JP3476335B2 - Acetate strong twisted composite false twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same - Google Patents

Acetate strong twisted composite false twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same

Info

Publication number
JP3476335B2
JP3476335B2 JP12966697A JP12966697A JP3476335B2 JP 3476335 B2 JP3476335 B2 JP 3476335B2 JP 12966697 A JP12966697 A JP 12966697A JP 12966697 A JP12966697 A JP 12966697A JP 3476335 B2 JP3476335 B2 JP 3476335B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
polyester
twist
acetate
untwisted
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
JP12966697A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH10325026A (en
Inventor
庄次 金谷
多美子 安田
展弘 山口
隆 福沢
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Mitsubishi Chemical Corp, Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd filed Critical Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Priority to JP12966697A priority Critical patent/JP3476335B2/en
Publication of JPH10325026A publication Critical patent/JPH10325026A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP3476335B2 publication Critical patent/JP3476335B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は繊細なシャリ感や優
れたドレープ性を持ち、かつソフトで嵩高な風合いを併
せ持ち、織編物に紡績糸調の表面斑感を与えるアセテー
ト強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸及びそれを用いた織編物に関
する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an acetate strong twist yarn-like composite false twist which has a delicate sharpness and excellent drapeability, and also has a soft and bulky texture, and gives a woven or knitted fabric a surface irregularity like a spun yarn. The present invention relates to a textured yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the textured yarn.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】シャリ感、ドライ感、張り腰感を有する
涼感素材は、一般に撚糸機を用いて実撚を付与すること
で得られるが、このような風合いを増す為に設定撚数が
増加することで生産性は低下し、又風合いも粗剛で硬
く、軽量感に乏しいものとなりやすい。一般的にこの織
編物は均一な表面形態を狙う物である。
2. Description of the Related Art A cool feeling material having a dry feeling, a dry feeling, and a tight feeling is generally obtained by applying a real twist using a twisting machine, but the number of set twists is increased to increase such a texture. By doing so, the productivity is lowered, and the texture is rough and rigid, and the feeling of lightness tends to be poor. Generally, this woven or knitted product aims for a uniform surface morphology.

【0003】そこで、仮撚加工手法により、実撚を残存
させる手法が種々提案されている。通常の定常仮撚加工
において、仮撚スラブを生成せしめる方式、融着温度条
件を用いることで数cm程度以下の短い長さのSZ交互
撚を形成せしめる方式、非定常な仮撚手法によって数十
cm以上の長ピッチSZ交互撚を形成せしめる方式に大
別される。
Therefore, various methods have been proposed for leaving the actual twist by the false twist method. In the normal steady false twisting process, a method of forming a false twist slab, a method of forming an SZ alternating twist with a short length of about several cm or less by using a fusion temperature condition, and a non-steady false twist method are used. It is roughly classified into a method of forming a long pitch SZ alternating twist of cm or more.

【0004】仮撚スラブを生成せしめる方式は、例えば
特公昭45−28018号公報や特公昭47−4945
4号公報等数多く提案されており、具体的には芯糸に対
する花糸の供給量を多くし、花糸を芯糸に強く捲回させ
スラブを形成させる手法である。スラブ部の撚り数は加
撚方向撚に固定され解撚されないため、スラブ部以外の
道中部は過解撚状態となり、SZ交互撚が形成される。
しかしこの加工糸は麻調のシャリ風合いを持つが、織編
物に紡績糸調の表面斑感を与えるものではない。
A method for producing a false twist slab is, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 45-28018 or Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-4945.
A large number of proposals such as Japanese Patent No. 4 have been proposed. Specifically, this is a method of increasing the supply amount of the filament yarn to the core yarn and strongly winding the filament yarn around the core yarn to form a slab. Since the number of twists in the slab portion is fixed to the twisting direction and is not untwisted, the middle portion other than the slab portion is in the overtwisted state, and the SZ alternating twist is formed.
However, although this textured yarn has a linen-like texture, it does not give the woven or knitted fabric a spun yarn-like surface unevenness.

【0005】融着温度条件を用いることで数cm程度以
下の短い長さのSZ交互撚を形成せしめる方式は、例え
ば特開昭52−70143号公報や特開昭56−910
18号公報等提案されており、具体的には仮撚熱固定温
度を融着温度付近の高温条件をとるか、溶融温度が不明
確なアクリルニトリル系合成繊維や溶融温度が低い部分
未延伸糸等を用い高温融着仮撚を行い、フィラメント間
相互の融着により解撚不良が生じ、未解撚部と過解撚部
を形成する手法である。この加工糸は未(過)解撚部が
多い場合シャリ感に優れるが、張り腰が強すぎドレープ
性が劣る欠点を持ち、又数cm程度以下の短い長さのS
Z交互撚である為織編物に紡績糸調の表面斑感を与える
ものではない。未(過)解撚部が少ない場合、嵩高性に
富むが強撚調風合いは得られない。
A method for forming an SZ alternating twist having a short length of about several cm or less by using a fusion temperature condition is disclosed in, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 52-70143 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 56-910.
No. 18, gazettes have been proposed. Specifically, a false twist heat fixing temperature is set to a high temperature near the fusion temperature, or an acrylonitrile-based synthetic fiber having an uncertain melting temperature or a partially undrawn yarn having a low melting temperature. Is a method of forming a non-twisted portion and an overtwisted portion by performing high-temperature fusion false-twisting using the above, etc., and untwisting occurs due to mutual fusion between filaments. This processed yarn is excellent in sharpness when there are many un-excessive untwisted parts, but it has the drawback of being too tight and inferior in drapability, and it has a short length of several cm or less.
Since it is Z alternate twist, it does not give the woven and knitted fabric a feeling of spun yarn-like surface unevenness. When the number of un-extracted untwisted parts is small, the bulkiness is high, but a strong twist texture cannot be obtained.

【0006】非定常な仮撚手法によって数十cm以上の
長い長さのSZ交互撚を形成せしめる方式は、例えば特
公平3−75648号公報や特公平3−17934号公
報、特許第2533084号等に提案されている。具体
的にはエア旋回流を用いて積極的に仮撚数を変化させる
非定常仮撚であるが、この加工糸はSZ撚部のフィラメ
ント間相互の融着が無い為、熱固定性の劣るアセテート
繊維を含む場合、糸の集束性が劣り、製織等張力がかか
る条件下では交互撚の変換部において撚数が相互に打ち
消し合いやすく、又嵩高な無撚部が存在し易いためシャ
リ感不足になりやすい。
A method of forming an SZ alternating twist having a long length of several tens of cm or more by an unsteady false twist method is disclosed in, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-75648, Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-17934, and Japanese Patent No. 2533084. Has been proposed to. Specifically, it is an unsteady false twist in which the number of false twists is positively changed by using an air swirling flow, but this processed yarn is inferior in heat fixability because there is no mutual fusion of filaments in the SZ twisted portion. When it contains acetate fibers, the yarn does not bundle well, and under the condition that tension such as weaving is applied, the number of twists tends to cancel each other in the alternating twisting conversion part, and the bulky untwisted part tends to exist, resulting in lack of crispness. It is easy to become.

【0007】[0007]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明はかかる従来の
問題点を解消し、織編物に紡績糸調の表面斑感を付与
し、嵩高でかつシャリ感とドレープ性を併せ持ち、糸の
集束性が良好なアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸及び
その織編物を提供するものである。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, imparts a spun yarn-like surface unevenness to a woven or knitted fabric, is bulky, and has both sharpness and drapeability, and has a yarn bundleability. And a woven or knitted product thereof, which has a good acetate strong twist yarn-like composite false twisted textured yarn.

【0008】[0008]

【課題を解決するための手段】上記課題を解決する本発
明のアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸は、アセテート
糸を含むマルチフィラメント糸条にSZ交互撚りが加撚
されたアセテート複合仮撚加工糸において、前記マルチ
フィラメント糸条が、太細ポリエステル糸、易染性ポリ
エステル糸、常圧可染ポリエステル糸、高配向ポリエス
テル未延伸糸から選ばれるいずれか一種以上を含み、
0〜150cmの未解撚部1と40〜150cmの過解
撚部2とが繊維長手方向に沿って交互に形成され、未解
撚部1および過解撚部2の長さの和が、糸条全体の長さ
に対して70%〜95%であり、未解撚部1及び/又は
過解撚部2の芯部の少なくとも一部に融着部が形成さ
れ、未解撚部1と過解撚部2との間に、1〜50mmの
未解撚部4および1〜50mmの過解撚部5とを含む5
〜30cmの混在構造部3を有することを特徴とする。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An acetate strong twist composite false twisted yarn according to the present invention which solves the above problems is an acetate composite false twisted yarn in which an SZ alternating twist is twisted on a multifilament yarn containing an acetate yarn. In the yarn, the multi
The filament yarn is thick polyester yarn, easy-to-dye poly
Ester yarn, normal pressure dyeable polyester yarn, highly oriented polyester
Includes one or more selected from un-stretched yarn
A non-untwisting unit 1 and 40~150cm over-untwisting unit 2 of 0~150cm are formed alternately along the fiber longitudinal direction, unresolved
The sum of the lengths of the twisted portion 1 and the overtwisted portion 2 is the total length of the yarn.
To 70% to 95%, and a fused portion is formed on at least part of the core of the untwisted portion 1 and / or the overtwisted portion 2, and the untwisted portion 1 and the overtwisted portion 2 5 including an untwisted portion 4 of 1 to 50 mm and an overtwisted portion 5 of 1 to 50 mm between
It is characterized by having a mixed structure part 3 of ˜30 cm.

【0009】本発明によれば、織編物に紡績糸調の表面
斑感を付与し、嵩高でかつシャリ感とドレープ性を併せ
持ち、糸の集束性が良好な強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸が提
供される。
According to the present invention, a strong twisted yarn-like composite false-twisted yarn which imparts a spun yarn-like surface unevenness to a woven or knitted fabric, is bulky, has a sharpness and a drape property, and has a good yarn converging property. Provided.

【0010】[0010]

【発明の実施の形態】以下、図面を参照して本発明を詳
細に説明する。図1は本発明のアセテート強撚糸調複合
仮撚加工糸の一例を示す模式図であり、加撚方向の未解
撚撚り部1、解撚方向の過解撚撚り部2および混在構造
部3を有している。
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of an acetate strong twist yarn composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. An untwisted twisted portion 1 in a twisting direction, an overtwisted twisted portion 2 in a twisting direction, and a mixed structure portion 3 are shown. have.

【0011】混在構造部3は未解撚部4および過解撚部
5を含む。これらの長さはいずれも1〜50mmであ
る。このような長さとすることにより良好な後工程通過
性を得ることができる。
The mixed structure portion 3 includes an untwisted portion 4 and an overtwisted portion 5. All of these lengths are 1 to 50 mm. With such a length, good post-process passability can be obtained.

【0012】混在構造部3は、さらに50mm以下の長
さの開繊部6を含んでいてもよい。ここで、開繊部6と
は糸長10mm当たり100T/m以下の実質上の無撚
部のものをいう。
The mixed structure section 3 may further include an opening section 6 having a length of 50 mm or less. Here, the spread portion 6 refers to a substantially untwisted portion having a yarn length of 10 T or less per 10 mm.

【0013】本発明のアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工
糸は、残撚部の芯部の少なくとも一部に融着部を有す
る。これにより、粗剛ではなく良好なシャリ感と風合い
及び集束性を得ることができる。融着部の形成は、アセ
テート糸と特定の糸を組み合わせることにより達成され
る。
The acetate false twist composite false twisted yarn of the present invention has a fused portion on at least a part of the core portion of the residual twist portion. As a result, it is possible to obtain good sharpness, texture, and converging property instead of rough and rigid. The formation of the fused portion is achieved by combining an acetate yarn and a specific yarn.

【0014】この特定糸は比較的低温で熱変形しやすい
特性を持つものであり、熱固定性が劣り、糸強度の低い
アセテート糸との複合形態をとっても、強撚状態の残撚
部の一部に融着部を形成することができる。
This specific yarn has the property of being easily thermally deformed at a relatively low temperature, has a poor heat setting property, and has a composite form with an acetate yarn having a low yarn strength. A fused portion can be formed on the portion.

【0015】本発明のアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工
糸は、例えば特開平8−284033号公報に開示され
ている方法により製造することができる。図2に本発明
の加工糸を製造する装置の一例を示す。本図において2
本以上のマルチフィラメント糸E、Fを引き揃え状態で
マグネットテンサー21に通し一定張力を与え、ガイド
22を通して、第1ヒーター24と仮撚スピンドル25
とで仮撚加工し、第1デリベリローラー26で引き取
る。ついで第2ヒーター27で熱セットし、第2デリベ
リローラー28を通し、捲取り機29で巻き取る。
The acetate strong twist yarn composite false twisted yarn of the present invention can be produced, for example, by the method disclosed in JP-A-8-284033. FIG. 2 shows an example of an apparatus for producing the textured yarn of the present invention. 2 in this figure
A plurality of multi-filament yarns E and F are passed through the magnet tensor 21 in a state where they are aligned and given a constant tension.
The false twisting process is performed with and is taken up by the first delivery roller 26. Then, heat is set by the second heater 27, passed through the second delivery roller 28, and wound by the winder 29.

【0016】通常の仮撚加工の場合、仮撚スピンドルの
加撚数と解撚数は等しく、糸条Hは捲縮状態の無撚部と
なる。これに対し、本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造において
は、仮撚スピンドルの回転を停止することなく同方向に
回転数を瞬時に増減することで実撚りを残存させる。す
なわち、仮撚スピンドル回転数を瞬時に減少させた場合
には加撚方向の未解撚撚りが残存し、仮撚スピンドル回
転数を瞬時に増加させた場合には糸条Hの保有する撚数
以上を解撚することとなり、糸条Gには解撚方向の過解
撚撚りが残存する。
In the case of ordinary false twisting, the twisting and untwisting numbers of the false twisting spindle are equal, and the yarn H is a crimped untwisted portion. On the other hand, in the production of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention, the actual twist is left by instantaneously increasing or decreasing the number of revolutions in the same direction without stopping the rotation of the false twist spindle. That is, when the false twist spindle speed is instantly decreased, untwisted twists in the twisting direction remain, and when the false twist spindle speed is instantly increased, the number of twists held by the yarn H is increased. Since the above is untwisted, the over-twisted twist in the untwisting direction remains in the yarn G.

【0017】ここで、仮撚スピンドル回転数を変化させ
た際、仮撚数と解撚数が等しくなる撚方向反転部が発生
する。通常この様な撚方向反転部は、構成繊維の絡みが
少なく糸割れした開繊領域となるため、後工程通過性が
劣ったり、シャリ感不足の原因となる。このため、撚方
向反転部の長さを極力短くすることが望ましい。これ
は、上記のように仮撚スピンドル回転数切り替えを瞬時
に行うことにより達成することができる。これにより、
本発明の仮撚加工糸の特徴である撚方向反転部が短くか
つ構成繊維の絡みが多い構造を実現することができる。
Here, when the number of false twist spindle rotations is changed, a twist direction reversal portion in which the number of false twists and the number of untwisting are equal to each other is generated. Usually, such a twist direction reversal portion is an open area in which the constituent fibers are less entangled and the yarn is cracked, resulting in poor passability in the post-process and lack of sharpness. Therefore, it is desirable to make the length of the twist direction reversal portion as short as possible. This can be achieved by instantaneously switching the false twist spindle rotation speed as described above. This allows
It is possible to realize a structure in which the twist direction reversal portion is short and the constituent fibers are often entangled, which is a feature of the false twisted yarn of the present invention.

【0018】本発明において、未解撚部から過解撚部へ
の撚り方向変換部には急激な仮撚数減少に伴う瞬間的な
低張力下により混在構造部が形成される。この混在構造
部は、1〜50mmの短い長さの未解撚部および過解撚
部を含む。50mm以下の長さの開繊部を含んでいても
よい。また、過解撚部から未解撚部への撚り方向変換部
では、高撚数条件下で低収縮構成フィラメントであるア
セテート糸がSZ交互巻き付き構造を取る傾向がある。
In the present invention, the mixed structure portion is formed in the twist direction conversion portion from the untwisted portion to the overtwisted portion under the momentary low tension due to the rapid decrease in the false twist number. The mixed structure portion includes untwisted portions and overtwisted portions having a short length of 1 to 50 mm. You may include the opening part of 50 mm or less in length. Further, in the twist direction conversion portion from the overtwisted portion to the untwisted portion, the acetate yarn, which is a low shrinkage constituent filament, tends to have an SZ alternating winding structure under a high twist number condition.

【0019】本発明における混在構造部3は、5〜30
cm、好ましくは10〜30cmとし、未解撚部1およ
び解撚部2をいずれも40〜150cmとする。これに
より、後工程通過性が向上し、嵩高性を抑制しシャリ感
不足を解消することができる。また、未解撚部1および
過解撚部2の長さの和は、糸条全体の長さに対して70
%以上95%以下であることが好ましく、70%以上9
0%以下とすることがさらに好ましい。この比率が70
%未満であると、混在構造部3の比率が大きくなり、ふ
くらみが多い嵩高糸調の風合いとなって強撚糸調の風合
いが低減される場合がある。一方、95%以上である場
合、嵩高部の異色斑感、ふくらみ感が不足し、比較的お
となしい織編物表面となるため好ましくない。
The mixed structure part 3 in the present invention has 5 to 30 parts.
cm, preferably 10 to 30 cm, and the untwisted portion 1 and the untwisted portion 2 are both 40 to 150 cm. Thereby, the post-process passability is improved, bulkiness is suppressed, and lack of sharpness can be eliminated. The sum of the lengths of the untwisted portion 1 and the overtwisted portion 2 is 70 with respect to the length of the entire yarn.
% Or more and 95% or less, preferably 70% or more 9
It is more preferable to set it to 0% or less. This ratio is 70
When it is less than%, the proportion of the mixed structure portion 3 becomes large, and a bulky yarn-like texture with a large amount of bulge may be produced, and a strongly twisted yarn-like texture may be reduced. On the other hand, when it is 95% or more, the unevenness and swelling feeling of the bulky part are insufficient, and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes relatively soft, which is not preferable.

【0020】未解撚部1、解撚部2および混在構造部3
を上記の長さとするためには、仮撚スピンドル回転数の
切り替え時間を適宜調整することにより達成できる。
Untwisted portion 1, untwisted portion 2 and mixed structure portion 3
The above length can be achieved by appropriately adjusting the switching time of the false twist spindle rotation speed.

【0021】本発明におけるアセテート糸とは、ジアセ
テート、トリアセテート等の半合成繊維をいう。
The acetate yarn in the present invention means a semi-synthetic fiber such as diacetate or triacetate.

【0022】 本発明で用いるアセテート糸以外のマル
チフィラメント糸としては、ポリエステル、ポリアミ
ド、ポリアクリロニトリル等の合成織維マルチフィラメ
ント糸が用いられ、太細ポリエステル糸、易染性ポリエ
ステル糸、常圧可染ポリエステル糸、高配向ポリエステ
ル未延伸糸から選ばれるいずれか一種以上を含むことが
好ましい。加工糸の集束性、風合いを向上させることが
できるからである。
Examples of the multifilament yarn other than acetate yarn used in the present invention, polyesters, polyamides, synthetic O維multifilament yarns such as polyacrylonitrile are used, FutoshiHoso polyester yarn, easy dyeable polyether
It is preferable to include at least one selected from the group consisting of steal yarn , polyester dyeable under atmospheric pressure, and unoriented yarn of highly oriented polyester. This is because it is possible to improve the bundling property and texture of the processed yarn.

【0023】本発明における太細ポリエステル糸は、3
0cm以下の糸斑波長の頻度が45%以上であるシック
部が残留した高分散型の太細ポリエステル糸を用いるこ
とが好ましい。融着構造は融着温度が低いシック部によ
って得られるため、このシック部が適度に分散している
と混在構造での集束性が更に良好となるからである。ま
た、複屈折率0.015〜0.040であるポリエステ
ル未延伸糸を下記(1)〜(5)を満たす条件で2段延
伸して得られるものであることが更に好ましい。 (1)MDR×0.45≦TDR≦MDR×0.55 (2)TDR=DR1×DR2 (3)MDR×0.40≦DR1≦MDR×0.50 (4)HRT≦TC (5)Tg≦HPT≦TC (但し、式中TDRは総延伸倍率、DR1は第1段延伸
倍率、DR2は第2段延伸倍率、MDRは前記ポリエス
テル未延伸糸の最大延伸倍率、HRTは第1段延伸時の
温度(℃)、HPTは第2段延伸時の温度(℃)、TC
は前記ポリエステル未延伸糸の結晶化温度(℃)、Tg
は前記ポリエステル未延伸糸のガラス転移温度(℃)で
ある。)
The thick and thin polyester yarn used in the present invention is 3
It is preferable to use a high-dispersion type thick and thin polyester yarn in which a chic portion having a frequency of a yarn spot wavelength of 0 cm or less and 45% or more remains. This is because the fusion structure is obtained by the chic portion having a low fusion temperature, and therefore, if the chic portions are dispersed appropriately, the converging property in the mixed structure is further improved. Further, it is more preferable that the unstretched polyester yarn having a birefringence of 0.015 to 0.040 is obtained by two-stage stretching under the conditions satisfying the following (1) to (5). (1) MDR × 0.45 ≦ TDR ≦ MDR × 0.55 (2) TDR = DR1 × DR2 (3) MDR × 0.40 ≦ DR1 ≦ MDR × 0.50 (4) HRT ≦ TC (5) Tg ≤ HPT ≤ TC (where TDR is the total draw ratio, DR1 is the first draw ratio, DR2 is the second draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the polyester undrawn yarn, and HRT is the first draw ratio. Temperature (° C), HPT is the temperature (° C) during the second drawing, TC
Is the crystallization temperature (° C) of the polyester undrawn yarn, Tg
Is the glass transition temperature (° C.) of the polyester undrawn yarn. )

【0024】 本発明における太細ポリエステル糸は以
下の物性を有することが好ましい。すなわち、シック部
結晶化度5〜15%、更に好ましくは10%程度であ
り、シン部は18〜28%、更に好ましくは24%程度
である。またシック部複屈折率0.015〜0.05
、更に好ましくは0.020程度であり、シン部は
0.060〜0.200、更に好ましくは0.160
度である。
The thick and thin polyester yarn according to the present invention preferably has the following physical properties. That is, the crystallinity of the thick portion is 5 to 15%, more preferably about 10%, and the thin portion is 18 to 28%, further preferably about 24%. The birefringence of the chic part is 0.015 to 0.05
0 , more preferably about 0.020 , and the thin portion is about 0.060 to 0.200 , further preferably about 0.160 .

【0025】 融着構造は融着温度が低いシック部によ
って得られるため、このシック部の結晶化度が5%以下
であれば繊維の経時的劣化性が高く実用性に乏しく、ま
た15%以上であれば融着特性を期待しにくい。また同
様に複屈折率が0.015以下では繊維の経時的劣化性
が高く実用性に乏しく、また0.050以上であれば融
着特性を期待しにくい。
Since the fused structure is obtained by the chic portion having a low fusion temperature, if the crystallinity of this chic portion is 5% or less, the deterioration property of the fiber over time is high and the practicality is poor, and 15% or more. If so, it is difficult to expect fusion characteristics. Similarly, if the birefringence is 0.015 or less, the fiber deteriorates with time and is not practical, and if it is 0.050 or more, it is difficult to expect the fusion property.

【0026】 本発明における常圧可染ポリエステル糸
、アジピン酸成分を10〜20モル%共重合させたポ
リエステル共重合体からなり、下記(1)〜(3)を満
たす常圧可染ポリエステル糸であることが好ましい。 (1)動的粘弾性測定によるtanδピーク温度が90
℃以上120℃以下である。 (2)分散染料での染色における染着飽和温度が80℃
以上110℃以下である。 (3)DS×DE1/2≧22(但し、DSは繊維強
度、DEは破断伸度を示す)
Atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester yarn according to the present invention
Is preferably a polyester dye which is obtained by copolymerizing an adipic acid component in an amount of 10 to 20 mol%, and which is dyed at atmospheric pressure and satisfies the following (1) to (3). (1) The tan δ peak temperature measured by dynamic viscoelasticity is 90.
The temperature is not less than ℃ and not more than 120 ℃. (2) The dyeing saturation temperature in dyeing with a disperse dye is 80 ° C.
It is above 110 ° C. (3) DS × DE 1/2 ≧ 22 (however, DS indicates fiber strength and DE indicates breaking elongation)

【0027】tanδピーク温度が90℃以下の場合、
又は分散試料での染色における染着飽和温度が80℃以
下の場合、製糸性が劣るため実用性に乏しい。またta
nδピーク温度が120℃以上の場合、又は分散試料で
の染色における染着飽和温度が110℃以上の場合、ア
セテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸に融着部を得難いた
め、好ましくない。
When the tan δ peak temperature is 90 ° C. or lower,
Alternatively, when the dyeing saturation temperature in dyeing with the dispersed sample is 80 ° C. or lower, the yarn formability is poor and the practicality is poor. Also ta
When the nδ peak temperature is 120 ° C. or higher, or when the dyeing saturation temperature in dyeing the dispersion sample is 110 ° C. or higher, it is difficult to obtain a fused portion in the acetate strong twist-like composite false twisted yarn, which is not preferable.

【0028】 また本発明における易染性ポリエステル
糸は、下記(1)及び(2)を満たす易染性ポリエステ
ル糸であることが好ましい。 (1)伸度22〜55%、複屈折率0.08〜0.12
である。 (2)動的粘弾性測定によるtanδピーク温度が10
5℃以上120℃以下で、tanδピーク値が0.13
0以上0.200以下である。 このポリエステル糸は、高速捲取り機で6000m/分
以上の速度で紡糸後直接巻き取られたものであることが
好ましい。
Further, the easily dyeable polyester of the present invention
The yarn is preferably an easily dyeable polyester yarn satisfying the following (1) and (2). (1) Elongation 22 to 55%, birefringence 0.08 to 0.12.
Is. (2) The tan δ peak temperature measured by dynamic viscoelasticity is 10
The tan δ peak value is 0.13 at 5 ° C to 120 ° C.
It is 0 or more and 0.200 or less. It is preferable that the polyester yarn is directly wound after being spun at a speed of 6000 m / min or more by a high-speed winding machine.

【0029】[0029]

【実施例】以下実施例により、本発明を具体的に説明す
る。
The present invention will be specifically described with reference to the following examples.

【0030】[実施例1]ランダムに信号を制御可能な
サーボモーター駆動方式の仮撚スピンドルを設置した図
2に示す仮撚加工機を用いて、トリアセテート糸(ブラ
イト150d/24f)と太細ポリエステル糸(セミダ
ル100d/72f:ディラメトリ法で測定したガラス
転移点温度71℃、走査熱量計で測定した結晶化温度1
27℃、複屈折率0.020、繊度165d/72fで
あるポリエステル未延伸糸を、第1段階延伸(延伸倍率
1.647、温度100℃)、第2段階延伸(延伸倍率
1.01、温度105℃)して得た糸斑波長30cm以
下の頻度が47%であるシック部が残留した高分散型の
太細ポリエステル糸)を用いて、マグネットテンサーに
よる給糸張力7g/Y(仮撚スピンドル回転数一定
時)、第1ヒーター温度185℃、第1デリベリローラ
ー速度40m/分、第2ヒーター温度290℃、第1デ
リベリローラー/第2デリベリローラー間オーバーフィ
ード率5%、仮撚スピンドル回転数増減範囲500〜2
800T/m(Z撚方向)、仮撚スピンドル回転数切り
替え時間は1〜2秒の範囲でランダムに変更した条件で
仮撚加工を行った。
Example 1 A triacetate yarn (bright 150d / 24f) and a thick and thin polyester were used by using a false twisting machine shown in FIG. Yarn (Semi-Dal 100d / 72f: glass transition temperature 71 ° C measured by dilatometry, crystallization temperature 1 measured by scanning calorimeter)
First stage drawing (stretching ratio 1.647, temperature 100 ° C.), second stage drawing (stretching ratio 1.01, temperature) 105 ° C.), high-dispersion type thick and thin polyester yarn with a chic portion having a yarn unevenness wavelength of 30 cm or less and a frequency of 47%) is used, and the yarn tension is 7 g / Y (false twist spindle rotation) by a magnet tensor. Number constant), 1st heater temperature 185 ° C, 1st delivery roller speed 40m / min, 2nd heater temperature 290 ° C, 5% overfeed ratio between 1st delivery roller / 2nd delivery roller, false twist spindle Rotational speed increase / decrease range 500-2
The false twisting process was performed under the conditions of 800 T / m (Z twisting direction) and the false twisting spindle rotation speed switching time randomly changed within a range of 1 to 2 seconds.

【0031】得られた本発明の加工糸は、未解撚部1
(Z撚部)及び過解撚部2(S撚部)の長さが60〜1
40cmの範囲であった。また25mm以下の長さの未
解撚部、過解撚部、開繊部の混在構造部3が不規則に1
0〜20cm存在していた。特に開繊部は最大25mm
であり、この時A部及びB部の占める割合は85%であ
った。また本発明の加工糸の芯部に高分散型の太細ポリ
エステル糸が偏在し、残撚り部では特に単フィラメント
毎に高分散したシック部同士が融着していていることを
繊維断面のSEM観察により確認した。得られた加工糸
は、粗剛ではなく良好なシャリ感と風合いを持ち、糸形
態安定性に優れたものであった。この加工糸を用いて、
丸編み機(24G、44inch)で天竺編み物を編成
し、120℃で染色した。この編み物は加工糸の見かけ
太細斑に加えて、高分散した太細ポリエステルに起因し
た濃淡斑を持つため、表面変化に富む紡績糸調の斑感を
有し、ふくらみ感を持ちながら、かつシャリ感とドレー
プ性を併せ持った強撚糸調のシルキースパン編み物であ
った。
The textured yarn of the present invention obtained is the untwisted portion 1
(Z twisted portion) and overtwisted portion 2 (S twisted portion) have a length of 60 to 1
It was in the range of 40 cm. Moreover, the mixed structure part 3 of the untwisted part, the overtwisted part, and the opening part having a length of 25 mm or less is irregularly 1
There was 0 to 20 cm. In particular, the open part is up to 25 mm
At this time, the proportion occupied by the parts A and B was 85%. In addition, a high-dispersion type thick and thin polyester yarn is unevenly distributed in the core portion of the processed yarn of the present invention, and particularly in the residual twist portion, the highly dispersed chic portions of each single filament are fused to each other. Confirmed by observation. The obtained textured yarn was not coarse and rigid, had a good crispness and texture, and was excellent in yarn form stability. Using this processed yarn,
The plain knitted fabric was knitted by a circular knitting machine (24G, 44 inch) and dyed at 120 ° C. In addition to the apparent thick and thin spots of the processed yarn, this knitted fabric has dark and light spots due to the highly dispersed thick and thin polyester, so that it has a spun yarn-like unevenness with a rich surface change and a swelling feeling, and It was a silky-spun knitted fabric with a strong twisted yarn tone that had both sharpness and drape.

【0032】[実施例2]トリアセテート糸(ブライト
150d/24f)と常圧可染ポリエステル糸(セミダ
ル75d/36f:アジピン酸成分16重量%共重合し
たポリエステル共重合体、走査熱量計で測定したガラス
転移点温度47℃、融点220℃、動的粘弾性で測定し
たtanδピーク温度99℃、分散染料での染色におけ
る染着飽和温度が90℃、DS×DE1/2=25.9
(但し、DSは繊維強度、DEは破断伸度を示す)を用
いて、第1ヒーター温度190℃とした以外実施例1と
同様にして加工糸を得た。
Example 2 Triacetate yarn (Bright 150d / 24f) and atmospheric dyeable polyester yarn (Semidal 75d / 36f: polyester copolymer copolymerized with 16% by weight of adipic acid component, glass measured with a scanning calorimeter) Transition temperature 47 ° C., melting point 220 ° C., tan δ peak temperature 99 ° C. measured by dynamic viscoelasticity, dyeing saturation temperature in dyeing with disperse dyes 90 ° C., DS × DE 1/2 = 25.9
A textured yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the temperature of the first heater was 190 ° C. (however, DS is the fiber strength and DE is the breaking elongation).

【0033】得られた本発明の加工糸は、未解撚部1及
び過解撚部2の長さが45〜125cmの範囲であり、
また1〜30mm以下の長さの未解撚部、過解撚部、開
繊部の混在構造部3が不規則に15〜30cm存在して
おり、特に開繊部は最大30mmであり、この時A部及
びB部の占める割合は75%であった。また本発明の加
工糸の芯部に常圧可染ポリエステル糸が偏在し、残撚り
部では特に芯部で一部融着していた。得られた加工糸
は、粗剛ではなく良好なシャリ感と風合いを持ち、糸形
態安定性に優れたものであった。実施例1と同様に編み
立て、110℃で染色した編み物は、加工糸の見かけ太
細斑に加えて、トリアセテート部が淡色かつ光沢感に富
み、常圧可染ポリエステル糸との色差が明瞭に表現され
ることで、表面変化に富む紡績糸調の斑感を有し、ふく
らみ感を持ちながら、かつシャリ感とドレープ性を併せ
持った強撚糸調のシルキースパン編み物であった。
In the obtained textured yarn of the present invention, the length of the untwisted portion 1 and the overtwisted portion 2 is in the range of 45 to 125 cm,
Moreover, the mixed structure part 3 of the untwisted part, the overtwisted part, and the opening part having a length of 1 to 30 mm or less is irregularly present in an amount of 15 to 30 cm, and particularly the opening part has a maximum length of 30 mm. The proportion occupied by parts A and B was 75%. Further, the polyester yarn dyeable under normal pressure was unevenly distributed in the core portion of the processed yarn of the present invention, and in the residual twist portion, it was partially fused particularly in the core portion. The obtained textured yarn was not coarse and rigid, had a good crispness and texture, and was excellent in yarn form stability. The knitted fabric knitted in the same manner as in Example 1 and dyed at 110 ° C., in addition to the apparent thick and thin spots of the processed yarn, the triacetate part is light and rich in glossiness, and the color difference from the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester yarn becomes clear. As expressed, it was a silky-spun knitted fabric with a strong twisted yarn tone, which has a spun yarn-like unevenness with abundant surface changes and a swelling feel, while having a sharp feel and drape.

【0034】[実施例3]トリアセテート糸(ブライト
100d/26f)と超高速紡糸ポリエステル糸である
易染性ポリエステル糸(ブライト50d/36f、旭化
成(株)製)を用いて、第1ヒーター温度190℃、仮
撚スピンドル回転数増減範囲900〜3500T/m
(Z撚方向)とした以外、実施例1と同様にして本加工
糸を得た。
[Example 3] Using a triacetate yarn (Bright 100d / 26f) and an easily dyeable polyester yarn (Bright 50d / 36f, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) which is an ultra-high speed spinning polyester yarn, the first heater temperature 190 ℃, false twist spindle rotation speed increase / decrease range 900-3500 T / m
The present processed yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that (Z twist direction) was adopted.

【0035】得られた本発明の加工糸は、未解撚部1
(Z撚部)及び過解撚部2(S撚部)の長さが60〜1
40cmの範囲であった。また50mm以下の長さの未
解撚部、過解撚部、開繊部の混在構造部3が不規則に1
0〜25cm存在していた。特に開繊部は最大50mm
であり、この時A部及びB部の占める割合は72%であ
った。また本発明の加工糸の芯部に易染性ポリエステル
糸が偏在し、残撚り部では特に芯部で一部融着してい
た。得られた加工糸は、粗剛ではなく良好なシャリ感と
風合いを持ち、糸形態安定性に優れたものであった。実
施例1と同様に編み立て、染色した編み物は、表面変化
に富む紡績糸調の斑感を有し、ふくらみ感を持ちなが
ら、かつシャリ感とドレープ性を併せ持った強撚糸調の
シルキースパン編み物であった。
The obtained textured yarn of the present invention has an untwisted portion 1
(Z twisted portion) and overtwisted portion 2 (S twisted portion) have a length of 60 to 1
It was in the range of 40 cm. Moreover, the mixed structure part 3 of the untwisted part, the overtwisted part and the open part having a length of 50 mm or less is irregularly 1
There was 0 to 25 cm. In particular, the open part is up to 50 mm
At this time, the proportion occupied by the parts A and B was 72%. Further, the easily dyeable polyester yarn was unevenly distributed in the core portion of the processed yarn of the present invention, and in the residual twist portion, it was partially fused particularly in the core portion. The obtained textured yarn was not coarse and rigid, had a good crispness and texture, and was excellent in yarn form stability. A knitted fabric that was knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 had a silky-spun knitted fabric of a strong twisting yarn-like texture having a fluffy and fluffy texture with a variation in spun yarn-like texture with various surface variations. Met.

【0036】[実施例4]トリアセテート糸(ブライト
150d/24f)と高配向ポリエステル未延伸糸(セ
ミダル80d/36f:複屈折率0.052)を用い
て、第1ヒーター温度180℃とした以外実施例1と同
様にして本加工糸を得た。
[Example 4] Triacetate yarn (Bright 150d / 24f) and highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn (Semidal 80d / 36f: birefringence 0.052) were used, except that the first heater temperature was set to 180 ° C. This processed yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

【0037】得られた本発明の加工糸は、未解撚部1
(Z撚部)及び過解撚部2(S撚部)の長さが50〜1
40cmの範囲であった。また40mm以下の長さの未
解撚部、過解撚部、開繊部の混在構造部3が不規則に1
0〜15cm存在していた。特に開繊部は最大25mm
であり、この時A部及びB部の占める割合は80%であ
った。また本発明の加工糸の芯部に高配向ポリエステル
未延伸糸が偏在し、残撚り部では軽度に融着していた。
得られた加工糸は、粗剛ではなく良好なシャリ感と風合
いを持ち、糸形態安定性に優れたものであった。この加
工糸を用いて、丸編み機(24G、44inch)で天
竺編み物を編成し、120℃で染色した。この編み物は
加工糸の見かけ太細斑に加えて、高配向ポリエステル未
延伸糸とトリアセテート糸との濃淡斑を持つため、表面
変化に富む紡績糸調の斑感を有し、ふくらみ感を持ちな
がら、旦つシャリ感とドレープ性を併せ持った強撚糸調
のシルキースパン編み物であった。
The obtained textured yarn of the present invention has an untwisted portion 1
(Z twisted portion) and over-twisted portion 2 (S twisted portion) have a length of 50 to 1
It was in the range of 40 cm. Moreover, the mixed structure part 3 of the untwisted part, the overtwisted part, and the open part having a length of 40 mm or less is irregularly 1
There was 0 to 15 cm. In particular, the open part is up to 25 mm
At this time, the proportion occupied by the parts A and B was 80%. Further, the highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn was unevenly distributed in the core portion of the processed yarn of the present invention, and was slightly fused in the residual twist portion.
The obtained textured yarn was not coarse and rigid, had a good crispness and texture, and was excellent in yarn form stability. Using this processed yarn, a knitted fabric was knitted with a circular knitting machine (24G, 44 inch) and dyed at 120 ° C. In addition to the apparent thick and thin spots of the processed yarn, this knitted fabric has a dark and light spot of highly oriented polyester unstretched yarn and triacetate yarn. It was a silky-spun knitted fabric with a strong twisted yarn that had both a sharpness and drape.

【0038】[比較例]トリアセテート糸(ブライト1
50d/24f)とポリエステル延伸糸(セミダル10
0d/48f、強度4.9g/Y、伸度27%)を用い
て、第1ヒーター温度190℃、仮撚スピンドル回転数
切り替え時問は0.5〜1秒の範囲でランダムに変更し
た条件とした以外、実施例1と同様にして本加工糸を得
た。得られた比較例の加工糸は、末解撚部1(Z撚部)
及び過解撚部2(S撚部)の長さが20〜50cmの範
囲であった。また未解撚部、過解撚部、開繊部の混在構
造部3は殆ど糸割れした捲縮嵩高開繊部構造となり、3
0〜60cm存在していた。特に開繊部は最大100m
mであり、この時A部及びB部の占める割合は45%で
あった。またこの加工糸の残撚り部の芯部は融着してお
らず、撚方向反転部は比較的長い糸割れした捲縮嵩高開
繊部構造である為、糸形態安定性に劣るものであった。
実施例1と同様に編み立て、染色した編み物は、紡績糸
調の斑感を有するが、嵩高風合いが強く、シャリ感が劣
る風合いであった。
Comparative Example Triacetate yarn (Bright 1
50d / 24f) and polyester drawn yarn (Semidal 10)
0d / 48f, strength 4.9g / Y, elongation 27%), the first heater temperature was 190 ° C, the false twist spindle rotation speed switching condition was randomly changed in the range of 0.5 to 1 second. The present processed yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the above. The obtained textured yarn of the comparative example has an untwisted portion 1 (Z twisted portion).
The length of the overtwisted portion 2 (S twisted portion) was in the range of 20 to 50 cm. Further, the mixed structure portion 3 of the untwisted portion, the overtwisted portion, and the spread portion has a crimped bulky spread portion structure in which the yarn is cracked.
There was 0-60 cm. In particular, the open part is up to 100 m
m, and at this time, the proportion occupied by parts A and B was 45%. Further, the core of the residual twist portion of this processed yarn is not fused, and the twist direction reversal portion has a crimped bulky fiber opening portion structure in which a relatively long yarn crack occurs, resulting in poor yarn form stability. It was
The knitted fabric which was knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 had a feeling of spun yarn tone, but had a bulky texture and a poor texture.

【0039】[0039]

【発明の効果】以上説明したように、本発明によれば、
後工程通過性が良好であり、繊細なシャリ感、優れたド
レープ性を有し、かつソフトで嵩高な風合いを併せ持つ
紡績糸調の表面斑感を有する強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸が
提供される。
As described above, according to the present invention,
A strong twisted yarn-like composite false-twisted yarn having good passability in the subsequent process, having a delicate sharpness, excellent drapeability, and having a soft and bulky texture and a surface unevenness of a spun yarn tone is provided. It

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図1】本発明のアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸の
一例を示す糸側面模式図である。
FIG. 1 is a yarn side view diagram showing an example of an acetate strong twist yarn composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.

【図2】本発明のアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸を
製造する装置の一例を示す側面模式図である。
FIG. 2 is a schematic side view showing an example of an apparatus for producing the acetate false twist composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

1 未解撚部 2 過解撚部 3 1〜50mmの長さの未解撚部、過解撚部、開繊
部の混在構造部 4 1〜50mmの長さの未解撚部 5 1〜50mmの長さの過解撚部 6 1〜50mmの長さの開繊部 21 マグネットテンサー 22、23 ガイド 24 第1ヒーター 25 仮撚スピンドル 26 第1デリベリローラー 27 第2ヒーター 28 第2デリベリローラー 29 捲取り機
1 Untwisted Part 2 Overtwisted Part 3 Unstructured Part with 1-50 mm Length, Overtwisted Part, Mixed Structure Part 4 1-50 mm Untwisted Part 5 1 Over-twisted portion 6 with a length of 50 mm Opening portion 21 with a length of 1 to 50 mm Magnet tensor 22, 23 Guide 24 First heater 25 False twist spindle 26 First delivery roller 27 Second heater 28 Second delivery Roller 29 Winder

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (72)発明者 山口 展弘 愛知県名古屋市東区砂田橋四丁目1番60 号 三菱レイヨン株式会社商品開発研究 所内 (72)発明者 福沢 隆 大阪府大阪市北区天満橋一丁目8番30号 三菱レイヨン株式会社大阪支店内 (56)参考文献 特開 平8−284033(JP,A) 特開 昭53−98450(JP,A) 特開 昭58−191235(JP,A) 特開 昭57−191335(JP,A) 特開 昭58−81639(JP,A) 特開 平9−78380(JP,A) 実開 昭58−121383(JP,U) (58)調査した分野(Int.Cl.7,DB名) D02G 1/00 - 3/48 D02J 1/00 - 1/22 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Nobuhiro Yamaguchi, Inventor Nobuhiro Yamaguchi 4-chome 1-chome, Sunadabashi, Higashi-ku, Nagoya, Aichi Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Product Development Research Center (72) Takashi Fukuzawa, Tenmabashi, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 8-30, Osaka Branch of Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. (56) Reference JP-A-8-284033 (JP, A) JP-A-53-98450 (JP, A) JP-A-58-191235 (JP, A) Kai 57-191335 (JP, A) JP 58-81639 (JP, A) JP 9-78380 (JP, A) Actual 58-121383 (JP, U) (58) Fields investigated (58) Int.Cl. 7 , DB name) D02G 1/00-3/48 D02J 1/00-1/22

Claims (6)

(57)【特許請求の範囲】(57) [Claims] 【請求項1】 アセテート糸を含むマルチフィラメント
糸条にSZ交互撚りが加撚されたアセテート複合仮撚加
工糸において、前記マルチフィラメント糸条が、太細ポ
リエステル糸、易染性ポリエステル糸、常圧可染ポリエ
ステル糸、高配向ポリエステル未延伸糸から選ばれるい
ずれか一種以上を含み、40〜150cmの未解撚部1
と40〜150cmの過解撚部2とが繊維長手方向に沿
って交互に形成され、未解撚部1および過解撚部2の長
さの和が、糸条全体の長さに対して70%〜95%であ
り、未解撚部1及び/又は過解撚部2の芯部の少なくと
も一部に融着部が形成され、未解撚部1と過解撚部2と
の間に、1〜50mmの未解撚部4および1〜50mm
の過解撚部5とを含む5〜30cmの混在構造部3を有
することを特徴とするアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工
糸。
1. An acetate composite false twisted yarn in which an SZ alternating twist is twisted on a multifilament yarn including an acetate yarn, wherein the multifilament yarn is thick and thin.
Reester yarn, easily dyeable polyester yarn, atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester
Choose from steal yarn and highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn
40 to 150 cm untwisted part 1 including gaps or more
And untwisted portions 2 of 40 to 150 cm are formed alternately along the longitudinal direction of the fiber, and the lengths of the untwisted portion 1 and the overtwisted portion 2 are long.
The sum of sasage is 70% to 95% with respect to the length of the entire yarn.
A fusion-bonded portion is formed on at least a part of the core of the untwisted portion 1 and / or the overtwisted portion 2, and between the untwisted portion 1 and the overtwisted portion 2 is 1 to 50 mm. Untwisted part 4 and 1 to 50 mm
And a mixed structure portion 3 having a size of 5 to 30 cm including the overtwisted portion 5 of 1.
【請求項2】 前記マルチフィラメント糸条が太細ポリ
エステル糸を含み、該太細ポリエステル糸が、30cm
以下の糸斑波長の頻度が45%以上であるシック部が残
留した太細ポリエステル糸である請求項1記載のアセテ
ート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸。
2. The multifilament yarn includes a thick and thin polyester yarn, and the thick and thin polyester yarn has a thickness of 30 cm.
The acetate false twist composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, which is a thick and thin polyester yarn in which a chic portion having a frequency of the following uneven yarn wavelength of 45% or more remains.
【請求項3】 前記太細ポリエステル糸が、複屈折率が
0.015〜0.040であるポリエステル未延伸糸を
下記(1)〜(5)を満たす条件で2段延伸して得られ
た太細ポリエステル糸である請求項2記載のアセテート
強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸。 (1)MDR×0.45≦TDR≦MDR×0.55 (2)TDR=DR1×DR2 (3)MDR×0.40≦DR1≦MDR×0.50 (4)HRT≦TC (5)Tg≦HPT≦TC (但し、式中TDRは総延伸倍率、DR1は第1段延伸
倍率、DR2は第2段延伸倍率、MDRは前記ポリエス
テル未延伸糸の最大延伸倍率、HRTは第1段延伸時の
温度(℃)、HPTは第2段延伸時の温度(℃)、TC
は前記ポリエステル未延伸糸の結晶化温度(℃)、Tg
は前記ポリエステル未延伸糸のガラス転移温度(℃)で
ある。)
3. The thick and thin polyester yarn is obtained by drawing a polyester undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 0.015 to 0.040 in two stages under the following conditions (1) to (5). The acetate false twist yarn-like composite false twisted yarn according to claim 2, which is a thick and thin polyester yarn. (1) MDR × 0.45 ≦ TDR ≦ MDR × 0.55 (2) TDR = DR1 × DR2 (3) MDR × 0.40 ≦ DR1 ≦ MDR × 0.50 (4) HRT ≦ TC (5) Tg ≤ HPT ≤ TC (where TDR is the total draw ratio, DR1 is the first draw ratio, DR2 is the second draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the polyester undrawn yarn, and HRT is the first draw ratio. Temperature (° C), HPT is the temperature (° C) during the second drawing, TC
Is the crystallization temperature (° C) of the polyester undrawn yarn, Tg
Is the glass transition temperature (° C.) of the polyester undrawn yarn. )
【請求項4】 前記マルチフィラメント糸条が常圧可染
ポリエステル糸を含み、該常圧可染ポリエステル糸が、
アジピン酸成分を10〜20モル%共重合させたポリエ
ステル共重合体からなり、下記(1)〜(3)を満たす
常圧可染ポリエステル糸である請求項1記載のアセテー
ト強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸。 (1)動的粘弾性測定によるtanδピーク温度が90
℃以上120℃以下である。 (2)分散染料での染色における染着飽和温度が80℃
以上110℃以下である。 (3)DS×DE1/2≧22(但し、DSは繊維強
度、DEは破断伸度を示す)
4. The multifilament yarn includes a normal pressure dyeable polyester yarn, and the normal pressure dyeable polyester yarn comprises:
2. The acetate twist-like composite false twist according to claim 1, which is a polyester yarn made of a polyester copolymer obtained by copolymerizing an adipic acid component in an amount of 10 to 20 mol% and satisfying the following (1) to (3). Processed yarn. (1) The tan δ peak temperature measured by dynamic viscoelasticity is 90.
The temperature is not less than ℃ and not more than 120 ℃. (2) The dyeing saturation temperature in dyeing with a disperse dye is 80 ° C.
It is above 110 ° C. (3) DS × DE 1/2 ≧ 22 (however, DS indicates fiber strength and DE indicates breaking elongation)
【請求項5】 前記マルチフィラメント糸条が易染性ポ
リエステル糸を含み、該易染性ポリエステル糸が、下記
(1)及び(2)を満たす易染性ポリエステル糸である
請求項1記載のアセテート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸。 (1)伸度22〜55%、複屈折率0.08〜0.12
である。 (2)動的粘弾性測定によるtanδピーク温度が10
5℃以上120℃以下で、tanδピーク値が0.13
0以上0.200以下である。
5. The multifilament yarn contains an easily dyeable polyester yarn, and the easily dyeable polyester yarn is an easily dyeable polyester yarn satisfying the following (1) and (2).
The acetate strong twist yarn-like composite false twist textured yarn according to claim 1 . (1) Elongation 22 to 55%, birefringence 0.08 to 0.12.
Is. (2) The tan δ peak temperature measured by dynamic viscoelasticity is 10
The tan δ peak value is 0.13 at 5 ° C to 120 ° C.
It is 0 or more and 0.200 or less.
【請求項6】 請求項1乃至いずれかに記載のアセテ
ート強撚糸調複合仮撚加工糸を用いた織編物。
6. The method of claim 1 to 5 acetate strong twisted yarn regulating composite false twisted yarn woven or knitted fabric using of any one.
JP12966697A 1997-05-20 1997-05-20 Acetate strong twisted composite false twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same Expired - Lifetime JP3476335B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP12966697A JP3476335B2 (en) 1997-05-20 1997-05-20 Acetate strong twisted composite false twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP12966697A JP3476335B2 (en) 1997-05-20 1997-05-20 Acetate strong twisted composite false twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH10325026A JPH10325026A (en) 1998-12-08
JP3476335B2 true JP3476335B2 (en) 2003-12-10

Family

ID=15015157

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
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Country Link
JP (1) JP3476335B2 (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP6015197B2 (en) * 2012-07-26 2016-10-26 三菱レイヨン株式会社 Composite false twisted yarn, woven fabric thereof, and method for producing composite false twisted yarn

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH10325026A (en) 1998-12-08

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