JPS5966537A - Special feeling fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a special-looking synthetic fiber, and more particularly to a novel special-looking synthetic fiber having a linen and linen texture with surface effects.

Traditionally, fabrics made from hemp have a unique crisp taste.

Due to its texture and hygroscopicity, it is indispensable for spring and summer clothing, but due to the essential characteristics of hemp and spinning machinery, it is difficult to spin fine yarn, and the shape of the fabric is also difficult. It has poor stability, pleatability, and washing resistance, and has many practical inconveniences, and is also an expensive material.

On the other hand, various fabrics have been proposed that use thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments and have a spun yarn-like surface effect and a hemp-like special texture.

For example, a processed yarn in which thermoplastic multifilament is subjected to false twist processing in a fusion high temperature region, the single filaments are partially fused together, and at the same time an untwisted part is created, which is hardened by fusion and given real twist. Fabrics with a chick-like special texture that have a surface effect using special twisted yarns obtained by adding twisting elements such as pre-twisting, false-twisting, false-twisting, and covering are known. ing. However, for processed yarns produced by the former fusion method, differences in the physical properties of the raw yarns supplied and slight differences in processing conditions significantly affect the MW degree and level dyeing properties, reducing the quality of the processed yarns, resulting in poor fabric quality. When vertical, 3.39
This is a factor that induces step or streak defects, and the latter special twisting method is costly. Full crystal crystal i6. There are problems with the texture and surface. -! □The former has a crisp feel that is a typical characteristic of the hemp texture.

Although it has the special characteristics of hemp, it cannot be compared to 4.1 in terms of the surface effect of linen with 1" short fibers, subtle texture, and appearance. □ As a result of intensive studies to eliminate such conventional drawbacks, the present invention has been developed by making polyester multifilament with a special cross-sectional shape into a false-twisted yarn.・It was developed based on the knowledge that the above disadvantages can be solved by adding a certain range of crowds to the yarn and using a specific proportion of spun yarn.The purpose of this is to □Unseen in the past＝”＝'tA very cypress with a surface effect □Rij'ltf?
This special textured synthetic fiber has a very special texture, has excellent level dyeing properties, is advantageous in terms of cost, and also has good form stability, pleatability, and washing resistance, which are the disadvantages of linen fabrics. It's about providing things.

That is, the present invention provides a false-twisted yarn consisting of a single filament 1 having at least one special cross section selected from 8 to 8 radial cross-sectional shapes: There are untwisted parts, over-untwisted parts 11, and crimped parts in the axial direction, and the untwisted parts are multiformed by interlacing the filaments without being fused to each other. The total thread length is 59
The warp is a false twisted yarn consisting of polyester multifilament that accounts for 6% or more, the weft is 40% or more (spun yarn), and the ratio of the weft diameter to the warp diameter is 0.
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a special-looking synthetic fiber material characterized by i~1.7.

The present invention will not be described in detail below. 1. The main features of the present invention. One is that the warp is a false twisted processed yarn that is used to wear a woven yarn. '□In the present invention, the false twisted yarn having intertwined leaves used for the warp is, for example, a single filament [. 1 of 3 to 8 leaves,) the length is M, and at least the above two leaves from the length are n
'' (Po + J
, the □ twist angle calculated from the formula (1) below at the fusion temperature and the lower temperature for the stell multi-fi lame sheet is 112.
R? It will be done.

θ; Izemi corner finish (0) D; Multi-filament fiber ICI' (D□Knee)□
(b) Number of T-strand false twists (t/m > Next, the cross-sectional shape will be explained in detail).

Here, as a representative case, the case where the cross section has a □ shape Shiba No. 4 will be explained in detail. In the case of other 3- and 8-cakes, the shape is defined in the same way, so Ajl'! Omit the description.

For the explanation of four leaves without trench, single thread f-lamesito II
The terms for all shapes will be explained based on FIG.

&i,' Figure 1 is a U-north view showing an example of a single yarn feed T'/nt used in the present invention. 1st m l-1, 1
-2, draw an inscribed circle passing through three arbitrary points of concavities a, b, 'c, and a, and call their maximum inscribed circle ”, and let the center of the □ circle of Ki be “0”. Process-like piece YI,' Y2. Y3. Y
4 fP is called a "leaf", and the point where a line drawn from the center O toward the tip of the leaf intersects the center of the tip of the leaf is 7+,
Let y2, y3, y4, center O and y+ + 12 *
The line 0:l'l*0near'2+07a+oy4 connecting 73+74 is called the leaf length β.

FIG. 2 is a side view showing an example of a specially textured false-twisted yarn used for the warp of the present invention, showing an untwisted portion (1) where real twist remains due to strong interleaving and an over-twisted portion (1). It has a twisted part <2) and a crimp part (3), which are present in a random manner in the long axis direction of the yarn. □ No. 81゛ζ is an enlarged ICji plane view of the untwisted part (1) in Figure 2), and the leaves of each single filament are deformed, meshing and intertwining like gears. 11. Even though the i-thread phyllanocytes are not intertwined, they are intertwined so that they do not separate easily.

Sweet, Figure 4 shows the over-untwisting part (2) of Figure 2;
It is a +r view, and as in the untwisted part (1), the leaves of the Vζδ single yarn ficit are deformed, and A...t5 is also connected to the south middle throat. , the confounding "about 17" is not shown in Figure 5.
In the Norm r plane view I-', each i1 yarn filament is completely deformed, but the reverse side is shown in 41.1- and k.

Figure 6 6-1 shows It/r of a single filament with an 8-lobe cross section.
ifrJf'shi, l, 6th F, /, l 6-2 is a single filament with a hexalobal cross section.The false twisted yarn used for the warp in the present invention has an irregular shape in which 10111 has a radial shape of 8 to 8th power. f(,1) from the 1D yarn filament of 1θ1 plane,
The untwisted fi:'+-4 natural part in the long axis direction of the yarn is formed by each filament landing on each other and converging by interlacing the leaves. It occupies 5% or more of the total yarn length.1.Note 1F, j outside wind 1
・For example, the throat of a LIi yarn filament with four lobes is formed into j, l, and i for easy viewing, or 1. ! Cross section J
l-: More than 712 types of single filaments with different shapes,
For example, it may be composed of a single filament having four lobes and a single filament having six lobes ff/f.

Book a +ui cy＞In order to exhibit the desired surface change and linen texture of the fabric, 1. It is necessary that there be 596 or more untwisted parts, and the untwisted part must be untwisted.
When pf15 is less than 595, the surface of the fabric changes or linen-like texture is obtained. Like the twisted part, it is thought to be involved in imparting a linen-like texture.

Additionally, the ratio of the crimped portion can be determined as the remaining amount after subtracting the untwisted portion, the wire bar, and the untwisted portion from the total.

Misfire, light 0. The false twisted yarn used for special style synthetic fibers preferably has an unraveled heat part of 8-35% and an over-untwisted part of 2-3 ()
%, and the crimp portion is 35 to 90%. Unsolved part a,
If it is less than 8%, the texture may become too dry, and if it exceeds 35%, the texture may become stiff. Similarly, if the over-resolution IFa' is less than 2%, the texture may become less crisp, and if it exceeds 30%, the texture may be too crisp. This is related to the fact that the crimp part sag (softness 4, 1), and if 9 1 1 li 8 is less than 85%, the texture will be stiff. If the rice is heated too much, the crispness may be lacking.

In the present invention, leaf intertwining means that the famous confectionery of Cimento deforms and interlocks with each other, as if adjacent leaves were glued together, so that they do not peel off easily and are sufficiently strong. It refers to the state of being entangled with each other. Furthermore, the strength of interlacing is at least 1/l (lΩr7'1)) x the fineness (
It is such that it will not peel and open even if it is subjected to a load of DJ's grams in the lengthwise direction.

The frequency with which untwisted portions occur due to the termination of leaf crossing is influenced by the cross-sectional shape of the single filament, but it also varies greatly depending on the false twisting conditions. In particular, the effects and effects of the twisting angle are large, and it is necessary to adopt conditions different from the generally adopted -1" conditions. The twist angle θ is 3fl↓ in the above formula (1), and false twisting is usually performed in the range of 44° to 45° or more.However, the advantage of the present invention is that:
□In order to have many untwisted parts, the twist angle should be 32°~
It is necessary to set the angle to 48°. If the yarn is outside the range of 596 or more leaves, untwisted parts due to interlacing of leaves of 596 or more will not occur, and the surface effect and linen-like texture of the fabric will not be obtained.

Further, the cross-sectional shape will be explained.

□The cross-sectional shape that makes the leaf entanglement more obvious requires that the leaves extend radially from the center and the number of leaves should be 8 to 8@, and circular, rod-shaped, and 9 or more leaves other than the edges will not cause the appearance of leaf entanglement. It is hardly seen, and the untwisted portion occurs in less than 5% in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Further, it is preferable that the leaves gradually become 111 as they go to the tip. If the number of leaves is 3 to 8, the angles between the leaves may not necessarily be equally spaced, and the center may be hollow. The irregular section modulus rL, expressed as the ratio of the radius γ of the central core to the leaf length β, is at least preferably at least half of the total number of leaves in a single filament from the one with the longest inner leaf length of a famous confection. When the above-mentioned range of irregular section modulus is satisfied, the lower limit of the range with ``i'' is less than the lower limit, that is, 7; when /γ is less than 2.0, the appearance of intertwining is almost eliminated, and the untwisted part becomes a yarn. If the length is less than 5% in the I+I+ direction, it will not be possible to obtain a linen-like special-looking synthetic fiber with the desired surface effect.
, Cru.゛However, if the upper limit is exceeded, that is, β/
When γ exceeds 6.5, it is difficult to obtain a stable yarn, and when it is obtained, leaf loss may occur during false twisting, and crystalline In addition, the angle formed by these two leaves is more than 40 degrees, which is clever, and the leaf length of the leaves below the top r4483 is also the highest. It is preferable that the leaf length be more than 1/2 of the length of the leaf.

Next, the height of the hemp VF special wind height will leak left and right depending on the aforementioned m1 surface shape and twisting. Therefore, when taking into account the synergistic effect with the leaf shape, etc., the single filament fineness is preferably 2 to 82 deniers. Furthermore, from the practical aspect of textiles, especially 5~
20 tenaires are performing. If the single yarn fineness is 2 tenier
In this case, it is often difficult to obtain a stable raw yarn during spinning. +11 yarn fineness is 32
If the denier is set to AYJλ, the value of the fabric may become poor due to excessive stiffness.

False twisting for the present invention: [The yarn is a polyester multifilament having the above-mentioned cross-sectional shape at a specific twist angle f1. The false twisting process is performed so that the temperature becomes t, and the temperature of the false twisting process is lower than that of the high welding sub-region. That is, the false twisting process is performed at a false twisting temperature at which the single filaments are not fused together.

Next, the second feature of the present invention (1" is that spun yarn is used as the weft yarn. In the present invention, spun yarn is used for 40% or more of the weft yarn. Appearance of the woven fabric.

In terms of texture, there is some surface fuzz (31) (it is extremely military-grade, synthetic glue #ll: even if you try to make linen-like fabrics with filler nont alone, it will only be unsatisfactory in terms of appearance and texture). In the present invention, at least 40% of the weft yarns are made into spun yarns, and L, ?3IJ
In addition to the crisp feel created by the warp made of special #r2 false-twisted yarn, it provides a texture and appearance similar to -S natural linen fabric.

Here, the spun yarn usually refers to the so-called stasol fi/(purchased from -N, L with cut fuzz), but it also refers to filament yarn V(, with forced fuzz formed). Includes J'L.Here, the material used for spun yarn does not matter, but it is mainly cotton that has excellent moisture absorption properties, considering the use and season. Alternatively, the proportion of spun yarn in the 0° weft should be at least 1 to 4 () volume%, and the proportion of spun yarn to the 0° weft must be at least 1 to 4 () volume%, and the proportion of spun yarn to the 0° weft must be at least 4 () volume%. If this is not met, the natural tone of the orgasm and Ta 1 view will be poor. The proportion of the spun yarn in the entire fabric varies depending on the fineness of the IW, etc., but for example, it is recommended to set the volume to about 96. The wefts may all be spun yarns, and the spun yarns and filaments Yarn C++9 twist yarn.

Composite yarn etc. may also be used.

Furthermore, the third feature of the present invention is that the weft 1 [
The diameter ratio is 0.9 to 17.

All woven fabrics using natural fibers have a rough and irregular surface.1. Even filament fabrics have irregularities on their surfaces. Natural fiber fabrics have a subtle texture due to the irregularities mentioned above. As is clear, observing and observing the warp of the textile structure and the intersecting state of the weft threads,
T2'43. Made of natural fibers. The material is red, and the intersection angle between the weft and weft is deep, but the woven fabric using synthetic fiber filaments does not have VF techniques, but the intersection angle between the warp and weft is shallow, and the fabric surface tends to be flat. be.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned special warp and weft are used, and the ratio of the weft diameter to the warp diameter is 0.9 to 1.
．． 7, the intersecting angle of the warp and 94 (p yarns) is deepened to create unevenness on the surface of the fabric. It is preferable to make the IYY diameter of the weft larger than the diameter of the warp, and by setting the ratio of the weft diameter to the warp diameter to 1.1 to 15, the intersection of the warp and weft can be achieved. The deeper the surface of the fabric, the more clearly the characteristics of the warp threads on the surface of the fabric can be expressed.

I can't feel it. On the other hand, it exceeds 1.7. 1: The elongation of the fabric is unbalanced or the characteristics of the warp are diminished, making it impossible to obtain the desired texture and appearance.

In the present invention, the diameters of the warp and weft are determined as follows:
1 to find the diameter 1, and 2 of the spun yarn (128), convert the nominal count to the English cotton count Nθ (7, denier - 5815/convert the denier by the count, and calculate the filament yarn and the spun blue yarn) The α diameter is determined as the sum of h1d.In this way, the ratio of the weft diameter to the warp diameter is determined from the -C obtained n/Y diameter d).

Calculate the weights of the weft, spun yarn and filament yarn (Ajr of each of the first Ajr, nominal tenier of No. 1-9), and calculate the 'jFj jf4 ratio from this weight.

In the present invention, as described above, the C untwisted part, the over untwisted part, and the untwisted part 115 are fused and (< 2) \ entangled. formed by fl-(
The warp is made of false twisted polyester filament yarn, which gives the fabric a soft and crisp feel.
You can create a hemp-like texture and appearance.

Since the false twisted yarn described above has not been worn for 151 hours, the fabric is level dyed f'i' and has excellent quality.

(Since more than 40% by weight of the weft is made up of spun yarn, the presence of the spun yarn does not give a crisp feel due to the warp, but also irregularities due to uneven thickness.) Te-
・It has a texture and texture similar to that of natural linen fabric. Historically, since the ratio of the 4 ('f) diameter to the warp diameter is 09 to 17, the intersection angle between the warp and weft can be deepened to form unevenness on the surface of the convex λ object, making it difficult to spin as a weft. Coupled with the presence of fluff in one yarn, it is possible to create a texture and appearance that is very close to that of natural linen fabric.Furthermore, as mentioned above, the warp yarn and Therefore, the disadvantages of natural linen fabrics such as shape stability, pleats, and washability can be improved.

The fabric of the present invention as described in - can be widely used not only in thick fabrics but also in soft fabrics.

(hereinafter), the present invention will be specifically described in Examples. I will clarify.

Example 1 A drawn yarn of polyethylene terephthalate malp filament 100 tenier/10 filament with a single filament having a cross-sectional shape of 8.4.6.8 lobes, the angle between the two lobes being equal, and the lobes having substantially the same length. False-twisting was carried out under the false-twisting conditions shown in 1. (2) These false-twisted threads were used as warp yarns. Using various spun yarns shown in Table 2 or intertwisted yarns of spun yarn and filament yarn as weft yarns, Table 11
The fabric was woven under the following conditions.The obtained fabric was scoured by a known method.

After dyeing and finishing, the material that satisfies the conditions of the present invention is one that has a moderate crispness and firmness, and has a texture and appearance that are very close to those of natural linen fabric. there were.

Table 1 [Note] In Table 2, Elo (70/80.,)84 S'
/1 is polyester □70%, #ii! It is a blended yarn of 80% and shows a fine count 84B' single yarn. Also, c(1
Otori 10) 80B'/IXKF'1Ot)ω is cotton 100
% fine count 80σ single yarn and ordinary polyester twisted yarn (1 denier) (25 (l T/M )). The same applies hereinafter.

The evaluation of textiles is based on the following 5 items, ranging from poor to poor, with a score of 1 to 5.・A total score of 21 to 25 points is A, 16
~20 points and 8115 points or less are C.

Fabric upholstery, waist...
The surface effect of the entire texture of synthetic fibers is 9 textures! Feeling of ll... Feeling of dullness... Feeling of fuzzyness Depth of color of fabric...................................................................1
Non-glitter effect of eye-catching fabric...
・Natural feel Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 was passed through a cross-shaped spinning hole at a spinning temperature of 288
°C, spinning speed 85 U (1 m;/in, β/′γ
A K-oriented multifilament of 246 denier/10 filaments with a four-lobed cross section of 8.5 was obtained.I-0 This yarn was processed into the following thread C using FK-608 manufactured by Barmarg Co., Ltd.
Stretching and false-twisting at '1' t: However, the untwisted part with 31: 26.8 ? , i, over 1 twist part 15.1%
, , Excellent crystalline OIU mixed in the lantum at a crimp portion 58.1% 0) ratio: C-like special texture special texture twisted yarn This special false twisted yarn was used as the warp yarn and was used as a cotton yarn in Table 3 Weaving (scouring and dyeing by known methods) under the conditions shown in Table 8 using threads of
! i Thread-like surface effect and hemp-like shihe-samai accentuated t
Can 4Lf: Fabric having the texture of type 2 textiles was obtained.

(Polyurethane yarn speed: 41υW/Friction surface speed/Yarn speed: 201mm Temperature: 215"C ☆Ji expansion ratio 1.785 Twisting angle I Song: E16.5°

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 shows the temporary addition used in the warp of the woven fabric of the present invention.
6-, i y. (1- is a cross-sectional view showing an example of yarn filament, No. 21; <
I shows an example of the false twisted yarn used for the warp of the fabric of the present invention (I'11 side view, ': rS 34, r'PX4 view and D m n IA bar Y 11° Fig. 2 Expansion 1
iJi W; + U:<l, phase 6 diagram is the present invention] d4*,
Thing (J,) Temporary 1 used for % yarn? ,; E to make 174 multi-filaments of M to obtain Jut yarn.
11J is a side view showing the other side of the thread filler.
1-2 6th cause-1-2

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) At least 1.41 yarns or filaments selected from among 3 to 8 radial cross-sectional shapes. It is a false-twisted yarn with a special irregular cross section of different types, and there are untwisted parts, over-untwisted parts, and crimped parts in the long sleeve direction of the yarn, and in the untwisted parts, each filament fuses with each other. The warp is a false-twisted yarn made of polyester multifilament that is formed by interlacing leaves without interlacing and accounts for 5% or more of the total yarn length, and the warp is a spun yarn that accounts for 4% or more of the weft. A special-looking synthetic fiber characterized by ζ having a weft diameter to diameter ratio of 0.9 to 1.7.