JP2010031428A - Worsted-tone filament woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a worsted-tone filament woven fabric providing shadow feeling owing to fine dye-unevennesses when dyed, thus giving deep-dyed-expression, and having gloss of sophisticated feeling, excellent color developability, touch of rich refreshing cool feeling, and moderate hygroscopicity. <P>SOLUTION: The worsted-tone filament woven fabric comprises, as wefts, air-entangled yarns of cellulosic filament yarns of 8% or less in official moisture content and elastic polyester yarns, and, as warps, composite yarns of cellulosic filament yarns of 8% or less in official moisture content and cellulosic filament yarns or false-twist textured polyester yarns greater than 8% in official moisture content. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  [Technical Field] The present invention relates to a lash-like filament woven fabric that gives a fine dyeing feeling when dyed, has a high-grade luster, excellent color developability, a refreshing texture, and moderate moisture absorption.

  Conventionally, as a woven fabric that gives a feeling of dyeing when dyed or woven, it is composed of yarns with fineness unevenness in the yarn length direction at the production stage or processing stage of synthetic fiber filament yarn, and space dying on the yarn And yarns made of yarns with different dyeability, yarns made of mixed yarns or entangled yarns, etc. are known. Since these colors emphasize the feeling of staining by shading and multiple colors, they are suitable for casual use and unsuitable for formal use.

  On the other hand, an eyelash-like woven fabric using polyester filament yarn has been developed. Combined with the improvement of dark color processing technology, a good black color is obtained, and this is often used for black formal use. It has problems such as hardness, waxy feeling, metallic luster, and dull feeling derived from the high Young's modulus, high refractive index, and low hygroscopicity peculiar to filament yarns.

  The object of the present invention is to give a feeling of shading due to minute stains when dyed, and to obtain a deeply dyed expression, high-quality gloss, excellent color development, refreshing texture, moderate An object of the present invention is to provide an eyelash-like filament fabric having hygroscopicity.

  The gist of the present invention is a composite comprising an air entangled yarn of a cellulose-based filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and a polyester elastic yarn as the weft, and a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less as the warp. It is in a lash-like filament woven fabric composed of yarn.

  According to the present invention, the eyelash-like filament woven fabric can give a deep dyeing expression by giving a shaded feeling due to minute dyeing when dyed, and has a high-class luster, excellent color development, and refreshing feeling. It has a rich texture, moderate hygroscopicity, and gives a comfortable wearing feeling.

  In the present invention, the cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less, which is one component of the air entangled yarn used for the weft, is a regenerated fiber or semi-synthetic fiber filament yarn made from cellulose. Often, examples of the regenerated fiber include viscose rayon and lyocell, and examples of the semisynthetic fiber include cellulose diacetate fiber and cellulose triacetate fiber. These types and production methods are not particularly limited, and the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, gloss, fineness, etc. of the single fiber are not particularly limited, and can be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the textile expression in the intended use. That's fine.

  In particular, in the present invention, the cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less, which is a constituent component of the air entangled yarn used for the weft, has a vividness, color developability and high-grade gloss due to its low refractive index. Cellulose diacetate fiber with an official moisture content of 6.5% due to its moderate Young's modulus, heat-setting properties, moderate hygroscopicity and quick-drying, and low boiling water shrinkage of about 2-3%. A cellulose acetate filament yarn such as a cellulose triacetate fiber having a moisture content of 3.5% is preferable, and a cellulose triacetate filament yarn is more preferable from the viewpoint of texture and glossiness.

  In the present invention, when the cellulosic filament yarn constituting the weft exceeds the official moisture content of 8%, shrinkage due to water swellability becomes a problem, and problems such as washing shrinkage, shape stability, wet fastness, high water retention and high speed. Problems such as inferior dryness occur, and the shrinkage during the dyeing process increases greatly, making it difficult to express.

  The polyester-based elastic yarn that is the other component of the air entangled yarn is a yarn that exhibits elasticity depending on the form of the fiber or the structure of the fiber. For example, two types of polyethylene terephthalate with different heat shrinkability are bonded to the side-by-side type. Latent crimped polyester composite filament yarn that is coiled by heating with a structured structure, and actual crimped polyester filament yarn that is coiled by release from parn or cheese, etc., using polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate on one side Examples thereof include latent crimped polyester composite filament yarn or a false twisted yarn of a laminated structure with polyethylene terephthalate. The cross-sectional shape, surface shape, gloss, fineness, stretchability, dyeability, etc. of the single fiber of the polyester elastic yarn are not particularly limited.

  By using polyester-based elastic yarn as a constituent component, moderate stretchability is imparted to the woven fabric, the sewability and the feeling of wear are improved, and the feeling of elasticity, resilience, and swelling is imparted. There is also a mixed fiber effect, and a good eyelash-like texture can be obtained. In addition, when dyed due to the difference in glossiness and swelling caused by the difference in crimp between polyester-based elastic yarn and cellulose-based filament yarn, it gives a slight dyeing feeling and gives a deep dyeing expression, resulting in an elegant eyelash tone. A woven fabric is obtained.

  The air entangled yarn in the present invention is used as it is without being twisted, so that the color difference between the cellulose-based filament yarn and the polyester-based elastic yarn and the dyeing sensation due to the difference in gloss are very small and deep. It is necessary for obtaining a dyed expression, and is also suitable for obtaining a texture rich in elasticity. When weaving, if cellulose filament yarn and polyester elastic yarn are driven as weft without being entangled as air, long streaks will appear when dyed, creating a casual design. The fabric is suitable for formal use because of the increased color density and emphasis on the dyed sensation. Moreover, when air entangled yarns are twisted and driven as wefts, the feeling of dyed spots tends to be emphasized, and the length of the dyed spots becomes shorter due to the increase in the number of twists, which is problematic in terms of design. Furthermore, twisting is disadvantageous in terms of cost.

There are no particular restrictions on the air injection nozzle, air pressure, tension, etc., or the number of entangled parts when obtaining an air entangled yarn of cellulose filament yarn and polyester elastic yarn, but air entanglement uses an interlace, air pressure It is preferable to carry out at 1.5 kPa / cm ² or less and an overfeed rate of 2% or less.

  In the present invention, the cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less, which is a component constituting a composite yarn used for warp, has an official moisture content of 8% or less, which is a component constituting an air entangled yarn used for a weft. Cellulosic filament yarns similar to the cellulose filament yarns may be selected and may be the same as or different from those used for the weft yarns. Also in the composite yarn used for the warp, a cellulose acetate filament yarn is preferably used in the same manner as the cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less used for the air entangled yarn used for the weft.

  The composite yarn used for the warp is a composite yarn comprising a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less as a constituent component and a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content exceeding 8% or a polyester false twisted yarn. Preferably there is. Cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content of more than 8% used for the composite yarn is a filament yarn of regenerated fiber or semi-synthetic fiber made of cellulose, for example, a viscose rayon filament yarn having an official moisture content of 11% is preferable. Although it is mentioned as a thing, the kind and manufacturing method are not specifically limited, Moreover, the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, glossiness, fineness, etc. of a single fiber are not specifically limited. The content of the cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less in the composite yarn is preferably 40 to 90 mass%, more preferably 50 to 80 mass%.

  The polyester false twisted yarn used for the composite yarn is obtained by false twisting a polyester filament yarn composed of a polyester polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units. The polyester filament yarn is composed of two or more kinds of polyesters. The polyester filament yarn type, production method, single fiber cross-sectional shape, surface shape, gloss, fineness, dyeability and the like are not particularly limited. Moreover, the false twisting conditions for obtaining the false twisted yarn are not particularly limited, and may be arbitrarily selected depending on the texture and design of the target fabric.

  There is no particular limitation on the method of combining the cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and the cellulose filament yarn or polyester false twisted yarn having an official moisture content exceeding 8%, and the official moisture content is 8 % Of cellulose filament yarns and cellulose filament yarns with an official moisture content of more than 8% are combined, such as air entanglement, intertwisting, false twisting, etc. A composite yarn can be obtained by a method, and it is preferable to use a composite yarn by twisting in consideration of the controllability and design of the texture of the target fabric. As for the twisting, twisted ones may be twisted, or those previously mixed and entangled may be twisted. Moreover, you may add a lower twist to one filament yarn or both filament yarns, and twist them together, and the number of twists and directions of the lower twist, and the number of twists and directions of the upper twist are arbitrarily selected. In addition, the number of twists of the twist is not particularly limited, and may be arbitrarily selected from sweet twist to strong twist depending on the texture and design of the target fabric.

  Moreover, if it is a composite of a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and a polyester filament false twisted yarn, it is preferable to make a composite yarn by twisting. As for the twisting, twisted ones may be twisted, or those previously mixed and entangled may be twisted. Moreover, you may add a lower twist to one filament yarn or both filament yarns, and twist them together, and the number of twists and directions of the lower twist, and the number of twists and directions of the upper twist are arbitrarily selected. In addition, the number of twists of the twist is not particularly limited, and may be arbitrarily selected from sweet twist to strong twist depending on the texture and design of the target fabric.

  Cellulose filament yarns with an official moisture content of 8% or less and cellulose filament yarns with an official moisture content of more than 8% are a refreshing refreshing feeling, soft texture, and comfortable wearing Washing shrinkage, form stability, and quick drying, which are disadvantages of cellulosic filament yarns with an official moisture content of more than 8%, while maintaining excellent features such as crispness, high-quality luster, and clear and deep color development Etc. can be improved. The content of the cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content exceeding 8% in this composite yarn is preferably 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 20 to 50% by weight.

  In addition, the composite yarn of cellulose-based filament yarn with an official moisture content of 8% or less and polyester false twisted yarn can be made into a woven fabric rich in feeling of swelling and surface change, and the design can be diversified. It is. The content of the polyester filament false twisted yarn in this composite yarn is preferably 10 to 60% by mass, more preferably 20 to 50% by mass.

  In the present invention, an air entangled yarn of a cellulose-based filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and a polyester elastic yarn is used as the weft, and a warp yarn including a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less However, the structure, density, basis weight, etc. of the fabric are not particularly limited, and may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the representation of the fabric to be obtained, and the weaving method is also particularly limited. Is not to be done. In addition, the air entangled yarn used for the weft in the present invention may be arranged as a warp, and the composite yarn used for the warp in the present invention may be arranged as a weft.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. In the examples, the texture, appearance, and color development were evaluated by handling and visual observation.

Example 1
Cellulose triacetate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 110 dtex / 64 filament (f), official moisture content 3.5%, hereinafter cellulose triacetate is abbreviated as triacetate) and polyester elastic yarn as weft An air entangled yarn was prepared using an interlace nozzle, an air pressure of 1.3 kPa / cm ² , and an overfeed rate of 1% (Mitsubishi Rayon V210C cationic dyeable type, semi-dial 56 dtex / 12f). In addition, as a warp yarn, viscose rayon filament yarn (produced by Enca, Bright 67 dtex / 24f, official moisture content 11%, hereinafter viscose rayon is abbreviated as rayon), 1900 times / m in the S direction and ZA direction under twist. In addition, cellulose triacetate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20f, official moisture content 3.5%) with a single fiber chrysanthemum cross section is aligned and 550 times / m in the same direction as the primary twist of rayon filament yarn. A twisted composite yarn with twists in the S direction and Z direction was added.

  Two twisted composite yarns were alternately arranged as warps, and air entangled yarns were driven as wefts to weave a grosgrain fabric. The obtained raw machine was dyed black with a disperse dye and a direct dye by a conventional method and finished to obtain a grosgrain woven fabric having a finishing warp density of 177 yarns / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 114 yarns / 吋. The resulting fabric has a deep black color with excellent color developability. At first glance it appears to be a uniform solid color, but if you look carefully, it is a shaded color due to minute stains of moderate length and frequency Existed and exhibited an elegant design effect. In addition, the obtained woven fabric has a gloss and swelling with a high-class feeling, and is a lash-like woven fabric that can be suitably used in fields such as a formal having soft and appropriate harshness and drapeability, Furthermore, it had moderate stretchability to such an extent that the sewability of the fabric was improved.

(Example 2)
Weft A and Weft B are used as the weft, the same air entangled yarn used for the weft in Example 1 is used for the weft A, and a polyester-based elastic yarn (V714 manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., semi-dial 56 dtex / 24f) is used for the weft B. A twisted yarn with a twist of 2000 times / m in the S direction and the Z direction was used. The warp A and the warp B were used as the warp, the same twisted composite yarn as used for the warp in Example 1 was used for the warp A, and the same polyester-based elastic yarn as the weft B was used for the warp B.

  As warp, warp A and warp B are arranged in four: 4 alternately (both are SZ2 alternating), and as weft, weft A and weft B are arranged in two: two alternating (both are SZ1 alternating) Then, a woven fabric having a honeycomb structure was woven. The obtained raw machine was dyed black with a disperse dye and a direct dye by a conventional method and finished to obtain a honeycomb woven fabric having a finishing warp density of 215 / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 129 / 吋. The resulting fabric has a deep black color with excellent color developability. At first glance it appears to be a uniform solid color, but if you look carefully, it is a shaded color due to minute stains of moderate length and frequency Existed and exhibited an elegant design effect. In addition, the obtained woven fabric has a gloss and bulge with a high-class feeling, and is an eyelash-like woven fabric that can be suitably used in a field such as a farm having soft and appropriate harshness and drapeability. Furthermore, it had moderate elasticity and was excellent in a feeling of wear and sewability.

(Example 3)
As the weft, the same air entangled yarn as used in Example 1 was prepared. Further, as a warp, a triacetate filament yarn having a single fiber chrysanthemum cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 110 dtex / 64f, official moisture content of 3.5%) and a polyester false twisted yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co., Ltd., semi-dull 33 dtex / 24f), and a twisted composite yarn in which a twist of 1400 times / m in the S direction and the Z direction was added in the direction opposite to the false twist direction of the polyester false twisted yarn was produced.

  A single-strand composite yarn was alternately arranged as a warp, and an air entangled yarn was driven as a weft to weave a fabric with a satin texture. The obtained raw machine was dyed black with a disperse dye by a conventional method and finished to obtain a double woven fabric having a finishing warp density of 215 yarns / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 129 yarns / 吋. The resulting fabric has a deep black color with excellent color developability. At first glance it appears to be a uniform solid color, but if you look carefully, it is a shaded color due to minute stains of moderate length and frequency Existed and exhibited an elegant design effect. In addition, the obtained woven fabric has a gloss and swelling with a high-class feeling, and is a lash-like woven fabric that can be suitably used in fields such as a formal having soft and appropriate harshness and drapeability, Furthermore, it had moderate stretchability to such an extent that the sewability of the fabric was improved.

(Comparative Example 1)
In Example 3, a woven fabric was obtained by weaving and dyeing finishing in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the air entangled yarn of the weft was twisted in the S direction at 1400 times / m. The resulting woven fabric had a drape property and a deep black color as compared with the woven fabric according to Example 3. Although it was lacking in characteristics, it was semi-dial 56 dtex / 12f.

(Comparative Example 2)
In Example 3, a woven fabric was obtained by weaving and dyeing finishing in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the air entangled yarn of the weft was twisted in the S direction of 300 times / m. The resulting woven fabric, like the woven fabric according to Example 3, obtained a deep black color with excellent color developability. It wasn't going.

(Comparative Example 3)
In Example 3, instead of the air entangled yarn of weft yarn, a triacetate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 110 dtex / 64f, official moisture content 3.5%) and polyester elastic yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon) Weaving and dyeing finish processing in the same manner as in Example 3 except that a twisted yarn with twisted yarn in the S direction of 300 times / m was used. To obtain a woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric was not satisfactory because the surface of the woven fabric was rougher than the woven fabric according to Example 3, and the irregularities due to twisting were also noticeable.

(Comparative Example 4)
Polyester chic and thin false twisted yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co., Semidal 110 dtex / 72f) and single fiber chrysanthemum-shaped cross section cellulose diacetate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Bright 84 dtex / 20f, official moisture content 6.5 %) Were aligned, air entangled, and twisted in the S direction and Z direction at 1400 times / m in the direction opposite to the false twist direction of the polyester thick and thin false twisted yarn, to produce a twisted yarn. Using this twisted yarn as warp and weft, two SZs were alternately arranged to weave a fabric with a satin double structure. The obtained raw machine was dyed brown with a disperse dye by a conventional method and finished to obtain a double woven fabric with a finishing warp density of 146 pieces / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 116 pieces / 吋. The obtained woven fabric was able to obtain an eyelash-like texture having an appropriate swell and repulsion, but was not satisfactory because of the conspicuous shade difference characteristic of chic and thin yarn.

  The lash-like filament woven fabric of the present invention uses a yarn containing cellulose-based filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less for the weft and warp. A deeply dyed expression can be obtained by giving a shading feeling with high-quality luster, excellent color development, refreshing texture, moderate hygroscopicity, giving a comfortable wearing feeling Thus, it is useful as a material in the clothing field, particularly in the formal clothing field.

Claims (4)

An air entangled yarn of a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and a polyester elastic yarn is used for the weft, and a composite yarn containing a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less is used for the warp. Woven filament fabric. 2. The worsted filament woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn is a composite yarn of a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of more than 8%. The worsted filament woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn is a composite yarn of a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and a polyester false twisted yarn. The worsted filament woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less is a cellulose acetate filament yarn.