JP2015137443A - Woven or knitted fabric for clothing including different-color combined filament polyamide crimped yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven or knitted fabric for clothing which has a voluminous feeling and resilient feeling demanded of women's clothing materials for autumn and winter use, and which has excellent lightness in weight, excellent heat-retaining properties and a natural moire appearance.SOLUTION: A woven or knitted fabric for clothing includes at least 25 mass% of different-color combined filament polyamide crimped yarns each exhibiting a different-color effect. The different-color combined filament polyamide crimped yarns each satisfy the following requirements: (1) a single fiber fineness is 1.5 to 25 dtex; (2) a total fineness is 400 to 1,500 dtex; (3) the number of constituent filaments is 50 to 1,000; (4) polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting color effects different from each other are mixed so that the ratio of the numbers of filaments of the polyamide crimped yarns is in the range of 10:90 to 90:10; (5) the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber is a multilobar shape having three or more lobes formed so as to radially extend from the center point of a single fiber cross section, and the degree of modification is 1.5 to 5.5; and (6) the coefficient of variation (CV)% of the degree of modification of the single fiber cross section is 1.0 to 7.0.

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric for clothing. More specifically, the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric made of different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn that is particularly suitable for women's clothing, and is required to be a material for women's clothing mainly for fall / winter applications. In addition, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric for clothing that is excellent in lightness and heat retention and has a natural tone-like appearance quality characteristic, and ladies' clothing using the woven or knitted fabric for clothing.

  In recent years, yarns and knitted fabrics for garments have been proposed by pursuing materials that emphasize soft texture and high drapability, with thinner and more lightweight fabrics using polyester fibers and polyamide fibers. . In particular, medium-thick woven fabrics mainly for autumn / winter applications are developed by woven or knitted fabrics using false twisted yarns of polyester fibers or polyamide fibers, sea-island type fibers or composite split yarns. In addition, in order to express a natural tone appearance, blended yarns of polyester fibers and polyamide fibers or blended yarns of these with cationic dye-dyed polyester fibers are used. The knitted and knitted fabric used was still insufficient to reach the volume and harshness of the woolen wool material, which is the mainstay for outer applications such as coats.

  In addition, the total fineness of polyester fibers and polyamide fiber yarns developed for clothing applications is usually in the range of 22 decitex to 200 decitex, and these yarns are mixed and used by twisting. In order to obtain a voluminous feel and a natural tone appearance of the wool material, it is necessary to twist at least 3 to 4 yarns. Therefore, the production cost becomes high and it is difficult to use as a general-purpose material. there were. In addition, when false twisted yarn is used to obtain a sense of volume, it is difficult to use because there is a problem that even if a sense of volume is obtained, the texture becomes hard and rough, and it becomes too heavy for clothing. Met.

  On the other hand, as a lightweight heavyweight woven fabric, a lightweight heavyweight woven fabric using a well-shaped cross-section nylon hollow multifilament yarn with a hollowness of 5-30%, a single fiber fineness of 5 denier or more, and a total fineness of 300 denier or more has been proposed. (See Patent Document 1). In this proposal, since a lightweight, thick fabric is obtained by using a hollow shaped stretched nylon yarn of a nylon fiber and a gap between single yarns by a modified cross section and a fineness of 300 denier or more, a fabric thickness and a lightweight feeling can be obtained. It is difficult to obtain a crispness, dryness and harshness, and a bulging volume and a natural tone of woolen wool. , Was not satisfactory.

  In addition, a fabric using a mixed entangled yarn of a polyamide crimped filament and a cationic dyeable polyester filament has been proposed as a spanned coarse woven fabric (see Patent Document 2). However, in this proposal, since the total fineness range of the yarn used is 30 to 75 deniers and the fineness range used for garments so far, natural tone can be obtained. It has not yet reached a solid volume and bulge. Moreover, since the single fiber fineness is 1.5 denier or less in order to obtain a soft touch, the lightness and the heat retention are not satisfactory.

Japanese Patent No. 3321321 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-325040

As described above, the conventional technology has led to the production of woven and knitted fabrics that satisfy the voluminous and harshness required for apparel applications, particularly women's apparel applications, especially for autumn and winter, and the natural tone of woolen wool. Not in.
Therefore, in view of the background of the above-mentioned conventional technology, the object of the present invention is to reduce the manufacturing cost, to have a solid volume feeling and a firm feeling, to be excellent in lightness and heat retention, and to be characterized by a natural tone appearance quality. It is another object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric using different color mixed polyamide crimped yarns and a garment for women using the woven or knitted fabric.

  The present invention employs the following means in order to solve the above problems.

The woven or knitted fabric for clothing using the different-color mixed polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention includes at least 25% by mass of the different-color mixed-polyamide crimped yarn including the polyamide crimped yarn having multicolor properties and having different colors. The knitted or knitted fabric for clothing is characterized in that the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is a crimped yarn satisfying the following requirements (1) to (6).
(1) The single fiber fineness is 1.5 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less,
(2) The total fineness is not less than 400 dtex and not more than 1500 dtex,
(3) The number of constituent filaments is 50 or more and 1000 or less,
(4) The number of filaments of polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors is mixed in the range of 10:90 to 90:10,
(5) The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a multi-leaf shape of three or more leaves formed by extending radially from the center point of the single fiber cross-section, and the deformity is 1.5 or more and 5.5 or less,
(6) The coefficient of variation (CV)% of the degree of irregularity of the single fiber cross section is less than 7.0 and 1.0 or more.

  According to a preferred aspect of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, one of the polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different color from each other is a cationic dye dyeable polyamide crimped yarn.

  According to a preferred aspect of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the single fiber constituting at least one polyamide crimped yarn exhibiting a different color from each other has a hollow ratio of 5% or more and 25% or less. It is a thread.

According to a preferred aspect of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, a real twist is imparted to the above-mentioned different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn, and the twist coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is 300 to 35, 000 or less.
-Twist factor K = T x D ^1/2 ··· Formula (1)
T = number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D = total fineness of yarn (decitex)
According to a preferred aspect of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the elongation ratio after boiling water treatment of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is 5% or more and 30% or less, and the number of entanglements is 5 / m or more and 50 or more. Pieces / m or less.

According to the preferred embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the lightweight property (cm ³ / g) of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is 3.0 or more and 6.0 or less, and the heat retention (%) is 20 It is 50 or less.

  According to a preferred aspect of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the crimp ratio of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is 2.5% or more and 25% or less.

  In the present invention, the above-mentioned woven or knitted fabric for clothing can be used to produce a women's garment such as a coat, a cloak, a jacket, a skirt, a dress, pants and a dress, particularly preferably as intended in the present invention. .

  According to the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric for clothing composed of a different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn, which is most suitable for woven fabric and knitted fabric with a sense of volume, and a firm volume required for women's clothing materials mainly for autumn / winter use It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric for clothing having a feeling of feeling and an appropriate elasticity, excellent in lightness and heat retention, and having a natural tone-like appearance quality characteristic, and women's clothing using them.

FIG. 1 is a drawing-substituting photograph showing the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber of different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained in Example 1 of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a drawing-substituting photograph showing the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber of different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained in Example 2 of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a schematic side view showing an example of a method for producing a different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn by subjecting polyamide crimped yarns showing different colors to each other by fluid entanglement treatment according to the present invention.

  Next, the woven or knitted fabric for clothing made of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention will be described in more detail.

The woven or knitted fabric for clothing using the different-color mixed polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention includes at least 25% by mass of the different-color mixed-polyamide crimped yarn including the polyamide crimped yarn having multicolor properties and having different colors. The knitted or knitted fabric for clothing is characterized in that the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is a crimped yarn satisfying the following requirements (1) to (6).
(1) The single fiber fineness is 1.5 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less,
(2) The total fineness is not less than 400 dtex and not more than 1500 dtex,
(3) The number of constituent filaments is 50 or more and 1000 or less,
(4) The number of filaments of polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors is mixed in the range of 10:90 to 90:10,
(5) The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a multi-leaf shape of three or more leaves formed by extending radially from the center point of the single fiber cross-section, and the deformity is 1.5 or more and 5.5 or less,
(6) The coefficient of variation (CV)% of the degree of irregularity of the single fiber cross section is less than 7.0 and 1.0 or more.

  The different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn in the present invention is a mixed yarn obtained by arranging two or more types of crimped yarns having different colors from each other and tangling them, and is a bulky yarn having crimps. is there.

  In the present invention, the crimped yarn exhibiting a different color is a crimped yarn pre-colored with a pigment or a dye, or a crimped yarn having dyeability. That is, the different color mixed crimped yarn in the present invention is a blend obtained by concentrating two or more types of crimped yarns that are different in color tone or that may be different in color tone by subsequent processing such as dyeing. It is a bulky yarn that is a fine yarn and has crimps.

  Examples of combinations of crimped yarns that exhibit different color from each other include a mixture of two or more types of crimped yarns that have been colored in advance with a pigment or a dye, or a mixture of two or more types of crimped yarns that have dyeability. Alternatively, one or more types of crimped yarns pre-colored with a dye and one or more types of crimped yarns having dyeability may be considered.

  The pigment may be either organic or inorganic, but generally carbon black, bengara, or phthalocyanine pigments are used.

Examples of the yarn having dyeability include, for example, a polyamide fiber, an ordinary polyamide, a polyamide having an increased amount of amino end groups (—NH ₂ ) bonded to an acid dye, and a sulfo end group bonded to a basic dye. Polyamide introduced with (—SO ₃ ) may be mentioned.

  The different color mixed crimped yarn of the present invention shows a different color even if it is not dyed when the crimped yarn constituting it is previously colored with a pigment or a dye, and the crimped yarn constituting it is a potential If the dye has dyeability, the dyeing will eventually show a discoloration.

  It is important that the woven or knitted fabric for clothing comprising the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention contains at least 25% by mass of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn. The content of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is preferably 25% by mass or more and less than 75% by mass, and more preferably 75% by mass or more and 100% by mass or less. When the proportion of the differently colored mixed polyamide crimped yarn in the entire woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is less than 25% by mass, in addition to the volume and harshness that are the effects of the present invention, and the functionality of lightness and heat retention, It is difficult to obtain a characteristic of a woolen wool-like natural tone appearance, and the proportion of the polyamide crimped yarn for clothing in the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention is selected in the range of up to 100% by mass.

  The different color mixed-polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention has a single fiber fineness of 1.5 dtex to 25 dtex, preferably 1.5 dtex to 20 dtex, and more preferably 1.5 dtex to 15 dtex. Less than decitex.

  If the single fiber fineness is less than 1.5 decitec, a soft texture can be obtained, but the voids between the single fibers are reduced, making it difficult to obtain a volume feeling. In addition, if the single fiber fineness exceeds 25 dtex, the fabric thickness can be obtained, but not only does it not provide a firm and voluminous sense of volume, but also the appropriate harshness and texture required for clothing. In apparel applications, it can cause damage to the skin of women, inner garments and inner garments due to irritation such as friction, and poor appearance.

  The total fineness of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention is 400 dtex or more and 1500 dtex or less, preferably 400 dtex or more and 1200 dtex or less, and more preferably 800 dtex or more and 1100 dtex or less.

  When the total fineness is less than 400 dtex, it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, and in order to obtain a volume feeling, a process of twisting at least three yarns is required, which increases the manufacturing cost and is economical. Also, it is not preferable. Further, when the total fineness exceeds 1500 dtex, not only the texture becomes hard, but also in the process of twisting, warping, weaving, knitting and the like for producing a woven or knitted fabric for garments, it is generally used and the process passability is lowered. In a facility for producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, the woven or knitted fabric itself may not be manufactured.

  The number of constituent filaments of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention is 50 or more and 1000 or less, preferably 60 or more and 800 or less. When the number of constituent filaments is less than 50, it is difficult to obtain a natural gradation appearance, which is one of the objects of the present invention. When the number of constituent filaments exceeds 1000, it becomes difficult to obtain a solid volume feeling and a firm feeling required as clothing materials.

  The different color mixed polyamide crimped yarns used in the present invention are mixed in a range of 10:90 to 90:10 filaments of polyamide crimped yarns having different colors. More preferably, it is the range of 30: 70-70: 30. When the number of filaments on one side of the polyamide crimped yarn exhibiting the discoloration is less than 10 or more than 90, it is difficult to obtain a natural tone appearance, which is one of the objects of the present invention.

  The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention is a multi-leaf shape of three or more leaves formed radially extending from the center point of the single fiber cross section, and the degree of deformity is 1. It is 5 or more and 5.5 or less, and the coefficient of variation (CV)% of the irregularity is less than 7.0 and 1.0 or more.

  Specific examples of the shape of three or more leaves are a Y shape, a cross shape, and an X cross section. Among them, a Y cross section is preferably used from the viewpoint of balance between texture and volume feeling.

  More preferably, the multileaf shape is a three-leaf or four-leaf shape, and the degree of irregularity is 2.0 or more and 4.0 or less. The multileaf shape is particularly preferably a three-leaf Y-shaped cross-sectional shape, and the degree of irregularity is 2.0 or more and 3.0 or less. If the multi-leaf shape is less than 3 leaves, it becomes difficult for voids between the single fibers to appear, and it becomes difficult to obtain a volume feeling. In addition, when the multi-leaf shape is not a multi-leaf shape formed by extending radially from the center point of the single fiber cross section, the appearance quality of the woven or knitted fabric is easily irritated, resulting in a lack of luxury.

  On the other hand, if the degree of deformity is less than 1.5, voids between single fibers are hardly expressed, and it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling. On the other hand, if the degree of deformity exceeds 5.5, the texture becomes hard and the sharpness becomes too strong, and it may cause irritation to the skin at the time of wearing and poor appearance due to friction to other clothes.

  The coefficient of variation (CV) of the degree of irregularity is 1.0% or more and less than 7.0%, preferably 1.0% or more and 5.5% or less. An unusually mixed polyamide crimped yarn having a CV of less than 1% is in a state in which there is almost no irregularity variation between single fibers, but is substantially difficult to produce. Further, if the CV exceeds 7.0%, the variation in the degree of irregularity between the single fibers is large. Therefore, the single fibers having a relatively small degree of irregularity are arranged between the single fibers having a relatively large degree of irregularity. It is difficult to obtain a gap between them, and it is difficult to obtain a firm and voluminous feeling of swelling and an appropriate harshness and texture required for autumn / winter clothing applications.

  According to the study by the inventors, it has been confirmed that the false twisted yarn having a high degree of deformity has a high CV, and this is because the false twist is imparted under strong conditions simultaneously with heat and twist. In this processing step, it is considered that the cross-sectional deformation due to the stress applied to the single fiber is different between the single fibers.

In addition, a false twisted yarn having an irregularity of less than 1.5 can yield a crimped yarn having a CV of less than 5.5.
It becomes difficult to develop voids between single fibers, making it difficult to obtain a volume feeling.

  In the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention, it is preferable that one of the mixed polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors is a cationic dye dyeable polyamide crimped yarn. More preferably, a cationic dyeable dyed polyamide crimped yarn and a normal acid dyeable dyeable polyamide crimped yarn are mixed. The ratio of the mixed polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors is in the range of 10:90 to 90:10. Preferably, it is the range of 30: 70-70: 30. When the ratio of the mixed polyamide crimped yarns having different color characteristics is out of the range of 10:90 to 90:10, a natural appearance gradation cannot be obtained.

  In the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention, the single yarn fiber constituting at least one of the polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors may have a hollowness of 5% or more and 25% or less. preferable. By adopting a hollow fiber (hollow fiber) having a hollow cross section, a lighter volume feeling can be obtained. A more preferable hollow ratio is 5% to 15%. When the hollow ratio is less than 5%, it is difficult to obtain light weight. On the other hand, if the hollow ratio exceeds 25%, the production of crimped yarns tends to cause the spinning performance and the collapse of the hollow cross section when crimped. One or a plurality of hollow portions may be present in a cross section perpendicular to the fiber length of the single fiber, but the total of the hollow ratios is preferably 5 to 25%.

The different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention is preferably provided with a real twist, and the twist coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is preferably 300 or more and 35,000 or less.
-Twist factor K = T x D ^1/2 Formula (1)
However,
T = number of twists per meter of yarn length,
D = total fineness of the yarn (decitex).

  The twist coefficient (K) is more preferably 600 or more and 32,000 or less, and still more preferably 800 or more and 28,000 or less. When the twist coefficient (K) is less than 300, a feeling of swelling can be obtained, but there may be cases where fluff is likely to occur in the warping process used for warp, especially in the process passability when producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing. . On the other hand, if the twist coefficient (K) exceeds 35,000, the convergence is too high and it is difficult to obtain a sense of volume, and there is a tendency that the sharpness and dryness are too strong. It becomes difficult to obtain gradation. By imparting a real twist with a twisting coefficient (K) of 600 or more and 32,000 or less, not only the process passability when producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing is improved, but also the moderately mixed mixed polyamide crimped yarn is suitable. With the excellent convergence and untwisting torque, it is possible to maximize the volume and swelling feelings of the present invention, and to obtain excellent lightness and heat retention.

  Moreover, about the provision method of a real twist, the down twister, the double twister, etc. which are normally used by the garment use can be used. In addition, when there is a problem such as chatter in process passability, there is no problem even if a steam set or the like is implemented as a twist set after timely twisting.

  The different-color mixed-polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention preferably has an elongation percentage after boiling water treatment of 5% or more and 30% or less, and more preferably 8% or more and 30% or less. When the elongation rate after the boiling water treatment is less than 5%, the volume feeling and the swelling feeling may be lowered. In addition, a crimped yarn having an elongation rate of more than 30% after boiling water treatment can be crimped by a false twisting machine using a pin or a belt, but the cross-section of the raw yarn becomes crushed, gloss unevenness and There is a tendency to cause appearance defects such as irritation.

  In addition, the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention preferably has an entanglement number of 5 / m or more and 50 / m or less. The number of entanglement is more preferably 10 pieces / m or more and 40 pieces / m or less, and still more preferably 10 pieces / m or more and 20 pieces / m or less. When the number of entanglements is less than 5 / m, fluff is likely to occur in the processes such as twisting, warping, weaving and knitting for producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, and the process passability may be significantly reduced. Further, when the number of entanglements exceeds 50 / m, the process passability when producing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing is good, but the convergence between single fibers is high and the gaps are reduced, making it difficult to obtain a sense of volume. Tend.

In the production of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention, nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 610, nylon 56, etc. can be used as the polymer (polyamide) to be used, and exhibit different color. Nylon includes a polyamide having a sulfo end group (—SO ₃ ) bonded to a basic dye. In particular, polyamide made of nylon 6 or nylon 66 is preferably used.

  Further, the polymer (polyamide) may contain a copolymerization component as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Examples of the copolymer component include ε-capramide, tetramethylene adipamide, hexamethylene sebacamide, tetramethylene isophthalamide, and tetramethylene terephthalamide.

  Moreover, matting agents, such as a titanium oxide, can be mix | blended with a polymer (polyamide).

  The basic process for producing the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the present invention is a polyamide knot obtained by a crimped yarn production process comprising ordinary melt spinning, cooling, oiling, drawing and crimping processes and showing different colors. The crimped yarn is subjected to a fluid entanglement treatment step or a twisted yarn treatment as shown in FIG.

  The melt spinning apparatus used in the present invention can be used in both an extruder-type spinning machine and a pressure melter-type spinning machine, but an extruder-type spinning machine is preferably used in terms of product uniformity and yarn production yield. . When a matting agent is added, a master chip to which a matting agent is added at a high concentration and a chip blended with a polyamide chip can be put into a spinning machine, and each chip is weighed directly above the spinning machine. It can also be thrown in. Further, the matting agent can be directly put into the spinning machine in a powder or liquid state.

  In order to satisfy the specific total fineness, single fiber fineness, cross-sectional shape, etc. of such different-color mixed polyamide crimped yarn, the spinning conditions such as polyamide viscosity, spinning temperature, die hole shape, discharge rate and cooling are set appropriately. And melt spinning.

  The melt-spun yarn is cooled and solidified by cold air, and after an oil agent is applied, the yarn is wound around a take-up roller that rotates at a predetermined take-up speed and taken up. The take-up speed is preferably 300 to 1500 m / min. The drawn yarn is usually continuously stretched and crimped continuously. As another method, a method of once winding with an undrawn yarn and then drawing and crimping in another step, or a method of winding the drawn yarn once and then carrying out crimping in another step is also possible. is there.

In order for the different-color mixed fiber polyamide crimped yarn according to the present invention to have an elongation rate after boiling water treatment of 5% or more and 30% or less, the molecular chain orientation should be sufficiently increased in the drawing process before crimping. Is preferred. The draw ratio is preferably in the range of 2.0 to 4.0 times, and is preferably drawn so that the elongation is 30 to 100%. Next, the drawn yarn is subjected to a crimping process through a crimping device. Crimping is performed by heated fluid processing such as saturated steam, superheated steam or heated air. As the crimping apparatus, for example, a crimping nozzle apparatus disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2004-84080 can be used. Normally, crimping is performed by a jet nozzle method having the crimping nozzle, and a high-temperature high-temperature fluid such as superheated steam or heated air is brought into contact with the yarn passing through the needle from the surroundings and released into the atmosphere for cooling. In addition, for the purpose of fixing the crimps, cold air is blown on the crimped yarns that have passed through the crimping nozzles, or the crimped yarns are deposited on the surface of the rotary filter that sucks them inside. A cooling method or the like can also be employed.

  The temperature of the crimp nozzle when crimping is preferably 190 to 250 ° C, more preferably 210 to 240 ° C. When the temperature of the crimp nozzle is less than 190 ° C., the heat treatment is insufficient, so that the crimp cannot be imparted sufficiently. On the other hand, when the temperature of the crimp nozzle exceeds 250 ° C., the heat treatment becomes excessive, the polymer is fused or deteriorated, and the physical properties (strength, elongation and elongation rate) of the crimp yarn may be lowered.

  Appropriate stretch is applied to the crimped polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors to make the crimps partially latent, and then a fluid entanglement treatment step is performed to impart converging properties. A polyamide crimped yarn is obtained.

  FIG. 3 shows an example of a mixed yarn mixing method by fluid entanglement processing. The polyamide crimped yarns having different colors mixed with each other are unwound and taken up by the first roller c. Next, the crimped yarns are combined, mixed and wound by an entangled air guide d disposed between the first roller c and the second roller e to obtain a different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn.

The woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention preferably has a lightness (cm ³ / g) of 3.0 or more and 6.0 or less and a heat retention (%) of 20 or more and 50 or less. When the lightness is less than 3.0, it is difficult to obtain a volume feeling, which is one of the objects of the present invention, and polyester fibers and polyamide fibers having a fineness range of 22 decitex to 200 decitex that have been developed for clothing are conventionally used. This is a range that can be achieved with a woven or knitted fabric, and is insufficient in lightness. In addition, when the lightness exceeds 6.0, in addition to the voluminous feel, it is possible to obtain a material that is excellent in both lightness and heat retention required for autumn / winter materials. Difficult and practically difficult to manufacture. In addition, lack of firmness, poor fabric slip resistance resistance and fabric fraying are likely to occur.

  In addition, if the heat retention is less than 20%, it is difficult to say that it is required for autumn / winter applications, and it is within the range that can be achieved with woven and knitted fabrics of 22 decitex to 200 decitex polyester fibers and polyamide fibers that have been developed for garments. is there. On the other hand, if the heat retention exceeds 50%, it is difficult to obtain light weight, and it is necessary to make it very thick, so that it is substantially difficult to manufacture.

  The woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention can contain other fibers in addition to the different-color mixed fiber polyamide crimped yarn as long as it contains at least 25% by mass of the different-color mixed fiber polyamide crimped yarn described above. Other fibers include polyester filament raw or false twisted yarn, nylon filament raw or false twisted yarn, spun yarn synthetic fiber, acetate filament yarn semi-synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber such as rayon filament or span yarn, Examples include wool and natural fibers such as cotton and hemp. Examples of the form of the other fibers include other fibers alone, or knitting and weaving with blended fibers, blended fibers, and twisted ones.

  As the form of the woven fabric, the above-described different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is used for at least warp and / or weft, and it is necessary to contain 25% by mass or more of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn. It is. As a woven fabric structure, if it is a known woven fabric structure such as plain weave, twill weave, satin, ripple, amundsen, flat double, and twill double, a natural woolen appearance characteristic of woolen wool can be obtained.

  Further, in the form of the knitted fabric, examples of the knitted fabric include warp knitted fabrics such as a half structure and a denby structure, and circular knitted fabric structures such as a punched structure, a mockroded structure, a tentacle structure, and a milling structure. In particular, a circular knitted fabric is knitted with excellent volume and harshness, light weight, and excellent natural tone appearance due to the effects of the voids of the knitting structure and the different colored mixed polyamide crimped yarn.

  Further, the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn used in the garment knitted fabric of the present invention is a range in which the volume feeling and the harshness that are the characteristics of the present invention are not inhibited, and the processability during the production of the woven or knitted fabric is not a problem. If it is, it can be used even in a non-twisted state. In order to maximize the volume and swelling feeling, it is preferable that the twist coefficient (K) of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is in the range of 300 to 35,000 as described above.

  In the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, the crimp ratio of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing the woven or knitted fabric is preferably 2.5% or more and 25% or less. The crimp rate is more preferably 3% or more and 20% or less. When the crimp ratio of the dissimilar mixed-polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposition is less than 2.5%, it is difficult to obtain a swelled volume feeling, and when the crimp ratio exceeds 25%, the feeling of wiping increases. , It will be difficult to obtain a moderate feeling of elasticity. Moreover, when it is used as a garment, the fabric does not recover in the stretched state, and a soft phenomenon is likely to occur.

  In the production of the woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention, a scouring, relaxing, drying and dry heat set, which is a normal process of woven or knitted fabric, is applied to a raw machine woven or knitted containing at least 25% by mass of a different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn. After doing, known methods commonly applied in dyeing, drying and finishing are applied.

  Depending on other fibers used for knitting and weaving, generally known processing methods such as mercerization, shrinkage, enzyme weight loss, and alkali weight loss can be applied. In addition, in order to obtain a more excellent volume feeling and harsh feeling, a process of shrinking the polyamide fiber by heat treatment using a treatment liquid containing benzyl alcohol can be applied. Furthermore, if necessary, finishing resin processing such as flexibility, water repellency, antifouling, antibacterial and antistatic can be performed within the scope of achieving the object of the present invention.

  The woven or knitted fabric for clothing of the present invention thus obtained can be suitably used as, for example, women's clothing for upper clothing selected from coats, cloaks, jackets, skirts, dresses, pants and dresses. Since it has particular visual features, it can be used more suitably in coats, jackets, etc. that are used as layering in autumn / winter applications and are preferred to be used on the outermost side.

  Next, the woven or knitted fabric for clothing comprising the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Each characteristic value shown in the above description and in the examples is measured by the following method.

(1) Total fineness:
JIS L1013 (2010) 8.3.1 b) The positive fineness specified in the B method was measured and used as the total fineness.

(2) Single fiber fineness:
The total fineness of each of the polyamide crimped yarns showing the different color from each other constituting the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn was obtained by dividing by the number of each filament.

(3) Elongation rate after boiling water treatment:
The different colored mixed polyamide crimped yarn was taken in a skein shape and allowed to stand for 3 hours in a room at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH to be shrunk. Subsequently, it was immersed in boiling water for 20 minutes to perform boiling water treatment. The skeined yarn treated with boiling water was left to dry in the room for 12 hours. Next, the yarn was cut to a length of about 1 m, and assuming that the total fineness of the yarn was A (dtex), an initial load of 17.7 A (μN) (1.8 A (mg)) was applied for 30 seconds. The length L1 of the subsequent yarn was first measured.

Next, the length L2 of the yarn after applying a constant load of 883 A (μN) (90 A (mg)) for 30 seconds was measured. The elongation G (%) after boiling water treatment in the present invention was determined from the following equation (2) from the above L1 and L2. The elongation after the boiling water treatment was determined from the average value of 5 samples.
G = {(L2−L1) / L1} × 100 (%) (2)

(4) Number of confounding:
About the number of entanglement of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn, the number of entanglement per 1 m was measured visually. Measurement was performed five times in the longitudinal direction of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn, and the average value was obtained. Or, the different colored mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is applied with a real twist. After removing the real twist using an untwisting machine, it is visually observed per 50 cm. The number of confounding was measured. It measured 5 times in the longitudinal direction of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn after untwisting, and calculated | required from the average value of the numerical value converted per 1 m.

(5) Deformity:
The ends of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarns wrapped with rayon staples are passed through a hole (hole diameter: 1.0 mm) in a stainless steel preparation with a thickness of 0.5 mm and parallel along both sides of the preparation with a safety razor. A sample cut into a cross section was used as a sample for cross-sectional observation. This sample was observed at 500 times using a digital microscope “VHX-500” manufactured by KEYENCE, and from the diameter D of the circumscribed circle of the cross section of the single fiber and the diameter d of the inscribed circle of the cross section of the single fiber. The degree of irregularity was determined by the following equation (3). The degree of profile was determined from the average value of 10 samples. The circumscribed circle here means the smallest circle including the cross section of the single fiber inside, and the inscribed circle here means the cross section of the single fiber (in the case of hollow fiber, it is hollow. Part is also included in the cross section of the single fiber).

In the case where the different degrees of irregularity of the differently-colored mixed polyamide crimped yarns showing different colorities from each other, the degree of irregularity was calculated from the average value of 10 samples.
Deformation degree = D / d Equation (3).

(6) Hollow ratio:
The ends of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarns wrapped with rayon staples are passed through a hole (hole diameter: 1.0 mm) in a stainless steel preparation with a thickness of 0.5 mm and parallel along both sides of the preparation with a safety razor. A sample cut into two was used as a sample for cross-sectional observation. This sample was observed 500 times using a digital microscope “VHX-500” manufactured by KEYENCE, and the area measurement function was used to calculate the cross-sectional area S of the fiber including the hollow part and the area s of the hollow part according to the following formula (4). The hollow ratio was determined. The hollow ratio was determined from the average value of 10 samples.
・ Hollow rate = (s / S) × 100 (%) Expression (4)
(7) Twist factor:
The different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn or the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn that can be decomposed from the woven or knitted fabric for clothing is calculated from the number T of twists per meter calculated by the untwisting machine and the total fineness D of (1) above. The twist coefficient K was determined by the following formula (1). The twist coefficient was determined from the average value of 10 samples.
-Twist factor K = T x D ^1/2 Formula (1)
T = Number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D = Total fineness of yarn (decitex).

(8) Crimp rate:
Measured according to the method of yarn weaving rate B defined in JIS L1096 (2010), the initial load is 0.002 cN / dtex, and the constant load is 0.11 cN / dtex, obtained from the following equation (5). The numerical value obtained was used as the crimp rate. The crimp rate was determined from the average value of 3 samples of 20 cm.
-Crimp rate (%) = (Length at constant load-Length at initial load) / (Length at initial load) x 100 (5)
(9) Variability coefficient of variation (CV):
Except that the number of samples is all monofilaments, measurement is performed in accordance with the method for measuring the degree of deformity in the above item (5), and from the standard deviation σ and average value μ of the degree of deformity of the obtained all single fibers, The coefficient of variation (CV) was determined by the following equation (6). When the deformed degrees of the differently colored mixed polyamide crimped yarns differing from each other in the degree of deformation of the polyamide crimped yarns showing different colors, the total number of single fibers was determined as the number of samples.
CV = (σ / μ) × 100 (%) (6)
(10) Volume feeling:
As for the volume feeling, the following sensory judgments were made by five texture judgment persons, and ○ was accepted.
○: Solid volume feeling Δ: Volume feeling is insufficient and insufficient ×: Defect without volume feeling

(11) Harshness:
As for the texture of the harshness, the following sensory determinations were made by five texture determiners, and ○ was accepted.
◯: Appropriate harshness and good △: Harshness is insufficient and insufficient ×: No harshness or too much, poor.

(12) Natural tone appearance quality:
As for the appearance quality of tone, the following visual judgment was made on a fabric inspection machine, and ○ was accepted.
○: Natural tone appearance Δ: Inadequate feeling of dullness ×: Inferiority without feeling of dullness

(13) Weight per unit:
The basis weight was measured using the mass A method per unit area in the standard state defined in JIS L1096 (2010).

(14) Thickness:
The thickness was measured using the method of the thickness A method defined in JIS L1096 (2010).

(15) Lightweight:
Using the bulkiness method defined in JIS L1096 (2010), the measured numerical value was defined as lightweight.

(16) Thermal insulation:
The value obtained by the heat retention rate A method defined in JISL1096 (2010) was defined as heat retention (%).

(17) Productivity / processability:
Judging from the occurrence of yarn breakage and fluffing in the raw machine productivity and processability of knitted and knitted fabrics, ○ was passed. ○: Good splitting, twisting, warping, weaving, and knitting are all good, productivity △: There is a slight fluff or yarn breakage problem in the process of splitting, twisting, warping, weaving, and knitting, and production is slightly poor ×: In the process of splitting, twisting, warping, weaving, knitting Fluff and thread breakage occur, resulting in poor or poor productivity.

Example 1
A nylon 6 chip having a relative viscosity of sulfuric acid of 2.8 and 0.13% by mass of titanium oxide was melt-spun using an extruder-type spinning machine. The spinning temperature is 250 ° C., using a die having a hole for a three-leaf cross section (Y type), the total fineness is 450 dtex, the number of filaments is 180, the single fiber fineness is 2.5 dtex, and the deformity is 2 .15 was produced. The spinning speed was 1200 m / min, the stretching ratio was 2.4 times, and the stretching temperature was 195 ° C. Next, the obtained drawn yarn was continuously crimped using a known jet stuffer nozzle. Subsequently, after cooling with a cooling roll without winding up the obtained yarn, it was stretched by applying a tension of 0.12 cN / dtex, and the crimp was made latent and wound up, and the acid-dye-dyed polyamide crimp I got a thread.

  Separately, a cationic dye-dyed nylon 6 chip having a relative viscosity of sulfuric acid of 2.8, containing 0.13% by mass of titanium oxide, and copolymerized with sodium sulfonate was treated in the same manner as above with a three-leaf cross section (Y Using a die having holes for molds, yarns were produced so that the total fineness was 450 dtex, the number of filaments was 180, the single fiber fineness was 2.5 dtex, and the deformity was 2.15. Next, the obtained drawn yarn was continuously crimped using a known jet stuffer nozzle. Subsequently, after cooling with a cooling roll without winding up the obtained yarn, it was stretched by applying a tension of 0.12 cN / dtex, and the crimp was made latent and wound up. I got a thread. Next, the acid-dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn and the cationic dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn obtained as described above are unwound and aligned, and through a entanglement step, a mixed yarn is mixed by fluid entanglement treatment. A piece / m entangled was applied and wound at 2600 m / min.

  In this way, the total fineness is 900 dtex, the number of filaments is 360, the single fiber fineness is 2.5 dtex, the deformity is 2.15, the CV is 5.35%, and the Y-shaped cross sections are different from each other. A polyamide crimped yarn having a different number of filaments in a range of 50:50, a stretch ratio after boiling water treatment of 9.3%, and a tangle of 12 / m was obtained. The cross section of the single fiber of the obtained different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is shown in FIG.

  Next, after splitting the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn into about 5 kg winding mass using a rewinder, a double twister machine was used to give a real twist of 100 T / m in the S twist direction, and the twist coefficient K was 3000 A different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

  Using the different colored mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained, using the different colored mixed polyamide crimped yarn with a twist of 100 T / m as the warp, and using the non-twisted different colored mixed polyamide crimped yarn as the weft, the warp A woven fabric using 100% by mass of polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having a density of 31 yarns / 2.54 cm and an weft density of 35 yarns / 2.54 cm was woven. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained raw machine is passed through each process of scouring, relaxing and dry heat setting, which are normal processes for fabrics, and then dyed with a liquid dyeing machine using an acid dye and a cationic dye, and then dried with a dry heat set. A woven fabric for clothing made of finished, different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

  The crimped rate of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from the obtained woven fabric for clothing is 11.6%, and the obtained woven fabric has a lightweight property of 3.13 and a heat retention property of It was a good woven fabric suitable for women's apparel use, especially upper clothing, characterized by a good volume feeling and moderate elasticity, and a natural tone-quality appearance.

(Example 2)
In the same manner as in Example 1, melt spinning was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 using nylon 6 polymers having different colors. The spinning temperature is 250 ° C., using a die having a hole for a three-leaf cross section (Y type) hollow cross section, the total fineness is 470 dtex, the number of filaments is 34, the single fiber fineness is 13.8 dtex, and the degree of profile Was made to be 2.65. The spinning speed was 1200 m / min, the stretching ratio was 2.4 times, and the stretching temperature was 195 ° C. Next, the obtained drawn yarn was continuously crimped using a known jet stuffer nozzle. Subsequently, after cooling with a cooling roll without winding up the obtained yarn, it was stretched by applying a tension of 0.12 cN / dtex, latently crimped, and an acid dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn and a cation. Each dye-dyeable polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

  Next, the obtained acid dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn and cationic dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn are unwound and aligned, entangled, and mixed yarn by fluid entanglement treatment, 14 pieces / m Was wound up at a speed of 2600 m / min.

  In this way, a Y-shaped cross section having a total fineness of 940 dtex, 68 filaments, single fiber fineness of 13.8 dtex, deformity of 2.65, CV of 4.16%, and hollowness of 12% Polyamide crimped yarns having a different number of different colors and a polyamide number crimped yarn having a filament number range of 50:50, an elongation rate after boiling water treatment of 17.0%, and an entanglement number of 14 / m were obtained. The cross section of the single fiber of the obtained different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn is shown in FIG.

  Next, in the same manner as in Example 1, after splitting, an actual twist of 200 T / m was applied in the S twist direction to obtain a different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn having a twist coefficient K of 6132. The obtained different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn was used as a warp and weft, and an odd color mixed polyamide polyamide crimped yarn having an ox structure with a warp density of 24 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 35 / 2.54 cm was used. The woven fabric used in mass% was woven. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good.

  Subsequently, the obtained raw machine was processed in the normal process of the same fabric as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric for clothing made of different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn. The crimp ratio of the garment polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from the obtained woven fabric is 6.8%, and the obtained woven fabric has a light weight of 4.71 and a heat retention of 23.7%. It was a good woven fabric suitable for women's apparel use, especially for upper apparel, with a solid volume and moderate elasticity, a natural tone and appearance.

(Example 3)
The total fineness obtained in Example 1 is 450 dtex, the number of filaments is 180, the single fiber fineness is 2.5 dtex, the deformity is 2.15, the CV is 5.35%, and an acid dye having a Y-shaped cross section is acceptable. Dyed polyamide crimped yarn and the total fineness obtained in Example 2 is 470 dtex, the number of filaments is 34, the single fiber fineness is 13.8 dtex, the degree of deformity is 2.65, and the CV is 4.16%. , Using a polyamide crimped yarn dyed with a cationic dye having a Y-shaped cross section with a hollowness of 12%, unwinding and entanglement in the same manner as in Example 1, entangled, and mixed yarn by fluid entanglement treatment, Twelve pieces / m was entangled and wound up at 2600 m / min.

  In this way, the total fineness is 920 dtex, the number of filaments is 214, the range of the number of filaments of the polyamide crimped yarn showing discoloration is 84:16, the elongation after boiling water treatment is 10.6%, the number of entanglements Of 12 / m 2 was obtained.

  Using an uncolored mixed-polyamide crimped yarn in an untwisted state and a blended yarn of hair No. 2/52 consisting of 60% by mass of acrylic fiber and 40% by mass of rayon, using a 12G single circular knitting machine, A knitted fabric using 50% by mass of polyamide crimped yarn for clothing was knitted. The permeability in the process of producing the knitted fabric was good.

  Next, the obtained raw machine is passed through each process of relaxation and dry heat setting, which is a normal process of knitting, and then dyed with a liquid dyeing machine using acid dye and cationic dye, dried and set with dry heat, flexible A knitted fabric for clothing consisting of different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

  The crimped ratio of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from the obtained knitted fabric is 14.7%. The obtained knitted fabric has a light weight of 4.94 and a heat retention of 30. The knitted fabric had a solid volume feeling and moderate elasticity, was very light and had a natural tone, and was suitable for use in women's clothing, particularly for upper clothing.

Example 4
Using the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained in Example 2, an actual twist of 300 T / m was applied in the S twist direction so that the twist coefficient K was 9198. Next, the different color mixed-polyamide crimped yarn obtained was used as a warp, and the weft was a blended yarn of hair No. 2/52 consisting of 60% by mass of acrylic fiber and 40% by mass of rayon, and 10 filaments with a total fineness of 33 dtex. Nylon false twisted yarn was used, and 60% by mass of dissimilar mixed-polyamide crimped yarn having a bonded twill double structure with a warp density of 61 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 / 2.54 cm was used. Woven fabric. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained raw machine is subjected to the steps of scouring, relaxing and dry heat setting, which are normal processes of the fabric, dyed with a liquid dyeing machine using an acid dye, a cationic dye and a direct dye, and then dried. Finished by dry heat setting to obtain a woven fabric for clothing using a different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn.

  The crimped ratio of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing from the obtained woven fabric for clothing is 7.1%, and the obtained woven fabric has a light weight of 4.03 and a heat retention of 28. It was a woven fabric suitable for women's apparel use, especially upper clothing, with a solid volume and moderate elasticity, natural tone and appearance.

  Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the woven and knitted fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 4 above.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using the same nylon 6 polymer as in Example 1, each was melt spun in the same manner as in Example 1. The spinning temperature is 250 ° C., using a die having a hole for a three-leaf cross section (Y type), the total fineness is 450 dtex, the number of filaments is 350, the single fiber fineness is 1.29 dtex, and the deformity is 1 Except that the yarns were each made to be .45, stretching, crimping and winding were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain polyamide crimped yarns dyeable with acid dyes and polyamide crimped yarns dyed with cationic dyes. I got each. Next, the obtained acid dyeable polyamide crimped yarn and cationic dyeable polyamide crimped yarn are unwound and aligned, entangled, and mixed yarn by fluid entanglement treatment, 8 pieces / m Was wound up at a speed of 2600 m / min.

  In this way, the total fineness is 900 dtex, the number of filaments is 700, the single fiber fineness is 1.29 dtex, the deformity is 1.45, the CV is 5.11%, the Y-type cross section, after the boiling water treatment A polyamide crimped yarn having an elongation rate of 3.2% and an entanglement number of 8 / m was obtained. After the obtained polyamide crimped yarn was divided and actually twisted in the same manner as in Example 1, a woven fabric having the same density and structure as in Example 1 was obtained. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained woven fabric was finished in the same process as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric was not satisfactory because it did not have a sense of volume and elasticity.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same nylon 6 polymer as in Example 1, each was melt spun in the same manner as in Example 1. The spinning temperature is 250 ° C., using a die having a hollow section with a three-leaf cross section (Y type), the total fineness is 780 dtex, the number of filaments is 48, the single fiber fineness is 16.3 dtex, and an irregular shape Except that each yarn was produced so as to have a degree of 2.65, stretching, crimping and winding were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, and a polyamide crimped yarn dyed with an acid dye and a polyamide yarn dyed with a cationic dye. Each crimp was obtained. Next, the obtained acid dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn and cationic dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn are unwound and aligned, entangled, and mixed yarn by fluid entanglement treatment, 14 pieces / m Was wound up at a speed of 2600 m / min.

  Thus, a Y-shaped cross section with a total fineness of 1560 dtex, 96 filaments, single fiber fineness of 16.3 dtex, deformity of 2.65, CV of 4.17% and hollowness of 12% A polyamide crimped yarn having an elongation rate of 17% after boiling water treatment and an entanglement number of 14 / m was obtained.

  Next, after the polyamide crimped yarn is divided into about 5 kg winding mass using a rewinder, a real twist of 30 T / m is applied in the S twist direction using a double twister, and the polyamide crimp is 1184 with a twist coefficient K of 1184 I got a thread. The polyamide crimped yarn thus obtained was used to weave an ox fabric with a warp density of 25 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 30 / 2.54 cm. The passability in the process of manufacturing the woven fabric is limited in equipment that can be manufactured, and the passability itself is not a problem, but the productivity is poor. Next, the obtained woven fabric was finished in the same process as in Example 1.

  Although the obtained woven fabric had a sense of volume, it had too much elasticity and became a very hard fabric, which was unsuitable for use in women's clothing, particularly for upper clothing.

(Comparative Example 3)
An acid dye-dyed polyamide crimped yarn having a total fineness of 450 dtex, a filament count of 350, a single fiber fineness of 1.29 dtex, and an irregularity of 1.45 obtained in Comparative Example 1, and Example 2 As in Example 1, using a polyamide crimped yarn dyed with a cationic dye having a total fineness of 470 dtex, a filament number of 34, a single fiber fineness of 13.8 dtex, and an irregularity of 2.65 Then, the fibers were aligned, entangled, mixed with the yarn by fluid entanglement treatment, entangled at 12 pieces / m, and wound at a speed of 2600 m / min.

  In this way, the total fineness is 920 dtex, the number of filaments is 384, the range of the number of polyamide crimped yarns showing different colors is 91: 9, the elongation after boiling water treatment is 8.8%, the number of entanglements Of 12 / m 2 was obtained.

  Next, using the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, using the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn having a twist number of 100 T / m for the warp, and the untwisted different color mixed fiber for the weft. Using a polyamide crimped yarn, a woven fabric using 100% by mass of a polyamide crimped yarn for clothing having a warp density of 31 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 35 yarns / 2.54 cm was woven. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained raw machine is passed through the scouring, relaxation, and dry heat set processes, which are normal processes for fabrics, and then dyed with a liquid dyeing machine using an acid dye and a cationic dye, followed by drying and dry heat setting. Thus, a woven fabric for clothing made of different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn was obtained.

  The crimp ratio of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposition from the obtained woven fabric is 9.4%, and the obtained woven fabric has a light weight of 2.53 and a heat retention of 19.2. Therefore, the volume and moderate tension were insufficient, and the appearance of tone quality was not satisfactory.

(Comparative Example 4)
Nylon false twisted yarn of 36 filaments with a total fineness of 167 decitex with a Y-shaped cross section (difference degree 1.48, CV 5.39) without using the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn of the present invention A woven fabric similar to that of Comparative Example 3 was woven using the two yarns as warp and weft. The permeability in the process for producing the woven fabric was good. Next, the obtained woven fabric was finished in the same process as in Example 1. The obtained woven fabric was not satisfactory because it did not have a sense of volume and elasticity, had a low lightness of 2.24, and the woven structure was inconspicuous and insufficient.

  Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the woven and knitted fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 above.

Claims (8)

A woven or knitted fabric containing at least 25% by mass of a different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn including a polyamide crimped yarn comprising multifilaments and exhibiting different colors, wherein the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn has the following requirements (1) to A woven or knitted fabric for clothing, which is a crimped yarn satisfying (6).
(1) The single fiber fineness is 1.5 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less,
(2) The total fineness is not less than 400 dtex and not more than 1500 dtex,
(3) The number of constituent filaments is 50 or more and 1000 or less,
(4) The number of filaments of polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors is mixed in the range of 10:90 to 90:10,
(5) The single fiber cross-sectional shape is a multi-leaf shape of 3 or more leaves formed radially extending from the center point of the single fiber cross-section, and the degree of deformity is 1.5 or more and 5.5 or less,
(6) The coefficient of variation (CV)% of the degree of irregularity of the single fiber cross section is less than 7.0 and 1.0 or more.   The woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to claim 1, wherein one of the polyamide crimped yarns exhibiting different colors is a cationic dyeable polyamide crimped yarn.   The garment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the polyamide crimped yarns showing different color properties is a single fiber constituting a hollow fiber having a hollow ratio of 5% to 25%. Woven knitting. The actual twist is given to the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn, and the twist coefficient (K) represented by the following formula (1) is 300 or more and 35,000 or less. The woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to crab.
-Twist factor K = T x D ^1/2 ··· Formula (1)
T = number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D = total fineness of yarn (decitex)   5. The stretch rate of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn after boiling water treatment is 5% or more and 30% or less, and the entanglement number is 5 / m or more and 50 / m or less. The woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of the above. Lightweight (cm < ³ > / g) is 3.0 or more and 6.0 or less, and heat retention (%) is 20 or more and 50 or less, The woven fabric for clothes in any one of Claims 1-6 characterized by the above-mentioned. knitting.   The crimping rate of the different color mixed polyamide crimped yarn obtained by decomposing a woven or knitted fabric for clothing is 2.5% or more and 25% or less, for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 6. Woven knitting.   A garment using the woven or knitted fabric for clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the garment is selected from the group consisting of a coat, a cloak, a jacket, a skirt, a dress, pants, and a dress. Women's clothing.