CN102031616B - Worsted fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Worsted fabric and manufacturing method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102031616B
CN102031616B CN2010106223791A CN201010622379A CN102031616B CN 102031616 B CN102031616 B CN 102031616B CN 2010106223791 A CN2010106223791 A CN 2010106223791A CN 201010622379 A CN201010622379 A CN 201010622379A CN 102031616 B CN102031616 B CN 102031616B
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China
Prior art keywords
yarn
layer
worsted fabric
nexine
level
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CN2010106223791A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN102031616A (en
Inventor
荆朝晖
朱洁
张燕娜
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宁波雅戈尔毛纺织染整有限公司
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Abstract

The invention discloses a worsted fabric. The worsted fabric comprises a surface layer, a middle layer and an inner layer, wherein the warp yarn and weft yarn of the surface layer are a twined yarn of a strand of 8 to12tex of wool yarn and a strand of 2.2 to 4.4tex of mulberry silk; one kind of the warp yarn and weft yarn of the middle layer is 6.2 to 8.3tex*2 of spun silk, and the other kind of the warp yarn and weft yarn of the middle layer is 6.5tex*2 of metallic silk; and the warp yarn and weft yarn of the inner layer are two strands of twined yarns of mixed yarns of 10 to 12.5tex of wool and cashmere. The invention also discloses a manufacturing method of the worsted fabric, which comprises the following steps of: preparing yarns, preparing twined yarns, warping, weaving, and performing after finishing. The worsted fabric has layering effect and three-dimensional effect, and patterns of the worsted fabric are three-dimensional, full and various.

Description

Worsted fabric and manufacturing approach thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to field of textiles, relate in particular to a kind of worsted fabric and manufacturing approach thereof.
Background technology
Along with improving constantly of living standards of the people, the continual renovation of consumption idea, people require increasingly high to the consumption of textile product.And as the worsted fabric of the better-than-average kind of textile product, because characteristics such as its outward appearance is graceful, quality is soft, warmth retention property is good more and more receive consumers in general's favor.But owing to receive raw material, postfinishing process and specific restrictions such as style requirement, existing worsted fabric is essentially single layer structure, and this makes that the surface of worsted fabric is all more smooth, lacks stereovision and third dimension.Even there is colored type on the lining surface, also owing to the flower type feels relatively more dull in two dimensional surface; And the flower type can only in two dimensional surface, change, the big limitations of this limitation the expansion of colored type kind.The unicity of worsted fabric makes it meet with bottleneck in the garment market field, can't squeeze into and account for the huge opinion conversion element of garment market share, women's dress market that individual character is made widely known at present.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is the deficiency that overcomes above prior art, and a kind of worsted fabric is provided, and this worsted fabric has stereovision and third dimension, and its flower type solid is plentiful.
The technical scheme that the present invention adopted is for providing a kind of worsted fabric; Said worsted fabric comprises three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine; The top layer filling yarn is the twine of one 8~12tex wool yarns and one 2.2~4.4tex mulberry silk, and the middle level filling yarn is two kinds, and a kind of is 6.2~8.3tex * 2 spun silk (two strands of " * 2 " expressions); Another kind is 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads (two strands of " * 2 " expressions), and the nexine filling yarn is the twine of two strands of 10~12.5tex wools and cashmere blended yarn.
Wool content is 80~90% in said wool and the cashmere blended yarn.
Another technical problem to be solved by this invention is, the manufacturing approach of this worsted fabric is provided, and this manufacturing approach can be prepared has stereovision and third dimension, and the flower type changes abundant worsted fabric.
A kind of manufacturing approach of worsted fabric may further comprise the steps:
1. prepare yarn: prepare to produce the required yarn of worsted fabric, comprise 8~12tex wool yarns, 2.2~4.4tex mulberry silk, 6.2~8.3tex * 2 spun silk, 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, 10~12.5tex wool and cashmere blended yarn.
2. prepare strand: adopt and close, twist operation, one wool yarns and one mulberry silk are pooled capital prepares wool yarns and mulberry silk twine, and the plying twist is 120~150T t, with two strands of wools and cashmere blended yarn pool capital preparation wool and cashmere blended yarn twine, the plying twist is 88~98T t
3. warping: according to the warp thread arrangement mode, adopt warping machines to carry out warping, speed is 500m/min.
The warp thread arrangement mode circulates for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn successively.
4. weave: adopt top layer, middle level, nexine plain weave three-layer weave to weave, confirm the parallel arrangement mode, draw pegging plan, confirm method of gaiting and reed-in method, weave the formation grey cloth with Rapier looms.
The weft yarn arrangement mode circulates for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn successively.
5. back arrangement: with the grey cloth typing, then open washing, baking, decatizing, worsted fabric.
Compared with prior art; Worsted fabric of the present invention has following remarkable advantage and beneficial effect: worsted fabric of the present invention has three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine: the top layer yarn is the twine of one wool yarns and one mulberry silk; Thin and appear nettedly, can appear the middle level fabric; The middle level is the intertexture of spun silk and metallized thread, has special gloss, and sees through the reticulated on top layer, produces irregular point of scintillation on the lining surface; Nexine is the BLENDED FABRIC of wool and cashmere, and lining is soft, and sense of touch is plentiful, makes comfortable and easy to wearly, and warmth retention property is good.So whole fabric is when satisfying the warmth retention property requirement; Also very attractive in appearance; The yarn of different thicknesses and material is arranged in three-layer weave, makes lining have uneven stereovision, and the colored type solid of formation is plentiful; And interest and mystique that the vivid color of silk and gloss have increased lining have effectively satisfied the high request that expect on the vast personage of liking to be beautiful opposite.
The manufacturing approach of worsted fabric of the present invention adopts the plain weave three-layer weave to weave; In conjunction with the pegging plan of graticule arrangement mode drafting flower type, select the suitable method of gaiting, reed-in method to weave, make the organizations type of weaving out much abundanter than conventional woven; This colored type to worsted fabric has carried out being not only kind; The more important thing is the expansion from the plane to the 3 D stereo, make colored type solid plentiful, enrich changeable; Its position in the lining three-decker of characteristic utilization arranged distribution according to different yarns makes third dimension, the stereovision of lining be able to fully manifest, and makes various raw material functions highlight, respectively get the chief, thereby has improved the overall performance and the esthetic requirement of lining.
Description of drawings
Shown in Figure 1 is the pegging plan in the embodiment of the invention 1;
Shown in Figure 2 is the pegging plan in the embodiment of the invention 2.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing and embodiment the present invention is made further specific descriptions, but be not limited to this.
Embodiment 1
A kind of tartan plaid type worsted fabric comprises three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine: the top layer filling yarn is made as the A yarn for the twine of one 10tex wool yarns and one 2.2tex mulberry silk; The middle level filling yarn is two kinds, and a kind of is 8.3tex * 2 spun silk, is made as the B yarn, and another kind is 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, is made as the C yarn; The nexine filling yarn is the twine of two strands of 12.5tex wools and cashmere blended yarn, is made as the D yarn.Wherein, tex is the legal unit of measurement of line density system, the thickness specification of expression yarn; * 2 for the generic representation method in weaving, representes two strands.
The manufacturing approach of this worsted fabric may further comprise the steps:
1. prepare yarn: prepare to produce the required yarn of this worsted fabric, comprise 10tex wool yarns, 2.2tex mulberry silk, 8.3tex * 2 spun silk, 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, 12.5tex wool and cashmere blended yarn.10tex wool yarns, 12.5tex wool and cashmere blended yarn are the preparation gained; Prior art is adopted in the yarn preparation; The process sequence preparation of promptly dying, spinning according to wool top, bar, wool yarns is that raw material, wool and cashmere blended yarn are raw material (wool content is 90% in wool and the cashmere blended yarn) with wool and cashmere with the wool.2.2tex mulberry silk, 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, 8.3tex * 2 spun silk are common commercial goods, adopt market to buy gained.The material of the metallized thread of buying is synthetic fiber such as terylene, polyamide fibre, acrylic fibers.
2. prepare strand: adopt prior art, promptly and close, twist operation and carry out the strand preparation.One 10tex wool yarns and one 2.2tex mulberry silk are pooled capital, wool and mulberry silk twine, i.e. A yarn, the plying twist is 140T tTwo strands of 12.5tex wools and cashmere blended yarn are pooled capital, wool and cashmere blended yarn twine, i.e. D yarn, the plying twist is 88T t
3. warping: warping adopts prior art, and according to the warp thread arrangement mode, adopt warping machines to carry out warping, speed of beaming is 500m/min.The warp thread arrangement mode circulates for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn successively.
The A yarn that top layer warp thread optional step makes in 2.; B yarn and C yarn that middle level warp thread optional step obtains in 1.; Be used alternatingly; The D yarn that nexine warp thread optional step makes in 2., promptly the warp thread arrangement mode of this embodiment circulates for the order by " (1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D) * 8,2C16D2C/180 " successively.
4. weave: adopt top layer, middle level, nexine plain weave three-layer weave to weave, confirm the parallel arrangement mode, draw pegging plan, confirm method of gaiting and reed-in method, weave the formation grey cloth with Rapier looms.
The weft yarn arrangement mode circulates for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn successively.The A yarn that top layer weft yarn optional step makes in 2.; B yarn and C yarn that middle level weft yarn optional step obtains in 1.; Be used alternatingly; The D yarn that nexine weft yarn optional step makes in 2., promptly the weft yarn arrangement mode of this embodiment circulates for the order by " (1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D) * 8,2C16D2C/180 " successively.
Adopt prior art, according to the shape of the tartan plaid type of pre-prepared, combine the characteristics drafting pegging plan of three-layer weave structure, as shown in Figure 1,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12 represent one page heddle (heald) respectively among the figure.
Select for use the following method of gaiting to gait: (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10) * 16, (11.11.12.12) * 5.
Select for use following reed-in method to carry out denting: the use porter is the reed of 118 reeds/10cm, 5/reed, last machine through close be 590/10cm.
Adopt Rapier looms to weave.When weaving with the flat 105mm that highly is made as of combining of the 3rd, 5,8,10 page of heddle (heald), all the other pages heddle (heald) combine the flat 100mm that highly is made as, differentiation combine flat height, can better clear opening, avoid the generation of float.Last machine filling density is 510/10cm, and the loom speed of a motor vehicle is 320 latitudes/min.
5. back arrangement: the grey cloth after will weaving is typing earlier, keeps preventing thread laying through the flat grid of straight latitude; Adopt the mode of open washing to wash out the worsted fabric soft hand feeling, again through baking, operation such as decatizing must have stereovision third dimension, three-dimensional plentiful (3.5 ± 0.2cm) * (3.5 ± 0.2cm) the tartan plaid type worsted fabrics of flower type.
Embodiment 2
A kind of strip flower type worsted fabric, comprise three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine: the top layer filling yarn is made as the A yarn for the twine of one 8.8tex wool yarns and one 3.2tex mulberry silk, and the plying twist of A yarn is 150T tThe middle level filling yarn is two kinds, and a kind of is 6.5tex spun silk * 2, is made as the B yarn, and another kind is 6.5tex metallized thread * 2, is made as the C yarn; The nexine filling yarn is the twine of two strands of 11.2tex wools and cashmere blended yarn, is made as the A yarn, and the plying twist of D yarn is 98T t
With embodiment 1, A yarn and D yarn are the preparation gained, and B yarn and C yarn are that gained is bought in market.
The operating procedure of this worsted fabric manufacturing approach and embodiment 1 are the variation of some technological parameters together, and the technological parameter of variation is following:
Warp thread arrangement mode (one is followed bad): (1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D) * 4,2C8D2C/92;
Weft yarn arrangement mode (circulation): 1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D/20;
Pegging plan, as shown in Figure 2,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12 represent one page heddle (heald) respectively among the figure;
The method of gaiting: (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10) * 8, (11.11.12.12) * 3;
Reed-in method: the use porter is the reed of 124 reeds/10cm, 5/reed, last machine through close be 620/10cm;
The comprehensive flat of the 3rd, 5,8,10 page of heddle (heald) highly is 110mm when weaving, and the comprehensive flat of all the other pages heddle (heald) highly is 106mm, and last machine filling density is 540/10cm, and the loom speed of a motor vehicle is 300 latitudes/min.
According to the operating procedure of embodiment 1, select above technological parameter for use, must have stereovision third dimension, the three-dimensional plentiful 1.5 ± 0.2cm strip flower type worsted fabric of flower type.
The above embodiment of the present invention is can not be used to limit the present invention to explanation of the present invention, and implication suitable with claims of the present invention and any change in the scope all should be thought to be included in the scope of claims.

Claims (3)

1. worsted fabric; Said worsted fabric comprises three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine, and the top layer filling yarn is the twine of one 8~12tex wool yarns and one 2.2~4.4tex mulberry silk, and the middle level filling yarn is two kinds; A kind of is 6.2~8.3tex * 2 spun silk; Another kind is 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, and the nexine filling yarn is the twine of two strands of 10~12.5tex wools and cashmere blended yarn, it is characterized in that: the manufacturing approach of said worsted fabric may further comprise the steps:
1. prepare yarn: prepare to produce the required yarn of worsted fabric, comprise 8~12tex wool yarns, 2.2~4.4tex mulberry silk, 6.2~8.3tex * 2 spun silk, 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, 10~12.5tex wool and cashmere blended yarn;
2. prepare strand: adopt and close, twist operation; With one wool yarns and one mulberry silk pool capital preparation wool yarns and mulberry silk twine; The plying twist is 120~150Tt; With two strands of wools and cashmere blended yarn pool capital preparation wool and cashmere blended yarn twine, the plying twist is 88~98Tt;
3. warping: according to the warp thread arrangement mode, adopt warping machines to carry out warping, speed is 500m/min;
4. weave: adopt top layer, middle level, nexine plain weave three-layer weave to weave, confirm the parallel arrangement mode, draw pegging plan, confirm method of gaiting and reed-in method, weave the formation grey cloth with Rapier looms;
5. back arrangement: with the grey cloth typing, then open washing, baking, decatizing, worsted fabric.
2. the manufacturing approach of worsted fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the warp thread arrangement mode circulates for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn successively in the said warping step.
3. the manufacturing approach of worsted fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: saidly weave that the weft yarn arrangement mode circulates for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn successively in the step.
CN2010106223791A 2010-12-30 2010-12-30 Worsted fabric and manufacturing method thereof CN102031616B (en)

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CN102304795B (en) * 2011-08-04 2015-05-20 马玉成 Thick-thin-tex piled yarn as well as preparation method of thick-thin-tex piled yarn fabric
CN103361840A (en) * 2013-08-07 2013-10-23 吴江市旭阳纺织有限公司 Noble fabric knitted by warps and wefts
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CN105369434A (en) * 2015-10-08 2016-03-02 丹阳市宇晟纺织新材料有限公司 Manufacturing method for spun yarn wool blended double-plied yarn in content of higher than 50%
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CN106637581A (en) * 2016-12-12 2017-05-10 常州纺织服装职业技术学院 Three-layer worsted fabric and finishing method thereof
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CN107083604A (en) * 2017-06-30 2017-08-22 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 A kind of spinning three layers of scarf and preparation method thereof
CN107723866B (en) * 2017-11-07 2019-10-25 浙江中鼎纺织有限公司 Half combing silk wool top mixes the preparation method of hosiery yarns

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