JP3606431B2 - Composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same - Google Patents

Composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric using the same Download PDF

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JP3606431B2
JP3606431B2 JP08516599A JP8516599A JP3606431B2 JP 3606431 B2 JP3606431 B2 JP 3606431B2 JP 08516599 A JP08516599 A JP 08516599A JP 8516599 A JP8516599 A JP 8516599A JP 3606431 B2 JP3606431 B2 JP 3606431B2
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Prior art keywords
yarn
filament
fiber bundle
fiber
filaments
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JP2000273733A (en
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光雄 谷田
謙一 日高
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明はフィラメント糸が芯に短繊維が鞘に配置された芯鞘構造の繊維束(A)と、フィラメントのみからなる繊維束(B)とが互いに巻き付く様に実撚がかけられてなる複合糸に関し、さらに詳しくは、特にドライ感、弾撥感、ふくらみ感、軽量感等の布帛特性に優れた複合糸及びそれを用いた織編物に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来、短繊維とフィラメントの複合糸に関しては種々の開発が行われ、得られる複合糸の形態も多様のものがある。例えば、フィラメントが集束して短繊維群の芯部に位置するコアヤーンや、マルチフィラメント糸が開繊されて短繊維群と混繊されてなる複合糸、またフィラメント糸と短繊維群が交撚されてなる複合糸などがあげられる。
【0003】
しかしながら、かかる複合糸は夫々優れた点を有するものの、下記のように不十分な面が存在する。すなわちフィラメントが集束して短繊維群の芯部に位置するコアヤーンは、強力についてはほどほどの値を有するものの、フィラメントと短繊維の相容、結合が悪く、抱合性、耐摩耗性においてかなり劣るという問題点を有している。
【0004】
またマルチフィラメント糸が開繊されて短繊維群と混繊されてなる複合糸は、抱合性が良いものの、該マルチフィラメント糸の開繊斑による毛羽斑が品位の低下を引き起こすという問題があった。
【0005】
さらにフィラメント糸と短繊維群とが精紡交撚されてなる複合糸も、フィラメントの混率を高くすると、耐摩耗性の低下や短繊維束の片切れによる操業性の低下という問題点を有している。
【0006】
そこで前記のような、従来の複合糸の欠点の解消を目的とした複合糸も提案されてはいる。例えば短繊維とフィラメントとが混繊してなる繊維束と、フィラメントからなる繊維束とが互いに巻き付くように実撚がかけられてなる複合糸である(特開平6−257027号公報参照)。
【0007】
これは短繊維とフィラメントとが混繊されていることにより、フィラメントと短繊維との相容性を高め抱合性の付与に効果がある。更にフィラメントのみからなる繊維束と、短繊維とフィラメントとが混繊してなる繊維束とが互いに捲き付くように実撚がかけられていることにより、耐摩耗性を一層向上せしめる。更に毛羽減少、糸条の均斉度の向上に優れたものとなる。また、風合い面においてもフィラメント束が糸の外層ほど高密度な糸構造を形成しているため、フィラメントの特徴をより活かした用途、すなわち湿潤快適素材、清涼感素材などの布帛特性を得るのに好適な複合糸であるといえる。
【0008】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
しかしながら、このような複合糸では、上記のように耐摩耗性、均斉度に優れるものの、弾撥感、ふくらみ感、ドライ感、軽量感等の布帛特性を得るには不十分であった。
【0009】
そこで、本発明の目的は、優れた耐摩耗性、均斉度を維持しつつ、更にドライで弾撥感、ふくらみ感、軽さなどの布帛特性を得るのに好適な複合糸及びそれを用いた織編物を提供することにある。
【0010】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者らは、上記目的を達成すべく、用いるフィラメントの種類や組合せ等について鋭意研究したところ、特定の中空率を有する中空繊維を使用することにより、上記目的が達成できることを見出し、更に種々の検討を加えて本発明を完成するに至った。
【0011】
即ち、本発明の複合糸は、フィラメント糸が芯に短繊維が鞘に配置された芯鞘構造の繊維束(A)と、フィラメント糸のみからなる繊維束(B)とが互いに巻き付く様に実撚がかけられてなる複合糸であって、前記繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントの双方もしくは繊維束(B)に用いるフィラメントが中空率5〜40%であり、前記繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントのいずれか一方が単糸繊度で5デニール以上であり、前記繊維束(B)に用いるフィラメントが中空率5〜40%であり、繊維の長さ方向に細部と太部がランダムに存在することを特徴とする。
【0014】
一方、本発明の織編物は、上記いずれかに記載の複合糸を用いたことを特徴とする。
【0015】
〔作用効果〕
本発明の複合糸によると、実施例の結果が示すように、優れた耐摩耗性、均斉度を維持しつつ、更にドライで弾撥感、ふくらみ感、軽さなどの布帛特性を得ることができる。つまり、繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントの双方もしくは一方を中空率5〜40%とすることで、耐摩耗性、均斉度を維持しながら、特にふくらみ感と軽量感を改善することができる。中空率が5%未満では、狙いとするふくらみ感、軽量感を得ることが難しく、中空率が40%を超えると紡績工程での撚糸加工時、染色工程での減量、風合い加工時にフィラメントの中空部が割れたり、つぶれたりし効果が半減するため好ましくない。かかる観点より、好ましい中空率は10〜38%である。
【0016】
また、前記繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントのいずれか一方が、単糸繊度で5デニール以上であるため、かかるフィラメントが複合糸に適度なコシを与え、特に弾撥感、ふくらみ感を改善することができる。単糸繊度が5デニール未満であると、目的とする弾撥感、ふくらみ感が得られにくい傾向がある。
【0017】
更に、前記繊維束(B)に用いるフィラメントが中空率5〜40%であり、繊維の長さ方向に細部と太部がランダムに存在するものであるため、ふくらみ感と軽量感を改善しつつ、更にドライな風合い効果を付与することができる。かかるフィラメントを繊維束(B)側に用いるのは、よりフィラメントのタッチを表現させるためである。
【0018】
一方、本発明の織編物によると、上記の如き本発明の複合糸を用いているため、優れた耐摩耗性、均斉度を維持しつつ、更にドライで弾撥感、ふくらみ感、軽さなどの布帛特性を有する織編物とすることができる。
【0019】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下に本発明の実施の形態について詳細に説明する。
【0020】
まず、本発明の複合糸の構造について、図面を参照しながら説明する。図1は、本発明の複合糸の糸断面の一例を示すものである。図1に示すように、フィラメント(ロ)が芯に、短繊維(イ)が鞘に配置された芯鞘構造の繊維束(A)と、フィラメントのみからなる繊維束(B)とが互いに巻きつくように実撚がかけられている。なお、この例では、繊維束(B)を構成するフィラメントに中空繊維が用いられているが、本発明はこれに限定されるものではない。
【0021】
このように芯鞘構造の繊維束(A)とフィラメントのみからなる繊維束(B)とを実撚して糸形成する理由は次の通りである。複合する長短繊維を糸形成ゾーンで同時複合化する従来紡績法では、長短繊維の相互交渉、マイグレーションにより繊維配向が乱れ、安定した複合構造が得られない。そこで本発明では、安定した複合構造とするため、高配向繊維束を複数に分けて形成し、それらを相互に捲回させることにより、各繊維束がラセン構造を形成して、繊維配向乱れの少ない糸となり、毛羽の少ない糸均斉度に優れ、耐摩耗性が著しく向上した複合糸が得られる。従って、本発明の複合糸は、繊維束(A)と繊維束(B)とが互いに巻きつくように実撚されていればよく、一束づつ撚られたものでも、一束と複数束、又は複数束と複数束が撚られたものでもよい。
【0022】
本発明は、このような複合糸において、繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントの双方もしくは一方が中空率5〜40%であることを特徴とする。フィラメントの中空部の断面形状としては、円形断面、三角形断面など特に限定するものではないが、紡績工程、加工工程での物理的・化学的処理に耐えうるという観点から、田の字型断面、同様に中空部が十字に4分割された円形断面が望ましい。このような断面形状は、各種公知の紡糸法により形成することができる。
【0023】
また、中空率5〜40%のフィラメントを繊維束(B)側に用いる際、繊維の長さ方向に細部と太部をランダムに存在しているフィラメントを用いることが、ドライな風合い効果が得る上で好ましい。尚、細部と太部のピッチ及び長さ、太さは特に限定するものではない。このようなフィラメント形状は、従来公知の方法、例えば延伸ゾーン内に熱板を設けフィラメントの接触状態を繊維軸方向に変化させるなどの紡糸法により形成することができる。
【0024】
前記繊維束(A)と繊維束(B)との構成比A/Bは、重量比で0.5〜26の範囲内であることが好ましい。0.5未満になると短繊維とフィラメントの結合が悪くフィラメントと短繊維とが分離するいわゆるシース抜けが起こり易くなる。他方、26を超えるとフィラメントのみからなる繊維束(B)が細くなるため、操作性が低下する傾向がある。かかる観点より、更に好ましくはA/Bは0.7〜20である。
【0025】
また、繊維束(A)におけるフィラメント糸の割合は、5〜50重量%が好ましい。5重量%未満では目的とする弾撥感、ふくらみ感のある風合いを得ることができない。また、50重量%を超えると短繊維との結合が悪く、シース抜けが起こりやすく、また毛羽の増加と耐摩耗性の低下を生ずるので好ましくない。
【0026】
繊維束(A)に使用される短繊維としては、綿繊維、麻繊維などの天然繊維、ポリノジック繊維などの再生繊維、半合成繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリアクリロニトリル系繊維などの合成繊維等、通常紡績工程に供されるものであれば特に限定されるものではない。もちろん混紡素材であっても差し支えない。
【0027】
また、繊維束(A)と繊維束(B)に使用されるフィラメント糸の素材としては、ポリエステル、ポリアミド、ポリアクリルなどの合成繊維の他、プロミクスなどの半合成繊維など一般に衣料用に供される全てのフィラメント素材が対象となりうる。なお、繊維束(A)におけるフィラメントと繊維束(B)におけるフィラメントの素材は、同一でも異なっていてもよい。
【0028】
繊維束(A)と繊維束(B)に使用されるフィラメント糸の単糸繊度としては、通常0.1〜20デニールのものが使用されるが、繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントのいずれか一方が、単糸繊度で5デニール以上であることが、前述の理由より好ましい。その場合、他方のフィラメントの単糸繊度は0.2〜3.5デニールが好ましい。
【0029】
なお、繊維束(A)と繊維束(B)とにかけられる実撚は、撚係数(インタ式)で2.0〜8.0が好ましく、2.5〜7.5の範囲にするのがより好ましい。撚係数KはT=K・Ne1/2 で示される。ここで、Tは撚数(t/インチ)、Neは英式綿番手である。
【0030】
本発明の複合糸は、1mm以上の毛羽に関して、200コ/10m〜900コ/10mの範囲の毛羽を有していることが好ましい。200コ/10m未満であるとふくらみ感に欠け、更にフィラメントライクになる傾向があり、他方900コ/10mを超えると、糸条品位が悪く、織物の品位低下となる傾向がある。なお、毛羽は敷島紡績株式会社製のF−インデックステスターによって測定した。
【0031】
次に上記の如き複合糸の製造方法について、図面を参照しながら説明する。
【0032】
図2は、このような複合糸の製造方法を説明するための概略斜視図である。まず、短繊維集合体、例えば粗糸ボビン(篠巻)P1から解舒された粗糸1を、精紡機のガイドローラを介してバックローラー4から供給する。ついでバックローラー4、セカンドローラ8、フロントローラー9間でドラフトする。その後、フロントローラー9後の加撚ゾーンCにおいて、パーンP2から解舒されたフィラメント糸2と、ドラフトされた短繊維集合体を互いに加撚する。その際パーンP3から解舒されたフィラメント糸3をドラフトされている短繊維集合体に重ね合わせる。その時、フィラメント糸3にかけられる張力は0.1〜0.4g/dが好ましい。なお、フィラメント糸2とフィラメント糸3は、テンションガイド10,11とガイドローラ6,7を経て、フロントローラー9に供給され、加撚された複合糸は、スネルワイヤー12を経由してボビン等に巻き取られる。
【0033】
また耐摩耗性を向上させ、1mm以上の毛羽で200〜900コ/10mの毛羽を有するためには、パーンP2から解舒されたフィラメント糸2と、ドラフトされた短繊維集合体にフィラメント糸3が重ね合わされてなる繊維束とのフリース間隔Dを、3mm〜10mmの範囲にすることが望ましい。3mm未満であると繊維の平行度が悪く、そのために毛羽の増加、及び互いの繊維束同志の緊密性が弱く十分な耐摩耗性を期待しにくい。逆に10mmを超えると毛羽数が減少し、耐摩耗性も向上するが、著しく可紡性が低下し、実生産性、品質面で不十分となる傾向がある。
【0034】
上記の製造方法により、短繊維とフィラメント糸3とで構成される繊維束(A)と、フィラメント糸2で構成される繊維束(B)とが互いに巻き付いてなる本発明の複合糸を得ることができる。
【0035】
本発明の織編物は、以上の如き複合糸を用いて製織等した織物類、又は編物類であればよく、製織等のタイプは如何なるものでもよい。また、本発明の複合糸以外の糸を部分的に使用したものでもよい。
【0036】
【実施例】
以下、本発明の構成と効果を具体的に示す実施例等について説明する。なお、実施例等における物性値等の評価方法は、以下のとおりである。
【0037】
イ.強力、伸度
JIS L−1095−1979(一般紡績試験法)の定速伸長型引張試験機(ツェルヴューガーウスタ社製のテンソラピッド)にて、つかみ間隔50cm、引張速度30cm/分で測定した。
【0038】
ロ.毛羽数
敷島紡績株式会社製のF−インデックステスターで1mm以上の毛羽(コ/10m)を測定した。
【0039】
ハ.糸均斉度(U%)
イヴネステスターUT−III 型により測定した。
【0040】
ニ.耐摩耗性
経糸抱合力試験機(蛭田理研製)により測定した。この経糸抱合力試験機は直径20cmのチタン製表面の円型ドラムを80回/分で回転させ、糸の一端を固定し、他端に70gの荷重をかけてこのドラムに接触させフィラメントと短繊維束が分離する、いわゆるシース抜けするまでの回転数で耐摩耗性の程度を表した。
【0041】
ホ.布帛の均斉度(品位)、弾撥感、ふくらみ感、軽量感、表面のドライ感
評価糸を織規格140本/インチ×95本/インチ、トリコチンで製織した後、通常加工した布帛での官能評価によるものであり、非常に良好◎、良好○、普通△、悪い×の4段階を7人で評価し最も多く評価された段階値で示した。
【0042】
実施例1
繊維束(B)を構成するフィラメント糸2として、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるマルチフィラメント糸(50デニール24フィラメント,中空率13%,繊維の長さ方向に細部と太部がランダムに存在するもの)を用い、繊維束(A)を構成するフィラメント糸3として、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるマルチフィラメント糸(30デニール5フィラメント)を用い、短繊維としては米綿を主体とする綿繊維を用いて、図2に示す方法により、複合紡績糸30’s(英式綿番手)を得た。このときの繊維束(A)と繊維束(B)との重量比A/Bは2.54であった。
【0043】
得られた複合糸は、芯鞘構造の繊維束(A)と、フィラメントのみからなる繊維束(B)とが互いに巻き付くように実撚がかけられてなる複合糸であり、該複合糸の1mm以上の毛羽指数は10m当たり380であった。
【0044】
該複合糸を用い製織と染色加工を行ったところ、ドライな表面感で弾撥性、膨らみ感に優れた高品位な布帛が得られた。また、糸均斉度、耐摩耗性にも優れた特性を示した。
【0045】
実施例2
実施例1において、フィラメント糸3として中実のマルチフィラメント糸を用いる代わりに、中空部が十字に4分割された円形断面を有する中空率25%のマルチフィラメント糸(30デニール5フィラメント)を用いること以外は、実施例1と全く同様にして複合糸及び布帛を得た。
【0046】
比較例1
実施例1において、フィラメント糸3としてマルチフィラメント糸(30デニール5フィラメント)を用いる代わりに、マルチフィラメント糸(30デニール18フィラメント)を用いること以外は、実施例1と全く同様にして複合糸及び布帛を得た。
【0047】
比較例2
実施例1において、フィラメント糸2として中空のマルチフィラメント糸を用いる代わりに、円形中実断面を有するマルチフィラメント糸(50デニール24フィラメント)を用いること以外は、実施例1と全く同様にして複合糸及び布帛を得た。
【0048】
従来例1
フィラメント群を芯に短繊維を鞘に配置した芯鞘構造のコアヤーン、すなわちポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(75デニール36フィラメント,円形中実断面)と綿繊維とによる複合糸30’s(英式綿番手)を紡績製織加工を行い、複合糸及び布帛を得た。
【0049】
従来例2
マルチフィラメントを開繊装置にて開繊させ、短繊維と混繊させた複合糸、すなわちポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(75デニール36フィラメント,円形中実断面)と綿繊維とによる複合糸30’s(英式綿番手)を紡績製織加工を行い、複合糸及び布帛を得た。
【0050】
以上の特性を比較した結果を表1に示す。
【0051】
【表1】

Figure 0003606431
【0052】
表1から次のことが確認された。本発明による複合糸は糸均斉度、耐摩耗性に優れた毛羽の少ない性能であった。また布帛特性としては高品位で弾撥感のあるものであり、更には従来にはない膨らみ感と軽量感を有しており、ドライな表面感であることが確認された。
【0053】
これに対し、単糸フィラメント5デニール以上のものを使用しない比較例1では、実施例1と同様に優れた糸特性を示すものの、目的とする弾撥感のある布帛を得るには至らなかった。また、中空のフィラメントを使用しない比較例2では、弾撥感を有しているものの膨らみ感・軽量感のある布帛を得るには不十分であった。
【0054】
一方、芯鞘構造のコアヤーンのみから構成される従来例1では、長短繊維の相互干渉(マイグレーション)による影響を受けて、毛羽・耐摩耗性において不十分であり、布帛特性においても不満足なものであった。また、マルチフィラメントを開繊して短繊維と混繊させた複合糸である従来例2では、布帛特性において満足する弾撥感・膨らみ感が得られなかった。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明の複合糸の横断面図
【図2】本発明の複合糸の製造装置の概略斜視図
【符号の説明】
1 粗糸(短繊維集合体)
2 フィラメント糸
3 フィラメント糸
A 繊維束(A)
B 繊維束(B)
C 加撚ゾーン
イ 短繊維
ロ フィラメント[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
In the present invention, a fiber bundle (A) having a core-sheath structure in which a filament yarn is arranged in the core and a short fiber is arranged in the sheath and a fiber bundle (B) made only of the filament are wound around each other. More particularly, the present invention relates to a composite yarn excellent in fabric characteristics such as dry feeling, elastic feeling, swelling feeling, lightweight feeling, and a woven / knitted fabric using the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, various developments have been made on composite yarns of short fibers and filaments, and there are various types of composite yarns obtained. For example, a core yarn in which filaments are converged and positioned at the core of a short fiber group, a composite yarn in which a multifilament yarn is opened and mixed with a short fiber group, or a filament yarn and a short fiber group are twisted Composite yarns.
[0003]
However, although such composite yarns have excellent points, there are insufficient aspects as described below. That is, the core yarn in which the filaments are concentrated and located at the core of the short fiber group has a moderate value for strength, but the compatibility between the filament and the short fiber is poor, and the conjugation and wear resistance are considerably inferior. Has a problem.
[0004]
In addition, the composite yarn obtained by opening the multifilament yarn and mixed with the short fiber group has a good conjugation property, but there is a problem in that fluff spots due to the spread filament of the multifilament yarn cause deterioration in quality. .
[0005]
Furthermore, composite yarns in which filament yarns and short fiber groups are finely spun and twisted also have the problem that if the mixing ratio of the filaments is increased, the wear resistance is lowered and the operability is lowered due to short pieces of short fiber bundles. ing.
[0006]
Therefore, composite yarns have also been proposed for the purpose of eliminating the drawbacks of conventional composite yarns as described above. For example, it is a composite yarn in which a real bundle is applied so that a fiber bundle made of a mixture of short fibers and filaments and a fiber bundle made of filaments are wound around each other (see JP-A-6-257027).
[0007]
This is because the short fibers and the filaments are mixed, so that the compatibility between the filaments and the short fibers is enhanced and conjugation is imparted. Furthermore, the actual twist is applied so that the fiber bundle composed only of the filaments and the fiber bundle formed by mixing the short fibers and the filaments stick to each other, thereby further improving the wear resistance. Furthermore, it is excellent in reducing fluff and improving the uniformity of the yarn. Also, since the filament bundle forms a denser yarn structure on the textured surface as the outer layer of the yarn, it can be used to take advantage of the characteristics of the filament, that is, to obtain fabric characteristics such as a wet comfortable material and a refreshing material. It can be said that this is a suitable composite yarn.
[0008]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, such composite yarns are excellent in abrasion resistance and uniformity as described above, but are insufficient to obtain fabric properties such as elastic feeling, bulge feeling, dry feeling, and lightweight feeling.
[0009]
Therefore, an object of the present invention is to use a composite yarn suitable for obtaining fabric characteristics such as dry and elastic feeling, swelling and lightness while maintaining excellent wear resistance and uniformity, and using the same. It is to provide a woven or knitted fabric.
[0010]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors diligently studied the types and combinations of filaments used in order to achieve the above object, and found that the above object can be achieved by using hollow fibers having a specific hollow ratio. Thus, the present invention has been completed.
[0011]
That is, in the composite yarn of the present invention, the fiber bundle (A) having the core-sheath structure in which the filament yarn is the core and the short fiber is arranged in the sheath, and the fiber bundle (B) made only of the filament yarn are wound around each other. A composite yarn formed by real twisting, wherein both the filaments used for the fiber bundles (A) and (B) or the filament used for the fiber bundle (B) have a hollowness of 5 to 40%, and the fiber bundle Either one of the filaments used in (A) and (B) has a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or more, the filament used in the fiber bundle (B) has a hollowness of 5 to 40%, and is in the fiber length direction. Details and thick parts are present at random.
[0014]
On the other hand, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized by using the composite yarn described above.
[0015]
[Function and effect]
According to the composite yarn of the present invention, as shown in the results of the examples, while maintaining excellent wear resistance and uniformity, it is possible to obtain fabric characteristics such as dry and elastic feeling, swelling and lightness. it can. That is, by making both or one of the filaments used for the fiber bundles (A) and (B) have a hollowness of 5 to 40%, particularly the feeling of swelling and lightness is improved while maintaining wear resistance and uniformity. be able to. If the hollowness is less than 5%, it is difficult to obtain the desired swell and lightness. If the hollowness exceeds 40%, the filament is hollow during twisting in the spinning process, weight loss in the dyeing process, and texture processing. This is not preferable because the part is broken or crushed and the effect is halved. From this viewpoint, the preferred hollowness is 10 to 38%.
[0016]
Also, one of the filaments used in the fiber bundle and (A) (B) is, for fineness 5 denier or more is at, such filaments gives an appropriate stiffness to the composite yarn, in particular Tamabachi feeling, bulge The feeling can be improved. If the single yarn fineness is less than 5 deniers, the desired elastic feeling and bulge feeling tend to be difficult to obtain.
[0017]
Furthermore, the filament used in the fiber bundle (B) is 5-40% hollow ratio, for detail and thick portion in the length direction of the fibers being present in a random, while improving sense of lightness bulge Further, a dry texture effect can be imparted. The reason for using the filament on the fiber bundle (B) side is to express the touch of the filament more.
[0018]
On the other hand, according to the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, since the composite yarn of the present invention as described above is used, while maintaining excellent wear resistance and uniformity, it is further dry and elastic, bulging, lightness, etc. It can be set as the woven / knitted fabric which has the following fabric characteristics.
[0019]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
[0020]
First, the structure of the composite yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 shows an example of a yarn cross section of the composite yarn of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, a fiber bundle (A) having a core-sheath structure in which a filament (b) is arranged in the core and a short fiber (b) is arranged in the sheath, and a fiber bundle (B) consisting only of the filaments are wound together. A real twist is applied so as to be attached. In this example, hollow fibers are used for the filaments constituting the fiber bundle (B), but the present invention is not limited to this.
[0021]
The reason why the fiber bundle (A) having the core-sheath structure and the fiber bundle (B) composed only of the filaments are thus twisted to form a yarn is as follows. In the conventional spinning method in which long and short fibers to be combined are simultaneously combined in the yarn forming zone, the fiber orientation is disturbed by mutual negotiation and migration of the long and short fibers, and a stable composite structure cannot be obtained. Therefore, in the present invention, in order to obtain a stable composite structure, a highly oriented fiber bundle is divided into a plurality of pieces, and by winding them together, each fiber bundle forms a helical structure, and the fiber orientation is disturbed. A composite yarn having less yarn, less fluff, excellent yarn uniformity, and significantly improved wear resistance can be obtained. Therefore, the composite yarn of the present invention is only required to be actually twisted so that the fiber bundle (A) and the fiber bundle (B) are wound around each other. Alternatively, a plurality of bundles and a plurality of bundles may be twisted.
[0022]
The present invention is characterized in that in such a composite yarn, both or one of the filaments used for the fiber bundles (A) and (B) has a hollowness of 5 to 40%. The cross-sectional shape of the hollow portion of the filament is not particularly limited, such as a circular cross-section, a triangular cross-section, but from the viewpoint of being able to withstand physical and chemical treatment in the spinning process and processing process, Similarly, a circular cross section in which the hollow portion is divided into four crosses is desirable. Such a cross-sectional shape can be formed by various known spinning methods.
[0023]
Moreover, when using a filament with a hollowness of 5 to 40% on the fiber bundle (B) side, it is possible to obtain a dry texture effect by using a filament in which details and thick portions are randomly present in the fiber length direction. Preferred above. Note that the pitch, length, and thickness of the details and thick portions are not particularly limited. Such a filament shape can be formed by a conventionally known method, for example, a spinning method in which a hot plate is provided in the drawing zone to change the filament contact state in the fiber axis direction.
[0024]
The composition ratio A / B between the fiber bundle (A) and the fiber bundle (B) is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 26 by weight ratio. When the ratio is less than 0.5, the short fibers and the filaments are poorly bonded, and so-called sheath detachment where the filaments and the short fibers are separated easily occurs. On the other hand, if it exceeds 26, the fiber bundle (B) consisting only of filaments becomes thin, and the operability tends to be lowered. From this viewpoint, A / B is more preferably 0.7-20.
[0025]
Moreover, the ratio of the filament yarn in the fiber bundle (A) is preferably 5 to 50% by weight. If it is less than 5% by weight, it is not possible to obtain a desired texture with a feeling of elasticity and swelling. On the other hand, if it exceeds 50% by weight, the bonding with the short fibers is poor, the sheath is likely to come off, and the fluff increases and the wear resistance decreases.
[0026]
Short fibers used in the fiber bundle (A) include natural fibers such as cotton fibers and hemp fibers, recycled fibers such as polynosic fibers, synthetic fibers such as semi-synthetic fibers, polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, and polyacrylonitrile fibers. It is not particularly limited as long as it is subjected to a normal spinning process such as fiber. Of course, it can be a blended material.
[0027]
Moreover, as a material of the filament yarn used for the fiber bundle (A) and the fiber bundle (B), in addition to synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, and polyacryl, semi-synthetic fibers such as promix are generally used for clothing. All filament materials can be targeted. The filaments in the fiber bundle (A) and the filaments in the fiber bundle (B) may be the same or different.
[0028]
The single yarn fineness of the filament yarn used for the fiber bundle (A) and the fiber bundle (B) is usually 0.1 to 20 denier, but is used for the fiber bundles (A) and (B). It is preferable from the above-mentioned reason that either one of the filaments has a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or more. In that case, the single filament fineness of the other filament is preferably 0.2 to 3.5 denier.
[0029]
In addition, as for the actual twist applied to a fiber bundle (A) and a fiber bundle (B), 2.0-8.0 are preferable by a twist coefficient (inter type | formula), and it is set to the range of 2.5-7.5. More preferred. The twist coefficient K is represented by T = K · Ne 1/2 . Here, T is the number of twists (t / inch), and Ne is an English cotton count.
[0030]
The composite yarn of the present invention preferably has fluff in the range of 200/10 m to 900/10 m for fluff of 1 mm or more. When the length is less than 200/10 m, there is a tendency to lack a swell and further tend to be filament-like. On the other hand, when the length exceeds 900/10 m, the yarn quality is poor and the quality of the fabric tends to be lowered. The fluff was measured with an F-index tester manufactured by Shikishima Boseki Co., Ltd.
[0031]
Next, a method for producing the composite yarn as described above will be described with reference to the drawings.
[0032]
FIG. 2 is a schematic perspective view for explaining a method for producing such a composite yarn. First, the short fiber aggregate, for example, the roving yarn 1 unwound from the roving bobbin (Shinomaki) P1 is supplied from the back roller 4 through the guide roller of the spinning machine. Next, drafting is performed between the back roller 4, the second roller 8, and the front roller 9. Thereafter, in the twisting zone C after the front roller 9, the filament yarn 2 unwound from the pun P2 and the drafted short fiber aggregate are twisted together. At that time, the filament yarn 3 unwound from the Pahn P3 is superposed on the drafted short fiber aggregate. At that time, the tension applied to the filament yarn 3 is preferably 0.1 to 0.4 g / d. The filament yarn 2 and the filament yarn 3 are supplied to the front roller 9 through the tension guides 10 and 11 and the guide rollers 6 and 7, and the twisted composite yarn is passed through the snell wire 12 to a bobbin or the like. It is wound up.
[0033]
Further, in order to improve the wear resistance and to have a fluff of 1 mm or more and a fluff of 200 to 900/10 m, the filament yarn 2 unraveled from Pahn P2 and the filament yarn 3 into the drafted short fiber aggregate It is desirable that the fleece interval D with the fiber bundle formed by superimposing the layers is in the range of 3 mm to 10 mm. If it is less than 3 mm, the degree of parallelism of the fibers is poor, so that the increase in fluff and the closeness of each other's fiber bundles are weak and it is difficult to expect sufficient wear resistance. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10 mm, the number of fluffs is reduced and the wear resistance is improved, but the spinnability is remarkably lowered and the actual productivity and quality tend to be insufficient.
[0034]
By the above manufacturing method, the composite yarn of the present invention in which the fiber bundle (A) composed of the short fibers and the filament yarn 3 and the fiber bundle (B) composed of the filament yarn 2 are wound around each other is obtained. Can do.
[0035]
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention may be any woven fabric or knitted fabric using the composite yarn as described above, and any type of weaving or the like may be used. Further, yarns other than the composite yarn of the present invention may be partially used.
[0036]
【Example】
Examples and the like specifically showing the configuration and effects of the present invention will be described below. In addition, the evaluation methods, such as a physical-property value in an Example etc., are as follows.
[0037]
A. Strength, elongation Measured with a constant speed extension type tensile tester (Tensurapid manufactured by Zellwüger Usta) of JIS L-1095-1979 (general spinning test method) at a grip interval of 50 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm / min. .
[0038]
B. Fluff of 1 mm or more (co / 10 m) was measured with an F-index tester manufactured by Kashikijima Spinning Co., Ltd.
[0039]
C. Thread uniformity (U%)
It was measured with an Evenestester UT-III type.
[0040]
D. It measured with the abrasion-resistant warp conjugation force tester (made by Rihada Iwata). This warp tying force tester rotates a circular drum with a titanium surface of 20 cm in diameter at 80 times / min, fixes one end of the yarn, and puts a load of 70 g on the other end to contact this drum to bring the filament and short The degree of wear resistance was expressed by the number of revolutions until the fiber bundle separated, so-called sheath removal.
[0041]
E. Evaluation of fabric uniformity (quality), resilience, bulge, lightness, and dryness on the surface 140 mm / inch x 95 / inch woven standard yarn, tricotine and then processed with normal processed fabric The evaluation was based on the evaluation, and the four levels of very good ◎, good ◯, normal △, and bad × were evaluated by seven people, and the most highly evaluated step values were shown.
[0042]
Example 1
As the filament yarn 2 constituting the fiber bundle (B), a multifilament yarn composed of polyethylene terephthalate (50 denier 24 filament, hollow ratio 13%, details and thick portions randomly present in the length direction of the fiber) is used. As the filament yarn 3 constituting the fiber bundle (A), a multifilament yarn (30 denier 5 filaments) made of polyethylene terephthalate is used, and cotton fibers mainly composed of rice cotton are used as short fibers, as shown in FIG. By the method, a composite spun yarn 30's (English cotton count) was obtained. At this time, the weight ratio A / B between the fiber bundle (A) and the fiber bundle (B) was 2.54.
[0043]
The obtained composite yarn is a composite yarn obtained by actual twisting so that a fiber bundle (A) having a core-sheath structure and a fiber bundle (B) composed only of filaments are wound around each other. The fluff index of 1 mm or more was 380 per 10 m.
[0044]
As a result of weaving and dyeing using the composite yarn, a high-quality fabric having a dry surface feeling and excellent elasticity and swelling was obtained. In addition, it showed excellent properties in yarn uniformity and wear resistance.
[0045]
Example 2
In Example 1, instead of using a solid multifilament yarn as the filament yarn 3, a multifilament yarn (30 denier 5 filaments) with a hollow ratio of 25% having a circular cross section in which the hollow portion is divided into four crosses is used. Except for the above, a composite yarn and a fabric were obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 1.
[0046]
Comparative Example 1
In Example 1, instead of using a multifilament yarn (30 denier 5 filaments) as the filament yarn 3, a composite yarn and a fabric are exactly the same as in Example 1 except that a multifilament yarn (30 denier 18 filaments) is used. Got.
[0047]
Comparative Example 2
In Example 1, instead of using a hollow multifilament yarn as the filament yarn 2, a composite yarn was used in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that a multifilament yarn having a circular solid cross section (50 denier 24 filaments) was used. And a fabric was obtained.
[0048]
Conventional Example 1
Core yarn with core-sheath structure in which short fibers are arranged in the sheath with filament group as the core, that is, composite yarn 30's (English cotton count) with polyester multifilament yarn (75 denier 36 filament, circular solid cross section) and cotton fiber Was subjected to spinning and weaving to obtain composite yarn and fabric.
[0049]
Conventional example 2
A composite yarn obtained by opening a multifilament with a spreader and mixed with a short fiber, that is, a polyester multifilament yarn (75 denier 36 filament, circular solid cross section) and a composite yarn 30's (English) The type cotton count) was spun and woven to obtain composite yarns and fabrics.
[0050]
The results of comparing the above characteristics are shown in Table 1.
[0051]
[Table 1]
Figure 0003606431
[0052]
From Table 1, the following was confirmed. The composite yarn according to the present invention was excellent in yarn uniformity and abrasion resistance, and had less fuzz. In addition, the fabric characteristics are high quality and elastic, and further have a feeling of swelling and light weight that has not been found in the past, and it was confirmed that the fabric has a dry surface feeling.
[0053]
On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 that does not use a single yarn filament of 5 denier or more shows excellent yarn characteristics as in Example 1, but did not yield the desired elastic fabric. . Further, in Comparative Example 2 in which no hollow filament was used, it was insufficient to obtain a fabric having a feeling of swelling but having a feeling of swelling but having a feeling of elasticity.
[0054]
On the other hand, in Conventional Example 1 composed only of a core-sheath core yarn, the fluff and wear resistance are insufficient due to the influence of mutual interference (migration) of long and short fibers, and the fabric characteristics are also unsatisfactory. there were. Further, in the conventional example 2 which is a composite yarn obtained by opening a multifilament and blended with short fibers, it was not possible to obtain a feeling of resilience and swelling satisfying in the fabric characteristics.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of the composite yarn of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic perspective view of the composite yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention.
1 Coarse yarn (aggregate of short fibers)
2 Filament yarn 3 Filament yarn A Fiber bundle (A)
B Fiber bundle (B)
C Twisted zone b Short fiber b Filament

Claims (2)

フィラメント糸が芯に短繊維が鞘に配置された芯鞘構造の繊維束(A)と、フィラメント糸のみからなる繊維束(B)とが互いに巻き付く様に実撚がかけられてなる複合糸であって、前記繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントの双方もしくは繊維束(B)に用いるフィラメントが中空率5〜40%であり、前記繊維束(A)と(B)に用いるフィラメントのいずれか一方が単糸繊度で5デニール以上であり、前記繊維束(B)に用いるフィラメントが中空率5〜40%であり、繊維の長さ方向に細部と太部がランダムに存在することを特徴とする複合糸。A composite yarn in which an actual twist is applied so that a fiber bundle (A) having a core-sheath structure in which a filament yarn is arranged in the core and a short fiber is arranged in the sheath and a fiber bundle (B) made only of the filament yarn are wound around each other. And both the filaments used for the fiber bundles (A) and (B) or the filaments used for the fiber bundle (B) have a hollowness of 5 to 40% and are used for the fiber bundles (A) and (B). Either one of the filaments has a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or more, the filament used in the fiber bundle (B) has a hollowness of 5 to 40%, and details and thick portions are present randomly in the fiber length direction. Composite yarn characterized by that. 請求項1に記載の複合糸を用いた織編物。A woven or knitted fabric using the composite yarn according to claim 1.
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