JP5069706B2 - Woven textiles and Middle Eastern folk costumes made of the textiles - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric having a heel, and more particularly, to a woven fabric having a heel that has a comfortable wearing feeling and a high-class feeling and does not fall off when worn, and a Middle Eastern ethnic costume made of the woven fabric.

  Abaya worn to cover the body and chadolls worn around the body are known as women's Middle Eastern national costumes. Traditionally, these costumes include palace, satin or dobby, flat double, and sutra. A woven fabric having a heavy structure is used. In order to cope with the high-temperature climate in the Middle East region, there is a need for a material with a dry feel that does not cause stuffiness when worn, and a chadoll made of moisture-absorbing and releasing fabrics with high moisture-absorbing and releasing organic fine particles. (Patent Document 1).

  However, the chador made of this moisture-absorbing / releasing fabric also has a problem that the plain woven fabric is used in the same way as the conventional chadole and the wearing method is relaxed, so that it is easy to slip off during wearing.

JP 2002-38375 A

  The purpose of the present invention is to have excellent shape stability, less stuffiness and static electricity generation, soft surface and excellent refreshing feeling, high-grade gloss and clear color development, and when worn An object of the present invention is to provide a fabric having a wrinkle that does not slip off and a Middle Eastern folk costume made of the fabric.

The gist of the present invention is a woven fabric in which 50 to 100 area% of the woven fabric is worn by wrapping around the body or covering the body, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the heel direction is 0.22. It is in a fabric having a heel having a coefficient of dynamic friction of 0.17 to 0.22 in a direction perpendicular to the heel and in a direction perpendicular to the heel , and a Chador or Abaya Middle Eastern national costume made of the fabric.

  According to the present invention, it has form stability, little generation of stuffiness and static electricity, soft texture and refreshing feeling, high-grade gloss and clear color development, and misalignment when worn. A woven fabric having folds that are difficult to fall off can be obtained.

  The woven fabric having a crease of the present invention is preferably a woven fabric in which 50% by area or more of the woven fabric structure is a woven fabric. When the weaving is less than 50% by area, the wrinkles are reduced, so that it is easy to slip off when worn. The weave is one of the changed tissues derived from the plain weave structure, and the texture points of the plain weave are enlarged in the vertical or horizontal direction to make the warp in the vertical or horizontal direction. . What is produced in the direction of the cocoon is called a woven fabric, and what is produced in the direction of the cocoon is called a woven fabric.

  The woven fabric having wrinkles according to the present invention may be a woven fabric having wrinkles in the transverse direction or a woven fabric having wrinkles in the vertical direction. Preferred for. The woven fabric having a cocoon of the present invention may be composed of a structure of only a warp weave, but since the fabric weight can be reduced by reducing the fabric weight, the structure of a combination of warp woven and satin weave Preferably it consists of.

  The structure of the warp weave and pear texture is not particularly limited, but the warp weave is preferably a structure of 4 or less warp from the viewpoint of physical properties such as snag and slip. The weaving is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of texture and drape, there are used a structure of about 120 and about 120 wefts generally used for satin weaving. The arrangement of the warp weave tissue and the satin weave texture may be random or regular, but is preferably dispersed appropriately, and further, the warp weave tissue is 40 to 80% of the whole, More preferably, it is contained 50 to 70%.

In order to improve the design, various dobby patterns and jacquard patterns may be arranged on the fabric by a loom having a dobby mechanism or a jacquard mechanism.
The name of the woven fabric structure in the present invention is based on the “Guide to Fabric Structure (Application)” issued by the Ishikawa Prefectural Textile Structure Improvement Association in January 1997. The number of warp floats represents 2 warps, 3 warps, 4 warps, etc., each weaving 2 warps, 3 warps, 4 warps It is called Tsubori. The “pear texture” is a woven fabric with a fine grainy texture like the pear skin, and has many woven structures, for example, one based on 8 satin, 1/3 broken pattern There are no particular restrictions on the woven structure.

The woven fabric having a cocoon of the present invention uses a cellulose acetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 2 to 8%, preferably 3 to 7 % , as a yarn in a direction perpendicular to the cocoon. It is preferable for improvement .

The moisture content (R) is about 20 g of a sample, weighed the mass in the standard state and the absolute dry mass, calculated by the following formula, and obtained the average value of two times with JIS Z8401 with one decimal place. It is done.
R (%) = [(m−m ′) / m ′] × 100
m: Standard state mass of the sample (g)
m ′: absolute dry mass of the sample (g)
The mass in the standard state is pre-dried (the sample is kept constant in an environment where the relative humidity is 10 to 25% and the temperature does not exceed 50 ° C.), and then the standard state (temperature 20 ± 2 ° C., relative humidity 65 ± 4). %) In the test room and become a constant weight. The absolute dry mass is a mass in a state where the sample is left in a hot air dryer at a temperature of 105 ± 2 ° C. and becomes a constant weight.

Cellulose acetate filament yarn is a filament yarn made of cellulose acetate fiber made from cellulose or a derivative thereof, ie, cellulose or a derivative thereof, and a fiber yarn having a moisture content of 2 to 8%. There are no particular limitations on the production method, type, single fiber fineness, fiber cross-sectional shape, etc., but more specifically, in terms of dyeing clarity, coloring, gloss, coolness, setability, etc. rate 3.5% cellulose triacetate fibers, yarns and the like made from each water content 6.5% cellulose diacetate fibers.

  The woven fabric having a wrinkle of the present invention preferably has a dynamic friction coefficient in the direction of wrinkles of 0.22 to 0.32 and a dynamic friction coefficient in the direction perpendicular to the wrinkles of 0.17 to 0.22. If the dynamic friction coefficient in the direction of the heel is less than 0.22, or if the dynamic friction coefficient in the direction perpendicular to the heel is less than 0.17, it will be easy to slip off when worn. If the dynamic friction coefficient in the direction of the heel exceeds 0.32 and the dynamic friction coefficient in the direction perpendicular to the heel exceeds 0.22, the frictional resistance becomes too high, and the feeling of touch becomes worse.

In the woven fabric having a wrinkle according to the present invention, the fineness of the yarn in the direction perpendicular to the reed is smaller than the fineness of the yarn in the reed direction, and is preferably 56 to 133 dtex, more preferably 84 to, from the viewpoint of fabric strength and wearing feeling. 110 dtex. Moreover, the yarn in the cocoon direction in the woven fabric having cocoons of the present invention is not particularly limited in the type, form, moisture content, etc. of the fiber, but the false twisted yarn of polyester filament false twisted yarn and cellulose acetate filament yarn The twisted yarn twisted in the direction opposite to the twisting direction in the yarn causes the occurrence of swelling due to the untwisting torque of the false twisted yarn , and the manifestation of the cellulose acetate filament yarn on the surface of the twisted yarn due to the shrinkage difference between the two yarns. From the viewpoint, it is preferably used.

  The use of the woven fabric having the collar of the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is preferably used for ethnic costumes such as abaya, chadoll, punjabi, etc. because of its refreshing refreshing feeling and graceful coloring, especially the Middle East region Abaya and Chadoll, which are traditional costumes, are preferably used due to their refreshing texture and elegant color development, with almost no slippage when worn.

  For the reason why there is almost no slippage when wearing the Middle Eastern ethnic costume composed of the woven fabric having the cocoon of the present invention, the fabric of the present invention has a relatively large yarn floating in the direction perpendicular to the cocoon on the fabric surface, It is presumed that the frictional resistance with the inner is increased because the yarn on the inner surface is easily caught and the wrinkles on the fabric surface are large, that is, the contact area with the inner is large.

  The weaving method and the loom to be used of the woven fabric having the cocoon of the present invention are not particularly limited, and for example, the woven fabric having the cocoon of the present invention can be advantageously obtained by weaving with a water jet at a production cost.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. In the examples, the dynamic friction coefficient was measured according to the following procedure using a friction feeling tester KES-SE manufactured by Carttec Co., Ltd. as one of the measures showing the difficulty of slipping off during clothing.
(1) A sample having a length of 10 cm and a width of 3 cm is taken and placed on a smooth metal surface.
(2) A contact (20 mm long, 10 mm wide) with 20 piano wires having a diameter of 0.5 mm, and the contact surface is crimped to the sample with a force of 50 gf so that the direction of the piano wire and the measurement warp direction is vertical. Let
(3) The contact is moved 2.8 cm in the measurement warp direction at a constant speed of 0.1 cm / sec, and the dynamic friction coefficient between the contact and the sample is measured.

Example 1
As the warp, a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 3.5% (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20 filament (f)) sized without twisting was used. As wefts, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., triangular cross section semi-dial 56 dtex / 36f) and cellulose triacetate filament yarn of 3.5% moisture content (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20f) One was twisted 1800 times / m in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisted yarn, and S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were respectively produced. Weaving is performed using a water jet loom, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns are alternately driven as wefts. The structure is two warp warp warps, warp 62 warps, and 40 weft satin weaves. Weaving was carried out with a structure having a warp weaving texture and a satin weaving pattern repeated 2: 1.

  The obtained raw machine was refined by a conventional method, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished to give a warp density of 195 yarns / 吋 and a weft density of 88 yarns / 吋. The resulting woven fabric with wrinkles in the weft direction has a soft texture, a feeling of swelling, a refreshing feel derived from cellulose triacetate filament yarn, and a black color with an elegant luster and deep color development And drapeability was excellent, and it was excellent in form stability without washing shrinkage. Further, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.194, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.273. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

(Example 2)
As the warp, a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 3.5% (Bright 61 dtex / 15f, manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) sized without twisting was used. As the weft, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon, round-cornered cross section 33 dtex / 24f) and cellulose triacetate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon, Bright 61 dtex / 15f) with a moisture content of 3.5% 2) Twist of 2200 times / m was added in the opposite direction to the twisting direction of the false twisted yarn, and a single twisted yarn of S twist and Z twist was produced. Weaving is performed using a water jet loom, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns are alternately driven as wefts. The structure is two warp warp warps, warp 62 warps, and 40 weft satin weaves. Weaving was carried out with a structure having a warp weaving texture and a satin weaving pattern repeated 2: 1.

  The obtained raw machine was scoured, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 to finish a warp density of 230 / w and a weft density of 110 / w. The resulting woven fabric having ridges in the weft direction has a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, and is lighter than the woven fabric obtained in Example 1 due to the effect of reducing the fineness of the constituent yarns. It is thin, has a refreshing feel derived from cellulose triacetate filament yarn, has an elegant luster and deep black color with excellent color development, and has a high-class feeling with excellent drape. There was no washing shrinkage and excellent shape stability. Further, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.185, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.241. The Chadole, a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to a Chadole using satin or palace fabrics.

(Example 3)
As the warp, a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 3.5% (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 110 dtex / 26f) sized without twisting was used. As wefts, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., triangular cross section semi-dial 56 dtex / 36f) and cellulose triacetate filament yarn of 3.5% moisture content (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 110 dtex / 26f) One was twisted 1600 times / m in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisted yarn, and S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were respectively produced. Weaving is performed using a water jet loom, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns are alternately driven as wefts. The structure is two warp warp warps, warp 62 warps, and 40 weft satin weaves. Weaving was carried out with a structure having a warp weaving texture and a satin weaving pattern repeated 2: 1.

  The obtained raw machine was scoured, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished in the same manner as in Example 1, and finished to a warp density of 168 / w and a weft density of 78 / w. The resulting woven fabric having ridges in the weft direction has a soft texture and a feeling of swelling. Compared with the woven fabric obtained in Example 1, the effect of increasing the fineness of the constituent yarns provides a firm texture, and the weft direction With a wide wrinkle spacing, a refreshing feel derived from cellulose triacetate filament yarn, an elegant gloss and a deep black color with excellent color development, and a high quality drape Furthermore, there was no washing shrinkage and the shape stability was excellent. In addition, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.209, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.288. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

Example 4
As the warp, a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 3.5% (Bright 84dtex / 20f manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) sized without twisting was used. As wefts, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., triangular cross section semi-dial 56 dtex / 36f) and cellulose triacetate filament yarn of 3.5% moisture content (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20f) One was twisted 1800 times / m in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisted yarn, and S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were respectively produced. A water jet loom was used for weaving, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were alternately driven as wefts, and the texture was woven with two warp warp weaves.

  The obtained raw machine was scoured, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 to finish a warp density of 198 / w and a weft density of 87 / w. The resulting woven fabric having a crease in the weft direction has a soft texture and a feeling of swelling. Compared with the woven fabric obtained in Example 1, the effect of changing the structure makes the crease in the weft direction deeper, and cellulose triacetate filament yarn It has a refreshing feel derived from the product, and has an elegant luster and deep black color with excellent color development, a drape and a high-class feel, and is stable in form without washing shrinkage. It was excellent in properties. In addition, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.201, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.292. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

(Example 5)
As the warp, a cellulose diacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 6.5% (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 21f) sized without twisting was used. As the weft, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., triangular cross section 56 dtex / 36f) and cellulose diacetate filament yarn of 6.5% moisture content (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 21f) ) One strand was added 1800 times / m in the direction opposite to the direction of twisting with the false twisted yarn, and S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were respectively produced. Weaving is performed using a water jet loom, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns are alternately driven as wefts. The structure is two warp warp warps, warp 62 warps, and 40 weft satin weaves. Weaving was carried out with a structure having a warp weaving texture and a satin weaving pattern repeated 2: 1.

  The obtained raw machine was scoured, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 to finish a warp density of 195 yarns / 吋 and a weft yarn density of 88 yarns / 吋. The resulting woven fabric having wrinkles in the weft direction has a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, and has a refreshing feel while having a hygroscopic property derived from cellulose diacetate filament yarn compared to the woven fabric obtained in Example 1. In addition, a black having an elegant luster and deep color developability was obtained, and it had a high-class feeling with excellent drape properties, and was excellent in form stability without washing shrinkage. In addition, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.199, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.280. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

(Comparative Example 1)
As the warp, a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 3.5% (Bright 84dtex / 20f manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) sized without twisting was used. As wefts, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., triangular cross section semi-dial 56 dtex / 36f) and cellulose triacetate filament yarn of 3.5% moisture content (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20f) One was twisted 1800 times / m in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisted yarn, and S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were respectively produced. A water jet loom was used for weaving, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were alternately driven as wefts, and the texture was plain weaving.

  The obtained raw machine was scoured, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 to finish a warp density of 180 / w and a weft density of 70 / w. The resulting plain fabric has a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, a refreshing feel derived from cellulose triacetate filament yarn, and an elegant gloss and deep black color with excellent color development. It has a high-class feeling with excellent properties, and has no washing shrinkage and excellent shape stability. However, the resulting woven fabric has a plain weaving structure and has small warp irregularities and no wrinkles in the weft direction. The kinetic coefficient of friction in the warp direction is 0.156, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the weft direction. Was 0.164. Abaya, a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, was easy to slip off when worn.

(Example 6)
As the warp, a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 3.5% (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 40 dtex / 9f) sized without twisting was used. As a weft, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon, round section semi-dial 22dtex / 12f) and cellulose diacetate filament yarn of 6.5% moisture content (Mitsubishi Rayon, Bright 40 dtex /) 9f) A twist of 2500 turns / m was applied in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisted yarn to produce one S twisted and Z twisted twisted yarn. A water jet loom was used for weaving, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns were alternately driven as wefts, and the texture was woven with two warp warp weaves.

  The obtained raw machine was scoured, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 to finish the warp density at 280 / w and the weft density at 134 / w. The resulting woven fabric having wrinkles in the weft direction was slightly low in strength, but had a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, a refreshing feel derived from cellulose acetate filament yarn, and an elegant luster. A deep black color with excellent color developability was obtained, the drape was excellent, and it had a high-class feeling, and was free from washing shrinkage and excellent in form stability. In addition, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.176, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.242. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

(Example 7)
As the warp, a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a moisture content of 3.5% (Bright 167 dtex / 40f manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) sized without twisting was used. As the weft, one false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., rounded cross section semi-dal 110 dtex / 48f) and cellulose triacetate filament yarn of 3.5% moisture content (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 167 dtex / 40f) One strand (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) was twisted 1200 times / m in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisted yarn, and S twisted and Z twisted twisted yarns were respectively produced. Weaving is performed using a water jet loom, and two S-twisted and Z-twisted twisted yarns are alternately driven as wefts. The structure is two warp warp warps, warp 62 warps, and 40 weft satin weaves. Weaving was performed in an array where warp weave and satin weave were repeated 2: 1.

  The obtained raw machine was scoured, dyed with a black disperse dye, and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 to finish a warp density of 142 / 吋 and a weft density of 64 / 吋. The resulting woven fabric having a warp in the weft direction had a large fineness of the constituent yarns and felt a little heavy when worn, but the kinetic coefficient of friction in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.216, The dynamic friction history number was 0.301. The resulting fabric has a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, a refreshing feel derived from cellulose triacetate filament yarn, and an elegant gloss and deep black color with excellent color development, resulting in drape It was also excellent and luxurious. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

(Example 8)
In Example 1, weaving and dyeing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp yarn was replaced with polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn having a moisture content of 0.4% (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., triangular cross bright 84dtex / 36f). Finished to the same warp and weft density, a woven fabric having weft-direction warps was obtained. The obtained woven fabric having wrinkles in the weft direction had a slightly hard texture, but had no washing shrinkage and excellent shape stability. In addition, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.189, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.267. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

Example 9
In Example 1, the same conditions as in Example 1 were used except that the cellulose triacetate filament yarn of warp and weft was replaced with rayon filament yarn having a moisture content of 11.0% (MD84 dtex / 24f manufactured by Jilin Kasei Group Co., Ltd.). After weaving using a rapier loom, the fabric was dyed and finished to the same warp and weft density to obtain a woven fabric having a weft in the weft direction. The resulting woven fabric having wrinkles in the weft direction had a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, and had a refreshing feel due to the high moisture content of the rayon filament yarn, but its form stability was slightly low. In addition, the dynamic friction coefficient in the warp direction of the fabric was 0.196, and the dynamic friction coefficient in the transverse direction was 0.275. Abaya, which is a national costume in the Middle East using this fabric, did not fall off when worn compared to Abaya using a satin or palace fabric.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having morphological stability, little generation of stuffiness and static electricity, excellent softness with a soft texture, high-quality luster and clear color development. In addition, the woven fabric having a heel of the present invention has a soft texture, gloss, and colorability of the heel itself, and is very difficult to shift due to the morphological unevenness effect of the heel itself. It is preferable.

Claims (12)

Worn around the body and worn 50% to 100% of the woven fabric is a woven fabric, the kinetic friction coefficient in the heel direction is 0.22 to 0.32, and the kinetic friction coefficient in the direction perpendicular to the heel is Woven fabric with folds that are 0.17 to 0.22 . Cellulose acetate filament yarn is used as the yarn perpendicular to the heel, and polyester filament false twisted yarn and cellulose acetate filament yarn are twisted in the direction opposite to the twisted direction in the false twisted yarn as the yarn in the heel direction. The woven fabric having a reed according to claim 1, wherein the woven yarn is made of a single twisted yarn . The woven fabric having a reed according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the reed is a warp weave. The woven fabric having a crease according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the woven fabric structure is a combination of warp weave and satin weave. The fineness of the yarn in the direction perpendicular to the reed is smaller than the fineness of the yarn in the reed direction and is 56 to 133 dtex, The woven fabric having a reed according to any one of claims 1 to 4. A woven fabric in which 50 to 100 area% of the woven fabric is worn so as to cover the body, and has a kinetic friction coefficient in the heel direction of 0.22 to 0.32 and a kinetic friction coefficient in a direction perpendicular to the heel. A woven fabric having folds having a thickness of 0.17 to 0.22 . Cellulose acetate filament yarn is used as the yarn perpendicular to the heel, and polyester filament false twisted yarn and cellulose acetate filament yarn are twisted in the direction opposite to the twisted direction in the false twisted yarn as the yarn in the heel direction. The woven fabric having a wrinkle according to claim 6, wherein the woven yarn is used. The woven fabric having a cocoon according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the woven fabric is a vertical woven fabric. The woven fabric having a crease according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein the woven fabric structure is a combination of warp weave and satin weave. The woven fabric having a cocoon according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein the fineness of the yarn in a direction perpendicular to the cocoon is smaller than the fineness of the yarn in the cocoon direction and is 56 to 133 dtex. The chadoll which consists of a textile fabric which has a wrinkle as described in any one of Claims 1-5. The abaya which consists of a textile fabric which has the wrinkles as described in any one of Claims 6-10.