JP4180761B2 - Woven knitted fabric with excellent anti-pilling properties - Google Patents
Woven knitted fabric with excellent anti-pilling properties Download PDFInfo
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- JP4180761B2 JP4180761B2 JP37521199A JP37521199A JP4180761B2 JP 4180761 B2 JP4180761 B2 JP 4180761B2 JP 37521199 A JP37521199 A JP 37521199A JP 37521199 A JP37521199 A JP 37521199A JP 4180761 B2 JP4180761 B2 JP 4180761B2
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Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、抗ピリング性に優れた織編物に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
紡績糸製品として各種の織編物が製造されており、この原料素材としては天然繊維の他、合成繊維も広く用いられている。
【0003】
合成繊維のうち例えばポリエステル繊維、特にポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維は、他の繊維に比べて高いヤング率や高い弾性回復率を示し、且つ強度,耐久性,耐薬品性,耐摩耗性等も非常に優れている。従ってこの様な良好な特性から、衣料用としてだけでなく、絨毯やカーテン等の各種の繊維製品にも汎用されている。
【0004】
またアクリル系繊維は、羊毛に似た柔軟な風合いや嵩高性を示し、また優れた染色性を有することから、衣料用の他、毛布等の寝具用、絨毯やカーテン等のインテリア用としても汎用されている。
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
紡績糸製品は、糸表面に突出している繊維の単糸切れやほつれ等によってピリングが生じ易いものであるが、綿等の様に繊維強度の比較的低い紡績糸製品の場合は、突出している繊維やピリングが容易に切れて脱落し、ピリングが成長し難いから、外観上あまり問題とならない。しかしながら、上記ポリエステル繊維製の紡績糸製品は引張強度や結節強度,耐摩耗性が高いという点が却って災いし、一旦発生したピリングが脱落し難く、いつまでも残って大きなピリングに成長するから、外観が著しく損なわれるという欠点を有している。従って高級衣料用としては使用し難いという問題がある。
【0006】
またアクリル系紡績糸製品も上記ポリエステル系紡績糸製品の場合と同様に、表面に発生したピリングが脱落し難く、大きなピリングに成長するから、外観を著しく損ない、商品価値を低下させるという欠点がある。
【0007】
そこで抗ピリング性を向上させる手段として、結節強力を低下させたポリエステル繊維やアクリル繊維を用いることが提案されているが、これら繊維製品にあっては強力が著しく低下し、高強力という折角のポリエステル繊維やアクリル繊維の利点が発揮されないという問題がある。
【0008】
また上記合成繊維紡績糸製品の表面を樹脂で被覆する手法も提案されているが、風合いが粗硬になるという問題がある。
【0009】
他に、旋回気流を用いた紡績機や結節紡績機を用いて紡績することにより、毛羽やピリングの発生を押さえようとする試みもあるが、十分に満足できる効果を得るには至っていないのが現状である。
【0010】
そこで本発明は上述の問題に鑑みてなされたものであり、紡績糸や紡績糸製品の強力を低下させることなく、抗ピリング性に優れた織編物を提供することを目的とする。
【0011】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明に係る抗ピリング性に優れた織編物は、紡績糸の外側部分に結節強度2.7cN/dtex(約3.0gf/d)以下の短繊維が偏在し、内側部分に結節強度3.1cN/dtex(約3.5gf/d)以上の短繊維が偏在した紡績糸を用いて製織或いは製編された織編物であって、前記外側部分を構成する繊維束の撚角度が、前記内側部分を構成する繊維束の撚角度より大きいことを要旨とする。上記紡績糸について換言すれば、紡績糸の外側部分を構成する短繊維が主として結節強度2.7cN/dtex以下の短繊維であり、前記紡績糸の内側部分を構成する短繊維が主として結節強度3.1cN/dtex以上の短繊維である。
【0012】
この様に外側部分の短繊維の結節強度が2.7cN/dtex以下(好ましくは2.4cN/dtex以下、より好ましくは2.2cN/dtex以下)と弱い繊維であるから、突出している繊維や発生したピリングは容易に切れて脱落し、殆どピリングの成長が生じない。よって外観があまり損なわれない。一方内側部分の短繊維の結節強度が3.1cN/dtex以上(好ましくは3.3cN/dtex以上、より好ましくは3.5cN/dtex以上)であるから、紡績糸に十分な強力が得られる。
【0013】
上記結節強度2.7cN/dtex以下の短繊維と、上記結節強度3.1cN/dtex以上の短繊維の分布としては、これら短繊維の混紡比率が内から外に向かって徐々に変わっていくものであっても良く(図1:本発明での紡績糸の一例を示す断面図)、或いは下記の様に層状に分かれる様にしても良い(図2:本発明での紡績糸の他の例を示す断面図)。即ち本発明においては、前記紡績糸が多層構造となっており、前記結節強度2.7cN/dtex以下の短繊維が主として前記紡績糸の外側層を構成し、前記結節強度3.1cN/dtex以上の短繊維が主として前記紡績糸の内側層を構成するものであることが好ましい。
【0014】
加えて本発明で用いる紡績糸は、前記外側部分(前記外側層を含む)を構成する繊維束の撚角度が、前記内側部分(前記内側層を含む)を構成する繊維束の撚角度より大きいものであることが好ましい。尚ここで言う撚角度とは、糸の長さ方向に平行な直線と糸を構成する単繊維との傾きを測定したものであり(撚角度:α)、糸の長さ方向に対して直角のときを最大値(90度)とし、糸の長さ方向と同一のときを最小値(0度)とする(図3:撚角度を説明するための図)。
【0015】
従来の紡績糸の様に撚角度が糸断面方向にほぼ一定であると、摩擦によって撚りが糸長さ方向に移動し易く、この移動の際に生じた撚りの緩んだ部分において毛羽が発生し易い。また上記の様に撚角度が糸断面方向にほぼ一定である為に、単繊維が糸断面方向に分離して毛羽が発生し易い。そしてこの様に発生した毛羽が絡み、ピリングとなるのである。
【0016】
しかし本発明では上述の様に外側層が大きな撚角度となっているから、各短繊維がしっかりと結束され、摩擦を受けても糸表面から該短繊維が解け難く、よって毛羽が発生し難い。そして毛羽があまり発生しないから、毛羽がもつれてピリングとなる恐れが少ない。更に上述の様に比較的結節強度が低いから、多少ピリングが発生しても、該ピリングは成長し難い。従って外観が損なわれる懸念が殆どない。
【0017】
一方上述の様に内側層は小さな撚角度となっているから、糸の長さ方向に対する強度が向上し、また紡績糸の風合いが良好となる。
【0018】
また内側層の撚角度と外側層の撚角度が同じ場合は、紡績糸製造段階において、内側層の繊維上に外側層の繊維を巻き付けることが困難であるから、内側層の繊維が糸表面に露出する懸念がある。そして該内側層の繊維は結節強度が高いから糸表面に露出するとピリングを発生する恐れを生じる。この点からも上述の様に内側層を外側層より小さな撚角度とするのが好ましい。
【0019】
具体的な撚角度としては、上記内側層は25度以下が好ましく、上記外側層は30度以上が好ましい。
【0020】
更に本発明においては、前記紡績糸を構成する短繊維の繊度が1〜4デニールであることが好ましい。
【0021】
繊度が1デニール未満では短繊維強力が低すぎて十分な糸強力が得られ難く、一方4デニール超では、所定の紡績糸太さを得るには構成繊維本数が少なくなり過ぎて糸強力が低くなる懸念があるからである。好ましくは短繊維の繊度が1.5デニール以上,3.0デニール以下である。
【0022】
また本発明に係る織編物は、前記紡績糸を用いて製織或いは製編されたものであることを要旨とする。
【0023】
前述の様に本発明で用いる紡績糸は毛羽が発生し難いから、この紡績糸を使った織編物は優れた抗ピリング性を示す。加えて紡績糸の強力が十分に高いものであるから、織編物の強力特性に優れている。
【0024】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下に本発明で用いる紡績糸の実施形態を製造方法と共に説明する。
【0025】
外側層と内側層とによって撚角度が異なる紡績糸は、例えば特開平9−105028号公報に示される様な旋回気流を利用した紡績装置(旋回気流式紡績装置)によって製造することができる。この様な旋回気流を用いた紡績とは、ドラフト装置のニップ点を通過した繊維に旋回気流を吹き付け、これにより繊維の端部をスライバから分離して気流によって旋回させ、実撚りを加えていくという手法である。
【0026】
原料繊維としては結節強度3.1cN/dtex以上の短繊維(繊維長をγとする)(以下、この短繊維を高強度短繊維と称することがある)と、結節強度2.7cN/dtex以下の短繊維(繊維長をδとする)(以下、この短繊維を低強度短繊維と称することがある)を用いる。上記各短繊維の繊維長γ,δは、上記旋回気流式紡績装置における繊維のニップ点から中空スピンドルの先端部までの距離Hに対して、γ>δ>Hの関係を有するものであることが望ましい。
【0027】
製造工程としては、まず上記高強度短繊維を芯部分とし、上記低強度短繊維を鞘部分とした二層構造のスライバーを形成する。
【0028】
次いで該スライバーを、上記旋回気流式紡績装置を用いて紡績する。このとき繊維長の短い上記低強度短繊維が繊維長の長い上記高強度短繊維の回りに巻き付き、且つ上記低強度短繊維(外側層)の撚角度αの方が、上記高強度短繊維(内側層)の撚角度βより大きいものとなって紡出される。即ち、外側層が撚角度の大きい低強度短繊維(結節強度2.7cN/dtex以下)で、内側層が撚角度の小さい高強度短繊維(結節強度3.1cN/dtex以上)で構成された二層構造の紡績糸が得られる。
【0029】
尚上記の様に各短繊維の繊維長をγ>δ>Hとせずに、例えば低強度短繊維の繊維長δをHよりも短くすると、紡績時において該低強度短繊維の脱落が多くなり、よって糸が切れてニューマ屑が多くなり、また糸質が悪くなる恐れがあるが、上記の様にγ>δ>Hの関係を満たした繊維長の短繊維を用いることにより、外側層を構成する低強度短繊維の交絡が強化され、よって糸切れが低減し、糸質が向上する。加えて外側層の繊維の交絡が強化されるから、出来上がった紡績糸の耐摩耗性も優れたものとなり、ピリングの発生防止にも寄与する。
【0030】
【実施例】
<実施例1>
内側部分に偏在する繊維として結節強度3.5cN/dtex(4.0gf/d),繊度1.4dの高収縮ポリエステルステープル(高強度短繊維)を用い、外側部分に偏在する繊維として結節強度2.3cN/dtex(2.6gf/d),繊度2.0dのポリエステルステープル(低強度短繊維)を用いる。
【0031】
これらのステープルをそれぞれ単独でスライバーにし、その後練条機を用いて上記高強度短繊維を芯、上記低強度短繊維を鞘にした二層構造のスライバーを形成する。このとき内側層に偏在する上記高強度短繊維の構成比率が30質量%、外側層に偏在する上記低強度短繊維の構成比率が70質量%となる様にする。
【0032】
次いで該二層構造のスライバーを旋回気流型紡績機(ムラタ・ボルテックス・スピナーMVS 村田機械株式会社製)を使用して、30Ne(英式綿番手)の紡績糸を製造する。このときの製造条件はノズル圧0.45MP、紡出速度250m/min.とする。
【0033】
これにより内側層に高強度短繊維が、外側層に低強度短繊維が分布した紡績糸が得られた。また該紡績糸は外側層の方が内側層より撚角度の大きいものであった。
【0034】
得られた紡績糸を用いて、通常の編み機により天竺編地を作製する。
【0035】
この編地のピリング性は4.5級であり、ピリングの発生が殆ど見られなかった。
【0036】
<実施例2>
内側部分に偏在する繊維として結節強度3.5cN/dtex(4.0gf/d),繊度1.4dの高収縮ポリエステルステープル(高強度短繊維)を用い、外側部分に偏在する繊維として平均結節強度2.3cN/dtex(2.6gf/d),平均繊度1.6d,平均繊維長28.7mmの綿(低強度短繊維)を用いる。
【0037】
上記実施例1と同様に、これらのステープルをそれぞれ単独でスライバーにし、その後練条機を用いて上記高強度短繊維(ポリエステルステープル)を芯、上記低強度短繊維(綿)を鞘にした二層構造のスライバーを形成する。このとき内側層に偏在する上記高強度短繊維の構成比率が30質量%、外側層に偏在する上記低強度短繊維の構成比率が70質量%となる様にする。
【0038】
次いで該二層構造のスライバーを旋回気流型紡績機(ムラタ・ボルテックス・スピナーMVS 村田機械株式会社製)を使用して、30Ne(英式綿番手)の紡績糸を製造する。このときの製造条件はノズル圧0.45MP、紡出速度250m/min.とする。
【0039】
これにより内側層に高強度短繊維(ポリエステルステープル)が、外側層に低強度短繊維(綿)が分布した紡績糸が得られた。また該紡績糸は外側層の方が内側層より撚角度の大きいものであった。
【0040】
得られた紡績糸を用いて、通常の編み機により天竺編地を作製する。
【0041】
この編地のピリング性は4.5級であり、ピリングの発生が殆ど見られなかった。
【0042】
<比較例1>
繊度1.4d,カット長38mm,結節強度4.0cN/dtex(4.5gf/d)のポリエステルステープルを100%用いて、旋回気流型紡績機(ムラタ・ボルテックス・スピナーMVS 村田機械株式会社製)により、30Ne(英式綿番手)の紡績糸を製造する。
【0043】
得られた紡績糸を用いて、通常の編み機により天竺編地を作製する。
【0044】
この編地について上記実施例1と同様にピリング性を測定したところ、ピリング性は3.5級であり、やや良好であるものの、十分ではなかった。
【0045】
<比較例2>
内側部分に偏在する繊維として結節強度2.3cN/dtex(2.6gf/d),繊度2.0dのポリエステルステープルを用い、これ以外は上記実施例2と同様とし、紡績糸を得る。得られた紡績糸を用いて、通常の編み機により天竺編地を作製する。
【0046】
この編地のピリング性は4.5級で、良好であったが、強力が低下し、後工程における操作性が悪かった。
【0047】
<比較例3>
結節強度3.5cN/dtex(4.0gf/d),繊度1.4dの高収縮ポリエステルステープル(高強度短繊維)と、結節強度2.3cN/dtex(2.6gf/d),繊度2.0dのポリエステルステープル(低強度短繊維)を用い、高強度短繊維30質量%、低強度短繊維70質量%となる様にしてスライバーを作製し、通常のリング紡績機を用いて紡績糸を得る。
【0048】
該紡績糸は高強度短繊維と低強度短繊維が均一に分布したものであった。
【0049】
得られた紡績糸を用いて、通常の編み機により天竺編地を作製する。
【0050】
この編地のピリング性は2.5級であり、ピリングの発生が多く見られた。
【0051】
<比較例4>
繊度2.0d,カット長38mm,結節強度2.3cN/dtex(2.6gf/d)のポリエステルステープルを100%用いて、上記実施例1と同様の旋回気流型紡績機により、30Ne(英式綿番手)の紡績糸を製造する。
【0052】
得られた紡績糸を用いて、通常の編み機により天竺編地を作製する。
【0053】
この編地について上記実施例1と同様にピリング性を測定したところ、ピリング性は4.5級で非常に良好であったが、糸の強力が弱く、編み立て時に糸切れが多発して作業性が悪かった。
【0054】
上記実施例1,2及び比較例1〜4のピリング性,強力,製編時の操業性について下記表1にまとめて記す。
【0055】
【表1】
【0056】
尚上記ピリング性の測定における試験方法はJIS L1076−1992A法に基づいて行い、つまりICI形試験機を用いて5時間の操作の後、編地表面のピリングの発生状態を判定基準に従って等級を判定する。
【0057】
上記強力はJIS L1095−1979,7−5に基づき、定速緊張形の試験機を用い、つかみ距離50cm,引張速度30cm/min.で測定する。
【0058】
尚表1中、ピリング性について4.5級以上を◎、4級を○、3.5級及び3級を△、2.5級以下を×で表している。また強力について220g以上を◎、220g未満〜200gを○、200g未満〜180gを△、180g未満を×で表している。製編時の作業性については、主として糸切れの発生を評価対象とし、通常の作業状態と比較して良好な場合を◎、普通の場合を○、劣る場合を△、操業が困難な場合を×とする。
【0059】
以上の様に本発明に係る織編物に関して具体的に説明したが、本発明は上記例に限定される訳ではなく、前記の趣旨に適合し得る範囲で適当に変更を加えて実施することも可能であり、それらはいずれも本発明の技術的範囲に包含される。
【0060】
例えば上記実施例1では紡績糸の内側部分及び外側部分いずれもポリエステル短繊維で構成されたものを示し、上記実施例2では紡績糸の内側部分をポリエステル短繊維、外側部分を綿で構成したが、これに限らず、様々な繊維を用いることができる。
【0061】
また上記実施例1,2では2つの種類の繊維で構成された紡績糸を示したが、これに限らず、3種以上の繊維で構成された紡績糸であっても良い。更に上記実施例1,2では2層構造の紡績糸を示したが、3層以上の構造をした紡績糸であっても良く、この場合は最外層に結節強度2.7cN/dtex以下の短繊維を配置すると良い。加えて層状とならずに徐々に繊維の分布が異なった構成の紡績糸であっても良い。
【0062】
【発明の効果】
以上の様に本発明に係る織編物は、強力が殆ど低下しないものでありながらも、ピリングがあまり発生しないという効果を奏する。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明での紡績糸の一例を示す断面図。
【図2】本発明での紡績糸の他の例を示す断面図。
【図3】撚角度を説明するための図。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric excellent in anti-pilling properties.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Various knitted and knitted fabrics are manufactured as spun yarn products, and synthetic fibers are also widely used as raw materials for these materials.
[0003]
Among synthetic fibers, for example, polyester fibers, especially polyethylene terephthalate fibers, have a high Young's modulus and a high elastic recovery rate compared to other fibers, and are extremely excellent in strength, durability, chemical resistance, wear resistance, etc. Yes. Therefore, it is widely used not only for clothing but also for various textile products such as carpets and curtains because of such good characteristics.
[0004]
In addition, acrylic fiber has a soft texture and bulkiness similar to wool, and has excellent dyeability, so it can be used for clothing, bedding such as blankets, and interiors such as carpets and curtains. Has been.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Spun yarn products are prone to pilling due to single yarn breakage or fraying of the fibers protruding on the yarn surface, but in the case of spun yarn products with relatively low fiber strength, such as cotton, they are protruding. Since the fiber and pilling are easily cut and fall off, and the pilling is difficult to grow, there is not much problem in appearance. However, the above spun yarn products made of polyester fiber suffer from the fact that they have high tensile strength, knot strength, and abrasion resistance. It has the disadvantage of being significantly impaired. Therefore, there is a problem that it is difficult to use for luxury clothing.
[0006]
Also, acrylic spun yarn products, like the above-mentioned polyester spun yarn products, have the disadvantages that the pilling generated on the surface is difficult to drop off and grows into large pilling, so that the appearance is remarkably impaired and the commercial value is lowered. .
[0007]
Therefore, it has been proposed to use polyester fiber or acrylic fiber with reduced knot strength as a means to improve anti-pilling properties. However, the strength of these fiber products is significantly reduced, and high-strength polyester There is a problem that the advantages of fibers and acrylic fibers are not exhibited.
[0008]
A method of coating the surface of the synthetic fiber spun yarn product with a resin has also been proposed, but there is a problem that the texture becomes coarse.
[0009]
In addition, there is an attempt to suppress the occurrence of fluff and pilling by spinning using a spinning machine or knot spinning machine using a swirling airflow, but it has not yet achieved a sufficiently satisfactory effect. Currently.
[0010]
Therefore, the present invention has been made in view of the above-described problems, and an object thereof is to provide a woven or knitted fabric excellent in anti-pilling property without reducing the strength of spun yarn or spun yarn product.
[0011]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In the woven or knitted fabric excellent in anti-pilling property according to the present invention, short fibers having a knot strength of 2.7 cN / dtex (about 3.0 gf / d) or less are unevenly distributed in the outer portion of the spun yarn, and the knot strength in the inner portion is 3. A woven or knitted fabric woven or knitted using spun yarn in which short fibers of 1 cN / dtex (about 3.5 gf / d) or more are unevenly distributed , wherein the twist angle of the fiber bundle constituting the outer portion is the inner side The gist is that it is larger than the twist angle of the fiber bundle constituting the portion . In other words, the short fibers constituting the outer portion of the spun yarn are mainly short fibers having a knot strength of 2.7 cN / dtex or less, and the short fibers constituting the inner portion of the spun yarn are mainly knot strength 3 .1cN / dtex or more of Ru short fibers der.
[0012]
In this way, the knot strength of the short fibers in the outer portion is as weak as 2.7 cN / dtex or less (preferably 2.4 cN / dtex or less, more preferably 2.2 cN / dtex or less). The generated pilling is easily cut off and dropped off, and pilling growth hardly occurs. Therefore, the appearance is not significantly impaired. On the other hand, since the knot strength of the short fiber in the inner part is 3.1 cN / dtex or more (preferably 3.3 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 3.5 cN / dtex or more), sufficient strength can be obtained for the spun yarn.
[0013]
Regarding the distribution of short fibers with a knot strength of 2.7 cN / dtex or less and short fibers with a knot strength of 3.1 cN / dtex or more, the blend ratio of these short fibers gradually changes from the inside to the outside. (FIG. 1: sectional view showing an example of spun yarn in the present invention) or may be divided into layers as shown below (FIG. 2: another example of spun yarn in the present invention) FIG. That is, in the present invention, the spun yarn has a multilayer structure, and short fibers having a knot strength of 2.7 cN / dtex or less mainly constitute an outer layer of the spun yarn, and the knot strength of 3.1 cN / dtex or more. It is preferable that the short fibers mainly constitute the inner layer of the spun yarn.
[0014]
In addition spun yarn used in the present invention are, twisted angle of the fiber bundle constituting the outer portion (including the outer layer) is the angle larger than the twist of the fiber bundle constituting the inner portion (including the inner layer) It is preferable. The twist angle referred to here is a measurement of the inclination between a straight line parallel to the length direction of the yarn and the single fiber constituting the yarn (twist angle: α), and is perpendicular to the length direction of the yarn. Is the maximum value (90 degrees), and the same value as the yarn length direction is the minimum value (0 degrees) (FIG. 3: diagram for explaining the twist angle).
[0015]
If the twist angle is almost constant in the yarn cross-section direction as in the case of the conventional spun yarn, the twist is likely to move in the yarn length direction due to friction, and fluff is generated in the loose portion of the twist generated during this movement. easy. Further, since the twist angle is substantially constant in the yarn cross-sectional direction as described above, the single fibers are easily separated in the yarn cross-sectional direction and fluff is likely to occur. The fluff generated in this way becomes tangled and becomes pilling.
[0016]
However, in the present invention, since the outer layer has a large twist angle as described above, the respective short fibers are firmly bound, and even when subjected to friction, the short fibers are difficult to be unwound from the yarn surface, and thus fluff is less likely to occur. . And since fuzz does not occur very much, there is little risk of fuzz becoming pilling. Furthermore, since the nodule strength is relatively low as described above, even if pilling occurs to some extent, the pilling is difficult to grow. Therefore, there is almost no concern that the appearance is impaired.
[0017]
On the other hand, since the inner layer has a small twist angle as described above, the strength in the length direction of the yarn is improved, and the texture of the spun yarn is improved.
[0018]
When the twist angle of the inner layer and the twist angle of the outer layer are the same, it is difficult to wind the outer layer fibers on the inner layer fibers in the spun yarn production stage. There are concerns about exposure. And since the fiber of this inner layer has high knot strength, it may cause pilling when exposed to the yarn surface. Also from this point, it is preferable that the inner layer has a smaller twist angle than the outer layer as described above.
[0019]
As a specific twist angle, the inner layer is preferably 25 degrees or less, and the outer layer is preferably 30 degrees or more.
[0020]
Furthermore, in the present invention, the fineness of the short fibers constituting the spun yarn is preferably 1 to 4 denier.
[0021]
If the fineness is less than 1 denier, it is difficult to obtain sufficient yarn strength because the short fiber strength is too low. On the other hand, if it exceeds 4 denier, the number of constituent fibers is too small to obtain a predetermined spun yarn thickness and the yarn strength is low. This is because there are concerns. Preferably, the fineness of the short fiber is 1.5 denier or more and 3.0 denier or less.
[0022]
The gist of the knitted or knitted fabric according to the present invention is that it is woven or knitted using the spun yarn.
[0023]
As described above, since the spun yarn used in the present invention hardly generates fluff, a woven or knitted fabric using the spun yarn exhibits excellent anti-pilling properties. In addition, since the strength of the spun yarn is sufficiently high, the strength characteristics of the woven or knitted fabric are excellent.
[0024]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the spun yarn used in the present invention will be described together with a production method.
[0025]
A spun yarn having a different twist angle between the outer layer and the inner layer can be manufactured by a spinning device (swirl air spinning device) using a swirling air as disclosed in, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-105028. Spinning using such a swirling airflow means that the swirling airflow is blown to the fiber that has passed through the nip point of the draft device, whereby the end of the fiber is separated from the sliver and swirled by the airflow, and the actual twist is added. It is a technique.
[0026]
The raw fiber is a short fiber with a knot strength of 3.1 cN / dtex or higher (fiber length is assumed to be γ) (hereinafter, this short fiber may be referred to as a high strength short fiber), and a knot strength of 2.7 cN / dtex or lower. (Hereinafter, the short fiber is sometimes referred to as a low-strength short fiber). The fiber lengths γ and δ of the respective short fibers have a relationship of γ>δ> H with respect to the distance H from the fiber nip point to the tip of the hollow spindle in the swirling airflow spinning device. Is desirable.
[0027]
As a manufacturing process, first, a sliver having a two-layer structure is formed with the high-strength short fibers as a core portion and the low-strength short fibers as a sheath portion.
[0028]
Next, the sliver is spun using the swirling airflow spinning device. At this time, the low-strength short fiber having a short fiber length is wound around the high-strength short fiber having a long fiber length, and the twist angle α of the low-strength short fiber (outer layer) is greater than the high-strength short fiber ( The inner layer) is spun at a larger twist angle β. That is, the outer layer is composed of low-strength short fibers having a large twist angle (nodal strength 2.7 cN / dtex or less), and the inner layer is composed of high-strength short fibers having a small twist angle (nodal strength 3.1 cN / dtex or more). A double-layered spun yarn is obtained.
[0029]
As described above, if the fiber length δ of each short fiber is not made γ>δ> H, for example, if the fiber length δ of the low-strength short fiber is shorter than H, the low-strength short fiber drops off during spinning. Therefore, there is a possibility that the yarn breaks and the amount of pneumatic waste increases, and the yarn quality may be deteriorated. However, by using short fibers having a fiber length satisfying the relationship of γ>δ> H as described above, the outer layer is formed. The entanglement of the low-strength short fibers that are formed is strengthened, so that yarn breakage is reduced and the yarn quality is improved. In addition, since the entanglement of the fibers in the outer layer is strengthened, the finished spun yarn has excellent wear resistance, and contributes to prevention of pilling.
[0030]
【Example】
<Example 1>
A high-shrinkage polyester staple (high-strength short fiber) with a knot strength of 3.5 cN / dtex (4.0 gf / d) and a fineness of 1.4 d is used as the fiber that is unevenly distributed in the inner part, and the knot strength is 2 as a fiber that is unevenly distributed in the outer part. .3 cN / dtex (2.6 gf / d), 2.0 d fine polyester staple (low strength short fiber) is used.
[0031]
Each of these staples is made into a sliver alone, and then a sliver having a two-layer structure is formed by using a knitting machine with the high-strength short fibers as a core and the low-strength short fibers as a sheath. At this time, the constituent ratio of the high-strength short fibers unevenly distributed in the inner layer is 30% by mass, and the constituent ratio of the low-strength short fibers unevenly distributed in the outer layer is 70% by mass.
[0032]
Next, a spun yarn of 30 Ne (English cotton count) is manufactured using the sliver having the two-layer structure using a swirling airflow spinning machine (Murata Vortex Spinner MVS Murata Machine Co., Ltd.). The manufacturing conditions at this time are a nozzle pressure of 0.45 MP and a spinning speed of 250 m / min.
[0033]
As a result, a spun yarn in which high-strength short fibers were distributed in the inner layer and low-strength short fibers in the outer layer was obtained. Further, the spun yarn had a larger twist angle in the outer layer than in the inner layer.
[0034]
Using the obtained spun yarn, a tenshi knitted fabric is produced by a normal knitting machine.
[0035]
The knitting property of this knitted fabric was 4.5 grade, and almost no pilling was observed.
[0036]
<Example 2>
Highly shrinkable polyester staples (high-strength short fibers) with a knot strength of 3.5 cN / dtex (4.0 gf / d) and a fineness of 1.4 d are used as the fibers that are unevenly distributed in the inner part, and the average knot strength as fibers that are unevenly distributed in the outer part 2.3 cN / dtex (2.6 gf / d), average fineness 1.6 d, average fiber length 28.7 mm cotton (low strength short fiber) is used.
[0037]
In the same manner as in Example 1, these staples were each made into a sliver, and then the above-mentioned high-strength short fibers (polyester staples) were used as the core and the low-strength short fibers (cotton) were used as the sheath by using a knitting machine. A sliver having a layer structure is formed. At this time, the constituent ratio of the high-strength short fibers unevenly distributed in the inner layer is 30% by mass, and the constituent ratio of the low-strength short fibers unevenly distributed in the outer layer is 70% by mass.
[0038]
Next, a spun yarn of 30 Ne (English cotton count) is manufactured using the sliver having the two-layer structure using a swirling airflow spinning machine (Murata Vortex Spinner MVS Murata Machine Co., Ltd.). The manufacturing conditions at this time are a nozzle pressure of 0.45 MP and a spinning speed of 250 m / min.
[0039]
As a result, a spun yarn in which high-strength short fibers (polyester staples) were distributed in the inner layer and low-strength short fibers (cotton) in the outer layer was obtained. Further, the spun yarn had a larger twist angle in the outer layer than in the inner layer.
[0040]
Using the obtained spun yarn, a tenshi knitted fabric is produced by a normal knitting machine.
[0041]
The knitting property of this knitted fabric was 4.5 grade, and almost no pilling was observed.
[0042]
<Comparative Example 1>
A 100% polyester staple with a fineness of 1.4d, a cut length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 4.0cN / dtex (4.5gf / d), a swirling airflow spinning machine (Murata Vortex Spinner MVS Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.) To produce 30Ne (English cotton count) spun yarn.
[0043]
Using the obtained spun yarn, a tenshi knitted fabric is produced by a normal knitting machine.
[0044]
When the pilling property of this knitted fabric was measured in the same manner as in Example 1, the pilling property was 3.5 grade, which was slightly good, but was not sufficient.
[0045]
<Comparative example 2>
A polyester yarn having a knot strength of 2.3 cN / dtex (2.6 gf / d) and a fineness of 2.0 d is used as a fiber that is unevenly distributed in the inner part, and a spun yarn is obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 above. Using the obtained spun yarn, a tenshi knitted fabric is produced by a normal knitting machine.
[0046]
The knitting fabric had good pilling performance of 4.5 grade, but the strength decreased, and the operability in the subsequent process was poor.
[0047]
<Comparative Example 3>
1. High-shrinkage polyester staple (high-strength short fibers) with a knot strength of 3.5 cN / dtex (4.0 gf / d) and a fineness of 1.4 d; a knot strength of 2.3 cN / dtex (2.6 gf / d); Using 0d polyester staples (low-strength short fibers), a sliver is produced so that the high-strength short fibers are 30% by mass and the low-strength short fibers are 70% by mass, and a spun yarn is obtained using a normal ring spinning machine. .
[0048]
The spun yarn was a uniform distribution of high-strength short fibers and low-strength short fibers.
[0049]
Using the obtained spun yarn, a tenshi knitted fabric is produced by a normal knitting machine.
[0050]
The knitting property of this knitted fabric was 2.5 grade, and a lot of pilling was observed.
[0051]
<Comparative example 4>
30Ne (English) using a 100% polyester staple having a fineness of 2.0d, a cut length of 38 mm, and a knot strength of 2.3 cN / dtex (2.6 gf / d), using the same swirling airflow spinning machine as in Example 1 above. Manufactured cotton yarn.
[0052]
Using the obtained spun yarn, a tenshi knitted fabric is produced by a normal knitting machine.
[0053]
For this knitted fabric, the pilling property was measured in the same manner as in Example 1 above. The pilling property was very good at 4.5 grade, but the strength of the yarn was weak, and there were many yarn breaks during knitting. The nature was bad.
[0054]
Table 1 below summarizes the pilling property, strength, and operability during knitting of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4.
[0055]
[Table 1]
[0056]
The test method for measuring the pilling property is based on the JIS L1076-1992A method. That is, after 5 hours of operation using an ICI type tester, the grade of the pilling on the knitted fabric surface is determined according to the criteria. To do.
[0057]
The strength is measured according to JIS L1095-1979, 7-5, using a constant-speed tension type tester at a gripping distance of 50 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm / min.
[0058]
In Table 1, the pilling property is 4.5 grade or higher, ◎, grade 4 is indicated by ○, grades 3.5 and 3 are indicated by Δ, and grade 2.5 or lower is indicated by ×. In addition, the strength is represented by ◎, 220 g or more, less than 220 g to 200 g, ◯, less than 200 g to 180 g, Δ, and less than 180 g by ×. Regarding the workability during knitting, the occurrence of thread breakage is mainly evaluated, ◎ when it is good compared to the normal work state, ○ when normal, △ when inferior, when operation is difficult X.
[0059]
It has been specifically described, the invention is not to be limited to the above example, it is carried out after appropriate modifications or variations within the scope adaptable to the gist of the respect engagement Ru woven or knitted fabric of the present invention as described above Are all possible and are within the scope of the present invention.
[0060]
For example, in Example 1 above, the inner part and the outer part of the spun yarn are both made of polyester short fibers, while in Example 2 the inner part of the spun yarn is made of polyester short fibers and the outer part is made of cotton. Not limited to this, various fibers can be used.
[0061]
In Examples 1 and 2 described above, the spun yarn composed of two types of fibers is shown. However, the spun yarn is not limited to this, and may be a spun yarn composed of three or more types of fibers. Further, in Examples 1 and 2 above, spun yarn having a two-layer structure is shown, but a spun yarn having a structure of three or more layers may be used. In this case, the outermost layer has a short knot strength of 2.7 cN / dtex or less. It is good to arrange the fiber. In addition, a spun yarn having a structure in which the distribution of fibers gradually differs without being layered may be used.
[0062]
【The invention's effect】
Engaging Ru woven or knitted fabric of the present invention as described above, even though are those powerful is not reduced almost, an effect that pilling is not a rare occurrence.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a spun yarn according to the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing another example of the spun yarn according to the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a diagram for explaining a twist angle.
Claims (3)
前記外側部分を構成する繊維束の撚角度が、前記内側部分を構成する繊維束の撚角度より大きいことを特徴とする抗ピリング性に優れた織編物。Weaved or knitted using spun yarn in which short fibers with a knot strength of 2.7 cN / dtex or less are unevenly distributed in the outer part of the spun yarn and short fibers with a knot strength of 3.1 cN / dtex or more are unevenly distributed in the inner part Knitting,
A woven or knitted fabric excellent in anti-pilling property , wherein a twist angle of a fiber bundle constituting the outer portion is larger than a twist angle of a fiber bundle constituting the inner portion .
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JP37521199A JP4180761B2 (en) | 1999-12-28 | 1999-12-28 | Woven knitted fabric with excellent anti-pilling properties |
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JP37521199A JP4180761B2 (en) | 1999-12-28 | 1999-12-28 | Woven knitted fabric with excellent anti-pilling properties |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JP2010156070A (en) * | 2008-12-26 | 2010-07-15 | Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd | Grandrelle-tone polyester woven or knitted fabric |
Families Citing this family (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JP4581324B2 (en) * | 2002-12-05 | 2010-11-17 | 東レ株式会社 | Anti-pilling knitted fabric |
JP5027848B2 (en) * | 2009-05-27 | 2012-09-19 | 東洋紡スペシャルティズトレーディング株式会社 | Knitted fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
JP6254802B2 (en) * | 2013-09-19 | 2017-12-27 | ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 | Handkerchief fabric and handkerchief |
JP6177668B2 (en) * | 2013-11-19 | 2017-08-09 | ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 | Double layer yarn |
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1999
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Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2010156070A (en) * | 2008-12-26 | 2010-07-15 | Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd | Grandrelle-tone polyester woven or knitted fabric |
JP4669546B2 (en) * | 2008-12-26 | 2011-04-13 | 東洋紡スペシャルティズトレーディング株式会社 | Grain-tone polyester woven / knitted fabric |
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