JP2009174080A - Elastic woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven or knitted fabric keeping the merits of cellulosic staple yarn, and having refreshing cool texture, comfortableness in wearing, luxury luster, and elasticity. <P>SOLUTION: The woven or knitted fabric is composed of the cellulosic staple yarn such as cotton yarn, a cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture regain of ≤8% such as cellulose acetate yarn, and an elastic yarn in the form of a compound yarn or a combination of these yarns. Further, the compound yarn of the woven or knitted fabric is composed of the fine-spun twisted union yarn or the plied yarn of the constituent yarns. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a stretchy woven or knitted fabric with a refreshing feel, a comfortable wearing feeling, and a high-quality glossy texture.

  100% cotton woven or knitted fabric is excellent in soft touch and water absorption, and is widely used in the clothing field, but generally has high water retention, takes time to dry after water absorption, and feels sticky when worn. . In addition, cotton knitted fabrics are prone to wrinkles when worn, and there is a problem that it is difficult to obtain high-quality luster, stretchability, firmness and waist.

  In order to solve the problem in the cotton knitted fabric, a method of obtaining a woven knitted fabric by combining polyester filament yarn and further elastic yarn with cotton has been adopted. The resulting woven fabric has a polyester filament yarn. There are problems such as texture hardness due to high Young's modulus, metallic luster due to high refractive index, and poor color development, which is not satisfactory in terms of luxury.

  It has also been proposed to use a self-crimped polyester composite fiber filament yarn and a cellulose staple yarn (Patent Document 1). However, with this twisted yarn, a refreshing texture with a refreshing feeling and a high-class feel. It has been difficult to obtain glossy gloss, deep color development and the like.

JP-A-8-260275

  An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric that takes advantage of the excellent points of cellulosic staple yarns, and further imparts a refreshing texture with a refreshing feeling, a comfortable wearing feeling, a high-quality gloss, and stretchability. .

  The gist of the present invention resides in a stretchable woven or knitted fabric comprising a cellulose staple yarn, a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less, and an elastic yarn.

  According to the present invention, taking advantage of the soft touch and water absorption of cellulosic staple yarns, it provides a refreshing texture with a refreshing feeling, comfortable wearing feeling, high-grade gloss, and elasticity. Furthermore, a woven or knitted fabric with improved anti-mold properties, water-absorbing quick-drying properties, stickiness, etc. can be obtained.

  The cellulose-based staple yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a staple yarn of natural fibers such as cotton and linen, regenerated fibers such as viscose rayon and cupra made of cellulose, and semi-synthetic fibers such as lyocell. In particular, a cotton yarn is preferable as the cellulose-based staple yarn. The types of these natural fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, and methods for producing regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, cross-sectional shape of staples (single yarn), surface shape, length, single yarn fineness, spinning conditions, yarn fineness (yarn count) ) Etc. are not particularly limited. Further, the official moisture content of the fibers in the cellulosic staple yarn may be arbitrary.

  Examples of the cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less used for the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention include a cellulose diacetate filament yarn having an official moisture content of 6.5%, and a cellulose triacetate filament yarn having an official moisture content of 3.5%. The cellulose acetate filament yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of as small as 2 to 3%, and is preferable. Further, the cross-sectional shape, surface shape, single yarn fineness, yarn fineness, etc. of the filament (single yarn) in the cellulose filament yarn are not particularly limited. Cellulosic filament yarns with an official moisture content of more than 8% have increased water swellability, and problems such as washing shrinkage, form stability, wet fastness, and high water retention and slow drying speed.

  The elastic yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a yarn that exhibits elasticity in form or physical properties and can impart stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric, and has an elongation rate (JIS L1096 (Method A)) of 15%. These are the above-mentioned yarns, for example, latent crimped composite filament yarns that are made by combining two types of polyethylene terephthalate with different heat shrinkability into a side-by-side type, and then spinning into a coil by heating. An actual crimped filament yarn that is coiled by unwinding, a latent crimped composite filament yarn or a false twisted yarn obtained by laminating and spinning polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate on at least one side, polyurethane Examples thereof include fiber yarns and polyurethane elastic fiber yarns.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a collective term for woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. There are no particular restrictions on the texture, density, basis weight, etc. of the woven fabric or knitted fabric, and any weaving or knitting conditions can be used. There are no particular restrictions on the loom and the knitting machine used for knitting, and these are arbitrarily adopted according to the texture, design, functional performance, and the like to be obtained.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention comprises a cellulosic staple yarn and a cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less and an elastic yarn. As long as the effects of the filament yarn and the elastic yarn are not impaired, filament yarns or staple yarns of other fibers may be mixed.

  The cellulosic staple yarn in the knitted or knitted fabric, the cellulosic filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less, and the elastic yarn may be used as two or more composite yarns thereof, or may be used as respective single yarns. Further, at the time of weaving or knitting, it may be woven or knitted with composite yarns, may be arranged as individual yarns, or a combination of composite yarns and single yarns may be arranged. It may be. Examples of composite yarns include finely spun and twisted yarns of cellulose staple yarns and cellulose filament yarns having an official moisture content of 8% or less, cellulose filament yarns and elastic yarns having an official moisture content of 8% or less, And a twisted spun yarn of cellulose-based staple yarn and an elastic yarn, or a twisted yarn.

  These composite yarns are not particularly limited and their combination, ratio, etc. are selected in consideration of the texture, design, performance, etc. of the intended woven or knitted fabric. From the viewpoint of effectively imparting stretchability, it is preferable that the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes a finely knitted or twisted yarn of cellulose-based staple yarn and elastic yarn as a composite yarn.

  In the fine spinning and twisting yarn, it is desirable that the elastic yarn is located alone at the center of the twisting yarn and covered with the cellulose-based staple, but it may be located in a twisted manner with the cellulose-based staple. In addition, in the twisted yarn, the twist direction is preferably the same as the twist direction of the cellulosic staple yarn from the viewpoint of improving the tightness of the yarn and obtaining a refreshing feeling.

  The method of twisting is not particularly limited, and the cellulose-based staple yarn and the elastic yarn may be twisted or twisted in a state where the elastic yarn is drafted, or one or both yarns may be twisted. In addition, the upper twist may be twisted. The number of twists and the twist direction of the lower twist may be arbitrary. The number of twists of the twisted yarn is preferably 4000 to 20000, more preferably 5000 in terms of the twist coefficient (twist coefficient = twist number × √dtex) from the viewpoint of obtaining a refreshing feeling and the productivity such as yarn breakage in the twisting process. ˜18000.

  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to mainly arrange cellulose-based staple yarns on one side of the woven or knitted fabric, and mainly arrange cellulose-based filament yarns having an official moisture content of 8% or less mainly on the other side. Soft texture, hygroscopicity, water absorption, etc. are imparted on the surface on which the cellulose-based staple yarn is arranged, and high-grade luster, refreshing texture, clear color developability, etc. on the surface on which the cellulose-based filament yarn is arranged Is further emphasized, and the presence of elastic yarns gives the woven or knitted fabric an appropriate stretchability and imparts wearing comfort.

  In order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric in which a cellulose staple yarn is arranged on one side and a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less is arranged on the other side, for example, a cellulose filament yarn is mainly used as a warp. A method of weaving a cellulose staple yarn and an elastic yarn such as a polyester-type latent crimped composite filament yarn as a weft, and weaving with a satin structure; a cellulose filament yarn and a cellulose staple yarn as warp A method of arranging this alternately and arranging an elastic yarn such as a polyester-based latent crimped composite filament yarn on the weft and weaving with a warp double structure or a flat double structure is used. There is no particular limitation on the method.

  In order to obtain such a woven or knitted fabric with a knitted fabric, for example, a method of knitting with a satin structure or a half structure using two or three warp knitting, a method of knitting with a tense structure or a punch Roman structure with circular knitting, etc. Although used, there are no particular limitations on the knitting method of warp knitting or circular knitting, the structure, the method of arranging yarns, and the like.

  In the present invention, in particular, when a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less, preferably a cellulose acetate filament yarn, is present on one side of the woven or knitted fabric, the disperse dye provides sharpness, color development, and high quality. A gloss with a feeling is more exhibited.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. The texture, stickiness, waxy feeling, drape, etc. were evaluated by handling, and the color development, gloss, etc. were evaluated visually. In addition, dyeing with a disperse dye and a direct dye is performed by dyeing with a disperse dye (Dianstar Japan, Dianix Black TA-N200) 12% by mass (vs. fiber) at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes, followed by direct dye (Nippon Kayaku Kogyo Co., Ltd.). Kayalon Black C-HK), 5% by mass (vs. fiber), dyed at 90 ° C. for 40 minutes for 2 bath dyeing.

Example 1
Cellulose triacetate filament yarn with a single yarn chrysanthemum cross-section (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Dull 135 dtex / 55 filament (f), official moisture content 3.5%) and single yarn circular cross-section polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., semi-dull) 33 dtex / 24f, boiling water shrinkage of 17%) was twisted 800 times / m in the S direction to obtain a twisted yarn. This twisted yarn is used as the warp, and as the weft, two types of polytrimethylene terephthalate side-by-side composite filament yarns (Solotex, Semi-Dal 167 dtex / 72f), which have different intrinsic viscosities, are used. A twill woven fabric rising 2/1 rightward was woven. The resulting woven fabric machine was refined by a conventional method, and finished with black dyeing with a disperse dye and a direct dye to obtain a twill woven fabric having a finishing density of 165 warps / 吋 and 80 wefts / 吋. The twill fabric obtained had a soft texture with a refreshing feeling, moderate stretchability, tension waist, resilience, and swelling, and was soft and comfortable to the touch derived from natural fiber cotton. The obtained twill fabric had a deep black color and an elegant luster.

(Example 2)
Cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a single yarn chrysanthemum cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20f, official moisture content 3.5%) was twisted 350 times / m in the S direction to give a twisted yarn. Using this twisted yarn as the warp, weft yarn is HTC550 (manufactured by Toray International Co., Ltd., the core yarn is polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate side-by-side type composite filament yarn (Operontex, T400, semi-dal 56 dtex / 24f), sheath yarn A plain woven fabric was woven using a fine-spun spun yarn having a core-sheath structure with a cotton blending ratio of 53% (50 count) made of cotton yarn. The raw fabric of the obtained woven fabric was refined by a conventional method, and finished with black dyeing with a disperse dye and a direct dye. The obtained plain woven fabric had a soft texture with a refreshing feeling, moderate stretchability, tension waist, resilience and swelling, and was comfortable with a soft touch derived from cotton. Further, the obtained plain woven fabric had a deep black color and an elegant luster.

(Example 3)
The same twisted yarn used in Example 2 was used as the warp, and as the weft, two types of polyethylene terephthalate side-by-side composite filament yarns (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., semi-dal 56 dtex / 12f) having different intrinsic viscosities and 80 yarns of cotton yarn were used. Using a twisted yarn obtained by twisting 1000 times / m in the drawing Z direction, a plain fabric in which one warp and one weft were alternately woven. The resulting woven fabric machine was refined by a conventional method, and finished in black with disperse dyes and direct dyes to obtain a plain woven fabric having a finishing density of 135 warps / 経 and 92 wefts / 吋. The obtained plain woven fabric had moderate stretchability, tightness, resilience, swelling and excellent refreshing feeling, and was soft and comfortable to the touch derived from cotton. Further, the obtained plain woven fabric had a deep black color and an elegant luster.

Example 4
A cellulose triacetate filament yarn having a single yarn chrysanthemum cross section (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 110 dtex / 64f, official moisture content 3.5%) was twisted 1000 times / m in the S direction to obtain a twisted yarn. Using this twisted yarn as a warp, as a weft, the core yarn is a polyurethane fiber yarn 44 dtex, the sheath yarn is a core-sheath spun yarn (manufactured by Fujibow Co., No. 40), and a side-by-side type composite filament yarn of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate. No. 1 false twisted yarn (manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., 84 dtex / 24f) and twisted 1400 times / m in the S direction were alternately arranged to weave a twill fabric. The resulting woven fabric machine was refined by a conventional method and finished with black dyeing with a disperse dye and a direct dye to obtain a twill woven having a finishing density of 252 warps / 吋 and 111 wefts / 吋. The twill fabric obtained had a soft texture, moderate stretchability and a feeling of swelling, was excellent in a refreshing feeling, and was soft and comfortable to the touch derived from cotton. Moreover, the twill fabric obtained had a deep black color and an elegant luster.

(Comparative Example 1)
Polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 44 dtex / 36f) having a triangular cross section of single yarn was twisted 300 times / m in the Z direction to obtain a twisted yarn. Using this twisted yarn as a warp, two types of polyethylene terephthalate side-by-side composite filament yarns (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., semi-dal 110 dtex / 24f) having different intrinsic viscosities were twisted 1500 times / m in the S direction. Twisted yarn and 60 cotton yarns were alternately arranged to weave a 3/1 right twill fabric. The resulting woven fabric machine was refined by a conventional method, and finished in black with disperse dyes and direct dyes to obtain a twill fabric with a finishing density of 250 warps / 吋 and 102 wefts / 吋. The resulting twill fabric has stretch properties but has a refreshing feeling without a refreshing feeling, has a strong gloss and lacks a high-class feeling, and lacks black color development, drape, and freshness.

(Comparative Example 2)
In Comparative Example 1, two types of polyethylene terephthalate side-by-side composite filament yarns (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., semidull 56 dtex / 12f) having different intrinsic viscosities and cotton yarn No. 80 are aligned as weft yarns, and 1000 times / m in the Z direction. A twill woven fabric was obtained by weaving and dyeing finishing in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1, except that one twisted yarn and 60 cotton yarns were alternately arranged. The resulting twill fabric has stretch properties but has a refreshing feeling without a refreshing feeling, has a strong gloss and lacks a high-class feeling, and lacks black color development, drape, and freshness.

(Example 5)
Cellulose triacetate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Bright 84 dtex / 20f, official moisture content 3.5%) and cotton yarn 100th count are aligned with a single yarn chrysanthemum cross-section 500 times in the Z direction in the same direction as the twist of the cotton yarn / The twisted yarn obtained by twisting m is placed on the front of the warp knitting, and the polyurethane fiber yarn (Asahi Kasei Fibers, 77 dtex) is drafted 2.5 times into a polyethylene terephthalate filament false twisted yarn (Toray) , 84 dtex), a denby warp knitted fabric was knitted with a tricot (Karl Mayer, 28 gauge) in which a yarn (FTY yarn) covering the warp knitting was arranged. The warp knitted fabric machine obtained was refined by a conventional method, and finished with black with a disperse dye and a direct dye to obtain a warp knitted fabric of finishing well 40 and course 74. The obtained warp knitted fabric had a soft texture with a refreshing feeling, had stretchability, tension waist, rebound feeling, and swelling feeling, and had a soft touch comfortable from cotton. The obtained knitted fabric had a deep black color and an elegant luster.

(Example 6)
The twisted yarn of cellulose triacetate filament yarn and cotton yarn in Example 5 was placed on the back of the warp knitting, and a side-by-side type composite filament yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate (manufactured by Operontex, T400, semidull 56 dtex / 24f) A half-structure warp knitted fabric was knitted with a tricot (28 gauge, manufactured by KARL MAYER) arranged at the front of the warp knitting. The resulting warp knitting machine was refined by a conventional method, and finished with black dyeing with a disperse dye and a direct dye to obtain a warp knitted fabric of finishing well 42 and course 57. The obtained warp knitted fabric had a soft texture with a refreshing feeling, had stretchability, tension waist, rebound feeling, and swelling feeling, and had a soft touch comfortable derived from cotton. The obtained warp knitted fabric had a deep black color and an elegant luster.

(Example 7)
Cellulose triacetate filament yarn (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., Bright 84 dtex / 20f, official moisture content 3.5%) with a single yarn chrysanthemum cross section and cotton yarn No. 80 are added 1200 times / m in the Z direction in the same direction as the twist of the cotton yarn. Twisted twisted yarn is placed on the ribbed surface of a circular knitted fabric, polyurethane fiber yarn (Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., 44 dtex) is drafted 2.5 times into polyethylene terephthalate filament false twisted yarn (Toray Industries, Ltd., FTY yarn covering 56 dtex) was placed on the top surface of the circular knitting, and a punch roman structure circular knitted fabric was knitted with a circular knitting machine (28 gauge, 30 製 manufactured by Fukuhara). The resulting circular knitting machine was refined by a conventional method, and finished with black with a disperse dye and a direct dye to obtain a circular knitted fabric with a finishing well 50 and course 68. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a soft texture with a refreshing feeling, had stretchability, tension waist, rebound feeling and swelling feeling, and had a soft touch comfortable derived from cotton. Further, the obtained circular knitted fabric had a deep black color and an elegant gloss.

(Comparative Example 3)
In Example 5, a single twist triangular cross section polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (Bright 84dtex / 36f, manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) and cotton yarn 100th count in the same direction as the twist of the cotton yarn in Example 5 were used. A warp knitted fabric was obtained by knitting and dyeing finishing in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the twisted yarn obtained by twisting 500 times / m in the direction was used. The obtained warp knitted fabric has stretch properties but has a refreshing feeling without a refreshing feeling, has a strong gloss and lacks a high-class feeling, and lacks black color development, drape, and freshness.

(Comparative Example 4)
In Example 7, the twisted yarn arranged on the rib surface of the circular knitting was obtained by using a polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (Bright 84 dtex / 36f manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) having a single yarn triangular cross section and cotton yarn 80 count in the same direction as the twist of the cotton yarn. A pontiroma texture circular knitted fabric was knitted and dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 7 except that the twisted yarn obtained by twisting 1200 times / m in the Z direction was used. Although the obtained circular knitted fabric had stretch properties, it had a refreshing feeling without a refreshing feeling, had a strong gloss and lacked a high-class feeling, and lacked black color development and freshness.

  The stretch woven or knitted fabric of the present invention takes advantage of the soft touch and water absorbency of cellulosic staple yarn, and has a refreshing texture with a refreshing feeling, comfortable wearing feeling, and a glossy feeling of luxury. Since it is stretchable and has improved anti-mold properties, water-absorbing quick-drying properties, stickiness, etc., it is particularly suitable as a woven or knitted fabric for clothing.

Claims (3)

  A stretchable woven or knitted fabric comprising a cellulose-based staple yarn, a cellulose-based filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less, and an elastic yarn.   The stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a cellulose filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less is mainly disposed on one surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and a cellulose staple yarn is mainly disposed on the other surface.   The stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cellulose-based staple yarn is a cotton yarn, and the cellulose-based filament yarn having an official moisture content of 8% or less is a cellulose acetate filament yarn.