JP2001073244A - Fancy processed yarn, fancy processed yarn having improved refreshingness, and knitted or woven fabric comprising both of them and method for producing them - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a fancy processed yarn which maintains thickness irregularity between really twisted portions and opened portions, has a soft touch at the really twisted portions, and is suitable for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having both a refreshing touch and a soft touch. SOLUTION: This fancy processed yarn comprises a false-twisted yarn which has really twisted portions and opened portions, and is a conjugated continuous multifilament yarn(CFY) produced from a slightly soluble or insoluble thermoplastic polymer A and an easily soluble thermoplastic polymer B both of which are incompatible with each other, and has a dissolution rate ratio of at least 2. Therein, when the polymer B in the filaments (CF) constituting CFY is removed, the polymer A produces at least ten ultra-fine continuous filaments(UF) having a single filament fineness of 0.033 to 0.11 dtex (0.03 to 0.1 denier). The really twisted portions and the opened portions are disposed at an average pitch of 1 to 30 mm in the length direction of the processed yarn, and are contained in a length ratio of 25/75 to 75/25 based on the length of the processed yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a false twisted yarn having a real twist portion and a fiber opening portion suitable for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric which is soft to the touch and excellent in hygroscopicity and air permeability, ie, coolness. More specifically, the present invention relates to a false twisted yarn having a real twist portion and a spread portion made of a composite continuous filament yarn separable into a plurality of ultrafine continuous filaments, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, consumer demands have been diversified,
As a material for clothing, there is an increasing demand for a soft woven / knitted fabric having a so-called refreshing feeling with little contact with the skin and excellent in hygroscopicity and breathability, and eventually a design yarn providing such a woven / knitted fabric. .

As means for improving the air permeability and reducing the contact with the skin, a real twisted portion and an opened portion are formed in the longitudinal direction of the design yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric, and the thickness thereof is increased. Utilizing spots, that is, enlarging the air passage and the non-contact portion with the skin by a thin portion. And
As a means for forming such a real twist portion and a spread portion, false twisting may be performed at a relatively high temperature at which a continuous filament yarn made of a thermoplastic resin is fused or adhered.

[0004] However, the real twisted portion formed by such fusion or gluing has a very rough texture. For this reason, a composite continuous filament yarn consisting of two types of thermoplastic resin is used as the continuous filament yarn, and one of the thermoplastic resins is dissolved and removed with an alkali solution or the like, and the untwisted portion is released, thereby improving excessive hand hardening. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. Hei 6-287825 and Hei 8-92835 propose to obtain a soft-woven woven or knitted fabric.

The former is composed of two kinds of thermoplastic resins whose melting points are different from each other by 10 ° C. or more.
Using a composite continuous filament that forms a continuous filament of about 3 single fiber fineness of about 1.1 dtek (1 denier), a thermoplastic resin on the low melting point side is adhered, and the processed yarn is woven and knitted. A part or all of the thermoplastic resin on the low melting point side is dissolved and removed with an alkaline solution to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a twist-like feel while being a non-twisted yarn.

However, the false twisted yarn disclosed in the publication is a proposition to impart a texture for twisting to a woven or knitted fabric, and there is no idea to maintain unevenness in the thickness between the actual twisted portion and the spread portion. ,
Rather, after the dissolution and removal treatment, curls and loops are formed in the actual twist portion to convert the structure into a bulky structure, thereby eliminating unevenness in thickness. Moreover, the single-filament fineness of the continuous filament formed by the high-melting-point thermoplastic resin after the dissolution removal treatment is 1.1.
It was as thick as dtek (1 denier), and softening of touch and improvement of water absorption were not yet satisfactory.

The latter is a thick and thin yarn having an undrawn portion and a drawn portion, and has a single fiber fineness of 0.56 dtex.
(0.5 denier) After using a composite continuous filament that forms six ultra-fine continuous filaments of 0.5 or less, false-twisting it with a low twist number and fusing the thermoplastic resin in the unstretched portion, Part or all of the thermoplastic resin on the low melting point side is dissolved and removed with an alkaline solution. The resulting design yarn is a silky-like yarn that is partially fixed by fusion in an open state in which ultrafine continuous filaments are aligned.

Certainly, according to the publication, since a very fine continuous filament having a single-fiber fineness of 0.56 dtex (0.5 denier) or less is employed, a material having a relatively soft touch and high hygroscopicity can be obtained. Can be However, since this publication has a proposition of silky-like design processed yarn, the thickness unevenness between the actual twisted portion and the spread portion has been eliminated and the substantial thickness unevenness has been reduced as compared with the former publication. It is no exaggeration to say that there is no such thing.

As described above, the method of softening the feel of the real twisted portion in the prior art is based on the premise that the structure of the real twisted portion is destroyed, and the damage between the actual twisted portion and the spread portion is impaired. Not aware of the challenge of maintaining thickness irregularities. Also, softening the feel of the real twisted part leads to eliminating unevenness in the thickness between the real twisted part and the spread part. The minute contact with the right had a two-pronged problem.

[0010]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a refreshing feeling and a soft touch in which the texture of the real twist portion is softened while maintaining the thickness unevenness between the real twist portion and the spread portion. It is an object of the present invention to provide a design-processed yarn suitable for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having the same, and a method for producing the same.

[0011]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to solve the above problems, and as a result, when dissolving and removing one of the thermoplastic resins, the dissolution rate of the real twist portion is lower than that of the spread portion. Investigating that it is slow, when combining the potential properties of the designed yarn in the dissolving and removing treatment with the composite continuous filament that can be separated into at least 10 ultrafine continuous filaments by dissolving and removing, It has been found that it is possible to solve the problem and to soften the touch of the actual twisted part while maintaining the thickness unevenness between the actual twisted part and the spread part.

Thus, according to the present invention, the soluble or insoluble thermoplastic polymer A, which is mutually incompatible and has a dissolution rate ratio of at least 2 in either an organic solvent or an acidic or alkaline solution, is readily soluble in A false twisted yarn having a real twist portion and a spread portion made of CFY with thermoplastic polymer B, a. Polymer (A) which is a hard or insoluble component in CF
Removes polymer B in CF, at least 10
The single fiber fineness of the book is 0.033 to 0.111 dtex
Producing a UF of (0.03-0.1 denier);
And b. The real twist part and the spread part have an average pitch in the length direction of the design processing yarn both in the range of 1 to 30 mm, and 25 to 75, respectively, based on the length of the design processing yarn.
% And a range of 75 to 25% at the same time, wherein the design yarn is mutually incompatible and has a dissolution rate ratio of at least 2 in either an organic solvent or an acidic or alkaline solution. A design processing yarn obtained by partially dissolving and removing the polymer B from a false twist processing yarn having a real twist part and an open part made of CFY of a hard or insoluble thermoplastic polymer A and an easily soluble thermoplastic polymer B, c. CF has a single fiber fineness of 0.033 to 0.111 dtex (0.
0.3-0.1 denier) to a UF consisting of Polymer A; d. The real twisted portion has a structure in which CF and UF coexist and the former is covered by the latter in its cross section; and e. The number of independent continuous filaments in the opened portion is at least 1.5 times or more than that of the real twisted portion, and at the same time, the design-processed yarn having improved coolness, and Woven or knitted fabric and a method for producing the same.

[0013]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention, as described at the outset,
A composite continuous multifilament yarn of a difficult or insoluble thermoplastic polymer A and a readily soluble thermoplastic polymer B which is mutually incompatible and has a dissolution rate ratio of at least 2 in either an organic solvent or an acidic or alkaline solution. The present invention relates to improvement of a design yarn having a real twist portion and a spread portion obtained by false twisting (CFY).

FIG. 1A shows the design yarn of the present invention.
This will be described with reference to b and c. FIG. 1A is a side view (a surface parallel to the yarn axis direction) of the design yarn of the present invention, FIG.
-B and c are cross-sectional views (cross sections perpendicular to the yarn axis direction) of AA '(real twisted portion) and BB' (spread portion) in Fig. 1-a. FIG. 1 shows 1.11 dtex.
This is a state where a relatively light load of 19.6 μN (2 mg) per (denier) is applied.

Here, the design yarn having the real twisted portion and the spread portion referred to in the present invention has a ratio of the thickness of the spread portion to the real twist portion as shown in FIG. It means a design yarn that is 1.5 times or more. By the way, the real twist portion means that the thickness of the whole design yarn is 167 dtex (150 denier).
It has a twist number of about 600 to 3000 T / m. If the number of twists is less than 600, C
The effect of tightening each of the composite continuous filaments (CF) constituting the FY is small, and it is difficult to obtain a filament whose outer diameter (L) is sufficiently small with respect to the spread portion. On the other hand, the upper limit is at most 3000 T / m in order to impart twist by false twisting.
In addition, if the actual twist portion satisfies the above number of twists, CF
Although they do not need to be fused or fixed to each other, it is preferable to use C
F are locally fused or fixed. The spread portion means a state in which the CFs are in a non-fused or non-adhered state and spread as shown in FIG. 1-c.

The designed yarn of the present invention has the following a
And b. Requirement-a: When the polymer A in the CF removes the polymer B, which is an easily soluble component, at least 10 single fiber finenesses are 0.033 to 0.111 dtex (0.03 to 0.1 dtex).
(1 denier) Ultra fine continuous filament (UF) is generated, and Requirement-b: The average pitch in which the real twisted portion and the spread portion are both in the length direction of the designed yarn in the range of 1 to 30 mm. And based on the length of the design processing yarn, 2
Be in the range of 5 to 75% and 75 to 25%.

In particular, the requirement -a is the most important feature of the present invention, and is intended to achieve both softness and coolness of the textured processed yarn obtained by partially dissolving and removing the polymer B. If the single fiber fineness is less than 0.033 dtex (0.03 denier), the design-processed yarn after the dissolution and removal becomes excessively soft and clings to the skin, thereby impairing the refreshing property. On the other hand, the single fiber fineness is 0.111 dtex (0.1
When the thickness is larger than (denier), softening of the texture of the processed yarn after the dissolution and removal, and improvement in water absorption due to improvement of the capillary phenomenon due to ultrafine single fiber fineness become insufficient. The number of UFs needs to be at least 10 or more. If the number is less than 10, the unevenness in thickness between the real twisted portion and the spread portion of the design processed yarn after the dissolution and removal cannot be maintained. On the other hand,
From the viewpoint of spinnability and handleability of the obtained UF, the number is at most 100. The preferred number is in the range of 30 to 80.

Next, requirement-b is a requirement for reducing contact with the skin and ensuring air permeability. If the average pitch of each of the real twisted part and the spread part in the longitudinal direction of the processed yarn is less than 1 mm, the air passage secured by the unevenness of the thickness of the real twist part and the spread part becomes narrow, and the air permeability becomes poor. bad.
On the other hand, if it is larger than 30 mm, in the spread form part,
The length is excessively long, and the contact with the skin increases, and a sticky feeling that contradicts the refreshing feeling is developed. The substance itself comes into contact with the skin, and the contact with the skin is rather increased. The average pitch of each of the preferred real twist part and the spread part is 5 mm.
範 囲 15 mm.

When the ratio of the real twisted portion in the longitudinal direction of the processed yarn is less than 25% or the ratio of the spread portion is more than 75%, the air secured by the uneven thickness of the real twisted portion and the spread portion is provided. Passage is reduced, and air permeability is poor. On the other hand, if the ratio of the real twisted portion is larger than 75% or the ratio of the spread portion is less than 25%, not only the steel becomes excessively crude, but also the real twisted portion itself comes into contact with the skin and is Contact increases instead. The ratio of the preferred real twisted portion and the spread portion to the processed yarn is in the range of 35 to 65% and 65 to 35%.

The CF used in the design yarn of the present invention will be described below. The CF of the present invention is preferably one in which the polymer B occupies at least 50% of the outer peripheral surface of the CF so that the UF made of the polymer A, which gives a soft touch to the skin, is not so fused or stuck. Particularly preferred CF
Is that the polymer B occupies the entire outer peripheral surface of the CF. Further, the ratio of the polymers A and B constituting the CF is preferably in the range of 35:65 to 80:20, particularly preferably in the range of 40:60 to 75:25 based on the weight. When the proportion of the polymer A is less than 35% (the proportion of the polymer B is greater than 65%), the UF remaining on the design yarn after dissolution and removal is small, and it is difficult to maintain the thickness of the spread portion. On the other hand, when the proportion of the polymer A is larger than 80% (the proportion of the polymer B is less than 20%), fusion or sticking by the polymer B for forming a real twist portion is unlikely to occur.

The cross-sectional form of the CF is such that the polymer A forms an island component and the polymer B forms a sea component as shown in FIG. 3, or the polymer A and the polymer B alternate as shown in FIG. And preferably a sea-island type in which the number of UFs formed by the polymer A in the CF is easily increased and the polymer B occupies the entire outer surface of the CF. Of course, the cross section of the CF may be circular, irregular, solid or hollow.

The combination of the polymers constituting the CF differs depending on the solution in order to selectively dissolve and remove only the polymer B, but the dissolution rate of the polymer B is different from the solution used for dissolution and removal. It is required to be at least twice as large as that of A, and preferably 2.5 times or more. Particularly preferred are combinations that can dissolve only polymer B without dissolving polymer A at all.

Specific combinations of polymers A and B include polyester / polyamide, polyester / polyolefin, polyamide / polyolefin, modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing or blending polyester / third component, and polyamide / third component. Modified polyamides that have been polymerized or blended are exemplified. Preferably, a third component such as a polyester / polyalkylene glycol residue or a dicarboxylic acid residue having a sulfonic acid metal salt in a side chain, which is relatively easy to spin and can easily dissolve and remove the polymer B with an alkaline solution, is used. A combination of polymerized or compounded modified polyesters.

The polymer A is not limited to one type but may be a combination of a plurality of polymers as long as the relationship with the polymer B is satisfied. This holds true for the polymer B if the above-mentioned relationship with the polymer A is satisfied.

Next, another modified processed yarn having improved coolability of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. FIG. 2A is a side view (a surface parallel to the yarn axis direction) of the engineered yarn having improved coolability of the present invention,
FIGS. 2B and 2C show AA ′ (real twisted portion) in FIG.
FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view (a cross section perpendicular to the yarn axis direction) at BB ′ (spread portion). FIG. 2 shows 1.11 dte
A relatively light load of 19.6 μN (2 mg) per x (denier) is applied. In addition, for the same reason as the design processing yarn of FIG. 1, the thickness ratio of the real twisted part and the spread part is 1.
5 times or more, the number of twists of the actual twisted portion is 600 to 3000 T / m in terms of 167 dtex (150 denier), and the actual twisted portion is CF
It is not necessary that the CFs are fused or glued together, but it is preferably a fusion-fixed one, and the opened portion is a CF in which the CFs are in a non-fused, non-glued state and a spread state.

Such a designed yarn having improved refreshability can be obtained by partially dissolving and removing the polymer B from the designed yarn as shown in FIG.
It is necessary to satisfy two requirements at the same time. Here, the partial dissolution removal refers to the polymer B occupying in CF.
From 20 to 90% based on the weight of the polymer B,
It is preferable to dissolve and remove 30 to 80%. If the dissolution and removal are less than 20%, the softening of the touch is insufficient, and if it is more than 90%, the structure of the real twisted portion is broken, resulting in a bulky structure. Requirement-c: CF has a single fiber fineness of at least 10 in a part of its longitudinal direction of 0.033 to 0.111 dtex.
(0.03-0.1 denier) of polymer A
F; Requirement-d: The real twisted section has CF and UF in its cross section.
And a structure in which the former is covered by the latter; and Requirement-e: the number of independent continuous filaments in the spread part is at least 1.5 times that in the real twist part. .

The requirement-c is based on the same reason as the requirement-a, and is the greatest feature of the present invention.

Requirement-d is to achieve a soft touch while maintaining the tightening of the constituent filaments by twisting of the actual twisted portion. That is, since the UF covers the CF in the actual twisted portion, the surface becomes very soft to the touch, and the CF remains inside the UF, so that the twist remains, and The structure of the twisted part is maintained. Preferably, the area of CF occupying the cross section of the actual twisted portion is in the range of 20 to 80%, particularly 30 to 70%. Here, the area ratio of CF is obtained by dividing the area of the continuous filament in which the polymer A and the polymer B coexist by the area obtained by adding the area of the UF made of a single polymer to the polymer A and the polymer B. It is a thing.

Requirement-e is to increase the thickness ratio between the actual twisted portion and the spread portion by dissolving and removing in order to prevent the actual twisted portion from becoming bulky and approaching the thickness of the spread portion by dissolving and removing. It is for. That is, by dissolving and removing, the number of independent continuous filaments constituting the real twisted part and the spread part is at least 1.5 times or more, preferably 1.5 times or more. The thickness ratio between the spread portion and the real twist portion is maintained even after dissolution and removal. The number of independent continuous filaments as referred to here means that when the cross section of the design processing yarn is viewed, the outer surface is counted as one having been completely separated from other continuous filaments. Two UFs partially bonded to each other are counted as one in total. On the other hand, the upper limit is at most 0.8 × α. Here, α is the number of divisions of the polymer A by the polymer B in CF, that is, 1
This is the number of UFs generated from the CF of the book.

It should be noted that the design-processed yarn having improved coolability after such dissolution removal also has the same average pitch between the real twisted portion and the spread portion as the processed yarn before dissolution removal and the proportion of the yarn in the longitudinal direction. Are preferred for the same reason as before dissolution and removal.

The process for producing a design-processed yarn of the present invention and a design-processed yarn obtained from the design-processed yarn having improved coolness is described below.
It is described below. As the CFY used in the present invention, a conventionally known spinning method can be arbitrarily adopted. For example, using a spinneret having multiple stages and a plurality of polymer inlets, the above-mentioned at least two kinds of thermoplastic resins can be introduced into the spinneret from different polymer inlets, and polymer A can be separated into 10 or more. It is only necessary to discharge the ink from the same discharge hole and wind it up with a winder. At this time, a plurality of rollers or the like may be interposed on the upstream side of the winder, or stretching may be performed between the rollers.
The CFY has a single fiber fineness of 2.2.
A filament having a diameter of 2 to 11.1 dtex (2 to 10 denier) and a filament number of 10 to 150 can be suitably used.

The CFY thus obtained is then subjected to false twisting, and the actual twisted portion and the spread portion having an average pitch in the range of 1 to 30 mm are separated by 25 in the length direction.
False twisted yarn having a ratio of 75% to 75%. Such a false twisted yarn can be obtained by employing the following false twist conditions. Tm (b) −50 ≦ HT ≦ Tm (a) −10 (1) 1.5 ≦ (S1 / S2) ≦ 2.5 (2) 16.67 ≦ T ≦ 21.56 (3) (However, Tm (A) is the melting point (° C.) of polymer A, Tm
(B) is the melting point (° C.) of the polymer B, HT is the heater temperature (° C.) during false twisting, S1 is the peripheral speed (m / min) of the false twisting tool in false twisting, and S2 is the processing in false twisting. Speed (m / min), T is the yarn tension (cN) during false twisting (twisting). )

As for the formula (1), the false twist temperature is Tm
(B) When the temperature is lower than -50 (° C.), a real twist portion cannot be generated,
On the other hand, the upper limit is at most Tm (a) -10.

Formula (2) is the peripheral speed of the false twisting tool in the false twisting process (when the false twisting tool is a friction disk, the peripheral speed of the disk, and in the case of a belt, it is perpendicular to the running direction of the yarn. The rotation speed of the belt in the direction) is divided by the processing speed in false twisting (the processing speed when passing through a false twisting tool, and in the case of stretch false twisting, the running speed of the yarn after drawing). It is necessary to produce a real twisted portion having a tight feeling in the number range of 600 to 3000.

Equation (3) is required to generate a real twisted part and a spread part having an average pitch in the range of 1 to 30 mm. The shorter the tension in the twisted part upstream of the false twisting device, the shorter the pitch. A real twisted portion and a spread portion can be generated. Therefore, the tension is at most 21.56 cN (22 g), while the lower limit is at least 16.6 from the viewpoint of maintaining false twisting workability.
7cN (17g).

The preferred false twisting is stretching false twisting accompanied by stretching. This is because the draw false twist processing using CFY having a high elongation and a small heat history has a lower melting temperature than the false twist processing using CFY having a low elongation and a large heat history without stretching. This is because the actual twisted portion can be firmly fixed by the stretch false twist tension. The false twisting mechanism at this time may be a friction type or a belt type, but the friction type has a smaller area in contact with CFY during the false twisting and has a relatively short pitch. This is preferable because a part and an opening part can be obtained. Furthermore, if a CFY having an irregular spot that varies the false twisting tension during false twisting, a stretching mechanism, a feeding mechanism, or a false twisting mechanism is employed, a real twist portion is more likely to occur.

The thus-obtained design yarn of the present invention is formed into a woven or knitted fabric, and then a solution is appropriately selected according to the combination of the polymer A and the polymer B. For example, the polyester / third component is copolymerized or In the case of the blended modified polyester, the polymer B is partially dissolved and removed by an alkali solution to obtain a design-processed yarn having improved refreshability of the present invention. The amount of the polymer B dissolved and removed at this time is as described above.

[0038]

[Function] In the design yarn of the present invention, since the hardness and the gap are different between the real twisted portion and the spread portion during dissolution and removal, it has been found that the dissolution speed is slower in the real twist portion than in the spread portion. did. This is because many voids in the opening part cause the dissolution and removal to proceed from inside the CFY, whereas in the real twisted part, there are almost no voids inside, so dissolution and removal are performed only from the outer surface side of the CFY. Because it does not progress. By utilizing this property, instead of dissolving and removing the entire amount of the polymer B, by dissolving and removing the polymer B so as to partially remain, only the open fiber portion is selectively dissolved and removed, and the inside of the actual twist portion is removed. , While leaving CF, the surface is covered with UF, and a structure with a real twisted portion narrowed down while being soft to the touch can be left.

Further, in the present invention, since CF which is separable into 10 or more UFs is adopted, the number of independent continuous filaments constituting the actual twisted portion and the spread portion due to the difference in dissolution and removal is increased. The difference between the two is increased more than the conventional one that is separated into about six UFs.

Moreover, the use of the dissolution rate difference inherent between the actual twisted portion and the spread portion and the increase in the number of UFs separated from CF cannot be achieved until both of the actual twisted portion and the spread portion are opened. The thickness ratio with the part can be maintained, and the thickness ratio is reduced by using either one alone. From the above, it can be said that both of them function with an organic bond in the task of maintaining the thickness ratio between the real twisted portion and the spread portion while softening the feel of the real twisted portion.

[0041]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to embodiments. Incidentally, the melting point of the polymer referred to in the present invention, the average pitch of the real twisted part and the spread part, the ratio and the number of independent filaments,
The number of twists of the actual twisted portion and the area ratio of CF in the cross section of the actual twisted portion were measured as follows.

(1) Melting point of polymer: TH Instruments Analyst 000 manufactured by TA Instruments (Differential Scanning Ca)
10 mg of sample, and heating rate 2
The peak of the endothermic peak of the chart measured while performing N ₂ substitution at 0 ° C./min was defined as the melting point.

(2) Average pitch and ratio between the actual twisted portion and the spread portion: Five samples each having a yarn length of 1 meter are prepared, and each sample is placed on a 1-meter scale having a scale of a minimum unit of 1 mm. The pieces were placed under a tension of about 1.96 μN (0.2 mg) per 11 dtex (1 denier), and the lengths and numbers of the opened portions and the actual twisted portions were measured. From the results of the five samples each having a yarn length of 1 meter, the average pitch and ratio between the actual twisted portion and the spread portion were calculated.

(3) Number of independent filaments in the real twisted part and the opened part: embedded in paraffin, cut into a few microns with a microtome, paraffin is dissolved and removed, and the number of independent filaments is counted under a microscope. Was counted. The number of independent filaments here is
When looking at the cross section of the design processing yarn, one fiber whose outer surface is completely separated from other continuous filaments, and two UFs whose outer surfaces are partially bonded to each other, are two UFs. Not counted as one.

(4) Number of twists in the actual twisted part: The small twisting machine was set on a scaled stereoscopic microscope, and only the actual twisted part was gripped and its length was read. It was untwisted and the number of twists per meter was calculated.

(5) The area ratio of CF in the cross section of the actual twisted portion: After burying the sample in paraffin and cutting it to several microns with a microtome, the paraffin is dissolved and removed, and polymer A and polymer B coexist. The area of the continuous filament is divided by the area obtained by adding the area of the UF made of a single polymer to each of the polymer A and the polymer B. Note that the CF referred to here includes those partially divided or split into a plurality of continuous filaments by a dissolution removal treatment, in other words, excluding UF consisting of a completely separated single polymer. Continuous filament.

Example 1 As a polymer B, 4% by weight of a polyetherester compound having a number average molecular weight of 150,000 (composed of a phthalic acid residue and a polyoxyethylene glycol residue having a number average molecular weight of 20,000) was used, and the molecular weight was 20,000. Polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.63, melting point: 253 ° C.) containing 4% of polyethylene glycol and 0.8% of an alkylsulfonic acid sodium salt (alkyl group is an aliphatic alkyl group having an average of 14 carbon atoms); On the other hand, as the polymer A, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 was discharged from the same discharge hole at a weight ratio of 50:50, and 37 islands of the polymer A
A sea-island type CFY having a cross section formed therein (FIG. 3 / cross-sectional schematic view) was wound at a spinning take-off speed of 3000 m / min. The resulting CFY had an elongation of 130 d of 100 dtex (90 denier) / 24 filament.

This CFY was processed by a friction type false twisting machine under the following conditions. Processing speed 300 m / min False twist temperature (contact iron plate length 1.2 m) 225 ° C. False twist stretching ratio 1.2 False twist desk peripheral speed 600 m / min False twist tension (twist side) 19.6 cN (20 g) obtained 83.3 dtex (75 denier) / 24 filament, average length of the real twisted part is 12 m
m, the average length of the spread portion was 7 mm, the ratio between the real twist portion and the spread portion was 1: 1, and the number of twists in the real twist portion was 1650 T / m.

A greige fabric was prepared from the design-processed yarn at a warp finish density of 100 yarns / 25 mm and a weft finish density of 88 yarns / 25 mm in a flat basic structure, and 80% of the polymer B was dissolved and removed with an alkaline solution.

The design-processed yarn constituting the obtained woven fabric is covered with a UF having a single fiber fineness of 0.044 dtex (0.04 denier), and the average pitch between the real twisted portion and the spread portion is 5 mm and 6 mm. And the ratio in the length direction is 1: 1
The ratio of the number of independent filaments was 1.6, the number of twists in the actual twisted portion was 1500 T / m, and the area ratio of CF in the cross section of the actual twisted portion was 38%.

The obtained woven fabric has a soft touch while the real twist portion has moderate hardness and squeezing, and the open fiber portion has excellent water absorbency while further improving the softness. Since the thickness ratios of both were large and existed evenly at a short pitch, there was little contact with the skin and excellent air permeability.

Comparative Example 1 A sea-island type CFY was wound in the same manner except that the number of islands of the polymer A was changed to six. This CFY was processed by a friction type false twisting machine under the following conditions. Processing speed 300m / min False twist temperature (contact iron plate length 1.2m) 240 ° C False twist stretching ratio 1.2 False twist desk peripheral speed 600m / min False twist tension (twist side) 22.54cN (23g) obtained The designed yarn is 83.3 dtex (75 denier) / 24 filament, and the average length of the real twist part is 50 m.
m, the average length of the spread portion was 40 mm, the ratio between the real twist portion and the spread portion was 80:20, and the number of twists in the real twist portion was 1500 T / m.

The same process as in Example 1 was repeated on this design yarn. The design yarn constituting the obtained woven fabric,
Single fiber fineness is 0.266 dtex (0.24 denier)
UF covers the surface, the average pitch between the real twisted portion and the spread portion is 50 mm and 40 mm, the ratio is 85:15, and the ratio of the number of independent filaments in the spread portion and the real twist portion is 1 In 0.4, the number of twists of the actual twisted portion was 1500 T / m, and the area ratio of CF in the cross section of the actual twisted portion was 42%.

The obtained woven fabric has moderate hardness and squeezing at the actual twisted portion, but feels just one step away, and the opening portion has improved softness, but has low water absorption and thickness of both. Since the ratio was small, the pitch was long, and most of the strands were real twisted portions, there was a lot of contact with the skin and the air permeability was insufficient.

[Comparative Example 2] The reduction rate of polymer B was 95%.
The same operation as in Example 1 was repeated, except that the operation was changed to. The design processing yarn constituting the obtained woven fabric has a UF having a single fiber fineness of 0.044 dtex (0.04 denier) covering the surface thereof, and has an average pitch of 50 mm between the real twisted portion and the spread portion.
And 40 mm, the ratio is 85:15, and the ratio of the number of independent filaments in the spread portion and the real twist portion is very small, 1.05. The number of twists of the actual twisted portion was bulky and could not be measured because it was almost 1.1 times.

The obtained woven fabric has a soft touch and a high degree of water absorption, but has a small thickness ratio between the real twisted portion and the spread portion, which has almost no hardness and narrowing due to the real twisted portion,
There was much contact with the skin and air permeability was insufficient.

[0057]

The design yarn of the present invention has at least 10
The single fiber fineness of the book is 0.033 to 0.111 dtex
(0.03-0.1 denier) CF separable to UF
Is used as a raw yarn, and the real twisted portion and the spread portion are false twisted such that both have an average pitch in the range of 1 to 30 mm and a ratio of 25:75 to 75:25. Since the processed yarn was partially removed by dissolving and removing the polymer (B) by a dissolution removal treatment such as alkali reduction,
Provided is a design-processed yarn which is soft and has an improved cooling property, which is unprecedented, while maintaining the thickness ratio between the real twist portion and the spread portion.

The woven or knitted fabric using the designed yarn having improved refreshability has a single fiber fineness of 0.111 dtex.
(0.1 denier) or less UF forms the surface, so it feels very soft and has excellent water absorption, and a large thickness ratio between the real twisted part and the spread part secures the air passage. In addition, since it has a small contact area with the skin, it has excellent refreshing properties without stickiness due to the use of ultrafine yarn. Therefore, it is very suitably used for sports clothing and underwear with much sweating, and dress shirts, slacks, jackets, suits and skirts worn in summer.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 Design-processed yarn of the present invention

FIG. 2 is a processed yarn having improved coolability of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of a composite continuous filament used in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of another composite continuous filament used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Real twist part 2 Spread part 3 Composite continuous filament 4 Ultrafine continuous filament 5 Polymer A 6 Polymer B

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D04B 21/00 D04B 21/00 B D06M 11/38 D06M 5/02 G // D06M 101: 32 (72) Inventor Masayuki Hayashi 77 77 Kitayoshida-cho, Matsuyama-shi, Ehime F-term in Matsuyama Plant of Teijin Limited (Reference) 4L002 AA07 AB02 AB04 AB05 AC04 DA05 EA00 EA03 FA02 FA03 4L031 AA18 AB01 AB04 AB08 AB21 AB27 CA01 CA09 DA00 4L036 MA05 PA05 MA05 PA05 PA14 PA21 PA26 RA10 UA01 4L041 AA08 BA04 BA05 BA11 BA16 BC02 BD13 BD14 BD20 CA06 CA16 DD01 DD11 DD18 DD21 EE06 EE07 EE15 EE20 4L048 AA20 AA29 AB07 AB12 AB21 AC19 BA01 BA02 CA07 CA12 DA01 DA03 EB04

Claims (17)

[Claims] 1. A method according to claim 1, wherein said dissolvable or insoluble thermoplastic polymer A and said readily soluble thermoplastic polymer B are mutually incompatible and have a dissolution rate ratio of at least 2 in either an organic solvent or an acidic or alkaline solution. A false twisted yarn having a real twist portion and an open portion made of a composite continuous multifilament yarn (CFY), wherein the false twisted yarn simultaneously has the following a or b: Processing thread. a. When the polymer A in each filament (CF) constituting CFY removes the polymer B in the CF, at least 10 single fiber finenesses become 0.033 to 0.111 dte.
producing x (0.03-0.1 denier) ultrafine continuous filaments (UF); and b. The real twisted part and the spread part have an average pitch in the length direction of the design processing yarn both in the range of 1 to 30 mm, and 25 to 7 based on the length of the design processing yarn, respectively.
5% and in the range of 75-25%. 2. The design yarn according to claim 1, wherein a part of the CF forming the real twist portion is fused or adhered to each other. 3. The engineered yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polymer B occupies at least 50% of the outer peripheral surface of the CF. 4. The ratio of polymers A and B in the CF is
The design textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is in a range of 35:65 to 80:20 based on weight. 5. The design according to claim 1, wherein the combination of the polymers A and B is a polyester and a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing or blending a third component with the polyester. Processing thread. 6. The processed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the cross section of the CF exhibits a sea-island shape in which the polymer A forms an island component and the polymer B forms a sea component. 7. The design processing yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least 30 w
A woven or knitted fabric characterized by containing t%. 8. A method according to claim 1, wherein the dissolvable or insoluble thermoplastic polymer A and the readily soluble thermoplastic polymer B are mutually incompatible and have a dissolution rate ratio of at least 2 in either an organic solvent or an acidic or alkaline solution. Polymer B from false twisted yarn having a real twisted portion and an open portion made of CFY
, Wherein the design-processed yarn has the following c to e at the same time: c. CF has a single fiber fineness of 0.033 to 0.111 dtex (0.
0.3-0.1 denier) to a UF consisting of Polymer A; d. The real twisted portion has a structure in which CF and UF coexist and the former is covered by the latter in its cross section; and e. The number of independent continuous filaments in the spread portion is at least 1.5 times or more that of the real twist portion. 9. The ratio of the actual twisted portion and the spread portion in the longitudinal direction of the design processing yarn is 25 to 75% based on the length.
9. The engineered yarn with improved coolability according to claim 8, wherein the yarn is in the range of 75 to 25%. 10. The design yarn as claimed in claim 8, wherein the area of the UF occupying the cross section of the real twist portion is in the range of 20 to 80%. 11. The CF according to claim 8, wherein a part of the CF forming the real twist portion is fused or stuck to each other.
A processed yarn having improved coolability according to the above item. 12. A woven or knitted fabric characterized by comprising at least 30% by weight, based on the weight of a fabric, of the engineered yarn excellent in coolability according to any one of claims 8 to 11. 13. A hard or insoluble thermoplastic polymer A and a readily soluble thermoplastic polymer B which are mutually incompatible and have a dissolution rate ratio of at least 2 in either an organic solvent or an acidic or alkaline solution. Divide polymer A into at least ten by polymer B and one of polymer A is 0.033-0.111 dtex
CFY made of CF arranged to have a thickness of (0.03 to 0.1 denier) is false-twisted under the following false-twisting conditions to provide a false-twisted yarn having a real twisted portion and an open portion. A method for producing a designed yarn. Tm (b) −50 ≦ HT ≦ Tm (a) −10 (1) 1.5 ≦ (S1 / S2) ≦ 2.5 (2) 16.67 ≦ T ≦ 21.56 (3) (However, Tm (B) is the melting point (° C.) of polymer B, Tm
(A) is the melting point (° C.) of the polymer A, HT is the heater temperature (° C.) during false twisting, S1 is the peripheral speed (m / min) of the false twisting tool in false twisting, and S2 is the processing in false twisting. Speed (m / min), T is the yarn tension (cN) during false twisting (twisting). ) 14. The method according to claim 13, wherein the false twisting is a stretch false twisting accompanied by a stretching process. 15. A process for producing a designed yarn having improved refreshability, comprising partially dissolving and removing the polymer B in the designed yarn described in any one of claims 1 to 7. 16. The process according to claim 15, wherein the treatment of dissolving and removing is an alkali weight reduction treatment. 17. The design-processed yarn with improved coolability according to claim 15, wherein the treatment for dissolving and removing is performed after the design-processed yarn is used as at least a part of a warp or a weft to form a woven or knitted fabric. Manufacturing method.