JP6536591B2 - Knitting fabric excellent in heat retention and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Knitting fabric excellent in heat retention and method for producing the same Download PDF

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JP6536591B2
JP6536591B2 JP2016564113A JP2016564113A JP6536591B2 JP 6536591 B2 JP6536591 B2 JP 6536591B2 JP 2016564113 A JP2016564113 A JP 2016564113A JP 2016564113 A JP2016564113 A JP 2016564113A JP 6536591 B2 JP6536591 B2 JP 6536591B2
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yarn
knitted fabric
spun yarn
knitted
mass
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JPWO2017069180A1 (en
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慎吾 中橋
慎吾 中橋
秀人 団
秀人 団
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Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Description

本発明は、目付が小さく軽量でありながら、保温性に優れた編地とその製造方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a knitted fabric excellent in heat retention while having a small basis weight and light weight, and a method of manufacturing the same.

近年の保温肌着用の編地開発においては、吸湿発熱性能等の機能性付与が中心となっているが、単純に機能性繊維を組み合わせるだけでは、編地の風合いが損なわれかねない。また保温性を良くするには編地を厚くするのが効果的であるが、厚手の肌着は着膨れすることにより動作に支障をきたし、作業性を損なう可能性があることから、軽量でかつ風合いが良く温かな肌着用の編地開発が求められている。   In recent years, in the development of knitted fabric with thermal insulation for wearing on the skin, functionalization such as moisture absorption and heat generation performance has mainly been performed, but the texture of the knitted fabric may be impaired simply by combining functional fibers. In addition, it is effective to thicken the knitted fabric to improve heat retention, but a thick underwear may interfere with the operation due to the bulging, which may impair the workability, so it is lightweight and has a texture. There is a need for the development of knitwear with good and warm skin.

特許文献1には、紡績糸とフィラメント糸の交編による編地の作成方法が提案されているが、用いられる紡績糸には収縮性繊維が含まれておらず、非収縮繊維の紡績糸とフィラメント糸との交編編地であり、軽量感はあるものの、保温性は十分でなかった。   Patent Document 1 proposes a method for producing a knitted fabric by cross knitting of a spun yarn and a filament yarn, but the spun yarn used does not contain a shrinkable fiber, and a spun yarn of non-shrinkage fiber and Although it is a knitted fabric with a filament yarn and has a feeling of lightness, the heat retaining property was not sufficient.

特許文献2には、高収縮繊維を用いる紡績糸の製造方法が記載されているが、この方法は精紡工程にて高収縮繊維を混ぜ合わせる加工方法であり、紡績糸は綛工程で湿熱加工することで糸に収縮を発現させたのちに、横編み工程で編地作成に適用されるに好適な軽量紡績糸を作成する方法であることから、編地としては良好な保温性が得られるものの、その保温性を確保しようとすると編地の目付や布厚を大きくせざるを得なくなり、編地を軽量にすることができなかった。   Although the manufacturing method of the spun yarn using high shrinkage fiber is described in patent document 2, this method is a processing method which mixes high shrinkage fiber together in the spinning process, and the spun yarn is wet heat processed in the winding process. Since it is a method of producing a lightweight spun yarn suitable to be applied to the preparation of a knitted fabric in a weft knitting process after the contraction of the yarn is made to express, it is possible to obtain good heat retention as a knitted fabric However, in order to secure its heat retaining property, it is necessary to increase the fabric weight and thickness of the knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric can not be made lightweight.

特開2012−167410号公報JP, 2012-167410, A 特開2013−253334号公報JP, 2013-253334, A

本発明の目的は、目付が小さく軽量でありながら、保温性に優れた編地を提供することにあり、またこうした軽量で保温性に優れた編地を商業的に得ることにある。   An object of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric excellent in heat retention while having a small basis weight and light weight, and commercially available as such a lightweight and heat maintainable knitted fabric.

かかる目的を達成するため、本発明の要旨は次のとおりである。
1.熱収縮させたアクリル繊維を含有し、伸度が15%〜30%であり、メートル番手で30番手〜65番手の糸である紡績糸Aと、メートル番手で40番手〜350番手である糸B、前記紡績糸Aで2コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているか、前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているか、前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで2コース編成されて交編されているか、または、前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで3コース編成されて交編されてなる編地。
2.前記アクリル繊維の熱収縮させる前の沸水収縮率が30%〜45%である前記1に記載の編地。
.保温率が30%以上である前記1または2に記載の編地。
.編地の目付が100g/m〜200g/mである前記1〜3のいずれかに記載の編地。
.(保温率)/(編地の目付)が、0.18〜0.35である前記1〜のいずれかに記載の編地。
.前記編地に対する前記紡績糸Aの混率が35質量%〜95質量%である前記1〜のいずれかに記載の編地。
.前記紡績糸Aの嵩高性が8cm/g〜20cm/gである前記1〜のいずれかに記載の編地。
.前記編地に対する前記糸Bの混率が5質量%〜65質量%である前記1〜のいずれかに記載の編地。
.前記紡績糸Aが、アクリル繊維を100質量%含有する紡績糸またはアクリル繊維を30質量%以上含有し、他の繊維としてセルロース系繊維及び獣毛繊維の群から選ばれる1種以上を含有する紡績糸である前記1〜のいずれかに記載の編地。
10.前記糸Bがフィラメント加工糸、紡績糸及び弾性糸の群から選ばれる1種以上である前記1〜のいずれかに記載の編地。
11.沸水収縮率が30%〜45%であるアクリル繊維を30質量%〜45質量%含む紡績糸aと、糸の太さが、メートル番手で40番手〜350番手である糸Bとを、前記紡績糸aで2コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成するか、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成するか、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで2コース編成するか、または、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで3コース編成し交編して編成生地を作製し、該編成生地を70℃以上の湿熱で加熱して、前記紡績糸aに含まれる高収縮性繊維を熱収縮させて紡績糸Aとした編地とし、該編地を構成する紡績糸Aを前記紡績糸aより太くかつメートル番手で30番手〜70番手の太さである編地の製造方法。
12.前記紡績糸aは、メートル番手が50番手〜100番手である前記11に記載の編地の製造方法。
13.前記編成生地の目付を60g/m〜120g/mとし、該編成生地を70℃以上の湿熱で加熱して編地の目付を100g/m〜200g/mとする前記11または12に記載の編地の製造方法。
14.前記紡績糸aとして、撚係数が95〜110の撚りのある紡績糸を用いる前記1113のいずれかに記載の編地の製造方法。
15.前記糸Bとして、フィラメント加工糸、紡績糸及び弾性糸の群から選ばれる1種以上を用いる前記1114のいずれかに記載の編地の製造方法。
16.編地の編成に際し、10ゲージ〜14ゲージの丸編機を用いる前記1115のいずれかに記載の編地の製造方法。
The gist of the present invention is as follows in order to achieve such an object.
1. A spun yarn A which contains heat-shrinkable acrylic fiber and has an elongation of 15% to 30%, and a yarn of 30 to 65 with a metric count, and a yarn B of 40 to 350 with a metric but wherein either spun yarn A in subsequently be two courses knitted is knitted one course by the yarn B have been mixed knitting, the are knitted one course in and subsequently is knitted one course by the spun yarn A the yarn B to exchange The yarn is knitted or one course knitted by the spun yarn A and subsequently knitted by two courses knitted by the yarn B and interwoven , or one course knitted by the spun yarn A and subsequently by the yarn B 3 is course organized mixed knitting has been made knitted fabric.
2. The knitted fabric according to the above 1, wherein the boiling water shrinkage before heat shrinking of the acrylic fiber is 30% to 45%.
3 . The knitted fabric according to the above 1 or 2 , wherein the heat retention rate is 30% or more.
4 . Knitted fabric according to any one of 1 to 3 weight per unit area of the knitted fabric is 100g / m 2 ~200g / m 2 .
5 . The knitted fabric according to any one of 1 to 4 , wherein (heat retention rate) / (weight of knitted fabric) is 0.18 to 0.35.
6 . The knitted fabric according to any one of 1 to 5 , wherein the mixing ratio of the spun yarn A to the knitted fabric is 35% by mass to 95% by mass.
7 . Knitted fabric according to any one of the 1-6 a bulkiness of the yarn A is 8cm 3 / g~20cm 3 / g.
8 . The knitted fabric according to any one of the above 1 to 7 , wherein a mixing ratio of the yarn B to the knitted fabric is 5% by mass to 65% by mass.
9 . The spun yarn A contains 30% by mass or more of a spun yarn containing 100% by mass of acrylic fiber or acrylic fiber, and includes at least one selected from the group of cellulosic fibers and animal hair fibers as other fibers. The knitted fabric according to any one of the above 1 to 8 , which is a yarn.
10 . The knitted fabric according to any one of the above 1 to 9 , wherein the yarn B is at least one selected from the group consisting of filament processed yarn, spun yarn and elastic yarn.
11 . The spun yarn a containing 30% by mass to 45% by mass of acrylic fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% to 45%, and the yarn B having a yarn count of 40th to 350th in metric count, Two courses of yarn a and then one course of yarn B, or one course of yarn a and then one course of yarn B, or one course of yarn a The yarn B is knitted for 2 courses, or the yarn B is knitted for 1 course and subsequently the yarn B is knitted for 3 courses and cross-knitted to produce a knitted fabric, the knitted fabric is 70 ° C. or higher The fabric is heated by wet heat to thermally shrink the high shrinkage fibers contained in the spun yarn a to make a knitted fabric as a spun yarn A, and the spun yarn A constituting the knitted fabric is thicker than the spun yarn a and is a metric count The manufacturing method of the knitted fabric which is 30th-70th in thickness.
12 . The method for producing a knitted fabric according to 11 , wherein the spun yarn a has a metric count of 50 to 100.
13 . The 11 or 12 wherein the basis weight of the knitted fabric and 60g / m 2 ~120g / m 2 , the basis weight of the knitted fabric and 100g / m 2 ~200g / m 2 and the knitting fabric was heated at 70 ° C. or more wet heat The manufacturing method of the knitted fabric as described in.
14 . The method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of 11 to 13 , wherein a spun yarn having a twist coefficient of 95 to 110 is used as the spun yarn a.
15 . The method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of 11 to 14 , wherein one or more types selected from the group consisting of filament processed yarn, spun yarn and elastic yarn are used as the yarn B.
16 . The method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of 11 to 15 , wherein a 10 gauge to 14 gauge circular knitting machine is used for knitting the knitted fabric.

本発明によれば、目付が200g/m2 以下と小さく軽量でありながら、保温性と風合いに優れた編地を提供することができ、また、軽量で風合いおよび保温に優れた編地を商業的に得ることができる。According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric excellent in heat retention and texture while being small and lightweight, having a weight per unit area of 200 g / m 2 or less, and a knitted fabric light in weight and excellent in texture and heat retention. Can be obtained

(編地)
本発明の編地は、熱収縮させたアクリル繊維を含有し、伸度が15%〜30%であり、メートル番手で30番手〜65番手の糸である紡績糸Aと、メートル番手で40番手〜350番手である糸B、前記紡績糸Aで2コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているか、前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているか、前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで2コース編成されて交編されているか、または、前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで3コース編成されて交編されてなるものである。
紡績糸Aと糸B上記のように交編されていることで、紡績糸Aは収縮して糸自体が膨らみを持ち、紡績糸Aの収縮に伴い糸Bが弛むことで編地に膨らみが出る。
紡績糸Aで2コース編成され続いて糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されている場合には、紡績糸Aの比率が多くなり過ぎないため、糸Bによる編地の膨らみ感が得られ、紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて糸Bで3コース編成されて交編されている場合には、紡績糸Aの収縮が十分起こり、紡績糸A自体の膨らみと、糸Bの弛みによる編地の膨らみ感が得られる。
これらの観点から、紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているか、または、紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて糸Bで2コース編成されて交編されているのがより好ましく、紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているのがさらに好ましい。
(Arrangement)
The knitted fabric of the present invention contains heat-shrinkable acrylic fiber, has an elongation of 15% to 30%, and has a metric count of 30 to 65 and a spun yarn A, and a metric of 40 yarn B is 350 fastest is the one spun yarn a in subsequently be two courses knitted is knitted one course by the yarn B have been mixed knitting, the yarn B and subsequently is knitted one course by the spun yarn a in 1 or are courses organized are mixed knitting, two courses are knitted with the yarn B and subsequently is knitted one course by the spun yarn A are either mixed knitting, or one course knitted with the yarn A are those formed by mixed knitting 3 are courses knitted by the yarn B and subsequently being.
Since the spun yarn A and the yarn B are interwoven as described above, the spun yarn A shrinks and the yarn itself has a swelling, and the yarn B swells as the yarn B slackens with the shrinkage of the spun yarn A. coming out.
In the case where two courses of yarn A are knitted and subsequently one course of yarn B is knitted and cross-knitted, since the ratio of the spun yarn A does not increase too much, a feeling of swelling of the fabric by the yarn B is obtained. , if 3 is the course knitted is mixed knitting yarn B and subsequently is knitted one course by the spun yarn a takes place contraction of the spun yarn a is sufficiently, the bulge of the spun yarn a itself, by loosening of the yarn B A feeling of swelling of the knitted fabric can be obtained.
From these viewpoints, it and subsequently is knitted one course by the spun yarn A is knitted one course by the yarn B are mixed knitting, or are two courses knitted yarn B and subsequently is knitted one course by the spun yarn A more preferably being mixed knitting, and even more preferably and subsequently is knitted one course by the spun yarn A is knitted one course by the yarn B are mixed knitting.

本発明の編地は、前記紡績糸Aが、アクリル繊維を含有し、伸度が15%〜30%の糸である。
前記紡績糸Aがアクリル繊維を含有することで、収縮率の高い紡績糸とすることができ、その紡績糸が収縮した結果、伸度を15%〜30%とすることができる。前記伸度が15%以上であれば、紡績糸が膨らみを持つまで収縮できており、前記伸度が30%以下であれば、編地の寸法安定性が良好となる。
これらの観点から、前記伸度は20%〜29%がより好ましく、23%〜28%がさらに好ましい。
In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the spun yarn A is a yarn containing an acrylic fiber and having an elongation of 15% to 30%.
By containing the acrylic fiber, the spun yarn A can be a spun yarn having a high contraction rate, and as a result of the spun yarn being shrunk, the elongation can be made 15% to 30%. If the elongation is 15% or more, the spun yarn can be shrunk to have a bulge, and if the elongation is 30% or less, the dimensional stability of the knitted fabric becomes good.
From these viewpoints, the elongation is more preferably 20% to 29%, and still more preferably 23% to 28%.

本発明の編地は、糸Bの太さが、メートル番手で40番手〜350番手である。
糸Bの太さがメートル番手で40番手以上であれば、糸Bが太くなり過ぎないため、編地が軽量にでき易く、350番手以下であれば、糸Bによる編地の膨らみ感が得られ易い。
これらの観点から、糸Bの太さは、メートル番手で100番手〜340番手が好ましく、150番手〜200番手がより好ましい。
In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the thickness of the yarn B is 40th to 350th in metric count.
If the thickness of the yarn B is 40 or more in metric count, the yarn B does not become too thick, so it is easy to make the knitted fabric light in weight, and if it is 350 or less, the feeling of swelling of the knitted fabric by the yarn B is obtained It is easy to be
From these viewpoints, the thickness of the yarn B is preferably 100 to 340 in metric count, and more preferably 150 to 200.

本発明の編地は、保温率が30%以上であることが好ましい。
本発明の編地の保温率が、30%以上であれば保温性を実感することができ。前記点から保温率は、好ましくは35%以上である。なお、本発明における保温率の測定方法については後述する。
The knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a heat retention rate of 30% or more.
If the heat retention rate of the knitted fabric of the present invention is 30% or more, heat retention can be realized. From the above point, the heat retention rate is preferably 35% or more. In addition, the measuring method of the heat retention rate in this invention is mentioned later.

本発明の編地は、編地の目付が100g/m2 〜200g/m2 であることが好ましい。編地の目付が100g/m2 以上であれば、保温率を30%以上にすることができ、200g/m2 以下であれば、編地を軽量にすることができる。
軽量性と保温性の観点から、本発明の編地の目付は、120g/m2 以上、より好ましくは160g/m2 以上であり、また、195g/m2 以下、より好ましくは190g/m2 以下である。
Knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable basis weight of the knitted fabric is 100g / m 2 ~200g / m 2 . If the fabric weight of the knitted fabric is 100 g / m 2 or more, the heat retention rate can be 30% or more, and if 200 g / m 2 or less, the knitted fabric can be lightweight.
From the viewpoint of lightness and heat retention, the basis weight of the knitted fabric of the present invention is 120 g / m 2 or more, more preferably 160 g / m 2 or more, and 195 g / m 2 or less, more preferably 190 g / m 2 It is below.

本発明の編地は、(保温率)/(編地の目付)が、0.18〜0.35であることが好ましい。
(保温率)/(編地の目付)が、0.18以上であれば、編地が軽量でありながら保温性に優れた編地にすることができ、0.35以下であれば、編地の強度が得られ、使用上の問題が発生しない。
これらの観点から、本発明の編地は、(保温率)/(編地の目付)が0.21〜0.33であることがより好ましく、0.25〜0.32であることがさらに好ましい。
In the knitted fabric of the present invention, (heat retention rate) / (weight of knitted fabric) is preferably 0.18 to 0.35.
If the (heat retention rate) / (weight of the knitted fabric) is 0.18 or more, the knitted fabric can be a knitted fabric excellent in heat retention while being lightweight, and if it is 0.35 or less, the knitting The strength of the ground is obtained and there is no problem in use.
From these viewpoints, it is more preferable that (heat retention rate) / (weight of fabric) of the knitted fabric of the present invention is 0.21 to 0.33, and it is more preferably 0.25 to 0.32. preferable.

本発明の編地は、紡績糸Aの太さが、メートル番手で30番手〜65番手であり、編地に対する該紡績糸Aの混率が35質量%〜95質量%であることが好ましい。
本発明の編地に含まれる紡績糸Aがメートル番手で30番手以上の細いものであれば、編地を軽量にするだけでなく、風合いの点でも好ましく、メートル番手が65番手以下の太さのものであれば、糸強力の点で好ましい。前記観点から、紡績糸の番手は、メートル番手で35番手〜55番手であることがより好ましい。
In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the thickness of the spun yarn A is 30 to 65 in metric count, and the mixing ratio of the spun yarn A to the knitted fabric is 35% by mass to 95% by mass.
If the spun yarn A contained in the knitted fabric of the present invention is a thin yarn having a metric count of 30 or more, it is preferable not only to make the knit lightweight but also in terms of texture, and the metric count has a thickness of 65 or less Are preferred in terms of yarn strength. From the above point of view, it is more preferable that the yarn count of the spun yarn is 35 to 55 in metric count.

本発明の編地に含まれる紡績糸Aの混率は、編地に対して35質量%〜95質量%である。紡績糸Aの混率が35質量%以上であれば、湿熱加熱加工時の収縮性の点で好ましく、編地に膨らみをもたせることができ、保温性を高めることができる。混率が95質量%以下であれば、他の糸との交編が可能となる点で好ましい。前記観点から、紡績糸Aの混率は、50質量%〜90質量%であることが好ましく、さらには60質量%〜80質量%であることがより好ましい。   The mixing ratio of the spun yarn A contained in the knitted fabric of the present invention is 35% by mass to 95% by mass with respect to the knitted fabric. If the blend ratio of the spun yarn A is 35% by mass or more, it is preferable in view of the shrinkability at the time of heat and moisture heat processing, and the knitted fabric can be made to swell and heat retention can be enhanced. If the mixing rate is 95% by mass or less, it is preferable in that it can be knitted with another yarn. From the above viewpoint, the mixing ratio of the spun yarn A is preferably 50% by mass to 90% by mass, and more preferably 60% by mass to 80% by mass.

本発明の編地は、紡績糸Aの嵩高性が8cm3 /g〜20cm3 /gであることが好ましい。
紡績糸Aの嵩高性が8cm3 /g以上であれば、糸の膨らみにより、軽量化ができ、保温性が高くできる。紡績糸Aの嵩高性が20cm3 /g以下であれば、編地が厚くなり過ぎないので好ましい。
これらの観点から、前記紡績糸Aの嵩高性は12cm3 /g〜19cm3 /gであることがより好ましく、15cm3 /g〜18cm3 /gであることがさらに好ましい。
Knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable bulky spun yarn A is 8cm 3 / g~20cm 3 / g.
If the bulkiness of the spun yarn A is 8 cm 3 / g or more, the expansion of the yarn can reduce the weight and increase the heat retention. If the bulkiness of the spun yarn A is 20 cm 3 / g or less, it is preferable because the knitted fabric does not become too thick.
From these viewpoints, more preferably bulkiness of the yarn A is 12cm 3 / g~19cm 3 / g, further preferably 15cm 3 / g~18cm 3 / g.

本発明の編地は、編地に対する前記糸Bの混率が5質量%〜65質量%であることが好ましい。
編地に対する該糸Bの混率が5質量%以上であれば、紡績糸Aの収縮に伴う糸Bの弛みによる編地の膨らみ感が得られ、65質量%以下であれば、紡績糸Aの収縮による編地の膨らみ感が得られる。
これらの観点から、編地に対する該糸Bの混率は、20質量%〜50質量%がより好ましく、30質量%〜40質量%がさらに好ましい。
In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the mixing ratio of the yarn B to the knitted fabric is preferably 5% by mass to 65% by mass.
If the mixing ratio of the yarn B to the knitted fabric is 5% by mass or more, a feeling of swelling of the knitted fabric due to the slack of the yarn B accompanying contraction of the spun yarn A is obtained, and if 65% by mass or less, the spun yarn A A feeling of swelling of the knitted fabric due to contraction can be obtained.
From these viewpoints, the mixing ratio of the yarn B to the knitted fabric is more preferably 20% by mass to 50% by mass, and still more preferably 30% by mass to 40% by mass.

本発明の編地に含まれる紡績糸Aは、アクリル繊維を30質量%以上含有する混紡紡績糸またはアクリル繊維を100質量%含有する紡績糸であることが好ましい。
紡績糸にアクリル繊維が30質量%以上含まれることで、編成生地を収縮させるだけの高収縮アクリル繊維を含有させることができ、紡績糸からなる編地にアクリル繊維の染色特性を発揮させるのに必要な量含有させることができる。また、該アクリル繊維は、原綿のときの収縮性、強伸度特性等の異なった2種以上のアクリル繊維からなるものであってもよい。
前記観点から、紡績糸Aは、アクリル繊維を40質量%以上含有することが好ましく、さらには50質量%以上含有することがより好ましい。また紡績糸Aに含まれるアクリル繊維は、原綿のときの収縮性、強伸度特性等の異なった2種以上のアクリル繊維からなっていてもよい。
The spun yarn A contained in the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably a blended spun yarn containing 30% by mass or more of acrylic fiber or a spun yarn containing 100% by mass of acrylic fiber.
By containing 30% by mass or more of acrylic fiber in the spun yarn, it is possible to contain high-shrinkage acrylic fiber that only shrinks the knitted fabric, and to exhibit the dyeing characteristics of acrylic fiber in the knitted fabric made of spun yarn. A necessary amount can be included. Further, the acrylic fiber may be composed of two or more kinds of acrylic fibers having different shrinkage properties, strength and elongation properties, etc. in the case of raw cotton.
From the above viewpoint, the spun yarn A preferably contains 40% by mass or more, and more preferably 50% by mass or more of acrylic fibers. Moreover, the acrylic fiber contained in the spun yarn A may be composed of two or more types of acrylic fibers having different shrinkage properties and tenacity characteristics in the case of raw cotton.

本発明の編地に含まれる紡績糸Aは、アクリル繊維以外の他の繊維としてセルロース系繊維及び獣毛繊維の群から選ばれる1種以上を70質量%以下、より好ましくは50質量%以下の範囲で含むアクリル繊維との混紡紡績糸であってもよく、セルロース系繊維または獣毛繊維を30質量%〜50質量%含むアクリル繊維との混紡紡績糸であることがより好ましい。紡績糸Aにおいてセルロース系繊維を30質量%以上含むことは吸湿発熱性能の点で好ましく、セルロース系繊維が50質量%以下であれば洗濯を繰り返しても風合いが硬くならず、より好ましくは紡績糸中に40質量%以下含むことである。   The spun yarn A contained in the knitted fabric of the present invention contains 70% by mass or less, more preferably 50% by mass or less, of one or more selected from the group of cellulosic fibers and animal hair fibers as fibers other than acrylic fibers. It may be a blended spun yarn with an acrylic fiber contained in the range, and more preferably a blended spun yarn with an acrylic fiber containing 30% by mass to 50% by mass of a cellulose fiber or an animal hair fiber. Containing 30% by mass or more of cellulose fibers in the spun yarn A is preferable from the viewpoint of moisture absorption and heating performance, and if the cellulose fibers are 50% by mass or less, the texture does not become hard even after repeated washing, more preferably spun yarn It is to contain in 40 mass% or less.

セルロース系繊維としては、木綿、レーヨン、キュプラ、リヨセル(レンチング社製、登録商標)等が挙げられ、特に制限はないが、例えばモダール(レンチング社製、登録商標)、テンセル(レンチング社製、登録商標)、レクセル(富士紡HD社製、登録商標)等の溶剤紡糸によったレーヨンの一種であるセルロース繊維(リヨセル)が好ましいものとして挙げられる。セルロース系繊維は、その単繊維繊度が0.8dtex〜2.2dtexであることが好ましく、さらには1.0dtex〜1.5dtexであることが風合いの点でより好ましい。   Examples of the cellulose-based fiber include cotton, rayon, cupra, lyocell (manufactured by Lenzing Co., Ltd., registered trademark), etc., and there is no particular limitation. For example, Modal (manufactured by Lenzing Co., registered trademark), Tencel (manufactured by Lenzing Co., Ltd.) Cellulose fibers (lyocell) which is a kind of rayon made by solvent spinning such as trademark, Lexel (manufactured by Fujibo HD Co., Ltd., registered trademark), etc. are mentioned as preferable. The cellulose-based fiber preferably has a single fiber fineness of 0.8 dtex to 2.2 dtex, and more preferably 1.0 dtex to 1.5 dtex from the viewpoint of texture.

また、紡績糸Aに獣毛繊維を30質量%以上含むことは保温性をより高める点で好ましく、かつアクリル繊維に比べて獣毛繊維は剛直性があることから編地にハリ・コシを付与することができる。獣毛繊維が50質量%以下であればメートル番手で40番手以上の番手の紡績糸を作成することができる。獣毛繊維としては、例えばウール、ラビット、アンゴラ、カシミア、アルパカ等が挙げられ、なかでもコストの点からはウールが、また風合いの点からはカシミアが好ましいものとして挙げられる。   In addition, it is preferable to include 30% by mass or more of animal hair fiber in the spun yarn A in terms of enhancing heat retention, and since the animal hair fiber is more rigid than acrylic fiber, it imparts stiffness to the knitted fabric. can do. If the animal hair fiber is 50% by mass or less, a spun yarn having a count of 40 or more can be produced with a metric count. As the animal hair fiber, for example, wool, rabbit, angora, cashmere, alpaca and the like can be mentioned. Among them, wool is preferable from the viewpoint of cost and cashmere is preferable from the viewpoint of texture.

糸Bは、保温性を向上させる点から、フィラメント加工糸、紡績糸及び弾性糸の群から選ばれる1種以上であることが好ましい。
フィラメント加工糸は、ポリエステル、ナイロン、ポリプロピレン等の合成繊維、アセテート繊維等の半合成繊維、キュプラ、レーヨン等の再生繊維が使用でき、これらの仮撚加工糸または撚糸である。
紡績糸は、前記合成繊維、半合成繊維及び再生繊維の短繊維、綿、麻、羊毛等の天然繊維が使用でき、これらを混紡しても良い。
弾性糸は、ポリウレタン弾性糸を単独や、ポリウレタン弾性糸に他の繊維を巻き付けたフィラメント・ツイスト・ヤーン(FTY)やコア・スパン・ヤーン(CSY)が使用できる。
The yarn B is preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of filament processed yarn, spun yarn and elastic yarn, from the viewpoint of improving heat retention.
As the filament-processed yarn, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and polypropylene, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate fibers, regenerated fibers such as cupra and rayon can be used, and these are false twisted yarns or twisted yarns.
As the spun yarn, staple fibers of the above-mentioned synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers and regenerated fibers, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool and the like may be used, and these may be blended.
The elastic yarn may be a polyurethane elastic yarn alone, or a filament twist yarn (FTY) or a core span yarn (CSY) in which other fibers are wound around the polyurethane elastic yarn.

染色前の編成生地における糸Bの収縮率は、0%〜10%であることが好ましく、0%〜5%であることがより好ましく、この収縮範囲であれば、紡績糸Aの収縮の方が大きいため、糸Bが編地の外側に現れ、編地に膨らみを与え、保温性が向上する。
また、糸Bは、その太さがメートル番手で40番手以上であれば、編地を軽量にすることができ、350番手以下であれば、ポリウレタン等の弾性糸を含有させることができ、ストレッチ性を与えることができる。
The shrinkage ratio of the yarn B in the knitted fabric before dyeing is preferably 0% to 10%, more preferably 0% to 5%, and in this shrinkage range, the shrinkage of the spun yarn A is Since the yarn B is large, the yarn B appears on the outer side of the knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric is swelled to improve the heat retention.
In addition, the yarn B can make the knitted fabric lightweight if its thickness is 40 or more in metric count, and can be made to contain an elastic yarn such as polyurethane if it is 350 or less. Can give sex.

(編地の製造)
本発明の編地の製造方法は、沸水収縮率が30%〜45%であるアクリル繊維を30質量%〜45質量%含む紡績糸aと、糸の太さが、メートル番手で40番手〜350番手である糸Bとを、前記紡績糸aで2コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成するか、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成するか、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで2コース編成するか、または、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで3コース編成し交編して編成生地を作製し、該編成生地を70℃以上の湿熱で加熱して、紡績糸a中の少なくとも高収縮性繊維を熱収縮させ、高収縮性繊維の熱収縮でさらに紡績糸そのものを糸長手方向に収縮させて、得られた編地を構成する紡績糸Aをもとの紡績糸aより太くかつメートル番手で30番手〜70番手の太さとするものである。
(Manufacture of knitted fabric)
In the method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention, a spun yarn a containing 30% by mass to 45% by mass of acrylic fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% to 45%, and a yarn thickness of 40 to 350 in metric count The yarn B, which is the yarn count, is knitted by two courses with the spun yarn a and then knitted by one course with the yarn B, or knitted by one course with the spun yarn a and subsequently knitted by one course with the yarn B. The knitted fabric is formed by one course knitting with the spun yarn a and subsequently by two courses by the yarn B, or by one course knitting with the spun yarn a and subsequently by three courses by the yarn B and cross knitting. And heat the knitted fabric with moist heat of 70 ° C. or higher to thermally shrink at least the highly shrinkable fibers in the spun yarn a, and further shrink the spun yarn itself in the lengthwise direction of the yarn by the heat shrinkage of the highly shrinkable fibers. , The obtained spun yarn A constituting the knitted fabric is thicker than the original spun yarn a One metric count in it is an thickness of 30 fastest 70 fastest.

紡績糸aを編成生地に35質量%以上含ませることで、編成生地に十分な収縮性を与えることができ、95質量%以下とすることで、編地の風合いが硬くなりすぎることを抑制し、また他の繊維を含ませることができる。紡績糸aは、編成生地に対して60質量%〜90質量%含ませることが好ましく、60質量%〜80質量%含ませることがより好ましい。   By including the spun yarn a in the knitted fabric at 35% by mass or more, sufficient shrinkage can be given to the knitted fabric, and by setting it at 95% by mass or less, the texture of the knitted fabric is prevented from being too hard. It can also contain other fibers. The spun yarn a is preferably contained in an amount of 60% by mass to 90% by mass, more preferably 60% by mass to 80% by mass, based on the knitted fabric.

また、編成生地を構成する紡績糸a中の高収縮性繊維を熱収縮させる際は、70℃以上の湿熱であれば紡績糸a中の高収縮性繊維を熱収縮させることができるが、好ましくは上限が100℃以下の湿熱であれば、編地が熱により変色することを防ぐことができる。また、紡績糸a中に沸水収縮率が30%未満の収縮性繊維を含むときは90℃〜100℃の湿熱で収縮性繊維を熱収縮させることができる。編成生地を湿熱で加熱する処理は、できるだけ生地に張力のかからない状態下で行うことが好ましく、独立した熱水での湿熱加熱処理であってもよいし、染色と同時に染浴中で行ってもよい。この湿熱加熱処理においては、高収縮性繊維の沸水収縮率、紡績糸aでの高収縮性繊維の混率、編地での紡績糸aの混率に応じ、温度、時間を適宜変更し、編地での紡績糸を目的の糸番手とする。
なお、本発明において、編成生地とは、編成されただけの段階の生機の編地を指し、湿熱処理(染色)等が施される前のものをいう。
In addition, when the high shrinkage fibers in the spun yarn a constituting the knitted fabric are heat shrunk, the high shrinkage fibers in the spun yarn a can be heat shrunk if they have a wet heat of 70 ° C. or higher. If the wet heat of 100 ° C. or less is the upper limit, the knitted fabric can be prevented from being discolored by heat. When the spun yarn a contains shrinkable fibers having a boiling water shrinkage rate of less than 30%, the shrinkable fibers can be heat shrunk with moist heat of 90 ° C to 100 ° C. The process of heating the knitted fabric with moist heat is preferably performed under the condition that tension is not applied to the fabric as much as possible, it may be wet heat heat treatment with independent hot water, or may be performed simultaneously with dyeing in the dye bath Good. In this wet heat treatment, the temperature and time are appropriately changed according to the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the high shrinkage fiber, the mixing ratio of the high shrinkage fiber in the spun yarn a, and the mixing ratio of the spun yarn a in the fabric, The yarn count of the yarn is the target yarn count.
In the present invention, the knitted fabric refers to a knitted fabric of a living machine in a stage of only being knitted, and refers to one before being subjected to wet heat treatment (staining) and the like.

本発明の編地の製造方法においては、紡績糸aとして、沸水収縮率が30%〜45%の高収縮性繊維を30質量%〜45質量%含む紡績糸を用いることが好ましい。高収縮性繊維における沸水収縮率が30%以上であれば、編地に十分な膨らみを与えることができ、45%以下であれば、編地が硬くなることを防ぐことができる。前記観点から、高収縮性繊維の沸水収縮率は33%〜40%であることが好ましい。   In the method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to use, as the spun yarn a, a spun yarn containing 30% by mass to 45% by mass of high shrinkage fibers having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% to 45%. If the boiling water contraction rate in the high shrinkage fiber is 30% or more, the fabric can be sufficiently swelled, and if 45% or less, the fabric can be prevented from becoming hard. From the above point of view, it is preferable that the boiling water shrinkage of the high shrinkage fiber is 33% to 40%.

本発明の編地の製造方法において、紡績糸aにおける高収縮性繊維として、沸水収縮率が30%〜45%の高収縮性アクリル繊維を用いることが好ましい。高収縮性繊維に高収縮性アクリル繊維を用いることは、繊維の熱伝導性が低いことによる保温性の良さ、染色時の発色性の良さから鮮やかな色彩を編地に付与することができ、常圧下の湿熱70℃以上100℃以下での染色によって繊維の熱収縮を発現することができ、経済効率の点からも好ましい。   In the method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to use a high-shrinkage acrylic fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% to 45% as the high-shrinkability fiber in the spun yarn a. Using high-shrinkage acrylic fiber as the high-shrinkage fiber can impart a vivid color to the knit fabric due to the good heat retention due to the low thermal conductivity of the fiber and the good color development during dyeing. The heat shrinkage of the fiber can be developed by dyeing at a moist heat of 70 ° C. or more and 100 ° C. or less under normal pressure, which is preferable from the point of economic efficiency.

高収縮性繊維の湿熱での熱収縮を発現させるためには、紡績糸a中に高収縮性アクリル繊維等の高収縮性繊維を30質量%以上含有させる必要があり、また45質量%以下含有させることで、収縮後に糸表面に覆う他の繊維の量が確保され風合いを維持することができる。   In order to develop the heat shrinkage of the high shrinkage fiber under wet heat, it is necessary to contain 30 mass% or more of high shrinkage fibers such as high shrinkage acrylic fiber in the spun yarn a, and also 45 wt% or less By doing this, the amount of other fibers covered on the yarn surface after shrinkage can be secured, and the texture can be maintained.

(編地製造に用いる紡績糸)
本発明の編地の製造方法において、用いる紡績糸aは、一般的な綿紡績の手法によって得ることができる。
紡績糸aを構成する繊維は、高収縮性繊維、好ましくは高収縮性アクリル繊維が紡績糸に対して30質量%〜45質量%含まれ、さらに他の繊維が混紡されて含む。この際、高収縮性繊維の混率が30質量%未満であると紡績糸に湿熱を加えたときの収縮力が弱く、目的とする紡績糸が収縮して太くなるという糸の構造変化が起きないため、編地となった際に十分な保温性を得ることができない。また高収縮性繊維の混率が45質量%を超えると湿熱を加えた際の収縮力は十分であるが、編地表面に現れる他の繊維が少なくなることで風合いが損なわれる。
(Spun yarns used in the manufacture of knitted fabrics)
In the method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention, the spun yarn a to be used can be obtained by a general cotton spinning method.
The fibers constituting the spun yarn a include high-shrinkage fibers, preferably high-shrinkage acrylic fibers, in an amount of 30% by mass to 45% by mass based on the spun yarn, and other fibers mixed and contained therein. At this time, if the blend ratio of high-shrinkable fiber is less than 30% by mass, the shrinkage force when moist heat is applied to the spun yarn is weak, and the structural change of the yarn does not occur such that the targeted spun yarn shrinks and becomes thicker. Therefore, when it becomes a knitted fabric, sufficient heat insulation can not be obtained. When the blend ratio of the high-shrinkable fiber exceeds 45% by mass, the shrinkage force when wet heat is applied is sufficient, but the texture is impaired by the decrease of other fibers appearing on the surface of the knitted fabric.

混紡される他の繊維としては、沸水収縮率が30%未満のアクリル繊維、セルロース系繊維、獣毛繊維が挙げられる。本発明の編地の製造方法においては、好ましく用いられる紡績糸aとしては、沸水収縮率が30%〜45%の高収縮性アクリル繊維と、沸水収縮率が30%未満のアクリル繊維、セルロース系繊維及び獣毛繊維の群から選ばれる1種または2種以上との混紡紡績糸がボリューム感のある編地を得るうえで好ましく、また高収縮性アクリル繊維以外の他の繊維を合計で紡績糸に対して60質量%〜70質量%含む混紡紡績糸が好ましい。混紡される他の繊維は、単独の繊維であってもよいが同種の繊維の組み合わせまたは異種の繊維の組み合わせの複数の繊維であってもよい。   Other fibers to be blended include acrylic fibers having a boiling water shrinkage of less than 30%, cellulosic fibers and animal hair fibers. In the method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention, as the spun yarn a which is preferably used, high shrinkage acrylic fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% to 45%, an acrylic fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of less than 30%, and cellulose A blended spun yarn with one or more fibers selected from the group of fibers and animal hair fibers is preferable in order to obtain a knitted fabric having a voluminous feel, and a spun yarn in total of other fibers other than highly shrinkable acrylic fibers. The blended spun yarn containing 60% by mass to 70% by mass is preferable. The other fiber to be blended may be a single fiber but may be a plurality of fibers of a combination of the same kind of fibers or a combination of different kinds of fibers.

他の繊維の1つにセルロース系繊維を用いるときは、紡績糸aに対して混率30質量%〜50質量%で含ませることが好ましい。セルロース系繊維の混率が30質量%未満であるとセルロース系繊維による吸湿発熱性の効果がなく、50質量%を超えると、吸湿発熱性は確保されるものの、洗濯を繰り返すことで編地の風合いが硬くなる傾向があらわれる。セルロース系繊維のより好ましい混率は40質量%前後である。また、その他の繊維の1つに獣毛繊維を用いるときも、紡績糸aに対して混率30質量%〜50質量%で含ませることが保温性をより高める点で好ましい。沸水収縮率が30%未満のアクリル繊維は、沸水収縮率が30%未満であればよく、低収縮性或いは伸張性のアクリル繊維が含まれていてもよい。   When using a cellulose fiber for one of other fibers, it is preferable to include with 30 mass%-50 mass% of mixing ratios with respect to the spun yarn a. If the mixing ratio of the cellulose fiber is less than 30% by mass, there is no effect of the hygroscopicity of the hygroscopicity by the cellulosic fiber, and if it exceeds 50% by mass, although the hygroscopicity is absorbed, the texture of the knitted fabric is repeated by repeated washing. Tends to become hard. A more preferable mixing ratio of the cellulose-based fiber is about 40 mass%. Moreover, also when using an animal hair fiber as one of the other fibers, it is preferable to be included at a blend ratio of 30% by mass to 50% by mass with respect to the spun yarn a from the viewpoint of further enhancing heat retention. The acrylic fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of less than 30% may have a boiling water shrinkage of less than 30%, and may contain low shrinkage or stretchable acrylic fibers.

本発明の編地の製造方法において用いられる紡績糸aは、さらに詳しくは、原綿を混綿工程、打綿工程を通しラップを形成したのち、梳綿機に投入するか、打綿工程を省略したのち開綿機から梳綿機に原綿を投入することにより、原綿の繊維塊が開繊され、スライバーが作成され、作成したスライバーを練条機に複数回通すことで繊維の均整度をあげて粗糸とし、さらに精紡機で撚係数が95〜110の撚りのかけた状態での紡績糸を得る。作成した紡績糸aは、巻き取り工程にてコーンに巻き取った後、湿熱55℃を加えて撚りの残留トルクを除去し、編成に供する。   More specifically, the spun yarn a used in the method for producing a knitted fabric according to the present invention, after raw cotton is formed into a lapping process through a mixing process and a batting process, is then put into a cotton machine or the batting process is omitted. The raw cotton fiber mass is opened by feeding the raw cotton from the open-cotton machine into the loom machine, the sliver is made, and the prepared sliver is passed through the drawing machine a plurality of times to raise the fiber consistency A roving is obtained, and a spinning machine is used to obtain a spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 95 to 110 in a twisted state. The produced spun yarn a is wound on a cone in a winding process, and then moist heat of 55 ° C. is applied to remove the residual torque of twisting, and is used for knitting.

また、紡績糸aとして、太さがメートル番手で50番手〜100番手の紡績糸を用いることが好ましく、また紡績糸aの撚係数が95〜110の撚りがかかっている紡績糸を用いることが好ましい。編成された生地を構成する紡績糸aがメートル番手で50番手以上であることで編地の柔軟性を確保することができ、100番手以下であることで編成時の糸切れを防ぐことができる。前記観点から、紡績糸aはメートル番手で60番手〜90番手であることがより好ましく、75番手〜85番手であることがさらに好ましい。   In addition, as the spun yarn a, it is preferable to use a spun yarn of 50th to 100th counts in metric count, and use a spun yarn having a twist coefficient of 95 to 110 on the spun yarn a. preferable. The flexibility of the knitted fabric can be secured because the spun yarn a constituting the knitted fabric is 50 or more by the metric count, and the yarn breakage during knitting can be prevented by being 100 or less . From the above viewpoint, the spun yarn a is more preferably 60 to 90 in metric count, and still more preferably 75 to 85 in metric.

また撚係数を95以上とすることで紡績糸の強力を確保することができ、撚係数110以下とすることで飽和撚数以下となり撚数を上げ過ぎることによる強力低下を防ぐことができ、より好ましくは撚係数が100〜107である。   Further, by setting the twisting coefficient to 95 or more, the strength of the spun yarn can be secured, and by setting the twisting coefficient to 110 or less, the number of saturated twists becomes smaller and the strength decrease due to excessively increasing the number of twists can be prevented. Preferably, the twisting factor is 100 to 107.

(編地の編成)
本発明の編地の製造方法においては、生地となる編地を紡績糸aで2コース編成し続いて他の糸Bで1コース編成するか、紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて糸Bで1コース編成するか、紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて糸Bで2コース編成するか、または、紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて糸Bで3コース編成し交編して得ることが好ましい。紡績糸aと交編する糸Bは、フィラメント糸でも紡績糸でもよく、フィラメント加工糸、紡績糸及び弾性糸の群から選ばれる少なくとも1つであることが好ましい。糸Bとしては、ポリプロピレン仮撚加工糸、ナイロン仮撚加工糸またはアクリル紡績糸であることがより好ましく、特にポリプロピレン仮撚加工糸が含まれることは、比重が軽いことから編地の軽量化に当たっては好ましいことである。
(Organization of knitted fabric)
In the method of manufacturing the knitted fabric according to the present invention, the knitted fabric to be the fabric is knitted by two courses with the spun yarn a and then one course is knitted with the other yarn B or one course by the spun yarn a is continued with the yarn B Obtained by 1 course knitting, 1 course knitting with spun yarn a and then 2 course knitting with yarn B, or 1 course knitting with spun yarn a and then 3 course knitting with yarn B and cross knitting Is preferred. The yarn B to be interwoven with the spun yarn a may be a filament yarn or a spun yarn, and is preferably at least one selected from the group of filament processed yarn, spun yarn and elastic yarn. The yarn B is more preferably a polypropylene false-twisted yarn, a nylon false-twisted yarn or an acrylic spun yarn, and it is particularly preferred that the polypropylene false-twisted yarn is included to reduce the weight of the knitted fabric because the specific gravity is light. Is preferred.

紡績糸aで2コース編成し、続いて他の糸Bで1コースを編成し交編する」ことは、一般的に、「紡績糸aと糸Bの交編率が2:1」と表現される。すなわち、交編率とは、紡績糸Aと糸Bの配置本数の比率であり、例えば、紡績糸aで3コース編成し、続いて糸Bで3コースを編成し交編する場合には、交編率は「3:3」と表現される。丸編みの場合は、給糸口に紡績糸aを2本立て、糸Bを1本立て、それを繰り返すことで編成できる。横編みの場合は、紡績糸aを2コース編立てた後、糸を紡績糸aから糸Bに切り替えて1コース編立て、これを繰り返す。 " Two yarn knitting with spinning yarn a, and then one yarn knitting and crossing knitting with another yarn B " generally means that "the knitting ratio of spinning yarn a and yarn B is 2: 1". Be expressed. That is, the knitting ratio is the ratio of the number of yarns A and yarns B arranged, for example, in the case of three-course knitting with yarn a, and subsequently knitting and knitting three courses with yarn B, The knitting rate is expressed as "3: 3". In the case of circular knitting, two yarns a can be placed on the yarn feeder, one yarn B can be stood, and knitting can be repeated. In the case of the weft knitting, after the spun yarn a is knitted for 2 courses, the yarn is switched from the spun yarn a to the yarn B and knitted for 1 course, and this is repeated.

本発明の編地の製造方法における編成生地を得る編成に際しては、10ゲージ〜14ゲージの丸編機を用いることが好ましく、編成生地での目付を60g/m2 〜120g/m2 とする。編成に用いる丸編機は、10ゲージ以上とすることで編地の編目が拡がり過ぎず、14ゲージ以下とすることで編地となったときの風合いが硬くなり過ぎないものとする。また目付を60g/m2 以上とすることで編地の強力を確保することができ、120g/m2 以下とすることで編地になったときの軽量感を維持することができる。In knitting to obtain a knitted fabric in the knitted fabric of the manufacturing method of the present invention, it is preferable to use a circular knitting machine of 10 gauge to 14 gauge, to a basis weight of at knitwork and 60g / m 2 ~120g / m 2 . The circular knitting machine used for knitting does not expand too much the stitches of the knitted fabric by setting it to 10 gauge or more, and the texture when it becomes a knitted fabric by setting it to 14 gauge or less is not too hard. Further, by setting the fabric weight to 60 g / m 2 or more, the strength of the knitted fabric can be secured, and by setting the fabric weight to 120 g / m 2 or less, the lightweight feel when the fabric is knitted can be maintained.

(編成生地の湿熱加熱)
本発明の編地の製造方法においては、編成生地を70℃以上の湿熱で加熱することによって、構成の紡績糸を太くし目的とする編地の目付を好ましくは100g/m2 〜200g/m2 とする。編地の目付が100g/m2 以上とすることで製品となったときの実用的な強力を確保することができ、200g/m2 以下とすることで軽量感のある製品とすることができる。
(Wet heat heat of knitted fabric)
In the method for producing the knitted fabric of the present invention, the weight per unit area of the intended knitted fabric is preferably 100 g / m 2 to 200 g / m by heating the knitted fabric with moist heat of 70 ° C. or more to thicken the spun yarn. Set to 2 . By setting the fabric weight of the knitted fabric to 100 g / m 2 or more, practical strength can be secured when it becomes a product, and by setting it to 200 g / m 2 or less, a product having a sense of lightweight can be obtained. .

編成生地の湿熱加熱処理では、70℃以上の湿熱であることが必要であり、湿熱が70℃未満では、十分な収縮力が発現せず、100℃を超えると、紡績糸a中にアクリル繊維が含まれるときはアクリル繊維が熱により黄変することで品位の低下に繋がることから、湿熱の上限は100℃以下で、常圧での沸騰温度であることが好ましく、この点からも、編成生地の湿熱加熱処理に当たっては、液流染色機を用い、染色と同時の湿熱加熱処理することが好ましい。   The wet heat treatment of the knitted fabric needs to be wet heat of 70 ° C. or higher, and when the wet heat is less than 70 ° C., sufficient contraction force is not expressed, and when it exceeds 100 ° C., the acrylic fiber in the spun yarn a The upper limit of moist heat is preferably 100 ° C. or less, and the boiling temperature at normal pressure is preferable because the acrylic fiber is yellowed by heat when it is contained, and the boiling temperature at normal pressure is 100 ° C. or less. In the wet heat treatment of the dough, it is preferable to carry out the wet heat treatment simultaneously with the dyeing using a jet flow dyeing machine.

編成生地を湿熱加熱処理することによって、この生地を構成する紡績糸a中の高収縮性繊維の熱収縮、さらに紡績糸自体の長手方向の収縮を発現させる。この湿熱加熱処理によって目付100g/m2 〜200g/m2 の編地を得る。編地の目付が100g/m2 以上であると、製品にしたときの編地強力が高くできるため、実用に耐えられるものとなり、また200g/m2 以下であると、編地が厚くなり過ぎず、動きやすい製品となる。By subjecting the knitted fabric to heat and moisture treatment, the heat shrinkage of the high-shrinkability fibers in the spun yarn a constituting the fabric and the shrinkage in the longitudinal direction of the spun yarn itself are developed. Obtaining a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 100g / m 2 ~200g / m 2 by the wet heat heat treatment. If the fabric weight of the knitted fabric is 100 g / m 2 or more, the strength of the knitted fabric when made into a product can be increased, so it can withstand practical use, and if 200 g / m 2 or less, the knitted fabric becomes too thick It becomes a product that is easy to move.

(高収縮性アクリル繊維)
本発明の編地の製造方法において、高収縮性繊維として好ましく用いられる高収縮性アクリル繊維は、以下のアクリロニトリル重合体を用いた湿式紡糸による製糸方法によって得られる。高収縮性アクリル繊維の原料の重合体としては、通常のアクリル繊維の製造に用いられる、例えば水系懸濁重合法によって得たアクリロニトリル重合体が挙げられ、特に限定はないが、50質量%以上のアクリロニトリルを含有する他の成分が共重合された重合体であることが好ましい。これによりアクリル繊維本来の特性を発現することができる。
(High-shrinkage acrylic fiber)
The high-shrinkage acrylic fiber which is preferably used as the high-shrinkage fiber in the method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by a spinning method by wet spinning using the following acrylonitrile polymer. As a polymer of the raw material of high-shrinkage acrylic fiber, for example, an acrylonitrile polymer obtained by an aqueous suspension polymerization method, which is used in the production of ordinary acrylic fiber, may be mentioned, and it is not particularly limited. It is preferable that the other component containing an acrylonitrile is a copolymer copolymerized. Thereby, the original characteristics of acrylic fiber can be expressed.

アクリロニトリルとの共重合成分としては、例えばアクリル酸メチル、アクリル酸エチル、アクリル酸イソプロピル、アクリル酸n−ブチル、アクリル酸2−エチルヘキシル、アクリル酸2−ヒドロキシエチル等に代表されるアクリル酸エステル類、メタクリル酸メチル、メタクリル酸エチル、メタクリル酸イソプロピル等に代表されるメタクリル酸エステル類、さらにアクリル酸、メタクリル酸、マレイン酸、イタコン酸、アクリルアミド、スチレン、ビニルトルエン、酢酸ビニル、塩化ビニル、塩化ビニリデン、臭化ビニル、臭化ビニリデン、フッ化ビニル、フッ化ビニリデン等が挙げられる。また、アクリロニトリルにp−スルホフェニルメタリルエーテル、メタリルスルホン酸、アリルスルホン酸、スチレンスルホン酸、2−アクリルアミド−2メチルプロパンスルホン酸、及びこれらのアルカリ塩を共重合することは、染色性の改良のために好ましい。   Examples of the copolymerization component with acrylonitrile include acrylic esters represented by methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, isopropyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, etc. Methacrylates represented by methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate etc., and further acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, acrylamide, styrene, vinyl toluene, vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, Examples include vinyl bromide, vinylidene bromide, vinyl fluoride, vinylidene fluoride and the like. Further, copolymerization of p-sulfophenyl methallyl ether, methallyl sulfonic acid, allyl sulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, and alkali salts thereof with acrylonitrile is an improvement in dyeability. Preferred for

(高収縮性アクリル繊維の作成)
本発明で用いられる紡績糸aに含まれる高収縮性繊維として好適な高収縮性アクリル繊維は、例えば次のように湿式紡糸して得ることができる。
水系懸濁重合法により得たアクリロニトリル91質量%、酢酸ビニル9質量%からなる共重合体をジメチルアセトアミドに溶解し、重合体濃度20質量%の紡糸原液とする。該紡糸原液を、丸型形状の吐出孔を具備した紡糸口金を用い、ジメチルアセトアミド30質量%〜60質量%、水70質量%〜40質量%の組成、温度30℃〜50℃の凝固浴中で吐出して紡糸する。吐出孔数は特に限定はない。紡糸後5倍に延伸し、続いて油剤を付着させ150℃の熱ローラーで乾燥後、熱緩和工程を経て更に紡糸トウを1.1倍〜2.0倍の倍率で延伸することによって、任意の沸水収縮率を与えることができ、沸水収縮率が30%〜45%の高収縮性アクリル繊維を得ることができる。
(Creating high-shrinkage acrylic fiber)
The high-shrinkage acrylic fiber suitable as the high-shrinkage fiber contained in the spun yarn a used in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by wet spinning as follows.
A copolymer consisting of 91% by mass of acrylonitrile and 9% by mass of vinyl acetate obtained by the aqueous suspension polymerization method is dissolved in dimethylacetamide to make a spinning stock solution with a polymer concentration of 20% by mass. Using a spinneret equipped with a round-shaped discharge hole, this spinning stock solution has a composition of 30% by mass to 60% by mass of dimethylacetamide, 70% by mass to 40% by mass of water, and a coagulation bath at a temperature of 30 ° C to 50 ° C. Eject and spin at. The number of discharge holes is not particularly limited. After spinning, it is drawn 5 times, followed by oil solution deposition and drying with a heat roller at 150 ° C., and then through a heat relaxation step, the drawn tow is further drawn at a magnification of 1.1 times to 2.0 times. Boiling water shrinkage rate can be given, and a high shrinkage property acrylic fiber with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30% to 45% can be obtained.

以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。実施例中の評価項目は、以下の方法によって測定した。なお、以下の実施例・比較例における「紡績糸aと糸Bとを交編率が1:1で交編する」旨の記載は、紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて糸Bで1コース編成し交編することを意味する。
(保温率の測定方法)
保温率の測定方法は、(一財)ボーケン品質評価機構での試験方法に基づき、カトーテック社製KES−FサーモラボII試験機を用い、30cm/secの有風下、一定温度(環境温度+10℃)に設定した熱板に試験片をセットし、試験片を介して放散された熱量(a)を求める。また、試験片をセットしない状態で放散された熱量(b)を求め、下記の式に従い保温率(%)を算出する。
保温率(%)=(1−a/b)×100
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples . Evaluation items in the real施例was measured by the following method. In the following examples and comparative examples, the statement of “Cross-knitted the spun yarn a and the yarn B at a knitting ratio of 1: 1” is formed by one course of the spun yarn a and then by the yarn B. Means of course organization and knitting.
(Measurement method of heat retention rate)
The method of measuring the heat retention rate is based on a test method by Boken Quality Evaluation Organization, using KOTO-TECH KES-F Thermo Lab II tester, under a wind of 30 cm / sec, constant temperature (environment temperature + 10 ° C. The test piece is set on the heating plate set to), and the heat quantity (a) dissipated through the test piece is determined. Further, the amount of heat dissipated (b) without the test piece set is determined, and the heat retention rate (%) is calculated according to the following equation.
Heat retention rate (%) = (1-a / b) × 100

(糸の嵩高性の測定方法)
編地から、紡績糸Aを解き取って、10cmの紡績糸Aを200本準備した以外は、JIS L1095(2010) 9.14.2 B法と同様にして嵩高性を測定した。
(Method for measuring yarn bulkiness)
Bulkiness was measured in the same manner as JIS L1095 (2010) 9.14.2 B except that spun yarn A was unwound from the knitted fabric and 200 yarns of 10 cm were prepared.

(実施例1)
水系懸濁重合法により得たアクリロニトリル91質量%、酢酸ビニル9質量%からなるアクリロニトリル共重合体を、ジメチルアセトアミドに溶解し、重合体濃度20質量%の紡糸原液を得た。この紡糸原液を丸型形状の吐出孔を具備した紡糸口金を用い、ジメチルアセトアミド60質量%、水40質量%の組成、温度40℃の凝固浴中に吐出し紡糸した。なお、紡糸口金には、吐出孔が孔径0.008mm、孔数が15000のノズル口金を使用した。引き続き、沸水中で溶剤を洗浄したのち5倍に延伸し、続いて油剤を付着させ150℃の熱ローラーで乾燥、熱緩和処理し、目標とする収縮率を得るために1.8倍のスチーム延伸工程を経た後、繊維長38mmに切断して繊維断面形状が空豆断面のアクリル繊維を得た。得られたアクリル繊維は、単繊維繊度1.3dtex、繊維長38mm、沸水収縮率(BWS)38%の高収縮性を有するアクリル繊維であり、以下高収縮性アクリル繊維(V85)という。
Example 1
An acrylonitrile copolymer consisting of 91% by mass of acrylonitrile and 9% by mass of vinyl acetate obtained by the aqueous suspension polymerization method was dissolved in dimethylacetamide to obtain a spinning solution with a polymer concentration of 20% by mass. The spinning stock solution was discharged into a coagulation bath having a composition of 60% by mass of dimethylacetamide and 40% by mass of water at a temperature of 40 ° C. using a spinneret equipped with round-shaped discharge holes. The spinneret used was a nozzle nozzle with a diameter of 0.008 mm for the discharge hole and 15000 holes. Subsequently, the solvent is washed in boiling water and then stretched by 5 times, followed by depositing the oil solution, drying with a heat roller at 150 ° C., heat relaxation treatment, and 1.8 times of steam to obtain a target shrinkage rate. After passing through the drawing process, the fiber length is cut to 38 mm to obtain an acrylic fiber having an empty bean cross section. The obtained acrylic fiber is an acrylic fiber having a high shrinkage of a single fiber fineness of 1.3 dtex, a fiber length of 38 mm, and a boiling water shrinkage ratio (BWS) of 38%, and is hereinafter referred to as high shrinkage acrylic fiber (V85).

紡績糸の作成のため、前述の高収縮性アクリル繊維(V85)を30質量%と、単繊維繊度が1. 0dtex、BWSが18%のアクリル繊維(三菱レイヨン社製、H129)を20質量%と、単繊維繊度が0.8dtex、BWSが1%のアクリル繊維(三菱レイヨン社製、H616)を40質量%と、単繊維繊度が3.3dtex、BWSが2%の光発熱アクリル繊維(三菱レイヨン社製、ET10)を10質量%との原綿比率で、綿紡績工程に投入し開綿工程を経て混綿したのち、フラットカードを用いてスライバーを作成し、練条工程を2回通して粗糸を作成し、精紡工程を通して、撚係数105、メートル番手で85番手の紡績糸aを得た。この紡績糸aを巻き取り工程でコーンに巻き取ったのち湿熱55℃で撚りをセットした。次に、作成した前記85番手の紡績糸aと、ポリプロピレン仮撚加工糸(56dtex/30f)である糸Bとを交編率が1:1で12ゲージ(G)24口の丸編機を用いて3段スムース組織の編成生地を交編し、前記85番手の紡績糸aの混率が65質量%、目付が72g/m2 の編成生地を得た。この編成生地を、液流染色機を用い、カチオン染料にて98℃、30分の湿熱加熱処理を兼ねた染色を行った。得られた編地は目付が120g/m2 であり、この編地において、編成生地ではメートル番手で85番手であった紡績糸aがメートル番手で50番手の紡績糸Aとなっていた。また、得られた編地は保温率が38%であり保温性に優れるものであった。For production of spun yarn, 20% by mass of the above-mentioned high-shrinkage acrylic fiber (V85), 30% by mass, an acrylic fiber with a single fiber fineness of 1.0 dtex and 18% BWS (Mitsubishi Rayon H129) And 40 wt% of acrylic fiber with a single fiber fineness of 0.8 dtex and BWS of 1% (H616 manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.), and a light heating acrylic fiber with a single fiber fineness of 3.3 dtex and 2 wt% of BWS (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., ET 10) is introduced into the cotton spinning process at a raw cotton ratio of 10% by mass, mixed with cotton after the opening process, then a sliver is made using a flat card, and the drawing process is carried out twice Yarns were prepared, and a spinning coefficient of 105, a metric count of 85 was obtained as a spun yarn a through the spinning process. The spun yarn a was wound on a cone in a winding process, and then twisted at a wet heat of 55 ° C. Next, a circular knitting machine with a 12-gauge (G) 24-neck knitting machine with a 1: 1 knitting ratio of the 85th spun yarn a thus prepared and the yarn B which is a polypropylene false-twisted yarn (56 dtex / 30f) The knitted fabric having a three-step smooth texture was used to intertwist and obtain a knitted fabric having a blending ratio of 65% by mass and a basis weight of 72 g / m 2 of the spun yarn a of the 85th count. The knitted fabric was dyed with a cationic dye at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes in a wet heat treatment using a jet flow dyeing machine. The obtained knitted fabric had a basis weight of 120 g / m 2 , and in this knitted fabric, the spun yarn a, which was 85th in metric count, was the 50th spun yarn A in metric count. Further, the obtained knitted fabric had a heat retention rate of 38% and was excellent in heat retention.

(実施例2)
実施例1で作成した撚係数が105、糸番手で85番手の紡績糸aと、ナイロン仮撚加工糸(30dtex/16f)である糸Bとを交編率が1:1で12ゲージ(G)24口の丸編機を用いてスムース組織の編地を交編し、前記85番手の紡績糸aの混率が78質量%、目付が99g/m2 の編成生地を得た。この編成生地を実施例1と同様にして染色した。得られた編地は目付が165g/m2 であり、この編地を構成する紡績糸Aは、前記85番手の紡績糸aが収縮してなり、メートル番手で50番手の太い染色糸となっていた。また、得られた編地は保温率が37%であり保温性に優れるものであった。
(Example 2)
The twisting ratio is 12 gauge (G) and the yarn B, which is a twisted coefficient of 105 for the twist coefficient prepared in Example 1 and a yarn count of 85, and a yarn B of nylon false twist textured yarn (30 dtex / 16 f) 2.) A smooth textured knitted fabric was cross-knitted using a 24-neck circular knitting machine to obtain a knitted fabric with a blend ratio of the 85th count spun yarn a of 78% by mass and a basis weight of 99 g / m 2 . The knitted fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric has a basis weight of 165 g / m 2 , and the spun yarn A constituting this knitted fabric is such that the above-described 85th count spun yarn a is shrunk to become a 50th count thick dyed yarn by metric count It was The obtained knitted fabric had a heat retention rate of 37% and was excellent in heat retention.

(実施例3)
実施例1で作成した高収縮性アクリル繊維(V85)を40質量%と、実施例1で用いたものと同じアクリル繊維(H616)を20質量%と、単繊維繊度が1.3dtexのレーヨン(Ry)を40質量%とを混綿した後、綿紡績工程を通し、撚係数が105、メートル番手で68番手の紡績糸aを作成した。このメートル番手で68番手の紡績糸aとFTY(30dtex/20f)である糸Bとを交編率が1:1で12ゲージ(G)24口の丸編機を用いて天竺組織の編地を交編し、前記68番手の紡績糸aの混率が87質量%、目付92g/m2 の編成生地を得た。この編成生地を実施例1と同様にして染色した。得られた編地は目付が153g/m2 であり、この編地を構成する紡績糸Aは、前記68番手の紡績糸aが収縮してなり、メートル番手で40番手の太い染色糸となっていた。また、得られた編地は保温率が31%であり十分に保温性を有するものであった。
(Example 3)
A rayon having 40% by mass of the high-shrinkable acrylic fiber (V85) prepared in Example 1, 20% by mass of the same acrylic fiber (H 616) as that used in Example 1, and a single fiber fineness of 1.3 dtex After blending Ry) with 40% by mass, through a cotton spinning process, a spun yarn a having a twisting factor of 105 and a metric count of 68 was produced. With this metric count, use a 12-gauge (G) 24-neck circular knitting machine with a knitting ratio of 1: 1 and a yarn B that is the 68th spun yarn a and FTY (30 dtex / 20 f), and knit the woven fabric of Tendon texture It was mixed knitting, mixing ratio is 87 mass% of the 68 fastest of the spun yarn a, to give a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 92 g / m 2. The knitted fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric has a fabric weight of 153 g / m 2 , and the spun yarn A constituting this knitted fabric is such that the above-mentioned 68 th count spun yarn a is shrunk to become a 40 th thick sewn yarn with a metric count It was In addition, the obtained knitted fabric had a heat retention rate of 31% and had sufficient heat retention.

(実施例4)
実施例3で作成した撚係数が105、メートル番手で68番手の紡績糸aと、ポリウレタン糸(30dtex/20f)を添えたポリプロピレン仮撚加工糸(56dtex/36f)である糸Bとを交編率が1:1で12ゲージ(G)24口の丸編機を用いてスムース組織の編地を交編し、前記68番手の紡績糸aの混率が63質量%、目付が112g/m2 の編成生地を得た。この編成生地を実施例1と同様にして染色した。得られた編地は目付が187g/m2 であり、この編地を構成する紡績糸Aは、前記68番手の紡績糸aが収縮してなり、メートル番手で40番手の太い染色糸となっていた。また、得られた編地は保温率が39%であり、保温性に優れるものであった。
(Example 4)
Cross-knitted yarn B, which is a polypropylene false-twisted yarn (56 dtex / 36 f) having a twist coefficient of 105 and a metric count of 68 and a polyurethane yarn (30 dtex / 20 f), prepared in Example 3 Using a 12 gauge (G) 24 mouth circular knitting machine with a ratio of 1: 1, the knitted fabric of smooth texture is interwoven, and the mixing ratio of the 68th count spun yarn a is 63% by mass and the basis weight is 112 g / m 2 I got a knitted fabric. The knitted fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric has a basis weight of 187 g / m 2 , and the spun yarn A constituting this knitted fabric becomes a result of shrinkage of the spun yarn a of number 68 and becomes a thick dyed yarn of number 40 in metric number It was Further, the obtained knitted fabric had a heat retention rate of 39% and was excellent in heat retention.

(実施例5)
実施例1で作成した高収縮性アクリル繊維(V85)を40質量%と、実施例1で用いたものと同じアクリル繊維(H616)を20質量%と、実施例3で用いたものと同じレーヨン(Ry)を20質量%と、及び木綿(Cotton)を20質量%との混率で混綿した後、綿紡績工程を通し、撚係数が105、メートル番手で85番手の紡績糸aを作成した。また、実施例1で用いたものと同じアクリル繊維(H616)を100質量%使用し、綿紡績工程を通しメートル番手で48番手の紡績糸である糸Bを作成し交編相手とした。前記85番手の紡績糸aと前記糸Bとを交編率が1:1で12ゲージ(G)24口の丸編機を用いて鹿の子組織の編地を交編し、前記85番手の紡績糸aの混率が36質量%、目付が110g/m2 の編成生地を得た。この編成生地を実施例1と同様にして染色した。得られた編地は目付が184g/m2 であり、この編地を構成する紡績糸Aは、前記85番手の紡績糸aが収縮してなり、メートル番手で50番手の太い染色糸となっていた。また、得られた編地は保温率が38%であり保温性に優れるものであった。
(Example 5)
The same rayon as used in Example 3 with 40% by mass of the high-shrinkable acrylic fiber (V85) prepared in Example 1 and with 20% by mass of the same acrylic fiber (H616) as used in Example 1 After mixing (Ry) with 20% by mass and cotton (Cotton) with a mixing ratio of 20% by mass, through a cotton spinning process, a spun yarn a having a twisting factor of 105 and a metric count of 85 was prepared. In addition, 100 mass% of the same acrylic fiber (H616) as that used in Example 1 was used, and a yarn B, which is a 48-th spun yarn, was made with a metric count through a cotton spinning process and used as a knitting partner. Using a 12-gauge (G) 24-neck circular knitting machine with a knitting ratio of 1: 1, the above-mentioned spun yarn of a 85th yarn and the yarn B is knitted with a knitted fabric of deerskin tissue, and spun of the 85th yarn. A knitted fabric with a blend ratio of yarn a of 36% by mass and a basis weight of 110 g / m 2 was obtained. The knitted fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. The knitted fabric thus obtained has a basis weight of 184 g / m 2 , and the spun yarn A constituting this knitted fabric is such that the above-mentioned spun yarn # 85 of number 85 shrinks and it becomes a thick dyed yarn of number 50 by metric number It was Further, the obtained knitted fabric had a heat retention rate of 38% and was excellent in heat retention.

(実施例6)
実施例1で作成した高収縮性アクリル繊維(V85)を30質量%と、実施例1で用いたと同じアクリル繊維(H129)を20質量%と、実施例1で用いたと同じアクリル繊維(H616)を40質量%と、実施例1で用いたものと同じアクリル繊維(ET10)を10質量%との混率で混綿した後、綿紡績工程を通し、撚係数が105、メートル番手で68番手の紡績糸aを作成した。前記68番手の紡績糸aと、中空プロピレン仮撚加工糸(135dtex/60f)である糸Bとを交編率が1:1で12ゲージ(G)24口の丸編機を用いてスムース組織の編地を交編し、前記68番手の紡績糸aの混率が66質量%、目付が72g/m2 の編成生地を得た。この編成生地を実施例1と同様にして染色した。得られた編地は目付が124g/m2 であり、この編地を構成する紡績糸Aは、前記68番手の紡績糸aが収縮してなり、メートル番手で40番手の太い染色糸となっていた。また、得られた編地は保温率が37%であり、保温性に優れるものであった。
(Example 6)
30% by mass of the high-shrinkage acrylic fiber (V85) prepared in Example 1 and 20% by mass of the same acrylic fiber (H129) as used in Example 1 The same acrylic fiber (H616) as used in Example 1 Of 40% by weight, and the same acrylic fiber (ET10) as used in Example 1 at a mixing ratio of 10% by weight, and then through a cotton spinning process; The thread a was made. Smooth knitting structure using a 12-gauge (G) 24-neck circular knitting machine with a knitting ratio of 1: 1: the 68th spun yarn a and the yarn B which is a hollow propylene false twisted yarn (135 dtex / 60f) was mixed knitting a knitted fabric, a mixing ratio is 66 mass% of the 68 fastest of the spun yarn a, basis weight was obtained knitted fabric 72 g / m 2. The knitted fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric has a basis weight of 124 g / m 2 , and the spun yarn A constituting this knitted fabric becomes a result of shrinkage of the spun yarn a of number 68 and becomes a thick dyed yarn of number 40 in metric number It was Further, the obtained knitted fabric had a heat retention rate of 37% and was excellent in heat retention.

(比較例1)
実施例1で作成した撚係数が105、メートル番手で85番手の紡績糸aを綛染めして収縮させ紡績糸Aを得た。その後編成するため、紡績糸Aを綛から糸管に巻き取ろうとしたが、染色した紡績糸Aが切断し、糸管に巻き取ることができなかった。
(Comparative example 1)
The twisted coefficient a prepared in Example 1 was 105, and the 85-th spun yarn a was wound-dyed with a metric count and contracted to obtain a spun yarn A. Although it was tried to wind up the spun yarn A from the cocoon to the yarn tube for knitting, the dyed spun yarn A was cut and could not be wound up on the yarn tube.

(比較例2)
実施例1で用いたものと同じアクリル繊維(H129)を60質量%と、木綿(Cotton)を40質量%との混率で、撚係数が105、メートル番手で85番手の紡績糸を作成した。また、実施例1で用いたものと同じアクリル繊維(H616)を100質量%使用し綿紡績工程を通しメートル番手で48番手の紡績糸である糸Bを作成し交編相手とした。前述のメートル番手で85番手の紡績糸aと48番手の紡績糸Bとを交編率が1:1で12G24口の丸編機を用いて天竺組織の編地を交編し、前記メートル番手で85番手の紡績糸の混率が36質量%、目付が184g/m2 の編成生地を得た。この編成生地を実施例1と同様にして染色した。得られた編地は目付が184g/m2 であり、この編地において、編成生地ではメートル番手で85番手であった前記紡績糸aはメートル番手で70番手の染色糸となっており、得られた編地は保温率が24%であり、十分な保温性は得られなかった。
以上の実施例、比較例における編地の構成、評価項目をまとめて表1 に示す。
(Comparative example 2)
At a mixing ratio of 60% by mass of acrylic fiber (H129) and 40% by mass of Cotton, the same as that used in Example 1, a spun yarn having a twisting factor of 105 and a metric count of 85 was produced. In addition, 100 mass% of the same acrylic fiber (H616) as that used in Example 1 was used, and a cotton spinning process was carried out, and a yarn B, which was a 48-th spun yarn, was made with a metric count and used as a knitting partner. Using the 12G24 circular knitting machine with a cross knitting ratio of 1: 1 with a spinning ratio of 1: 85 and a spun yarn B of the 48 th with the above-mentioned metric count, the knitted fabric of Tengu fabric is interwoven, A knitted fabric with a blend ratio of 85% count spun yarn of 36% by mass and a basis weight of 184 g / m 2 was obtained. The knitted fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric has a basis weight of 184 g / m 2 , and in this knitted fabric, the spun yarn a, which was 85th in metric count in the knitted fabric, is 70th in colored metric yarn, The knitted fabric had a heat retention rate of 24%, and sufficient heat retention was not obtained.
The constitution of the knitted fabric and the evaluation items in the above-described Examples and Comparative Examples are summarized in Table 1.

Figure 0006536591
Figure 0006536591

本発明の編地は、目付が200g/m2 以下と小さく軽量でありながら、保温性に優れたものであり、肌着等のインナー衣料、寝装具、スポーツ衣料等の素材として好適なるものであり、本発明の編地を商業的に容易に提供することができる。The knitted fabric of the present invention is small and lightweight with a fabric weight of 200 g / m 2 or less and excellent in heat retention, and is suitable as a material for inner garments such as underwear, sleeping equipment, sports clothing, etc. , The knitted fabric of the present invention can be easily provided commercially.

Claims (16)

熱収縮させたアクリル繊維を含有し、伸度が15%〜30%であり、メートル番手で30番手〜65番手の紡績糸Aと、メートル番手で40番手〜350番手の糸B
前記紡績糸Aで2コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているか、
前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成されて交編されているか、
前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで2コース編成されて交編されているか、または、
前記紡績糸Aで1コース編成され続いて前記糸Bで3コース編成されて交編されてなる編地。
Containing acrylic fibers obtained by heat-shrinkage, elongation is 15% to 30%, and yarn A of 30 fastest 65 fastest in metric count, yarn B of 40 fastest 350 fastest in metric count,
Two courses are formed by the spun yarn A, and then, one course is formed by the yarn B and interwoven ,
Whether one course is knitted with the spun yarn A and subsequently one course is knitted with the yarn B,
One course is knitted by the spun yarn A, and then two courses are knitted by the yarn B, or
3 course organized by knitted fabric formed by mixed knitting and subsequently is one course organized in the yarn B in the spun yarn A.
前記アクリル繊維の熱収縮させる前の沸水収縮率が30%〜45%である請求項1に記載の編地。The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a boiling water shrinkage ratio before heat contraction of the acrylic fiber is 30% to 45%. 保温率が30%以上である請求項1または2に記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the heat retention rate is 30% or more. 編地の目付が100g/m〜200g/mである請求項1〜3のいずれか一項に記載の編地。 Knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 weight per unit area of the knitted fabric is 100g / m 2 ~200g / m 2 . (保温率)/(編地の目付)が、0.18〜0.35である請求項1〜のいずれか一項に記載の編地。 (Heat retention rate) / (weight of knitted fabric) is 0.18 to 0.35, The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4 . 前記編地に対する前記紡績糸Aの混率が35質量%〜95質量%である請求項1〜のいずれか一項に記載の編地。 The blend ratio of the said spun yarn A with respect to the said knitted fabric is 35 mass%-95 mass%, The knitted fabric as described in any one of Claims 1-5 . 前記紡績糸Aの嵩高性が8cm/g〜20cm/gである請求項1〜のいずれか一項に記載の編地。 Knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1-6 bulkiness of the yarn A is 8cm 3 / g~20cm 3 / g. 前記編地に対する前記糸Bの混率が5質量%〜65質量%である請求項1〜のいずれか一項に記載の編地。 Knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7 mixing ratio is 5 mass% to 65 mass% of the yarn B with respect to the knitted fabric. 前記紡績糸Aが、アクリル繊維を100質量%含有する紡績糸またはアクリル繊維を30質量%以上含有し、他の繊維としてセルロース系繊維及び獣毛繊維の群から選ばれる1種以上を含有する紡績糸である請求項1〜のいずれか一項に記載の編地。 The spun yarn A contains 30% by mass or more of a spun yarn containing 100% by mass of acrylic fiber or acrylic fiber, and includes at least one selected from the group of cellulosic fibers and animal hair fibers as other fibers. 9. The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8 , which is a yarn. 前記糸Bがフィラメント加工糸、紡績糸及び弾性糸の群から選ばれる1種以上である請求項1〜のいずれか一項に記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9 , wherein the yarn B is at least one selected from the group consisting of filament processed yarn, spun yarn and elastic yarn. 沸水収縮率が30%〜45%であるアクリル繊維を30質量%〜45質量%含む紡績糸aと、糸の太さが、メートル番手で40番手〜350番手である糸Bとを、前記紡績糸aで2コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成するか、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで1コース編成するか、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで2コース編成するか、または、前記紡績糸aで1コース編成し続いて前記糸Bで3コース編成し交編して編成生地を作製し、該編成生地を70℃以上の湿熱で加熱して、前記紡績糸aに含まれる高収縮性繊維を熱収縮させて紡績糸Aとした編地とし、該編地を構成する紡績糸Aを前記紡績糸aより太くかつメートル番手で30番手〜70番手の太さとする編地の製造方法。 The spun yarn a containing 30% by mass to 45% by mass of acrylic fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% to 45%, and the yarn B having a yarn count of 40th to 350th in metric count, Two courses of yarn a and then one course of yarn B, or one course of yarn a and then one course of yarn B, or one course of yarn a The yarn B is knitted for 2 courses, or the yarn B is knitted for 1 course and subsequently the yarn B is knitted for 3 courses and cross-knitted to produce a knitted fabric, the knitted fabric is 70 ° C. or higher The fabric is heated by wet heat to thermally shrink the high shrinkage fibers contained in the spun yarn a to make a knitted fabric as a spun yarn A, and the spun yarn A constituting the knitted fabric is thicker than the spun yarn a and is a metric count The method of manufacturing a knitted fabric with a thickness of 30th to 70th. 前記紡績糸aは、メートル番手が50番手〜100番手である請求項11に記載の編地の製造方法。 The method for producing a knitted fabric according to claim 11 , wherein the spun yarn a has a metric count of 50 to 100. 前記編成生地の目付を60g/m〜120g/mとし、当該編成生地を70℃以上の湿熱で加熱して編地の目付を100g/m〜200g/mとする請求項11または12に記載の編地の製造方法。 Wherein the basis weight of the knitted fabric and 60g / m 2 ~120g / m 2 , or claim 11 the basis weight of the knitted fabric by the knitting fabric was heated at 70 ° C. or more wet heat and 100g / m 2 ~200g / m 2 The manufacturing method of the knitted fabric as described in 12 . 前記紡績糸aとして、撚係数が95〜110の撚りのある紡績糸を用いる請求項1113のいずれか一項に記載の編地の製造方法。 The method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of claims 11 to 13 , wherein a spun yarn having a twist coefficient of 95 to 110 is used as the spun yarn a. 前記糸Bとして、フィラメント加工糸、紡績糸及び弾性糸の群から選ばれる1種以上を用いる請求項1114のいずれか一項に記載の編地の製造方法。 As the yarn B, filament yarn, the knitted fabric manufacturing method according to any one of claims 11 to 14, use at least one member selected from the group of the spun yarn and the elastic yarn. 編地の編成に際し、10ゲージ〜14ゲージの丸編機を用いる請求項1115のいずれか一項に記載の編地の製造方法。 The method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of claims 11 to 15 , wherein a 10 gauge to 14 gauge circular knitting machine is used for knitting the knitted fabric.
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