JP2021025166A - Stretchable textile and bottom garment using the same - Google Patents
Stretchable textile and bottom garment using the same Download PDFInfo
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- JP2021025166A JP2021025166A JP2019144623A JP2019144623A JP2021025166A JP 2021025166 A JP2021025166 A JP 2021025166A JP 2019144623 A JP2019144623 A JP 2019144623A JP 2019144623 A JP2019144623 A JP 2019144623A JP 2021025166 A JP2021025166 A JP 2021025166A
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- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title abstract 6
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 94
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 210000000689 upper leg Anatomy 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 26
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002250 absorbent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000003423 ankle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012805 post-processing Methods 0.000 description 1
Abstract
Description
本発明は、伸縮性織物およびそれを用いた下半身用衣類に関し、特に、編物ではなく織物であるにも関わらず大きなストレッチ性（よく伸びてよく縮む伸縮性を有することを意味）を備えた織物およびそれを用いた下半身用衣類に関する。
なお、本発明に係る下半身用衣類は、ウエスト部を備えて丈が膝下から足首までの間で主としてアウターウェア用途として着用されるパンツタイプの下半身用衣類であって、その一例としてレギンス、スパッツおよびトレンカ（トレンカはスパッツおよびレギンスに対して土踏まずの部分に引っ掛ける部分を持つことが差異）が挙げられるが、本発明に係る下半身用衣類は、このようなレギンス等に限定されるものではなく、大きな伸縮性を備えることにより履き心地を向上させることができる（男性用にも女性用にも限定されない）下半身用衣類であって、たとえば大きなストレッチ性を備えたデニムパンツであっても構わない。
The present invention relates to a stretchable woven fabric and a garment for a lower body using the same, and in particular, a woven fabric having a large stretchability (meaning that it has a stretchability that stretches well and shrinks well) even though it is a woven fabric rather than a knitted fabric. And lower body clothing using it.
The lower body garment according to the present invention is a pants-type lower body garment having a waist and being worn mainly for outerwear from below the knee to the ankle, and examples thereof include leggings, spats and the like. Trenka (the difference is that Trenka has a part that hooks on the leggings with respect to spats and leggings), but the lower body clothing according to the present invention is not limited to such leggings and is large. Lower body clothing (not limited to men's and women's) that can be stretched to improve comfort, such as denim pants with great stretchability.
衣類を構成する布地として大きく分けて織物と編物とがある。織物とは、糸を縦横に組み合わせて作った布地である。織物が、多数の経糸（縦糸と記載する場合がある）および（経糸よりも本数の少ない）緯糸（横糸と記載する場合がある）を用いて糸が交差する構造で「一段ずつ」布地を作ってゆく（織成してゆく）ことに対して、編物は、結び目（編み目）を作る要領で「一目ずつ」形を作ってゆく（編成してゆく）ことが、それぞれの特徴である。 The fabrics that make up clothing are roughly divided into woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. A woven fabric is a fabric made by combining threads vertically and horizontally. The woven fabric is made "step by step" with a structure in which the yarns intersect using a large number of warp yarns (sometimes referred to as warp yarns) and weft yarns (sometimes referred to as weft yarns) (less than warp yarns). In contrast to weaving (weaving), knitting is characterized by making (knitting) a shape "one by one" in the same way as making a knot (knot).
このように「一目ずつ」形を作って編成される編物は、ほとんど全ての織物よりも、相当に柔らかく、伸縮性が相当に大きく（よく伸びてよく縮む）、かつ、可撓性も相当に大きいことが特徴である。その一方、編物の安定性（形状の保持性）は、織物ほど良好ではない。従って、編物は、その柔らかさ、着心地の良さ、伸縮性の良さのために、肌着、スポーツウェア等に使用されることが多い。 Knitted fabrics that are knitted in this "eye-by-eye" shape are considerably softer, much more elastic (well stretch and shrink), and much more flexible than almost all woven fabrics. It is characterized by being large. On the other hand, the stability of knitting (shape retention) is not as good as that of woven fabrics. Therefore, knitted fabrics are often used for underwear, sportswear, etc. because of their softness, comfort, and elasticity.
織物は、パターンに従って、緯糸と経糸とを交差させることにより得られる。すなわち、緯糸は、１本以上の経糸の上に重なるかまたは経糸の下に重なり、経糸に対応する上部と下部とを形成する。織物は、表面（前面）および裏面（後面）を有し、緯糸は、織物の表面で１本以上の経糸の上に重なり、かつ、織物の裏面で、１本以上の経糸の下に伸びている。一方、経糸は、織物の表面（前面）または裏面（後面）で、緯糸の上または下に重なっている。 The woven fabric is obtained by crossing the weft and warp according to the pattern. That is, the wefts overlap one or more warp threads or underneath the warp threads to form upper and lower parts corresponding to the warp threads. The woven fabric has a front surface (front surface) and a back surface (rear surface), and the weft threads are overlapped on one or more warp threads on the front surface of the woven fabric and extend under one or more warp threads on the back surface of the woven fabric. There is. On the other hand, the warp threads are overlapped above or below the weft threads on the front surface (front surface) or the back surface (rear surface) of the woven fabric.
このような織物において、織物を構成する経糸と緯糸との交錯状態を組織（織組織）という。織組織は、平織り、綾織りおよび朱子織りの３種の組織が基礎となる。あらゆる織組織はすべてこの３種の組織を変化させるか、組み合わせるかによってできるもので、この３種の組織を三原組織という。
このような三原組織のうちの１つである綾織りを用いることによりデニムと呼ばれる織物（デニム織物）が製造されている。
In such a woven fabric, the interlaced state of the warp and weft that make up the woven fabric is called a structure (woven structure). The woven structure is based on three types of weaves: plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. All woven structures can be created by changing or combining these three types of structures, and these three types of structures are called Mihara structures.
A woven fabric called denim (denim woven fabric) is manufactured by using twill weave, which is one of the three original structures.
大略的に、最も一般的なデニム織物は、３／１または２／１の織物であって、この数値は、最小の繰返し単位、または、経糸と緯糸との織り方のスキーム（経糸と緯糸との交錯状態）で、接続部がいくつあるかを示している。すなわち、比１／１は、各接続部において、経糸が、その位置を変えていること、すなわち、経糸の位置が、緯糸の上側（織物の前面）から緯糸の下側（織物の後面）に変わっていることを意味する。比２／１は、「上２つ、下１つ」を意味する。すなわち、緯糸が、２本の経糸の下に広がり、その後、下から上にその位置を変えていることを意味する。すなわち、３本目の緯糸を挿入する毎に、経糸の位置が１度変更される。同様に、３／１の構造においては、４本目の緯糸を挿入する毎に、経糸の位置が１度変更される。このように綾織り組織においては、経糸は緯糸と交錯する位置１本ずつ順次変更されて緯糸との間で浮沈を繰り返し、緯糸が経糸から浮いた点が織物の表面に斜線となって現れる。これを斜文線といいこの線が左下から右上に向かって走る面を織物の表という。 Roughly speaking, the most common denim fabrics are 3/1 or 2/1 fabrics, where this number is the smallest repeating unit or the scheme of weaving warp and weft (warp and weft). Shows how many connections there are. That is, the ratio 1/1 means that the warp threads change their positions at each connection portion, that is, the positions of the warp threads are changed from the upper side of the weft threads (front surface of the woven fabric) to the lower side of the weft threads (rear surface of the woven fabric). It means that it has changed. The ratio of 2/1 means "upper two, lower one". That is, it means that the weft spreads under the two warp threads and then changes its position from bottom to top. That is, each time the third weft is inserted, the position of the warp is changed once. Similarly, in the 3/1 structure, the position of the warp is changed once each time the fourth weft is inserted. As described above, in the twill weave structure, the warp threads are sequentially changed one by one at the positions where they intersect with the weft threads, and the warp threads are repeatedly floated and sunk with the weft threads, and the points where the weft threads float from the warp threads appear as diagonal lines on the surface of the woven fabric. This is called the diagonal line, and the surface on which this line runs from the lower left to the upper right is called the front of the fabric.
変更しない位置の数が大きい場合、より具体的に言うと、経糸の下における横部の長さが長くなればなるほど、織物は、より緩くなって柔らかくなる。この意味において、糸、その他の特徴、たとえば、残っているパラメータと同一条件下で、１／１の織物は、４／１の織物よりも堅い織物であるということになる。
このようなデニム織物において、よく知られている問題は、１００％の綿糸から得られたものは、堅くて柔軟性に欠けることである。そのため、ユーザーにはその着心地が悪いとの不満がある。この問題を解決するため、通常は、デニム織物の緯糸を、伸縮自在のものとしている。この緯糸は、特にジーンズにおいて、織物の堅さを弱め、かつ、衣料としての着心地の良さを向上させる。このような織物は、伸縮性織物と呼ばれている。
If the number of unchanged positions is large, more specifically, the longer the lateral length under the warp, the looser and softer the fabric. In this sense, a 1/1 fabric is a stiffer fabric than a 4/1 fabric under the same conditions as the yarn and other features, eg, the remaining parameters.
A well-known problem with such denim fabrics is that those obtained from 100% cotton yarn are stiff and inflexible. Therefore, users complain that it is uncomfortable to wear. In order to solve this problem, the weft of the denim fabric is usually made stretchable. This weft weakens the hardness of the woven fabric and improves the comfort as clothing, especially in jeans. Such a woven fabric is called an elastic woven fabric.
このような伸縮性織物においては、伸ばされ、かつ、伸びた部分を復元させる弾性糸が、この織物に必要な弾性を与え、伸長部を元に戻すようになっている。弾性糸は、この織物の緯糸として用いられることが多い。この弾性糸としては、弾性を備えたポリウレタン等の芯糸に非弾性繊維であるナイロン等の被覆糸で覆ったカバリング糸（ＳＣＹ：Ｓｉｎｇｌｅ Ｃｏｖｅｒｅｄ Ｙａｒｎ、シングルカバードヤーン、ＤＣＹ：Ｄｏｕｂｌｅ Ｃｏｖｅｒｅｄ Ｙａｒｎ、ダブルカバードヤーン）が採用される。 In such a stretchable woven fabric, elastic threads that are stretched and restore the stretched portion give the woven fabric the elasticity required for the woven fabric and restore the stretched portion. Elastic yarns are often used as weft yarns for this woven fabric. As this elastic yarn, a covering yarn (SCY: Single Covered Yarn, single covered yarn, DCY: Double Covered Yarn, double covered yarn) in which a core yarn such as polyurethane having elasticity is covered with a coating yarn such as nylon which is an inelastic fiber is used. Yarn) is adopted.
特開２０１５−０３０９６３号公報（特許文献１）は、これらの伸縮性織物が非弾性織物に対してあまりにも平坦に見えすぎること、すなわち、それらが二次元的な外観を呈するという問題を解決することのできる、より三次元的であって標準織物の外観により近い伸縮性織物を開示する。
この特許文献１に開示された伸縮性織物は、横糸（３）と、縦糸（２，２ＦＳ，２ＢＳ）を有する織物（１）であって、前記織物（１）は、表面（ＦＳ）と、裏面（ＢＳ）を有し、前記横糸（３）の少なくとも５０％、好ましくは、少なくとも８０％は、弾性を有し、前記横糸と縦糸は共に一定の織りパターンで織られており、これにより、前記横糸（３）は、多くの縦糸（２ＢＳ）の上と、多くの縦糸（２ＦＳ）の下に延在し、前記表面の横上部（５）及び前記裏面（ＢＳ）の横下部（４，４´）を備え、前記横糸（３）の前記横上部（５）に対応する前記縦糸（２ＢＳ）は、前記横糸（３）の前記横下部（４，４´）に対応する前記縦糸（２ＦＳ）の面よりも低い位置で、前記弾性の横糸（３）によって付勢され、かつ、前記織物（１）は、ＡＳＴＭ３１０７により測定して、少なくとも３０％の伸長部を有することを特徴とする。さらに、前記織物（１）は、ＡＳＴＭ３１０７により測定して、少なくとも４０％、より好ましくは少なくとも５０％の伸長部を有する。
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2015-030963 (Patent Document 1) solves the problem that these stretchable woven fabrics look too flat with respect to inelastic woven fabrics, that is, they exhibit a two-dimensional appearance. Discloses a stretchable woven fabric that is more three-dimensional and closer to the appearance of a standard woven fabric.
The elastic woven fabric disclosed in Patent Document 1 is a woven fabric (1) having weft threads (3) and warp threads (2,2FS, 2BS), and the woven fabric (1) has a surface (FS). It has a back surface (BS), at least 50%, preferably at least 80% of the weft (3) has elasticity, and both the weft and the warp are woven in a constant weave pattern. The weft (3) extends above many warp threads (2BS) and below many warp threads (2FS), and extends above the front surface (5) and below the back surface (BS) (4, 4). The warp yarn (2BS) comprising 4') and corresponding to the lateral upper portion (5) of the weft yarn (3) is the warp yarn (2FS) corresponding to the lateral lower portion (4, 4') of the weft yarn (3). The woven fabric (1) is urged by the elastic weft (3) at a position lower than the surface of), and the woven fabric (1) has an extension portion of at least 30% as measured by ASTM3107. Further, the woven fabric (1) has an elongated portion of at least 40%, more preferably at least 50%, as measured by ASTM3107.
しかしながら、特許文献１に開示された伸縮性織物は、ＡＳＴＭ３１０７により測定して少なくとも５０％の伸長部を有するとしても、この伸縮性では用途によっては十分でない可能性がある。
本発明は、従来技術の上述の問題点に鑑みて開発されたものであり、その目的とするところは、編物ではなく織物であるにも関わらず大きな伸縮性（よく伸びてよく縮む）を備えた伸縮性織物およびそれを用いた下半身用衣類を提供することを目的とする。
However, even if the stretchable woven fabric disclosed in Patent Document 1 has an stretched portion of at least 50% as measured by ASTM3107, this stretchability may not be sufficient depending on the application.
The present invention has been developed in view of the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and an object of the present invention is to provide large elasticity (well stretch and shrink well) even though it is a woven fabric rather than a knitted fabric. It is an object of the present invention to provide a stretchable woven fabric and clothing for the lower body using the same.
上記目的を達成するため、本発明に係る伸縮性織物は以下の技術的手段を講じている。
すなわち、本発明にある局面に係る伸縮性織物は、よく伸びてよく縮むストレッチ性に優れた伸縮性織物であって、経糸に、弾性を備えた弾性糸を採用して、緯糸に、前記経糸よりも吸水性または通気性に優れた第１の糸および第２の糸を採用して、前記第１の糸と前記第２の糸とは太さが異なり、前記経糸および前記緯糸による綾織りまたは綾織りの変形組織であることを特徴とする。
In order to achieve the above object, the stretchable woven fabric according to the present invention takes the following technical measures.
That is, the stretchable woven fabric according to the aspect according to the present invention is a stretchable woven fabric having excellent stretchability that stretches well and shrinks well, and adopts an elastic yarn having elasticity as the warp yarn, and the warp yarn is the warp yarn. By adopting the first yarn and the second yarn which are more water-absorbent or breathable than the above, the first yarn and the second yarn have different thicknesses, and the warp yarn and the weft yarn are used for twill weaving. Alternatively, it is characterized by having a deformed structure of twill weave.
好ましくは、前記緯糸として、前記第１の糸と前記第２の糸とを交互に配置ように構成することができる。
さらに好ましくは、前記第２の糸が前記第１の糸よりも２倍以上太いように構成することができる。
さらに好ましくは、前記弾性糸は、ポリウレタン糸を芯糸としてナイロン糸で被覆したカバリング糸であって、前記第１の糸および第２の糸は、綿糸であって、前記第２の糸が前記第１の糸よりも太く、前記カバリング糸の太さを１とした場合に、前記第１の糸の太さが０．９３〜１．７３であって、前記第２の糸の太さが１．８６〜３．４５であるように構成することができる。
Preferably, as the weft, the first yarn and the second yarn can be arranged alternately.
More preferably, the second thread can be configured to be at least twice as thick as the first thread.
More preferably, the elastic yarn is a covering yarn in which a polyurethane yarn is used as a core yarn and is coated with a nylon yarn, the first yarn and the second yarn are cotton yarns, and the second yarn is the said yarn. When the thickness of the covering thread is 1, the thickness of the first thread is 0.93 to 1.73, and the thickness of the second thread is thicker than that of the first thread. It can be configured to be 1.86 to 3.45.
また、本発明に別の局面に係る下半身用衣類は、上述したいずれかの伸縮性織物を用いた下半身用衣類であることを特徴とする。
好ましくは、前記伸縮性織物における伸縮性の大きい方向が前記下半身用衣類における胴回りまたは太腿回り方向であるように構成することができる。
Further, the lower body garment according to another aspect of the present invention is characterized by being a lower body garment using any of the above-mentioned elastic woven fabrics.
Preferably, the direction of high elasticity in the stretchable woven fabric can be configured to be the waist circumference or the thigh circumference direction in the lower body garment.
本発明の伸縮性織物によれば、編物ではなく織物であるにも関わらず大きな伸縮性（よく伸びてよく縮む）を備えた織物を提供することができるとともに、それを用いて好適な方向に大きな伸縮性を備えた下半身用衣類を提供することができる。 According to the stretchable woven fabric of the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven fabric having great elasticity (well stretches and shrinks well) even though it is a woven fabric rather than a knitted fabric, and it can be used in a suitable direction. Lower body garments with great elasticity can be provided.
以下、本発明の実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物およびそれを用いた下半身用衣類を、図面に基づき詳しく説明する。なお、織物の構造（織り糸、織組織等）には様々なものがあり、本発明は特定の構造に限定されるものではなく、後述する特徴を備えたものであれば、どのような織物の構造であっても基本的には構わない。そのため、以下に示す伸縮性織物の構造自体は単なる例示でしかない。さらに、本発明に係る下半身用衣類の一例として説明するレギンスの構造には様々なものがあり、本発明に係る下半身用衣類がレギンスであるとしても特定の構造に限定されるものではなく、本発明に係る伸縮性織物が備える大きな伸縮性を下半身用衣類における好適な方向に向けたものであれば、どのようなレギンスの構造であっても、レギンスを構成する編地の種類、編糸の種類はどのようなものであっても、基本的には構わない。そのため、レギンスの構造自体は単なる例示でしかない。また、このようなレギンス以外のデニムパンツ等も本発明に係る下半身用衣類の一例である。なお、全ての図において伸縮性織物の伸縮性の大きな方向を白抜き両矢印で示している。 Hereinafter, the stretchable woven fabric according to the embodiment of the present invention and the lower body clothing using the same will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. The structure of the woven fabric (weaving thread, weaving structure, etc.) is various, and the present invention is not limited to a specific structure, and any woven fabric has the characteristics described later. Basically, it does not matter even if it is a structure. Therefore, the structure of the elastic woven fabric shown below is merely an example. Further, there are various structures of leggings described as an example of the lower body garment according to the present invention, and even if the lower body garment according to the present invention is leggings, the structure is not limited to a specific structure. As long as the large elasticity of the elastic woven fabric according to the invention is directed in a suitable direction for lower body garments, the type of knitted fabric and the knitting yarn that make up the leggings can be used regardless of the structure of the leggings. It doesn't matter what kind it is. Therefore, the structure of leggings itself is just an example. Further, denim pants and the like other than such leggings are also examples of lower body clothing according to the present invention. In all figures, the direction of large elasticity of the elastic woven fabric is indicated by a white double-headed arrow.
図１に示す本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物を構成する経糸と緯糸との交錯状態を示す組織図および図３に示す本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物を模式的に示す図（布地の表面（肌に接さない面））を参照して、伸縮性織物の織組織について詳しく説明する。
本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物の織組織は、三原組織の中の綾織りを基本としてそれを変形させた織組織であって図１の組織図で示される。本発明に係る伸縮性織物の織組織は、後述する経糸および緯糸による綾織りまたは綾織りの変形組織であることを特徴とする。以下においては、本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物の織組織は、綾織りの変形組織であるとして説明する。
A structure diagram showing an interlaced state of warp threads and weft threads constituting the elastic woven fabric according to the present embodiment shown in FIG. 1 and a diagram schematically showing the elastic woven fabric according to the present embodiment shown in FIG. 3 (of the fabric). The woven structure of the stretchable fabric will be described in detail with reference to the surface (the surface that does not come into contact with the skin).
The woven structure of the stretchable woven fabric according to the present embodiment is a woven structure obtained by modifying the twill weave in the Mihara structure as a basis, and is shown in the structure diagram of FIG. The woven structure of the stretchable woven fabric according to the present invention is characterized by being a twill weave or a modified structure of the twill weave by warp threads and weft threads described later. In the following, the woven structure of the stretchable woven fabric according to the present embodiment will be described as a modified structure of the twill weave.
図１および図３において、一の経糸は、１の緯糸の下に沈み、２，３，４の緯糸の上に浮いて、５，６の緯糸の下に沈み、７，８の緯糸の上に浮いて、９，１０の緯糸の下に沈
み、１１，１２の緯糸の上に浮いて、１３の緯糸の下に沈み、１４，１５，１６の緯糸の上に浮くというように浮沈を繰り返す。
二の経糸は、１，２の緯糸の上に浮いて、３の緯糸の下に沈み、４，５，６の緯糸の上に浮いて、７の緯糸の下に沈み、８，９，１０の緯糸の上に浮いて、１１，１２の緯糸の下に沈み、１３，１４の緯糸の上に浮いて、１５，１６の緯糸の下に沈むというように浮沈を繰り返す。
In FIGS. 1 and 3, one warp sinks below the weft of 1, floats above the wefts of 2, 3 and 4, sinks below the wefts of 5, 6 and above the wefts of 7, 8. Float, sink under the wefts of 9,10, float above the wefts of 11,12, sink below the wefts of 13, float above the wefts of 14,15,16, and so on. ..
The second warp floats above the wefts 1 and 2, sinks below the weft 3, floats above the wefts 4, 5, 6 and sinks below the weft 7, 8, 9, 10 It floats on the weft of No. 11, sinks under the weft of 11, 12, floats on the weft of 13, 14, and sinks under the weft of 15, 16, and so on.
三の経糸は、１，２の緯糸の下に沈み、３，４の緯糸の上に浮いて、５，６の緯糸の下に沈み、７，８の緯糸の上に浮いて、９の緯糸の下に沈み、１０，１１，１２の緯糸の上に浮いて、１３の緯糸の下に沈み、１４，１５，１６の緯糸の上に浮くというように浮沈を繰り返す。
四の経糸は、１，２の緯糸の上に浮いて、３の緯糸の下に沈み、４，５，６の緯糸の上に浮いて、７，８の緯糸の下に沈み、９，１０の緯糸の上に浮いて、１１，１２の緯糸の下に沈み、１３，１４の緯糸の上に浮いて、１５の緯糸の下に沈み、１６の緯糸の上に浮くというように浮沈を繰り返す。
The third warp sinks below the wefts 1 and 2, floats above the wefts 3 and 4, sinks below the wefts 5 and 6, floats above the wefts 7 and 8, and the weft 9 It sinks underneath, floats on the wefts of 10, 11 and 12, sinks under the weft of 13, floats on the weft of 14, 15 and 16 and so on.
The four warp floats above the wefts 1 and 2, sinks below the weft 3, floats above the wefts 4, 5, and 6, sinks below the wefts 7, 8, and 9,10. Floats on the wefts of, sinks under the wefts of 11, 12, floats on the wefts of 13, 14, sinks under the wefts of 15, floats on the wefts of 16, and so on. ..
五の経糸は、１，２の緯糸の下に沈み、３，４の緯糸の上に浮いて、５の緯糸の下に沈み、６，７，８の緯糸の上に浮いて、９の緯糸の下に沈み、１０，１１，１２の緯糸の上に浮いて、１３，１４の緯糸の下に沈み、１５，１６の緯糸の上に浮くというように浮沈を繰り返す。
六の経糸は、１，２の緯糸の上に浮いて、３，４の緯糸の下に沈み、５，６の緯糸の上に浮いて、７，８の緯糸の下に沈み、９，１０の緯糸の上に浮いて、１１の緯糸の下に沈み、１２，１３，１４の緯糸の上に浮いて、１５の緯糸の下に沈み、１６の緯糸の上に浮くというように浮沈を繰り返す。
The warp of 5 sinks under the wefts of 1 and 2, floats above the wefts of 3 and 4, sinks under the weft of 5, floats above the wefts of 6, 7, and 8, and the weft of 9. It sinks underneath, floats on the wefts of 10, 11 and 12, sinks under the wefts of 13, 14 and floats on the wefts of 15, 16 and so on.
The six warp floats above the wefts 1, 2, and sinks below the wefts 3, 4, and floats above the wefts 5, 6, and sinks below the wefts 7, 8, and 9,10. Floats above the wefts, sinks below the wefts of 11, floats above the wefts 12, 13, and 14, sinks below the wefts of 15, floats above the wefts of 16, and so on. ..
七の経糸は、１の緯糸の下に沈み、２，３，４の緯糸の上に浮いて、５の緯糸の下に沈み、６，７，８の緯糸の上に浮いて、９，１０の緯糸の下に沈み、１１，１２の緯糸の上に浮いて、１３，１４の緯糸の下に沈み、１５，１６の緯糸の上に浮くというように浮沈を繰り返す。
八の経糸は、１，２の緯糸の上に浮いて、３，４の緯糸の下に沈み、５，６の緯糸の上に浮いて、７の緯糸の下に沈み、８，９，１０の緯糸の上に浮いて、１１の緯糸の下に沈み、１２，１３，１４の緯糸の上に浮いて、１５，１６の緯糸の下に沈むというように浮沈を繰り返す。
Seven warp threads sink below 1 weft thread, float above 2, 3 and 4 weft threads, sink below 5 weft threads, float above 6, 7, 8 weft threads, and 9,10. It sinks under the weft of No. 11, floats on the weft of 11, 12, sinks under the weft of 13, 14, and floats on the weft of 15, 16 and so on.
The eight warp floats above the wefts 1 and 2, sinks below the wefts 3, 4, and floats above the wefts 5, 6, and sinks below the weft 7, 8, 9, 10. It floats on the weft of No. 11 and sinks under the weft of 11, floats on the weft of 12, 13 and 14, and sinks under the weft of 15, 16 and so on.
このように一〜八の経糸が、図１および図３に示すとおりに緯糸１〜１６の上に浮くまたは緯糸１〜１６の下に沈むという浮沈を繰り返す。
このような綾織りの変形組織においては、経糸が浮いた点が織物の表面に斜線として現れる。これを斜文線１０として図２に示す。そして、この斜文線１０が左下から右上に向かって走る面を織物の表という。なお、図２の「２０」および「４０」は、それぞれ「綿糸２０番手」および「綿糸４０番手」を示している。なお、本発明において「番手」は、「綿番手」であって、いわゆる「番手（英式）」であって恒重式単位である。より詳しくは、基準の重さを４５３．６ｇ（１ポンド）として、かつ、基準の長さを７６８．１ｍ（８４０ヤード）とした場合を１番手として、４５３．６ｇでＡ×７６８．１ｍあればＡ番手となる。このようにＡが大きい方が綿糸の太さは細くなる。
In this way, the warp threads 1 to 8 repeat the ups and downs of floating above the weft threads 1 to 16 or sinking below the weft threads 1 to 16 as shown in FIGS. 1 and 3.
In such a deformed structure of twill weave, the floating points of the warp threads appear as diagonal lines on the surface of the woven fabric. This is shown in FIG. 2 as an oblique line 10. The surface on which the diagonal line 10 runs from the lower left to the upper right is called the front of the woven fabric. In addition, "20" and "40" of FIG. 2 indicate "cotton thread 20th count" and "cotton thread 40th count", respectively. In the present invention, the "count" is a "cotton count", which is a so-called "count (English style)" and is a constant weight unit. More specifically, if the standard weight is 453.6 g (1 pound) and the standard length is 768.1 m (840 yards), the first place is 453.6 g and A x 768.1 m. If it is A, it will be A. As described above, the larger A is, the thinner the cotton thread is.
さらに、詳しく、本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物について図３を参照して説明する。この図３は、本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物を模式的に示す図（布地の表面（肌に接さない面））である。、図１および図３を参照して説明したように、一〜八の経糸が、緯糸１〜１６の上に浮くまたは緯糸１〜１６の下に沈むという浮沈を繰り返している。そして、この経糸として、ポリウレタン糸の芯糸をナイロン糸で被覆したシングルカバリング糸（ＳＣＹ）を採用しているが、他の糸、たとえばダブルカバリング糸（ＤＣＹ）等を採用しても構わない。 Further, the elastic woven fabric according to the present embodiment will be described in detail with reference to FIG. FIG. 3 is a diagram schematically showing the stretchable woven fabric according to the present embodiment (the surface of the fabric (the surface that does not come into contact with the skin)). As described with reference to FIGS. 1 and 3, the warp threads 1 to 8 repeatedly float and sink above the weft threads 1 to 16 or below the weft threads 1 to 16. As the warp, a single covering yarn (SCY) in which the core yarn of the polyurethane yarn is coated with a nylon yarn is adopted, but another yarn such as a double covering yarn (DCY) may be adopted.
そして、緯糸には、経糸よりも吸水性または通気性に優れた第１の糸および第２の糸を採用している。ここでは、これらの第１の糸および第２の糸として綿糸を採用している。このような綿糸を緯糸として採用して、かつ、第１の糸と第２の糸とは太さが異なる。よ
り詳しくは、ここでは、第２の糸が第１の糸よりも２倍以上太い。さらに具体的には、図３に示すように、第２の糸が第１の糸よりも２倍以上太い一例として、太い方の第２の糸として２０番手綿糸を採用して、細い方の第１の糸として４０番手綿糸を採用している。
As the weft, the first yarn and the second yarn, which are superior in water absorption or breathability to the warp yarn, are adopted. Here, cotton yarn is adopted as these first yarn and second yarn. Such a cotton yarn is adopted as a weft yarn, and the thickness of the first yarn and the second yarn are different. More specifically, here, the second thread is more than twice as thick as the first thread. More specifically, as shown in FIG. 3, as an example in which the second thread is more than twice as thick as the first thread, 20th cotton thread is adopted as the thicker second thread, and the thinner one. A 40th cotton yarn is used as the first yarn.
また、経糸として採用したカバリング糸の太さを１とした場合に、第１の糸の太さが０．９３〜１．７３であって、第２の糸の太さが１．８６〜３．４５であることが好ましい。より具体的には、経糸を４０デニール（４４．４４ｄｔｅｘ）のポリウレタン糸を芯糸として７０デニール（７７．７７ｄｔｅｘ）２４フィラメントのナイロン糸で被覆したシングルカバリング糸（合計１１０デニール程度）を採用した場合、緯糸の第１の糸として２８番手〜５２番手程度の綿糸を採用することが好ましく、緯糸の第２の糸して１４番手〜２６番手程度の綿糸を採用することが好ましい。そして、図３に示すように緯糸として採用される、第１の糸（４０番手綿糸）と第２の糸（２０番手綿糸）とは交互に配置される。 Further, when the thickness of the covering yarn used as the warp yarn is 1, the thickness of the first yarn is 0.93 to 1.73, and the thickness of the second yarn is 1.86 to 3. It is preferably .45. More specifically, when a single covering yarn (a total of about 110 denier) coated with a nylon yarn of 70 denier (77.77 dtex) 24 filaments with a polyurethane yarn of 40 denier (44.44 dtex) as a core yarn is adopted as the warp yarn. It is preferable to use a cotton yarn having a count of 28 to 52 as the first yarn of the weft, and it is preferable to use a cotton yarn having a count of 14 to 26 as the second yarn of the weft. Then, as shown in FIG. 3, the first yarn (40th cotton yarn) and the second yarn (20th cotton yarn) adopted as the weft yarn are alternately arranged.
なお、経糸を４０デニール（４４．４４ｄｔｅｘ）のポリウレタン糸を芯糸として７０デニール（７７．７７ｄｔｅｘ）２４フィラメントのナイロン糸で被覆したシングルカバリング糸（合計１１０デニール程度）を採用して、緯糸の第１の糸として４０番手綿糸を採用して、緯糸の第２の糸して２０番手綿糸を採用して、図１に示す綾織りの変形組織で織成された伸縮性織物全体としては、綿６５％、ナイロン３０％、ポリウレタン５％の重量比率である。 The warp yarn is a single covering yarn (a total of about 110 denier) coated with a nylon yarn of 70 denier (77.77 dtex) 24 filaments using a polyurethane yarn of 40 denier (44.44 dtex) as a core yarn, and the weft yarn is the first. A 40-count cotton yarn is used as the first yarn, a 20-count cotton yarn is used as the second weft yarn, and the stretchable woven fabric woven with the deformed structure of the twill weave shown in FIG. 1 is cotton as a whole. The weight ratio is 65%, nylon 30%, and polyurethane 5%.
次に、図４および図５を参照して、本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物における伸縮性を説明する。なお、図１〜図３と図４（Ａ）ならびに図５（Ａ）および図５（Ｂ）とでは、図面の縦横方向が入れ替わっている。
図４（Ａ）に示すように、本実施の形態に係るストレッチ織物は、経糸としてポリウレタン糸の芯糸をナイロン糸で被覆したシングルカバリング糸（ＳＣＹ）が採用されて、かつ、緯糸として細い方の第１の糸（４０番手綿糸）と太い方の第２の糸（２０番手綿糸）とが交互に配置されるようにして採用されている。
Next, the elasticity of the elastic woven fabric according to the present embodiment will be described with reference to FIGS. 4 and 5. It should be noted that the vertical and horizontal directions of the drawings are interchanged between FIGS. 1 to 3 and FIGS. 4 (A) and 5 (A) and 5 (B).
As shown in FIG. 4A, the stretch woven fabric according to the present embodiment employs a single covering yarn (SCY) in which the core yarn of the polyurethane yarn is coated with a nylon yarn as the warp yarn, and the weft yarn is thin. The first thread (40th cotton thread) and the thicker second thread (20th cotton thread) are alternately arranged.
このストレッチ織物の断面を見ると、図４（Ｂ）に示すように、緯糸として太さの異なる糸を採用しているために緯糸が細い糸（第１の糸）と太い糸（第２の糸）とが交互に並んでいる。このような織上がり直後のストレッチ織物を熱セットを含む後加工することにより図５（Ａ）に示す状態から図５（Ｂ）に示すようにおおよそ半分の長さまで縮む。このように後加工された製品状態のストレッチ織物の断面を見ると、図４（Ｃ）に示すような状態である。このような糸の太さが異なる緯糸を採用しているために、図４（Ｄ）に示すように、ストレッチ性を発現する製品としてのストレッチ織物またはこの製品としてのストレッチ織物を用いた下半身用衣類においては、緯糸の細い糸と太い糸とが一列に並んでおらず、このような糸の太さが異なる組み合わせることにより、よく伸びてよく縮む伸縮性を備えるようになる。たとえば、緯糸として同じ太さの糸を採用すると図４（Ｅ）および図４（Ｆ）の状態になり、緯糸として異なる太さの糸を採用した図４（Ｃ）および図４（Ｄ）の状態に比較して伸びにくく縮みにくい。 Looking at the cross section of this stretch fabric, as shown in FIG. 4 (B), since threads having different thicknesses are used as the weft threads, the weft threads are thin threads (first thread) and thick threads (second thread). Threads) are lined up alternately. By post-processing such a stretch fabric immediately after weaving including a heat set, the stretch fabric is shrunk from the state shown in FIG. 5 (A) to about half the length as shown in FIG. 5 (B). Looking at the cross section of the stretch woven fabric in the product state after being post-processed in this way, it is in the state as shown in FIG. 4 (C). As shown in FIG. 4 (D), since weft yarns having different yarn thicknesses are used, the stretch woven fabric as a product exhibiting stretchability or the lower body using the stretch woven fabric as this product In clothing, thin threads and thick threads of weft threads are not lined up in a row, and by combining such threads having different thicknesses, they have elasticity that stretches well and shrinks well. For example, if threads having the same thickness are used as weft threads, the states shown in FIGS. 4 (E) and 4 (F) are obtained, and in FIGS. 4 (C) and 4 (D), threads having different thicknesses are used as weft threads. It is hard to stretch and shrink compared to the state.
本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物においては、緯糸を４０番手綿糸と２０番手綿糸とを採用しているために断面積は２倍異なり、このような作用効果を好ましく発現させている。上述したように、（経糸として採用したカバリング糸の太さを１とした場合に）第１の糸の太さが０．９３〜１．７３に対して、第２の糸の太さが１．８６〜３．４５であるとこのような作用効果を好ましく発現させるものと考えられる。また、二重織の部分においても伸び縮みするためにさらによく伸びてよく縮む伸縮性を備えるようになる。 In the stretchable woven fabric according to the present embodiment, since the weft yarns are the 40th count cotton yarn and the 20th count cotton yarn, the cross-sectional areas are twice as different, and such an action effect is preferably exhibited. As described above, the thickness of the first thread is 0.93 to 1.73 (assuming that the thickness of the covering thread used as the warp is 1), whereas the thickness of the second thread is 1. When it is .86 to 3.45, it is considered that such an action effect is preferably exhibited. Further, even in the double woven portion, since it expands and contracts, it has elasticity to expand and contract more well.
このような伸縮性織物を下半身用衣類に採用する場合について図５を参照して説明する。本発明に係る下半身用衣類の一例として、図５（Ｃ）および図５（Ｄ）にレギンス１００を示す。
図５（Ｃ）に示す正面図（腹側）および図５（Ｄ）に示す背面図（背中側）を参照して、このレギンス１００は、大きくは、１本の筒状部（ウエスト部１２０を含む胴部１３０）と左右の脚を挿入する２本の筒部（脚部１１０）とで構成されるように縫製されている。このレギンス１００における伸縮性織物の伸縮性の大きな方向を白抜き両矢印で示して
いる。
A case where such an elastic woven fabric is used for lower body clothing will be described with reference to FIG. As an example of the lower body clothing according to the present invention, leggings 100 are shown in FIGS. 5 (C) and 5 (D).
With reference to the front view (ventral side) shown in FIG. 5 (C) and the rear view (back side) shown in FIG. 5 (D), the leggings 100 have a large one tubular portion (waist portion 120). It is sewn so as to be composed of a body portion 130) including the body portion 130) and two tubular portions (leg portions 110) into which the left and right legs are inserted. The direction of large elasticity of the elastic woven fabric in the leggings 100 is indicated by a white double-headed arrow.
このようなレギンス１００において、上述した本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物における伸縮性の大きい方向がレギンス１００の胴回りまたは太腿回り方向であるように伸縮性織物が裁断されて縫製される。このように構成されたレギンス１００は、胴回りまたは太腿回り方向に大きなストレッチ性（よく伸びてよく縮む）を備え、そのストレッチ性は上述した伸縮性織物における緯糸の太さが異なることに起因する作用効果を発現して１７０％程度までの伸縮性を備えることになる。このため、履きやすく、脱ぎやすく、動きやすいレギンスを提供することができる。 In such leggings 100, the elastic woven fabric is cut and sewn so that the direction in which the elastic woven fabric according to the present embodiment described above has high elasticity is the waist circumference or the thigh circumference of the leggings 100. The leggings 100 configured in this way have a large stretchability (stretch well and shrink well) in the waist circumference or thigh circumference direction, and the stretchability is caused by the difference in the thickness of the weft in the above-mentioned elastic woven fabric. It exerts its action and effect and has elasticity up to about 170%. Therefore, it is possible to provide leggings that are easy to put on, take off, and move easily.
さらに、経糸にＳＣＹ（芯糸：４０デニールのポリウレタン糸、被覆糸：７０デニールのナイロン糸）を採用して緯糸に綿糸（４０番手綿糸、２０番手綿糸）を採用して、図１に示す綾織りの変形組織で織成された伸縮性織物の重量比率が綿６５％、ナイロン３０％、ポリウレタン５％であって綿糸の重量比率が大きく、吸水性および／または通気性に優れた下半身用衣類の一例であるレギンスを提供することができる。 Further, SCY (core yarn: 40 denier polyurethane yarn, coating yarn: 70 denier nylon yarn) is adopted as the warp yarn, and cotton yarn (40th count cotton yarn, 20th count cotton yarn) is adopted as the weft yarn, and the twill shown in FIG. The weight ratio of the elastic woven fabric woven with the deformed structure of the woven fabric is 65% cotton, 30% nylon, and 5% polyurethane, and the weight ratio of the cotton yarn is large, and the lower body clothing has excellent water absorption and / or breathability. Leggings, which is an example, can be provided.
以上のようにして、本実施の形態に係る伸縮性織物によると、編物ではなく織物であるにも関わらず大きな伸縮性（よく伸びてよく縮む）を備えた伸縮性織物およびそれを用いた下半身用衣類を提供することができる。
なお、今回開示された実施の形態はすべての点で例示であって制限的なものではないと考えられるべきである。本発明の範囲は上記した説明ではなくて特許請求の範囲によって示され、特許請求の範囲と均等の意味および範囲内でのすべての変更が含まれることが意図される。
As described above, according to the stretchable woven fabric according to the present embodiment, the stretchable woven fabric having great elasticity (stretching well and shrinking well) despite being a woven fabric rather than a knit, and the lower body using the stretchable woven fabric Clothing can be provided.
It should be noted that the embodiments disclosed this time are examples in all respects and are not restrictive. The scope of the present invention is shown not by the above description but by the scope of claims, and it is intended that all modifications within the meaning and scope equivalent to the scope of claims are included.
本発明は、伸縮性織物およびそれを用いた下半身用衣類に好適であり、編物ではなく織物であるにも関わらず大きなストレッチ性（よく伸びてよく縮む伸縮性を有することを意味）を備える点で特に好ましい。 The present invention is suitable for stretchable woven fabrics and garments for lower body using the same, and has a large stretchability (meaning that it has elasticity to stretch well and shrink well) even though it is a woven fabric rather than a knitted fabric. Is particularly preferable.
１００ レギンス
１１０ 脚部
１２０ ウエスト部
１３０ 胴部
100 leggings 110 legs 120 waist 130 body
Claims (6)
経糸に、弾性を備えた弾性糸を採用して、
緯糸に、前記経糸よりも吸水性または通気性に優れた第１の糸および第２の糸を採用して、
前記第１の糸と前記第２の糸とは太さが異なり、
前記経糸および前記緯糸による綾織りまたは綾織りの変形組織であることを特徴とする伸縮性織物。 A stretchy woven fabric with excellent stretchability that stretches well and shrinks well.
Adopting elastic yarn for the warp,
For the weft, a first yarn and a second yarn having better water absorption or breathability than the warp yarn are adopted.
The thickness of the first thread and the second thread are different.
A stretchable woven fabric characterized by a twill weave or a deformed structure of the twill weave by the warp and the weft.
前記第１の糸および第２の糸は、綿糸であって、
前記第２の糸が前記第１の糸よりも太く、
前記カバリング糸の太さを１とした場合に、
前記第１の糸の太さが０．９３〜１．７３であって、
前記第２の糸の太さが１．８６〜３．４５であることを特徴とする、請求項１〜請求項３のいずれかに記載の伸縮性織物。 The elastic yarn is a covering yarn in which a polyurethane yarn is used as a core yarn and is coated with a nylon yarn.
The first thread and the second thread are cotton threads.
The second thread is thicker than the first thread,
When the thickness of the covering thread is 1,
The thickness of the first thread is 0.93 to 1.73,
The stretchable woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the thickness of the second thread is 1.86 to 3.45.
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| CN115233360A (en) * | 2022-08-04 | 2022-10-25 | 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 | Jean fabric capable of not combing after ancient times |
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| JP2009174080A (en) * | 2008-01-24 | 2009-08-06 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Elastic woven or knitted fabric |
| CN103696095A (en) * | 2012-12-31 | 2014-04-02 | 浙江云山纺织印染有限公司 | light colorful elastic fabric and weaving process |
| US20150133017A1 (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2015-05-14 | INVISTA North America S.à.r.l. | Stretch wovens with a control yarn system |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2009174080A (en) * | 2008-01-24 | 2009-08-06 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Elastic woven or knitted fabric |
| US20150133017A1 (en) * | 2012-03-30 | 2015-05-14 | INVISTA North America S.à.r.l. | Stretch wovens with a control yarn system |
| CN103696095A (en) * | 2012-12-31 | 2014-04-02 | 浙江云山纺织印染有限公司 | light colorful elastic fabric and weaving process |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115233360A (en) * | 2022-08-04 | 2022-10-25 | 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 | Jean fabric capable of not combing after ancient times |
| CN115233360B (en) * | 2022-08-04 | 2024-02-20 | 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 | Pseudo-classic non-fraying jean fabric |
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