JP5785720B2 - Knitted fabric and textile products using the same - Google Patents
Knitted fabric and textile products using the same Download PDFInfo
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- JP5785720B2 JP5785720B2 JP2011019983A JP2011019983A JP5785720B2 JP 5785720 B2 JP5785720 B2 JP 5785720B2 JP 2011019983 A JP2011019983 A JP 2011019983A JP 2011019983 A JP2011019983 A JP 2011019983A JP 5785720 B2 JP5785720 B2 JP 5785720B2
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 68
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title claims description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 85
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims description 50
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 claims description 43
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 33
- 229920002972 Acrylic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 13
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 12
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 9
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 4
- 241000723353 Chrysanthemum Species 0.000 description 3
- 235000007516 Chrysanthemum Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000005068 transpiration Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001877 deodorizing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000020169 heat generation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 240000001548 Camellia japonica Species 0.000 description 1
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001407 Modal (textile) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002978 Vinylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000018597 common camellia Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000009508 confectionery Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003795 desorption Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009413 insulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001000 micrograph Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002239 polyacrylonitrile Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000098 polyolefin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004627 regenerated cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- -1 silk Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000002435 tendon Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000011800 void material Substances 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
Description
本発明は、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維を２０質量％以上含む混紡紡績糸からなる編物及びそれを用いた繊維製品に関する。 The present invention relates to a knitted fabric made of a blended spun yarn containing 20% by mass or more of rayon fiber having a flat cross-sectional shape and a fiber product using the same.
従来より再生セルロース繊維は、その柔軟性、吸湿性、保湿性や発色性が高く、衣料品から資材に至るまで幅広く使用されている。中でもレーヨン繊維は、紡績工程や加工工程での工程通過性も良好で、比較的安価であることから繊維製品に多く使用されている。更に近年ではアクリル繊維等と組合せた吸湿発熱素材も見られる。しかしながら、レーヨン繊維を用いた織物や編物は、ハリとコシが弱く、皺になりやすく、且つへたり易い性質を有しており、手持ち感が重くなるということで、用途的な制約を受ける場合がある。これらの問題を解決するため、異型断面の平均重合度４００以上の再生繊維を含む紡績糸からなり、再生繊維が割繊化及び／又はフイブリル化された布帛が提案されている（特許文献１）。また、扁平率０．６５〜０．１０のビスコースレーヨンフィラメント糸条と繊維糸条を交撚してなるレーヨン交撚糸の提案もある（特許文献２）。さらに紡績糸の撚り係数を高くする方法もなされている。 Conventionally, regenerated cellulose fibers have high flexibility, moisture absorption, moisture retention and color development, and are widely used from clothing to materials. Among them, rayon fibers are often used in fiber products because they have good processability in spinning and processing processes and are relatively inexpensive. In recent years, moisture-absorbing exothermic materials combined with acrylic fibers or the like are also seen. However, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics that use rayon fibers are weak and firm, tend to become wrinkles, and are easy to sag. There is. In order to solve these problems, there has been proposed a fabric made of spun yarn containing recycled fibers having an average cross-section of an average degree of polymerization of 400 or more, and the recycled fibers being split and / or fibrillated (Patent Document 1). . In addition, there is also a proposal of a rayon knitted yarn obtained by knitting a viscose rayon filament yarn and a fiber yarn having a flatness ratio of 0.65 to 0.10 (Patent Document 2). Furthermore, a method for increasing the twist coefficient of the spun yarn has also been made.
しかし、これらの提案においても、ハリとコシについて満足できるものが得られていないのが現状である。 However, even in these proposals, the present situation is that no satisfactory one has been obtained for elasticity and stiffness.
本発明は、前記従来の問題を解決するため、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維を２０質量％以上含む混紡紡績糸を用いることにより、ハリ、コシに優れた編物及びこれを用いた繊維製品を提供することを目的とする。 In order to solve the above-described conventional problems, the present invention provides a knitted fabric excellent in elasticity and stiffness by using a mixed spun yarn containing 20% by mass or more of a rayon fiber having a flat cross-sectional shape, and a fiber product using the same. The purpose is to do.
前記目的を達成するため、本発明の編物は、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維を２０質量％以上含み、撚係数が３．５〜５．０の混紡紡績糸からなる編物であって、当該編物のＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６ Ａ法による剛軟度が１７〜３８ｍｍであり、ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１８ Ｆ法によるドレープ係数が０．１２〜０．２５であることを特徴とする。又、本発明は、前記編物を用いた繊維製品をも提供する。 In order to achieve the above object, the knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric comprising a blended spun yarn having a cross-sectional shape of 20% by mass or more of a flat rayon fiber and a twist coefficient of 3.5 to 5.0, The bending resistance by JIS L 1096 A method is 17-38 mm, and the drape coefficient by JIS L 1018 F method is 0.12-0.25. The present invention also provides a textile product using the knitted fabric.
本発明の編物は、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維を２０質量％以上含み、撚係数が３．５〜５．０の混紡紡績糸からなる編物であって、当該編物のＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６ Ａ法による剛軟度が１７〜３８ｍｍであり、ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１８ Ｆ法によるドレープ係数が０．１２〜０．２５であることにより、ハリ、コシに優れた編物及びそれを用いた繊維製品を提供することができる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric comprising a blended spun yarn having a cross-sectional shape of 20% by mass or more of a flat rayon fiber and a twist coefficient of 3.5 to 5.0, according to JIS L 1096 A method. By providing a bending resistance of 17 to 38 mm and a drape coefficient of 0.12 to 0.25 according to JIS L 1018 F method, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric excellent in elasticity and stiffness and a fiber product using the same. it can.
本発明の編物に用いる混紡紡績糸は、レーヨン繊維の断面形状が扁平であることが好ましい。通常（レギュラー）のレーヨン繊維の断面形状は菊花状あるいは干し柿状と称されるような形態をしている。本発明における断面形状が扁平とは菊花状あるいは干し柿状以外の形態であることをいう。本発明に用いられるレーヨン繊維断面の扁平比は、長辺／短辺の倍率は、３〜９であることが好ましい。この断面形状が扁平であるレーヨン繊維は、例えば、ダイワボウレーヨン社、ケルハイム社等レーヨン繊維メーカーから入手することができる。また、本発明に用いられるレーヨン繊維は、断面形状が扁平であり、各々の繊維の扁平形状は様々な形状を含み不定形のものを含むのが好ましい。それによって、レーヨン繊維の曲げかたさが強くなり、編物のハリ、コシが優れたものとなる。具体的な不定形の断面としては、扁平断面がＩ字型、Ｌ字型、Ｕ字型、Ｊ字型、Ｖ字型等に変形した扁平の異形断面を有し、中空部を含んでもよい。なお、変形した扁平の断面を有する繊維の扁平比は、顕微鏡写真から繊維断面を自在定規等を用いて長辺及び短辺の長さから求めるとよい。 The blended spun yarn used for the knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a flat cross-sectional shape of the rayon fiber. A normal (regular) rayon fiber has a cross-sectional shape called a chrysanthemum flower shape or a dried camellia shape. In the present invention, the flat cross-sectional shape means a form other than the chrysanthemum or dried cocoon. Regarding the flatness ratio of the cross section of the rayon fiber used in the present invention, the ratio of long side / short side is preferably 3-9. Rayon fibers having a flat cross-sectional shape can be obtained from rayon fiber manufacturers such as Daiwabo Rayon and Kelheim. In addition, the rayon fiber used in the present invention has a flat cross-sectional shape, and the flat shape of each fiber preferably includes various shapes and irregular shapes. As a result, the bending of the rayon fiber becomes strong, and the knitted fabric has excellent elasticity and stiffness. As a specific irregular cross section, the flat cross section has a flat deformed cross section deformed into an I shape, an L shape, a U shape, a J shape, a V shape, etc., and may include a hollow portion. . The flatness ratio of the fiber having a deformed flat cross section may be obtained from the length of the long side and the short side of the fiber cross section from a micrograph using a free ruler or the like.
前記混紡紡績糸においては、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維を２０質量％以上含むことが好ましい。より好ましくは４０質量％以上である。断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維が２０質量％未満であると、それを用いて編物にした場合、ハリ、コシといった効果を得られなくなるからである。一方、前記扁平のレーヨン繊維が混紡紡績糸に占める好ましい上限は８５質量％であり、より好ましくは７０質量％である。扁平のレーヨン繊維が上限を超えても、ハリ、コシに及ぼす影響が小さいからである。 The blended spun yarn preferably contains 20% by mass or more of rayon fibers having a flat cross-sectional shape. More preferably, it is 40 mass% or more. This is because when the amount of the rayon fiber having a flat cross-sectional shape is less than 20% by mass, effects such as elasticity and stiffness cannot be obtained when a knitted fabric is used. On the other hand, the preferable upper limit of the flat rayon fiber in the blended spun yarn is 85% by mass, more preferably 70% by mass. This is because even if the flat rayon fiber exceeds the upper limit, the effect on elasticity and stiffness is small.
前記混紡紡績糸においては、レーヨン繊維の単繊維の繊度は０．６〜６．６ｄｔｅｘの範囲であり、好ましくは、０．９〜２．５ｄｔｅｘの範囲である。繊度が、０．６ｄｔｅｘ未満では、紡績工程中のカード工程でネップが発生し、織編物の品位を損なう恐れがあり、６．６ｄｔｅｘを超えると糸の構成本数が減少し、糸強力の低下や、紡出番手の制約を受けることとなる。 In the blended spun yarn, the fineness of the single fiber of the rayon fiber is in the range of 0.6 to 6.6 dtex, and preferably in the range of 0.9 to 2.5 dtex. If the fineness is less than 0.6 dtex, a nep may occur in the carding process during the spinning process, which may impair the quality of the knitted or knitted fabric. , Will be subject to spinning count restrictions.
また前記混紡紡績糸においては、レーヨン繊維の繊維長は２５〜１００ｍｍの範囲にあることが好ましい。より好ましくは３２〜５１ｍｍである。繊維長が２５ｍｍ未満であると糸を構成することが難しくなり、１００ｍｍを超えると紡績方法が制約され、汎用性が低下するといった問題がある。 In the blended spun yarn, the fiber length of the rayon fiber is preferably in the range of 25 to 100 mm. More preferably, it is 32-51 mm. If the fiber length is less than 25 mm, it is difficult to form a yarn. If the fiber length exceeds 100 mm, the spinning method is restricted, and the versatility is lowered.
前記混紡紡績糸においては、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維に天然繊維、再生繊維及び合成繊維を任意の割合で混合してもよい。混合する繊維の具体例としては、綿、麻、シルク、ビスコースレーヨン、ポリノジック、ポリエステル、ポリアミド、ポリアクリロニトリル、ポリオレフィン、ポリウレタン、ビニロン等が使用でき、これらを組み合わせて使用してもよい。また、合成繊維においては、例えば、三角、Ｌ型，Ｔ型、Ｙ型、Ｈ型、Ｉ型やＷ型等の異型断面繊維を用いることもできる。他繊維は、長繊維、短繊維のいずれであってもよい。 In the blended spun yarn, natural fibers, regenerated fibers, and synthetic fibers may be mixed with rayon fibers having a flat cross-sectional shape at an arbitrary ratio. As specific examples of the fibers to be mixed, cotton, hemp, silk, viscose rayon, polynosic, polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, polyolefin, polyurethane, vinylon and the like may be used, and these may be used in combination. In the synthetic fiber, for example, a modified cross-section fiber such as a triangle, L-type, T-type, Y-type, H-type, I-type or W-type can also be used. The other fibers may be either long fibers or short fibers.
断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維に混合する繊維の単繊維の繊度は０．６〜６．６ｄｔｅｘの範囲であり、好ましくは、０．９〜２．５ｄｔｅｘの範囲である。理由は上述したように、繊度が、０．６ｄｔｅｘ未満では、紡績工程中のカード工程でネップが発生し、織編物の品位を損なう恐れがあり、６．６ｄｔｅｘを超えると糸の構成本数が減少し、糸強力の低下や、紡出番手の制約を受けることとなる。 The fineness of the single fiber mixed with the rayon fiber having a flat cross-sectional shape is in the range of 0.6 to 6.6 dtex, and preferably in the range of 0.9 to 2.5 dtex. As described above, if the fineness is less than 0.6 dtex, there is a risk of nipping in the carding process during the spinning process, which may impair the quality of the woven or knitted fabric. If the fineness exceeds 6.6 dtex, the number of yarn components decreases. However, the yarn strength is reduced and the spinning count is restricted.
断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維に混合する繊維の繊維長は、２５〜１００ｍｍの範囲にあることが好ましい。より好ましくは３２〜５１ｍｍである。理由は上述したように、繊維長が２５ｍｍ未満であると糸を構成することが難しくなり、１００ｍｍを超えると紡績方法が制約され、汎用性が低下するといった問題がある。なお、綿の繊維長については大量高速棉花品質測定機（ＨＶＩ）にて測定されるＵｐｐｅｒＨａｌｆＭｅａｎＬｅｎｇｔｈ（ＵＨＭＬ）のことをいう。 The fiber length of the fiber mixed with the rayon fiber having a flat cross-sectional shape is preferably in the range of 25 to 100 mm. More preferably, it is 32-51 mm. The reason is that, as described above, if the fiber length is less than 25 mm, it is difficult to form a yarn, and if it exceeds 100 mm, the spinning method is restricted and the versatility is lowered. In addition, about the fiber length of cotton, it means UpperHalfMeanLength (UHML) measured with a mass high-speed cocoon flower quality measuring machine (HVI).
また前記混紡紡績糸においては、撚係数は３．５〜５．０の範囲にあることが好ましい。より好ましくは３．８〜４．５である。撚係数は、単位長さ（１インチ）間の糸の撚数を英式綿番手の平方根で除した数値で求められる。前記混紡紡績糸の撚係数は通常の綿糸に比して高い値となっている。これは、よりハリ、コシを出すためである。撚係数が３．５未満であると甘撚すぎて糸の強力が劣り、５．０を超えると生産性への悪影響を及ぼすおそれがある。 In the mixed spun yarn, the twist coefficient is preferably in the range of 3.5 to 5.0. More preferably, it is 3.8 to 4.5. The twist coefficient is determined by a numerical value obtained by dividing the number of twists of a yarn between unit lengths (1 inch) by the square root of an English cotton count. The twist coefficient of the blended spun yarn is higher than that of normal cotton yarn. This is to make it more firm and firm. If the twisting coefficient is less than 3.5, the yarn is too sweet and the yarn strength is inferior. If it exceeds 5.0, the productivity may be adversely affected.
本発明の編物は、なかでも断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維とポリエステル繊維との混合形態にした編物とすると、抗ピリング性に優れる。ポリエステル繊維は異型断面のものを用いることもでき、断面形状がＷ型であることが好ましい。これは、ポリエステル繊維の断面形状をＷ型にすることにより、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維との混紡状態がより良好になるためと考えられる。抗ピリング性は３級以上であることが望ましい。抗ピリング性の測定方法は後述する。この場合、扁平のレーヨン繊維とポリエステル繊維の好ましい混紡比（レーヨン／ポリエステル）は、２／８〜８／２である。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in anti-pilling property when it is a knitted fabric in which a cross-sectional shape is a flat rayon fiber and a polyester fiber. The polyester fiber can also have an irregular cross-section, and the cross-sectional shape is preferably W-shaped. This is presumably because the cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber is made W-shaped, so that the blended state with the rayon fiber having a flat cross-sectional shape becomes better. It is desirable that the anti-pilling property is grade 3 or higher. A method for measuring the anti-pilling property will be described later. In this case, the preferable blending ratio (rayon / polyester) of the flat rayon fiber and the polyester fiber is 2/8 to 8/2.
また、本発明の編物は、断面形状が扁平のレーヨン繊維とアクリル繊維との混合形態とした編物とすると、保温性に優れる。これは、アクリル繊維が丸断面であるものの、扁平のレーヨン繊維と組合せで空隙が形成され、空気層が形成されるためと考えられる。アクリル繊維は高収縮繊維を用いることもできる。保温性の観点からは、高収縮アクリル繊維が多い方がよいが、ハリ、コシの観点からは、通常（レギュラー）のアクリル繊維（非収縮または低収縮アクリル）が多い方が好ましい。なお、両面を勘案すると通常のアクリル繊維と高収縮アクリル繊維の割合（通常のアクリル／高収縮アクリル）は１／９〜９／１であることが好ましく、同量（５／５）であることがより好ましい。なお、高収縮アクリル繊維とは、例えば、沸水収縮率が１０％以上、好ましくは２０〜３０％のものをいう。高収縮アクリル繊維を含む紡績糸あるいは編物を熱処理することにより、バルキー性を与えることができる。保温率の値が大きい程、編物の保温性が高い。本発明の編物の構成中、前記の構成の保温率は２０〜３５％の範囲であり、保温性が高いレベルであり暖かみがある好ましい範囲である。保温率の値がこの範囲からはずれる場合は寒くなり、保温率の値がこれ以上の高いレベルを得ることは困難である。保温率の測定方法は後述する。この場合、扁平のレーヨン繊維とアクリル繊維の好ましい混紡比（レーヨン／アクリル）は、２／８〜８／２である。 Moreover, when the knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric in which a cross-sectional shape is a flat rayon fiber and an acrylic fiber, the heat retaining property is excellent. This is probably because although the acrylic fiber has a round cross section, a void is formed in combination with the flat rayon fiber, and an air layer is formed. A highly shrinkable fiber can also be used as the acrylic fiber. From the viewpoint of heat retention, it is better that there are many high-shrinkage acrylic fibers, but from the viewpoint of elasticity and stiffness, it is preferable that there are more ordinary (regular) acrylic fibers (non-shrinkage or low-shrinkage acrylic). In consideration of both sides, the ratio of normal acrylic fiber and high-shrinkage acrylic fiber (normal acrylic / high-shrinkage acrylic) is preferably 1/9 to 9/1, and the same amount (5/5). Is more preferable. In addition, the high shrinkage acrylic fiber means, for example, a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10% or more, preferably 20 to 30%. The bulkiness can be imparted by heat-treating the spun yarn or knitted fabric containing the highly shrinkable acrylic fiber. The greater the value of the heat retention rate, the higher the heat retention of the knitted fabric. In the structure of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the heat retention rate of the above structure is in the range of 20 to 35%, which is a preferable range where the heat retaining property is high and warm. When the value of the heat retention rate is out of this range, it becomes cold, and it is difficult to obtain a higher level than the value of the heat retention rate. A method for measuring the heat retention rate will be described later. In this case, the preferable blending ratio (rayon / acrylic) of the flat rayon fiber and the acrylic fiber is 2/8 to 8/2.
前記混紡紡績糸においては、レーヨン繊維又は任意の繊維に抗菌、消臭等の各種機能をもたせてもよい。こうすることで、抗菌や消臭機能等各種機能も併せもつ糸が得られるからである。 In the blended spun yarn, rayon fibers or arbitrary fibers may be provided with various functions such as antibacterial and deodorizing. This is because a yarn having various functions such as antibacterial and deodorizing functions can be obtained.
前記混紡紡績糸においては、混紡紡績糸はリング紡績糸、オープンエンド紡績糸、結束紡績糸、渦流紡績糸などであってもよいが、リング紡績糸であることが好ましい。 In the blended spun yarn, the blended spun yarn may be a ring spun yarn, an open end spun yarn, a bundle spun yarn, a vortex spun yarn, or the like, but is preferably a ring spun yarn.
本発明の混紡紡績糸の番手は特に制約はないが、生産性、品質の安定性から２０〜６０番手（英式綿番手）が好ましい。 The count of the blended spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but 20 to 60 (English cotton count) is preferable from the viewpoint of productivity and quality stability.
本発明の編物については、特に組織、密度、目付等限定はなく、例えば、平編、ゴム編、フライス編、スムース編、その他の編組織等が適用できる。また、本発明の編物は、前処理工程を含めた染色工程を経たものも含まれる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited in structure, density, basis weight, and the like, and for example, flat knitting, rubber knitting, milling knitting, smooth knitting, and other knitting structures can be applied. In addition, the knitted fabric of the present invention includes those that have undergone a dyeing process including a pretreatment process.
本発明の編物のハリ、コシを評価する指標は剛軟度である。本発明の編物の剛軟度は１７〜３８ｍｍであることが必要である。剛軟度が３８ｍｍより大きいと編物の風合が硬くなり、例えば衣料に用いたときに着用者に不快な印象を与えることがある。また、１７ｍｍ未満では、編物の風合が柔らかくなりすぎ、所望のハリ、コシが得られない。剛軟度の測定方法は後述する。 The index for evaluating the elasticity and stiffness of the knitted fabric of the present invention is the bending resistance. The bending resistance of the knitted fabric of the present invention is required to be 17 to 38 mm. When the bending resistance is greater than 38 mm, the texture of the knitted fabric becomes hard and may give an unpleasant impression to the wearer when used for clothing, for example. On the other hand, if the thickness is less than 17 mm, the knitted fabric feels too soft and desired elasticity and stiffness cannot be obtained. A method for measuring the bending resistance will be described later.
また、本発明の編物のハリ、コシを評価する指標はドレープ係数である。ドレープ係数は、０．１２〜０．２５の範囲が好ましく、さらに、０．１２〜０．１５の範囲がより好ましい。ドレープ係数が小さいほど身体に対する接触性が大きくなり、また、ウエアとなった場合のシルエットを充分発揮させることができるが、編物のハリ、コシを満足するためには上記範囲が好ましい。ドレープ係数の測定方法は後述する。 An index for evaluating the elasticity and stiffness of the knitted fabric of the present invention is a drape coefficient. The drape coefficient is preferably in the range of 0.12 to 0.25, and more preferably in the range of 0.12 to 0.15. The smaller the drape coefficient, the greater the contact with the body, and the sufficient silhouette can be achieved when it becomes a wear. However, the above range is preferable in order to satisfy the firmness and stiffness of the knitted fabric. A method for measuring the drape coefficient will be described later.
本発明の編物は、吸湿発熱性能にも優れている。吸湿発熱性能を評価する方法として、恒温恒湿内にて、２０℃４０％ＲＨの環境下で２時間処理後、２０℃９０％ＲＨに変化させたときの温度変化を測定した。扁平レーヨン繊維４０％、アクリル繊維６０％の本発明の編物と綿繊維５０％、アクリル繊維５０％の編物（編物の組織、目付同じ）を比較した場合、約５分経過後に約１℃の温度差がみられる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is also excellent in moisture absorption heat generation performance. As a method for evaluating the hygroscopic heat generation performance, the temperature change was measured when the temperature was changed to 20 ° C. and 90% RH after treatment for 2 hours in a constant temperature and humidity environment at 20 ° C. and 40% RH. When comparing the knitted fabric of the present invention with 40% flat rayon fiber and 60% acrylic fiber and the knitted fabric with 50% cotton fiber and 50% acrylic fiber (the knitted fabric has the same basis weight), the temperature is about 1 ° C. after about 5 minutes. There is a difference.
本発明の編物は、蒸散性にも優れている。蒸散性を評価する方法として、ボーケン二法により、６０分後の乾燥率を測定した。扁平レーヨン繊維４０％、ポリエステル繊維６０％の本発明の編物とレーヨン繊維５０％、ポリエステル繊維５０％の編物（編物の組織、目付同じ）を比較した場合、蒸散性において約１５％の差が見られ、本発明の編物の方が乾燥し易いという効果がみられる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is also excellent in transpiration. As a method for evaluating transpiration, the drying rate after 60 minutes was measured by the Boken two method. When comparing the knitted fabric of the present invention with 40% flat rayon fiber and 60% polyester fiber and the knitted fabric with 50% rayon fiber and 50% polyester fiber (the knitted fabric has the same basis weight), there is a difference of about 15% in transpiration. Thus, the knitted fabric of the present invention has an effect of being easily dried.
本発明の編物は、吸・放湿特性にも優れている。吸・放湿特性を評価する方法として、生地を絶乾状態から４０℃９０％ＲＨの環境に変化させ、その後２０℃６５％ＲＨの環境へと変化させたときの生地の水分率を測定した。扁平レーヨン繊維４０％、アクリル繊維６０％の本発明の編物と綿繊維５０％、アクリル繊維５０％の編物（編物の組織、目付同じ）を比較した場合、約５％の水分率の差が見られ、本発明の編物の方が多湿状態で湿気を多く吸収するという効果がみられる。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is also excellent in moisture absorption and moisture release characteristics. As a method for evaluating the moisture absorption and desorption characteristics, the moisture content of the dough was measured when the dough was changed from an absolutely dry state to an environment of 40 ° C. and 90% RH and then changed to an environment of 20 ° C. and 65% RH. . When comparing the knitted fabric of the present invention with 40% flat rayon fiber and 60% acrylic fiber and the knitted fabric with 50% cotton fiber and 50% acrylic fiber (the knitted fabric has the same basis weight), the difference in moisture content is about 5%. In addition, the knitted fabric of the present invention has the effect of absorbing much moisture in a humid state.
本発明の編物は、通常の編物と同様、繊維製品の素材として用いられて繊維製品を与える。具体的には、下着、肌着、スポーツ衣料、ポロシャツ、防寒衣料等様々な繊維製品が提供される。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a raw material for a textile product in the same manner as an ordinary knitted fabric to give a textile product. Specifically, various textile products such as underwear, underwear, sports clothing, polo shirts, and cold clothing are provided.
以下実施例にて、本発明の内容を具体的に説明するが、本発明は下記の実施例に限定されるものではない。なお、下記の実施例の性能は、以下の方法で測定した。 EXAMPLES The content of the present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. The performance of the following examples was measured by the following method.
（剛軟度の測定）ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６ Ａ法により剛軟度を測定した。 (Measurement of bending resistance) The bending resistance was measured by the JIS L 1096 A method.
（ドレープ係数の測定）ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１８ Ｆ法によりドレープ係数を測定した。 (Measurement of drape coefficient) The drape coefficient was measured by the JIS L 1018 F method.
（抗ピリング性の測定）ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０７６ Ａ法により抗ピリング性を測定した。 (Measurement of anti-pilling property) Anti-pilling property was measured by JIS L 1076 A method.
（保温率の測定）ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０１８ Ａ法により保温率を測定した。 (Measurement of heat retention rate) The heat retention rate was measured by the JIS L 1018 A method.
（ハリ、コシの評価）
５名の社内モニターに３日間使用させて、使用期間中のハリ、コシの評価を以下の基準で行った。
×：モニターの２名以下がハリ、コシがあると回答
△：モニターの３名がハリ、コシがあると回答
○：モニターの４名以上がハリ、コシがあると回答
(Evaluation of elasticity and stiffness)
Five in-house monitors were used for 3 days, and the firmness and stiffness during the period of use were evaluated according to the following criteria.
×: Two or fewer people on the monitor responded that there was elasticity or stiffness △: Three people on the monitor answered that there was stiffness or stiffness ○: Four or more people on the monitor answered that there was stiffness or stiffness
（保温性の評価）
５名の社内モニターに３日間使用させて、使用期間中の保温性の評価を以下の基準で行った。
×：モニターの２名以下が寒いと回答
△：モニターの３名が暖かいと回答
○：モニターの４名以上が暖かいと回答
(Evaluation of heat retention)
Five in-house monitors were used for 3 days, and the heat retention during use was evaluated according to the following criteria.
×: 2 or less people on the monitor responded that it was cold △: 3 people on the monitor answered that it was warm ○: 4 or more people on the monitor answered that it was warm
（実施例１）
断面形状が扁平で不定形であり、扁平比が３〜９のレーヨン繊維（ダイワボウレーヨン社製 ２．２ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）４０質量％、綿繊維（品名：ＡＮＤＹ オーストラリア産 Ｇ５グレード）６０質量％を混紡して、短繊維紡績方法にて、撚係数が３．８で英式綿番手３０番のリング紡績糸を得た。このリング紡績糸を用いて２４Ｇの丸編み機にてスムース生地を編成した。次に、このスムース生地を染色工程において、精錬、リラックス後、液流染色機を用いて通常の染色加工を実施し、目付１８０ｇ／ｍ2の生地を得た。この生地における剛軟度は３１ｍｍ、ドレープ係数は０．１７であった。
Example 1
Cross section is flat and irregular, and blended with 40% by mass of rayon fiber (2.2dtex x 38mm, manufactured by Daiwabo Rayon Co., Ltd.) with a flatness ratio of 3-9, and 60% by mass of cotton fiber (product name: ANDY Australian G5 grade) Thus, a ring spun yarn having a twist coefficient of 3.8 and an English cotton count of 30 was obtained by a short fiber spinning method. Using this ring spun yarn, a smooth fabric was knitted with a 24G circular knitting machine. Next, in the dyeing process, the smooth dough was refined and relaxed, and then subjected to normal dyeing using a liquid dyeing machine to obtain a dough with a basis weight of 180 g / m 2 . The fabric had a bending resistance of 31 mm and a drape coefficient of 0.17.
（実施例２）
断面形状が扁平で不定形であり、扁平比が３〜９のレーヨン繊維（ダイワボウレーヨン社製 ２．２ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）４０質量％、高収縮アクリル繊維（品名：Ｋ８１７ 日本エクスラン社製 ０．９ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）３０質量％、レギュラーのアクリル繊維（品名：Ｃ８Ｇ８ 日本エクスラン社製 １．０ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）３０質量％を混紡して、短繊維紡績方法にて、撚係数が４．０で英式綿番手５０番のリング紡績糸を得た。その後、実施例１に記載のとおり、スムース生地を編成し、染色加工を施し、目付１６９ｇ／ｍ2の生地を得た。この生地における剛軟度は３０ｍｍ、ドレープ係数は０．１５、保温率は２５％であった。
(Example 2)
40% by mass of rayon fiber (2.2dtex × 38mm, manufactured by Daiwabo Rayon Co., Ltd.) having a flat and irregular cross-sectional shape and a flatness ratio of 3-9, 0.9dtex × manufactured by Nippon Exlan Co., Ltd. 38 mm) 30% by mass of regular acrylic fiber (product name: C8G8 manufactured by Nippon Exlan Co., Ltd. 1.0 dtex × 38 mm) 30% by mass, and a short fiber spinning method with a twist coefficient of 4.0 and an English cotton count No. 50 ring spun yarn was obtained. Thereafter, as described in Example 1, a smooth fabric was knitted and dyed to obtain a fabric having a basis weight of 169 g / m 2 . The fabric had a bending resistance of 30 mm, a drape coefficient of 0.15, and a heat retention rate of 25%.
（実施例３）
断面形状が扁平で不定形であり、扁平比が３〜９のレーヨン繊維（ダイワボウレーヨン社製 ２．２ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）４０質量％、ポリエステル繊維（品名：エコペットＴＦ、帝人ファイバー社製 １．４ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ 断面形状：Ｗ型）６０質量％を混紡して、短繊維紡績方法にて、撚係数４．０で英式綿番手３０番のリング紡績糸を得た。このリング紡績糸を用いて２８Ｇの丸編み機にて天竺生地を編成し、実施例１と同様に染色加工を施し、目付１７２ｇ／ｍ2の生地を得た。この生地における剛軟度は２３ｍｍ、ドレープ係数は０．１２、抗ピリング性は３級であった。
(Example 3)
Cross-sectional shape is flat and irregular, with a flatness ratio of 3-9, rayon fiber (2.2dtex × 38mm, manufactured by Daiwabo Rayon Co., Ltd.) 40% by mass, polyester fiber (product name: Ecopet TF, manufactured by Teijin Fibers, Ltd., 1.4dtex) A ring spun yarn having an English cotton count of 30 with a twisting factor of 4.0 was obtained by blending 60% by mass of × 38 mm cross-sectional shape: W type) by a short fiber spinning method. Tendon fabric was knitted with a 28G circular knitting machine using this ring spun yarn, and dyeing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric having a basis weight of 172 g / m 2 . The fabric had a bending resistance of 23 mm, a drape coefficient of 0.12, and an anti-pilling property of grade 3.
（実施例４）
実施例２で得られた生地を用いて紳士用の肌着を作成し、５名の社内モニターに３日間使用させた。
Example 4
Gentlemen's underwear was created using the fabric obtained in Example 2, and was used by 5 in-house monitors for 3 days.
（比較例１）
断面形状が菊花状のレギュラーのレーヨン繊維（品名：ＢＨ ダイワボウレーヨン社製 １．４ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）４０質量％、高収縮アクリル繊維（品名：Ｋ８１７ 日本エクスラン社製 ０．９ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）３０質量％、レギュラーのアクリル繊維（品名：Ｃ８Ｇ８ 日本エクスラン社製 １．０ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）３０質量％を混紡して、短繊維紡績方法にて撚係数３．２で英式綿番手５０番のリング紡績糸を得た。その後、実施例１に記載のとおり、スムース生地を編成し、染色加工を施し、目付１７０ｇ／ｍ2の生地を得た。この生地における剛軟度は２１ｍｍ、ドレープ係数は０．１１、保温率は１９％であった。
(Comparative Example 1)
Regular rayon fiber having a chrysanthemum cross-sectional shape (product name: 1.4 dtex × 38 mm manufactured by Daiwabo Rayon Co., Ltd., BH) 40% by mass, highly shrinkable acrylic fiber (product name: 0.9dtex × 38 mm manufactured by Nippon Exlan Co., Ltd.) 30% by mass, 30% by mass of regular acrylic fiber (product name: C8G8 manufactured by Nippon Exlan Co., Ltd., 1.0 dtex × 38 mm) 30% by mass is blended to obtain a ring spun yarn of English cotton number 50 with a twist coefficient of 3.2 by a short fiber spinning method. It was. Thereafter, as described in Example 1, a smooth fabric was knitted and dyed to obtain a fabric having a basis weight of 170 g / m 2 . The fabric had a bending resistance of 21 mm, a drape coefficient of 0.11, and a heat retention rate of 19%.
（比較例２）
断面形状が菊花状のレギュラーのレーヨン繊維（品名：ＢＨ ダイワボウレーヨン社製 １．７ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ）４０質量％、ポリエステル繊維（品名：エコペットＴＦ、帝人ファイバー社製 １．４ｄｔｅｘ×３８ｍｍ 断面形状：Ｗ型）６０質量％を混紡して、短繊維紡績方法にて、撚係数３．２で英式綿番手３０番のリング紡績糸を得た。その後、実施例３に記載のとおり、天竺生地を編成し、染色加工を施し、目付１７２ｇ／ｍ2の生地を得た。この生地における剛軟度は１８ｍｍ、ドレープ係数は０．０９、抗ピリング性２級であった。
(Comparative Example 2)
Chrysanthemum-shaped regular rayon fiber (product name: BH by Daiwabo Rayon Co., Ltd. 1.7 dtex × 38 mm) 40% by mass, polyester fiber (product name: Ecopet TF, Teijin Fibers Co., Ltd. 1.4 dtex × 38 mm) Type) 60% by mass was blended, and a ring spun yarn having an English cotton count of 30 with a twist coefficient of 3.2 was obtained by a short fiber spinning method. Thereafter, as described in Example 3, a tengu fabric was knitted and dyed to obtain a fabric having a basis weight of 172 g / m 2 . The fabric had a bending resistance of 18 mm, a drape coefficient of 0.09, and an anti-pilling grade of 2.
（比較例３）
比較例１で得られた生地を用いて紳士用の肌着を作成し、５名の社内モニターに３日間使用させた。
(Comparative Example 3)
Gentlemen's underwear was created using the fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1, and was used for 5 days by 5 in-house monitors.
実施例１〜３及び比較例１、２の結果を表１に示す。
（表１）
剛軟度（ｍｍ） ドレープ係数 保温率（％） 抗ピリング性（級）
実施例１ ３１ ０．１７
実施例２ ３０ ０．１５ ２５
実施例３ ２３ ０．１２ ３
比較例１ ２１ ０．１１ １９
比較例２ １８ ０．０９ ２
The results of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are shown in Table 1.
(Table 1)
Flexibility (mm) Drape coefficient Thermal insulation rate (%) Anti-pilling property (class)
Example 1 31 0.17
Example 2 30 0.15 25
Example 3 23 0.12 3
Comparative Example 1 21 0.11 19
Comparative Example 2 18 0.09 2
表１に示す結果からわかるとおり、各実施例の剛軟度、ドレープ係数からみて本発明の編物は適度なハリ、コシを持っていることがわかる。また、他繊維の混合形態において、アクリル繊維との組合せでは、保温性に優れ、ポリエステル繊維との組合せでは、抗ピリング性に優れることもわかる。 As can be seen from the results shown in Table 1, it can be seen that the knitted fabric of the present invention has appropriate elasticity and stiffness in view of the bending resistance and the drape coefficient of each example. In addition, in the mixed form of other fibers, it can be seen that the combination with acrylic fiber is excellent in heat retention, and the combination with polyester fiber is excellent in anti-pilling property.
実施例４、比較例３の結果を表２に示す。
（表２）
ハリ、コシの評価 保温性の評価
実施例４ ○ ○
比較例３ × ×
The results of Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 are shown in Table 2.
(Table 2)
Evaluation of elasticity and stiffness Evaluation of heat retention Example 4 ○ ○
Comparative Example 3 × ×
表２に示す結果からわかるとおり、本発明の編物を用いた肌着は、ハリ、コシを持ち、他繊維の混合形態において、アクリル繊維との組合せでは保温性に優れていることがわかる。 As can be seen from the results shown in Table 2, it can be seen that the underwear using the knitted fabric of the present invention has firmness and stiffness, and is excellent in heat retention when combined with acrylic fibers in a mixed form of other fibers.
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