JP2023141061A - Method for manufacturing false twist yarn of acetate filament, false twist yarn, and woven fabric including the false twist yarn - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing false twist yarn of acetate filament, false twist yarn, and woven fabric including the false twist yarn Download PDFInfo
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 title claims abstract description 14
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 8
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 title description 5
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229920002284 Cellulose triacetate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- NNLVGZFZQQXQNW-ADJNRHBOSA-N [(2r,3r,4s,5r,6s)-4,5-diacetyloxy-3-[(2s,3r,4s,5r,6r)-3,4,5-triacetyloxy-6-(acetyloxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-6-[(2r,3r,4s,5r,6s)-4,5,6-triacetyloxy-2-(acetyloxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxan-2-yl]methyl acetate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1O[C@@H]([C@H]([C@H](OC(C)=O)[C@H]1OC(C)=O)O[C@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](OC(C)=O)[C@H](OC(C)=O)[C@@H](COC(C)=O)O1)OC(C)=O)COC(=O)C)[C@@H]1[C@@H](COC(C)=O)O[C@@H](OC(C)=O)[C@H](OC(C)=O)[C@H]1OC(C)=O NNLVGZFZQQXQNW-ADJNRHBOSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920006221 acetate fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000691 measurement method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- ILJSQTXMGCGYMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N triacetic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)CC(=O)CC(O)=O ILJSQTXMGCGYMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、アセテートフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の製造方法及びその仮撚加工糸、該仮撚加工糸を含む織物に関する。 The present invention relates to a method for producing a false-twisted yarn of acetate filaments, the false-twisted yarn, and a fabric containing the false-twisted yarn.
従来、アセテートフィラメント１００％糸は、無撚糸および撚糸での糸加工が主流であり、仮撚加工糸によるテキスタイル商品はあるものの、カサついた風合いとなっていた。また、アセテートフィラメントは強度が弱く、仮撚加工には手間がかかっていた。
一方でポリエステルフィラメントと合わせて仮撚加工を行っていたが、同色性等の問題から、複合後の撚り数を上げる必要があり、光沢、風合いが不十分であった。
特許文献１には、アセテート系繊維に仮撚加工を施す際に緊張処理を行い、ふくらみ感と製編織時に十分な物理特性を有する加工糸が開示されている
Conventionally, 100% acetate filament yarn has been mainly processed as untwisted yarn or twisted yarn, and although there are textile products made of false twisted yarn, they have a dry texture. Furthermore, acetate filaments have low strength and require a lot of effort to false twist.
On the other hand, false twisting was performed in combination with polyester filaments, but due to problems such as color constancy, it was necessary to increase the number of twists after composite, resulting in insufficient gloss and texture.
Patent Document 1 discloses a processed yarn that is subjected to tension treatment when false-twisting acetate fibers and has a fluffy feel and sufficient physical properties during weaving and knitting.
しかしながら、特許文献１に記載の加工糸は、ふくらみ感はでるものの、得られる織編物はドライ感が強いため、カサついた風合いになっている等の課題がある。 However, although the processed yarn described in Patent Document 1 has a fluffy feel, the resulting woven or knitted fabric has a strong dry feel, resulting in problems such as a dry texture.
本発明は、ふくらみ感と滑らかで手触りのよい風合いに優れた、アセテートフィラメント仮撚加工糸および該加工糸を含む織編物を提供することを目的とする。 An object of the present invention is to provide acetate filament false-twisted yarn and a woven or knitted fabric containing the textured yarn, which has an excellent fluffy feel and smooth texture.
本発明は、以下の態様を有する。
［１］総繊度が５０～１９０ｄｔｅｘかつ単繊維繊度が０．８～３ｄｔｅｘであるアセテートマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の製造方法であって、１ヒーターで仮撚した後、スチームセットを施す仮撚加工糸の製造方法。
［２］１ヒーターの温度が１６５～１９０℃である［１］に記載の仮撚加工糸の製造方法。
［３］スチームセットの温度が１００℃～１４０℃であり、時間が２０分～６０分である［１］または［２］に記載の仮撚加工糸の製造方法。
［４］総繊度が５０～１９０ｄｔｅｘ、単繊維繊度が０．８～３ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮率が０．２～５％であるアセテートマルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸。
［５］熱水収縮率が１．５％以下である［４］に記載の仮撚加工糸。
［６］［４］または［５］に記載の仮撚加工糸の含有率が４０質量％以上である織編物。
The present invention has the following aspects.
[1] A method for producing false twisted yarn of acetate multifilament having a total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex, which involves false twisting with one heater and then steam setting. Processed yarn manufacturing method.
[2] The method for producing false twisted yarn according to [1], wherein the temperature of one heater is 165 to 190°C.
[3] The method for producing false twisted yarn according to [1] or [2], wherein the temperature of the steam set is 100° C. to 140° C. and the time is 20 minutes to 60 minutes.
[4] Acetate multifilament false twisted yarn with a total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex, a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex, and a crimp rate of 0.2 to 5%.
[5] The false twisted yarn according to [4], which has a hot water shrinkage rate of 1.5% or less.
[6] A woven or knitted fabric in which the content of the false twisted yarn according to [4] or [5] is 40% by mass or more.
本発明の仮撚加工糸によれば、ふくらみ感と滑らかな心地よいソフトなタッチに優れる織編物を提供できる。 According to the false twisted yarn of the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric that has an excellent sense of fullness and a smooth and comfortable soft touch.
本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造方法は、総繊度が５０～１９０ｄｔｅｘかつ単繊維繊度が０．８～３ｄｔｅｘであるアセテートフィラメントの仮撚加工糸の製造方法であって、１ヒーターで仮撚した後スチームセットを施す。
総繊度が５０～１９０ｄｔｅｘであれば、仮撚工程での糸切れも少なく、加工性が良好にできる。
この観点から、前記総繊度は６０～１８０ｄｔｅｘが好ましく、８０～１７０ｄｔｅｘがより好ましい。
前記アセテートフィラメントは、ジアセテートフィラメント、トリアセテートフィラメントのどちらも使用するこが可能である。
The method for producing a false-twisted yarn of the present invention is a method for producing a false-twisted yarn of acetate filaments having a total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex, wherein the yarn is false-twisted with one heater. Afterward, apply a steam set.
If the total fineness is 50 to 190 dtex, there will be less yarn breakage during the false twisting process, and workability will be good.
From this point of view, the total fineness is preferably 60 to 180 dtex, more preferably 80 to 170 dtex.
As the acetate filament, either diacetate filament or triacetate filament can be used.
本発明の加工糸は、単繊維繊度が０．８～３ｄｔｅｘであることが好ましい。
単繊維繊度が０．８～３ｄｔｅｘであれば、仮撚工程での毛羽や糸切れも少なく、加工性が良好にでき、手触りがよくソフトな風合いにできる。
これらの観点から、前記単繊維繊度は、１．３～２．８ｄｔｅｘがより好ましく、１．７～２．６ｄｔｅｘがさらに好ましい。
The processed yarn of the present invention preferably has a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex.
If the single fiber fineness is 0.8 to 3 dtex, there will be less fuzz and yarn breakage during the false twisting process, and the processability will be good, giving it a nice and soft texture.
From these viewpoints, the single fiber fineness is more preferably 1.3 to 2.8 dtex, and even more preferably 1.7 to 2.6 dtex.
本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造方法は、１ヒーターで仮撚りを行うことが好ましい。
仮撚加工には１ヒーターと２ヒーターの条件があるが、１ヒーターにすることで、捲縮を低下させることなく、ふくらみ感を保持できる効果がある。
本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造方法は、１ヒーターの温度が１６５～１９０℃であることが好ましい。
In the method for producing a false-twisted yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the false-twisting is performed using one heater.
There are two conditions for false twisting: one heater and two heaters, but using one heater has the effect of maintaining fullness without reducing crimp.
In the method for producing false twisted yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the temperature of one heater is 165 to 190°C.
本加工糸の仮撚時の１ヒーター温度が１６５℃～１９０℃であることが好ましい。
温度が１６５℃以上であれば染色後の織編物にふくらみ感が得られ、１９０℃以下であれば毛羽や糸切れの発生が抑えられ安定的に生産が可能になる。
これらの観点から、前記１ヒーターの温度は１７０℃～１８５℃がより好ましい。
It is preferable that the temperature of one heater during false twisting of the processed yarn is 165°C to 190°C.
If the temperature is 165° C. or higher, the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing will have a fluffy feel, and if the temperature is 190° C. or lower, the occurrence of fuzz and thread breakage will be suppressed, allowing stable production.
From these viewpoints, the temperature of the one heater is more preferably 170°C to 185°C.
本発明の加工糸は、１ヒーターで仮撚した後にスチームセットを施すことが好ましい。
スチームセットを施すことで、染色加工後の織編物にふくらみ感が保持される。
The textured yarn of the present invention is preferably subjected to steam setting after false twisting using one heater.
By applying steam setting, the fullness of the woven or knitted fabric is maintained after dyeing.
本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造方法は、仮撚後のスチームセットの温度が１００℃～１４０℃で、時間が２０分～６０分であることが好ましい。
仮撚後のスチームセットの温度が１００℃であれば染色後の織編物にふくらみ感が得られ、１４０℃以下であれば糸の内外層差が抑えられ品位が安定する。
これらの観点から、仮撚後のスチームセット温度は、１１０℃以上がより好ましく、１２０℃以上がさらに好ましい。
スチームセットの時間は、２０分以上であれば、捲縮がセットされふくらみが維持し易く、６０分であれば、捲縮のセットが十分できる。
これらの観点から、スチームセットの時間は、３０～５５分がより好ましく。３５～５０分がさらに好ましい。
In the method for producing a false-twisted yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the temperature of the steam set after false-twisting is 100° C. to 140° C., and the time is 20 minutes to 60 minutes.
If the temperature of the steam set after false twisting is 100°C, the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing will have a fluffy feel, and if it is below 140°C, the difference between the inner and outer layers of the yarn will be suppressed and the quality will be stable.
From these viewpoints, the steam set temperature after false twisting is more preferably 110°C or higher, and even more preferably 120°C or higher.
If the steam setting time is 20 minutes or more, the crimp can be set and the puffiness can be easily maintained, and if the steam setting time is 60 minutes, the crimp can be sufficiently set.
From these viewpoints, the steam setting time is more preferably 30 to 55 minutes. More preferably 35 to 50 minutes.
本発明の仮撚加工糸は、総繊度が５０～１９０ｄｔｅｘ、単繊維繊度が０．８～３ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮率が０．２～５％であるアセテートフィラメントからなるものである。
総繊度が５０ｄｔｅｘ以上であれば、膨らみ感のある織編物を得ることができ、総繊度が１９０ｄｔｅｘ以下であれば、織編物が重くならず、滑らかな風合いが得られやすい。
これらの観点から、前記総繊度は６０～１８０ｄｔｅｘが好ましく、８０～１７０ｄｔｅｘがより好ましい。
また、単繊維繊度が０．８ｄｔｅｘ以上であれば、仮撚工程での毛羽や糸切れも少なく品位が安定する、単繊維繊度が３ｄｔｅｘ以下であれば、膨らみ感と滑らかな風合いが得られやすい。
これらの観点から、前記単繊維繊度は、１．３～２．８ｄｔｅｘがより好ましく、１．７～２．６ｄｔｅｘがさらに好ましい。
The false twisted yarn of the present invention is made of acetate filaments having a total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex, a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex, and a crimp rate of 0.2 to 5%.
If the total fineness is 50 dtex or more, a woven or knitted fabric with a puffy feel can be obtained, and if the total fineness is 190 dtex or less, the woven or knitted fabric will not be heavy and a smooth texture will be easily obtained.
From these viewpoints, the total fineness is preferably 60 to 180 dtex, more preferably 80 to 170 dtex.
In addition, if the single fiber fineness is 0.8 dtex or more, there will be less fuzz or yarn breakage during the false twisting process, and the quality will be stable.If the single fiber fineness is 3 dtex or less, it will be easier to obtain a full and smooth texture. .
From these viewpoints, the single fiber fineness is more preferably 1.3 to 2.8 dtex, and even more preferably 1.7 to 2.6 dtex.
本発明の仮撚加工糸は、捲縮率が０．２～５％であることが好ましい。
捲縮率が０．２～５％であれば、滑らかなソフトな風合いとふくらみ感が良好な織編物が得られる。
この観点から、捲縮率は０．５～４．５％がより好ましく、１．０～３．５％がさらに好ましい。
The false twisted yarn of the present invention preferably has a crimp ratio of 0.2 to 5%.
When the crimp ratio is 0.2 to 5%, a woven or knitted fabric with a smooth, soft texture and a good sense of fullness can be obtained.
From this point of view, the crimp rate is more preferably 0.5 to 4.5%, and even more preferably 1.0 to 3.5%.
本発明の仮撚加工糸は、熱水収縮率が１．５％以下であることが好ましい。
熱水収縮率が１．５％以下であれば、収縮によるカサつき感が抑えられソフトな風合いが得られやすい。
The false twisted yarn of the present invention preferably has a hot water shrinkage rate of 1.5% or less.
If the hot water shrinkage rate is 1.5% or less, the feeling of dryness due to shrinkage can be suppressed and a soft texture can be easily obtained.
本発明の織編物は、前記仮撚加工糸の含有率が４０質量％以上であることが好ましい。
前記仮撚加工糸の含有率が４０質量％以上であれば、風合いがソフトでふくらみ感があり、アセテート繊維独特の光沢を有しやすい。
この観点から、前記仮撚加工糸の含有率は６０質量％以上が好ましく、８０質量％以上がより好ましく、１００質量％がさらに好ましい。
しかしながら、所望の風合いを得るために、他の素材と組み合わせることもできる。
組合せの糸素材としては、ポリエステルやナイロンなどの合成繊維、レーヨンやキュプラなどの再生繊維、綿、麻、ウール、シルクなどの天然繊維が挙げられる。
In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the content of the false twisted yarn is preferably 40% by mass or more.
If the content of the false-twisted yarn is 40% by mass or more, the texture will be soft and fluffy, and it will tend to have the unique luster of acetate fibers.
From this viewpoint, the content of the false twisted yarn is preferably 60% by mass or more, more preferably 80% by mass or more, and even more preferably 100% by mass.
However, it can also be combined with other materials to obtain the desired texture.
Examples of the combination thread materials include synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, recycled fibers such as rayon and cupro, and natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk.
（仮撚加工糸の製造方法）
本発明の仮撚加工糸を製造する条件は、仮撚する糸のフィード率を－５％以上、１％未満で行うのが望ましい。
－５％以上のフィード率で仮撚を行うことで糸の走行性が安定する。また、１％以下のフィード率にすることで、毛羽や糸切れの発生が少なくなる。
また仮撚数は、１１０００×Ｄ－１／２≦Ｔ≦２８０００×Ｄ－１／２（Ｄ：単繊維繊度（ｄｔｅｘ））とすることが望ましい。仮撚数が１１０００×Ｄ－１／２以上であれば毛羽や糸切れの発生が抑えられ、２８０００×Ｄ－１／２以下であれば十分なふくらみ感が得られる。
さらには、巻取りのオーバーフィード率を３．０％～９．０％とすることが望ましい。
巻取りのオーバーフィード率が３．０％以上で行うことによりスチームセットによる内外層差を少なくすることができ、９．０％以下で行うことにより織編物の生産工程での糸解舒性が安定する。
(Method for manufacturing false twisted yarn)
The conditions for producing the false twisted yarn of the present invention are preferably such that the feed rate of the yarn to be false twisted is -5% or more and less than 1%.
By performing false twisting at a feed rate of -5% or more, the runnability of the yarn is stabilized. Furthermore, by setting the feed rate to 1% or less, the occurrence of fuzz and thread breakage is reduced.
Further, the number of false twists is preferably 11,000×D-1/2≦T≦28,000×D-1/2 (D: single fiber fineness (dtex)). If the number of false twists is 11,000 x D-1/2 or more, the occurrence of fuzz and thread breakage can be suppressed, and if it is 28,000 x D-1/2 or less, a sufficient fullness can be obtained.
Furthermore, it is desirable that the overfeed rate of winding is 3.0% to 9.0%.
By carrying out winding with an overfeed rate of 3.0% or more, the difference between the inner and outer layers due to steam setting can be reduced, and by carrying out winding with an overfeed rate of 9.0% or less, yarn unwinding property in the production process of woven or knitted products can be improved. Stabilize.
（捲縮率の測定方法）
ワク周１ｍの検尺器を用い、０．０１ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘの荷重下で１０回巻き１０ｍのカセを作る。前記カセを、９０℃の熱水中にて２０分間処理を行った後、温度２０℃、湿度６５％の条件下で、自由な状態で２４時間乾燥する。乾燥した試料に、１．９６ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘの荷重をかけ、１分間経過後の長さＬ１（ｃｍ）を測定する。次いで、荷重を除去して無荷重の状態で２分間放置する。その後、０．０４ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘの荷重をかけ、１分後経過後の長さＬ２（ｃｍ）を測定し、次式を用いて捲縮率を算出した。この測定を５回実施し、その平均値で表した。
捲縮率（％）＝（（Ｌ１－Ｌ２）／Ｌ１）×１００
(Measurement method of crimp rate)
Using a measuring device with a circumference of 1 m, wrap the material 10 times under a load of 0.01 cN/dtex to make a 10 m long skein. The skein is treated in hot water at 90° C. for 20 minutes, and then dried in a free state for 24 hours at a temperature of 20° C. and a humidity of 65%. A load of 1.96 cN/dtex is applied to the dried sample, and the length L1 (cm) is measured after 1 minute has elapsed. Then, the load was removed and the sample was left unloaded for 2 minutes. Thereafter, a load of 0.04 cN/dtex was applied, and the length L2 (cm) after 1 minute was measured, and the crimp rate was calculated using the following formula. This measurement was performed five times and expressed as the average value.
Crimp rate (%) = ((L1-L2)/L1) x 100
（熱水収縮率の測定方法）
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１３ 熱水寸法変化率 に準ずる。
(Method for measuring hot water shrinkage rate)
Conforms to JIS L 1013 Hydrothermal Dimensional Change Rate.
（実施例１）
セルローストリアセテート繊維フィラメント糸（三菱ケミカル社製、ブライト１１０ｄｔｅｘ／６４フィラメント（ｆ）、単糸菊型断面、水分率３．５％）にヒーター温度１７５℃で仮撚加工を施し、仮撚加工糸の糸を得た。得られた糸に１１７℃で４０分のスチームセットを行った。得られた加工糸は繊度が１１１ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮率２．９％、熱水収縮率－０．４％であった。この加工糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、ツイル組織の織物を製織した。
この生機を常法により精練、染色後、セットを施し、経糸密度１４２本／吋、緯糸密度８６本／吋に仕上げた。
得られた織物は、風合いがソフトで膨らみ感があり、セルロース系繊維由来の爽やかな心地のよいものであった。また、この織物はシルク織物調の高級感に富んだ優雅な艶を有するものであった。
(Example 1)
Cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, bright 110 dtex/64 filament (f), single thread chrysanthemum-shaped cross section, moisture content 3.5%) was false-twisted at a heater temperature of 175°C, and the false-twisted yarn was Got the thread. The obtained yarn was steam set at 117° C. for 40 minutes. The resulting processed yarn had a fineness of 111 dtex, a crimp rate of 2.9%, and a hot water shrinkage rate of -0.4%. This processed yarn was used for the warp and weft to weave a twill fabric.
After scouring and dyeing this gray fabric in a conventional manner, it was set to a warp density of 142 threads/inch and a weft thread density of 86 threads/inch.
The resulting fabric had a soft texture, a puffy feel, and a refreshing and comfortable feel derived from cellulose fibers. In addition, this fabric had a luxurious and elegant luster similar to silk fabric.
（実施例２）
実施例１で用いた加工糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、平の織物を製織した。
この生機を常法により精練、染色後、セットを施し、経糸密度９０本／吋、緯糸密度７５本／吋に仕上げた。
得られた織物は、風合いがソフトで膨らみ感があり、セルロース系繊維由来の爽やかな心地のよいものであった。また、この織物はスパンシルク織物調の高級感に富んだ優雅な艶を有するものであった。
(Example 2)
A plain woven fabric was woven using the processed yarn used in Example 1 for the warp and weft.
After scouring and dyeing this gray fabric in a conventional manner, it was set to a warp density of 90/inch and a weft density of 75/inch.
The resulting fabric had a soft texture, a puffy feel, and a refreshing and comfortable feel derived from cellulose fibers. In addition, this fabric had a luxurious and elegant luster similar to spun silk fabric.
（実施例３）
実施例１で用いた加工糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、サテン組織の織物を製織した。
この生機を常法により精練、染色後、セットを施し、経糸密度１７５本／吋、緯糸密度８５本／吋に仕上げた。
得られた織物は、風合いがソフトで膨らみ感があり、セルロース系繊維由来の爽やかな心地のよいものであった。また、この織物はシルク織物調の高級感に富んだ優雅な艶を有するものであった。
(Example 3)
A woven fabric with a satin structure was woven using the processed yarn used in Example 1 for the warp and weft.
After scouring and dyeing this gray fabric in a conventional manner, it was set to a warp density of 175/inch and a weft density of 85/inch.
The resulting fabric had a soft texture, a puffy feel, and a refreshing and comfortable feel derived from cellulose fibers. In addition, this fabric had a luxurious and elegant luster similar to silk fabric.
（実施例４）
仮撚加工糸に１３０℃で４０分のスチームセットを行った以外は実施例１と同様な方法で加工糸を得た。得られた加工糸は繊度が１１２ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮率２．９％、熱水収縮率－０．３％であった。この加工糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、ツイル組織の織物を製織した。
この生機を常法により精練、染色後、セットを施し、経糸密度１４０本／吋、緯糸密度８３本／吋に仕上げた。
得られた織物は、風合いがソフトでより膨らみ感があり、セルロース系繊維由来の爽やかな心地のよいものであった。また、この織物はシルク織物調の高級感に富んだ優雅な艶を有するものであった。
(Example 4)
A textured yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the false twisted yarn was steam set at 130° C. for 40 minutes. The obtained processed yarn had a fineness of 112 dtex, a crimp rate of 2.9%, and a hot water shrinkage rate of -0.3%. This processed yarn was used for the warp and weft to weave a twill fabric.
After scouring and dyeing this gray fabric in a conventional manner, it was set to a warp density of 140 threads/inch and a weft thread density of 83 threads/inch.
The resulting woven fabric had a soft texture and a feeling of fullness, and was refreshing and comfortable due to its origin from cellulose fibers. In addition, this fabric had a luxurious and elegant luster similar to silk fabric.
（比較例１）
セルローストリアセテート繊維フィラメント糸（三菱ケミカル社製、ブライト８４ｄｔｅｘ／２０フィラメント（ｆ）、単糸菊型断面、水分率３．５％）にヒーター温度１７０℃で仮撚加工を施し、仮撚加工糸の糸を得た。得られた糸に１３０℃で４０分のスチームセットを行った。得られた加工糸は繊度が８５ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮率０．６％、熱水収縮率０．０％であった。この加工糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、ツイル組織の織物を製織した。
この生機を常法により精練、染色後、セットを施し、経糸密度１６５本／吋、緯糸密度９８本／吋に仕上げた。
得られた織物は、単繊維繊度が大きいため、膨らみ感はあるものの、風合いにカサツキがあるものであった。
(Comparative example 1)
Cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, bright 84 dtex/20 filament (f), single thread chrysanthemum-shaped cross section, moisture content 3.5%) was false-twisted at a heater temperature of 170°C to create a false-twisted yarn. Got the thread. The obtained yarn was steam set at 130° C. for 40 minutes. The obtained processed yarn had a fineness of 85 dtex, a crimp rate of 0.6%, and a hot water shrinkage rate of 0.0%. This processed yarn was used for the warp and weft to weave a twill fabric.
After scouring and dyeing this gray fabric in a conventional manner, it was set to a warp density of 165/inch and a weft density of 98/inch.
The obtained woven fabric had a large single fiber fineness, so although it had a feeling of swelling, it had a rough texture.
Claims (6)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2022047194A JP2023141061A (en) | 2022-03-23 | 2022-03-23 | Method for manufacturing false twist yarn of acetate filament, false twist yarn, and woven fabric including the false twist yarn |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2022047194A JP2023141061A (en) | 2022-03-23 | 2022-03-23 | Method for manufacturing false twist yarn of acetate filament, false twist yarn, and woven fabric including the false twist yarn |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2023141061A true JP2023141061A (en) | 2023-10-05 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2022047194A Pending JP2023141061A (en) | 2022-03-23 | 2022-03-23 | Method for manufacturing false twist yarn of acetate filament, false twist yarn, and woven fabric including the false twist yarn |
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| Country | Link |
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| JP (1) | JP2023141061A (en) |
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