CN110644117A - Double-layer double-elastic corduroy and process flow thereof - Google Patents
Double-layer double-elastic corduroy and process flow thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN110644117A CN110644117A CN201910794723.6A CN201910794723A CN110644117A CN 110644117 A CN110644117 A CN 110644117A CN 201910794723 A CN201910794723 A CN 201910794723A CN 110644117 A CN110644117 A CN 110644117A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
- D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
- D03D27/04—Weft pile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D27/00—Woven pile fabrics
- D03D27/02—Woven pile fabrics wherein the pile is formed by warp or weft
- D03D27/10—Fabrics woven face-to-face, e.g. double velvet
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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Abstract
The invention discloses a double-layer double-elastic corduroy and a process flow thereof, wherein the double-layer double-elastic corduroy comprises a minimum organization structure, wherein the minimum organization structure comprises 8 warps and 8 wefts; the fifth to eighth warp threads on the second weft thread are subjected to weft floating and long forming to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the third weft thread are subjected to weft position and weft float to form a cut pile area; the fifth to eighth warp threads on the sixth weft thread are subjected to weft floating and long forming to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the seventh weft thread are subjected to weft position and weft float to form a cut pile area; the pile cutting area cuts off the middle of the weft and forms piles after brushing; the first weft and the fifth weft form a layer of bottom weft, the second weft and the third weft, the sixth weft and the seventh weft, 4 wefts form a layer of pile weft, namely cut pile weft, and the fourth weft and the eighth weft form a layer of bottom weft. The invention has a double-layer structure, so that the corduroy fabric has a fine suede layer and can have the thick warm-keeping comfort of a velvet fabric, the warp direction and the weft direction have excellent elasticity and resilience, and the comfortable wearability of the fabric is improved to the maximum extent.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of corduroy, in particular to double-layer double-elastic corduroy and a process flow thereof.
Background
The textile product is made from spinning-weaving-comprising: yarns, threads, natural yarns, rayon, chemical fiber filaments and staple fibers, stretch yarns, metal wires and the like. And secondly, knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics, natural fur fabrics, plastic fabrics, industrial fabrics (textiles used in the industrial field, such as tarpaulin, gun coat, filter cloth, screen meshes, roadbed cloth and the like) agricultural and medical textiles and the like. Third, clothing accessories, household textiles, decorative cloth articles, gloves, hats, socks, cases, blankets and the like. Fourthly, other textiles: cloth toys, lamp decorations, artware, plastic products; hand crocheting, silk tapestry, waist belt, rope, belt, sewing thread embroidery thread and the like. 9000 meters of fiber in grams by weight at a official moisture regain. The English denier (D) is short, for example, the weight of a 9000 m fiber is 1 gram, and when the density of the fiber is constant, the larger the denier (D), the thicker the fiber. It is commonly used to represent chemical fiber filament, real silk, etc.
At present, chinese patent with publication number CN208497826U discloses a textile fabric, which comprises a textile fabric body, a breathable layer, a heat dissipation layer, an anti-ultraviolet layer, a weaving layer and an antibacterial layer, wherein the textile fabric body is a wave-shaped member, the uppermost layer of the textile fabric body is the anti-ultraviolet layer, the bottommost layer of the textile fabric body is the weaving layer, and the anti-ultraviolet layer and the weaving layer are sequentially the breathable layer, the heat dissipation layer and the antibacterial layer from top to bottom. Although the textile fabric is simple in structure, the surface layer is the ultraviolet-proof layer, the human body is protected from ultraviolet irradiation in sunlight, and the air permeability of the textile fabric is improved, in the using process, due to the three-layer structure of the air permeable layer, the heat dissipation layer and the antibacterial layer, the elasticity of the textile fabric is reduced due to the characteristics of the textile fabric.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a corduroy which has a double-layer structure and has elasticity in both the warp direction and the weft direction.
The technical purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the weaving method comprises the following steps of (1) including a minimum weave structure, wherein the minimum weave structure comprises 8 warps and 8 wefts, and the 8 warps and the 8 wefts are marked as first to eighth warps and first to eighth wefts respectively;
the first warp covers the first weft, the first warp covers the second weft, the first warp is under the third weft, the first warp covers the fourth weft, the first warp is under the fifth weft, the first warp covers the sixth weft, the first warp is under the seventh weft, and the first warp is under the eighth weft;
the second warp is arranged below the first weft, the second warp is arranged below the second weft, the second warp is arranged below the third weft, the second warp covers the fourth weft, the second warp covers the fifth weft, the second warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the second warp is arranged below the seventh weft, and the second warp covers the eighth weft;
the third warp threads cover the first weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the second weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the third weft threads, the third warp threads cover the fourth weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the fifth weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the sixth weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the seventh weft threads, and the third warp threads cover the eighth weft threads;
the fourth warp is arranged below the first weft, the fourth warp covers the second weft, the fourth warp is arranged below the third weft, the fourth warp covers the fourth weft, the fourth warp covers the fifth weft, the fourth warp covers the sixth weft, the fourth warp covers the seventh weft, and the fourth warp covers the eighth weft;
the fifth warp covers the first weft, the fifth warp is below the second weft, the fifth warp covers the third weft, the fifth warp is below the fourth weft, the fifth warp is below the fifth weft, the fifth warp is below the sixth weft, the fifth warp covers the seventh weft, and the fifth warp covers the eighth weft;
the sixth warp is arranged below the first weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the second weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the third weft, the sixth warp covers the fourth weft, the sixth warp covers the fifth weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the seventh weft, and the sixth warp covers the eighth weft;
the seventh warp covers the first weft, the seventh warp is below the second weft, the seventh warp is below the third weft, the seventh warp covers the fourth weft, the seventh warp is below the fifth weft, the seventh warp is below the sixth weft, the seventh warp covers the seventh weft, and the seventh warp covers the eighth weft;
the eighth warp is arranged below the first weft, the eighth warp is arranged below the second weft, the eighth warp covers the third weft, the eighth warp covers the fourth weft, the eighth warp covers the fifth weft, the eighth warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the eighth warp covers the seventh weft, and the eighth warp covers the eighth weft;
the fifth to eighth warp threads on the second weft are arranged in weft floating and long mode to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the third weft thread are subjected to weft position and weft float to form a cut pile area; the fifth to eighth warp threads on the sixth weft thread are subjected to weft floating and long forming to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the seventh weft thread are in weft float long shape to form a cut pile area, and the cut pile area cuts off the warp bristles of the weft to form fluff;
the first weft and the fourth weft form a layer of bottom weft, the fifth weft and the eighth weft form a layer of bottom weft, the second weft and the third weft, the sixth weft and the seventh weft, and the four wefts form a pile weft together; a double-layer structure is formed by a layer of bottom weft, a layer of pile weft and a layer of bottom weft, wherein the layer of bottom weft contains spandex core-spun yarns.
The invention is further configured to: the first warp to the eighth warp are the cotton-covered spandex core-spun yarn of 50+20D, the first weft and the fifth weft are the cotton-covered spandex core-spun yarn of 40+40D, the second weft, the third weft and the sixth weft are 40S (50 cotton 50 modal) cotton wool yarns, and the fourth weft and the eighth weft are blended yarns of 21S, 16S cotton wool, nitrile wool, polyester cotton wool, wool cotton wool and the like.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, through the density of restriction warp direction yarn and woof, the density that reduces warp direction yarn and woof is too high and difficult the condition that possess good elasticity, also can reduce warp direction yarn and woof's density and cross lowly and appear easily because pull and the condition that corduroy loses elasticity.
The invention also aims to provide a process flow of the double-layer double-elastic corduroy.
The other purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the method comprises the following steps: and (3) a spinning link: according to the requirements of fabric, gram weight, style, elasticity and the like, feeding 2.5 times of spandex filaments with a draft multiple of 20D and 50 cotton yarns in the spinning process to form 50+20D spandex core-spun yarns as warp yarns, and feeding 3.5 times of spandex filaments with a draft multiple of 40D and 40 cotton yarns to form 40+40D spandex core-spun yarns as weft first and fifth weft yarns; namely the first layer of bottom wefts;
step two: a propeller shaft link: putting warps formed by 950 times of the minimum unit number of the first warp to the eighth warp into a sectional warping machine for finishing, performing sizing treatment in a sizing cylinder to form a beam, and carding and forming through dents;
step three: the weaving process links are as follows: sending a weaving shaft into a jet loom for weaving, wherein the warp-wise weaving density is 90, sending a first weft to an eighth weft into the jet loom for weaving, the weft-wise weaving density is 170, weaving the first weft and a fifth weft into a layer of bottom weft, weaving a second weft and a third weft into a second layer of wool weft, weaving the fifth weft and the eighth weft into a second layer of bottom weft, weaving a sixth weft and a seventh weft into a second layer of wool weft, and weaving by using yarns according to the tissue structure diagram disclosed by the invention to form double-layer warp-weft double-elastic lampwick wool base cloth;
step four: finishing the lamp core flannelette: after the woven corduroy blank cloth is subjected to cloth drying, opening, brushing and singeing, corduroy open singeing gray cloth is formed, and at the moment, the latitudinal direction of the corduroy has elasticity and the longitudinal direction has no elasticity;
step five: dyeing treatment: the corduroy open-singeing grey cloth is dyed by a special dyeing process of corduroy with different cotton elasticity, because the suede is 50 cotton and 50 Modal, the fabric is subjected to warp pre-shrinking treatment, the warp is reduced by 8-10%, the warp has certain elasticity in the warp direction, but the warp shrinkage is still 10% -12%, the normal taking requirement cannot be met, the weft elasticity is basically in place, and the shrinkage is 5-6%;
step six: after-finishing and washing: the water temperature of the water washing is 15-20 ℃, and the water washing time is 30-40 minutes; adding a softening agent into washing water, reducing weft shrinkage to 3-4%, and reducing warp shrinkage to 3-5%; after washing, the warp direction is contracted by 18-20% on the upper machine density, and the weft direction is contracted by 25-30% on the upper machine density.
By adopting the technical scheme, a certain amount of spandex core-spun yarns and yarns are twisted, and the warp yarns are the yarns with the unconventional draft multiples, so that a good natural elastic effect in the warp direction is achieved. The corduroy can be dyed into other colors by dyeing, so that different textiles can be conveniently and subsequently manufactured. Become elastic textile wire with weft yarn through the mode of preshrinking processing, then can carry out further reduction with the warp direction yarn and the weft yarn of corduroy through the washing, let the corduroy more compact, also possess bigger elasticity, promote the roughness and the compliance of product, also can promote article feel simultaneously, the longitude and latitude all has better elasticity, and the longitude and latitude shrinkage is stable.
The invention is further configured to: the one-layer ground weft and the one-layer pile weft form a first textile layer, the two-layer ground weft and the two-layer pile weft form a second textile layer, and spandex core-covering cotton elastic yarns are added in the first textile layer and the second textile layer.
By adopting the technical scheme, the invention adopts a double-layer corduroy structure with a special structure, adopts specially customized spandex core-wrapped cotton elastic yarns, adopts a proper proportion of machine warp and weft density, does not need external high-temperature modes such as shaping and the like to damage and influence the elasticity in the warp and weft directions, ensures that the elasticity in the warp and weft directions is in a natural proper taking state, and has comfortable, soft, fine and high-grade fabric.
The invention is further configured to: in the spinning process, 2.5 times of spandex filament with the draft multiple of 20D and 50 cotton yarns are fed to form 50+20D spandex core-spun yarn as warp yarn; and feeding spandex filaments with the draft ratio of 3.5 times and 40D and 40 cotton yarns to form 40+40D spandex core-spun yarns as weft first and fifth weft yarns.
By adopting the technical scheme, the natural elastic effect in the warp direction can be achieved through the spandex yarns with different draft multiples.
The invention is further configured to: the warp-wise loom density is 90 per inch, the loom width is 85 inches, the weft-wise loom density is 170 picks, the first weft and the fifth weft are woven into a layer of ground picks by using a double-layer weave structure, the second weft and the third weft are woven into pile picks, the fifth weft and the eighth weft are woven into a layer of ground picks, the sixth weft and the seventh weft are woven into the pile picks, and the weaving is carried out by using yarns according to the weave structure diagram of the invention to form the double-layer warp-weft double-elastic lampwick flannelette fabric.
By adopting the technical scheme, the good natural elastic effect in the weft direction can be formed through the superior density of the longitude and latitude
In conclusion, the beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:
1. the spandex core-spun yarns are twisted in the radial yarns and the weft yarns, so that the corduroy has the effect of elasticity in both the warp direction and the weft direction;
2. the ground weft layer, the pile weft layer, the ground weft layer and the pile weft layer form a double-layer structure, so that a fine suede effect of the fabric is formed, the thickness of the fabric is certain, and the comfort and the comfortableness of the fabric are improved;
3. the process of dyeing, preshrinking treatment, water washing and the like is adopted, so that the effect of enabling the corduroy to be reduced to have elasticity and increase the elasticity is achieved.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic structural diagram for embodying the minimum tissue structure in this embodiment.
Fig. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view for embodying the minimum tissue structure in the present embodiment.
Fig. 3 is a schematic view of a structure for embodying the sectional warper and the dent assembly in the present embodiment.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Referring to fig. 1 and 2, the double-layer double-elastic corduroy and the process flow thereof disclosed by the invention comprise a minimum organization structure, wherein the minimum organization structure comprises 8 vertical warps and 8 horizontal wefts, and the 8 warps and the 8 wefts are respectively marked as first to eighth warps and first to eighth wefts; the first warp covers the first weft, the first warp covers the second weft, the first warp is under the third weft, the first warp covers the fourth weft, the first warp is under the fifth weft, the first warp covers the sixth weft, the first warp is under the seventh weft, and the first warp is under the eighth weft; the second warp is arranged below the first weft, the second warp is arranged below the second weft, the second warp is arranged below the third weft, the second warp covers the fourth weft, the second warp covers the fifth weft, the second warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the second warp is arranged below the seventh weft, and the second warp covers the eighth weft; the third warp covers the first weft, the third warp is below the second weft, the third warp is below the third weft, the third warp covers the fourth weft, the third warp is below the fifth weft, the third warp is below the sixth weft, the third warp is below the seventh weft, and the third warp covers the eighth weft; the fourth warp is arranged below the first weft, the fourth warp covers the second weft, the fourth warp is arranged below the third weft, the fourth warp covers the fourth weft, the fourth warp covers the fifth weft, the fourth warp covers the sixth weft, the fourth warp covers the seventh weft, and the fourth warp covers the eighth weft; the fifth warp covers the first weft, the fifth warp is below the second weft, the fifth warp covers the third weft, the fifth warp is below the fourth weft, the fifth warp is below the fifth weft, the fifth warp is below the sixth weft, the fifth warp covers the seventh weft, and the fifth warp covers the eighth weft; the sixth warp is arranged below the first weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the second weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the third weft, the sixth warp covers the fourth weft, the sixth warp covers the fifth weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the seventh weft, and the sixth warp covers the eighth weft; the seventh warp covers the first weft, the seventh warp is below the second weft, the seventh warp is below the third weft, the seventh warp covers the fourth weft, the seventh warp is below the fifth weft, the seventh warp is below the sixth weft, the seventh warp covers the seventh weft, and the seventh warp covers the eighth weft; the eighth warp is below the first weft, the eighth warp is below the second weft, the eighth warp covers the third weft, the eighth warp covers the fourth weft, the eighth warp covers the fifth weft, the eighth warp is below the sixth weft, the eighth warp covers the seventh weft, and the eighth warp covers the eighth weft.
The fifth to eighth warp threads on the second weft thread are subjected to weft floating and long forming to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the third weft thread are subjected to weft position and weft float to form a cut pile area; the fifth to eighth warp threads on the sixth weft thread are subjected to weft floating and long forming to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the seventh weft thread are in weft float long shape to form a cut pile area, and the cut pile area cuts off the warp bristles of the weft to form fluff; the first weft and the fourth weft form a layer of bottom weft, the fifth weft and the eighth weft form a layer of bottom weft, the second weft and the third weft, the sixth weft and the seventh weft, and the four wefts form a pile weft together; a double-layer structure is formed by one layer of bottom weft, the pile weft and the two layers of bottom weft, and the spandex core-spun yarn is contained in the one layer of bottom weft.
In the spinning process, 2.5 times of spandex filament with the draft multiple of 20D and 50 cotton yarns are fed to form 50+20D spandex core-spun yarn as warp yarn; feeding spandex yarns with 3.5 times of draft multiples of 40D and 40 cotton yarns to form 40+40D spandex core-spun yarns as first weft yarns and fifth weft yarns, and achieving a good natural elastic effect in the warp direction through the spandex yarns with different draft multiples.
The process flow of the double-layer double-elastic corduroy comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps: and (3) a spinning link: according to the requirements of fabric, gram weight, style, elasticity and the like, feeding 2.5 times of spandex filaments with a draft multiple of 20D and 50 cotton yarns in the spinning process to form 50+20D spandex core-spun yarns as warp yarns, and feeding 3.5 times of spandex filaments with a draft multiple of 40D and 40 cotton yarns to form 40+40D spandex core-spun yarns as weft first and fifth weft yarns; i.e. the first layer of bottom picks.
Step two: a propeller shaft link: putting warps formed by 950 times of the minimum unit number of the first warp to the eighth warp into a sectional warping machine for finishing, performing sizing treatment in a sizing cylinder to form a beam, and carding and forming through dents; the warp-wise loom density is 90 per inch, the loom width is 85 inches, the weft-wise loom density is 170 picks, the first weft and the fifth weft are woven into a layer of bottom picks, the second weft and the third weft are woven into pile picks, the fifth weft and the eighth weft are woven into a layer of bottom picks, the sixth weft and the seventh weft are woven into the pile picks by using a double-layer weave structure, and the weaving is carried out by using yarns according to the weave structure diagram of the invention to form the double-layer warp-weft double-elastic lampwick flannelette fabric.
Step three: the weaving process links are as follows: the weaving beam is sent into a jet loom for weaving, the warp-wise weaving density is 90, the first weft to the eighth weft are sent into the jet loom for weaving, the weft-wise weaving density is 170, the first weft and the fifth weft are woven into a layer of bottom weft, the second weft and the third weft are woven into a pile weft, the fifth weft and the eighth weft are woven into a layer of bottom weft, the sixth weft and the seventh weft are woven into a pile weft, and the weaving is carried out by using yarns according to the organizational chart disclosed by the invention to form the double-layer warp-weft double-elastic lampwick pile fabric. The first textile layer is formed by one layer of ground weft and one layer of pile weft, the second textile layer is formed by two layers of ground weft and two layers of pile weft, and spandex core-covering cotton elastic yarns are added in the first textile layer and the second textile layer. In the spinning process, 2.5 times of spandex filament with the draft multiple of 20D and 50 cotton yarns are fed to form 50+20D spandex core-spun yarn as warp yarn; and feeding spandex filaments with the draft ratio of 3.5 times and 40D and 40 cotton yarns to form 40+40D spandex core-spun yarns as weft first and fifth weft yarns.
Step four: finishing the lamp core flannelette: after the woven corduroy blank cloth is subjected to cloth drying, opening, brushing and singeing, corduroy open singeing gray cloth is formed, and at the moment, the latitudinal direction of the corduroy has elasticity and the longitudinal direction has no elasticity;
step five: dyeing treatment: the corduroy open-singeing grey cloth is dyed by a special dyeing process of corduroy with different cotton elasticity, because the suede is 50 cotton and 50 Modal, the fabric is subjected to warp pre-shrinking treatment, the warp is reduced by 8-10%, the warp has certain elasticity in the warp direction, but the warp shrinkage is still 10% -12%, the normal taking requirement cannot be met, the weft elasticity is basically in place, and the shrinkage is 5-6%;
step six: after-finishing and washing: the water temperature of the water washing is 15-20 ℃, and the water washing time is 30-40 minutes; adding a softening agent into washing water, reducing weft shrinkage to 3-4%, and reducing warp shrinkage to 3-5%; after washing, the warp direction is contracted by 18-20% on the upper machine density, and the weft direction is contracted by 25-30% on the upper machine density. Therefore, the warp and weft directions have good elasticity, and the shrinkage rate of the warp and weft directions is stable.
The present embodiment is only for explaining the present invention, and it is not limited to the present invention, and those skilled in the art can make modifications of the present embodiment without inventive contribution as needed after reading the present specification, but all of them are protected by patent law within the scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. The utility model provides a double-deck two bullet corduroy, characterized by:
the weaving method comprises the following steps of (1) including a minimum weave structure, wherein the minimum weave structure comprises 8 warps and 8 wefts, and the 8 warps and the 8 wefts are marked as first to eighth warps and first to eighth wefts respectively;
the first warp covers the first weft, the first warp covers the second weft, the first warp is under the third weft, the first warp covers the fourth weft, the first warp is under the fifth weft, the first warp covers the sixth weft, the first warp is under the seventh weft, and the first warp is under the eighth weft;
the second warp is arranged below the first weft, the second warp is arranged below the second weft, the second warp is arranged below the third weft, the second warp covers the fourth weft, the second warp covers the fifth weft, the second warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the second warp is arranged below the seventh weft, and the second warp covers the eighth weft;
the third warp threads cover the first weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the second weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the third weft threads, the third warp threads cover the fourth weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the fifth weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the sixth weft threads, the third warp threads are arranged below the seventh weft threads, and the third warp threads cover the eighth weft threads;
the fourth warp is arranged below the first weft, the fourth warp covers the second weft, the fourth warp is arranged below the third weft, the fourth warp covers the fourth weft, the fourth warp covers the fifth weft, the fourth warp covers the sixth weft, the fourth warp covers the seventh weft, and the fourth warp covers the eighth weft;
the fifth warp covers the first weft, the fifth warp is below the second weft, the fifth warp covers the third weft, the fifth warp is below the fourth weft, the fifth warp is below the fifth weft, the fifth warp is below the sixth weft, the fifth warp covers the seventh weft, and the fifth warp covers the eighth weft;
the sixth warp is arranged below the first weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the second weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the third weft, the sixth warp covers the fourth weft, the sixth warp covers the fifth weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the sixth warp is arranged below the seventh weft, and the sixth warp covers the eighth weft;
the seventh warp covers the first weft, the seventh warp is below the second weft, the seventh warp is below the third weft, the seventh warp covers the fourth weft, the seventh warp is below the fifth weft, the seventh warp is below the sixth weft, the seventh warp covers the seventh weft, and the seventh warp covers the eighth weft;
the eighth warp is arranged below the first weft, the eighth warp is arranged below the second weft, the eighth warp covers the third weft, the eighth warp covers the fourth weft, the eighth warp covers the fifth weft, the eighth warp is arranged below the sixth weft, the eighth warp covers the seventh weft, and the eighth warp covers the eighth weft;
the fifth to eighth warp threads on the second weft are arranged in weft floating and long mode to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the third weft thread are subjected to weft position and weft float to form a cut pile area; the fifth to eighth warp threads on the sixth weft thread are subjected to weft floating and long forming to form a cut pile area; the first to fourth warp threads on the seventh weft thread are in weft float long shape to form a cut pile area, and the cut pile area cuts off the warp bristles of the weft to form fluff;
the first weft and the fourth weft form a layer of bottom weft, the fifth weft and the eighth weft form a layer of bottom weft, the second weft and the third weft, the sixth weft and the seventh weft, and the four wefts form a pile weft together; a double-layer structure is formed by a layer of bottom weft, a layer of pile weft and a layer of bottom weft, wherein the layer of bottom weft contains spandex core-spun yarns.
2. The double-layer double-elastic corduroy of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the first warp to the eighth warp are 50+20D cotton-covered spandex core-spun yarns, the first weft and the fifth weft are 40+40D cotton-covered spandex core-spun yarns, the second weft, the third weft and the sixth weft are 40S (50 cotton 50 modal) cotton-spun yarns, and the fourth weft and the eighth weft are 21S cotton-spun yarns, nitrile-spun yarns, polyester cotton, wool cotton and other blended yarns.
3. A double-layer double-elastic corduroy process flow is characterized in that:
the method comprises the following steps: and (3) a spinning link: according to the requirements of fabric, gram weight, style, elasticity and the like, feeding 2.5 times of spandex filaments with a draft multiple of 20D and 50 cotton yarns in the spinning process to form 50+20D spandex core-spun yarns as warp yarns, and feeding 3.5 times of spandex filaments with a draft multiple of 40D and 40 cotton yarns to form 40+40D spandex core-spun yarns as weft first and fifth weft yarns; namely the first layer of bottom wefts;
step two: a propeller shaft link: the warp yarns formed by 950 times of the minimum unit number of the first warp yarns to the eighth warp yarns are placed into a sectional warping machine (1) for finishing, a sizing cylinder is used for sizing to form a weaving beam, and carding forming is carried out through reed teeth;
step three: the weaving process links are as follows: sending a weaving shaft into a jet loom (2) for weaving, wherein the warp-wise weaving density is 90, sending first weft to eighth weft into the jet loom (2) for weaving, the weft-wise weaving density is 170, weaving the first weft and the fifth weft into a layer of bottom weft, weaving the second weft and the third weft into two layers of wool weft, weaving the fifth weft and the eighth weft into two layers of bottom weft, weaving the sixth weft and the seventh weft into two layers of wool weft, and weaving according to the tissue structure diagram and the yarns disclosed by the invention to form double-layer warp-weft double-elastic lampwick wool blank cloth;
step four: finishing the lamp core flannelette: after the woven corduroy blank cloth is subjected to cloth drying, opening, brushing and singeing, corduroy open singeing gray cloth is formed, and at the moment, the latitudinal direction of the corduroy has elasticity and the longitudinal direction has no elasticity;
step five: dyeing treatment: the corduroy open-singeing grey cloth is dyed by a special dyeing process of corduroy with different cotton elasticity, because the suede is 50 cotton and 50 Modal, the fabric is subjected to warp pre-shrinking treatment, the warp is reduced by 8-10%, the warp has certain elasticity in the warp direction, but the warp shrinkage is still 10% -12%, the normal taking requirement cannot be met, the weft elasticity is basically in place, and the shrinkage is 5-6%;
step six: after-finishing and washing: the water temperature of the water washing is 15-20 ℃, and the water washing time is 30-40 minutes; adding a softening agent into washing water, reducing weft shrinkage to 3-4%, and reducing warp shrinkage to 3-5%; after washing, the warp direction is contracted by 18-20% on the upper machine density, and the weft direction is contracted by 25-30% on the upper machine density.
4. The process flow of the double-layer double-elastic corduroy as claimed in claim 3, which is characterized in that: the one-layer ground weft and the one-layer pile weft form a first textile layer, the two-layer ground weft and the two-layer pile weft form a second textile layer, and spandex core-covering cotton elastic yarns are added in the first textile layer and the second textile layer.
5. The process flow of the double-layer double-elastic corduroy as claimed in claim 4, which is characterized in that: in the spinning process, 2.5 times of spandex filament with the draft multiple of 20D and 50 cotton yarns are fed to form 50+20D spandex core-spun yarn as warp yarn; and feeding spandex filaments with the draft ratio of 3.5 times and 40D and 40 cotton yarns to form 40+40D spandex core-spun yarns as weft first and fifth weft yarns.
6. The process flow of the double-layer double-elastic corduroy as claimed in claim 5, which is characterized in that: the warp-wise loom density is 90 per inch, the loom width is 85 inches, the weft-wise loom density is 170 picks, the first weft and the fifth weft are woven into a layer of ground picks by using a double-layer weave structure, the second weft and the third weft are woven into pile picks, the fifth weft and the eighth weft are woven into a layer of ground picks, the sixth weft and the seventh weft are woven into the pile picks, and the weaving is carried out by using yarns according to the weave structure diagram of the invention to form the double-layer warp-weft double-elastic lampwick flannelette fabric.
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| CN111634083A (en) * | 2020-05-17 | 2020-09-08 | 张健 | Method for manufacturing weft plain velvet parasitically compounded on four-side elastic fabric |
| CN113106687A (en) * | 2021-04-08 | 2021-07-13 | 福建七匹狼实业股份有限公司 | Processing technology of antistatic fabric with color fading resistance and temperature locking performance |
| CN113699649A (en) * | 2021-09-30 | 2021-11-26 | 亚东（常州）科技有限公司 | Weft triple-structure corduroy and production process thereof |
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Application publication date: 20200103 |