JP4439944B2 - False twisted yarn, production method thereof, and woven / knitted fabric thereof - Google Patents
False twisted yarn, production method thereof, and woven / knitted fabric thereof Download PDFInfo
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本発明は、形態安定性が良く、織編物表面の凹凸変化が少なく、上品な斑感と適度なソフト感、フクラミ感とを併せ持った織編物を提供することができる仮撚加工糸及びその製造方法並びにその織編物に関する。 The present invention is a false twisted yarn capable of providing a woven or knitted fabric having good shape stability, little unevenness on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and having both an elegant patchy feeling, an appropriate soft feeling, and a flaky feeling, and its production It relates to a method and its woven or knitted fabric.
従来、織編物の表面に斑付与可能な加工糸として、仮撚加工により部分的に多重に捲回した仮撚スラブ糸が数多く提案されている。仮撚スラブ糸は、芯糸に対して鞘糸が一重に捲回した道中部と多重に捲回したスラブ部を糸長手方向に形成しており、スラブ部の頻度が多く、織編物表面が粗々しいものとなる。 Conventionally, a number of false twisted slab yarns that have been wound in multiple portions by false twisting have been proposed as processed yarns that can impart spots to the surface of a woven or knitted fabric. The false twisted slab yarn has a middle part in which the sheath yarn is wound once with respect to the core yarn and a slab part in which the sheath yarn is wound in multiple directions in the lengthwise direction of the yarn. It will be rough.
そこで、鞘糸供給量の変動によって低頻度にランダムスラブを形成させる方法が提案されている(例えば、特許文献1参照)。この結果織編物表面の粗々しさは大きく低減するものの、鞘糸の芯糸への巻き付け強度が不足しやすいために、スラブ部がズリ動き易くスラブ形状は安定しないとともに、後工程通過性に問題を生じやすい。 Therefore, a method of forming a random slab at a low frequency by changing the supply amount of sheath yarn has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 1). As a result, the roughness of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is greatly reduced, but the winding strength of the sheath yarn around the core yarn tends to be insufficient. It is easy to produce.
そのため、鞘糸供給量の変動によって低頻度にランダムスラブを形成後にさらに押糸を部分的に多重捲回させて形態安定性を向上せしめた方法が提案されている(例えば、特許文献2参照)。しかしながら、鞘糸により形成されるスラブ部と押糸により形成されるスラブ部とが存在し、仮撚加工糸全体としてスラブ部の頻度が多くなり、織編物表面は粗々しいものとなる。 For this reason, a method has been proposed in which, after forming a random slab at a low frequency due to fluctuations in the amount of sheath yarn supplied, a plurality of push yarns are further partially wound to improve shape stability (see, for example, Patent Document 2). . However, there are a slab portion formed by sheath yarn and a slab portion formed by pressing yarn, and the frequency of the slab portion increases as the whole false twisted yarn, and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes rough.
一方、糸長手方向にS撚り部とZ撚り部が存在するSZ交互撚糸を引き揃え、該撚り部の顕在トルクでSZ交互撚糸を寄りつかせるセルフツイスト法により、諸撚糸様の外観を有する加工糸を用いて織編物の表面に斑を付与する方法が提案されている(例えば、特許文献3)。しかし、形成された諸撚糸様の部分の比率が大きく又頻度が多くなるために織編物表面は粗々しく、かつ硬い風合いのものとなる。
本発明は、このような従来技術における問題点を解決するものであり、SZ交互撚形態部が上撚り形態を呈した撚り構造部と捲縮形態部が引き揃えられた捲縮構造部とを糸長手方向に形成すること、並びに各々の構造部をランダムな長さとし、かつ撚り構造部を低頻度に形成することで、形態安定性が良く、織編物表面の凹凸変化が少なく、上品な斑感と適度なソフト感、フクラミ感とを併せ持った織編物を提供することができる仮撚加工糸及びその製造方法並びにその織編物を提供することを課題とする。 The present invention solves such problems in the prior art, and includes a twisted structure part in which the SZ alternating twist form part has an upper twist form and a crimped structure part in which the crimp form part is aligned. By forming in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and by making each structure part a random length and forming the twist structure part at a low frequency, the shape stability is good, the unevenness of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is small, and elegant spots It is an object of the present invention to provide a false twisted yarn, a manufacturing method thereof, and a woven or knitted fabric that can provide a woven or knitted fabric having both a feeling of softness, an appropriate soft feeling, and a feeling of softness.
本発明の第1の要旨は、SZ交互撚形態部と捲縮形態部を有する少なくとも2本のマルチフィラメント糸からなり、該SZ交互撚形態部同士が上撚り形態を呈した撚り構造部と該捲縮形態部同士が引き揃えられた捲縮構造部からなる仮撚加工糸であって、各々のマルチフィラメント糸に同時にエアー噴射時間0.3〜0.6秒、エアー停止時間1〜20秒(1〜2秒は除く)のランダム周期でエアー旋回流処理を間欠的に施した、該撚り構造部の長さが0.1m以上0.8m以下かつ発現頻度が10mあたり4個以下、該捲縮形態部の長さが1.5m以上である仮撚加工糸にある。 The first gist of the present invention consists of at least two multifilament yarns having an SZ alternating twist form part and a crimped form part, wherein the SZ alternating twist form part has an upper twist form and the twisted structure part A false twisted yarn composed of crimped structure portions in which crimped portions are aligned with each other, each of the multifilament yarns simultaneously having an air injection time of 0.3 to 0.6 seconds, and an air stop time of 1 to 20 seconds The air swirl flow treatment was intermittently performed at a random cycle (excluding 1-2 seconds), the length of the twisted structure portion was 0.1 m or more and 0.8 m or less, and the expression frequency was 4 or less per 10 m, In the false twisted yarn, the length of the crimped portion is 1.5 m or more.
第2の要旨は、少なくとも2本のマルチフィラメント糸を用い、各々のマルチフィラメント糸に同時にエアー噴射時間0.3〜0.6秒、エアー停止時間1〜20秒(1〜2秒は除く)のランダム周期でエアー旋回流処理を間欠的に施し、0.1m以上0.8m以下のSZ交互撚部と1.5m以上の無撚部を形成させ、次いで同一速度で仮撚加撚域に供給し仮撚加工を施す仮撚加工糸の製造方法にある。 The second gist is that at least two multifilament yarns are used, and each multifilament yarn has an air injection time of 0.3 to 0.6 seconds and an air stop time of 1 to 20 seconds (excluding 1-2 seconds). The air swirl process is intermittently performed at a random cycle of 0.1 to 0.8 m to form an SZ alternating twisted part and a 1.5 m or more untwisted part, and then in the false twist twisted region at the same speed It exists in the manufacturing method of false twisted yarn which supplies and false twists.
また第3の要旨は、本発明の仮撚加工糸を含む織編物にある。 The third gist is a woven or knitted fabric including the false twisted yarn of the present invention.
本発明は、従来の仮撚加工糸では得られない、形態安定性が良く、織編物表面の凹凸変化が少なく、上品な斑感と適度なソフト感、フクラミ感とを併せ持った仮撚加工糸及びその製造方法並びにその織編物を提供するものである。 The present invention is a false twisted yarn that has a good form stability, little unevenness on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, an elegant spot feeling, an appropriate soft feeling, and a flaky feeling that cannot be obtained with a conventional false twisted yarn. And its manufacturing method and its woven or knitted fabric.
本発明の仮撚加工糸は、SZ交互撚形態部と捲縮形態部を有する少なくとも2本のマルチフィラメント糸からなる仮撚加工糸であって、各々のマルチフィラメントのSZ交互撚形態部同士が引き揃えられて上撚り形態を呈した撚り構造部と捲縮形態部同士が引き揃えられた捲縮構造部を形成することが必要である。 The false twisted yarn of the present invention is a false twisted yarn composed of at least two multifilament yarns having an SZ alternating twist form part and a crimped form part, and the SZ alternating twist form parts of each multifilament are It is necessary to form a crimped structure part in which the twisted structure part and the crimped form part that have been drawn together to form an upper twisted form are arranged together.
SZ交互撚形態部とはマルチフィラメント糸の単繊維が揃った集束構造を有し、S撚り部とZ撚り部が交互に形成された部分をいい、撚り構造部とは該SZ交互撚形態部の同方向撚り部同士が引き揃えられて逆撚り方向の上撚り形態を形成している部分をいう。捲縮形態部とはマルチフィラメント糸が実質的に集束せず開繊状態で仮撚捲縮を有した部分をいい、捲縮構造部とは該捲縮形態部同士が引き揃えられた部分をいう。 The SZ alternating twist form part has a converging structure in which single filaments of multifilament yarns are aligned, and refers to a part in which S twist parts and Z twist parts are alternately formed. The twist structure part is the SZ alternating twist form part. The same direction twist part is said, and the part which forms the top twist form of the reverse twist direction is put together. The crimped form part is a part where the multifilament yarn is not substantially converged and has a false twisted crimp in the opened state, and the crimped structure part is a part where the crimped form parts are aligned. Say.
本発明の仮撚加工糸において撚り構造部と捲縮構造部は交互に形成されている。 In the false twisted yarn of the present invention, the twisted structure portion and the crimped structure portion are alternately formed.
尚、織編物に斑感を付与する撚り構造部の長さは0.1m以上0.8m以下、より好ましくは0.2m以上0.6m以下となることが必要である。該長さが0.1m未満では撚り構造部の形態安定性が悪くなり、製編織時に該撚り構造部の上撚り形態が外れやすくなり斑感が減少する。また0.8mを超えると撚り構造部は安定するが、織編物にした時に撚り構造部がスジ状に見え外観が悪くなる。 In addition, the length of the twisted structure part that imparts mottle to the woven or knitted fabric needs to be 0.1 m or more and 0.8 m or less, more preferably 0.2 m or more and 0.6 m or less. If the length is less than 0.1 m, the shape stability of the twisted structure portion is deteriorated, and the twisted structure portion is easily dislodged during weaving and the sensation is reduced. When the length exceeds 0.8 m, the twisted structure is stabilized, but when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, the twisted structure looks like a streak and the appearance deteriorates.
一方、捲縮構造部の長さは1.5m以上、より好ましくは2.0m以上となることが必要である。該長さが1.5m未満では、糸長手方向に占める撚り構造部が多くなり、織編物の表面凹凸変化が粗々しくなる。尚、織編物への上品な斑感付与を考慮すると、100m以下であることが好ましい。 On the other hand, the length of the crimped structure portion needs to be 1.5 m or more, more preferably 2.0 m or more. When the length is less than 1.5 m, the number of twisted structures occupied in the longitudinal direction of the yarn increases, and the surface unevenness of the woven or knitted fabric becomes rough. In consideration of imparting an elegant spot feeling to the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferably 100 m or less.
さらに撚り構造部と捲縮構造部が交互にランダムに形成され、かつ撚り構造部の発現頻度は10mあたり4個以下であることが必要であり、該発現頻度が4個を超えると糸長手方向に占める撚り構造部が多くなり、織編物の表面凹凸変化が粗々しくなる。 Furthermore, the twisted structure portion and the crimped structure portion are alternately formed at random, and the expression frequency of the twisted structure portion needs to be 4 or less per 10 m. If the expression frequency exceeds 4, the yarn longitudinal direction As a result, the twisted structure portion of the woven and knitted fabric becomes rough, and the surface unevenness of the woven or knitted fabric becomes rough.
本発明で用いられるマルチフィラメント糸は特に特に限定されるものではなく、ポリエステル繊維、ポリアクリロニトリル繊維、ポリアミド繊維等の熱可塑性繊維、アセテート等の半合成繊維、レーヨン等の再生繊維等を用いることが可能である。また、個々の構成フィラメントの断面形状、全繊度、繊度斑、染色特性等も特に限定されるものではなく、さらに本発明の目的を逸脱しない範囲で各種添加物等を含むことも可能である。 The multifilament yarn used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and thermoplastic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers and polyamide fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and regenerated fibers such as rayon may be used. Is possible. Further, the cross-sectional shape, total fineness, fineness unevenness, dyeing characteristics, etc. of individual constituent filaments are not particularly limited, and various additives may be included without departing from the object of the present invention.
本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造工程を図面により説明する。 The manufacturing process of the false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
本発明の仮撚加工糸は、少なくとも2本のマルチフィラメント糸を用い、各々のマルチフィラメント糸に同時にエアー旋回流処理を間欠的に施し、0.1m以上0.8m以下のSZ交互撚部と1.5m以上の無撚部を形成させ、次いで同一速度で仮撚加撚域に供給して仮撚加工を施して得られる。 The false twisted yarn of the present invention uses at least two multifilament yarns, and each of the multifilament yarns is intermittently subjected to air swirl flow treatment at the same time. It is obtained by forming a non-twisted portion of 1.5 m or more and then supplying the false twisting region at the same speed to perform false twisting.
図1は、本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造工程の一例を示すものである。2本のマルチフィラメント糸を供給糸1、2とし、それぞれの供給糸をマグネットテンサーやラダーガイド等の予備張力調整装置3、4を経てエアー旋回流ノズル5、6を通過させる。この際、エアー旋回流ノズルは電磁弁等を利用した流体噴射制御装置を用い、コンピューター等により2個のエアー旋回流ノズルの噴射時間及び停止時間を同時に後述の実施例にも示したようなランダム周期に制御し、0.1m以上0.8m以下のSZ交互撚部と1.5m以上の無撚部を形成させる。
FIG. 1 shows an example of the production process of the false twisted yarn of the present invention. Two multifilament yarns are used as
次いで、糸条供給ローラー8の直前に設けられた引き揃えガイド7で1本に引き揃え、糸条供給ローラー8を経て、仮撚加撚域に供給する。供給糸1、2は引き揃えられた状態で加撚し、第1ヒーター(接触ヒーター)9の領域で熱セットされて、その後仮撚スピンドル10を通過後直ちに解撚する。引き続き、第1引き取りローラー11を通過し、巻き取り部14で巻き取られ、本発明の仮撚加工糸となる。
Next, the yarns are aligned to one by an alignment guide 7 provided immediately before the
尚、本発明の仮撚加工糸の顕在トルク軽減等を行うために、第1引き取りローラー11と第2引き取りローラー13の間で、第2ヒーター(非接触ヒーター)12により熱セット処理を行ってもよい。
In order to reduce the apparent torque of the false twisted yarn of the present invention, a heat setting process is performed by the second heater (non-contact heater) 12 between the first take-
本発明の仮撚加工糸を含む織編物は、その混率並びに織物組織や編物組織を、目的の風合いや、製品外観が得られる範囲で決定すればよく、本発明の仮撚加工糸単独からなる織編物、または、本発明の仮撚加工糸を織編物の一部に用いた交編物、交織物でもよい。 The woven or knitted fabric containing the false twisted yarn of the present invention may be determined by determining the mixing ratio and the woven or knitted fabric structure within a range in which the desired texture and product appearance can be obtained, and consists of the false twisted yarn of the present invention alone. A woven or knitted fabric, or a knitted or woven fabric using the false twisted yarn of the present invention as a part of the woven or knitted fabric may be used.
また、織編物に本発明の仮撚加工糸を含んだ撚糸を用いてもよい。該撚糸とは、本発明の仮撚加工糸を撚糸したもの、あるいは、本発明の仮撚加工糸同士を合撚したもの、または本発明の仮撚加工糸と他繊維とを合撚したものであり、本発明の仮撚加工糸の特徴とともに他繊維の特徴をも併せもつことも可能となる。 Moreover, you may use the twisted yarn containing the false twisted yarn of this invention for the woven / knitted fabric. The twisted yarn is a twisted yarn of the false twisted yarn of the present invention, a twisted yarn of the false twisted yarn of the present invention, or a twisted yarn of the false twisted yarn of the present invention and another fiber. Therefore, it is possible to have the characteristics of other fibers together with the characteristics of the false twisted yarn of the present invention.
例えば、本発明の仮撚加工糸と、天然繊維、再生繊維、半合成繊維、熱可塑性繊維等の他繊維とが合撚されていることで、該他繊維が有している本来の特徴、例えば、光沢感、清涼感、シャリ感、ウェット感等の風合いを織編物に付与することができる。また、合撚による撚り効果でハリコシ感に富んだ織編物を得ることが可能となる。 For example, the false twisted yarn of the present invention and other fibers such as natural fiber, recycled fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, thermoplastic fiber, etc. are twisted together, so that the original characteristics of the other fiber, For example, textures such as a glossy feeling, a cool feeling, a sharp feeling, and a wet feeling can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric rich in a sense of elasticity due to the twisting effect of the twisting.
上述の合撚に使用する他繊維とは、例えば、綿、麻、絹等の天然繊維、レーヨン等の再生繊維、アセテート等の半合成繊維、ポリエステル繊維等の熱可塑性繊維等である。また、それぞれの繊維を構成する単繊維の断面形状は特に限定されるものではなく、得られる織編物の風合い、光沢等を考慮して、菊型、円形、扁平、Y字等の糸断面形状を選択すればよく、また、単繊維繊度、染色特性等についても特に限定されない。 The other fibers used for the above-mentioned twisting are, for example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and thermoplastic fibers such as polyester fibers. In addition, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting each fiber is not particularly limited, and the cross-sectional shape of the yarn such as chrysanthemum, circular, flat, Y-shaped is taken into consideration in consideration of the texture, gloss, etc. of the resulting woven or knitted fabric The single fiber fineness, dyeing characteristics and the like are not particularly limited.
本発明の撚糸の撚り方向及び合撚数には特に限定はなく、構成糸条の本数、本発明の仮撚加工糸の混率、撚り数等は目的の風合いや織編物外観が得られる範囲で適宜設定すればよい。 The twist direction and the number of twists of the twisted yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited, and the number of constituent yarns, the mixing ratio of the false twisted yarn of the present invention, the number of twists, etc. are within the range where the desired texture and the appearance of the woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. What is necessary is just to set suitably.
以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。尚、各物性は次の方法で求めた。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. Each physical property was determined by the following method.
(1)撚り構造部及び捲縮構造部の長さ
1mの糸条に3.6×10−3g/dtexの初荷重を付与し、目視にて各構造部の長さを10点測定した。
(1) An initial load of 3.6 × 10 −3 g / dtex was applied to a 1 m long yarn of the twisted structure portion and the crimped structure portion, and the length of each structure portion was measured at 10 points visually. .
(2)発現頻度
1mの糸条に3.6×10−3g/dtexの初荷重を付与し、任意部分の測定長10m間の撚り構造部の発現回数を10点測定してその平均値とした。
(2) An initial load of 3.6 × 10 −3 g / dtex is applied to a yarn with an expression frequency of 1 m, and the number of times of expression of the twisted structure portion with a measurement length of 10 m in an arbitrary portion is measured at 10 points, and the average value is obtained. It was.
(3)織編物評価
得られた仮撚加工糸あるいは撚糸を製編織して、ハンドリング並びに目視判定による評価を行った。
(3) Woven / knitted fabric evaluation The obtained false twisted yarn or twisted yarn was knitted and woven and evaluated by handling and visual judgment.
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント延伸糸(110dtex/48F)を供給糸1、2として予備張力調整装置3、4に供給し、図1に示す装置を用いて、エアー旋回流ノズル5、6のエアー圧を0.3MPa、流体噴射制御装置(図示せず)を用いたエアーの噴射時間を0.3〜0.5秒、エアー停止時間を1.0〜6.0秒のランダム周期でエアー加工を行った。エアー加工後における糸条のSZ交互撚部の長さは0.4〜0.5m、無撚部の長さは2.8〜8.5mの範囲で交互にランダムな長さを有するものであった。 次いで各々の糸条を引き揃えガイド7にて引き揃え、糸条供給ローラー8より仮撚加撚域に供給して、加工速度100m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率(以下、OFと略記)2%、仮撚温度220℃(第一ヒーター9の温度)、仮撚数2000T/m(Z撚)の仮撚加工を行い、第1引き取りローラー11を経て巻き取り、本発明の仮撚加工糸を得た。
A polyester multifilament drawn yarn (110 dtex / 48 F) is supplied as
得られた仮撚加工糸の撚り構造部の長さは0.4〜0.5m、捲縮構造部の長さは2.8〜8.5mの範囲で交互にランダムな長さで形成され、撚り構造部の発現頻度は10mあたり2.2回であった。 The twisted structure portion of the obtained false twisted yarn has a length of 0.4 to 0.5 m, and the crimped structure portion has a length of 2.8 to 8.5 m alternately and randomly formed. The frequency of expression of the twisted structure was 2.2 times per 10 m.
得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて織物(経糸密度10.56羽/cm、緯糸密度90本/2.54cm、サテン組織)を作成し、常法により精練後に染色温度130℃、染色時間30分の条件で分散染料にて染色を行った。得られた織物は織編物表面の凹凸感が少なく、上品な斑感と適度なソフト感、フクラミ感を併せ持つものであった。 Using the obtained false twisted yarn, a woven fabric (warp density of 10.56 wings / cm, weft density of 90 yarns / 2.54 cm, satin structure) was prepared, and after scouring by a conventional method, a dyeing temperature of 130 ° C. and a dyeing time of 30 It dye | stained with the disperse dye on the conditions of minutes. The obtained woven fabric had little unevenness on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and had both an elegant spot feeling, an appropriate soft feeling, and a flaming feeling.
トリアセテートマルチフィラメント糸(110dtex/26F)を供給糸1、2として予備張力調整装置3、4に供給し、図1に示す装置を用いて、エアー旋回流ノズル5、6のエアー圧を0.1MPa、流体噴射制御装置(図示せず)を用いたエアーの噴射時間を0.4〜0.6秒、エアー停止時間を12〜20秒のランダム周期でエアー加工を行った。エアー加工後における糸条のSZ交互撚部の長さは0.4〜0.5m、無撚部の長さは14.8〜21.7mの範囲で交互にランダムな長さを有するものであった。
Triacetate multifilament yarn (110 dtex / 26 F) is supplied as
次いで各々の糸条を引き揃えガイド7にて引き揃え、糸条供給ローラー8より仮撚加撚域に供給して、加工速度80m/分、仮撚OF−4%、仮撚温度160℃(第一ヒーター9の温度)、仮撚数1600T/m(Z撚)の仮撚加工を行い、第1引き取りローラー11と第2引き取りローラー13の間でOF4%、ヒーター温度160℃(第2ヒーター12の温度)で熱セット処理して巻き取り、本発明の仮撚加工糸を得た。
Next, each yarn is aligned by the alignment guide 7 and supplied from the
得られた仮撚加工糸の撚り構造部の長さは0.4〜0.5m、捲縮構造部の長さは14.8〜21.7mの範囲で交互にランダムな長さで形成され、撚り構造部の発現頻度は10mあたり0.6回であった。 The length of the twisted structure portion of the obtained false twisted yarn is 0.4 to 0.5 m, and the length of the crimped structure portion is alternately formed in a random length in the range of 14.8 to 21.7 m. The frequency of expression of the twisted structure portion was 0.6 times per 10 m.
次いで、得られた仮撚加工糸を撚数300T/m(Z撚り方向)で撚糸を作成した。得られた撚糸で織物(経糸密度10.56羽/cm、緯糸密度100本/2.54cm、サテン組織)を作成し、常法により精練後に染色温度120℃、染色時間30分の条件で分散染料にて染色を行った。得られた織物は適度なハリコシ感を有し、織編物表面の凹凸感が少なく、低頻度で上品な斑感と適度なソフト感、フクラミ感を併せ持つものであった。 Next, a twisted yarn was prepared from the obtained false twisted yarn with a twist number of 300 T / m (Z twist direction). A woven fabric (warp density of 10.56 / cm, weft density of 100 / 2.54 cm, satin structure) is prepared from the obtained twisted yarn, and after scouring by a conventional method, dispersed under conditions of a dyeing temperature of 120 ° C. and a dyeing time of 30 minutes. Dyeing was performed with a dye. The resulting woven fabric had an appropriate harshness, had less unevenness on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and had both an elegant spot feeling, an appropriate soft feeling, and a flaky feeling at a low frequency.
(比較例1)
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント延伸糸(110dtex/48F)を供給糸1、2として予備張力調整装置3、4にそれぞれ供給し、図1に示す装置を用いて、エアー旋回流ノズル5、6のエアー圧を0.3MPa、流体噴射制御装置(図示せず)を用いたエアーの噴射時間及び停止時間をそれぞれ0.3〜0.5秒のランダム周期でエアー加工を行った。エアー加工後における糸条のSZ交互撚部の長さは0.4〜0.8m、無撚部の長さは0.2〜0.3mの範囲で交互にランダムな長さを有するものであった。
(Comparative Example 1)
Polyester multifilament drawn yarn (110 dtex / 48F) is supplied as
次いで各々の糸条を引き揃えガイド7にて引き揃え、糸条供給ローラー8より仮撚加撚域に供給して、加工速度100m/分、仮撚OF2%、仮撚温度220℃、仮撚数2000T/m(Z撚)の仮撚加工を行い、第1引き取りローラー11を経て巻き取り、本発明の仮撚加工糸を得た。
Next, each yarn is aligned by the alignment guide 7 and supplied from the
得られた仮撚加工糸の撚り構造部の長さは0.4〜0.8m、捲縮構造部の長さは0.2〜0.3mの範囲で交互にランダムな長さであり、撚り構造部の発現頻度は10mあたり12.9回であった。 The length of the twisted structure part of the obtained false twisted yarn is 0.4 to 0.8 m, the length of the crimped structure part is a random length alternately in the range of 0.2 to 0.3 m, The expression frequency of the twisted structure portion was 12.9 times per 10 m.
得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて実施例1と同じ条件で織物を作成し、常法により精練後に実施例1と同じ条件で染色を行ったところ、撚り構造部の発現頻度が多く、織物の表面変化は粗々しいものとなり、捲縮構造部が少なく、ソフト感、フクラミ感の不十分なものであった。 Using the obtained false twisted yarn, a fabric was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 1, and after scouring by a conventional method, dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The surface change was rough, and there were few crimped structures, and the soft feeling and squeaky feeling were insufficient.
1、2 供給糸
3、4 予備張力調整装置
5、6 エアー旋回流ノズル
7 引き揃えガイド
8 糸条供給ローラー
9 第一ヒーター
10 仮撚スピンドル
11 第1引き取りローラー
12 第2ヒーター
13 第2引き取りローラー
14 巻き取り部
1, 2 Supply yarn 3, 4 Pre-tension adjusting
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