JP5473380B2 - Elastic warp knitted fabric with uneven pattern - Google Patents
Elastic warp knitted fabric with uneven pattern Download PDFInfo
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- JP5473380B2 JP5473380B2 JP2009096412A JP2009096412A JP5473380B2 JP 5473380 B2 JP5473380 B2 JP 5473380B2 JP 2009096412 A JP2009096412 A JP 2009096412A JP 2009096412 A JP2009096412 A JP 2009096412A JP 5473380 B2 JP5473380 B2 JP 5473380B2
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 49
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 29
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000037431 insertion Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000037237 body shape Effects 0.000 description 11
- 230000008602 contraction Effects 0.000 description 9
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920006306 polyurethane fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 1
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- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Description
本発明は、下着あるいは外衣等に好適に使用し得る凹凸模様を有する伸縮性経編地に関するものである。 The present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric having a concavo-convex pattern that can be suitably used for underwear or outer garments.
ガードル、ブラジャー、ショーツ等の女性用下着やボディスーツ、水着、レオタード等のスポーツウエアその他の衣料において、伸縮性を有するレース編地等の経編地が使用されることが多い。 Warp knitted fabrics such as elastic knitted fabrics are often used in women's underwear such as girdles, bras, and shorts, and sportswear such as body suits, swimwear, and leotards.
伸縮性経編地は、地編の基本組織を、鎖編糸と挿入糸によるサテン編、プレーンコード編、デンビ編、チュール編あるいはメッシュ調の編組織にして、必要に応じてポリウレタン繊維等のスパンデックス糸その他の伸縮性糸を挿入して編成するか、あるいは、編目形成して編成することにより、編地全体に伸縮性を付与し、これに柄筬による通常のレース柄等を一体的に構成するか、あるいは、ジャカードガイド筬による厚地、薄地、穴地等の変化による所謂ジャカードレース柄を一体に構成したものが一般的である。 The elastic warp knitted fabric is made of a satin knitting with chain knitting yarn and insertion yarn, plain cord knitting, denbi knitting, tulle knitting or mesh knitting knitting structure, and polyurethane fiber etc. By knitting by inserting spandex yarn or other elastic yarn, or knitting by forming a stitch, the entire knitted fabric is given elasticity, and a normal lace pattern or the like is integrally formed with the handle. In general, a so-called jacquard lace pattern is integrally formed by changing the thick ground, thin ground, hole or the like by the jacquard guide rod.
従来のジャカードレース編地等の伸縮性経編地は、伸縮性糸が編地全体に挿入されて、編地全体がほぼ一様な伸縮パワーや伸長性を有するものであり、この編地を使用して作ったガードルやブラジャー等の衣類を着用した場合に、フィット性はある程度はよいものの、部分的に大きい伸縮パワーや伸長性を持つものではなく、体型に応じた体型補整機能が十分には得られないものであった。 A stretchable warp knitted fabric such as a conventional jacquard knitted fabric has a stretch yarn inserted into the entire knitted fabric, and the entire knitted fabric has substantially uniform stretch power and stretchability. When wearing clothing such as girdle or bra made using, the fit is good to some extent, but it does not have a partly large stretch power and stretchability, and the body shape correction function according to the body shape is sufficient It was not obtained.
このため、従来は、部分的に大きい伸縮パワーや伸長性を持たせて体型補整機能を発揮させるために、別の伸縮性生地を当て布等として縫製していた。しかしながら、別の伸縮性生地を当て布にして部分的に伸縮パワーを大きくしたり小さくしたりした衣料は、当て布が存在する部分と存在しない部分との境界部に、厚みの違いによる段差があらわれ、それがアウターウエアの外側からも視覚でき、外観的体裁を著しく低下させるという問題があった。また縫合部が硬くなって肌触りが悪くなり、着用者に不快感を与えるという問題があった。 For this reason, conventionally, another stretch fabric has been sewn as a dressing cloth or the like in order to exert a large body stretching power and stretchability and exert a body shape correction function. However, clothing that is partially stretched with a stretchable fabric and partially increased or decreased in stretch power has a difference in thickness at the boundary between the part where the patch is present and the part where the patch is not present. It appeared, and it was visible from the outside of the outerwear, and there was a problem that the appearance was remarkably lowered. In addition, there is a problem that the stitched portion becomes hard and feels unpleasant, giving the wearer discomfort.
そのため、近年、経編による伸縮性生地において、当て布を使用することなく、部分的に伸縮パワーや伸長性を高めることが提案されている。
例えば、特許文献1には、非伸縮性糸と2種以上の伸縮性糸とを交編することにより、部分的に高い伸縮性を有する部分と低い伸縮性を有する部分とを、切り替え部を有しないように連続させて編成することが提案されている。
For this reason, in recent years, it has been proposed to partially increase the stretching power and stretchability of stretchable fabrics by warp knitting without using a batter.
For example, in Patent Document 1, by switching the non-stretchable yarn and two or more kinds of stretchable yarns, a portion having a high stretchability and a portion having a low stretchability are provided as a switching unit. It has been proposed to knit continuously so as not to have.
しかしながら、前記提案の場合、高伸縮性部分および低伸縮性部分が編立ての方向、すなわち経編の場合は編目方向(経方向)に直線状をなしているもので、体型補整機能も直線的なものに限られ、充分な機能を発揮できないものであった。 However, in the case of the above proposal, the high stretch portion and the low stretch portion are linear in the knitting direction, that is, in the case of warp knitting, the stitch direction (warp direction), and the body shape correction function is also linear. However, it was limited to that which was not able to exhibit sufficient functions.
また、特許文献2には、非伸縮性糸と伸縮性糸とにより経編編成されるレース編地等の編地において、伸縮パワーの強弱の要求に応じて、地編の表側にあらわれる編組織を切り替えて、組織の変化により、緊迫力(伸縮パワー)の強い部分を形成し、この伸縮パワーの強い部分をカーブさせたパターン形状とすることが提案されている。 Further, in Patent Document 2, in a knitted fabric such as a lace knitted fabric that is warp knitted with a non-stretchable yarn and a stretchable yarn, a knitting structure that appears on the front side of the ground knitting in response to a request for strength of stretching power It is proposed to form a pattern shape in which a portion having a strong tension (stretching power) is formed due to a change in tissue, and the portion having a strong stretching power is curved.
さらに、特許文献3には、経編編成により、地編組織において伸縮性糸が挿入されるか又は編み込まれてなる伸縮性経編地において、編地緯方向における糸の伸縮パワーや伸長性等の特性の変化と、編組織の変化との組合せにより、伸縮パワー及び伸長性の少なくとも一方を適宜変化させ、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を異にする複数の領域を設けた伸縮性経編地が提案されている。 Further, in Patent Document 3, in a stretchable warp knitted fabric in which a stretchable yarn is inserted or knitted in a ground knitting structure by warp knitting, the stretch power and stretchability of the yarn in the knitted fabric weft direction, etc. Elastic warp knitted fabric provided with a plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or stretchability by appropriately changing at least one of stretch power and stretchability by combining the change in the characteristics of the fabric and the change in the knitting structure Has been proposed.
本発明は、編組織を変えて伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を変化させた従来の伸縮性経編地とは異なり、柄筬で、太さ及び/又は伸長性の異なる柄糸を挿入して凹凸変化を形成することにより、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を変化させた領域を複数設けた凹凸模様を有する伸縮性経編地を提供することを目的とする。 Unlike the conventional stretch warp knitted fabric in which the stretch power and / or stretchability is changed by changing the knitting structure, the present invention inserts a handle yarn having a different thickness and / or stretchability with a handle. It is an object of the present invention to provide a stretchable warp knitted fabric having a concavo-convex pattern provided with a plurality of regions in which the stretch power and / or stretchability is changed by forming the unevenness change.
本発明者らは、上記課題を解決するために鋭意検討した結果、本発明をなすに至った。
即ち、本発明は、以下のとおりである。
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have made the present invention.
That is, the present invention is as follows.
1.柄筬がジャガード筬の前に配置された経編機により編成された伸縮性経編地であって、該柄筬に、該経編地の地編を構成する鎖編糸及び挿入糸とは異なる太さ及び/又は伸長性を有する柄糸を挿入することにより該経編地の少なくとも1の面に該挿入された柄糸で帯状の凸部を形成することによって凹凸模様を形成するとともに、該凸部の伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を該地編のものに比べて高めたことを特徴とする前記経編地。 1. Eosa is a is stretchable warp knitted fabric knitted by arranged warp knitting machine before the jacquard reed, to the Eosa, the chain knitting yarns and the inserting yarn constituting the ground knitted of該経knitted fabric Forming a concavo-convex pattern by forming a band-like convex portion with the inserted pattern yarn on at least one surface of the warp knitted fabric by inserting a pattern yarn having different thickness and / or extensibility ; the warp knitted fabric, characterized in that the expansion power and / or extension of the convex portion was increased as compared with that of該地ed.
2.前記柄糸が、ナイロン糸、ポリエステル糸、レーヨン糸、綿糸及びポリウレタン糸から選ばれる1種又は2種以上である、前記1に記載の経編地。 2. The handle yarn, nylon yarn, polyester yarn is rayon yarn, one or more Ru selected from cotton and polyurethane yarn, warp knitted fabric according to the 1.
本発明の凹凸模様を有する伸縮性経編地は、従来の伸縮性経編地に比べ、身体へのフィット性が改善され、体型に応じた補整機能を確実かつ十分に発揮させることができる。また、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性の変化領域の設定、伸縮パワーの強弱、伸長性の大小の設定及び変更等が容易であり、かつ、その変化を多様化することができる。 The stretch warp knitted fabric having the uneven pattern according to the present invention has improved fit to the body as compared with the conventional stretch warp knitted fabric, and can reliably and sufficiently exert the compensation function according to the body shape. In addition, it is easy to set the change area of the stretch power and / or stretchability, the strength of the stretch power, the magnitude of the stretch ability, and the change, and the change can be diversified.
本発明について、以下に詳細に説明する。
従来の伸縮性経編地は、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性に関する機能を変化させるために、編組織の変化によっているが、それとは異なり、本発明の伸縮性経編地は、柄筬で、太さ及び/又は伸長性の異なる柄糸を挿入して凹凸変化を形成することにより、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を変化させた領域が複数設けられていることを特徴とする。
The present invention will be described in detail below.
The conventional stretch warp knitted fabric depends on the change of the knitting structure in order to change the function relating to the stretch power and / or stretchability, but unlike that, the stretch warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a handle. A plurality of regions in which the stretching power and / or stretchability are changed by forming a concavo-convex change by inserting pattern yarns having different thicknesses and / or stretchability are provided.
本発明の凹凸模様を有する伸縮性経編地は、柄筬がジャカード筬の前に配置された経編機を使用し、太さや性質の異なる柄糸を挿入して、編地の表裏に凹凸変化を形成することにより、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を変化させた領域が複数設けられている編地である。 The stretch warp knitted fabric having a concavo-convex pattern according to the present invention uses a warp knitting machine in which the handle is placed in front of the jacquard fold, inserts pattern yarns having different thicknesses and properties, on the front and back of the knitted fabric The knitted fabric is provided with a plurality of regions in which the expansion / contraction power and / or the stretchability are changed by forming the unevenness change.
本発明の凹凸模様を有する伸縮性経編地においては、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性に関する機能の異なる部分が立体的に表現されているという点で、平面的に表現されている従来の伸縮性経編地とは明確に異なる。 In the elastic warp knitted fabric having a concavo-convex pattern according to the present invention, the conventional elastic properties expressed in a plane are expressed in that the portions with different functions relating to the elastic power and / or extensibility are expressed three-dimensionally. It is clearly different from warp knitted fabric.
本発明の凹凸模様を有する伸縮性経編地において、編地の表裏に形成される凹部及び凸部は、それぞれ帯条に配置されていることが好ましく、凹部と凸部の幅や間隔は、編地の用途及び目的、例えば、体型や補整機能等により適宜変えることができる。また、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性の変化は、挿入される柄糸の種類、特性、太さ、本数あるいはこれらの組み合わせ、形成される凹部と凸部の幅や間隔等を、目的あるいは用途に応じて適宜選択することにより、多様化することができる。 In the elastic warp knitted fabric having a concavo-convex pattern of the present invention, the concave and convex portions formed on the front and back of the knitted fabric are preferably arranged on the strips, respectively, and the width and interval of the concave and convex portions are as follows: It can be appropriately changed depending on the use and purpose of the knitted fabric, for example, the body shape and the correction function. In addition, the change in stretch power and / or stretchability can be achieved by changing the type, characteristics, thickness, number, or combination of the handle yarns to be inserted, the width and spacing of the formed concave and convex portions, etc. It can diversify by selecting suitably according to it.
本発明において、柄筬によって挿入される柄糸は、特に限定されるものではないが、ナイロン糸、ポリエステル糸、レーヨン糸、綿糸及びポリウレタン糸から選ばれた1種又は2種以上であることが好ましい。 In the present invention, the pattern yarn inserted by the handle is not particularly limited, but may be one or more selected from nylon yarn, polyester yarn, rayon yarn, cotton yarn and polyurethane yarn. preferable.
本発明において、前記の伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を異にする複数の領域のうち、伸縮パワーの大きい領域を、衣料に使用した場合において体型に応じた補整機能を発揮するように設定しておくことも容易に可能である。これにより、衣料での使用において、体型補整機能を良好に発揮できるものになる。 In the present invention, among the plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or stretchability, a region having a large stretching power is set so as to exhibit a compensation function according to the body shape when used for clothing. It is also possible to set it easily. Thus, the body shape correcting function can be satisfactorily exhibited in use in clothing.
また、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を異にする複数の領域のうち、伸長性の大きい領域を、衣料に使用した場合の形態に体型において体型の膨らみ部分に対応する部位に設定しておくこともできる。これにより、衣料に使用した場合の体型に対する適応性を高めることができる。 In addition, among a plurality of regions having different stretching power and / or stretchability, a region having a large stretchability is set as a part corresponding to the bulge portion of the body shape in the form when used for clothing. You can also. Thereby, the adaptability with respect to the body shape at the time of using for clothing can be improved.
例えば、柄糸を、編地緯方向における所要の領域個所で糸の太さ及び本数の少なくとも一方を変えて編成することにより、伸縮パワー及び/又は伸長性を変化させることができる。また、例えば、伸縮パワーが要求される部分には、柄糸として伸縮パワーの大きい太い糸を、また伸縮パワーをそれほど必要としない部分には、柄糸として伸縮パワーの小さい細い糸を使用する。 For example, it is possible to change the stretch power and / or stretchability by knitting the pattern yarn by changing at least one of the thickness and the number of yarns at a required region in the knitted fabric weft direction. In addition, for example, a thick thread having a large expansion / contraction power is used as a pattern thread for a portion that requires expansion / contraction power, and a thin thread having a small expansion / contraction power is used as a pattern thread for a portion that does not require a large expansion / contraction power.
これにより、編地緯方向の所要の領域個所で伸縮パワーを変化させ、伸縮パワーの強い部分と弱い部分を作ることができる。また、同じ太さの糸であっても、挿入する糸本数を変化させて伸縮パワーを変化させることもできる。また、これら糸の太さと糸本数との組み合わせにより、経緯の少なくとも1方向の伸縮パワーに差をつけることもでき、多様な伸縮パワーを得ることができる。同様に、伸長性を異にする伸縮性糸を使用することにより、編地の伸長性も変化させることができる。 Thereby, the expansion / contraction power can be changed at a required region in the knitted fabric weft direction, and a strong portion and a weak portion can be formed. Moreover, even if the yarns have the same thickness, the expansion / contraction power can be changed by changing the number of yarns to be inserted. Further, by combining the thickness of the yarn and the number of yarns, it is possible to make a difference in the expansion / contraction power in at least one direction of the process, and various expansion / contraction powers can be obtained. Similarly, the stretchability of the knitted fabric can be changed by using stretchable yarns having different stretchability.
本発明の凹凸模様を有する伸縮性経編地を編成するためには、公知のジャカード筬を備えた経編機を用いることができ、好ましくは、柄筬がジャカード筬の前に配置された経編機を使用して、挿入される柄糸の種類、太さ、本数、形成される凹部と凸部の幅や間隔等を適宜選択することにより、伸縮パワーの強弱や伸長性の大小を変えることができるので、身体へのフィット性、体型に応じた補整機能が効果的に発揮される。 In order to knit the elastic warp knitted fabric having the uneven pattern of the present invention, a known warp knitting machine equipped with a jacquard fold can be used. Preferably, the handle fold is arranged in front of the jacquard fold. Using a warp knitting machine, by selecting the type, thickness, number of pattern yarns to be inserted, and the width and spacing of the concave and convex portions to be formed, the strength of the stretching power and the size of the stretch Since it can be changed, the fit to the body and the correction function according to the body shape are effectively exhibited.
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