JP2011252244A - Spun yarn used in knitted fabric for clothes excellent in wearing comfortableness, heat retaining property and moisture absorbability - Google Patents

Spun yarn used in knitted fabric for clothes excellent in wearing comfortableness, heat retaining property and moisture absorbability Download PDF

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JP2011252244A
JP2011252244A JP2010125465A JP2010125465A JP2011252244A JP 2011252244 A JP2011252244 A JP 2011252244A JP 2010125465 A JP2010125465 A JP 2010125465A JP 2010125465 A JP2010125465 A JP 2010125465A JP 2011252244 A JP2011252244 A JP 2011252244A
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knitted fabric
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JP5403624B2 (en
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Yuji Hamaguchi
雄二 浜口
Nagahiro Kuroda
修広 黒田
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Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a fabric for clothes that is extremely soft, thin and excellent in wearing comfortableness and has excellent heat retaining property and moisture absorbability.SOLUTION: The spun yarn includes 60 wt.% or more of a cellulose-based short fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.2-1.0 dtex and an acrylic short fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.1-1.1 dtex in a weight ratio of 15:85-70:30. The knitted fabric using the spun yarn can achieve a heat insulating ratio of 16-30%, and a coefficient of moisture absorption of 3-15% in a basis weight of 60-130 g/mand a thickness of 0.2-0.7 mm.

Description

本発明は、極めて柔軟で薄くて着心地が良く、しかも保温性及び吸湿性に優れた衣料用編地を得るために好適な紡績糸に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a spun yarn suitable for obtaining a knitted fabric for clothing that is extremely soft, thin, comfortable to wear, and excellent in heat retention and moisture absorption.

従来、秋冬に着用する衣料用布帛においては、冬の寒さに対応するための保温性を高める工夫や、着用中の快適性を向上させる検討がされてきた。保温性を高めるための技術としては、布帛内に熱伝導性の低い空気を多く持たせるための工夫がされている。例えば、編組織を検討して嵩高性を高めたり、中空繊維を用いて繊維中に空気を含んだもの、高収縮糸を使って、染色加工後の糸収縮差を応用したもの等がある。しかしながら、保温性を高めると編地が厚くなったり、柔軟性が低下して着心地が悪くなってしまう問題があった。   2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in clothing fabrics worn in autumn and winter, studies have been made to improve heat retention to cope with winter cold and to improve comfort during wearing. As a technique for improving the heat retaining property, a device for giving a lot of air having low thermal conductivity in the fabric has been devised. For example, the knitting structure is examined to increase bulkiness, hollow fibers are used to contain air in the fibers, and high shrinkage yarns are used to apply the yarn shrinkage difference after dyeing. However, when the heat retaining property is increased, there is a problem that the knitted fabric becomes thick or the flexibility is lowered and the comfort is deteriorated.

例えば、特許文献1では、表面層と裏面層とを結接糸でタックしてなり、該結接糸が中空糸で構成されている保温編地が提案されている。この編地は、保温性αが18%以上とあるようにある程度保温性が向上しているが、編地の厚さ及び目付けに関しては十分満足できる値ではない。また、特許文献2では、外層が単糸繊度0.2〜3.0dtexの繊維から構成され、編地の少なくとも一層が45コース以上/inchかつ45ウエール以上/inchの編目密度を有し、編地の通気度が5〜50cc/cm・secであって、吸水加工が施された保温編地が提案されている。この編地は、高捲縮糸や高収縮糸を用いて高密度にすることによって保温性を得ているので、編地が重くなる問題があった。 For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a heat insulating knitted fabric in which a front surface layer and a back surface layer are tucked with a binding yarn, and the binding yarn is composed of a hollow fiber. This knitted fabric is improved in heat retention to some extent so that the heat retention α is 18% or more, but the thickness and basis weight of the knitted fabric are not sufficiently satisfactory values. In Patent Document 2, the outer layer is composed of fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 to 3.0 dtex, and at least one layer of the knitted fabric has a stitch density of 45 courses / inch and 45 wales / inch or more, A heat insulating knitted fabric having a ground air permeability of 5 to 50 cc / cm 2 · sec and subjected to water absorption processing has been proposed. This knitted fabric has a problem that the knitted fabric becomes heavy because heat retention is obtained by increasing the density using high crimped yarns or high shrinkage yarns.

さらに、編地の柔軟性を高める手段として、マイクロファイバーを使ったものが提案されている。例えば、特許文献3では、柔軟かつ膨らみのある風合いで、しかも非常に緻密で、発色性にも優れた超極細繊維織編物を得るのに適した超極細複合繊維、および該超極細複合繊維を用いた超極細繊維織編物の製造方法が提案され、特許文献4では、着用・洗濯を繰り返しても高い柔軟性を維持し、表面形態安定性に優れた肌着用途に適した布帛が提案されている。しかしながら、これらの方法では柔軟な布帛を得ることはできるが、保温性が低かったり、吸湿性が低かったり、また生地が分厚くて着心地が良くなかったりして、必ずしも冬用衣料として十分に快適なものではなかった。   Further, as means for increasing the flexibility of the knitted fabric, one using a microfiber has been proposed. For example, in Patent Document 3, a superfine composite fiber suitable for obtaining a superfine fiber woven or knitted fabric having a soft and swelled texture, which is very dense and excellent in color developability, and the superfine composite fiber are disclosed. The manufacturing method of the used super fine fiber woven / knitted fabric is proposed, and Patent Document 4 proposes a fabric suitable for an underwear application that maintains high flexibility even after repeated wearing and washing, and has excellent surface form stability. Yes. However, although it is possible to obtain a flexible fabric by these methods, it is not always comfortable enough for winter clothing due to low heat retention, low hygroscopicity, and thick and uncomfortable fabric. It was not something.

一方、マイクロファイバーと高吸湿繊維を用いて、吸湿発熱と微細空隙からなる空気層から保温性を高めることも検討されている。例えば、特許文献5では、体温を長時間にわたって維持し、体から熱を逃がし難い、保温性に優れた衣料用に適した紡績糸として、単糸繊度が0.1〜1.3dtexの疎水性合成繊維を40質量%以上含み、環境を20℃、40%RHから20℃、90%RHに変化させた時の吸湿発熱量が15J/g以上である吸湿発熱性繊維を30質量%以上含む紡績糸が提案されている。しかしながら、この方法では、保温性の維持や、ムレを防ぎ、長時間の着用において不快感の少ない衣料素材として好適ではあるが、編物として厚みがあり、十分に柔らかくないので、必ずしも着心地の良い編地が得られなかった。   On the other hand, using microfibers and highly hygroscopic fibers to improve heat retention from an air layer composed of hygroscopic heat generation and fine voids has also been studied. For example, in Patent Document 5, as a spun yarn suitable for clothing that maintains body temperature for a long time, does not easily release heat from the body, and has excellent heat retention, a single yarn fineness of 0.1 to 1.3 dtex is hydrophobic. Contains 40% by mass or more of synthetic fibers, and contains 30% by mass or more of hygroscopic exothermic fibers whose hygroscopic heat generation amount is 15 J / g or more when the environment is changed from 20 ° C., 40% RH to 20 ° C., 90% RH. Spinned yarn has been proposed. However, this method is suitable as a clothing material that maintains heat retention and prevents stuffiness and has less discomfort when worn for a long time, but is thick as a knitted fabric and is not sufficiently soft, so it is not always comfortable to wear. The knitted fabric was not obtained.

このように秋冬インナー用の布帛において、編地の厚みや組織の検討、中空繊維やマイクロファイバーなどの特性により空気層を多く取ることで保温性を得る従来の技術では、厚みが大きくなる傾向にあり、薄さや柔らかさの点から見て満足できるものではなく、糸の番手についても素材特性上、細い糸を作ることが難しかった。このため保温性及び吸湿性を高めながら、薄くて柔らかい編地を製造できないのが現状であった。   In this way, in the fabric for innerwear in autumn and winter, the conventional technology for obtaining heat retention by taking a lot of air layers by examining the thickness and structure of the knitted fabric and the characteristics of hollow fibers and microfibers tends to increase the thickness. However, it was not satisfactory from the viewpoint of thinness and softness, and it was difficult to make a thin thread because of the material characteristics of the thread count. For this reason, the present condition is that a thin and soft knitted fabric cannot be manufactured, improving heat retention and moisture absorption.

特開2002−235264公報JP 2002-235264 A 特開2002−363843号公報JP 2002-363443 A 特開平09−256225号公報JP 09-256225 A 特開2002−294564号公報JP 2002-294564 A 特開2003−227043号公報JP 2003-227043 A

本発明は、上記従来技術の現状に鑑み創案されたものであり、その目的は、秋冬用の衣料として、保温性と吸湿性を持ちながら、非常に柔軟で薄くて着心地に優れたものとするために好適な紡績糸、及びそれを用いた編地を提供することにある。   The present invention was invented in view of the current state of the prior art described above, and its purpose is to be extremely flexible, thin and excellent in comfort as a clothing for autumn and winter while having heat retention and moisture absorption. It is an object of the present invention to provide a suitable spun yarn and a knitted fabric using the spun yarn.

本発明者らは上記目的を達成するために鋭意検討した結果、極細化したセルロース系短繊維を使って作った紡績糸は柔軟性が極端に向上して、ポリエステル等の他の極細繊維で作った紡績糸に比べても非常に優れた柔軟性が得られることを見出した。しかしながら、極細セルロース系短繊維は、繊維強度が低く、繊維の水分率が高いために接触冷感が高く保温性も低いので、そのままでは保温性の高い、実用的な強力を持った紡績糸を得ることができないという問題がある。そこで、本発明者らは更に鋭意検討した結果、極細セルロース系短繊維と極細アクリル系短繊維を使って細い紡績糸にすることによって、柔らかくて薄く、しかも保温性と吸湿性があり、快適な秋冬用の衣料編地に好適な紡績糸が提供できることを見出し、本発明の完成に至った。   As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the inventors of the present invention have made a spun yarn made using ultrafine cellulose-based short fibers with extremely improved flexibility and made of other ultrafine fibers such as polyester. It has been found that very excellent flexibility can be obtained compared with the spun yarn. However, ultrafine cellulosic short fibers have a low fiber strength and a high moisture content of the fiber, so they have a high feeling of contact cooling and low heat retention. Therefore, it is necessary to produce spun yarn with high heat retention and practical strength. There is a problem that cannot be obtained. Therefore, as a result of further intensive studies, the present inventors have made thin spun yarn using ultrafine cellulose short fibers and ultrafine acrylic short fibers, so that they are soft and thin, yet have heat retention and moisture absorption, and are comfortable. The inventors have found that a spun yarn suitable for a knitted fabric for autumn and winter can be provided, and have completed the present invention.

即ち、本発明は、以下の(1)〜(4)の構成を有するものである。
(1)0.2〜1.0dtexの単繊維繊度を有するセルロース系短繊維と0.1〜1.1dtexの単繊維繊度を有するアクリル系短繊維とを15:85〜70:30の重量比で60重量%以上含有することを特徴とする紡績糸。
(2)繊維構成本数が70〜250本であることを特徴とする(1)に記載の紡績糸。
(3)(1)又は(2)に記載の紡績糸を50重量%以上含有することを特徴とする衣料用編地。
(4)目付が60〜130g/mであり、厚みが0.2〜0.7mmであり、保温率が16〜30%であり、吸湿率が3〜15%であることを特徴とする(3)に記載の衣料用編地。
That is, the present invention has the following configurations (1) to (4).
(1) Weight ratio of 15:85 to 70:30 of cellulose short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 1.0 dtex and acrylic short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.1 to 1.1 dtex A spun yarn characterized by containing at least 60% by weight.
(2) The spun yarn according to (1), wherein the number of fibers is 70 to 250.
(3) A knitted fabric for clothing, comprising 50% by weight or more of the spun yarn according to (1) or (2).
(4) basis weight is 60~130g / m 2, a thickness of 0.2 to 0.7 mm, heat retention is 16 to 30%, wherein the moisture absorption rate is 3% to 15% The knitted fabric for clothing described in (3).

本発明の紡績糸は、特定の極細セルロース系短繊維と極細アクリル系短繊維を特定の割合で含有しているので、柔らかくて着用感(風合)が良く、薄くて軽量で嵩張らず、保温性と吸湿性もあって、快適な秋冬用衣料品、特にインナー素材に求められる快適性能を満足する編地を好適に提供することができる。また、本発明の紡績糸は、実用的な強度を持ち、紡績性、編立性にも優れる。   The spun yarn of the present invention contains specific ultra-fine cellulose short fibers and ultra-fine acrylic short fibers in a specific ratio, so it is soft and comfortable to wear (feel), is thin, light and not bulky, and keeps warm. Therefore, it is possible to suitably provide a knitted fabric satisfying the comfortable performance required for comfortable clothing for autumn and winter, particularly the inner material. The spun yarn of the present invention has practical strength and is excellent in spinnability and knitting.

実施例で使用した編組織(片袋、スムース)を示す。The knitting structure (single bag, smooth) used in the examples is shown. 実施例2の紡績糸の断面写真を示す。The cross-sectional photograph of the spun yarn of Example 2 is shown.

本発明の紡績糸は、0.2〜1.0dtexの単繊維繊度を有するセルロース系短繊維と0.1〜1.1dtexの単繊維繊度を有するアクリル系短繊維とを60重量%以上含有するものであり、前記セルロース系短繊維と前記アクリル系短繊維の重量比が10:90〜70:30であることを特徴とするものである。本発明の紡績糸は、上記のような二種類の極細繊維を使用することにより細くて柔らかい糸を紡出することができるとともに、高い保温性と吸湿性を備えたものである。   The spun yarn of the present invention contains 60% by weight or more of cellulose short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 1.0 dtex and acrylic short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.1 to 1.1 dtex. The weight ratio of the cellulose short fibers and the acrylic short fibers is 10:90 to 70:30. The spun yarn of the present invention is capable of spinning a thin and soft yarn by using the two types of ultrafine fibers as described above, and has high heat retention and moisture absorption.

本発明の紡績糸に使用するセルロース系短繊維としては、再生セルロース繊維、半合成繊維、溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維、綿、麻に代表される天然繊維が挙げられる。これらの中では、再生セルロース繊維または溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維が好ましい。再生セルロース系繊維としては、キュプラアンモニウムレーヨン、ビスコースレーヨン、ポリノジックレーヨン、ハイウエットモジュラスレーヨンなどが例示される。また、溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維とは、特定の溶剤にパルプを溶解して得た紡糸原液を、特定の手段で紡糸して得られたものである。具体的には、N−メチルモルフォリン−N−オキサイド、ジメチルスルホキシド、N−メチルピペリジン−N−オキサイド、ジメチルアセトアミドなどの溶剤にパルプを溶解し、濾過して不純物を除去した後、得られた紡糸原液を乾式紡糸又は湿式紡糸することにより、当該繊維を得ることができる。溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維としては、リヨセル、テンセルなどが例示される。   Examples of the cellulose short fibers used in the spun yarn of the present invention include regenerated cellulose fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, solvent-spun cellulose fibers, natural fibers represented by cotton and hemp. Of these, regenerated cellulose fibers or solvent-spun cellulose fibers are preferred. Examples of the regenerated cellulose fiber include cupra ammonium rayon, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon, and high wet modulus rayon. The solvent-spun cellulose fiber is obtained by spinning a spinning stock solution obtained by dissolving pulp in a specific solvent by a specific means. Specifically, it was obtained after dissolving pulp in a solvent such as N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide, dimethyl sulfoxide, N-methylpiperidine-N-oxide, dimethylacetamide, and removing impurities by filtration. The fiber can be obtained by dry spinning or wet spinning the spinning dope. Examples of solvent-spun cellulose fibers include lyocell and tencel.

セルロース系短繊維の単繊維繊度は0.2〜1.0dtexであり、好ましくは0.3dtex〜0.9dtex、より好ましくは0.3dtex〜0.8dtex、更に好ましくは0.3dtex〜0.7dtexである。短繊維繊度が上記範囲未満の場合、染色したときの色濃度が極端に低下して、混紡糸の均一な染色性が得られにくくなる。また、上記範囲を越えると、細番手糸を紡出するのが難しくなるとともに風合いも硬くなってくる。   The single fiber fineness of the cellulosic short fibers is 0.2 to 1.0 dtex, preferably 0.3 dtex to 0.9 dtex, more preferably 0.3 dtex to 0.8 dtex, and still more preferably 0.3 dtex to 0.7 dtex. It is. When the short fiber fineness is less than the above range, the color density when dyeing is extremely lowered, and it becomes difficult to obtain uniform dyeability of the blended yarn. When the above range is exceeded, it becomes difficult to spin fine yarn and the texture becomes hard.

また、本発明の紡績糸に使用するアクリル系短繊維は、アクリロニトリルを50重量%以上含有するアクリロニトリル系ポリマーからなることが好ましい。アクリロニトリル系ポリマーがアクリロニトリルを50重量%以上含有する場合、アクリロニトリル単独ポリマーであってもよいが、経済性の点でアクリロニトリルとアクリロニトリルに共重合可能な不飽和モノマーとのコポリマーであり、アクリロニトリルを50〜95重量%含有するコポリマーであることが望ましい。アクリロニトリルの含有量が50重量%未満では、染色鮮明性、発色性等のアクリル繊維としての特徴が発揮されず、また熱特性をはじめとする他の物性も低下する傾向となる。   The acrylic short fibers used for the spun yarn of the present invention are preferably made of an acrylonitrile polymer containing 50% by weight or more of acrylonitrile. When the acrylonitrile-based polymer contains 50% by weight or more of acrylonitrile, it may be an acrylonitrile homopolymer, but in terms of economy, it is a copolymer of acrylonitrile and an unsaturated monomer copolymerizable with acrylonitrile. A copolymer containing 95% by weight is desirable. When the content of acrylonitrile is less than 50% by weight, characteristics as acrylic fibers such as dyeing vividness and color developability are not exhibited, and other physical properties such as thermal characteristics tend to be lowered.

アクリロニトリルに共重合可能な不飽和モノマーとしては、例えばアクリル酸メチル、アクリル酸エチル、アクリル酸イソプロピル、アクリル酸n−ブチル、アクリル酸2ーエチルヘキシル、アクリル酸2ーヒドロキシエチル、アクリル酸ヒドロキシプロピル等のアクリル酸エステル、メタクリル酸エチル、メタクリル酸イソプロピル、メタクリル酸n−ブチル、メタクリル酸イソブチル、メタクリル酸t−ブチル、メタクリル酸n−ヘキシル、メタクリル酸シクロヘキシル、メタクリル酸ラウリル、メタクリル酸2ーヒドロキシエチル、メタクリル酸ヒドロキシプロピル、メタクリル酸ジエチルアミノエチル等のメタクリル酸エステル、アクリル酸、メタクリル酸、マレイン酸、イタコン酸、アクリルアミド、N−メチロールアクリルアミド、ジアセトンアクリルアミド、スチレン、ビニルトルエン、酢酸ビニル、塩化ビニル、塩化ビニリデン、臭化ビニル、臭化ビニリデン、フッ化ビニル、フッ化ビニリデン等の不飽和モノマー等が挙げられる。   Examples of unsaturated monomers copolymerizable with acrylonitrile include methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and hydroxypropyl acrylate. Acrylic acid ester, ethyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, methacryl Methacrylic acid ester such as hydroxypropyl acid, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, acrylamide, N-methylolacrylamido , Diacetone acrylamide, styrene, vinyl toluene, vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, vinyl bromide, vinylidene bromide, vinyl fluoride, include unsaturated monomers such as vinylidene fluoride.

さらに、染色性等改良の目的で共重合可能なモノマーとしては、p−スルホフェニルメタリルエーテル、メタリルスルホン酸、アリルスルホン酸、スチレンスルホン酸、2ーアクリルアミドー2ーメチルプロパンスルホン酸、及びこれらのアルカリ金属塩等が挙げられる。   Further, monomers that can be copolymerized for the purpose of improving dyeability and the like include p-sulfophenyl methallyl ether, methallyl sulfonic acid, allyl sulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and these Alkali metal salts and the like.

アクリロニトリル系ポリマーの分子量は、アクリル繊維の製造に通常用いられる範囲のものであれば特に限定されないが、分子量が低すぎると、紡糸性が低下すると同時に原糸の糸質も悪化する傾向にあり、分子量が高すぎると、紡糸原液に最適粘度を与えるポリマー濃度が低くなり、生産性が低下する傾向にあるので、紡糸条件に従って適宜選択される。   The molecular weight of the acrylonitrile-based polymer is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range usually used for the production of acrylic fibers, but if the molecular weight is too low, the spinnability tends to deteriorate and the yarn quality of the raw yarn tends to deteriorate, If the molecular weight is too high, the polymer concentration that gives the optimum viscosity to the spinning dope tends to be low, and the productivity tends to decrease, so it is appropriately selected according to the spinning conditions.

アクリル系短繊維の製造方法は特に限定されないが、例えばアクリロニトリルを50重量%以上含有するアクリロニトリル系ポリマーを、溶剤に溶解して紡糸原液とし、紡糸するという湿式紡糸法により製造することができる。紡糸の際に用いられる溶剤としては、ジメチルアセトアミド、ジメチルホルムアミド、ジメチルスルホキシド、エチレンカーボネート、プロピレンカーボネート、γーブチロラクトン、アセトン等の有機溶剤、硝酸、ロダン酸ソーダ、塩化亜鉛等の無機溶剤が挙げられる。   The method for producing the acrylic short fibers is not particularly limited. For example, the acrylic short fibers can be produced by a wet spinning method in which an acrylonitrile polymer containing 50% by weight or more of acrylonitrile is dissolved in a solvent to form a spinning dope and spinning. Examples of the solvent used for spinning include dimethylacetamide, dimethylformamide, dimethylsulfoxide, organic solvents such as ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, γ-butyrolactone, and acetone, and inorganic solvents such as nitric acid, sodium rhodanate, and zinc chloride. .

アクリル系短繊維の単繊維繊度は0.1〜1.1dtexであり、好ましくは0.1〜0.9dtex、より好ましくは0.1〜0.7dtex、更に好ましくは0.1〜0.6dtexである。短繊維繊度が上記範囲未満では、染色したときの色濃度が極端に低下して、混紡糸の均一な染色性が得られにくくなる。また、上記範囲を越えると、細番手糸を紡出するのが難しくなるとともに風合いも硬くなってくる。   The single fiber fineness of the acrylic short fiber is 0.1 to 1.1 dtex, preferably 0.1 to 0.9 dtex, more preferably 0.1 to 0.7 dtex, and still more preferably 0.1 to 0.6 dtex. It is. When the short fiber fineness is less than the above range, the color density when dyeing is extremely lowered, and it becomes difficult to obtain uniform dyeability of the blended yarn. When the above range is exceeded, it becomes difficult to spin fine yarn and the texture becomes hard.

本発明の紡績糸中のセルロース系短繊維とアクリル系短繊維の混率比は重量比で15:85〜70:30であり、好ましくは20:80〜70:30、より好ましくは30:70〜70:30、更に好ましくは35:65〜65:35である。セルロース系短繊維の混率が上記範囲から外れると、柔軟性が得られないとともに目標とする吸湿性も得られなくなり、また上記範囲を超えると吸湿性は上がるものの保温性が低下する。また、紡績糸中のセルロース系短繊維とアクリル系短繊維を合わせた混紡率は60重量%以上、より好ましくは70重量%以上、更に好ましくは80重量%以上である。混紡率が上記範囲未満であると、目的とする保温性、吸湿性が得られ難くなる。   The mixing ratio of the cellulose short fibers and the acrylic short fibers in the spun yarn of the present invention is 15:85 to 70:30, preferably 20:80 to 70:30, more preferably 30:70 to wt. 70:30, more preferably 35:65 to 65:35. If the mixing ratio of the cellulose short fibers is out of the above range, flexibility cannot be obtained and the target hygroscopicity cannot be obtained. If the mixing ratio exceeds the above range, the hygroscopicity is increased, but the heat retaining property is lowered. Further, the blending ratio of the cellulose short fibers and the acrylic short fibers in the spun yarn is 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, and further preferably 80% by weight or more. When the blending ratio is less than the above range, it is difficult to obtain the desired heat retention and moisture absorption.

本発明の紡績糸の繊維構成本数は70〜250本であることが好ましい。構成本数は構成繊維の繊度を考慮して設定すればよいが、70本未満の場合、糸としての必要構成本数が不足するために糸強度が低く、紡績性が悪くなるおそれがあり、250本を越えると、糸番手が60番手より太くなり、本発明の目的とする軽量・薄地の編地が得られないおそれがある。   The number of fibers constituting the spun yarn of the present invention is preferably 70 to 250. The number of constituents may be set in consideration of the fineness of the constituent fibers. However, when the number is less than 70, the necessary number of constituent yarns is insufficient, so that the yarn strength is low and the spinnability may be deteriorated. If it exceeds 1, the yarn count becomes thicker than the 60th count, and there is a possibility that the lightweight and thin knitted fabric targeted by the present invention cannot be obtained.

本発明の紡績糸の繊度は英式番手で60〜200番手であることが好ましく、より好ましくは70〜120番手、更に好ましくは70〜100番手である。番手が上記範囲より太い場合、本発明の目的とする薄くて、軽くて、暖かい編地を得ることが難しくなる。また、上記範囲より細い場合、編地が薄くなりすぎて保温性が低下し、生地強度が基準に達成できなくなる。本発明の紡績糸の撚係数(K)は3.0〜4.5であることが好ましく、より好ましくは3.2〜4.0である。撚係数が上記範囲未満の場合、風合いは柔らかくなるものの、糸強度が低下し、紡績性、製編性が悪くなり、生産が困難になる。また、上記範囲を超えると、紡績性、製編性が良くなるが、風合いが硬くなってしまう。本発明に利用できる紡績方法としては、リング精紡、MVS、中空スピンドル精紡等があり、特にリング精紡が、糸強度が高く、糸質も良く、細番手化も容易であり、汎用性も高いため、好適である。   The fineness of the spun yarn of the present invention is preferably an English count of 60 to 200, more preferably 70 to 120, and even more preferably 70 to 100. When the count is thicker than the above range, it becomes difficult to obtain a thin, light and warm knitted fabric which is the object of the present invention. On the other hand, if it is thinner than the above range, the knitted fabric becomes too thin, the heat retaining property is lowered, and the fabric strength cannot be achieved based on the standard. The twist coefficient (K) of the spun yarn of the present invention is preferably 3.0 to 4.5, more preferably 3.2 to 4.0. When the twist coefficient is less than the above range, the texture becomes soft, but the yarn strength is lowered, the spinnability and the knitting property are deteriorated, and the production becomes difficult. On the other hand, if the above range is exceeded, the spinning property and the knitting property are improved, but the texture becomes hard. Spinning methods that can be used in the present invention include ring spinning, MVS, hollow spindle spinning, etc. Particularly, ring spinning has high yarn strength, good yarn quality, easy fine count, and versatility. Since it is high, it is preferable.

本発明の紡績糸によって作られた編地は、保温性と吸湿性に優れながら、薄くて軽く柔軟性を持つことを特徴とする。従って、本発明の編地は、薄くて軽い特徴を示す指標として、目付が好ましくは60〜130g/m、より好ましくは80〜100g/mであり、厚みが好ましくは0.2〜0.7mm、より好ましくは0.3〜0.6mmである。目付けが上記範囲未満では温かさが得られないし、上記範囲を越えると本発明が意図する軽い編地の範疇を超えてしまう。また、厚みが上記範囲未満では薄くなりすぎて温かさが実感できないし、上記範囲を越えると本発明が意図する薄い生地の範疇から外れてしまう。 The knitted fabric made of the spun yarn of the present invention is characterized by being thin, light and flexible while being excellent in heat retention and moisture absorption. Therefore, the knitted fabric of the present invention has a basis weight of preferably 60 to 130 g / m 2 , more preferably 80 to 100 g / m 2 , and a thickness of preferably 0.2 to 0 as an indicator of thin and light features. 0.7 mm, more preferably 0.3 to 0.6 mm. If the basis weight is less than the above range, warmth cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds the above range, it will exceed the category of light knitted fabrics intended by the present invention. In addition, if the thickness is less than the above range, it becomes too thin to feel the warmth, and if it exceeds the above range, it falls outside the range of the thin fabric intended by the present invention.

本発明の編地は、編組織を特に限定しないが、厚みが薄くなるように考慮すべきである。例えば、本発明の編地としては、丸編のシングルニット、ダブルニット又は経編でも良い。編地の厚みが大きくなり難い組織で好適なものとしては、フライス、片袋、天竺、ミラノリブ、リバーシブル、ベア天竺、ベアフライス等がある。薄くて軽い素材とするにはこれらの編組織を適正な密度に設定することが好ましい。適正密度は編み組織により変動するが、ウエール数25〜40/inch、コース数35〜60/inchの範囲で適宜設定すればよい。本発明の紡績糸を使用した編地は、上述の目付と厚みでありながら、16〜30%の保温率、3〜15%の吸湿率を達成することができる。   The knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited in the knitted structure, but should be considered so that the thickness is reduced. For example, the knitted fabric of the present invention may be a circular knit single knit, double knit, or warp knitting. As a structure suitable for a structure in which the thickness of the knitted fabric is not easily increased, there are a milling cutter, a single bag, a tengu, a Milan rib, a reversible, a bear tengu, a bear milling, and the like. In order to obtain a thin and light material, it is preferable to set these knitting structures to an appropriate density. The appropriate density varies depending on the knitting structure, but may be set as appropriate within a range of 25 to 40 / inch wales and 35 to 60 / inch courses. The knitted fabric using the spun yarn of the present invention can achieve a heat retention rate of 16 to 30% and a moisture absorption rate of 3 to 15% while having the above-mentioned basis weight and thickness.

本発明の編地は、上記混紡糸の混率が60重量%を下回らない範囲で、他の糸を交編することができる。しかし、この場合、薄くて軽い特性を維持するために用いる糸は英式番手で言う80番手以上の細い糸条であることが好ましい。交編糸は、80番手以上の細い糸であれば特に限定しないが、例えば50dtex以下のフィラメントや、紡績糸または複合糸が好適に用いられる。交編される他の糸としては、具体的にはナイロンやポリエステルのフィラメントまたはその仮撚加工糸であったり、短繊維や長繊維と弾性繊維を複合した被覆弾性糸がある。被覆弾性糸としては、フィラメントと弾性糸を合撚したFTY(フィラメント ツイスティッド ヤーン)、シングル(ダブル)カバーリング糸、エアーカバード糸、仮撚加工と同時混繊する仮撚複合糸等が用いられる。短繊維と弾性糸との複合糸としては、コアスパンヤーン、プライヤーン等が用いられる。弾性糸はポリウレタン系スパンデックス、ポリオレフィン系弾性糸、ポリエステル系弾性糸、ポリエステル系潜在捲縮糸等を用いることができる。弾性糸の繊度は22dtex以下のものを用いることが好適である。繊度が22dtexを超えると混繊糸繊度が大きくなってしまったり、混繊する非弾性糸とのバランスが悪くなる。混繊時の弾性糸ドラフト率は1.8〜2.8倍の低倍率にする方が良い。更に好適には1.8〜2.2倍程度である。弾性糸ドラフト率が上記範囲を越えると、伸縮のパワーが強すぎて編地の収縮が大きくなり、薄くて軽い編地を得難くなる。上記範囲未満の場合は、ストレッチバックが不十分となり、インナーとして着用時に横方向に伸びて戻らない現象が発生する。また、FTYの製造においても糸切れが多く安定生産が困難になる。   In the knitted fabric of the present invention, other yarns can be knitted in a range where the blend ratio of the blended yarn does not fall below 60% by weight. However, in this case, it is preferable that the yarn used for maintaining the thin and light characteristics is a thin yarn of 80 or more in terms of English count. The knit yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is a fine yarn of 80 count or more. For example, a filament of 50 dtex or less, a spun yarn or a composite yarn is preferably used. As other yarns to be knitted, there are specifically nylon or polyester filaments or false twisted yarns, and short elastic fibers or covered elastic yarns composed of long fibers and elastic fibers. As the coated elastic yarn, FTY (filament twisted yarn) in which a filament and an elastic yarn are twisted, a single (double) covering yarn, an air covered yarn, a false twist composite yarn that is mixed simultaneously with false twist processing, and the like are used. . As the composite yarn of the short fiber and the elastic yarn, a core spun yarn, a pliers or the like is used. As the elastic yarn, polyurethane-based spandex, polyolefin-based elastic yarn, polyester-based elastic yarn, polyester-based latent crimped yarn, or the like can be used. The fineness of the elastic yarn is preferably 22 dtex or less. When the fineness exceeds 22 dtex, the fineness of the mixed yarn becomes large or the balance with the inelastic yarn to be mixed becomes worse. It is better to make the draft ratio of the elastic yarn at the time of blending a low magnification of 1.8 to 2.8 times. More preferably, it is about 1.8 to 2.2 times. When the elastic yarn draft ratio exceeds the above range, the expansion / contraction power is too strong and the shrinkage of the knitted fabric increases, making it difficult to obtain a thin and light knitted fabric. When it is less than the above range, the stretch back becomes insufficient, and a phenomenon that does not stretch back in the lateral direction when worn as an inner occurs. Also, in the manufacture of FTY, there are many yarn breaks, making stable production difficult.

例えば、本発明の編地では、66dtex以下のナイロン被覆弾性糸を40重量%以下の割合で交編することができる。好ましくは、44dtex以下のナイロン被覆弾性糸として20dtex以下のポリウレタン弾性糸とナイロンフィラメントを用い、これを交編して片袋とする。この場合の破裂強度は250〜350kPaである。   For example, in the knitted fabric of the present invention, nylon-coated elastic yarns of 66 dtex or less can be knitted at a ratio of 40% by weight or less. Preferably, a polyurethane elastic yarn of 20 dtex or less and a nylon filament are used as a nylon-coated elastic yarn of 44 dtex or less, and these are knitted to form a single bag. In this case, the burst strength is 250 to 350 kPa.

本発明の編地の染色加工は、通常のアクリル繊維や、他の繊維との混用編地の加工方法であれば良いが、本発明の紡績糸の繊維間空隙構造を潰さないよう注意して加工することが必要である。例えば、乾燥や熱処理時に必要以上に編地にテンションや厚み方向の圧縮等をかけて加工しないこと等が求められる。また、精練や染色等の後に液温を下げるときに、急速に行なうとアクリル繊維がへたるため、降温はゆっくり行なうようにする。   The dyeing process of the knitted fabric of the present invention may be an ordinary acrylic fiber or a method of processing a mixed knitted fabric with other fibers, but care should be taken not to crush the inter-fiber void structure of the spun yarn of the present invention. It is necessary to process. For example, it is required not to process the knitted fabric with tension or compression in the thickness direction more than necessary during drying or heat treatment. In addition, when the liquid temperature is lowered after scouring or dyeing, the acrylic fiber will drip if done rapidly, so the temperature should be lowered slowly.

本発明の編地には、柔軟剤や帯電防止剤のような一般的な仕上加工剤を付与することが好ましく、その他の各種機能加工が単独または併用して施されていても良い。機能加工の例としては、親水加工などの防汚加工、UVカット加工、静電加工、スキンケア加工などがあるが、これに限定されるものではない。   The knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably provided with a general finishing agent such as a softening agent or an antistatic agent, and other various functional processings may be applied alone or in combination. Examples of functional processing include, but are not limited to, antifouling processing such as hydrophilic processing, UV cut processing, electrostatic processing, skin care processing, and the like.

本発明の紡績糸を使用した編地は、曲げ剛性が低くて非常に柔らかく、厚みが薄くても保温性が高く、吸湿性が良好である。本発明の編地の曲げ剛性は、KESの曲げ剛性(B値)のたて・よこの平均値が0.001〜0.005となり、より好適には0.001〜0.003であり、更に好適には0.001〜0.002である。また、本発明の編地は、保温率が16%〜30%の範囲となり、より好適には18〜30%である。また、吸湿性が3%〜15%となり、より好適には6〜15%である。   The knitted fabric using the spun yarn of the present invention has a low bending rigidity and is very soft. Even if the thickness is small, the knitted fabric has a high heat retention and a good hygroscopicity. As for the bending rigidity of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the average value of the bending rigidity (B value) of KES is 0.001 to 0.005, more preferably 0.001 to 0.003, More preferably, it is 0.001 to 0.002. The knitted fabric of the present invention has a heat retention rate in the range of 16% to 30%, and more preferably 18 to 30%. Further, the hygroscopicity is 3% to 15%, and more preferably 6 to 15%.

次に実施例、比較例を用いて本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例に限定されるものではない。これらの実施例における変更は、本発明の趣旨を逸脱しない限り、本発明の技術的範囲に含まれる。なお、本発明で用いた特性値の測定法は以下の通りである。   Next, the present invention will be specifically described using examples and comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Changes in these embodiments are included in the technical scope of the present invention without departing from the spirit of the present invention. In addition, the measuring method of the characteristic value used by this invention is as follows.

<短繊維繊度>
使用する原綿の短繊維繊度は、JIS−L−1019−6.4.1の綿繊維試験方法のマイクロネアによる方法に従って測定した。
<Short fiber fineness>
The short fiber fineness of the raw cotton used was measured in accordance with the micronaire method of the cotton fiber test method of JIS-L-1019-6.4.1.

<紡績糸の繊度>
JIS−L−1095−9.4.1の一般紡績糸試験法の正量テックス・番手測定の綿番手測定方法に従って測定した。
<Fineness of spun yarn>
It measured according to the cotton count measurement method of the positive amount tex / count measurement of the general spun yarn test method of JIS-L-1095-9.4.1.

<保温率>
カトーテック社製のサーモラボIIを用い、20℃、65%RHの環境下で、BT−BOXのBT板(熱板)を人の皮膚温度を想定して35℃に設定し、その上に試料を置き、熱移動量が平衡になったときの消費電力量Wを測定する。また、試料を置かない条件での消費電力量W0を計測する。以下の式で保温率を計算する。
保温率(%)={(W0−W)/W0}×100
BT板は、10cm×10cmのサイズであるが、試料は20cm×20cmのサイズとする。通常は試料を熱板に接触させて測定するが、本発明の保温率は熱板の上に断熱性のある発砲スチロール等のスペーサーを設置して試料との空隙を5mm設けて計測を行なう。
<Heat retention rate>
Using a thermolab II manufactured by Kato Tech, set the BT-BOX BT plate (hot plate) to 35 ° C, assuming a human skin temperature, in an environment of 20 ° C and 65% RH. And measure the power consumption W when the amount of heat transfer is balanced. Further, the power consumption amount W0 under the condition where no sample is placed is measured. The heat retention rate is calculated by the following formula.
Thermal insulation rate (%) = {(W0−W) / W0} × 100
The BT plate has a size of 10 cm × 10 cm, but the sample has a size of 20 cm × 20 cm. Usually, the sample is contacted with a hot plate, and the heat retention rate of the present invention is measured by providing a spacer such as a fired polystyrene having a heat insulating property on the hot plate and providing a gap of 5 mm from the sample.

<編地の厚み>
JIS−L−1018−6.5のメリヤス生地試験方法の厚さに従って測定した。
<Thickness of knitted fabric>
It measured according to the thickness of the knitted fabric test method of JIS-L-1018-6.5.

<編地の目付>
JIS−L−1018−6.4.2のメリヤス生地の試験方法の備考の目付けに従って測定した。
<Weight of knitted fabric>
It measured according to the basis weight of the remarks of the test method of knitted fabric of JIS-L-1018-6.4.2.

<編地の曲げ剛性>
KES−FB2方法でカトーテック社製純曲げ試験機を用いて生地のたて・よこ平均の曲げ剛性値(B)を評価した。たて・よこの測定の回数をそれぞれn=3として、たて・よこの平均を曲げ剛性の値とした。測定環境は20±2℃、65±2%RHである。
<Bending stiffness of knitted fabric>
The bending stiffness value (B) of the warp / width average of the fabric was evaluated by a KES-FB2 method using a pure bending tester manufactured by Kato Tech. The number of measurements of the length and width was n = 3, and the average of the length and width was taken as the value of bending stiffness. The measurement environment is 20 ± 2 ° C. and 65 ± 2% RH.

<紡績糸の強度>
JIS−L−1095−9.5.1の一般紡績糸の試験法の「単糸引っ張り強さ」に従って測定した。試験条件は定速伸長型を用いて測定した。
<Strength of spun yarn>
It was measured according to “Single Yarn Tensile Strength” in the test method for general spun yarn of JIS-L-1095-9.5.1. The test conditions were measured using a constant speed extension type.

<編地から取出した紡績糸の繊維構成本数、繊維混率、単繊維繊度>
混紡糸を編地より取り出し、糸種別に素材混率、糸番手を測定する。糸番手はJIS−L1095−9.4.1一般紡績糸の正量テックス・番手測定の綿番手測定方法により測定する。素材混率測定については、JIS−L1030の繊維製品の混用率試験方法の各方法を適宜用いる。繊維構成本数については、樹脂包埋法を用いて、紡績糸の横断面を写真撮影して構成本数を数える。包埋の方法は、紡績糸一本を真っ直ぐな状態にしてエポキシ系樹脂で包埋して、ミクロトームを用いて、繊維軸に直角に糸断面の切片を切りだす。光学顕微鏡により切出した繊維断面を写真撮影する。この写真における糸断面を形成している繊維本数を目視で数える。測定回数n=20の平均値を繊維構成本数とした。なお、この樹脂包埋は、繊維断面写真をとるための一般的な方法を用いれば良い。また、形状、繊度だけで繊維種を判断できない場合は、染色を施して色によって判断することができる。測定後、各々糸の番手、素材の混用率とその本数にしたがって各繊維の繊度を算出する。
<The number of fibers constituting the spun yarn taken out from the knitted fabric, the fiber mixture ratio, the single fiber fineness>
The blended yarn is taken out from the knitted fabric, and the material mixture ratio and yarn count are measured for each yarn type. The yarn count is measured by a cotton count measuring method of JIS-L1095-9.4. For the material mixture ratio measurement, each method of the JIS-L1030 fiber product mixture ratio test method is appropriately used. Regarding the number of constituent fibers, the cross section of the spun yarn is photographed using the resin embedding method and the number of constituents is counted. In the embedding method, one spun yarn is straightened and embedded with an epoxy resin, and a cross section of the yarn is cut at right angles to the fiber axis using a microtome. A photograph is taken of a fiber cross section cut out by an optical microscope. The number of fibers forming the yarn cross section in this photograph is counted visually. The average value of the number of measurements n = 20 was defined as the number of fiber components. The resin embedding may be performed using a general method for taking a fiber cross-sectional photograph. Further, when the fiber type cannot be determined only by the shape and fineness, it can be determined by color after dyeing. After the measurement, the fineness of each fiber is calculated according to the yarn count, the material mixture ratio and the number of the yarns.

<編地の破裂強度>
JIS−L−1018の破裂強さA法に従って測定した。
<Rupture strength of knitted fabric>
The burst strength was measured according to the JIS-L-1018 burst strength A method.

<編地の吸湿性>
JIS−L−1018−8.6のニット生地試験法の水分率の方法に従って測定した。
<Hygroscopicity of knitted fabric>
It was measured according to the moisture content method of the knit fabric test method of JIS-L-1018-8.6.

<紡績性>
精紡機の糸切れ本数(本/400錘・1時間)で判断した。
評価基準は0〜5本(良好)、6〜10本(やや悪い)、10本以上(悪い)とした。
<Spinning>
Judgment was made based on the number of yarn breakage of the spinning machine (pieces / 400 spindles / hour).
The evaluation criteria were 0 to 5 (good), 6 to 10 (somewhat bad), and 10 or more (bad).

<編立性>
編地6kgを編む間の編機の停台回数(回/6kg)で評価した。
評価基準は0〜3回(良好)、4〜7回(やや悪い)、8回以上(悪い)とした。
<Knitting>
The knitting machine was evaluated for the number of stops (times / 6 kg) during knitting of 6 kg of knitted fabric.
The evaluation criteria were 0 to 3 times (good), 4 to 7 times (somewhat bad), and 8 times or more (bad).

実施例1
極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製ブライトタイプ(BH)0.6dtex、繊維長32mm)20重量%と、極細タイプのアクリル短繊維(日本エクスラン工業製UF8−0.3Tタイプ、0.3dtex、繊維長32mm)80重量%を、OHARA製混綿機を用いて混綿混紡した後に石川製作所製カード機を用いてカードスライバーとし、原織機製練条機に2回通して250ゲレン/6ydのスライバーとした。更に、このスライバーを豊田自動織機製粗紡機に通して60ゲレン/15ydの粗糸を作成した。そして、豊田自動織機製リング精紡機を用いてドラフト40倍、トラベラ回転数9000rpmで紡出して英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。そのときの撚係数(K)は3.8(撚数34T/inch)で、繊維構成本数が219本であった。この紡績糸と柿木社製のカバーリング機を用いて東洋紡績製ポリウレタン繊維エスパ(登録商標)タイプT71で 17dtexをドラフト2.2倍で低ドラフトし、東洋紡績製ポリアミド繊維シルファイン(登録商標)セミダル丸断面の28dtex−30fを550T/Mの撚数、スピンドル回転数8000r/mにてカバーリングして得られたナイロンFTY17T/28Tを交編して18′′−18Gのフライス編機(永田精機製)により片袋を編成した。編成時の条件は、編成糸長で前記短繊維紡績糸を430mm/100ウエール、前記FTYを230mm/100Wとした。実施例1の片袋の編組織を図1に示す。
Example 1
Extra fine type rayon short fiber (Daiwabo Rayon bright type (BH) 0.6 dtex, fiber length 32 mm) 20% by weight, extra fine type acrylic short fiber (Japan Exlan Industrial UF8-0.3T type, 0.3 dtex, (Fiber length 32 mm) 80% by weight was blended with an OHARA blender and then made into a card sliver using a card machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho. did. Further, this sliver was passed through a Toyoda Automatic Loom Co., Ltd. to produce a 60 gelen / 15 yd roving. Then, using a ring spinning machine manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation, spinning was performed at a draft of 40 times and a traveler rotation speed of 9000 rpm to obtain a spun yarn of English count 80's. The twist coefficient (K) at that time was 3.8 (twist number 34 T / inch), and the number of fiber components was 219. Using this spun yarn and a covering machine manufactured by Kashiwagi Co., Ltd., Toyobo's polyurethane fiber ESPAR (registered trademark) type T71, 17 dtex was drafted at a draft of 2.2 times, and Toyobo's polyamide fiber Silfine (registered trademark) Nylon FTY17T / 28T obtained by covering 28dtex-30f with a semi-dull cross section at 550T / M twist number and spindle rotation speed 8000r / m to knitting 18 ″ -18G milling machine (Nagata) A single bag was knitted by Seiki). The knitting conditions were knitting yarn length, the short fiber spun yarn was 430 mm / 100 wale, and the FTY was 230 mm / 100 W. The knitting structure of the single bag of Example 1 is shown in FIG.

得られた生機を以下の条件で精練した。
日阪製作所製液流染色機NSタイプを用いて、編地を開反せず後述の処理条件及び精練処方で精練した。湯洗3回・水洗1回を行った後、染色機から編地を取り出して遠心脱水した後、ヒラノテクシード製シュリンクサーファードライヤーを用いて乾燥(120℃×3分)を行なった。
処理条件:浴比1:15、95℃×30分
精練処方:精練剤(第一工業製薬(株)製ノイゲンHC)1g/l、金属イオン封鎖剤(日華化学(株)製ネオクリスタルGC1000)1g/l、ソーダ灰0.5g/l
乾燥時に経方向に編地が伸びないようにテンションに注意した。
The obtained raw machine was refined under the following conditions.
Using a liquid dyeing machine NS type manufactured by Nisaka Seisakusho, the knitted fabric was not opened but scoured under the processing conditions and scouring recipe described below. After three times of hot water washing and one time of water washing, the knitted fabric was taken out from the dyeing machine, centrifuged and dehydrated, and then dried (120 ° C. × 3 minutes) using a shrink surfer dryer made by Hirano Techseed.
Treatment conditions: bath ratio 1:15, 95 ° C. × 30 minutes Scouring prescription: Scouring agent (Neugen HC manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) 1 g / l, sequestering agent (Neocrystal GC1000 manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) ) 1g / l, soda ash 0.5g / l
Attention was paid to the tension so that the knitted fabric would not stretch in the warp direction during drying.

次に、日阪製作所製液流染色機NSタイプを用いて反応染料でレーヨンを染色してソーピング・中和し、引続いて分散型カチオン染料(アクリル)と、酸性染料(ナイロン)を同浴染色してソーピング・湯洗した。その後、浴中柔軟処理して染色機から取出して脱水、乾燥した。各染色条件及び処方を下記に示す。
<反応染色>
染色条件:浴比1:10、染色温度60℃×60分
染色反応染料(住化ケムテックス(株)製Sumifix Supra BLUE BRF)1%owf
浴中柔軟剤(パーソフタルMAX)2g/L
無水芒硝(東ソー(株)製)30g/L
アルカリ剤(明成化学工業(株)製MS171)5g/L
<カチオン・酸性染色>
染色条件:浴比1:15 95℃×45分
染色処方:pH調整剤(酢酸0.2g/l,染色浴をpH=4に調整する)
均染剤(明成化学工業(株)製ディスパーTL)1g/l
分散型カチオン染料(日本化薬Kayacril light Blue 4GSL−ED)1.0%owf
酸性染料(日本化薬製Kayanol Blue NR)1.0%owf
柔軟処理:クラリアント社製サンドパームMEJ―50リキッド 1.0%owf
Next, using a liquid dyeing machine NS type manufactured by Nisaka Manufacturing Co., Ltd., dyeing rayon with reactive dye, soaping and neutralizing, followed by dispersive cationic dye (acrylic) and acid dye (nylon) in the same bath It was dyed, soaped and washed in hot water. After that, it was softened in the bath, taken out from the dyeing machine, dehydrated and dried. Each dyeing condition and prescription are shown below.
<Reactive dyeing>
Dyeing conditions: bath ratio 1:10, dyeing temperature 60 ° C. × 60 minutes, dyeing reaction dye (Sumitix Supra BLUE BRF manufactured by Sumika Chemtex Co., Ltd.) 1% owf
Softener in bath (Persophthal MAX) 2g / L
Anhydrous salt glass (manufactured by Tosoh Corporation) 30g / L
Alkaline agent (MS171 manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 5g / L
<Cation / acid dyeing>
Dyeing conditions: bath ratio 1:15 95 ° C. × 45 minutes Dyeing recipe: pH adjuster (acetic acid 0.2 g / l, dye bath adjusted to pH = 4)
Leveling agent (Disper TL manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 1g / l
Dispersion type cationic dye (Nippon Kayaku Kayacryl light Blue 4GSL-ED) 1.0% owf
Acid dye (Nippon Kayaku Kayanol Blue NR) 1.0% owf
Flexible treatment: Clariant Sand Palm MEJ-50 Liquid 1.0% owf

乾燥後に開反して、テンターにて巾出しセットを行って性量調整し、最終的に目付100g/mの編地を得た。密度の粗い面を表としたときの表面の編地密度が36ウエール(W)/inch、45コース(C)/inchの編地を得た。実施例1の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。 After drying, the fabric was opened and set with a tenter to adjust the quality, and finally a knitted fabric with a basis weight of 100 g / m 2 was obtained. A knitted fabric having a surface knitted fabric density of 36 wales (W) / inch and 45 courses (C) / inch when the surface having a rough density was used as a table was obtained. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 1.

実施例2
実施例1の極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維と極細タイプのアクリル短繊維をそれぞれ50重量%、50重量%の混率に変えた以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は183本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例2の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。また、実施例2の紡績糸の断面写真を図2に示す。
Example 2
A spun yarn of English count 80's was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ultrafine type rayon short fiber and the ultrafine type acrylic short fiber of Example 1 were changed to 50% by weight and 50% by weight, respectively. Obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 183. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows the details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 2. Moreover, the cross-sectional photograph of the spun yarn of Example 2 is shown in FIG.

実施例3
実施例1の極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維と極細タイプのアクリル短繊維をそれぞれ60重量%、40重量%の混率に変えた以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は171本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例3の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 3
A spun yarn with an English count of 80's was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ultrafine type rayon short fiber and the ultrafine type acrylic short fiber in Example 1 were changed to 60% by weight and 40% by weight, respectively. Obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 171. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 3 are shown in Table 1.

実施例4
実施例1の極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維と極細タイプのアクリル短繊維をそれぞれ20重量%、60重量%にし、さらに、綿(スーピマ)を20重量%混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は182本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例4の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 4
The same procedure as in Example 1 was conducted except that the ultrafine type rayon short fiber and the ultrafine type acrylic short fiber of Example 1 were mixed at 20% by weight and 60% by weight, respectively, and cotton (Supima) was mixed at 20% by weight. A spun yarn of the formula number 80's was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 182. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 4 are shown in Table 1.

実施例5
超極細レーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製BH0.3Tタイプ、0.3dtex、繊維長32mm)50重量%と、実施例1の極細タイプのアクリル短繊維50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は244本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例5の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 5
Same as Example 1 except that 50% by weight of ultra-fine fine rayon short fibers (DHWABORAYON BH0.3T type, 0.3 dtex, fiber length 32 mm) and 50% by weight of ultrafine acrylic short fibers of Example 1 were blended. In this way, a spun yarn of English count 80's was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 244. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 5.

実施例6
レーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製BH0.9Tタイプ、0.9dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、実施例1の極細アクリル短繊維50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は163本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同じ方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例6の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 6
The English style was the same as in Example 1 except that 50% by weight of rayon short fibers (BH 0.9T type, Daiwabo Rayon BH 0.9T type, fiber length 38 mm) and 50% by weight of the ultrafine acrylic short fibers of Example 1 were blended. A spun yarn having a count of 80's was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 163. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 6.

実施例7
レーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製BH0.9Tタイプ、0.9dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、極細アクリル短繊維(0.1dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は371本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例7の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 7
Example 1 except that 50% by weight of rayon staple fiber (DHWABO Rayon BH0.9T type, 0.9 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) and 50% by weight of ultrafine acrylic staple fiber (0.1 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) are blended. Similarly, a spun yarn with an English count of 80's was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 371. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 7.

実施例8
レーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製BH0.9Tタイプ、0.9dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、極細アクリル短繊維(0.5dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は134本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例8の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 8
Example 1 except that 50% by weight of rayon short fibers (DHWABO Rayon BH0.9T type, 0.9 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) and 50% by weight of ultrafine acrylic short fibers (0.5 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) are blended. Similarly, a spun yarn with an English count of 80's was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 134. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 8 are shown in Table 1.

実施例9
レーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製BH0.9Tタイプ、0.9dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、アクリル短繊維(1.0dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は78本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例9の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 9
Example 1 except that 50% by weight of rayon short fibers (BH 0.9T type manufactured by Daiwabo Rayon, 0.9 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) and 50% by weight of acrylic short fibers (1.0 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) were blended. In this way, a spun yarn of English count 80's was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 78. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 9.

実施例10
実施例1の極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維をグラフト加工してグラフト率18%で吸湿率18%の改質レーヨンを得た。グラフト加工の処方を下記に示す。
<グラフト加工処方>
メタクリル酸モノマー(三菱ガス化学製)45%owf
キレート剤(キレスト製キレストNTB)0.45%
硫酸(60°Be)0.72%owf
硫酸第一鉄アンモニウム(和光純薬工業製)0.45%owf
35%過酸化水素水4.5%owf
オーバーマイヤー染色機を使用して浴比1:9.4で80℃×120分処理した。
その後、中和・オイリング処理して、紡績に供した。
実施例1の極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維20重量%と、実施例1の極細タイプのアクリル短繊維50重量%と、上記のグラフト加工した改質レーヨン30重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は183本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。実施例10の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 10
The ultrathin type rayon short fiber of Example 1 was grafted to obtain a modified rayon having a graft rate of 18% and a moisture absorption rate of 18%. The formulation for grafting is shown below.
<Graft processing prescription>
Methacrylic acid monomer (Mitsubishi Gas Chemical) 45% owf
Chelating agent (Cyrest NTB made by Kirest) 0.45%
Sulfuric acid (60 ° Be) 0.72% owf
Ferrous ammonium sulfate (Wako Pure Chemical Industries) 0.45% owf
35% hydrogen peroxide solution 4.5% owf
It processed at 80 degreeC * 120 minutes by the bath ratio 1: 9.4 using the over Meyer dyeing machine.
Thereafter, neutralization and oiling treatment was performed and the mixture was subjected to spinning.
Example 1 except that 20% by weight of ultrafine type rayon short fiber of Example 1, 50% by weight of ultrafine type acrylic short fiber of Example 1 and 30% by weight of the above modified grafted rayon were blended. Similarly, a spun yarn with an English count of 80's was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 183. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 10.

実施例11
レーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製BH0.9Tタイプ、0.9dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、極細アクリル短繊維(0.3dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%を混紡して英式番手80′sの紡績糸を得た。このときの繊維構成本数は163本であった。この糸を用いて30′′−22Gのダブルニット編機(福原精機)によりスムースを編成した。編成時の条件は、編成糸長240mm/100ウエールである。実施例11のスムースの編組織を図1に示す。次いで実施例1と同様にして染色加工して編地を得た。実施例11の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Example 11
Mixing 50% by weight of rayon staple fiber (DAIWABO RAYON BH0.9T type, 0.9dtex, fiber length 38mm) and 50% by weight of ultrafine acrylic staple fiber (0.3dtex, fiber length 38mm) s spun yarn was obtained. The number of fiber components at this time was 163. Using this yarn, smooth was knitted by a 30 ″ -22G double knit knitting machine (Fukuhara Seiki). The knitting condition is a knitting yarn length of 240 mm / 100 wale. The smooth knitting structure of Example 11 is shown in FIG. Next, a knitted fabric was obtained by dyeing in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Example 11.

比較例1
レギュラーレーヨン繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製RBタイプ、1.4dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、レギュラータイプのアクリル短繊維(日本エクスラン工業製K8−1.3Tタイプ、1.3dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sを得た。このときの繊維構成本数は54本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。比較例1の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Comparative Example 1
50% by weight of regular rayon fiber (RB type made by Daiwabo Rayon, 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) and 50% regular type acrylic short fiber (K8-1.3T type, 1.3 dtex, fiber length 38 mm by Nippon Exlan Industries) An English count 80's was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the blending was carried out by weight%. The number of fiber components at this time was 54. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1.

比較例2
レギュラーレーヨン繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製RBタイプ、1.4dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、レギュラータイプのアクリル短繊維(日本エクスラン工業製、1.0dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sを得た。このときの繊維構成本数は62本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。比較例2の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Comparative Example 2
Other than blending 50% by weight of regular rayon fibers (RB type made by Daiwabo Rayon, 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) and 50% by weight of regular acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan, 1.0 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) Obtained the English count 80's in the same manner as in Example 1. The number of fiber components at this time was 62. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2.

比較例3
極細レーヨン短繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製BH0.9Tタイプ、0.9dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、レギュラータイプのアクリル短繊維(日本エクスラン工業製K8−1.3Tタイプ、1.3dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%を混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sを得た。このときの繊維構成本数は69本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。比較例3の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Comparative Example 3
50% by weight of ultra-fine rayon short fiber (DAIWABO RAYON BH0.9T type, 0.9 dtex, fiber length 38 mm), regular type acrylic short fiber (Nippon Exlan Industrial K8-1.3T type, 1.3 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) English count 80's was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 50 wt% was blended. The number of fiber components at this time was 69. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 3 are shown in Table 1.

比較例4
レギュラーレーヨン繊維(ダイワボウレーヨン製RBタイプ、1.4dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%と、レギュラータイプのアクリル短繊維(日本エクスラン工業製K8−1.3タイプ、1.3dtex、繊維長38mm)50重量%とを混紡した以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手100′sを得た。このときの繊維構成本数は44本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。比較例4の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Comparative Example 4
50% by weight of regular rayon fiber (RB type made by Daiwabo Rayon, 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm) and 50% regular type acrylic short fiber (K8-1.3 type, 1.3 dtex, fiber length 38 mm by Nippon Exlan Industries) An English count 100's was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except for blending with wt%. The number of fiber components at this time was 44. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 4 are shown in Table 1.

比較例5
実施例1の極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維と極細タイプのアクリル短繊維をそれぞれ80重量%、20重量%の混率に変えた以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sを得た。このときの繊維構成本数は147本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。比較例5の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Comparative Example 5
An English count 80's was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ultrafine type rayon short fiber and the ultrafine type acrylic short fiber of Example 1 were changed to a mixing ratio of 80% by weight and 20% by weight, respectively. The number of fiber components at this time was 147. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 5 are shown in Table 1.

比較例6
実施例1の極細タイプのレーヨン短繊維と極細タイプのアクリル短繊維をそれぞれ10重量%、90重量%の混率に変えた以外は実施例1と同様にして英式番手80′sを得た。このときの繊維構成本数は233本であった。この糸とナイロンFTYを実施例1と同様の方法で編成、染色加工して編地を得た。比較例6の紡績糸と編地の詳細と評価結果を表1に示す。
Comparative Example 6
An English count 80's was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ultrafine type rayon short fiber and the ultrafine type acrylic short fiber of Example 1 were changed to a mixing ratio of 10% by weight and 90% by weight, respectively. The number of fiber components at this time was 233. This yarn and nylon FTY were knitted and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The details and evaluation results of the spun yarn and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 6 are shown in Table 1.

表1の評価結果から明らかなように実施例1〜11の紡績糸から得られた編地は、保温率、吸湿率、柔軟性(曲げ剛性)、生地強度、紡績性、編立性の全ての特性で優れていたが、比較例1〜6のものはいずれかの特性に問題があった。   As is clear from the evaluation results in Table 1, the knitted fabric obtained from the spun yarns of Examples 1 to 11 has all of the heat retention rate, moisture absorption rate, flexibility (bending rigidity), fabric strength, spinnability, and knitting property. However, those of Comparative Examples 1 to 6 had a problem in any of the characteristics.

本発明の紡績糸は、特定の極細セルロース系短繊維と極細アクリル系短繊維を特定の割合で含有しているので、柔らかくて着用感(風合)が良く、薄くて軽量で嵩張らず、保温性と吸湿性もあって、快適な秋冬用衣料品を好適に提供することができる。   The spun yarn of the present invention contains specific ultra-fine cellulose short fibers and ultra-fine acrylic short fibers in a specific ratio, so it is soft and comfortable to wear (feel), is thin, light and not bulky, and keeps warm. Comfortable autumn and winter clothing can be suitably provided because of its properties and hygroscopicity.

Claims (4)

0.2〜1.0dtexの単繊維繊度を有するセルロース系短繊維と0.1〜1.1dtexの単繊維繊度を有するアクリル系短繊維とを15:85〜70:30の重量比で60重量%以上含有することを特徴とする紡績糸。   Cellulose short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.2 to 1.0 dtex and acrylic short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.1 to 1.1 dtex in a weight ratio of 15:85 to 70:30 are 60 weights. A spun yarn characterized by containing at least%. 繊維構成本数が70〜250本であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の紡績糸。   The spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the number of fibers is 70 to 250. 請求項1又は2に記載の紡績糸を50重量%以上含有することを特徴とする衣料用編地。   A knitted fabric for clothing comprising 50% by weight or more of the spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2. 目付が60〜130g/mであり、厚みが0.2〜0.7mmであり、保温率が16〜30%であり、吸湿率が3〜15%であることを特徴とする請求項3に記載の衣料用編地。 Basis weight is 60~130g / m 2, a thickness of 0.2 to 0.7 mm, heat retention is 16 to 30% claim 3, wherein the moisture absorption rate is 3% to 15% The knitted fabric for clothing described in 1.
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