JP2022154535A - Textured composite yarn and woven and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide an environment-friendly textured composite yarn and a woven and knitted fabric, which have excellent productivity, refreshing feeling, flexible drape property, high-quality color development and glossy feeling.SOLUTION: A textured composite yarn is a false twisted slub textured yarn consisting only of cellulosic filament and formed of a core yarn and a pressing yarn. A ratio between total fineness of the core yarn and total fineness of the pressing yarn is 3:1 to 5:1. The textured composite yarn is formed by alternately forming a slub part in which the pressing yarn is wound threefold and a middle part in which the pressing yarn is wound once around the core yarn in the longer direction of the core yarn and the pressing yarn. A woven and knitted fabric includes the textured composite yarn and a blending rate of the texture composite yarn is 25 to 100% by mass.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to composite textured yarns and woven or knitted fabrics.

Conventionally, various differentiated composite textured yarns having both the slab-shaped appearance and bulging feeling and the elegant luster of filament yarn have been proposed.

With the recent diversification of consumer needs, there is a demand for composite textured yarns and woven and knitted fabrics containing such textured yarns that maintain conventional characteristics as much as possible while further improving texture, comfort, and reducing the burden on the environment. It is

In response to such a demand, for example, Patent Document 1 proposes a fabric having a mild slab form using plied yarns having a mixture ratio of cellulose filament yarns of 70% or more.

JP 2010-037678 A

However, the woven fabric described in Patent Document 1 has a problem in productivity because the cellulose filament yarn needs to be plied and twisted. In addition, when cellulose-based filament yarns are used as plied yarns, there are problems such as the loss of naturalness in the slub form and the weakening of the bulging feeling.

An object of the present invention is to provide an eco-friendly composite textured yarn and a woven or knitted fabric which are excellent in productivity, have cool texture, supple drape, high-grade color development and luster. .

The present invention has the following aspects.
[1] A false-twisted slab textured yarn composed only of cellulosic filaments and comprising a core yarn and a presser yarn,
The ratio of the total fineness of the core yarn to the total fineness of the presser yarn is 3:1 to 5:1,
Composite textured yarn, wherein a slab portion in which the presser thread is wound three times and a middle portion in which the presser thread is wound once around the core yarn are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the core yarn and the presser yarn. .
[2] The composite textured yarn according to [1], which has a total fineness of 180 to 400 dtex.
[3] The composite textured yarn according to [1] or [2], wherein the cellulosic filaments of the presser yarn have a total fineness of 30 to 84 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 1.0 to 6.5 dtex.
[4] The composite textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the difference between the maximum length and the minimum length of the slab portion is 30 mm or more.
[5] The composite textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the slab portion has a maximum length of 70 to 120 mm and a minimum length of 10 to 50 mm.
[6] The composite textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the cellulosic filaments are acetate, rayon, or cupra.
[7] The core yarn consists of two or more,
The composite textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein at least one core yarn has a yarn length difference of 5 to 40% compared to the other core yarns.
[8] including the composite textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [7],
A woven or knitted fabric, wherein the composite textured yarn has a mixing ratio of 25 to 100% by mass.
[9] The woven or knitted fabric according to [8], which is wrinkled.

According to the composite textured yarn of the present invention, it is possible to provide an eco-friendly woven or knitted fabric which is excellent in productivity, has a refreshing texture, a flexible drape property, a high-class coloring property and a lustrous feeling.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, "woven or knitted fabric" indicates woven or knitted fabric.
In addition, "-" indicating a numerical range means that the numerical values described before and after it are included as a lower limit and an upper limit.

The composite textured yarn of the present invention (hereinafter also referred to as "this composite textured yarn") is a false-twisted slab textured yarn consisting of a core yarn and a presser yarn, which is composed only of cellulosic filaments.
In this composite textured yarn, the ratio of the total fineness of the core yarn to the total fineness of the presser yarn is 3:1 to 5:1, and the slab portion in which the presser yarn is wound three times and the core yarn is wound in one layer. The wound midway portions are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the core thread and the presser thread.
In the present invention, the presser thread is a thread that constitutes the slab portion that is wound three times. The presser thread is sometimes called a sheath thread or a flower thread.

Since the core yarn and the presser yarn are composed only of cellulosic filaments, the hygroscopicity of the present composite textured yarn is maintained, and the woven or knitted fabric can be imparted with a refreshing feel. In addition, by specifying the ratio of the total fineness of the core yarn and the total fineness of the presser yarn when performing composite processing, the convergence is improved, and the woven and knitted fabric has a natural slab-like appearance and is excellent in productivity. is obtained.

The ratio of the total fineness of the core yarn to the total fineness of the presser yarn in the composite processing is 3:1 to 5:1. If the total fineness ratio is 3:1 or more, the slab part where the presser thread is wound three times is suppressed from becoming sloppy, and the quality of the woven or knitted product is stabilized during production. Also, if the total fineness ratio is 5:1 or less, a natural slab-like appearance is likely to be obtained. From these points of view, the ratio of the total fineness of the core yarn to the total fineness of the presser yarn in the combined processing is more preferably 3.5:1 to 4.5:1.

The composite textured yarn of the present invention preferably has a total fineness of 180-400 dtex.
When the total fineness is 180 dtex or more, a natural slab-like appearance and feeling of swelling can be obtained, and weaving and knitting properties are stabilized. If the total fineness is 400 dtex or less, a delicate and luxurious product can be obtained. From these points of view, the total fineness is more preferably 200 to 370 dtex, still more preferably 220 to 350 dtex.

In the composite textured yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the cellulosic filaments of the presser yarn have a total fineness of 30 to 84 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 1.0 to 6.5 dtex.
If the total fineness of the cellulosic filaments of the presser thread is 30 dtex or more, a natural slab-like appearance can be obtained, and if it is 84 dtex or less, the triple-wound slab portion will be suppressed from becoming rough, and the quality will be stable. . From these points of view, the total fineness of the cellulosic filaments of the presser thread is more preferably 35 to 75 dtex, still more preferably 40 to 65 dtex.

Further, if the single fiber fineness of the cellulosic multifilament of the presser thread is 1.0 dtex or more, the triple-wound slab portion is suppressed from becoming mushy, the quality is stabilized, and a cool texture can be obtained. If it is 6.5 dtex or less, a soft texture with a swelling feeling can be obtained.
From these points of view, the monofilament fineness of the cellulosic multifilament of the presser thread is more preferably 1.2 to 5.5 dtex, further preferably 1.4 to 4.5 dtex.

It should be noted that "zukkoke" means that the state of the slab changes when the presser thread, which is twisted three times, changes its twisting state due to friction or the like.

In the composite textured yarn of the present invention, the difference between the maximum length and the minimum length of the slab portion is preferably 30-100 mm.
If the difference between the maximum length and the minimum length of the slab portion is 30 mm or more, a natural appearance effect is produced, and if it is 100 mm or less, a delicate appearance effect is produced.
From these points of view, the difference between the maximum length and the minimum length of the slab portion is more preferably 40 to 90 mm, even more preferably 50 to 80 mm.

The composite textured yarn of the present invention preferably has a slab portion with a maximum length of 70 to 120 mm and a minimum length of 10 to 50 mm.
If the maximum length of the slab portion is 70 to 120 mm, a clear decorative effect is produced, and if the minimum length is 10 to 50 mm, a rich expressive effect reminiscent of the nep tone of linen is produced.

Cellulosic filaments used in the present invention are preferably acetate, rayon, cupra, or lyocell fibers. In particular, acetate fibers are more preferable because they have excellent color developability due to a low refractive index, luxurious luster, a soft and refreshing texture derived from cellulose, and heat setting properties. The cellulose-based filaments used in the present invention are not particularly limited in fiber surface, cross-sectional shape, luster, etc., and may be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the expression of the resulting woven or knitted fabric.

The composite textured yarn of the present invention comprises two or more core yarns, and at least one core yarn can have a yarn length difference of 5 to 40% compared to the other core yarns.
At least one core yarn has a yarn length difference of 5 to 40% compared to the other core yarns, so that the feeling of swelling can be increased, and the slub portion of the triple-wound slab portion can be further suppressed. It is possible to

The yarn length difference of the core yarn is the length difference obtained by cutting out the composite textured yarn, disassembling it, dividing it into individual yarns, measuring the length of each core yarn, and measuring the length of each core yarn.
In addition, the method of making a yarn length difference between a plurality of core yarns is to supply a plurality of core yarns separately when manufacturing a composite textured yarn, and adjust the overfeed rate of the core yarn 2 with respect to the core yarn 1. Yarn length difference can be added.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains the composite textured yarn described above, and the mixture ratio of the composite textured yarn is 25 to 100% by mass.
When the content of the composite textured yarn to the woven or knitted fabric is 25% by mass or more, a puffy texture, a natural look, and a supple drape can be obtained. A more preferable range of the mixture ratio of the composite textured yarn in the woven or knitted fabric is 50% by mass or more, and a further preferable range is 70% by mass or more.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably wrinkled. The wrinkle processing method is not particularly limited, and can be obtained by stuffing wrinkles by putting more fabric than usual into a liquid jet dyeing machine and wrinkling by air flow such as tumbler or air flow after dyeing processing. It may be selected arbitrarily in consideration of the expression of the woven or knitted fabric. The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a natural appearance and a puffy feeling due to the kneading effect by wrinkling.

(Example 1)
Cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, bright 220dtex/34 filament (hereinafter f), single filament chrysanthemum-shaped cross section, moisture content 3.5%) as core yarn, cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (61dtex 15f, single False twisting was performed under the following conditions to obtain a composite textured yarn.
・False twist number (T/m): 2000
・False twist direction: Z
・First heater temperature: 170°C
・Second heater temperature: 190 ° C
・Supply guide distance between false twisting and twisting area of core yarn: 200 mm
・Overfeed ratio of presser yarn to false twisting area of core yarn: 65%

The resulting composite textured yarn was a slub yarn in which a slab in which the presser yarn was wound three times in the longitudinal direction of the core yarn and a midway portion in which the presser yarn was wound in one layer were formed. The average fineness of the composite textured yarn was 335 dtex, and the length of the slab portion was 10 mm to 100 mm.

Using the obtained composite textured yarn, a twill fabric with a warp density of 72 / inch and a weft density of 55 / inch was woven, after scouring, wrinkle processing was applied with a jet dyeing machine, and red disperse dye was applied. Then, dyeing processing was performed at 120° C. to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 82/inch and a weft density of 59/inch.

The resulting fabric has a luxurious color development and luster, a natural slub mottling design effect and moderate swelling, and a refreshing and comfortable texture derived from cellulosic fibers and a supple drape. there were.

(Example 2)
Cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, Bright 135 dtex/33 f, single yarn chrysanthemum cross section, moisture content 3.5%) as core yarn 1, Cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (50 dtex 34 f, single yarn chrysanthemum type) as core yarn 2 Cross section, moisture content 3.5%), cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (40 dtex 9 f, single thread chrysanthemum-shaped cross section, moisture content 3.5%) is used as a presser thread, false twisting is performed under the following conditions, and composite processing is performed. got the yarn
・False twist number (T/m): 2000
・False twist direction: Z
・First heater temperature: 170°C
・Second heater temperature: 200°C
・Supply guide distance between core yarn 1 and false twisting area: 300 mm
・OF ratio of core yarn 2 to false twisted twisted region of core yarn 1: 15%
・Overfeed ratio of presser yarn to false twisting area of core yarn 1: 75%

The obtained composite textured yarn was a slub yarn in which a slab in which the presser yarn was wound three times in the longitudinal direction of the core yarn 1 and the core yarn 2, and a central part in which the presser yarn was wound in a single winding were formed. . The average fineness of the composite textured yarn was 265 dtex, and the length of the slab portion was 15 mm to 110 mm.
Moreover, the difference between the yarn length of the core yarn 1 and the yarn length of the core yarn 2 was 15%.

Using the obtained composite textured yarn, a plain weave with a warp density of 56 / inch and a weft density of 47 / inch was woven, and after scouring, wrinkle processing was performed with a liquid jet dyeing machine, and then red disperse dye was applied. Then, dyeing processing was performed at 120° C. to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 68/inch and a weft density of 52/inch.

The resulting fabric has a luxurious color development and luster, a natural slub mottling design effect and moderate swelling, and a refreshing and comfortable texture derived from cellulosic fibers and a supple drape. there were.

(Example 3)
Using the composite textured yarn used in Example 2 for the warp and weft, a twill fabric was woven.
This green fabric was scouring and dyeing by a conventional method to finish with a warp density of 95/inch and a weft density of 65/inch.
The resulting fabric has a luxurious color development and luster, a natural slub mottling design effect and moderate swelling, and a refreshing and comfortable texture derived from cellulosic fibers and a supple drape. there were.

(Example 4)
Using the composite textured yarn used in Example 2 for the warp and weft, a fabric with a mat structure was woven.
The green fabric was scouring and dyeing by a conventional method to finish with a warp density of 92/inch and a weft density of 68/inch.
The resulting fabric has a luxurious color development and luster, a natural slub mottling design effect and moderate swelling, and a refreshing and comfortable texture derived from cellulosic fibers and a supple drape. there were.

(Comparative example 1)
Polyester filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd., bright 167dtex/48 filament (f), single yarn △ cross section, moisture content 0.2%) as a core yarn, polyester filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd., bright 33dtex 12f, False twisting was performed under the following conditions to obtain a composite textured yarn.
・False twist number (T/m): 2080 T/M
・False twist direction: Z
・First heater temperature: 165°C
・Second heater temperature: 175°C
・Supply guide distance between false twisting and twisting area of core yarn: 350 mm
・Overfeed ratio of presser yarn to false twisting area of core yarn: 80%

The resulting composite textured yarn was a slub yarn in which a slab in which the presser yarn was wound three times in the longitudinal direction of the core yarn and a midway portion in which the presser yarn was wound in one layer were formed. The average fineness of the composite textured yarn was 250 dtex, and the length of the slab portion was 50 mm to 110 mm.

Using the obtained composite textured yarn, a plain weave with a warp density of 90 / inch and a weft density of 74 / inch was woven. Then, dyeing processing was performed at 120° C. to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 95/inch and a weft density of 83/inch.

Although the obtained fabric had a slub-like appearance, it was a fabric with a slimy texture lacking a cool feeling and a strong metallic luster, and was unsatisfactory.

(Comparative example 2)
Cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, bright 135dtex/33f, single yarn chrysanthemum-shaped cross section, moisture content 3.5%) as core yarn, cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (110dtex 26f, single yarn chrysanthemum-shaped cross section, False twisting was performed under the following conditions using a moisture content of 3.5%) to obtain a composite textured yarn.
・False twist number (T/m): 2000
・False twist direction: Z
・First heater temperature: 170°C
・Second heater temperature: 190 ° C
・Supply guide distance between false twisting and twisting area of core yarn: 200 mm
・Overfeed ratio of presser yarn to false twisting area of core yarn: 70%

The resulting composite textured yarn was a slub yarn in which a slab in which the presser yarn was wound three times in the longitudinal direction of the core yarn and a midway portion in which the presser yarn was wound in one layer were formed. The average fineness of the composite textured yarn was 325 dtex, and the length of the slab portion was 10 mm to 90 mm.

Using the obtained composite textured yarn, a twill fabric with a warp density of 74 threads/inch and a weft density of 57 threads/inch was woven. Then, dyeing processing was performed at 120° C. to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 83/inch and a weft density of 60/inch.

The resulting fabric has a luxurious color development and glossiness, and a refreshing and comfortable texture derived from cellulose fibers, but the triple-wound slab portion has many blemishes, and the appearance is not desirable. rice field.

Claims (9)

A false twisted slab textured yarn composed only of cellulose filaments and composed of a core yarn and a presser yarn,
The ratio of the total fineness of the core yarn to the total fineness of the presser yarn is 3:1 to 5:1,
Composite textured yarn, wherein a slab portion in which the presser thread is wound three times and a middle portion in which the presser thread is wound once around the core yarn are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the core yarn and the presser yarn. . The composite textured yarn according to claim 1, having a total fineness of 180 to 400 dtex. The composite textured yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cellulosic filaments of the presser yarn have a total fineness of 30 to 84 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 1.0 to 6.5 dtex. The composite textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the difference between the maximum length and the minimum length of the slab portion is 30 mm or more. The composite textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the slab portion has a maximum length of 70 to 120 mm and a minimum length of 10 to 50 mm. 6. The composite textured yarn according to any one of 1 to 5, wherein the cellulosic filaments are acetate, rayon, or cupra. The core yarn consists of two or more,
The composite textured yarn according to any one of 1 to 6, wherein at least one core yarn has a yarn length difference of 5 to 40% compared to the other core yarns. comprising the composite textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7,
A woven or knitted fabric, wherein the composite textured yarn has a mixing ratio of 25 to 100% by mass. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 8, wherein the fabric is wrinkled.