JPS6317933B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

(Industrial Application Field) The present invention has a swirling portion in which thick fiber portions existing partially and intermittently in constituent single fibers are swirled around the outer periphery of a multifilament yarn. Concerning polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn. More specifically, the constituent filament fibers have a fiber diameter difference in the fiber axis direction and a dyeing ability difference corresponding to the fiber diameter difference, and thick fiber portions of each constituent fiber exist partially and intermittently. is a polyester length that exists mainly in a spiral structure around the outer periphery of the twisted yarn by twisting the entire yarn, and also has a thick and thin shape when viewed as a yarn. This relates to thick and thin fiber threads. In addition, since the above-mentioned turning portion is caused by thick fiber portions that are partially and intermittently present in the constituent single fibers, the turning portion is caused by thick fiber portions that are partially and intermittently present in the constituent single fibers. It exists partially and intermittently. The knitted fabric obtained by using the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn of the present invention in whole or in part has a spun-like texture rich in ``sharpening taste'' and ``bulkness'', as well as ``repellency'' and unique properties. It has a mild luster, and when dyed, it also has a heathered or marbled color effect due to the difference in dyeing ability between the thick and thin parts, which is an excellent product that has not been seen before. be. (Prior Art) Conventionally, this type of yarn consisting of constituent fibers that are thick and thin in the direction of the fiber axis, as well as knitted fabrics using this yarn, exist, but the present invention aims at
Thick and thin polyester long fibers having portions in which the constituent fibers were partially or intermittently twisted were not found. The reason for this seems to be that it was generally thought that the presence of swirling fibers would impair the thick and thin effect of the constituent fibers of Setsuko, as well as the marbling effect and heathered effect corresponding to the thick and thin fibers. In other words, the main focus of this type of yarn has been to obtain the desired effect based on the direct appearance or surface morphology of the yarn, and the fibers are swirled around the yarn. This idea is usually absent. Therefore, in the field of yarns that, when dyed, have a heathered or marbled color effect due to the difference in dyeing ability between thick and thin parts, we cannot find any yarns that have swirling fibers. Nakatsuta. Furthermore, although the constituent fibers have thick and thin sections in the fiber axis direction, the phase of the thick and thin sections is made random, so that the thick and weak portions are visually created as yarns with uniform thickness. Yarns that are then cut and fluffed to achieve almost the same effect as staple fiber bundles (spun yarns) (for example,
31144), of course there was no idea of arranging swirling fibers around the yarn that would interfere with fluffing and further impair the effect of the fluff. On the other hand, although the constituent fibers have thick and thin fibers in the fiber axis direction, in particular, the number of thick and thin fibers present is large and the pitch of their presence is finely randomized, so that the yarn is visually even in thickness. Even with yarns that aim for spun touch and color depth, the delicate color depth of the yarn,
Since the objective was to obtain the desired effect based on the appearance and surface morphology, there was usually no thought to intentionally swirl the fibers around the threads. On the other hand, within the scope of various conventional techniques, as a yarn having portions of different thickness intermittently in the fiber axis direction,
For example, by supplying two or more types of yarn using a design twisting machine, combination twisting machine, false twisting machine, etc. and setting a feed difference between the yarns, it is possible to create sections with partially or intermittently different thicknesses. Yarns can be made, and heathered yarns or marbled yarns can be made by supplying two or more types of yarns with different dyeability or yarns dyed in different colors in advance, and using similar means and methods. However, these methods increase manufacturing costs and are severely restricted in terms of manufacturing equipment.Also, the method of supplying two or more types of yarn dyed in different colors in advance requires a wide range of color combinations, making production difficult. It is complicated and involves a large amount of loss. Additionally, when yarns with different dyeability are combined, differences in shrinkage rates and stress relaxation often occur, resulting in defects such as poor process passability and uneven grain on woven or knitted fabrics. It is often accompanied by On the other hand, even with synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, by partially and intermittently changing the draw ratio,
It is possible to obtain changes in thickness and differences in dyeing in the direction of the fiber axis. However, the yarn obtained by this method generally has extremely low strength and poor abrasion resistance in thick (deeply dyed) portions that are insufficiently drawn, and often fails to meet practical performance. Currently, among the conventional yarns as described above, no yarns have been found that have partial or intermittently turning portions. If you are forced to make such a thread using these threads,
For example, the swirling yarn can be created by using polyurethane elastic yarn as the core yarn and winding other yarns around the sheath yarn, but alternatively, the swirling yarn can be created by plying and twisting yarns using yarns with different shrinkage rates. However, in the thus obtained swirled yarn, the swirling portion is present all over the entire yarn, and when looking at the yarn as a whole, the swirling portion is partially or intermittently present. It does not mean that it actually exists. (Problems to be Solved by the Invention) In view of the above-mentioned points, the object of the present invention is to provide a high value-added polyester long fiber having partial and intermittently swirling parts, which has not been seen in the prior art. The purpose is to provide thick and fine threads. (Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention that achieves the above object consists of the following configuration. That is, the polyester long fiber yarn of the present invention is a multifilament yarn that has a thick/fine change in the yarn length direction and is twisted, and the yarn is a fiber fluff formed by cutting the constituent fibers. and the single fibers constituting the yarn are long fibers that have a diameter change in the fiber axis direction and have a difference in dyeing ability between thick fiber portions and thin fiber portions, The polyester long fiber yarn is characterized in that the thick fiber portions, which are partially or intermittently present in the constituent fibers, are present in a spiral manner on the outer peripheral portion of the yarn. (Function) Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail. In the present invention, the polyester constituting the polyester long fiber thick and thin threads is made from terephthalic acid or its lower alkyl derivative (diester of alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms) and ethylene glycol, or from terephthalic acid or its lower alkyl derivative (diester of alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms) and ethylene glycol. Polyester compositions obtained from lower alkyl derivatives and ethylene glycol and at least one other component, or from bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate or its oligomers, or from bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate and at least one other component at least 70% of the unit
is composed of polyethylene terephthalate. The polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn having partial and intermittently turning parts of the present invention is obtained by further twisting the thick and thin yarn obtained under special spinning and drawing conditions. Yes, for example,
A method of drawing highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn with a birefringence of 15 to 70×10 ^-3 by mechanically changing the drawing ratio, or a method of partially drawing incompletely drawn portions by using special drawing conditions. It can be manufactured by a method of forming a special thread having a method of manufacturing the method, and by twisting the thick and thin thread obtained by these methods. In the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn before twisting obtained by the above method, the constituent fibers have a diameter change in the fiber axis direction, and the thick and thin portions have a difference in dyeing ability. However, when dyed, the thicker parts absorb the dye quickly and are dyed deeply, while the thinner parts absorb the dye slowly and are dyed light, resulting in a difference in dyeing. Furthermore, it is important to note that for the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn of the present invention, important factors include spinning speed, oil agent and its amount of adhesion, drawing ratio, drawing pin and its temperature, degree of winding, etc. The thick and thin polyester long fibers obtained through a combination of appropriate conditions are twisted, so that the partially and intermittently thick fibers present in the constituent fibers are separated from other thin fibers. The difference is that the twisted yarn exhibits a special behavior of turning around the outer periphery, and exhibits deformation that has not been seen before. This deformation mechanism is thought to be due to the difference in torsional rigidity between the thick fiber portion and the thin fiber portion, and the details will be described later. The number of twists is not particularly limited and may be determined according to the desired characteristics of the woven or knitted fabric.For example, the number of twists can be roughly classified as follows: (2) medium twist of 500-800T/m, (3) strong twist of 1000T/m or more, which of these should be adopted? It may be determined as appropriate depending on the intended use of the final woven or knitted product and desired characteristics such as desired texture, gloss, and crispness. That is, for example, spring/summer women's clothing (dresses,
For crepe fabrics such as Georgette crepe (for blouses, scarves, skirts, dresses, formal wear, etc.) and dechining crepe (for blouses, furoshiki, Japanese clothing linings, etc.), strong twist (3) should be used. For example, 75 denier is 1800 ~
2400T/m, 50 denier is preferably about 2200 to 2800T/m. For textiles such as voile and shear, which are mainly used for women's clothing, medium-twisted ones (2) with a strength of about 800 to 1000 T/m are best, and are suitable for linings, umbrella fabrics, Japanese clothing linings,
Fabrics such as taffeta and habutae used for cold-weather clothing are preferably those with a soft twist of 200 to 300 T/m or less as described in (1). In addition, when the yarn according to the present invention is used in a woven fabric, it can be used for one of the warp and weft, or for both the warp and weft. In particular, as described above, the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarns of the present invention have diameter differences and dyeability differences in the fiber axis direction, and therefore can impart a heathered effect or marbling effect to the product. In addition, at the same time, the void effect as described later can be obtained by the swirling portions that exist partially and intermittently. It is better to focus on the marbling effect. In other words, it is better to mainly consider whether the heathering and marbling effects are to be realized in the warp direction, the weft direction, or both the warp and weft directions. Furthermore, as another usage method, there are usage methods such as alternating use of the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn according to the present invention with other yarns, twisting and compound use.
Here, other yarns include, for example, regular polyester long fiber yarn, nylon long fiber yarn, acrylic long fiber yarn, or polyester, acrylic, cotton,
These include short fiber yarns (spun yarns) such as wool, and blended yarns of these yarns. By alternately using several to dozens of these yarns and the yarn of the present invention, or by intertwisting or combining them, a multi-color effect with a natural and rustic feel, and a bulky feel can be achieved. It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with a unique texture and excellent drapability and repulsion properties due to the combination of different shrinkage rates. Next, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a model side view of an example of a thick and thin polyester multifilament yarn before twisting to obtain the yarn of the present invention. In the figure, (a) is a fully stretched part, and (b) is an incompletely stretched part. When this thread is dyed, the (a) part is light dyed and the (b) part is dyed darkly, so that the entire thread has a heathered or marbled color effect. On the other hand, if you want to dye the entire fabric in a plain color without making the (a) and (b) parts different colors other than the heathered and marbled tones, you can choose the dye and dyeing conditions to make the (a) part and (b) part different colors.
In the part (b), it is also possible to dye the entire yarn almost uniformly with almost no difference in dyeing. (a) and (b) are randomly distributed, and their birefringence is as shown in Table 1.

[Table] If the birefringence of the thick part is about 25×10 ^-3 , it will have a good gradation difference effect, and the thick part (part b)
It is not brittle, has sufficient dyeing and abrasion fastness, and can withstand practical use. However, when the birefringence of the b part is about 15×10 ^-3 or less, although the contrast effect of the thick part is good, the wear resistance of the thick part is insufficient and it breaks easily, making it impractical. It is not durable and the dyeing and rub fastness properties are also poor. Therefore, the yarn of the present invention is substantially free of fiber fuzz formed by cutting the constituent fibers. On the other hand, the thick-to-thin ratio B/A of the diameters of the thick portion B and the thin portion A of the entire multifilament yarn in the state shown in FIG. 1 is preferably in the range of about 1.2 to 1.8. If the thick-to-thin ratio B/A is 1.2 or less, when the fabric is made into a woven or knitted fabric, the difference between the thick part and the thin part cannot be clearly realized, and the effect of the difference in shade becomes extremely small. On the other hand, if the thick-to-fine ratio B/A is 1.8 or more, the yarn will be brittle and break easily, resulting in poor practical performance, and the dyeing and abrasion fastness will also be poor, which is not preferable. More specifically, in the present invention, as described above, twisting is applied to create a swirling part, but by twisting, the bundle of the yarn as a whole improves, and the thick-to-thin ratio B/A tends to become slightly smaller. To have
It is preferable that the yarn has a slightly larger thickness ratio B/A. b contained in the entire multifilament yarn
The length ratio is preferably within the range of 20% to 40% in terms of length ratio, taking into consideration practical performance such as heathering due to difference in density, marbling effect, wear resistance, frequency of swirling parts, etc. FIG. 2 shows a cross section of the polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn shown in FIG. 1. Note that A, B, a, and b in FIGS. 2 to 14 all indicate the same parts as in FIG. 1. That is, A indicates the thin part of the multifilament yarn, B indicates the thick part of the multifilament yarn, and a and b
denotes individual fiber portions of the yarn; a is light dyed in the fully drawn area, and b is dark dyed in the incompletely drawn area. FIG. 3 is a side view of the polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn shown in FIG. 1 twisted at 500 T/m, and FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view thereof. Incompletely stretched portion b that exists partially and intermittently
In this case, the twist angle is larger than that in the fully stretched part a, and the part b turns around the part a, and at the same time, it is slightly separated from the part a, making it possible to obtain a novel yarn that has never existed before. 5 and 6 similarly show a side view and a cross-sectional view of a yarn twisted at 1000 T/m. 7 and 8 similarly show a side view and a cross-sectional view of a yarn twisted at 1500 T/m. FIGS. 9 and 10 similarly show a side view and a cross-sectional view of the yarn twisted at 2000 T/m. In addition, all figures 3 to 10 are 75
It is modeled after a denier, 36 filament yarn. As modeled in each of these figures, as the number of twists increases, (1) the cohesiveness of the yarn as a whole improves, and (2) there is less tendency for part b to separate from part a. (3) The difference in twist angle between parts a and b becomes small. (4) The diameter ratio of B/A becomes small. When ordinary multifilament yarns with different diameters are twisted, the number of twists (twist angle) is different between the thicker and thinner parts, with twists concentrated in the thinner parts and fewer twists in the thicker parts. There is a tendency for it to be obtained over time. However, on the other hand, the polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn according to the present invention has parts a and b.
The birefringence and torsional rigidity of the part are different, compared to the part a,
Because these values are small in the b part, unlike normal multifilament thick and thin yarns, the twist is not concentrated in the thin part and the entire yarn is almost uniform despite the difference in diameter. It is made by being twisted. In addition, since the partially and intermittently present incompletely stretched portions b have low torsional rigidity, when twisted, they easily separate from the yarn without resisting the twisting torque, and the outer periphery of the twisted yarn Turn around. FIG. 11 shows an example of the relationship between the number of twists and the twist angle in the polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn according to the present invention, divided into fully stretched portion a and incompletely stretched portion b. . The twist angle mentioned here refers to the "New Edition Twisting Method" (written by Takenosuke Mikami).
According to the definition on p3-p5, Sangyo Tosho Co., Ltd. version),
It was determined from tan<a. In FIG. 11, the twist angle increases as the number of twists increases, but the twist angle difference between portions a and b becomes smaller as the number of twists increases. As a result of various investigations regarding the limit value of the number of twists, (1) In order to obtain the desired effects of the present invention,
Preferably, the difference in the twist angle between part a and part b is 2° or more. (2) To be more specific, the structure, density,
Although it varies depending on the number of twists, dyeing and finishing conditions, etc., it has become clear that, in general, it is necessary that the difference in twist angle between part a and part b be at least 1.5° to 3°. (3) Expressing the above in terms of the number of twists, it was found that the limit of the number of twists at which the desired effect of the present invention can be obtained satisfactorily is expressed as T=K/√. Here, T is the limit twisting number, D is the denier (total fineness), and K is a constant of 21430. From this formula, the specific limit number of twists is as shown in Table 2, and if the twisting is performed with a value smaller than this number of twists, the above-mentioned preferable difference in twist angle can be obtained, which is desirable.

[Table] (4) Although it varies depending on the structural requirements of the fabric (for example, in the case of woven fabrics, weave texture, warp and weft density, fineness, number of twists, etc.) and dyeing and finishing conditions, the twist of parts a and b As mentioned in (1) and (2) above, it is desirable that the difference in twist angle is at least 1.5° to 2° or more.
When the angle is less than 1.5° to 2°, the difference between the turned part existing on the outer periphery of the twisted yarn and the non-turned part becomes extremely small, and the existence of the void c in FIG. 14, which will be described later, becomes extremely small. This is because there is almost no or no desired effect (for example, drapability, repellency, bulkiness, wrinkle resistance, etc.). Next, the effects of twisting tension are summarized as follows.
FIG. 12. When the tension during twisting becomes large, a
The difference between the twist angles of and b becomes small. In other words, the lower the tension is applied, the greater the difference between the twist angles a and b becomes, and the intended effects of the present invention are more likely to be exhibited. For this reason,
It is preferable that the twisting tension is small. In addition, in the present invention, there is no problem even if the constituent fibers include, in addition to thick fiber portions and thin fiber portions, fiber portions exhibiting a thickness intermediate between these portions. In addition, in the yarn of the present invention, all of the thick fiber portions in the constituent fibers do not need to form turning portions; for example, the thick fiber portions in the constituent fibers do not need to form turning portions; A slightly thick single fiber portion in a thin yarn portion does not necessarily have to form a swirling portion. Furthermore, the twisting does not need to be in one direction over the entire yarn length, and may be a combination of S and Z twists. Furthermore, the yarn of the present invention may, of course, partially contain constituent fibers with uniform thickness within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. (Effects of the Invention) Next, the effects of the woven or knitted fabric using the polyester long fiber yarn of the present invention will be described in (1) to (8) below. FIG. 13 shows a cross section of a fabric obtained from ordinary polyester yarn, and FIG. 14 shows a cross section of a fabric obtained from a polyester long fiber yarn according to the present invention. (1) Compared to the cross-section of the conventional fabric shown in FIG. 13, the cross-section of the fabric using the yarn according to the present invention shows that the outer periphery of the twisted yarn has partial Since the intermittent thick single fiber portions are swirling, gaps tend to form around the outer periphery of the twisted yarn, creating voids between the warp and weft yarns and within both the warp and weft yarns. It has c. That is, since there are voids both within the yarns and between the yarns, the bending resistance of the woven or knitted fabric is reduced, and a woven or knitted fabric with excellent drapability is obtained. This effect can be said to be almost the same as the effect of removing sericin from silk fabric. (2) When subjected to bending deformation due to similar effects,
Due to the effect of the voids c, stress recovery from bending becomes easy, and a woven or knitted fabric with high resilience can be obtained. In fabrics obtained from ordinary polyester multifilament yarns, drapability and repellency are in a contradictory relationship, and generally, when drapability is imparted, repulsion decreases; however, the polyester long fibers according to the present invention Thick and fine threads are
As mentioned above, both of these characteristics can be satisfied at the same time. In other words, a woven or knitted fabric with good drapability and excellent repellency can be obtained. (3) Since there are voids both within the single filament and between the single filaments, recovery against external pressure is imparted and wrinkle resistance is improved. (4) Woven and knitted fabrics with rich shari taste (sharp feeling) can be obtained due to the twisting effect. It also has a mild luster. (5) Since the twisted yarn has a turning part on its outer periphery, a bulky woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. (6) Since the entire multifilament yarn has thick parts as shown in Figure 1, a woven or knitted fabric with a unique texture due to the local thickness unevenness of natural fibers and spun yarns can be obtained. . (7) Woven or knitted fabrics with a multicolor effect of three or more colors can be obtained by twisting or alternately using other yarns with different dyeability. (8) Furthermore, since the dyeability of the thicker parts differs, when dyed, a difference in shade occurs, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with a heathered or marbling effect. (Example) Examples will be described below. Examples/Comparative Examples The polyester multifilament thick yarn (marked with * in Table 3) according to the present invention used in this example was as follows:
A semi-undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn spun at 3250 m/min was made into a drawn yarn using a hot pin in a drawing machine. The obtained yarn had thickness unevenness partially and intermittently in the fiber axis direction, and the ratio of thick and thin axis diameters (B/A) was 1.40 to 1.65. Also, the birefringence of the thick part (part b in Figure 1) is 20 to 45×
10 ^-3 , and the birefringence of the thin part (part a in Figure 1) is
Ivy, which is 140 to 170 × 10 ^-3 . As a result of twisting such yarns, for example, as shown in FIGS. 3 to 10, thick fiber portions partially and intermittently present in the constituent fibers are turned around the twisted yarns. I got something. Of course, this yarn had no fiber fluff caused by cutting the constituent fibers. Incidentally, the weight loss rate (%) due to alkali treatment in the examples was determined based on the following formula. Weight loss rate (%) = {(Weight of untreated sample - Weight of treated sample) / (Weight of untreated sample)} x 100 As is clear from Table 3, the obtained fabric has many characteristics. , and was rich in new added value that had not existed before.

【table】

【table】 [Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a side view showing a model of a multifilament yarn before twisting, which is a raw material for the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a side view of the yarn. FIG. Figure 3,
Figures 5, 7, and 9 show the yarns shown in Figure 1 at 500T/m, 1000T/m, and 1500T/m, respectively.
Fig. 4 is a side view showing the side model structure of the yarn of the present invention obtained by twisting at
6, 8, and 10 are cross-sectional views of the respective threads. FIG. 11 is a graph illustrating the relationship between the number of twists and the twist angle, and FIG. 12 is a graph illustrating the relationship between the twisting tension and the twist angle. 13th
14 are cross-sectional views of a model structure of a woven fabric, FIG. 13 is a cross-sectional view of a woven fabric obtained from ordinary polyester yarn, and FIG. 14 is a cross-sectional view of a woven fabric obtained from a regular polyester yarn. This figure shows a cross-sectional view of a fabric obtained from. A: A portion where the entire yarn is thin, B: A portion where the yarn is thick as a whole, a: Completely stretched portion in the constituent fibers, b: Incompletely stretched portion in the constituent fibers, c: Voids obtained in the woven fabric.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1 A multifilament yarn which has a thickness change in the yarn length direction and is twisted, and the yarn substantially has fiber fuzz formed by cutting constituent fibers. The single fibers constituting the yarn are long fibers whose diameter changes in the fiber axis direction, and the dyeing ability of the thick and thin fiber portions is different. A polyester filament yarn characterized in that the thick fiber portions, which are partially and intermittently present in the constituent fibers, are swirled around the outer peripheral portion. 2. A patent characterized in that the twisting angle of the thick fibers among the constituent fibers that are present in a twisted manner around the outer periphery of the yarn is larger than the twist angle formed by the thin fibers of the yarn. The polyester long fiber yarn according to claim 1. 3. The polyester long fiber yarn according to claim 2, wherein the difference between the turning angle and the twisting angle is 2.0° or more. 4. Claims 1 and 2 are characterized in that the number of twists is T=21430√ or less.
or the polyester long fiber yarn according to item 3. However, T: number of twists (twists/m), D: yarn denier.