JP6015197B2 - Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric thereof, and method for producing composite false twisted yarn - Google Patents
Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric thereof, and method for producing composite false twisted yarn Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP6015197B2 JP6015197B2 JP2012165454A JP2012165454A JP6015197B2 JP 6015197 B2 JP6015197 B2 JP 6015197B2 JP 2012165454 A JP2012165454 A JP 2012165454A JP 2012165454 A JP2012165454 A JP 2012165454A JP 6015197 B2 JP6015197 B2 JP 6015197B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- component
- false
- filament yarn
- false twisted
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Active
Links
Description
本発明は、セルロース系フィラメント糸条を含む複合仮撚加工糸及びその複合仮撚加工糸からなる織物並びに複合仮撚加工糸の製造方法に関する。 The present invention relates to a composite false twisted yarn containing cellulosic filament yarn, a woven fabric comprising the composite false twisted yarn, and a method for producing the composite false twisted yarn.
従来より、アセテートフィラメント糸等のセルロース系フィラメント糸は、光沢、ドライ感、染色での発色性等に優れ、このセルロース系フィラメント糸を熱賦形性、繊維物性に優れた或いはさらに各種性状に変性したポリエステルフィラメント糸と組み合わせ、それぞれの特徴以上の性状の複合加工糸とすることが知られている。しかるに、セルロース系フィラメント糸は、ポリエステルフィラメント糸に比べ熱賦形性に劣ることから、その複合加工に当たっては種々提案がなされている。 Conventionally, cellulose filament yarns such as acetate filament yarns are excellent in gloss, dryness, color development in dyeing, etc., and these cellulose filament yarns are excellent in heat-forming properties, fiber physical properties, or further modified to various properties. It is known to be combined with a polyester filament yarn and to be a composite processed yarn having properties exceeding the respective characteristics. However, since the cellulose-based filament yarn is inferior in heat formability to the polyester filament yarn, various proposals have been made for its composite processing.
例えば、アセテートフィラメント糸を、ポリエステルの高配向未延伸糸、シックアンドシン糸、常圧可染性糸等と組み合わせ、仮撚加工して撚部の芯部に融着部を有するＳＺ交互撚りのある複合仮撚加工糸とする（特許文献１）、アセテートフィラメント糸を、ポリエステルの高配向未延伸糸やシックアンドシン糸と組み合わせ、仮撚加工し、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の構成フィラメントの一部を融着させ糸条に部分的に融着構造を形成させたＳＺ交互撚りのある複合仮撚加工糸とする（特許文献２）等の提案がある。 For example, an acetate filament yarn is combined with a highly oriented undrawn yarn of polyester, a thick and thin yarn, a normal pressure dyeable yarn, etc., false twisted, and SZ alternating twisted yarn having a fused portion at the core of the twisted portion. A composite false twisted yarn is used (Patent Document 1). Acetate filament yarn is combined with polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn and chic and thin yarn, false twisted, and part of the filaments of the polyester filament yarn is melted. There are proposals such as a composite false twisted yarn having SZ alternating twists, which is made to adhere and partially form a fused structure on the yarn (Patent Document 2).
しかしながら、これらの提案を含め従来の仮撚加撚工程による複合仮撚加工糸では、織物としたとき、ポリエステルフィラメント糸による強固な融着熱固定に基づいた糸の各撚部及び開繊部での形態差が際だちすぎてシャリ感が強く膨らみ感に欠け、ソフトな肌触り感が不十分であり、アセテートフィラメント糸独特の光沢感の発揮が不十分で、軽量感、ハリコシ感も十分に満足すべきものとはいえない。 However, in the composite false twisted yarn by the conventional false twist twisting process including these proposals, when it is made into a woven fabric, at each twisted portion and the spread portion of the yarn based on strong fusion heat fixation with a polyester filament yarn The morphological difference between the two is so sharp that the crispness is strong and lacks in bulging, the soft feel is insufficient, the glossiness unique to acetate filament yarn is insufficient, and the lightness and crispness are sufficient. It is not satisfactory.
本発明は、このような従来技術における問題について鋭意検討して解決したものであり、本発明の目的は、セルロース系フィラメント糸独特のドライ感、光沢感に加え、麻調のハリコシ感がありながらソフトな肌触り感が付与され、糸の太さ斑の少ない自然な外観を示す複合仮撚加工糸及びその織物を提供することにある。 The present invention has been solved by diligently studying such problems in the prior art, and the object of the present invention is to have a hemp-like harshness in addition to the dry feeling and glossiness unique to cellulose filament yarn. An object of the present invention is to provide a composite false-twisted yarn and a woven fabric thereof that have a soft feel and have a natural appearance with little thickness variation.
本発明の第１の要旨は、Ａ成分の糸条とＢ成分の糸条とで構成され、Ａ成分が単糸繊度０．５〜２ｄｔｅｘのセルロース系フィラメント糸条であり、Ｂ成分がポリエステル系フィラメント糸条であり、Ｂ成分の周囲にＡ成分が存在し、撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）の変動したＳＺ交互撚りが形成された複合仮撚加工糸であって、糸長手方向と直角方向の糸断面においてＢ成分の少なくとも一部に膠着部を有し、糸表面に毛羽を有する複合仮撚加工糸、にある。 The first gist of the present invention is composed of an A component yarn and a B component yarn, the A component is a cellulosic filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 2 dtex, and the B component is a polyester yarn. A filament yarn, a composite false twisted yarn in which an A component is present around the B component and an SZ alternating twist with a varying number of twists (T / m) is formed, and is in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn at least a portion of the B component in the yarn cross-section have a sticking portion, composite false twisted yarn to have a nap on the thread surface, in.
本発明の第２の要旨は、前記の複合仮撚加工糸が２０質量％以上含まれ、かつ織物表面全体にわたり存在する織物、にある。 The second gist of the present invention resides in a woven fabric containing 20% by mass or more of the composite false twisted yarn and existing over the entire fabric surface.
本発明の第３の要旨は、単糸繊度が０．５〜２ｄｔｅｘのセルロース系フィラメント糸条をＡ成分、ポリエステル系フィラメント糸条をＢ成分とし、Ａ成分とＢ成分とを引き揃え、以下の条件（１）〜（３）を満足するように仮撚加工する複合仮撚加工糸の製造方法、にある。
（１）仮撚温度をポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の一部が膠着する温度以上で、かつポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の表面が融解しモノフィラメント状になる温度未満とする。
（２）仮撚係数Ｋが１５０００〜３５０００の範囲で仮撚スピンドル回転数を周期的に変動させる。ただし、仮撚係数Ｋは、次式で算出される値である。
仮撚係数Ｋ＝Ｔ×√Ｄ （Ｔ：仮撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）、Ｄ：糸繊度（ｄｔｅｘ））
（３）仮撚スピンドル回転数の変動周期を０．２〜２秒の範囲でランダムに変動させる。
The third gist of the present invention is that a cellulose filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 2 dtex is an A component, a polyester filament yarn is a B component, the A component and the B component are aligned, and the following It exists in the manufacturing method of the composite false twisted yarn which false twists so that conditions (1)-(3) may be satisfied.
(1) The false twisting temperature is set to be equal to or higher than the temperature at which a part of the polyester filament yarn is glued, and less than the temperature at which the surface of the polyester filament yarn melts to become a monofilament.
(2) The false twist spindle rotational speed is periodically changed in a range of false twist coefficient K of 15000 to 35000. However, the false twist coefficient K is a value calculated by the following equation.
False twisting coefficient K = T × √D (T: false twist (T / m), D: yarn fineness (dtex))
(3) The fluctuation cycle of the false twist spindle rotational speed is randomly changed in the range of 0.2 to 2 seconds.
本発明は、複合仮撚加工糸の構成成分を少なくとも繊維表層部が低融点のポリエステルフィラメント糸条としたことにより、低い仮撚温度でセルロース系フィラメント糸条、特に好ましくはセルローストリアセテートフィラメント糸条と組み合わされての膠着を伴う仮撚加工を可能としたものである。したがい、本発明によれば、その撚構造から糸の太さ斑が少なく製織性が良好であるだけでなく、繊維強度の低いセルロース系フィラメント糸条が仮撚加工工程で受けるダメージが軽減され、糸の太さ斑の少ないまた加工糸の外周に位置するセルロース系フィラメント糸条の単糸繊度を小さくしたことから、加工糸表面に製織性を損なわない適度な毛羽を生じる。また、本発明によれば、本発明の好ましくはセルローストリアセテートフィラメント糸条を含んでなる複合仮撚加工糸を用いて織物としたときには、織物は、麻調のハリコシ感、ソフトな肌触り、軽量感、高級感のある繊細な光沢を有するものとなる。 The present invention is a cellulose filament yarn, particularly preferably a cellulose triacetate filament yarn at a low false twisting temperature, because at least the fiber surface layer portion has a low melting point polyester filament yarn as a constituent component of the composite false twisted yarn. This enables false twisting with glued together. Therefore, according to the present invention, not only is the weaving property good with less thickness unevenness of the yarn from the twisted structure, but also the damage that the cellulosic filament yarn having low fiber strength is subjected to in the false twisting process is reduced, Since the single yarn fineness of the cellulosic filament yarn with little thickness variation of the yarn and located on the outer periphery of the processed yarn is reduced, an appropriate fluff that does not impair the weaving property is generated on the processed yarn surface. Further, according to the present invention, when the composite false twisted yarn comprising cellulose triacetate filament yarn of the present invention is used as a woven fabric, the woven fabric has a hemp-like harshness, soft touch, and lightness. It has a delicate gloss with a high-class feeling.
以下に本発明の実施の形態について、詳細に説明する。
本発明の複合仮撚加工糸は、Ａ成分のフィラメント糸条とＢ成分のフィラメント糸条から構成され、Ａ成分のフィラメント糸条をセルロース系フィラメント糸条、Ｂ成分のフィラメント糸条をポリエステル系フィラメント糸条とするものである。本発明において、Ａ成分とするセルロース系フィラメント糸条としては、セルロースジアセテート繊維、セルローストリアセテート繊維のセルロースフィラメント糸条が挙げられ、特に好ましくいセルロース系フィラメント糸条は、公定水分率の低いセルローストリアセテートフィラメント糸条である。また本発明において、セルロース系フィラメント糸条は、その単糸繊度が０．５〜２ｄｔｅｘであることがソフト感、適度な毛羽を得るうえで必須であり、好ましく単糸繊度が０．５〜１．８ｄｔｅｘである。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention comprises an A component filament yarn and a B component filament yarn, the A component filament yarn is a cellulose filament yarn, and the B component filament yarn is a polyester filament. It is intended as a thread. In the present invention, examples of the cellulose filament yarn as component A include cellulose filament yarns of cellulose diacetate fiber and cellulose triacetate fiber. Particularly preferred cellulose filament yarn is cellulose triacetate having a low official moisture content. It is a filament yarn. In the present invention, the cellulosic filament yarn has a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 2 dtex, which is essential for obtaining a soft feeling and appropriate fluff, and preferably has a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 1. .8 dtex.
また、本発明において、Ｂ成分とするポリエステル系フィラメント糸条は、好ましくは、融点が２３０〜２４５℃の高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条、および芯部を融点２５０〜２６０℃のポリエチレンテレフタレート、鞘部を融点１５０〜２００℃のポリエステルとする芯鞘複合繊維のフィラメント糸条である。 In the present invention, the polyester filament yarn as component B is preferably a highly oriented unstretched polyester filament yarn having a melting point of 230 to 245 ° C., and a polyethylene terephthalate having a melting point of 250 to 260 ° C. and a sheath. It is a filament yarn of a core-sheath composite fiber whose part is polyester having a melting point of 150 to 200 ° C.
融点が２３０〜２４５℃の高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条であることが好ましく、溶融紡糸の際の紡出糸を延伸等による高配向させた、融点が２３０〜２４５℃の範囲にあるものであれば、特にその製法に限定されるものではない。 The highly oriented unstretched polyester filament yarn having a melting point of 230 to 245 ° C. is preferably a highly oriented unstretched polyester filament yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate, and is highly oriented by stretching the spun yarn during melt spinning. As long as the melting point is in the range of 230 to 245 ° C., the production method is not particularly limited.
また、前記芯鞘複合繊維のフィラメント糸条における芯鞘複合繊維は、その芯部が、通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条の製造に用いられると同様の、融点が２５０〜２６０℃のポリエチレンテレフタレートであり、鞘部が、ポリエチレンテレフタレートにテレフタル酸成分或いはエチレングリコール以外のジカルボン酸成分或いはジオール成分等の第三成分を共重合する等によりカチオン染料可染性、分散染料易染性等の常圧可染性に改質された、融点が１５０〜２００℃のポリエステルである。ポリエチレンテレフタレートの改質の際の第三成分としては、例えば５−ナトリウムスルフォイソフタル酸、イソフタル酸、アジピン酸、ポリエチレングリコール等が挙げられ、融点が１５０〜２００℃になるのであれば、第三成分の種類、量については特に制限はない。 Further, the core-sheath composite fiber in the filament yarn of the core-sheath composite fiber is polyethylene terephthalate having a melting point of 250 to 260 ° C., similar to the case where the core part is used for manufacturing a normal polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn. The sheath is made of polyethylene terephthalate, a terephthalic acid component, a dicarboxylic acid component other than ethylene glycol, or a third component such as a diol component. Polyester having a melting point of 150 to 200 ° C. Examples of the third component in the modification of polyethylene terephthalate include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, isophthalic acid, adipic acid, polyethylene glycol, and the like. If the melting point is 150 to 200 ° C., the third component There is no restriction | limiting in particular about the kind of component and quantity.
本発明の複合仮撚加工糸は、Ｂ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の周囲にＡ成分のセルロース系フィラメント糸条が存在しており、それぞれ撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）の変動したＳ撚部、Ｚ撚部が糸長手方向に交互に形成され、かつ糸長手方向に対し直角方向の糸断面においてＢ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の少なくとも一部に膠着部を有するものである。本発明の複合仮撚加工糸における膠着部は、Ｂ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条での単糸同士の膠着だけでなく、Ａ成分のセルロース系フィラメント糸条の単糸の一部を含んだ膠着にて形成されていてもよい。膠着は、仮撚加工中にフィラメント糸条の単糸相互が拘束下で加熱され固定或いは固着されることにより生ずる。 In the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the A-component cellulose filament yarn is present around the B-component polyester filament yarn, and the S-twisted portion in which the number of twists (T / m) varies, Z-twisted portions are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and at least a part of the B-component polyester filament yarn has an adhesive portion in a yarn cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The glued portion in the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is not only glued between single yarns in the B-component polyester filament yarn but also glued including a part of the single yarn of the A-component cellulose filament yarn. It may be formed by. Adhesion occurs when filament yarn single yarns are heated and fixed or fixed under restraint during false twisting.
本発明の複合仮撚加工糸には、Ａ成分の単糸が細繊度のセルロース系フィラメント糸条が４０〜７０質量％含有されていることが好ましく、Ａ成分の単糸が細繊度のセルロース系フィラメント糸条とＢ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の他に、融点２５０〜２６０℃の通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条をＣ成分として含んでいてもよく、Ｃ成分のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条は、複合仮撚加工糸に補強効果を付与する。 The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention preferably contains 40 to 70% by mass of a cellulose filament yarn having a fineness of A component single yarn, and the cellulose yarn having a fineness of A component single yarn. In addition to the filament yarn and the B-component polyester filament yarn, a normal polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn having a melting point of 250 to 260 ° C. may be included as the C component. Reinforces false twisted yarn.
本発明の複合仮撚加工糸は、織物素材として好ましく用いられ、加工糸表面でのＳ撚部、Ｚ撚部、撚反転部が著しく目立つものではなく、糸の太さ斑の少ない自然な外観を示す。本発明の複合仮撚加工糸を用いてなる織物は、本発明の複合仮撚加工糸の性能が発揮されるためには複合仮撚加工糸が２０質量％以上含まれることが必要であり、織物表面全体にわたり存在させることが好ましい。製織に際しての織機、織組織、目付等については特に制限はない。 The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably used as a woven material, and the S-twisted portion, Z-twisted portion, and twist-reversed portion on the processed yarn surface are not noticeable, and the natural appearance is small in the thickness of the yarn. Indicates. The woven fabric using the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention needs to contain 20% by mass or more of the composite false twisted yarn in order to exhibit the performance of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. It is preferably present over the entire fabric surface. There are no particular restrictions on the loom, weaving structure, basis weight, etc. during weaving.
次に、本発明の複合仮撚加工糸の製造方法を説明する。
本発明における複合仮撚加工糸の製造には、２本以上の複数種のフィラメント糸条を、引き揃え、ガイドを介して供給ローラーにより仮撚加撚工程に供給し、ヒーターと仮撚スピンドルとで仮撚加撚加工し、引取りローラーで引き取り、巻き取る方式の仮撚加工を用いる。
Next, the manufacturing method of the composite false twisted yarn of this invention is demonstrated.
In the production of the composite false twisted yarn in the present invention, two or more types of filament yarns are aligned, supplied to a false twist twisting process by a supply roller via a guide, and a heater, false twist spindle, Then, false twisting is used, and a false twisting process is used.
本発明の製造方法においては、単糸繊度が０．５〜２ｄｔｅｘのセルロース系フィラメント糸条をＡ成分、ポリエステル系フィラメント糸条をＢ成分とし、好ましくは加工糸中にＡ成分が４０〜７０質量％含有されるように、Ａ成分とＢ成分とを引き揃え、以下の条件（１）〜（３）を満足するように仮撚加工することが必要である。
（１）仮撚温度をポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の一部が膠着する温度以上で、かつポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の表面が融解しモノフィラメント状になる温度未満とする。
（２）仮撚係数Ｋが１５０００〜３５０００の範囲で仮撚スピンドル回転数を周期的に変動させる。ただし、仮撚係数Ｋは、次式で算出される値である。
仮撚係数Ｋ＝Ｔ×√Ｄ （Ｔ：仮撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）、Ｄ：糸繊度（ｄｔｅｘ））
（３）仮撚スピンドル回転数の変動周期を０．２〜２秒、好ましくは０．４〜１．０秒のの範囲でランダムに変動させる。
In the production method of the present invention, the cellulose filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 2 dtex is the A component, and the polyester filament yarn is the B component. Preferably, the A component is 40 to 70 mass in the processed yarn. It is necessary to align the A component and the B component so that they are contained, and perform false twisting so as to satisfy the following conditions (1) to (3).
(1) The false twisting temperature is set to be equal to or higher than the temperature at which a part of the polyester filament yarn is glued, and less than the temperature at which the surface of the polyester filament yarn melts to become a monofilament.
(2) The false twist spindle rotational speed is periodically changed in a range of false twist coefficient K of 15000 to 35000. However, the false twist coefficient K is a value calculated by the following equation.
False twisting coefficient K = T × √D (T: false twist (T / m), D: yarn fineness (dtex))
(3) The fluctuation cycle of the false twist spindle rotational speed is randomly varied in the range of 0.2 to 2 seconds, preferably 0.4 to 1.0 seconds.
本発明の製造方法における仮撚加工での条件の一つである仮撚温度は、本発明の複合仮撚加工糸の糸断面においてＢ成分であるポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の少なくとも一部に膠着部を形成させるために必要な温度である。なお、前記のＢ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の表面が融解しモノフィラメント状になるとは、フィラメント糸条を構成する全単糸の表面が融解し、単糸同士の境界がなくなりフィラメント糸条が一体化して剛直なモノフィラメント状になることをいい、本発明においての仮撚温度は、膠着を生じさせるが、モノフィラメント状には至らせない温度であることが必要である。 The false twisting temperature, which is one of the conditions for false twisting in the production method of the present invention, is a sticking portion on at least a part of the polyester filament yarn as the B component in the yarn cross section of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. Is the temperature required to form When the surface of the polyester filament yarn of component B is melted to form a monofilament, the surface of all the single yarns constituting the filament yarn is melted so that the boundary between the single yarns is eliminated and the filament yarn is integrated. The false twisting temperature in the present invention needs to be a temperature that causes sticking but does not lead to a monofilament shape.
本発明の製造方法においては、特に好ましくは、Ｂ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条として融点が２３０〜２４５℃の高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条を用いる場合は、ヒーター温度である仮撚温度を下記条件（４）を満足する温度とする。
（４）ｍｐｘ−３０℃≦仮撚温度（℃）≦ｍｐｘ−１５℃（ただし、ｍｐｘは、高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラント糸条の融点（℃）を示す。）
また、Ｂ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条として芯部を融点２５０〜２６０℃のポリエチレンテレフタレート、鞘部を融点１５０〜２００℃のポリエステルとする芯鞘複合繊維のフィラメント糸条を用いる場合は、仮撚温度を下記条件（５）を満足する温度とする。
（５）ｍｐｙ−３０℃≦仮撚温度（℃）≦ｍｐｙ＋１０℃（ただし、ｍｐｙは、芯鞘複合繊維の鞘部のポリエステルの融点（℃）を示す。）
In the production method of the present invention, particularly preferably, when a highly oriented unstretched polyester filament yarn having a melting point of 230 to 245 ° C. is used as the B-component polyester filament yarn, the false twisting temperature that is the heater temperature is as follows: The temperature satisfies the condition (4).
(4) mpx−30 ° C. ≦ false twisting temperature (° C.) ≦ mpx−15 ° C. (where mpx represents the melting point (° C.) of the highly oriented unstretched polyester filler yarn)
In addition, when a filament yarn of a core-sheath composite fiber having a core part of polyethylene terephthalate having a melting point of 250 to 260 ° C. and a sheath part of polyester having a melting point of 150 to 200 ° C. is used as the polyester filament yarn of component B, false twist The temperature is set to satisfy the following condition (5).
(5) mpy-30 ° C. ≦ false twist temperature (° C.) ≦ mpy + 10 ° C. (where mpy represents the melting point (° C.) of the polyester of the sheath portion of the core-sheath composite fiber)
本発明の製造方法によれば、仮撚加工でのヒーターと仮撚スピンドルにより、特にＢ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条が加撚状態で膠着熱固定され、仮撚スピンドルの通過後に、膠着部は未解撚部として残り仮撚方向の撚部が形成され、未膠着部及び弱膠着部は解撚されて開繊し、さらには仮撚方向とは逆方向に短時間で反転して加撚（過解撚）され仮撚方向とは逆方向の撚部、例えば仮撚方向がＺ方向であればＺ撚部と仮撚方向と逆のＳ撚部、仮撚方向がＳ方向であればＳ撚部と仮撚方向と逆のＺ撚部が形成されると共に各撚部での撚数が変動したものとなる。 According to the production method of the present invention, the polyester filament yarn of the B component is particularly glued and fixed in a twisted state by a heater and false twisting spindle in false twisting, and after passing through the false twisting spindle, As the untwisted part, the remaining false twisted twisted part is formed, the unadhered and weakly glued parts are untwisted and opened, and then twisted by reversing in the direction opposite to the false twisted state in a short time If the twisted portion is (over-twisted) and reverse to the false twist direction, for example, the false twist direction is the Z direction, the Z twist portion and the S twist portion opposite to the false twist direction, and the false twist direction is the S direction. An S twist portion and a Z twist portion opposite to the false twist direction are formed, and the number of twists at each twist portion varies.
本発明の製造方法での仮撚加工では、Ｂ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条が加撚状態で膠着熱固定される際、Ｂ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条、特に好ましく用いられる低融点の高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条または鞘部が低融点のポリエステルの芯鞘複合繊維からなるポリエステル系フィラメント糸条は、熱で収縮し集合して各撚部での芯部を形成し、殆ど熱に影響されないＡ成分の単糸が細繊度のセルロース系フィラメント糸条は、その一部の単糸がＢ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の膠着で拘束された状態で、各撚部での外周部に位置し、Ｂ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の周囲にＡ成分の単糸が細繊度のセルロース系フィラメント糸条が存在した状態を呈し、さらに、糸長手方向と直角方向の糸断面においてＢ成分のポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の少なくとも一部に膠着部を有する、いわゆる芯鞘構造の複合加工糸となって、糸表面に単糸が細繊度のセルロース系フィラメント糸条に依る適度な毛羽立ちを生じた複合仮撚加工糸となる。また、本発明の製造方法では、仮撚加工の際、融点２５０〜２６０℃のポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸条をＣ成分とし、Ａ成分、Ｂ成分及びＣ成分の各フィラメント糸条を引き揃えて仮撚加工することもできる。 In false twisting in the production method of the present invention, when the B-component polyester filament yarn is glued and heat-set in a twisted state, the B-component polyester filament yarn, particularly preferably used is a low-melting high orientation Polyester filament yarn made of unstretched polyester filament yarn or polyester core-sheath composite fiber with a low melting point sheath forms a core at each twisted part by shrinking and gathering with heat, almost affecting heat Cellulosic filament yarns with a fineness of the A component single yarn that are not fine are located at the outer peripheral portion of each twisted portion, with some of the single yarns being constrained by the glue of the B component polyester filament yarns In addition, a cellulose-based filament yarn having a fineness of A component single yarn is present around the B-component polyester filament yarn, and is perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It becomes a composite processed yarn having a so-called core-sheath structure in which at least a part of the B-component polyester filament yarn has a glued portion in the direction of the cross section of the yarn, and a single yarn is formed on the yarn surface into a cellulose filament yarn having a fineness. Therefore, it becomes a composite false twisted yarn with moderate fluff. In the production method of the present invention, during false twisting, a polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn having a melting point of 250 to 260 ° C. is used as the C component, and the filament yarns of the A component, the B component, and the C component are aligned and false twisted. It can also be processed.
以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。なお、実施例中での評価項目の測定は、次の方法に拠った。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. In addition, the measurement of the evaluation item in an Example was based on the following method.
〈かさ高圧縮率、かさ高圧縮弾性率〉
加工糸を綛にとり、３０分の沸水処理をした糸で、初荷重５０ｃＮ、最終荷重１５００ｃＮ、圧縮面積１０ｃｍ２の条件で、ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０１３Ｂ法に準拠して測定した。
〈剛軟性〉
加工糸を綛にとり、初荷重０．００３ｇ／ｄｔｅｘをかけた状態で３０分の沸水処理をした糸で、ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０９６Ａ法に準拠して測定した。
<Bulk high compression modulus, bulk high compression modulus>
The processed yarn was taken in a scissors and subjected to boiling water treatment for 30 minutes, and measured according to the JIS L1013B method under conditions of an initial load of 50 cN, a final load of 1500 cN, and a compression area of 10 cm 2 .
<Flexibility>
The processed yarn was taken up in a scissors and subjected to boiling water treatment for 30 minutes under an initial load of 0.003 g / dtex, and measured according to JIS L1096A method.
〈織物での総合評価〉
加工糸を経緯糸に用いて綾織組織に製織した織物にて、風合い、外観、染色性等をハンドリングと目視によって評価した。
〈融点（ｍｐ）〉
示差走査型熱量計（セイコー電子工業社製、ＤＳＣ２２０）を用い、昇温速度１０℃／分で測定した。
<Comprehensive evaluation with textiles>
The texture, appearance, dyeability, and the like of the woven fabric woven into a twill weave using the processed yarn as warp and weft were evaluated by handling and visual observation.
<Melting point (mp)>
A differential scanning calorimeter (DSC220, manufactured by Seiko Denshi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) was used, and the temperature was measured at a heating rate of 10 ° C./min.
（実施例１）
単糸繊度１．７ｄｔｅｘのセルローストリアセテート（以下、トリアセテートと略記）フィラメント糸条（三菱レイヨン社製、ブライト１１０ｄｔｅｘ／６４ｆ、単糸菊型断面、公定水分率３．５％、Ａ１成分）１本と、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる融点が２３３℃の高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条（ユニチカファイバー社製、ブライト５６ｄｔｅｘ／１２ｆ、単糸丸断面、Ｂ１成分）１本と、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる融点が２５６℃のポリエステルフィラメント糸条（三菱レイヨン社製、セミダル２２ｄｔｅｘ／１２ｆ、単糸丸断面、Ｃ１成分）１本とを引き揃え、仮撚加工機にて、仮撚温度２１０℃、仮撚数１７００〜２２００Ｔ／ｍ、Ｚ撚、仮撚スピンドル変動周期０．４〜１．０秒の条件下で仮撚加工を行って複合仮撚加工糸を得た。
Example 1
One cellulose triacetate (hereinafter abbreviated as triacetate) filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 110 dtex / 64f, single yarn chrysanthemum cross section, official moisture content 3.5%, A1 component) and a single yarn fineness of 1.7 dtex , A highly oriented unstretched polyester filament yarn having a melting point of 233 ° C. made of polyethylene terephthalate (Unitika Fiber, Bright 56 dtex / 12f, single yarn round cross section, B1 component), and a melting point of polyethylene terephthalate having a melting point of 256 ° C. One polyester filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., semi-dal 22dtex / 12f, single yarn round cross section, C1 component) is aligned, and in a false twisting machine, false twisting temperature is 210 ° C, false twist number is 1700-2200T / m, Z twist, false twist spindle false twist under the condition of 0.4-1.0 seconds To obtain a yarn composite false-twisting going the factory.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、Ｂ１成分のフィラメント糸条が収縮し集合してＣ１成分のフィラメント糸条を含んた状態で芯部をなし、その周囲にＡ１成分の単糸が細繊度のフィラメント糸条が存在し、さらに、糸断面において、芯部のＢ１成分のフィラメント糸条に単糸同士の膠着による膠着部を有する加工糸であった。また、得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、Ｂ１成分のフィラメント糸条に膠着部を有することにより、未解撚のＺ撚部と過解撚のＳ撚部が糸長手方向に交互に形成され、しかも各撚部での撚数が変動している複合仮撚加工糸であった。この複合仮撚加工糸は、トリアセテートフィラメント糸条を５９質量％含み、表１にも示したように、かさ高圧縮率６２．３％、かさ高圧縮弾性率７９．１％、剛軟性５７．４ｍｍであった。 The obtained composite false twisted yarn has a core portion in which the filament yarn of the B1 component shrinks and aggregates and includes the filament yarn of the C1 component, and the single yarn of the A1 component is fine in the periphery. Filament yarns existed, and in the yarn cross section, the processed yarn had a glued portion due to the glued single yarns on the filament yarn of the B1 component at the core. Further, the obtained composite false twisted yarn has an adhesive portion on the filament yarn of the B1 component, so that an untwisted Z twist portion and an untwisted S twist portion are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Moreover, it was a composite false twisted yarn in which the number of twists at each twisted portion varied. This composite false twisted yarn contains 59% by mass of triacetate filament yarn, and as shown in Table 1, the bulky compression rate is 62.3%, the bulky compression modulus is 79.1%, and the bending resistance is 57.%. It was 4 mm.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸を経糸と緯糸に用い、綾織組織の織物を製織した。この織物の生機を常法により分散染料にてベージュ色に染色し、仕上げ加工して仕上げ経密度１１８本／吋、仕上げ緯密度８７本／吋の織物を得た。得られた織物は、麻調のハリコシ感、ソフトな肌触りと天然の麻様の表情感に加え、軽量感、高級感のある光沢を有するものであった。またこの織物は、洗濯による縮みや外観変化もなく、麻織物では得られにくい耐洗濯性にも優れた織物であった。 The resulting composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a twill weave. The woven fabric machine was dyed in a beige color with a disperse dye by a conventional method, and finished to obtain a woven fabric having a finishing warp density of 118 yarns / 吋 and a finished weft density of 87 yarns / 吋. The resulting fabric had a hemp-like feel, soft touch and natural hemp-like expression, as well as lightness and a high-grade luster. Further, this woven fabric was free from shrinkage and change in appearance due to washing, and was excellent in washing resistance that was difficult to obtain with hemp fabric.
（実施例２）
実施例１で用いたと同じトリアセテートフィラメント糸条（Ａ１成分）１本と、芯部が融点２５６℃のポリエチレンテレフタレート、鞘部が融点１８０℃の改質ポリエチレンテレフタレートの芯鞘複合繊維フィラメント糸条（ユニチカファイバー社製、ブライト５６ｄｔｅｘ／２４ｆ、単糸丸断面、Ｂ２成分）１本とを引き揃え、仮撚加工機にて、仮撚温度１８０℃、仮撚数１７００〜２２００Ｔ／ｍ、Ｚ撚、仮撚スピンドル変動周期０．４〜１．０秒の条件下で仮撚加工を行って複合仮撚加工糸を得た。
(Example 2)
The same triacetate filament yarn (A1 component) as used in Example 1, a core-sheathed composite fiber filament yarn (unitika) of polyethylene terephthalate having a melting point of 256 ° C in the core and a modified polyethylene terephthalate having a melting point of 180 ° C in the sheath. Fiber Co., Ltd., Bright 56 dtex / 24f, single yarn round cross section, B2 component) are aligned, using a false twisting machine, false twisting temperature 180 ° C., false twist number 1700-2200 T / m, Z twist, temporary False twisting was performed under conditions of a twisting spindle fluctuation period of 0.4 to 1.0 seconds to obtain a composite false twisted yarn.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、Ｂ２成分のフィラメント糸条が収縮し集合して芯部をなし、その周囲にＡ１成分の単糸が細繊度のフィラメント糸条が存在し、さらに、糸断面において、芯部のＢ２成分のフィラメント糸条に単糸同士の膠着による膠着部を有する加工糸であった。また、得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、Ｂ２成分のフィラメント糸条に膠着部を有することにより、未解撚のＺ撚部と過解撚のＳ撚部が糸長手方向に交互に形成され、しかも各撚部での撚数が変動している複合仮撚加工糸であった。この複合仮撚加工糸は、トリアセテートフィラメント糸条を６８質量％含み、そのかさ高圧縮率、かさ高圧縮弾性率、剛軟性を表１に示した。 In the obtained composite false twisted yarn, the filament yarn of the B2 component contracts and aggregates to form a core, and the filament yarn of the fineness of the single yarn of the A1 component exists around the yarn. In No. 1, the processed yarn has a glued portion formed by glued single yarns on the filament yarn of the B2 component in the core. In addition, the obtained composite false twisted yarn has an adhesive portion on the filament yarn of the B2 component, so that an untwisted Z twist portion and an untwisted S twist portion are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Moreover, it was a composite false twisted yarn in which the number of twists at each twisted portion varied. This composite false twisted yarn contains 68% by mass of triacetate filament yarn, and its bulky compressibility, bulky compressive elastic modulus, and bending resistance are shown in Table 1.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸を経糸と緯糸に用い、綾織組織の織物を製織した。この織物の生機を常法により分散染料にてベージュ色に染色し、仕上げ加工して仕上経密度１２５本／吋、仕上緯密度９２本／吋の織物を得た。得られた織物は、麻調のハリコシ感、ソフトな肌触りと天然の麻様の表情感に加え、軽量感、高級感のある光沢を有するものであった。またこの織物は、洗濯による縮みや外観変化もなく、麻織物では得られにくい耐洗濯性にも優れた織物であった。 The resulting composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a twill weave. The textile machine was dyed in a beige color with a disperse dye by a conventional method, and finished to obtain a textile having a finishing warp density of 125 pcs / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 92 pcs / 吋. The resulting fabric had a hemp-like feel, soft touch and natural hemp-like expression, as well as lightness and a high-grade luster. Further, this woven fabric was free from shrinkage and change in appearance due to washing, and was excellent in washing resistance that was difficult to obtain with hemp fabric.
（実施例３）
実施例１で用いたと同じトリアセテートフィラメント糸条（Ａ１成分）１本と、実施例２で用いたと同じ芯鞘複合繊維のフィラメント糸条（Ｂ２成分）１本と、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる融点が２５７℃のポリエステルシックアンドシンフィラメント糸条（東レ社製、ブライト５６ｄｔｅｘ／２４ｆ、単糸丸断面、Ｃ２成分）１本とを引き揃え、仮撚加工機にて、仮撚温度１７０℃、仮撚数１４００〜１９００Ｔ／ｍ、Ｚ撚、仮撚スピンドル変動周期０．４〜１．０秒の条件下で仮撚加工を行って複合仮撚加工糸を得た。
(Example 3)
One triacetate filament yarn (A1 component) same as that used in Example 1, one filament yarn (B2 component) of the same core-sheath composite fiber used in Example 2, and a melting point consisting of polyethylene terephthalate is 257 ° C. Polyester chic and thin filament yarn (Toray, Bright 56 dtex / 24f, single yarn round cross section, C2 component) are aligned with a false twisting machine at a false twist temperature of 170 ° C. and false twist number of 1400. A false false twisting process was performed under the conditions of ~ 1900 T / m, Z twist, false twist spindle fluctuation period of 0.4 to 1.0 seconds to obtain a composite false twisted yarn.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、糸の芯部にＢ２成分のフィラメント糸条が収縮し集合してＣ２成分のフィラメント糸条を含んだ状態で芯部をなし、その周囲にＡ１成分の単糸が細繊度のフィラメント糸条が存在し、さらに、糸断面において、芯部のＢ２成分のフィラメント糸条に単糸同士の膠着による膠着部を有する加工糸であった。また、得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、Ｂ２成分のフィラメント糸条に膠着部を有することにより、未解撚のＺ撚部と過解撚のＳ撚部が糸長手方向に交互に形成され、しかも各撚部での撚数が変動している複合仮撚加工糸であった。この複合仮撚加工糸は、トリアセテートフィラメント糸条を４８質量％含み、そのかさ高圧縮率、かさ高圧縮弾性率、剛軟性を表１に示した。 The obtained composite false twisted yarn has a core portion in which the filament yarn of the B2 component contracts and collects at the core portion of the yarn and includes the filament yarn of the C2 component. There was a filament yarn having a fineness of the yarn. Further, in the yarn cross-section, the yarn was a processed yarn having a glued portion formed by glued single yarns on the filament yarn of the B2 component at the core. In addition, the obtained composite false twisted yarn has an adhesive portion on the filament yarn of the B2 component, so that an untwisted Z twist portion and an untwisted S twist portion are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Moreover, it was a composite false twisted yarn in which the number of twists at each twisted portion varied. This composite false twisted yarn contains 48% by mass of triacetate filament yarn, and its bulky compressibility, bulky compressive elastic modulus, and bending resistance are shown in Table 1.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸を経糸と緯糸に用い、綾織組織の織物を製織した。この織物の生機を常法により分散染料にてベージュ色に染色し、仕上げ加工して仕上経密度１０５本／吋、仕上緯密度７５本／吋の織物を得た。得られた織物は、麻調のハリコシ感、ソフトな肌触りと天然の麻様の表情感に加え、軽量感、高級感のある光沢を有するものであった。またこの織物は、洗濯による縮みや外観変化もなく、麻織物では得られにくい耐洗濯性にも優れた織物であった。 The resulting composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a twill weave. The textile machine was dyed in a beige color with a disperse dye by a conventional method, and finished to obtain a textile having a finishing warp density of 105 / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 75 / 吋. The resulting fabric had a hemp-like feel, soft touch and natural hemp-like expression, as well as lightness and a high-grade luster. Further, this woven fabric was free from shrinkage and change in appearance due to washing, and was excellent in washing resistance that was difficult to obtain with hemp fabric.
（実施例４）
単糸繊度１．７ｄｔｅｘのトリアセテートフィラメント糸条（三菱レイヨン社製、ブライト６６ｄｔｅｘ／４０ｆ、単糸菊型断面、公定水分率３．５％、Ａ２成分）１本と、実施例２で用いたと同じ芯鞘複合繊維のフィラメント糸条（Ｂ２成分）１本とを引き揃え、仮撚加工機にて、仮撚温度１６０℃、仮撚数２０００〜２５００Ｔ／ｍ、Ｚ撚、仮撚スピンドル変動周期０．４〜１．０秒の条件下で仮撚加工を行って複合仮撚加工糸を得た。
Example 4
One triacetate filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.7 dtex (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 66 dtex / 40f, single yarn chrysanthemum cross section, official moisture content 3.5%, A2 component), and the same as used in Example 2 One filament yarn (B2 component) of the core-sheath composite fiber is aligned, with a false twisting machine, false twist temperature 160 ° C., false twist number 2000-2500 T / m, Z twist, false twist spindle fluctuation period 0 A false twisting process was performed under a condition of 4 to 1.0 seconds to obtain a composite false twisted yarn.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、糸の芯部にＢ２成分のフィラメント糸条が収縮し集合して芯部をなし、その周囲にＡ２成分の単糸が細繊度のフィラメント糸条が存在し、さらに、糸断面において、芯部のＢ２成分のフィラメント糸条に単糸同士の膠着による膠着部を有する加工糸であった。また、得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、Ｂ２成分のフィラメント糸条に膠着部を有することにより、未解撚のＺ撚部と過解撚のＳ撚部が糸長手方向に交互に形成され、しかも各撚部での撚数が変動している複合仮撚加工糸であった。この複合仮撚加工糸は、トリアセテートフィラメント糸条を５５質量％含み、そのかさ高圧縮率、かさ高圧縮弾性率、剛軟性を表１に示した。 In the obtained composite false twisted yarn, the filament yarn of the B2 component contracts and gathers at the core of the yarn to form a core, and the filament yarn of the fineness of the single yarn of the A2 component exists around it. Furthermore, in the yarn cross section, the processed yarn had a glued portion due to the glued single yarns on the filament yarn of the B2 component in the core. In addition, the obtained composite false twisted yarn has an adhesive portion on the filament yarn of the B2 component, so that an untwisted Z twist portion and an untwisted S twist portion are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Moreover, it was a composite false twisted yarn in which the number of twists at each twisted portion varied. This composite false twisted yarn contains 55% by mass of triacetate filament yarn, and its bulky compressibility, bulky compressive elastic modulus, and bending resistance are shown in Table 1.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸を経糸と緯糸に用い、綾織組織の織物を製織した。この織物の生機を常法により分散染料にてベージュ色に染色し、仕上げ加工して仕上経密度１４５本／吋、仕上緯密度１０５本／吋の織物を得た。得られた織物は、麻調のハリコシ感、ソフトな肌触りと天然の麻様の表情感に加え、軽量感、高級感のある光沢を有するものであった。またこの織物は、洗濯による縮みや外観変化もなく、麻織物では得られにくい耐洗濯性にも優れた織物であった。 The resulting composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a twill weave. This textile fabric was dyed in a beige color with a disperse dye according to a conventional method, and finished to obtain a textile having a finishing warp density of 145 / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 105 / 本. The resulting fabric had a hemp-like feel, soft touch and natural hemp-like expression, as well as lightness and a high-grade luster. Further, this woven fabric was free from shrinkage and change in appearance due to washing, and was excellent in washing resistance that was difficult to obtain with hemp fabric.
（比較例１）（特許文献１の実施例１に相当）
単糸繊度７ｄｔｅｘのトリアセテートフィラメント糸条（三菱レイヨン社製、ブライト１６７ｄｔｅｘ／２４ｆ、単糸菊型断面、公定水分率３．５％、ａ１成分）１本と、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる融点が２５６℃の高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条（三菱レイヨン社製、セミダル９０ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆ、単糸丸断面、ｂ１成分）１本とを引き揃え、２ヒーター型仮撚加工機にて、第１ヒーター温度１８０℃、第２ヒーター温度１９０℃、仮撚数５００〜２８００Ｔ／ｍ、Ｚ撚、仮撚スピンドル変動周期１．０〜２．０秒の条件下で仮撚加工を行って複合仮撚加工糸を得た。
(Comparative Example 1) (corresponding to Example 1 of Patent Document 1)
A triacetate filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 7 dtex (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 167 dtex / 24f, single yarn chrysanthemum cross section, official moisture content 3.5%, a1 component) and a melting point of 256 ° C. made of polyethylene terephthalate A highly oriented unstretched polyester filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., semi-dull 90 dtex / 36f, single yarn round cross section, b1 component) is aligned with a first heater temperature of 180 ° C. in a two heater type false twisting machine. , Second heater temperature 190 ° C., false twist number 500-2800 T / m, Z twist, false twist spindle fluctuation period 1.0-2.0 seconds to perform false twist processing to obtain composite false twisted yarn It was.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、ｂ１成分のフィラメント糸条が芯部となり、糸の外周にａ１成分の太繊度のフィラメント糸条が配され、ｂ１成分のフィラメント糸条の熱賦形による未解撚のＺ撚部と過解撚のＳ撚部と捲縮のある開繊部が糸長手方向に形成され、各撚部での撚り数が緩やかに変動している、トリアセテートフィラメント糸条を６５質量％含む複合仮撚加工糸であった。この複合仮撚加工糸は、表１にも示したように、かさ高圧縮率４５．７％、かさ高圧縮弾性率６８．２％、剛軟性３５．４ｍｍであった。得られた複合仮撚加工糸を経糸と緯糸に用い、綾織組織の織物を製織した。この織物の生機を常法により分散染料にてベージュ色に染色し、仕上げ加工して仕上げ経密度１２５本／吋、仕上げ緯密度９０本／吋の織物を得た。得られた織物は、麻調の外観は有するもののハリコシ感のない織物であり、風合いもｂ１成分のフィラメント糸条の単糸繊度が大きいためシャリ感が強く、膨らみ感に欠けるものであった。 In the obtained composite false twisted yarn, the filament yarn of the b1 component becomes the core, the filament yarn of the fineness of the a1 component is arranged on the outer periphery of the yarn, and the filament yarn of the b1 component is not formed by heat shaping. A triacetate filament yarn in which an untwisted Z-twisted portion, an untwisted S-twisted portion, and a crimped spread portion are formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the number of twists at each twisted portion varies gently. It was a composite false twisted yarn containing 65% by mass. As shown in Table 1, this composite false twisted yarn had a bulky compression ratio of 45.7%, a bulky compression elastic modulus of 68.2%, and a bending resistance of 35.4 mm. The resulting composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a twill weave. The woven fabric machine was dyed in a beige color with a disperse dye by a conventional method, and finished to obtain a woven fabric having a finishing warp density of 125 pieces / 吋 and a finished weft density of 90 pieces / 吋. The resulting woven fabric had a hemp-like appearance but no harshness, and the texture was strong due to the large single yarn fineness of the filament yarn of the b1 component, and lacked a feeling of swelling.
（比較例２）（特許文献２の実施例１に相当）
単糸繊度４．２ｄｔｅｘのトリアセテートフィラメント糸条（三菱レイヨン社製、ブライト８３ｄｔｅｘ／２０ｆ、単糸菊型断面、公定水分率３．５％、ａ２成分）１本と、比較例１で用いたと同じ高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラメント糸条（ｂ１成分）１本とを引き揃え、２ヒーター型仮撚加工機にて、第１ヒーター温度２２０℃、第２ヒーター温度２２０℃、仮撚数２２００Ｔ／ｍ、Ｚ撚の条件下で仮撚加工を行って複合仮撚加工糸を得た。
(Comparative Example 2) (corresponding to Example 1 of Patent Document 2)
One triacetate filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 4.2 dtex (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 83 dtex / 20f, single yarn chrysanthemum cross section, official moisture content 3.5%, a2 component) is the same as that used in Comparative Example 1. One highly oriented unstretched polyester filament yarn (component b1) is aligned, and in a two heater type false twisting machine, the first heater temperature is 220 ° C., the second heater temperature is 220 ° C., the false twist number is 2200 T / m, A false false twisting process was performed under the Z twist condition to obtain a composite false twisted yarn.
得られた複合仮撚加工糸は、ｂ１成分のフィラメント糸条が芯部となり、最外周にａ２成分のフィラメントが配され、ｂ１成分のフィラメント糸条の熱賦形による未解撚のＺ撚部と過解撚のＳ撚部と捲縮のある開繊部が糸長手方向に形成された、トリアセテートフィラメント糸条を４８質量％含む複合仮撚加工糸であった。この複合仮撚加工糸のかさ高圧縮率、かさ高圧縮弾性率、剛軟性を 表１に示した。得られた複合仮撚加工糸を経糸と緯糸に用い、綾織組織の織物を製織した。この織物の生機を常法により分散染料にてベージュ色に染色し、仕上げ加工して仕上経密度１５５本／吋、仕上緯密度１１０本／吋の織物を得た。得られた織物は、シャリ感や清涼感は有するものの、ハリコシ感に欠け、撚り数に変化がなく粗剛で膨らみ感に欠けるものであった。 In the obtained composite false twisted yarn, the filament yarn of the b1 component becomes the core, the filament of the a2 component is arranged on the outermost periphery, and the untwisted Z-twisted portion by heat shaping of the filament yarn of the b1 component And an untwisted S-twisted portion and a crimped spread portion formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and a composite false twisted yarn containing 48% by mass of a triacetate filament yarn. Table 1 shows the bulk compression ratio, bulk compression elastic modulus, and bending resistance of this composite false twisted yarn. The resulting composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a twill weave. The textile machine was dyed in a beige color with a disperse dye by a conventional method and finished to obtain a textile having a finishing warp density of 155 yarns / 吋 and a finishing weft density of 110 yarns / 吋. The obtained woven fabric had a sense of crispness and coolness but lacked a sense of elasticity, had no change in the number of twists, and was rough and lacked a feeling of swelling.
本発明のセルロース系フィラメント糸条を含んでなる複合仮撚加工糸は、その外周に位置するセルロース系フィラメント糸条の単糸繊度を小さくしたことから、加工糸表面に製織性を損なわない適度な毛羽を生じ自然な外観が付与され、また、本発明による複合仮撚加工糸を用いて織物としたときに、麻調のハリコシ感、ソフトな肌触り、軽量感、高級感のある繊細な光沢を有することから、本発明の加工糸、織物共に衣料用素材として好適なるものである。
The composite false twisted yarn comprising the cellulosic filament yarn of the present invention has a moderate single fiber fineness of the cellulosic filament yarn located on the outer periphery thereof, so that the weaving property is not impaired on the surface of the processed yarn. A natural appearance is imparted with fluff, and when it is made into a woven fabric using the composite false twisted yarn according to the present invention, it has a hemp-like feel, soft touch, light weight, and a high-class delicate luster. Therefore, both the processed yarn and the fabric of the present invention are suitable as clothing materials.
Claims (12)
、ポリエステル系フィラメント糸条をＢ成分とし、Ａ成分とＢ成分とを引き揃え、以下の条件（１）〜（３）を満足するように仮撚加工する複合仮撚加工糸の製造方法。
（１）仮撚温度をポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の一部が膠着する温度以上で、かつポリエステル系フィラメント糸条の表面が融解しモノフィラメント状になる温度未満とする。
（２）仮撚係数Ｋが１５０００〜３５０００の範囲で仮撚スピンドル回転数を周期的に変動させる。ただし、仮撚係数Ｋは、次式で算出される値である。
仮撚係数Ｋ＝Ｔ×√Ｄ （Ｔ：仮撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）、Ｄ：糸繊度（ｄｔｅｘ））
（３）仮撚スピンドル回転数の変動周期を０．２〜２秒の範囲でランダムに変動させる。 Cellulosic filament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 2 dtex is A component, polyester filament yarn is B component, A component and B component are aligned, and the following conditions (1) to (3) are satisfied: A method of producing a composite false twisted yarn that is false twisted so as to satisfy.
(1) The false twisting temperature is set to be equal to or higher than the temperature at which a part of the polyester filament yarn is glued, and less than the temperature at which the surface of the polyester filament yarn melts to become a monofilament.
(2) The false twist spindle rotational speed is periodically changed in a range of false twist coefficient K of 15000 to 35000. However, the false twist coefficient K is a value calculated by the following equation.
False twisting coefficient K = T × √D (T: false twist (T / m), D: yarn fineness (dtex))
(3) The fluctuation cycle of the false twist spindle rotational speed is randomly changed in the range of 0.2 to 2 seconds.
（４）ｍｐｘ−３０℃≦仮撚温度（℃）≦ｍｐｘ−１５℃
ただし、ｍｐｘは、高配向未延伸ポリエステルフィラント糸条の融点（℃）を示す。 The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 8, wherein a highly oriented unstretched polyester filler yarn having a melting point of 230 to 245 ° C is used as the component B, and the false twist temperature is a temperature satisfying the following condition (4). Production method.
(4) mpx-30 ° C ≤ false twisting temperature (° C) ≤ mpx-15 ° C
Here, mpx represents the melting point (° C.) of the highly oriented unstretched polyester filler yarn.
（５）ｍｐｙ−３０℃≦仮撚温度（℃）≦ｍｐｙ＋１０℃
ただし、ｍｐｙは、芯鞘複合繊維の鞘部のポリエステルの融点（℃）を示す。 A filament yarn composed of a core-sheath composite fiber having a core part of polyethylene terephthalate having a melting point of 250 to 260 ° C. and a sheath part of polyester having a melting point of 150 to 200 ° C. is used as component B, and false twisting temperature is set to the following condition (5): The method for producing a composite false twisted yarn according to claim 8, wherein the temperature is satisfied.
(5) mpy-30 ° C. ≦ false twisting temperature (° C.) ≦ mpy + 10 ° C.
However, mpy shows melting | fusing point (degreeC) of polyester of the sheath part of a core sheath composite fiber.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2012165454A JP6015197B2 (en) | 2012-07-26 | 2012-07-26 | Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric thereof, and method for producing composite false twisted yarn |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2012165454A JP6015197B2 (en) | 2012-07-26 | 2012-07-26 | Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric thereof, and method for producing composite false twisted yarn |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2014025162A JP2014025162A (en) | 2014-02-06 |
| JP6015197B2 true JP6015197B2 (en) | 2016-10-26 |
Family
ID=50199059
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2012165454A Active JP6015197B2 (en) | 2012-07-26 | 2012-07-26 | Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric thereof, and method for producing composite false twisted yarn |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP6015197B2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN106647593A (en) * | 2017-02-22 | 2017-05-10 | 苏州普力玛智能电子有限公司 | Quality monitoring method and system of false-twisting yarns |
Family Cites Families (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP3476335B2 (en) * | 1997-05-20 | 2003-12-10 | 三菱レイヨン株式会社 | Acetate strong twisted composite false twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same |
| JPH11200168A (en) * | 1998-01-13 | 1999-07-27 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Hard twisted yarn-like false twisted yarn and its production |
| JP2002030532A (en) * | 2000-07-18 | 2002-01-31 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | False twist yarn, method for producing the same and woven or knit fabric |
-
2012
- 2012-07-26 JP JP2012165454A patent/JP6015197B2/en active Active
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP2014025162A (en) | 2014-02-06 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| JP7135854B2 (en) | Eccentric core-sheath composite fiber and mixed fiber yarn | |
| KR20010049484A (en) | Soft Stretch Yarns and Process for the Preparation Thereof | |
| JP2006214056A (en) | Woven fabric | |
| JP4292763B2 (en) | Composite fabric and manufacturing method thereof | |
| JP2002155449A (en) | Woven fabric | |
| JP3545749B2 (en) | Worsted-like fabric and method for producing the same | |
| JP2012087418A (en) | Worsted-tone elastic fabric | |
| JP6015197B2 (en) | Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric thereof, and method for producing composite false twisted yarn | |
| JP2006077338A (en) | Stretchable shirting fabric | |
| JP2001303378A (en) | Conjugate yarn | |
| JP7292066B2 (en) | Mixed additional twisted yarn and woven and knitted fabrics | |
| JP6270427B2 (en) | Double-layer spun yarn, woven and knitted fabric, and method for producing woven and knitted fabric | |
| JP3988422B2 (en) | Method for producing composite fabric | |
| JP4123646B2 (en) | Polyester fiber yarn and fabric | |
| JP2001064839A (en) | Long and short composite yarn | |
| JP3680723B2 (en) | Weaving fabric | |
| JP3972631B2 (en) | Polyester composite false twisted yarn and method for producing the same | |
| JP2006219796A (en) | Woven fabric | |
| JP2019123970A (en) | Woven fabric | |
| JP3531531B2 (en) | Long / short fiber composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the yarn | |
| JP2003247130A (en) | Textured yarn and method of production for the same | |
| JP2010031428A (en) | Worsted-tone filament woven fabric | |
| JP2004183193A (en) | Woven fabric | |
| JP2006257632A (en) | Composite fabric | |
| JP4380519B2 (en) | Method for producing soft stretch yarn |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| A621 | Written request for application examination |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A621 Effective date: 20150708 |
|
| A977 | Report on retrieval |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A971007 Effective date: 20160513 |
|
| A131 | Notification of reasons for refusal |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A131 Effective date: 20160524 |
|
| A521 | Written amendment |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A523 Effective date: 20160715 |
|
| A711 | Notification of change in applicant |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A712 Effective date: 20160715 |
|
| TRDD | Decision of grant or rejection written | ||
| A01 | Written decision to grant a patent or to grant a registration (utility model) |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A01 Effective date: 20160830 |
|
| A61 | First payment of annual fees (during grant procedure) |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A61 Effective date: 20160912 |
|
| R151 | Written notification of patent or utility model registration |
Ref document number: 6015197 Country of ref document: JP Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: R151 |
|
| S533 | Written request for registration of change of name |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: R313533 |
|
| R350 | Written notification of registration of transfer |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: R350 |