JP2007162180A - False twisted yarn and woven or knitted fabric, and method for producing false-twisted yarn - Google Patents

False twisted yarn and woven or knitted fabric, and method for producing false-twisted yarn Download PDF

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JP2007162180A
JP2007162180A JP2005362251A JP2005362251A JP2007162180A JP 2007162180 A JP2007162180 A JP 2007162180A JP 2005362251 A JP2005362251 A JP 2005362251A JP 2005362251 A JP2005362251 A JP 2005362251A JP 2007162180 A JP2007162180 A JP 2007162180A
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false
twist
yarn
twisted
twisted yarn
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JP2007162180A5 (en
JP4804140B2 (en
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Jiyunya Imakita
純哉 今北
Atsushi Yamamoto
篤 山本
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Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
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Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a false-twisted yarn which comprises real twisted portions twisted in a false-twisting direction, real twisted portions twisted in a direction opposite to the false-twisting direction, and bulky twisted portions, and can give a woven or knitted fabric exhibiting suitable grain touch, body touch, swollen touch and stretchability. <P>SOLUTION: This false-twisted yarn which comprises a thermoplastic multifilament yarn and comprises the first real twisted portions twisted in a false-twisting direction, the second real twisted portions twisted in a direction opposite to the false-twisting direction, and bulky twisted portions formed between the first real twisted portions and the second real twisted portions is characterized in that the total average real twist number (t/m) of the first real twisted portions and the second real twisted portions is 6,000 to 10,000/√T [T is a total fineness (dtex)]. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

本発明は、適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感、フクラミ感、及びストレッチ性を併せ持った織編物を提供することが可能な仮撚加工糸及び同仮撚加工糸を含む織編物、並びに前記仮撚加工糸の製造方法に関する。   The present invention provides a false knitted yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric having a moderate texture, harshness, fluffiness, and stretchability, and a woven or knitted fabric including the false knitted yarn, and the false twist. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a yarn.

従来、シボ感、ハリコシ感、及びソフト感の風合いを織編物に付与可能な加工糸として、未解撚部分と過解撚部分とを交互に形成された先撚仮撚糸が広く利用されており、この先撚仮撚糸は、一般的に、先撚を付与した撚糸にその先撚方向と同方向に仮撚加工を施すことによって得られている。しかし、このような先撚仮撚糸は、その製造工程で先撚が付与された撚糸が必要とされるため、生産性が極めて低くなる欠点があり、また、同先撚仮撚糸を用いて織編物を織編成した場合に、得られた織編物が硬くなるという欠点もあった。   Conventionally, pre-twisted false twisted yarns in which untwisted and overtwisted portions are alternately formed have been widely used as processed yarns that can impart textures of texture, harshness, and softness to woven and knitted fabrics. The pre-twisted false-twisted yarn is generally obtained by subjecting a twisted yarn with a pre-twist to false twisting in the same direction as the pre-twisted direction. However, such a pre-twisted false-twisted yarn requires a twisted yarn with a pre-twist applied in the production process, and thus has a disadvantage that the productivity is extremely low. When the knitted fabric is knitted, there is also a drawback that the obtained knitted fabric is hardened.

これに対して、先撚工程を省略して仮撚加工を行い、未解撚部分と過解撚部分とが形成された仮撚加工糸を製造する方法が特開2000−336538号公報(特許文献1)に開示されている。この特許文献1に記載されている仮撚加工糸の製造方法では、染色濃度又は染色性の異なる2種類のポリエステル単繊維群からなる未延伸糸にそれぞれ個別に加圧空気により交絡部を形成した後、半延伸により太細斑を付与し、その後、同半延伸した糸条に、仮撚温度が(軟化点−50℃)〜(軟化点−10℃)で、仮撚数(t/m)が15000/√T〜26000/√T(T:デシテックス)となるような仮撚加工が行われている。これにより、未解撚部分として仮撚方向の撚りを有する融着部と、過解撚部分として捲縮及び解撚方向の撚りを有する非融着部とが形成された部分融着仮撚加工糸が得られる。特許文献1によれば、このようにして得られた仮撚加工糸は、強撚調の風合いと適度のシャリ感、及び高度の多色効果を併せ持つポリエステル部分融着仮撚加工糸となるとしている。   On the other hand, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-336538 discloses a method of manufacturing a false twisted yarn in which an untwisted part and an overwound twisted part are formed by performing false twisting while omitting the first twisting process. Document 1). In the false twisted yarn manufacturing method described in Patent Document 1, entangled portions are individually formed by pressurized air on undrawn yarns composed of two types of polyester single fiber groups having different dyeing concentrations or dyeability. Thereafter, thick spots are imparted by semi-stretching, and then the false twisting temperature (softening point−50 ° C.) to (softening point−10 ° C.) is applied to the half-stretched yarn. ) Is 15,000 / √T to 26000 / √T (T: decitex). Thereby, a partial fusion false twisting process in which a fusion portion having a twist in the false twist direction as an untwisted portion and a non-fuse portion having a crimp in the crimped and untwisted direction as an over twist portion are formed. Yarn is obtained. According to Patent Document 1, the false twisted yarn obtained in this manner is a polyester partially fused false twisted yarn having both a strong twisted texture, an appropriate sharpness, and a high multicolor effect. Yes.

また、特開昭54−88337号公報(特許文献2)によれば、先撚工程を省略して、実撚の風合いに近い非嵩高強撚調加工糸を製造する方法が開示されている。この特許文献2に記載されている強撚調加工糸の製造方法では、熱可塑性繊維を含む1種又は2種以上のマルチフィラメント糸に乱流エア処理を行って、フックドロップ値で示される交絡度が5.0cm以下のインターレース糸とし、その後、同インターレース糸に熱可塑性繊維の軟化点以上融点以下の温度で仮撚加工を行う。このように高度の交絡が形成されたインターレース糸に対して、繊維が部分的に融着を起こすような温度で仮撚加工を行うことにより、嵩高性を有する部分が実質的に形成されず、S及びZ撚部(仮撚方向及び解撚方向の撚部)と無撚非嵩高交絡部とを有する実撚の風合いに近い非嵩高強撚調加工糸が高生産性で得られる。   Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-88337 (Patent Document 2) discloses a method for producing a non-bulky and strong twisted processed yarn close to the texture of a real twist by omitting the first twisting step. In the method for producing a strongly twisted yarn described in Patent Document 2, turbulent air treatment is performed on one or more multifilament yarns including thermoplastic fibers, and the entanglement indicated by the hook drop value is performed. The interlace yarn having a degree of 5.0 cm or less is subjected to false twisting at a temperature not lower than the softening point and not higher than the melting point of the thermoplastic fiber. By performing false twisting at a temperature at which the fibers partially fuse with respect to the interlace yarn in which a high degree of entanglement is formed in this way, a part having bulkiness is not substantially formed, A non-bulky strong twisted yarn close to the texture of a real twist having S and Z twisted portions (twisted portions in the false twist direction and untwisted direction) and untwisted non-bulky entangled portions can be obtained with high productivity.

更に、特開昭55−67025号公報(特許文献3)においては、実撚調の風合や淡い絣を呈する織編物を得るために、仮撚加工の際に繊維相互の融着を極力少なくして未解撚部分と過解撚部分とが形成された実撚調仮撚加工糸が記載されている。特許文献3によれば、従来では、マルチフィラメント糸に仮撚加工を施して仮撚加工糸を製造する際に、スピンドル方式の仮撚装置を用いて繊維が部分的に融着を起こすような高い加熱温度の下で仮撚加工を施した場合、得られた仮撚加工糸で織編物を織編成しても、実撚糸様の風合や淡い絣を呈することはできないという問題があった。   Furthermore, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 55-67025 (Patent Document 3), in order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a real twisted texture and light wrinkles, the fusion between fibers is minimized as much as possible during false twisting. Thus, a real twisted false twisted yarn in which an untwisted portion and an overwound portion are formed is described. According to Patent Document 3, conventionally, when a false twisted yarn is manufactured by applying false twisting to a multifilament yarn, the fiber is partially fused using a spindle type false twisting device. When false twisting is performed under a high heating temperature, there is a problem that even if a woven or knitted fabric is knitted with the obtained false twisted yarn, it cannot give a real twisted yarn-like texture or light wrinkles. .

このため、特許文献3は、上記のような問題を解決するために、未延伸糸を供給糸として摩擦仮撚装置に供給し、同摩擦仮撚装置により定常状態で糸のバルーニングを発生させないように延伸仮撚加工を行うことによって仮撚加工糸を製造している。このとき、仮撚加撚数は21000/√D(D:デニール)以上とし、且つ、仮撚温度は、仮撚加工の際に繊維が融着しない温度に設定される。   For this reason, in order to solve the above problems, Patent Document 3 supplies undrawn yarn as a supply yarn to a friction false twisting device so that the friction false twisting device does not cause yarn ballooning in a steady state. A false twisted yarn is manufactured by performing a false false twist process. At this time, the number of false twists is 21000 / √D (D: denier) or more, and the false twist temperature is set to a temperature at which the fibers are not fused during false twisting.

これにより、撚密度が21000/√Dであり、繊維の捲縮形態が糸の撚構造と一致している堅密撚糸構造の未解撚部分と、同未解撚部分とは反対方向の撚を有し、かつ繊維の捲縮形態が露顕している嵩高撚糸構造の過解撚部分とを交互に有し、これら両構造以外の無撚糸構造部分は実質的に含まない仮撚加工糸が得られる。特許文献3によれば、このような仮撚加工糸を用いて得られた織編物は、実撚糸様の風合や淡い絣を呈するとしている。また、この特許文献3に記載されている仮撚加工糸は、織編物にフクラミ感を付与し、更に実撚部を有することからハリコシ感の付与も期待できるものである。   Thus, the untwisted portion of the tight twisted yarn structure in which the twist density is 21000 / √D and the crimped form of the fiber matches the twisted structure of the yarn, and the twist in the opposite direction to the untwisted portion And false twisted yarns that are alternately free of untwisted yarn structure portions other than both of these structures. can get. According to Patent Document 3, a woven or knitted fabric obtained using such a false twisted yarn has a real twisted yarn-like texture and light wrinkles. Moreover, since the false twisted yarn described in Patent Document 3 imparts a feeling of fluffiness to a woven or knitted fabric and further has a real twisted portion, it can also be expected to impart a feeling of tension.

更にまた、特開平1−52833号公報(特許文献4)は、先撚工程を省略して簡単で生産効率良く、従来の先撚仮撚加工糸に匹敵する先撚調仮撚加工糸を製造可能な方法を開示している。この特許文献4に記載されている製造方法は、先撚加撚糸におけるシボ外観の発現機構を解析して見出されたものであり、具体的には、所定の複屈折率及び単繊維間の複屈折率の差を有するマルチフィラメントからなる原糸に、30ヶ/m以上の交絡を付与した後、延伸仮撚加工することにより仮撚加工糸を製造している。   Furthermore, JP-A-1-52833 (Patent Document 4) manufactures a pre-twisted false twisted yarn that is simple and efficient in production, omitting the pre-twisting process, and is comparable to conventional pre-twisted false twisted yarn. A possible method is disclosed. The production method described in Patent Document 4 was found by analyzing the expression mechanism of the grain appearance in the pre-twisted twisted yarn, and specifically, between a predetermined birefringence and a single fiber. A false twisted yarn is produced by subjecting an original yarn composed of a multifilament having a difference in birefringence to entanglement of 30 pcs / m or more and then drawing a false twist.

このように延伸仮撚加工前に予め交絡を付与しておくことにより、仮撚加工時に、交絡部では捲縮クリンプの付与が妨げられ、一方交絡が付与されていない部分では、単糸の層転移が起こって捲縮クリンプが付与される。その結果、マルチフィラメントの長さ方向に捲縮クリンプ形態が変化した仮撚加工糸が得られ、同仮撚加工糸を用いて織編物を織編成することにより、織編物に凹凸のあるシボ外観が発現するとしている。
特開2000−336538号公報 特開昭54−88337号公報 特開昭55−67025号公報 特開平1−52833号公報
In this way, by providing entanglement in advance before drawing false twisting, at the time of false twisting, the provision of crimped crimps is prevented at the entangled part, while at the part where no entanglement is provided, a single yarn layer Metastasis occurs and crimps are applied. As a result, a false twisted yarn having a crimped crimp shape changed in the length direction of the multifilament is obtained. By knitting the knitted fabric using the false twisted yarn, the woven / knitted fabric has an uneven texture Is supposed to develop.
JP 2000-336538 A JP 54-88337 A JP-A-55-67025 JP-A-1-52833

しかるに、前記特許文献1に記載されている部分融着仮撚加工糸は、濃色性を示す融着部と淡色性を示す非融着部とが糸条長手方向に交互に存在するため斑感は得られるものの、糸条に太細斑を付与した後に仮撚数が非常に多い仮撚加工が施されるため、織編物を織成又は編成した際に風合いが硬く、フクラミ感に欠けるといった欠点があった。   However, the partially fused false twisted yarn described in the above-mentioned Patent Document 1 has uneven spots because fused portions exhibiting dark color and non-fused portions exhibiting light color exist alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Although a feeling can be obtained, since a false twisting process with a very large number of false twists is applied after applying thick and thin spots to the yarn, the texture is hard when weaving or knitting the knitted or knitted fabric, and the feeling of fluffiness is lacking There was a drawback.

また、前記特許文献2に記載されている強撚調加工糸は、実撚風合いを強調したことにより、嵩高性を有する部分(捲縮部)が実質的に存在していない。このため、同加工糸を用いて得られる織編物も、風合いが硬く、フクラミ感に欠ける製品となっていた。   Further, the strongly twisted processed yarn described in Patent Document 2 has substantially no bulky portion (crimped portion) due to emphasis on the actual twisted texture. For this reason, the woven or knitted fabric obtained by using the processed yarn has also been a product having a hard texture and lacking a feeling of fluffiness.

更に、前記特許文献3に記載されている実撚調仮撚加工糸は、前述のように、織編物にフクラミ感を付与するとともに、実撚部を有することからハリコシ感の付与も期待できる。しかし、この特許文献3では未延伸糸に仮撚加工が行われているため、仮撚加工糸における未解撚部分と過解撚部分との糸形態差が顕著となり、織編物の表面で未解撚部分が欠点となりやすく、製品の外観が損なわれるといった不具合があった。   Furthermore, as described above, the real twisted false twisted yarn described in Patent Document 3 gives a feeling of fluffiness to the woven or knitted fabric and also has a real twist part, so that it can be expected to give a sense of elasticity. However, in this Patent Document 3, since false twisting is performed on undrawn yarn, the difference in yarn form between the untwisted portion and the overwound twisted portion in the false twisted yarn becomes significant, and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is not yet. There was a problem that the untwisted portion was liable to be a defect and the appearance of the product was impaired.

更にまた、前記特許文献4に記載されている先撚調仮撚加工糸は、前述のように、凹凸のあるシボ外観を有する織編物を得られるものの、同仮撚加工糸に実撚部が存在しないために、ハリコシ感、シャリ感に欠ける織編物となるという問題があった。   Furthermore, as described above, the pre-twisted false twisted yarn described in Patent Document 4 can obtain a woven or knitted fabric having an uneven texture, but the false twisted yarn has a real twist portion. Since it does not exist, there is a problem that the knitted or knitted fabric lacks a sense of elasticity and sharpness.

本発明は上記種々の問題に鑑みてなされたものであって、その具体的な目的は、仮撚加撚方向の撚り及び仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向の撚りを有する実撚部と嵩高の捲縮部と含んでおり、適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感、フクラミ感、及びストレッチ性を発現する織編物を提供可能な仮撚加工糸を提供すること、更に、前記仮撚加工糸を含む織編物、及び、前記仮撚加工糸を高い生産性で製造可能な製造方法を提供することにある。   The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned various problems, and its specific purpose is to provide a real twist portion and a bulky body having a twist in the false twisting direction and a twist in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction. And providing a false twisted yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric that expresses an appropriate texture, sharpness, squeaky feeling, and stretchability, and further includes the false twisted yarn. It is providing the manufacturing method which can manufacture a woven / knitted fabric and the false twisted yarn with high productivity.

上記目的を達成するために、本発明により提供される仮撚加工糸は、基本的な構成として、熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸からなり、仮撚加撚方向の撚りを有する第1実撚部と、前記仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向の撚りを有する第2実撚部と、前記第1及び第2実撚部の実撚部間に形成され、仮撚捲縮を有する嵩高捲縮部と、を含んでなる仮撚加工糸であって、前記第1及び第2実撚部の合計の平均実撚数(t/m)が6000/√T以上10000/√T以下(但し、Tはトータル繊度(デシテックス))であることを最も主要な特徴とするものである。   In order to achieve the above object, the false twisted yarn provided by the present invention is basically composed of a thermoplastic multifilament yarn, and a first actual twist portion having a twist in the false twist direction, A second real twist portion having a twist in a direction opposite to the false twist twist direction, and a bulky crimp portion having a false twist crimp formed between the real twist portions of the first and second real twist portions. , Wherein the total average twist (t / m) of the first and second real twist parts is 6000 / √T or more and 10,000 / √T or less (where T is The main feature is that it is a total fineness (decitex).

本発明に係る前記仮撚加工糸は、前記第1及び第2実撚部の前記仮撚加工糸全体に占める長さ方向の割合が80%以上であることが好ましく、更に、JIS L 1013に基づく伸張弾性率が20%以上であることが好ましい。
また、本発明にあっては、前記構成を備えた仮撚加工糸を含む織編物が提供される。
In the false twisted yarn according to the present invention, the length ratio of the first and second real twist portions in the entire false twisted yarn is preferably 80% or more. Furthermore, in JIS L 1013 It is preferable that the tensile elastic modulus based on it is 20% or more.
Moreover, in this invention, the woven / knitted fabric containing the false twisted yarn provided with the said structure is provided.

更に、本発明により提供される仮撚加工糸の製造方法は、基本的な構成として、熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に交絡数が70ヶ/m以上で、かつ平均交絡長が2mm以上7mm以下の交絡を付与すること、及び、交絡を付与した前記熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に、同熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸の(仮撚融着温度−20℃)以上仮撚融着温度以下の熱セット温度で仮撚加工を行うことを含むことを最も主要な特徴とするものである。   Furthermore, the manufacturing method of the false twisted yarn provided by the present invention has, as a basic configuration, entanglement in which the thermoplastic multifilament yarn has an entanglement number of 70 pieces / m or more and an average entanglement length of 2 mm or more and 7 mm or less. And twisting the thermoplastic multifilament yarn with entanglement at a heat set temperature not lower than the false twist fusion temperature of the thermoplastic multifilament yarn and not higher than the false twist fusion temperature. The main feature is to include processing.

本発明に係る仮撚加工糸は、仮撚加撚方向の撚り及び仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向の撚りを有する第1及び第2実撚部の合計の平均実撚数が、6000/√T以上10000/√T以下、好ましくは6500/√T以上8500/√T以下となるものである。ここで、第1及び第2実撚部の合計の平均実撚数とは、第1及び第2実撚部の実撚数と実撚部比率とを用いて下記式から算出される。
平均実撚数=t1×r1/100+t2×r2/100
なお、t1は、仮撚方向と同方向の実撚数(t/m)であり、r1は、仮撚方向と同方向の実撚部比率(%)である。また、t2は、仮撚方向と逆方向の実撚数(t/m)であり、r2は、仮撚方向と逆方向の実撚部比率(%)である。ここで、実撚部比率とは、仮撚加工糸の測定長さに対する第1又は第2実撚部の測定長さの比率を指している。
In the false twisted yarn according to the present invention, the total average number of actual twists of the first and second real twist portions having a twist in the false twist direction and a twist in the reverse direction of the false twist direction is 6000 / √T to 10000 / √T, preferably 6500 / √T to 8500 / √T. Here, the total average actual twist number of the first and second actual twist parts is calculated from the following formula using the actual twist number and the actual twist part ratio of the first and second actual twist parts.
Average actual twist number = t1 × r1 / 100 + t2 × r2 / 100
In addition, t1 is a real twist number (t / m) in the same direction as the false twist direction, and r1 is a real twist part ratio (%) in the same direction as the false twist direction. Further, t2 is the actual twist number (t / m) in the direction opposite to the false twist direction, and r2 is the actual twist ratio (%) in the direction opposite to the false twist direction. Here, the actual twisted portion ratio refers to the ratio of the measured length of the first or second actual twisted portion to the measured length of the false twisted yarn.

本発明者等が鋭意研究及び検討を重ねた結果、前記式で算出される平均実撚数が前記所定の範囲内の値を有する仮撚加工糸であれば、織編物を織編成した際に、適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感、フクラミ感を併せ持ち、更にストレッチ性にも優れた織編物を得ることが可能となることが明らかとなった。   As a result of intensive studies and examinations by the present inventors, if the average actual twist number calculated by the above formula is a false twisted yarn having a value within the predetermined range, the knitted fabric is knitted. It was revealed that it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having an appropriate feeling of texture, elasticity and squeakiness, and also excellent stretch properties.

また、本発明の仮撚加工糸は、第1及び第2実撚部の前記仮撚加工糸全体に占める長さ方向の割合が80%以上、好ましくは85%以上であることにより、織編物を得たときにハリコシ感をより確実に発現させることが可能となる。更には、例えば仮撚捲縮によるフカツキ感が発現して織編物の品質が低下するといった不具合の発生を防ぐことも可能となる。   In addition, the false twisted yarn of the present invention is a knitted or knitted fabric because the ratio of the length direction of the first and second real twisted portions to the entire false twisted yarn is 80% or more, preferably 85% or more. It becomes possible to express a harshness feeling more reliably when obtained. Furthermore, for example, it is possible to prevent the occurrence of problems such as a feeling of flickering due to false twist crimps and deterioration of the quality of the woven or knitted fabric.

更に、前記仮撚加工糸におけるJIS L 1013に基づく伸張弾性率が20%以上、好ましくは25%以上であることにより、織編物を織編成したときにより適切なフクラミ感を得ることが可能となる。   Furthermore, when the tensile elastic modulus of the false twisted yarn based on JIS L 1013 is 20% or more, preferably 25% or more, it is possible to obtain a more appropriate feeling of flaming when the woven or knitted fabric is knitted. .

そして、上述のような構成を備えた仮撚加工糸を含む本発明の織編物は、従来の仮撚加工糸では得ることができなかった適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感、フクラミ感を併せ持ち、ストレッチ性にも優れた織編物となる。   And, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention including the false twisted yarn having the above-described configuration has a moderate graininess, a harshness feeling, and a flaming feeling that cannot be obtained with a conventional false twisted yarn. It becomes a woven or knitted fabric with excellent properties.

次に、本発明に係る仮撚加工糸の製造方法においては、先ず、熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に対して例えばエアノズルを用いて間欠的に交絡処理を行って、交絡数が70ヶ/m以上で、かつ平均交絡長が2mm以上7mm以下の交絡を付与する。これにより、マルチフィラメント糸に適切な集束性を与えることができ、下記の仮撚加工を行った際に十分な実撚が得られる。   Next, in the method for producing false twisted yarn according to the present invention, first, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn is intermittently entangled using, for example, an air nozzle, and the number of entanglements is 70 / m or more. In addition, confounding having an average confounding length of 2 mm or more and 7 mm or less is provided. Thereby, suitable convergence can be given to multifilament yarn, and sufficient real twist is obtained when the following false twist processing is performed.

また、熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に前記交絡を付与した後、同熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に、(仮撚融着温度−20℃)以上仮撚融着温度以下の熱セット温度で仮撚加工を行う。このとき、マルチフィラメント糸の前記交絡が付与された部分では、交絡が付与されていないその他の部分と比較して集束性が高いため、交絡を付与された部分を起点として、設定加撚数以上の撚りが付与される。この結果、解撚領域において加撚数以上に付与された撚りは完全に解撚されることなく、仮撚加撚方向の撚りが残留することにより第1実撚部は形成される。また、交絡が付与されていないその他の部分では、交絡が付与された部分とは逆に、設定加撚数よりも少ない撚りが付与される。この結果、解撚領域において、仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向(解撚方向)の撚りがかけられて第2実撚部が形成されるとともに、第1実撚部と第2実撚部との間には、撚りが解かれて細かい仮撚捲縮が付与された嵩高捲縮部が形成される。このように所定の条件で交絡処理を行った後に、所定の熱セット温度下で仮撚加工を行うことにより、本発明に係る前記仮撚加工糸を安定して製造することができる。なお、本発明でいう仮撚融着温度とは、熱セット温度を上げていったときに単繊維に融着が発生する温度をいう。   Further, after the entanglement is imparted to the thermoplastic multifilament yarn, false twisting is performed on the thermoplastic multifilament yarn at a heat setting temperature not lower than the false twist fusion temperature (-20 ° C.) and not higher than the false twist fusion temperature. . At this time, the portion of the multifilament yarn that has been entangled has higher convergence than other portions that have not been entangled. Is provided. As a result, the first actual twisted portion is formed by the twist imparted in the untwisting region beyond the number of twists, and the twist in the false twist twist direction remains without being completely untwisted. Moreover, in the other part to which the entanglement is not given, a twist smaller than the set twist number is given, contrary to the part to which the entanglement is given. As a result, in the untwisting region, twisting in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction (untwisting direction) is applied to form the second actual twisted portion, and the first actual twisted portion and the second actual twisted portion. Between the two, a bulky crimped portion is formed in which the twist is unwound and a fine false twist crimp is imparted. Thus, the false twisted yarn according to the present invention can be stably produced by performing false twisting at a predetermined heat set temperature after performing the entanglement process under the predetermined conditions. In addition, the false twist fusion temperature referred to in the present invention refers to a temperature at which fusion occurs in a single fiber when the heat setting temperature is raised.

以下、本発明を実施するための最良の形態について図面を参照しながら詳細に説明する。ここで、図1は本発明に係る仮撚加工糸の一例を模式的に示す模式図である。
図1に示した本実施形態の仮撚加工糸10は、熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸からなり、仮撚加撚方向の撚りを有する第1実撚部1と、前記仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向の撚りを有する第2実撚部2と、仮撚捲縮を有する嵩高捲縮部3とを備えている。
Hereinafter, the best mode for carrying out the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. Here, FIG. 1 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of false twisted yarn according to the present invention.
The false twisted yarn 10 of the present embodiment shown in FIG. 1 is made of a thermoplastic multifilament yarn, and the first actual twisted portion 1 having a twist in the false twist direction is opposite to the false twist direction. It has the 2nd real twist part 2 which has the twist of a direction, and the bulky crimp part 3 which has a false twist crimp.

前記第1実撚部1は、マルチフィラメント糸に仮撚加工を行ったときに、交絡が付与された部分を起点として設定加撚数以上の撚りが付与されることにより、解撚領域において未解撚部分として仮撚加撚方向と同じ方向の撚りをかけた形態が保持されて形成されたものであり、マルチフィラメント糸の単繊維が揃った集束構造を有している部分である。   When the first actual twisted portion 1 is false twisted on the multifilament yarn, the first twisted portion 1 is not twisted in the untwisted region by applying a twist equal to or greater than the set number of twists starting from the portion where the entanglement is imparted. The untwisted portion is formed by holding a twisted state in the same direction as the false twisting direction, and is a portion having a converging structure in which single fibers of multifilament yarns are aligned.

前記第2実撚部2は、マルチフィラメント糸が全体として集束した前記第1実撚部1とは反対方向の撚りを有している部分である。この第2実撚部2には、仮撚加工によって付与される仮撚捲縮が混在している部分もある。   The second actual twisted portion 2 is a portion having a twist in a direction opposite to that of the first actual twisted portion 1 where the multifilament yarns are converged as a whole. This 2nd real twist part 2 also has the part in which the false twist crimp provided by false twist process is mixed.

前記嵩高捲縮部3は、マルチフィラメント糸が実質的に集束せず、開繊状態で仮撚捲縮を有する部分であり、図1に示したように第1実撚部1と第2実撚部2との間に形成され、またその他に第1実撚部1同士の間や第2実撚部2同士の間のような実撚部間にも形成されることがある。この嵩高捲縮部3は、以下で説明するような仮撚加工により仮撚捲縮が形成された部分だけでなく、交絡処理により交絡されて仮撚捲縮が形成された部分も含む。   The bulky crimped portion 3 is a portion in which the multifilament yarn is not substantially converged and has a false twist crimp in the opened state, and as shown in FIG. 1, the first actual twisted portion 1 and the second actual twisted portion 1 It may be formed between the twisted portions 2 and may also be formed between the actual twisted portions such as between the first actual twisted portions 1 or between the second actual twisted portions 2. The bulky crimped portion 3 includes not only a portion where a false twist crimp is formed by false twisting as described below, but also a portion where a false twist crimp is formed by entanglement processing.

本実施形態の仮撚加工糸10において、第1及び第2実撚部1,2の合計の平均実撚数(t/m)は、6000/√T以上10000/√T以下であることが必要であり、特に前記合計平均実撚数は6500/√T以上8500/√T以下となることが好ましい。前記合計平均実撚数が6000/√T未満では、実撚構造の形態安定性が悪くなり、織編物を織編成したときに織編物のハリコシ感が低下する。一方、10000/√Tを超えると、実撚構造は安定化するものの、織編物と得たときに欠点のように見える部位が多く存在して製品の外観が損なわれ、またフクラミ感にも欠けるといった不具合が生じる。従って、仮撚加工糸10の第1及び第2実撚部1,2の合計平均実撚数が上記範囲内にあれば、織編物を織編成したときに、織編物に適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感、フクラミ感を同時に付与することができ、更に優れたストレッチ性も併せ持たせることができる。   In the false twisted yarn 10 of this embodiment, the total average actual twist number (t / m) of the first and second actual twisted portions 1 and 2 is 6000 / √T or more and 10000 / √T or less. In particular, the total average actual twist number is preferably 6500 / √T or more and 8500 / √T or less. When the total average actual twist number is less than 6000 / √T, the shape stability of the actual twist structure is deteriorated, and the harshness of the woven or knitted fabric is lowered when the woven or knitted fabric is knitted. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10000 / √T, the actual twisted structure will be stabilized, but there will be many parts that look like defects when obtained with woven or knitted fabric, and the appearance of the product will be impaired, and the feeling of flaming will also be lacking. Such a problem occurs. Therefore, if the total average actual twist number of the first and second actual twisted portions 1 and 2 of the false twisted yarn 10 is within the above range, when the woven or knitted fabric is woven, A firm feeling and a squeaky feeling can be imparted at the same time, and further excellent stretch properties can be provided.

また、本実施形態の仮撚加工糸10では、第1及び第2実撚部1,2の仮撚加工糸10全体に占める長さ方向の割合が80%以上、好ましくは85%以上である。第1及び第2実撚部1,2における長さ方向の比率が80%未満の場合では、織編物を織製又は編成したときに、織編物のハリコシ感が低下し、更に仮撚捲縮によるフカツキ感が発現しやすくなるため、製品の品質低下を招く恐れがある。従って、第1及び第2実撚部1,2の長さ方向の比率が80%以上、更には85%以上であれば、織編物としたときにフカツキ感の発現を防ぎ、ハリコシ感を十分に発現させることができるため、良質の製品を得ることが可能となる。なお、織編物の外観及び風合いを考慮すると、第1及び第2実撚部1,2の長さ方向の比率は95%以下であることが好ましい。   Moreover, in the false twisted yarn 10 of this embodiment, the ratio of the length direction to the whole false twisted yarn 10 of the 1st and 2nd real twist parts 1 and 2 is 80% or more, Preferably it is 85% or more. . In the case where the ratio in the length direction of the first and second actual twisted portions 1 and 2 is less than 80%, when the woven or knitted fabric is woven or knitted, the harshness of the woven or knitted fabric decreases, and the false twist crimp further occurs. A flickering feeling due to is likely to occur, which may lead to a decrease in product quality. Therefore, if the ratio in the length direction of the first and second actual twisted portions 1 and 2 is 80% or more, and further 85% or more, the occurrence of a fluffy feeling is prevented when a woven or knitted fabric is formed, and the feeling of elasticity is sufficient. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a high-quality product. In consideration of the appearance and texture of the woven or knitted fabric, the ratio in the length direction of the first and second actual twisted portions 1 and 2 is preferably 95% or less.

更に、本実施形態の仮撚加工糸10は、JIS L 1013に基づく伸張弾性率が20%以上、好ましくは25%以上となる。この伸張弾性率が20%未満の場合では、織編物を織製又は編成したときにフクラミ感を殆ど得ることができないが、伸張弾性率が20%以上、更には25%以上であれば、適切なフクラミ感を織編物に付与することができる。なお、織編物への適度なフクラミ感の付与を考慮すると、前記伸張弾性率は40%以下であることが好ましい。   Furthermore, the false twisted yarn 10 of the present embodiment has a tensile elastic modulus based on JIS L 1013 of 20% or more, preferably 25% or more. When the tensile elastic modulus is less than 20%, almost no flaming feeling can be obtained when the knitted or knitted fabric is woven or knitted. However, if the elastic modulus is 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more, it is appropriate. It is possible to impart a soft feeling to the woven or knitted fabric. In consideration of imparting an appropriate flaky feeling to the woven or knitted fabric, the tensile elastic modulus is preferably 40% or less.

本発明において、仮撚加工糸10を構成する熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸の材質は特に限定されるものではなく、ポリエステル繊維、ポリアクリロニトリル繊維、ポリアミド繊維、アセテート繊維等の一般的な熱可塑性繊維を用いることが可能である。また、個々の構成フィラメントの断面形状、全繊度、繊度斑、染色特性等も特に限定されず、目的等に応じて任意に設定することができる。更に、必要に応じて各種添加物等を含むことも可能である。   In the present invention, the material of the thermoplastic multifilament yarn constituting the false twisted yarn 10 is not particularly limited, and general thermoplastic fibers such as polyester fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber, polyamide fiber, and acetate fiber are used. It is possible. Moreover, the cross-sectional shape, total fineness, fineness unevenness, dyeing characteristics, etc. of individual constituent filaments are not particularly limited, and can be arbitrarily set according to the purpose and the like. Furthermore, it is possible to include various additives as required.

なお、本実施形態の仮撚加工糸10は、1本の熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸から構成されている場合について説明しているが、本発明はこれに限定されず、2本以上の熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸から構成されていても良い。本発明の仮撚加工糸が2本以上の複数のマルチフィラメント糸からなる場合は、例えばポリエステル繊維同士等といった同じ材質のマルチフィラメント糸同士の組み合わせ、又は、ポリエステル繊維とアセテート繊維等といった材質が異なるマルチフィラメント糸の組み合わせで仮撚加工糸を構成することができる。特に、本発明の仮撚加工糸を材質の異なる複数のマルチフィラメント糸で構成する場合、用いる繊維の材質や構成割合に応じて織編物の風合いや製品外観を様々に変化させることが可能となり、様々な製品への応用が期待できる。   In addition, although the false twisted yarn 10 of the present embodiment has been described with respect to a case where the false twisted yarn 10 is composed of one thermoplastic multifilament yarn, the present invention is not limited to this, and two or more thermoplastic multifilament yarns are used. You may be comprised from the filament yarn. When the false twisted yarn of the present invention is composed of two or more multifilament yarns, for example, a combination of multifilament yarns of the same material such as polyester fibers, or materials such as polyester fibers and acetate fibers are different. A false twisted yarn can be constituted by a combination of multifilament yarns. In particular, when the false twisted yarn of the present invention is composed of a plurality of multifilament yarns of different materials, the texture and product appearance of the woven or knitted fabric can be variously changed according to the material and composition ratio of the fibers used. Application to various products can be expected.

そして、上述のような本実施形態の仮撚加工糸10を用いて得られる織編物は、従来の仮撚加工糸では得ることができなかった適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感、フクラミ感を併せ持ち、ストレッチ性にも優れた織編物となる。なお、前記仮撚加工糸10を含む織編物において、仮撚加工糸の混率や織物組織又は編物組織等に関しては、目的の風合いや、製品外観が得られる範囲で任意に選択することができ、例えば前記仮撚加工糸10を単独で用いて織編物を構成したり、又は、前記仮撚加工糸10を織編物の一部に用いて交編物或いは交織物を構成したりすることができる。   And the woven or knitted fabric obtained using the false twisted yarn 10 of the present embodiment as described above has a moderate texture, harshness, and fluffy feel that could not be obtained with a conventional false twisted yarn, A woven or knitted fabric with excellent stretchability. In the woven or knitted fabric including the false twisted yarn 10, the mixing ratio of the false twisted yarn and the woven or knitted fabric can be arbitrarily selected within a range in which a desired texture and product appearance can be obtained. For example, the false twisted yarn 10 can be used alone to form a woven or knitted fabric, or the false twisted yarn 10 can be used as a part of the woven or knitted fabric to form a knitted or woven fabric.

また、本発明では、前記仮撚加工糸10を含んだ撚糸を用いて織編物を織編成しても良い。この撚糸としては、前記仮撚加工糸10を撚糸したもの、前記仮撚加工糸10同士を合撚したもの、又は前記仮撚加工糸10と他の繊維とを合撚したもの等を用いることができる。例えば、前記仮撚加工糸10と他の繊維とを合撚することにより、仮撚加工糸10の特徴だけでなく他繊維の特徴も併せ持つ織編物を得ることが可能となる。具体的な例としては、前記仮撚加工糸10と、天然繊維や再生繊維等のような他繊維とが合撚されていることにより、シボ感やハリコシ感といった仮撚加工糸10による特徴の他に、当該他繊維が本来有している特徴、例えば、光沢感、清涼感、シャリ感、ウェット感等といった風合いを織編物に付与することができる。また、合撚による撚り効果でハリコシ感に富んだ織編物を得ることが可能となる。   In the present invention, the knitted or knitted fabric may be knitted using a twisted yarn including the false twisted yarn 10. As the twisted yarn, a twisted yarn of the false twisted yarn 10, a twisted yarn of the false twisted yarns 10 or a twisted yarn of the false twisted yarn 10 and another fiber, or the like is used. Can do. For example, by twisting the false twisted yarn 10 and other fibers, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having not only the features of the false twisted yarn 10 but also the features of other fibers. As a specific example, the false twisted yarn 10 and other fibers such as natural fibers and regenerated fibers are twisted together, so that the characteristics of the false twisted yarn 10 such as a feeling of warping and a feeling of harshness are obtained. In addition, it is possible to give the woven or knitted fabric a characteristic that the other fiber originally has, for example, a texture such as a glossy feeling, a refreshing feeling, a sharp feeling, and a wet feeling. In addition, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric rich in a sense of elasticity due to the twisting effect of the twisting.

なお、上述の合撚に使用する他繊維としては、例えば、綿、麻、絹等の天然繊維、レーヨン等の再生繊維、アセテート等の半合成繊維、又はポリエステル繊維等の熱可塑性繊維等を用いることができる。また、それぞれの繊維を構成する単繊維の断面形状は特に限定されるものではなく、得られる織編物の風合いや光沢等を考慮して、菊型、円形、扁平、Y字等の糸断面形状を選択すればよい。また、前記他繊維の単繊維繊度、染色特性等についても特に限定されない。更にこの場合、撚糸の撚り方向及び合撚数に関しても特に限定されるものではなく、構成糸条の本数、前記仮撚加工糸10の混率、撚り数等は、目的の風合いや織編物外観が得られる範囲で適宜設定すれば良い。   In addition, as other fibers used for the above-mentioned twisting, for example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, or thermoplastic fibers such as polyester fibers are used. be able to. In addition, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting each fiber is not particularly limited, and the cross-sectional shape of the yarn such as chrysanthemum, circular, flat, Y-shaped is taken into consideration in consideration of the texture and gloss of the resulting woven or knitted fabric Should be selected. Further, the single fiber fineness and dyeing characteristics of the other fibers are not particularly limited. Further, in this case, the twist direction and the number of twists of the twisted yarn are not particularly limited, and the number of constituent yarns, the mixing ratio of the false twisted yarn 10, the number of twists, etc., have the desired texture and the appearance of the woven or knitted fabric. What is necessary is just to set suitably in the range obtained.

次に、上述した本実施形態の仮撚加工糸10を製造する方法の一例について、図2を参照しながら説明する。ここで、図2は、本発明の仮撚加工糸を製造する装置の構成を概略的に示す概略図である。
図2に示した製造装置11は、先ず、仮撚加工糸10を構成する延伸された熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸を供給糸12として、第1糸条供給ローラー13を介して、交絡エアノズル14に所定のオーバーフィード率で供給する。交絡エアノズル14では、連続的に供給される熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に対して間欠的に交絡処理を行って、交絡数が70ヶ/m以上で、かつ平均交絡長が2mm以上7mm以下の交絡を付与する。
Next, an example of a method for manufacturing the false twisted yarn 10 of the present embodiment described above will be described with reference to FIG. Here, FIG. 2 is a schematic view schematically showing a configuration of an apparatus for producing the false twisted yarn of the present invention.
The manufacturing apparatus 11 shown in FIG. 2 first uses a stretched thermoplastic multifilament yarn constituting the false twisted yarn 10 as a supply yarn 12 and supplies it to the entangled air nozzle 14 via a first yarn supply roller 13. Supply at an overfeed rate of. The entangled air nozzle 14 intermittently entangles thermoplastic multifilament yarns that are continuously supplied to entangle the number of entanglements of 70 pcs / m or more and an average entanglement length of 2 mm to 7 mm. Give.

この交絡エアノズル14による交絡処理において、マルチフィラメント糸に付与する交絡の交絡数が70ヶ/m未満となる場合は、繊維間の集束性が低く、仮撚加工を行った後に得られる仮撚加工糸の平均実撚数が、前述した範囲の下限である6000/√Tよりも少なくなる結果、織編物において適切なハリコシ感が得られず、またシボ感も低くなる。   In the entanglement process by the entanglement air nozzle 14, when the number of entanglement to be applied to the multifilament yarn is less than 70 / m, the convergence property between the fibers is low, and the false twist process obtained after the false twist process is performed. As a result of the average number of actual twists of the yarn being less than 6000 / √T, which is the lower limit of the above-mentioned range, an appropriate harsh feeling cannot be obtained in the woven or knitted fabric, and the wrinkled feeling is also lowered.

また、前記交絡処理において、マルチフィラメント糸に付与する交絡の平均交絡長が2mm未満の場合、その後に仮撚加工を行った際に第1実撚部及び第2実撚部を安定して形成することが難しくなる。一方、平均交絡長が7mmを越えると、第1実撚部及び第2実撚部を適切に形成することができず、前記仮撚加工糸10を得ることができなくなる。このため、マルチフィラメント糸には、2mm以上7mm以下の平均交絡長で交絡を付与する必要があり、これにより、以下の仮撚加工にて第1実撚部及び第2実撚部を適切に形成することができ、その結果、シボ感やハリコシ感に優れた織編物を得ることが可能となる。   Moreover, in the said entanglement process, when the average entanglement length of the entanglement given to a multifilament yarn is less than 2 mm, a 1st actual twist part and a 2nd actual twist part are formed stably when performing a false twist process after that It becomes difficult to do. On the other hand, if the average entanglement length exceeds 7 mm, the first actual twisted portion and the second actual twisted portion cannot be appropriately formed, and the false twisted yarn 10 cannot be obtained. For this reason, the multifilament yarn needs to be entangled with an average entanglement length of 2 mm or more and 7 mm or less, whereby the first actual twisted portion and the second actual twisted portion are appropriately formed by the following false twisting process. As a result, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent feeling of crease and harshness.

前記交絡エアノズル14で所定の条件で交絡処理が施されたマルチフィラメント糸は、次に、第2糸条供給ローラー15と第1引取ローラー18との間で仮撚加工が行われる。第2糸条供給ローラー15と第1引取ローラー18との間には、第1ヒーター(接触ヒーター)16と仮撚スピンドル17とが配されている。   The multifilament yarn subjected to the entanglement process under the predetermined condition by the entanglement air nozzle 14 is then subjected to false twisting between the second yarn supply roller 15 and the first take-up roller 18. A first heater (contact heater) 16 and a false twist spindle 17 are arranged between the second yarn supply roller 15 and the first take-up roller 18.

第2糸条供給ローラー15を介して所定のオーバーフィード率で仮撚加工領域に供給されたマルチフィラメント糸は、仮撚スピンドル17で所定方向に回転が与えられることにより、第2糸条供給ローラー15と仮撚スピンドル17との間(即ち、加撚領域)で仮撚加撚方向の撚りが掛けられるとともに、第1ヒーター16により、熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸の(仮撚融着温度−20℃)以上仮撚融着温度以下の温度で熱処理が行われる。   When the multifilament yarn supplied to the false twisting region at a predetermined overfeed rate via the second yarn supply roller 15 is rotated in a predetermined direction by the false twist spindle 17, the second yarn supply roller 15 and false twisting spindle 17 (that is, twisting region), the twist in the false twisting direction is applied, and the first heater 16 causes the thermoplastic multifilament yarn to have a (false twist fusion temperature of −20 ° C. ) The heat treatment is performed at a temperature not higher than the false twist fusion temperature.

続いて、マルチフィラメント糸は、前記仮撚スピンドル17を通過して、仮撚スピンドル17と第1引取ローラー18との間(即ち、解撚領域)で仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向の撚りが掛けられて解撚作用を受ける。この一連の操作により、マルチフィラメント糸は、他の部分よりも集束性が高い交絡付与されている部分では、交絡部を起点として設定加撚数以上の撚りが付与された状態で熱セットされるとともに、解撚領域で未解撚部分となり仮撚加工糸の前記第1実撚部1となる。また、第1実撚部が未解撚部分となることからその他の部分では、仮撚加撚方向の撚りが解かれて仮撚捲縮を有する嵩高捲縮部3と、加撚数以上の解撚作用を受けて仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向の撚りが掛けられた第2実撚部2とが形成される。   Subsequently, the multifilament yarn passes through the false twist spindle 17 and twists in the direction opposite to the false twist direction between the false twist spindle 17 and the first take-up roller 18 (that is, the untwisting region). Is applied to receive untwisting action. As a result of this series of operations, the multifilament yarn is heat-set in a state where the entanglement is higher than the other portions and the twist of the set number of twists or more is applied starting from the entanglement portion. At the same time, it becomes an untwisted portion in the untwisted region and becomes the first actual twisted portion 1 of the false twisted yarn. In addition, since the first actual twisted portion becomes an untwisted portion, in other portions, the bulky crimped portion 3 having a false twist crimped by untwisting in the false twist twist direction and the number of twists or more A second actual twisted portion 2 is formed which is subjected to a twisting operation in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction after receiving the untwisting action.

このように所定の交絡数及び平均交絡長の交絡が付与されたマルチフィラメント糸に対して、所定の熱セット温度で仮撚加工を行うことによって、第1及び第2実撚部1,2の合計の平均実撚数が前述のような所定範囲内の値となり、更に、第1及び第2実撚部1,2の長さ方向の比率が80%以上となる前記仮撚加工糸10を得ることができる。   Thus, by performing false twisting at a predetermined heat set temperature for the multifilament yarn to which the predetermined number of entanglements and the average entanglement length are entangled, the first and second actual twist portions 1 and 2 The false twisted yarn 10 in which the total average actual twist number is a value within the predetermined range as described above, and the ratio in the length direction of the first and second actual twist portions 1 and 2 is 80% or more. Obtainable.

更に、図2に示した製造装置11においては、第1引取ローラー18の後段に、前記仮撚加工が施されたマルチフィラメント糸(仮撚加工糸)に弛緩熱セット処理を行う第2ヒーター(非接触ヒーター)19が配されている。この第2ヒーター19で仮撚加工糸に弛緩熱セット処理を行うことにより、同仮撚加工糸の顕在トルク軽減等を行うことができる。なお、この第2ヒーター19は省略することができ、目的等に応じて第2ヒーターの設置の有無を選択することができる。   Furthermore, in the manufacturing apparatus 11 shown in FIG. 2, a second heater that performs a relaxation heat setting process on the multifilament yarn (false twisted yarn) that has been subjected to the false twisting process after the first take-up roller 18 ( A non-contact heater) 19 is arranged. By performing the relaxation heat setting process on the false twisted yarn with the second heater 19, it is possible to reduce the apparent torque of the false twisted yarn. The second heater 19 can be omitted, and whether or not the second heater is installed can be selected according to the purpose or the like.

その後、第2ヒーター19で熱セット処理を受けた仮撚加工糸は、第2引取ローラー20を経由して巻き取り部21で巻き取られる。以上のような工程を経ることにより、本発明に係る前記仮撚加工糸10を安定して製造することができる。なお、図2に示した製造装置11では、交絡エアノズル14により行われる交絡処理、第2糸条供給ローラー15と第1引取ローラー18との間で行われる仮撚加工、及び第2ヒーター19による弛緩熱セット処理が連続的に行われて、前記仮撚加工糸10を効率的に製造しているが、本発明はこれに限定されず、それぞれの処理及び加工を工程毎に分割して、各工程を別々に実施しても良い。   Thereafter, the false twisted yarn subjected to the heat setting process by the second heater 19 is taken up by the take-up unit 21 via the second take-up roller 20. By passing through the above processes, the false twisted yarn 10 according to the present invention can be manufactured stably. In the manufacturing apparatus 11 shown in FIG. 2, the entanglement process performed by the entanglement air nozzle 14, the false twisting performed between the second yarn supply roller 15 and the first take-up roller 18, and the second heater 19. Although the relaxation heat setting process is continuously performed to produce the false twisted yarn 10 efficiently, the present invention is not limited to this, and the respective processes and processes are divided for each process, You may implement each process separately.

以下、本発明について実施例及び比較例を挙げて、より具体的に説明する。なお、実施例及び比較例で得られた各仮撚加工糸における物性の測定及び評価は、以下の方法を用いて行われた。
(1)平均実撚数の測定方法
1mの糸条に3.6×10-3g/dtexの初荷重を付与して台紙に巻取り、マイクロスコープ(株式会社KEYENCE社製)にて各実撚部の撚角度を10点測定し、その平均値を算出して実撚数を求めた。なお、平均実撚数は、求めた実撚数と後述する実撚部比率とを用いて下記式から算出した。
平均実撚数=t1×r1/100+t2×r2/100
なお、上記式において、t1は仮撚方向と同方向の撚りを有する第1実撚部の実撚数(t/m)、t2は仮撚方向と逆方向の撚りを有する第2実撚部の実撚数(t/m)、r1は第1実撚部の実撚部比率(%)、r2は第2実撚部の実撚部比率(%)を示している。
(2)実撚部比率の測定方法
1mの糸条に3.6×10-3g/dtexの初荷重を付与して台紙に巻取り、マイクロスコープ(株式会社KEYENCE社製)にて第1及び第2実撚部の長さと、嵩高捲縮部の長さとを測定し、仮撚加工糸の全測定長に対する各実撚部の長さの比率を算出した。
(3)捲縮特性の測定方法
JIS L 1013に準拠して、各仮撚加工糸の伸張弾性率を捲縮特性として測定した。
(4)織編物の風合い評価方法
仮撚加工糸あるいは撚糸を製編織して、ハンドリング及び目視判定による織編物の風合い評価を行った。
(5)仮撚融着温度
仮撚オーバーフィード率2%、加工速度100m/分、仮撚数3000T/mに固定し、仮撚り温度を上げていき単繊維に融着が発生する温度を仮撚融着温度とした。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples and comparative examples. In addition, the measurement and evaluation of the physical property in each false twisted yarn obtained by the Example and the comparative example were performed using the following method.
(1) Measuring method of the average number of actual twists An initial load of 3.6 × 10 −3 g / dtex was applied to a 1 m yarn and wound on a mount, and each actual value was measured with a microscope (manufactured by KEYENCE Inc.). Ten twist angles of the twisted part were measured, and the average value was calculated to determine the actual number of twists. In addition, the average actual twist number was calculated from the following formula using the obtained actual twist number and the actual twist part ratio described later.
Average actual twist number = t1 × r1 / 100 + t2 × r2 / 100
In the above formula, t1 is the actual number of twists (t / m) of the first real twist part having the same twist as the false twist direction, and t2 is the second real twist part having the twist opposite to the false twist direction. The actual number of twists (t / m), r1 represents the actual twisted portion ratio (%) of the first actual twisted portion, and r2 represents the actual twisted portion ratio (%) of the second actual twisted portion.
(2) Measuring method of actual twist ratio The initial load of 3.6 × 10 −3 g / dtex was applied to a 1 m yarn, wound on a mount, and first measured with a microscope (manufactured by KEYENCE Inc.). And the length of the 2nd real twist part and the length of the bulky crimp part were measured, and the ratio of the length of each real twist part to the total measurement length of false twisted yarn was computed.
(3) Method for measuring crimp characteristics Based on JIS L 1013, the tensile elastic modulus of each false twisted yarn was measured as the crimp characteristics.
(4) Texture evaluation method of woven or knitted fabric False twisted yarn or twisted yarn was knitted and woven, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric was evaluated by handling and visual judgment.
(5) False twisting temperature The false twist overfeed rate is 2%, the processing speed is 100 m / min, the false twist is 3000 T / m, the false twist temperature is raised, and the temperature at which the single fiber is fused is temporarily set. The twist fusion temperature was used.

(実施例1)
図2に示した製造装置11から第2ヒーター19及び第2引取ローラー20を省略した装置を用いて、以下のようにして仮撚加工糸を製造した。
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント延伸糸(84dtex/36フィラメント)を供給糸12として、第1糸条供給ローラー13を介して、交絡エアノズル14に供給し、エア圧0.5MPa、オーバーフィード率(以下、OFと略記)4%で交絡を付与した。交絡処理後におけるマルチフィラメント糸の交絡数は81ケ/mで、平均交絡長は4.1mmであった。仮撚融着温度は、243℃であった。
Example 1
Using a device in which the second heater 19 and the second take-up roller 20 are omitted from the production device 11 shown in FIG. 2, false twisted yarn was produced as follows.
Polyester multifilament drawn yarn (84 dtex / 36 filament) is supplied to the entangled air nozzle 14 through the first yarn supply roller 13 as the supply yarn 12, and the air pressure is 0.5 MPa, the overfeed rate (hereinafter abbreviated as OF). ) Confounding was given at 4%. The number of entanglements of the multifilament yarn after the entanglement treatment was 81 pcs / m, and the average entanglement length was 4.1 mm. The false twist fusion temperature was 243 ° C.

次いで、交絡を付与したマルチフィラメント糸を第2糸条供給ローラー15を介して仮撚加工領域に供給し、加工速度200m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率(以下、仮撚OFと略記)1%、仮撚温度237℃(第1ヒーター16の熱セット温度)、仮撚数2850t/m(Z撚)の条件で仮撚加工を行った。その後、仮撚加工が施された仮撚加工糸を、第1引取ローラー18を介して巻き取り部21で巻き取ることによって、実施例1の仮撚加工糸を得た。   Subsequently, the entangled multifilament yarn is supplied to the false twisting region via the second yarn supply roller 15, the processing speed is 200 m / min, and the false twist overfeed rate (hereinafter abbreviated as false twist OF) 1% False twisting was performed under the conditions of a false twist temperature of 237 ° C. (the heat setting temperature of the first heater 16) and a false twist number of 2850 t / m (Z twist). Then, the false twisted yarn of Example 1 was obtained by winding the false twisted yarn subjected to false twisting at the winding portion 21 via the first take-up roller 18.

得られた実施例1の仮撚加工糸について、平均実撚数、実撚部比率、及び捲縮特性を前記各測定方法に従って測定した。その測定結果を以下の表1に示す。更に、得られた実施例1の仮撚加工糸を用いて織物(経糸密度10.56羽/cm、緯糸密度120本/2.54cm、サテン組織)を織成し、常法による精錬後に染色温度130℃、染色時間30分の条件で分散染料にて染色を行った。得られた織物について、その風合いを評価したところ、適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感を有し、かつフクラミ感を併せ持つ織物であった。   With respect to the false twisted yarn obtained in Example 1, the average number of actual twists, the ratio of actual twisted portions, and crimp characteristics were measured in accordance with the measurement methods described above. The measurement results are shown in Table 1 below. Further, a woven fabric (warp density of 10.56 wings / cm, weft density of 120 yarns / 2.54 cm, satin structure) was woven using the false twisted yarn of Example 1, and the dyeing temperature was 130 after refining by a conventional method. It dye | stained with the disperse dye on the conditions for 30 degreeC and dyeing | staining time. When the texture of the obtained woven fabric was evaluated, it was a woven fabric having a moderate sensation of texture and a harshness and also having a squeaky feeling.

(実施例2)
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント延伸糸(56dtex/24フィラメント)を供給糸12として、第1糸条供給ローラー13を介して、交絡エアノズル14に供給し、エア圧0.35MPa、OF率4%で交絡を付与した。交絡処理後におけるマルチフィラメント糸の交絡数は74ケ/m、平均交絡長4.4mmであった。仮撚融着温度は、245℃であった。
(Example 2)
Polyester multifilament drawn yarn (56 dtex / 24 filament) was used as the supply yarn 12 and supplied to the entangled air nozzle 14 through the first yarn supply roller 13 to give entanglement at an air pressure of 0.35 MPa and an OF rate of 4%. . The number of entanglements of the multifilament yarn after the entanglement treatment was 74 pcs / m, and the average entanglement length was 4.4 mm. The false twist fusion temperature was 245 ° C.

次いで、交絡を付与したマルチフィラメント糸を第2糸条供給ローラー15を介して仮撚加工領域に供給し、加工速度140m/分、仮撚OF2%、仮撚温度240℃(第1ヒーター16の熱セット温度)、仮撚数3800t/m(Z撚)の条件で仮撚加工を行った。その後、仮撚加工が施された仮撚加工糸を、第1引取ローラー18を介して巻き取り部21で巻き取ることによって、実施例2の仮撚加工糸を得た。   Subsequently, the entangled multifilament yarn is supplied to the false twisting region via the second yarn supply roller 15, the processing speed is 140 m / min, the false twist OF is 2%, the false twisting temperature is 240 ° C. (of the first heater 16 Heat set temperature) and false twisting were performed under the conditions of 3800 t / m false twist (Z twist). Then, the false twisted yarn of Example 2 was obtained by winding the false twisted yarn subjected to false twisting at the winding portion 21 via the first take-up roller 18.

得られた実施例2の仮撚加工糸について、平均実撚数、実撚部比率、及び捲縮特性を前記各測定方法に従って測定した。その測定結果を以下の表1に示す。更に、得られた実施例2の仮撚加工糸とトリアセテートマルチフィラメント糸(84dtex/20フィラメント)とを用いて、合撚数800t/m(Z撚り方向)で合撚糸を作製した。この得られた合撚糸を用いて織物(経糸密度10.56羽/cm、緯糸密度125本/2.54cm、サテン組織)を織成し、常法による精練後に高圧分散染色を行った。得られた織物について、その風合いを評価したところ、適度なシボ感、ハリコシ感を有し、かつフクラミ感を併せ持ち、ストレッチ性にも優れた織物であった。   With respect to the false twisted yarn of Example 2 obtained, the average number of actual twists, the ratio of actual twisted portions, and crimp characteristics were measured according to the above-described measurement methods. The measurement results are shown in Table 1 below. Furthermore, using the obtained false twisted yarn of Example 2 and a triacetate multifilament yarn (84 dtex / 20 filament), a twisted yarn was produced at a twisting number of 800 t / m (Z twist direction). Using the obtained twisted yarn, a woven fabric (warp density of 10.56 wings / cm, weft density of 125 yarns / 2.54 cm, satin structure) was woven and subjected to high-pressure disperse dyeing after scouring by a conventional method. When the texture of the obtained woven fabric was evaluated, it was a woven fabric having an appropriate crease feeling, a harsh feeling, a flaming feeling, and excellent in stretchability.

(比較例1)
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント延伸糸(84dtex/36フィラメント)を供給糸12として、第1糸条供給ローラー13を介して、交絡エアノズル14に供給し、エア圧0.3MPa、OF2%で交絡を付与した。交絡処理後におけるマルチフィラメント糸の交絡数は51ケ/mで、平均交絡長は4.3mmであった。仮撚融着温度は、243℃であった。
(Comparative Example 1)
Polyester multifilament drawn yarn (84 dtex / 36 filament) was supplied as a supply yarn 12 to a entangled air nozzle 14 via a first yarn supply roller 13, and entangled at an air pressure of 0.3 MPa and OF 2%. The number of entanglements of the multifilament yarn after the entanglement treatment was 51 / m, and the average entanglement length was 4.3 mm. The false twist fusion temperature was 243 ° C.

次いで、交絡を付与したマルチフィラメント糸を第2糸条供給ローラー15を介して仮撚加工領域に供給し、加工速度200m/分、仮撚OF2%、仮撚温度237℃(第1ヒーター16の熱セット温度)、仮撚数2800t/m(Z撚)の条件で仮撚加工を行った。その後、仮撚加工が施された仮撚加工糸を、第1引取ローラー18を介して巻き取り部21で巻き取ることによって、比較例1の仮撚加工糸を得た。   Subsequently, the entangled multifilament yarn is supplied to the false twisting region via the second yarn supply roller 15, the processing speed is 200 m / min, the false twist OF is 2%, the false twist temperature is 237 ° C. (of the first heater 16 Heat set temperature) and false twisting were performed under the conditions of false twist number 2800 t / m (Z twist). Then, the false twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1 was obtained by winding the false twisted yarn subjected to false twisting at the winding portion 21 via the first take-up roller 18.

得られた比較例1の仮撚加工糸について、平均実撚数、実撚部比率、及び捲縮特性を前記各測定方法に従って測定した。その測定結果を以下の表1に示す。更に、得られた比較例1の仮撚加工糸を用いて実施例1と同じ条件で織物を織成し、常法による精練後に実施例1と同じ条件で染色を行った。得られた織物について、その風合いを評価したところ、実撚数が低いためにシボ感、ハリコシ感が少なく、またフクラミ感はあるもののフカツキ感があり、品質の低い織物であることがわかった。   With respect to the false twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1 obtained, the average number of actual twists, the actual twist ratio, and the crimp characteristics were measured according to each of the measurement methods. The measurement results are shown in Table 1 below. Further, using the false twisted yarn of Comparative Example 1 obtained, a woven fabric was woven under the same conditions as in Example 1, and dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 after scouring by a conventional method. When the texture of the obtained woven fabric was evaluated, it was found that the woven fabric was low in quality because of its low actual twist number, so that it was less crisp and harsh and had a squeaky feeling but a squeaky feeling.

Figure 2007162180
Figure 2007162180

本発明に係る仮撚加工糸の一例を模式的に示す模式図である。It is a mimetic diagram showing typically an example of false twisted yarn concerning the present invention. 本発明の仮撚加工糸を製造する装置の構成を概略的に示す概略図である。It is the schematic which shows roughly the structure of the apparatus which manufactures the false twisted yarn of this invention.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

1 第1実撚部
2 第2実撚部
3 嵩高捲縮部
10 仮撚加工糸
11 仮撚加工糸の製造装置
12 供給糸
13 第1糸条供給ローラー
14 交絡エアノズル
15 第2糸条供給ローラー
16 第1ヒーター
17 仮撚スピンドル
18 第1引取ローラー
19 第2ヒーター
20 第2引取ローラー
21 巻き取り部
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 1st real twist part 2 2nd real twist part 3 Bulky crimp part 10 False twist process yarn 11 Manufacturing apparatus of false twist process thread 12 Supply thread 13 1st thread supply roller 14 Interlaced air nozzle 15 2nd thread supply roller 16 First heater 17 False twisting spindle 18 First take-up roller 19 Second heater 20 Second take-up roller 21 Winding portion

Claims (5)

熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸からなり、
仮撚加撚方向の撚りを有する第1実撚部と、前記仮撚加撚方向とは逆方向の撚りを有する第2実撚部と、前記第1及び第2実撚部の実撚部間に形成され、仮撚捲縮を有する嵩高捲縮部と、を含んでなる仮撚加工糸であって、
前記第1及び第2実撚部の合計の平均実撚数(t/m)が6000/√T以上10000/√T以下(但し、Tはトータル繊度(デシテックス))であることを特徴とする仮撚加工糸。
Made of thermoplastic multifilament yarn,
A first real twist portion having a twist in the false twist direction, a second real twist portion having a twist in a direction opposite to the false twist direction, and a real twist portion of the first and second real twist portions. A bulky crimped part formed between, and a bulky crimped part having false twisted crimps,
An average real twist number (t / m) of the first and second real twist portions is 6000 / √T or more and 10000 / √T or less (where T is a total fineness (decitex)). False twisted yarn.
前記第1及び第2実撚部の前記仮撚加工糸全体に占める長さ方向の割合が80%以上であることを特徴とする請求項1記載の仮撚加工糸。   The false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein a ratio of a length direction of the first and second real twist portions to the entire false twisted yarn is 80% or more. JIS L 1013に基づく伸張弾性率が20%以上であることを特徴とする請求項1又は2記載の仮撚加工糸。   The false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the tensile elastic modulus based on JIS L 1013 is 20% or more. 請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載された仮撚加工糸を含む織編物。   A woven or knitted fabric comprising the false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3. 熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に交絡数が70ヶ/m以上で、かつ平均交絡長が2mm以上7mm以下の交絡を付与すること、及び、
交絡を付与した前記熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸に、同熱可塑性マルチフィラメント糸の(仮撚融着温度−20℃)以上仮撚融着温度以下の熱セット温度で仮撚加工を行うこと、
を含んでなることを特徴とする仮撚加工糸の製造方法。
Providing the thermoplastic multifilament yarn with an entanglement number of 70 / m or more and an average entanglement length of 2 mm or more and 7 mm or less; and
Performing false twisting on the thermoplastic multifilament yarn provided with entanglement at a heat setting temperature not lower than the false twist fusion temperature of the thermoplastic multifilament yarn (false twist fusion temperature −20 ° C.),
A process for producing false twisted yarn, comprising:
JP2005362251A 2005-12-15 2005-12-15 False twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric, and method for producing false twisted yarn Expired - Fee Related JP4804140B2 (en)

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WO2013191284A1 (en) 2012-06-22 2013-12-27 東レ株式会社 Polyester false-twisted low-melt yarn and multilayer-structure woven knitted article
JP2014240533A (en) * 2013-06-12 2014-12-25 東レ株式会社 Woven fabric for clothing
EP4311869A1 (en) * 2022-07-27 2024-01-31 TMT Machinery, Inc. Method of manufacturing thick and thin yarn

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WO2013191284A1 (en) 2012-06-22 2013-12-27 東レ株式会社 Polyester false-twisted low-melt yarn and multilayer-structure woven knitted article
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JP2014240533A (en) * 2013-06-12 2014-12-25 東レ株式会社 Woven fabric for clothing
EP4311869A1 (en) * 2022-07-27 2024-01-31 TMT Machinery, Inc. Method of manufacturing thick and thin yarn

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