JP6177668B2 - Double layer yarn - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention makes use of the superior points of triacetate short fibers to give woven and knitted fabrics a high-grade glossiness, wearing comfort, anti-pilling properties, water-absorbing quick-drying properties, contact cooling sensation, and appropriate strength. It relates to a multi-layer yarn that can be made.

  Woven knitted fabrics (cotton woven fabrics) made of cotton yarn have excellent wearing comfort such as tension and waist feeling, and are widely used in the clothing field. However, cotton knitted fabrics generally have high water retention, take time to dry after water absorption, and have a problem that a feeling of stickiness tends to remain when sweating. In addition, cotton knitted fabrics have a problem that they have poor contact cooling sensation and it is difficult to obtain a high-quality gloss. Furthermore, woven or knitted fabrics (rayon woven fabrics) made of rayon yarn such as modal or lyocell are also widely used in the clothing field. Rayon knitted fabrics are generally excellent in wearing comfort such as tension and waist and gloss, and have a high quality appearance. However, rayon knitted fabrics have a problem that they have poor anti-pilling properties and take time to dry after water absorption. In addition, there is a problem of lack of contact cooling.

  Then, in order to solve these problems in cotton knitted fabric and rayon knitted fabric, a method using polyester long fibers in combination has been proposed (for example, Patent Document 1).

JP-A-8-209476

  The invention described in the above-mentioned patent document relates to a twisted yarn composed of cotton yarn and polyester continuous fiber yarn. By using this twisted yarn, the drying time after water absorption is greatly increased while maintaining the wearing comfort of the woven or knitted fabric. Can be shortened. However, there is a problem that the anti-pilling property is reduced due to the high Young's modulus of the polyester long fiber yarn, and the glossiness is also reduced. In addition, the problem that the desired cold contact sensitivity cannot be obtained has not been solved.

  The present invention eliminates such disadvantages of the prior art, taking advantage of the superiority of triacetate short fibers, high-quality gloss on knitted and knitted fabrics, wearing comfort, anti-pilling properties, water-absorbing quick-drying Another object of the present invention is to provide a novel multilayer yarn capable of imparting moderate strength in addition to contact cooling sensitivity.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor used triacetate-based short fibers, cellulose-based short fibers, and polyester-based short fibers together in a predetermined amount, and distributes these fibers to a specific portion of the spun yarn. As a result, it has been found that in addition to the excellent texture of woven and knitted fabrics, it is possible to simultaneously impart excellent physical properties such as water-absorbing quick-drying property and contact cooling sensation.

  That is, in the present invention, the core portion is composed of a fiber bundle M including a polyester short fiber A having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 2.0 dtex, and a triacetate short fiber B having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 3.0 dtex. Is a multi-layered yarn in which a sheath is formed from a blended fiber bundle N of cellulose-based short fibers C, and the mass ratio (B / C) of the short fibers B and C constituting the blended fiber bundle N is 20 / It is in the range of 80-80 / 20, the mass ratio (M / N) of the fiber bundles M and N is in the range of 20 / 80-50 / 50, and the average strength satisfies 100 CN or more. The gist is a multi-layer yarn.

  According to the present invention, by taking advantage of the superiority of triacetate short fibers, the woven or knitted fabric has a high-grade glossiness, wearing comfort, anti-pilling properties, water-absorbing quick-drying properties, contact cooling sensation, etc., as well as moderate strength. A novel multilayer yarn can be provided.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The multi-layer yarn of the present invention has been devised in order to make use of the advantages of triacetate short fibers that are excellent in quick-drying and coolness, and at the same time to compensate for the disadvantage of being inferior in strength.
In the multi-layer yarn of the present invention, first, the core portion is composed of a fiber bundle M including polyester short fibers A. As a result, a certain strength can be ensured and further water absorption and quick drying can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. The fiber bundle M preferably contains 60% by mass or more of the polyester short fibers A. As the fibers other than the polyester-based short fibers A to be included in the fiber bundle M, any fibers can be used as long as the strength and the water-absorbing quick-drying property are not impaired.

  The single yarn fineness of the polyester short fiber A needs to be in the range of 0.5 to 2.0 dtex, and is preferably in the range of 1.0 to 1.5 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is less than 0.5 dtex, it is difficult to obtain the short fiber A itself. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness is more than 3.0 dtex, sufficient wearing comfort cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric.

  On the other hand, the sheath portion of the double layer yarn is composed of a blended fiber bundle N of triacetate short fibers B and cellulose short fibers C having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 3.0 dtex. In this way, by arranging the triacetate short fibers B and the cellulose short fibers C on the yarn sheath (outer side), in addition to excellent wearing comfort, glossiness, water-absorbing quick-drying, contact cooling sensitivity, and the like are woven. It can be applied to the knitted fabric.

  As the triacetate short fibers B, cellulose acetate short fibers in which 92% or more of the hydroxyl groups are acetic acid can be preferably used. Further, the official moisture content of the short fiber B is preferably about 3.5% from the viewpoint of quick drying. And about the cross-sectional shape and surface shape of the triacetate type | system | group short fiber B, it does not specifically limit. The single yarn fineness needs to be in the range of 0.5 to 3.0 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is less than 0.5 dtex, the spinnability is remarkably lowered. When the single yarn fineness is more than 3.0 dtex, sufficient wearing comfort cannot be given to the woven or knitted fabric.

  As the cellulose short fibers C to be compounded in the sheath, natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, viscose rayon using cellulose as a raw material, regenerated fibers such as cupra, and solvent-spun cellulose fibers such as lyocell are preferable. Cotton and lyocell are particularly preferred. The cross-sectional shape, surface shape, length, single yarn fineness and the like of the short fiber C are not particularly limited, but it is preferable to select one suitable for cotton spinning in consideration of versatility and productivity.

  The short fibers B and C need to be blended in the blended fiber bundle N at a mass ratio (B / C) of 20/80 to 80/20. When the mass ratio is out of this range, the characteristic derived from only one of the short fibers B and C is strongly reflected in the woven or knitted fabric, and only a characteristic lacking in balance can be obtained. Specifically, when the mass ratio of the triacetate-based short fibers B is less than 20% by mass, high-quality gloss, water-absorbing quick-drying property, and contact cooling sensation cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when it exceeds 80% by mass, the spinnability is lowered, and further, desired wearing comfort and appropriate strength cannot be obtained.

  Furthermore, in the multilayer yarn of the present invention, the mass ratio (M / N) of the fiber bundles M and N needs to be in the range of 20/80 to 50/50. When the mass ratio of the fiber bundle M is less than 20% by mass, only a multi-layer yarn having poor strength can be obtained. Furthermore, sufficient improvement in water absorption and quick drying cannot be expected. On the other hand, when it exceeds 50 mass%, desired wearing comfort, contact cooling sensibility, etc. cannot be obtained.

  Triacetate-based short fibers generally have the disadvantage of being inferior in strength. However, in the present invention, a predetermined amount of cellulose-based short fibers and polyester-based short fibers are used in combination, and these fibers are disposed on a specific portion of the yarn. Make up for the disadvantages. Specifically, the multi-layer yarn of the present invention has an average tenacity of 100 CN or more. By securing such strength, it can be preferably applied to the clothing field.

  The thickness of the multi-layer yarn is not limited as long as it is within the range that can be used for general woven and knitted fabrics. However, in order to maintain the multi-layer structure, it is usually preferable that the multi-layer yarn is thicker than 80 (English cotton count). In particular, from the viewpoint of securing a desired yarn strength, it is preferable that the thickness is larger than 60.

  In order to obtain the multi-layer yarn of the present invention, for example, a sliver A including the short fibers A and a blended sliver N composed of the short fibers B and C are prepared. Each of the sliver and the sliver is spun into the sheath part, or the sliver A and N are separately spun separately, and then the sliver A derived from the sliver A is fed to the core part. And a method of fine spinning while arranging the roving yarn N derived from the sliver N to the sheath. The blended sliver N can be obtained, for example, by mixing fibers in a blended cotton or kneading process during a spinning process.

  In the present invention, it is preferable to employ the former method from the viewpoint of obtaining a multi-layer yarn excellent in covering property.

  In the former method, the sliver N can be wound around the sliver A by introducing the sliver A outside the draft region and the sliver N inside the sliver as seen from the fryer head of the roving machine. Further, during the roving process, N may be sequentially wound around A by setting the delivery amount of the sliver N higher than the delivery amount of the sliver A.

  On the other hand, in the latter method, the feed amount is adjusted so that the amount of the roving yarn N spun from the front roller of the spinning machine is larger than the amount of the roving yarn A, and after spinning, the two are overlapped to form a ring, traveler Just give a real twist.

  In both methods, for the purpose of improving the coverage of the spun yarn, a plurality of N may be used and wound around A, or after spinning, a plurality of multi-layer yarns may be twisted as necessary. May be. In the former method, the composite roving may be finely spun and twisted.

The twist coefficient of the multi-layer yarn is preferably in the range of 2.0 to 4.0. The twist coefficient is an equation of A = T / N ^1/2 (A: twist coefficient, T: number of twists (times / inch), N: thickness of the obtained multi-layer yarn (English cotton count)). It is calculated.

  Further, the fluff index of the multi-layer yarn is not particularly limited. For example, if the compact spin spinning method is used for the purpose of reducing the fluff, the strength of the multi-layer yarn, the glossiness of the woven or knitted fabric, and the cool contact feeling are further improved. Can be improved.

  The multi-layer yarn of the present invention can give excellent texture and physical properties to a woven or knitted fabric. Woven knitted fabric is a general term for woven fabric and knitted fabric. The design of the woven / knitted fabric, that is, the structure, density, basis weight, etc. is not particularly limited. The conditions for weaving and knitting are also arbitrary. Of course, the loom and knitting machine used for weaving and knitting are not particularly limited.

  When obtaining a woven or knitted fabric using the multi-layer yarn of the present invention, it is preferable to mainly use the multi-layer yarn, but other yarns may be used in combination as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.

  The post-processing after weaving and knitting is not particularly limited, and the target woven or knitted fabric can be usually finished by scouring, relaxing, and final setting. During or after the series of post-processing, the fabric may be dyed, colored, embossed, water-repellent, antibacterial, phosphorescent, deodorized, and the like based on known knowledge. Generally, it is preferable to dye after relaxing.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited to these.

  Each measuring method and evaluation method are as follows.

(1) Texture of woven or knitted fabric The evaluation was made in three stages by handling.
○: Good, △: Slightly inferior, ×: Inferior

(2) Glossiness of woven or knitted fabric Judgment was made in three stages by visual observation.
○: Good, △: Slightly inferior, ×: Inferior

(3) Diffusive residual moisture content of woven or knitted fabric 0.6 g of distilled water was dropped in the center on a glass plate placed on a balance. And after putting a data so that a water | moisture content may contact | connect the back surface of the measurement data cut to 10 cm x 10 cm, the weight change was measured and the time until a residual moisture content reached to 10% was measured.

(4) Anti-pilling property of woven or knitted fabric Measured based on JIS L1076 ICI method. Two 100mm x 120mm test pieces are taken in the warp direction and the weft direction, wound around a rubber tube for pilling test, and four test pieces wound around the rubber tube are put into a rotating box of an ICI type testing machine. Rotated for 5 hours. Then, the test piece was removed from the rubber tube, and the test piece and the pilling determination standard photograph were compared to determine the grade of the occurrence of pilling.

(5) Contact cooling sensitivity of woven or knitted fabric (Qmax, W / cm ² )
The maximum heat absorption rate under the condition of DT = 20 ° C. was measured using a precise rapid thermophysical property measuring apparatus (“THERMO RABOII” manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.).

(6) Average strength of multi-layer yarn Using a constant-speed extension type tensile tester, attach the sample to the grip of the tensile tester with the initial load applied, at an extension rate of about 100% of the grip interval per minute. A test was performed, and the load (CN) when the sample was cut was measured. The average of 20 samples was defined as the average strength.

(7) Burst strength of woven and knitted fabrics Measured based on JIS L1018 8.17.1A method (Murren type method).

Example 1
A sliver A comprising polyester short fibers A having a single yarn fineness of 0.9 dtex and an average fiber length of 38 mm was prepared. Further, a triacetate short fiber B (“Bright” manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) having a single yarn chrysanthemum cross section having a single yarn fineness of 1.7 dtex, an average fiber length of 38 mm, and an official moisture content of 3.5%; A blended sliver N made of Supima ultra-long cotton was prepared. This blended sliver N was obtained by mixing triacetate-based short fibers B and Supima ultralong cotton in the process of blended cotton, and the mass ratio (short fiber B / superlong cotton) was 30/70. there were.

  Next, both slivers were introduced into the roving machine, the sliver A was placed outside the draft area as viewed from the flyer head, and the sliver N was placed inside, and the sliver N was wound around the sliver A. A composite roving having a thickness of 240 gelen / 30 yards and a twist number of 0.7 times / inch was obtained. Subsequently, the obtained composite roving was finely spun to obtain a multi-layered yarn having a twist coefficient of 3.8 and a thickness of 40 (English cotton count). In this spun yarn, the mass ratio (M / N) of the core fiber bundle M and the sheath fiber bundle N was 40/60. The resulting multi-layer yarn had moderate strength.

Then, the obtained multi-layer yarn was introduced into a circular knitting machine (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) having a needle density of 18 G and a number of needles of 900, and knitted a milled structure. Thereafter, the knitted fabric was scoured, relaxed, dyed, and finally set to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 168 g / m ² . The dyeing was performed by two-bath dyeing with a disperse dye and a reactive dye. Specifically, a disperse dye (“DianixBlack TA-N200” manufactured by Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.) was dyed at 130 ° C. for 60 minutes using 12% omf, and then a reactive dye (“SUMIFIX SUPRA” manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) was used. It dye | stained for 40 minutes at 60 degreeC using 5% omf.

  The obtained knitted fabric had a deep black color and an elegant gloss, and was excellent in anti-pilling property, water-absorbing quick-drying property, and contact cooling property. Moreover, it had a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, and was excellent in wearing comfort. Furthermore, since the knitted fabric has a certain burst strength value, it is recognized that it has an appropriate strength.

(Example 2)
The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the double layer yarn was introduced into a double-sided circular knitting machine (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) having a hook diameter of 34 inches and a needle density of 22 G, and the basis weight was 185 g. A knitted fabric of / m ² was obtained.

  The obtained knitted fabric, like the knitted fabric in Example 1, had a deep black color and an elegant glossiness, and was excellent in anti-pilling property, water-absorbing quick drying property, and contact cooling property. Moreover, it had a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, and was excellent in wearing comfort. Furthermore, it had moderate strength.

(Example 3)
A multilayer yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the thickness of the composite roving yarn was changed to 180 gelen / 30 yards and the thickness of the multilayer yarn was changed to 60th.

Next, the resulting double layer yarn and 22 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn (“Lycra T127C” manufactured by Tolo Perontex Co., Ltd.) are transferred to a circular knitting machine (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) having a hook diameter of 34 inches and a needle density of 28G. Introduced and knitted bear knitted fabric. Thereafter, the knitted fabric was sequentially preset, tacked, scoured, dyed, and finally set to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 180 g / m ² . As in the case of Example 1, the dyeing was performed by two-bath dyeing with a disperse dye and a reactive dye.

  The obtained knitted fabric, like the knitted fabric in Example 1, had a deep black color and an elegant glossiness, and was excellent in anti-pilling property, water-absorbing quick drying property, and contact cooling property. Moreover, it had a soft texture, was excellent in stretchability and a feeling of swelling, and was excellent in wearing comfort. Furthermore, it had moderate strength.

Example 4
A double layer yarn having a thickness of 40th was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a lyocell short fiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.9 dtex and an average fiber length of 34 mm was used instead of the super long cotton. Thereafter, post-processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric with a basis weight of 150 g / m ² .

  The obtained knitted fabric, like the knitted fabric in Example 1, had a deep black color and an elegant glossiness, and was excellent in anti-pilling property, water-absorbing quick drying property, and contact cooling property. Moreover, it had a soft texture and a feeling of swelling, and was excellent in wearing comfort. Furthermore, it had moderate strength.

(Comparative Example 1)
Except changing the mass ratio of the short fiber B and the super long cotton (short fiber B / super long cotton) to 90/10, it was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a double layer yarn having a thickness of 40. Thereafter, post-processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 152 g / m ² .

  The resulting multi-layer yarn was poor in spinnability and had many neps and yarn spots. Further, it was inferior in strength to the yarn of Example 1. Moreover, although the knitted fabric was very excellent in the deep black and the elegant glossiness derived from the triacetate short fiber B, it was somewhat inferior in the wearing comfort derived from the super long cotton.

(Comparative Example 2)
Aside from using polyester short fibers instead of Supima super long cotton, and the mass ratio of triacetate short fibers B to polyester short fibers (short fibers B / super long cotton) in blended sliver N to 50/50 Was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a double-layer yarn having a thickness of 40. Thereafter, post-processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 168 g / m ² .

  The resulting knitted fabric had a deep black color derived from the triacetate short fibers B, but the polyester short fibers were arranged in the multi-layer yarn sheath, so the anti-pilling property of the knitted fabric was reduced. As a result, the glossiness was also reduced.

  The evaluation results of the knitted fabric obtained above are shown in Table 1.

Claims (1)

A core portion is composed of a fiber bundle M containing polyester short fibers A having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 2.0 dtex, and a triacetate short fiber B and a cellulose short fiber C having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 to 3.0 dtex. A multi-layered yarn in which a sheath portion is formed from a blended fiber bundle N, and a mass ratio (B / C) of short fibers B and C constituting the blended fiber bundle N is 20/80 to 80/20 A multilayer yarn characterized by being in a range, having a mass ratio (M / N) of fiber bundles M and N in a range of 20/80 to 50/50, and satisfying an average strength of 100 CN or more.