and the woven structure was not outstanding.

Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the woven and knitted fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 above.

Claims

A polyamide crimped yarn for clothing which satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3) and is composed of multifilaments.
-The single fiber fineness is 1.5 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less,
(2) The total fineness is 400 dtex or more and 1500 dtex or less,
(3) The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a multi-leaf shape having 3 or more leaves, and the degree of irregularity is 1.5 or more and 5.5 or less.
The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a multi-leaf shape of three or more leaves formed radially extending from the center point of the single fiber cross-section, and the irregularity is 1.7 or more and 5.5 or less, and the variation of the irregularity is The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing according to claim 1, wherein the coefficient (CV)% is less than 7.0 and 1.0 or more.
3. The polyamide crimped yarn for clothing according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the single fiber is a hollow fiber having a hollow ratio of 5% to 25%.
The polyamide for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the elongation after boiling water treatment is 5% or more and 30% or less, and the number of entanglements is 5 / m or more and 50 / m or less. Crimped yarn.
The polyamide crimp for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a real twist is imparted and the twist coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is 300 to 35,000: yarn.
-Twisting coefficient K = T x D 1/2 (1)
T = number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D = total fineness of yarn (decitex)
A woven or knitted fabric for clothing, comprising the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 5.
The woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to claim 6, comprising at least 25% by mass of polyamide crimped yarn for clothing.
The woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the lightweight property (cm 3 / g) is 3.0 or more and 6.0 or less, and the heat retaining property (%) is 20 or more and 50 or less.
6. A polyamide crimped yarn for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 5, and a filament containing at least one fiber selected from the group consisting of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers and regenerated fibers; The woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein the knitted or knitted fabric for clothing is dyed, woven or knitted, and dyed.
[group]
Natural fiber: wool, cotton, animal hair or hemp synthetic fiber: cationic dye-dyed polyester or acrylic semi-synthetic fiber: acetate regenerated fiber: rayon or cupra
The clothing crimped yarn according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein the crimp rate of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing obtained by decomposing the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is 2.5% or more and 25% or less. Woven knitting.
A woman using the woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of claims 6 to 10, wherein the woman is a clothing selected from the group consisting of a coat, a cloak, a jacket, a skirt, a dress, and a dress. For clothes.