JPS6238453B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a specially processed yarn with a strong twist, and more specifically, it is made of filament yarn containing thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and when knitted into a fabric, it has excellent drape properties and a soft and silky feel. The present invention relates to a highly twisted specially processed yarn that has a tactile feel and has intermittent wavy portions in appearance. In recent years, consumer preferences for clothing fabrics using filament yarns have become more luxurious in terms of feel and appearance, and there has been a strong demand for drapability and a soft, silky feel as elements of luxury. Highly twisted yarns have traditionally been used as a means to obtain fabrics with drapability and a silky feel. However, these highly twisted yarns are more than 1000T/M and usually 2000~
Since it requires actual twisting of 3000 T/M, productivity is extremely low and processing costs are also high. Furthermore, in terms of feel, since it is simply a filament yarn with a strong twist, it has a smooth feel only due to the unevenness caused by twisting, which is different from the soft smooth feeling that is required. It was hot. Furthermore, although the uniform yarns characteristic of filament yarns are of course disliked in terms of appearance, the yarns that emphasize the thick threads of conventional knotted yarns have also come to be disliked. That is, there has been a strong desire for a yarn that has a slight change in appearance in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, has a more natural feel, and has the above-mentioned texture. The object of the present invention is to provide a yarn that can be woven into fabrics that have a soft, silky feel that cannot be obtained with conventional high-twist yarns and has drapability, and that has an appearance that is intermittent in the longitudinal direction. To provide a highly twisted specially processed yarn having corrugated parts and full of natural taste, and which can be obtained with higher productivity than conventional highly twisted yarn. It has the following configuration to achieve this purpose. That is, the present invention provides a twisted yarn of two or more yarns, at least one of which is a false twisted yarn having an alternating twist of S and Z. The twisted yarn is twisted in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction of the twisted yarn, and the twisted convergence part is twisted in the false twisting direction of the false twisted yarn that has S and Z alternating twists. The bundled portion is slightly untwisted by twisting in a direction opposite to the twisting direction, and is wound spirally, and the twisted yarn has a twist in a direction opposite to the direction of false twisting due to the twisting. This is a highly twisted specially processed yarn in which the untwisted and converged portions are further converged and waveform portions are intermittently formed throughout the yarn. The present invention will be explained in more detail below. The highly twisted special textured yarn of the present invention is schematically shown in FIG. The corrugated part A which is twisted and wound spirally and the untwisted converging part 2 of the false twisted yarn 1 are firmly twisted and the filament yarn 4 is wound around the untwisted converging part 2. Alternatively, the non-wavy portions B are alternately twisted and converged in a mutually twisted state. As shown in FIG. 2, the false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists used in the present invention is composed of a twisted convergence part 3 having twists in the same direction as the false-twisting direction and a twisting part 3 having twists in the same direction as the false-twisting direction, and a false-twisted yarn having twists in the same direction as the false-twisting direction. It has alternately untwisted and convergent parts 2 having a twist of The false twist and twist are untwisted without twisting, crimps are added, and then over-untwisted and bundled, so it looks thick and bulky.
In addition, the length of each of the twisted and focused portions 3 and the untwisted and focused portions 2 is 10 mm or more. The highly twisted specially textured yarn of the present invention is made by combining a false twisted yarn having alternate twists of S and Z with another filament yarn, or by twisting the false twisted yarn together in a direction opposite to the false twisting direction of the false twisted yarn. It can only be obtained by combining and twisting the S and Z twists, which are characterized by relatively uniform twists in a strong twist tone, and intermittently have corrugated and non-corrugated sections in the longitudinal direction. It is a yarn having alternating sections, and its manufacturing principle is a skillful application of the characteristics of the false twisted yarn and the effect of plying. Considering this manufacturing principle, when observing the case where a false twisted yarn having alternate S and Z twists and another filament yarn are combined and twisted, it is found that the twisting direction is the same as the false twisting direction of the false twisted yarn. The twisted condensing part having a shape is thinned by fusion between filaments, and when twisted in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction, the part produces an untwisting action and the fusion between filaments is broken. At the same time as it receives a slight defibration effect, the length of the thread in the relevant part becomes longer,
It wraps around the filament yarn as a core, giving it a wavy yarn shape. In addition, the untwisted and convergent portion of the false-twisted yarn has a twist opposite to the false-twisting direction, and is bulky. False twisted yarn with uneven thickness in the longitudinal direction due to additional twisting, thinning, convergence, and twisting shrinkage, and filament yarns are wound around the false twisted yarn as a core or twisted together. Due to the twisting action, the fused convergent part becomes thicker and the bulky convergent part becomes thinner, and the yarn as a whole has relatively little unevenness in thickness, and S and Z twists have relatively even twists. Moreover, the yarn has a wavy yarn shape due to the intermittent winding of the twisted and converging portion around the filament yarn. In the highly twisted special textured yarn of the present invention, the untwisted and converged portion of the false twisted yarn is additionally twisted by combining and twisting, the bulkiness is removed, and this portion becomes highly twisted, and the untwisted and converged portion of the false twisted yarn is further twisted. Since the yarn length is increased by winding the yarn in a spiral shape using another yarn as a core yarn, it is essential to twist the yarn with another yarn. However, even if it is combined with another yarn, if it is combined and twisted in the same direction as the false-twisting direction of the false-twisted processed yarn, the bulky untwisted and concentrated part will be subjected to more fibrillation action and will swell. When woven or knitted, it lacks drapability and does not result in a highly twisted specially processed yarn as intended by the present invention. Furthermore, the twisted bundled part of the false twisted processed yarn having the S/Z alternate twist used for producing the highly twisted special processed yarn of the present invention is fused and bundled, and the untwisted bundled part is similar to most single filament yarns. The false twisted yarn is untwisted without being fused, crimped and bundled, so it looks thick and bulky. It is necessary that there be a converging section and an untwisting converging section. That is, unless the length of the part concerned is 10 mm or more, no effective strong twisting effect can be obtained. The length of the waveform part is 20~
A range of 100mm is effective. For example, under normal false-twisting conditions where the overfeed rate in the false-twisting zone is set to 5% or less, in the case of false-twisted yarn with alternating S and Z twists obtained by only increasing the heater temperature, twist convergence is required. The degree of fusion between the twisting section and the untwisting/converging section is about the same, and the length of each of the twisting/converging section and the untwisting/converging section cannot be greater than 10 mm. In order to obtain the false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists for use in the present invention, false-twisting is performed at extremely high temperatures and under high overfeed, which are not normally employed compared to conventional false-twisting conditions. That is, a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is supplied to the false twisting region at a high overfeed rate of at least 5%, preferably 15% or more, and false twisting is performed at a temperature from near the softening point to below the melting point of the yarn. obtained by. Furthermore, if the torque of the false-twisted yarn is strong enough to cause cracks in the twisting process, or if the surface shape of the knitted fabric is to be made smoother, the false-twisted yarn may be subjected to relaxation heat treatment. Good too. If appropriate treatment conditions are adopted, the relaxing heat treatment will not reduce the strong twist effect, but rather will eliminate the rough and hard feeling, and will provide an effective high twist effect. By appropriately selecting false-twisting and combination-twisting conditions in producing the specially processed yarn with a strong twist effect of the present invention, a yarn exhibiting an effective strong twist effect can be obtained.
That is, when obtaining a false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists, high overfeed processing increased the unevenness of the fused portion in the longitudinal direction, making the twisted bundle portion thinner. In addition, the untwisted and converged part can be made into a bulkier non-fused part. Further, high overfeed processing lengthens the untwisted and focused portion and at the same time lengthens the twisted and focused portion. In addition, increasing the heater temperature increases the length of the twisted convergence section. The length of the twisted and focused portion determines the length of the corrugated portion, and the length of the untwisted and focused portion determines the length of the non-corrugated portion. The number of twists corresponds to the number of false twists of the false twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists, and if it is too small, the effect will be reduced. In other words, the number of twists remaining in the twisted bundle of the false-twisted yarn is the same overall as the number of twists remaining in the twisted bundle, but as mentioned above, the length of the twisted bundle is different from the length of the twisted bundle. Each of the twisting and convergence parts is shorter than the twisted convergence part depending on the conditions, and therefore, when viewed locally, the twisting convergence part has fewer twists per unit length and is bulkier. Therefore, in order to reduce thickness unevenness and have relatively even twists in the S and Z twists as intended by the present invention, the number of false twists should be increased to T.
(T/M), the total number of twists S (T/M) is T/
15≦S≦T is appropriate, preferably T/10≦S
The fineness of the false-twisted yarn with alternating twists of S and Z and the fineness of another yarn to be combined and twisted can be adjusted to a number of twists of ≦T/2. The effect of strong twist becomes more pronounced when the fineness of the yarn is made finer to increase the difference in fineness. In addition, in order to make the fabric obtained by weaving and knitting the yarn of the present invention remarkable in its drapability and soft, silky feel, it is better to use a yarn with a small single filament fineness. It is preferable to use a false twisted yarn composed of filaments of 5 deniers or less, preferably 3 deniers or less. In addition, synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is suitable as another yarn to be combined and twisted with the false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists, and drawn yarn or semi-drawn yarn (so-called POY) can be used. , those that have been further subjected to false twist crimping, or those that have been subjected to crimping such as push crimping or gear crimping can be used. Furthermore, recycled cellulose fibers such as rayon and acetate can also be used. As described above, the specially processed highly twisted yarn of the present invention differs from conventional highly twisted filament yarns, which have a smooth texture due to the irregularities of the twisted yarns, due to the unevenness of the twisted yarn, but the fibers are once fused together like the twisted convergence part. By having separate bundles of filaments of fibers that have undergone changes in their internal structure, it exhibits a unique soft and silky feel, unlike the coarse and silky feel of conventional high-twist yarns. It is possible to
In addition, it has a slight apparent change in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and when made into a knitted fabric, it is possible to obtain an elegant strong twist effect that gives an elegant and delicate feel. Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Example 1 Polyester multifilament (polyethylene terephthalate filament) 150D/72F was false-twisted under the false-twisting conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists.

【table】

[Table] The obtained false twisted yarn and polyester filament raw yarn 75D/36F were twisted in the S direction at 500 T/M using a twisting machine DTB manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho. The obtained yarn has the form shown in Figure 1, and the average length of the Z-twist convergence part (waveform part) is about 30 mm, and the maximum length is
70mm, average length of S-twist condensed part (non-corrugated part) is approximately 50mm
mm, and the maximum length was 90 mm, making it possible to obtain the highly twisted specially processed yarn intended by the present invention. The obtained yarns were woven into a plain weave with a warp and weft of 50 threads/inch and 48 threads/inch, and were dyed, subjected to alkali weight reduction treatment, and finished. A fabric was obtained that was rich in drapability and a soft, silky feel, and had a unique and desirable surface morphology different from that of a uniform filament fabric. Example 2 Polyester multifilament 200D/96F was false-twisted under the false-twisting conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists. Obtained false twisted yarn and rayon filament yarn
70D/36F were twisted in the S direction at 750T/M using a twisting machine DTB made by Ishikawa Seisakusho. The average length of the Z-twist convergence part (waveform part) of the obtained yarn is about 20 mm, the maximum length is 40 mm, and the average length of the S-twist convergence part (non-wavy part) is about 40 mm, the maximum length is 83 mm. Becomes the property of

【table】

[Table] It was possible to obtain a highly twisted specially processed yarn as intended by the present invention. The obtained yarn is warp 44/inch, weft 43
When woven into a plain weave with a grain/inch diameter, dyed with a disperse dye, treated with alkali weight reduction, and finished, a fabric with a weighty feel and a favorable surface morphology with excellent drapability and a soft, silky feel is obtained. In addition, rayon left a white residue, and had a desirable texture that was a mixture of the soft texture of rayon and the firm texture of polyester. Example 3 Polyester multifilament 75D/72F was false-twisted under the false-twisting conditions shown in Table 3 to obtain a false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists. Obtained false twisted yarn and polyester yarn 30D/
12F was twisted in the S direction at 1000T/M using a twisting machine DTB made by Ishikawa Seisakusho. The average length of the Z-twist convergence part (waveform part) of the obtained yarn is about 20 mm, and the maximum length is
40mm, average length of S-twist condensed part (non-corrugated part) is approximately 45mm
mm, and the maximum length was 80 mm, making it possible to obtain the highly twisted specially processed yarn intended by the present invention.

[Table] Circular knitting machine (Osumi Morato M-48) using the obtained yarn
When the knitted fabric was knitted into a Motsuku Milano rib structure and dyed, a knitted fabric with a weighty feel and a desirable surface morphology rich in drapability and a soft and smooth feel was obtained. Example 4 Polyester multifilament 100D/96F was false-twisted under the false-twisting conditions shown in Table 4 to obtain a false-twisted yarn having alternating S and Z twists.

[Table] The obtained false twisted yarn and polyester filament raw yarn 50D/48F were twisted in the S direction at 600 T/M using a twisting machine DTB manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho. The average length of the Z-twist convergence part (waveform part) of the obtained yarn is approximately 25
mm, the maximum length is 50 mm, the average length of the S-twist condensed part (non-corrugated part) is about 35 mm, and the maximum length is 70 mm, making it possible to obtain the highly twisted specially processed yarn intended by the present invention. Ta. The obtained yarn is passed through a circular knitting machine.
It was organized into a tack tissue using I3p), and stained and finished. The obtained knitted fabric had a favorable feel with a rich feel of weight and drapability as well as a soft and crisp feel.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a highly twisted specially processed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a false twisted processed yarn having S/Z alternating twists used in the highly twisted specially processed yarn of the present invention. It is a schematic diagram. 1; False twisted yarn having S/Z alternating twists; 2; Untwisted and converged portion; 3; Twisted and converged portion; 4; Multifilament yarn.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A twisted yarn of two or more yarns, at least one of which is a false twisted yarn having an alternating twist of S and Z, the twisted yarn being a false twisted yarn having an alternating twist of S and Z. The twisted bundle part of the false-twisted yarn is twisted in the opposite direction to the false-twisting direction, and has S and Z alternating twists. The untwisted bundled part of the false-twisted yarn is slightly untwisted and spirally wound by the combined twisting, and the untwisted bundled part has a twist in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction due to the combined twisting. A highly twisted specially processed yarn in which the fibers are further bundled to form intermittent wave-shaped portions throughout the yarn.