JP6157448B2 - 美容用又は治療用組成物中の天然有効成分の使用 - Google Patents
美容用又は治療用組成物中の天然有効成分の使用 Download PDFInfo
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- JP6157448B2 JP6157448B2 JP2014267016A JP2014267016A JP6157448B2 JP 6157448 B2 JP6157448 B2 JP 6157448B2 JP 2014267016 A JP2014267016 A JP 2014267016A JP 2014267016 A JP2014267016 A JP 2014267016A JP 6157448 B2 JP6157448 B2 JP 6157448B2
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000004835 α-tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002076 α-tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
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Description
−酵母の加熱処理、続いての酵母細胞壁分解酵素による処理による、混合物の取得の段階、
−該混合物のタンパク質精製及び分離による、酵母タンパク質の取得の段階、及び
−該タンパク質の加水分解の段階
を経て取得される、ペプチド組成物の美容用途の使用が記載されている。
−温度0℃未満での、酵母の原形質分離及びホモジナイズ、
−70時間以上のタンパク質分解酵素処理、
−ジアミンオキシダーゼ処理による、ヒスタミンを有する物質の排除、
−アルコール混合物を用いた分別沈殿による、残余タンパク質の排除
を含むプロセスを経て取得される、ヒスタミンを含まず、発熱性を有さず、無菌状態の、活性な産物の美容用途が記載されている。
−酵母等の天然物の機械的破砕による、水性ホモジネートの取得、
−α−キモトリプシン及び可能な場合トリプシンからなる加水分解剤を用いた酵素加水分解による、加水分解産物の取得、
−特定の分子量のポリペプチド画分の分離
を含むプロセスを経て取得される生物学的に活性なポリペプチドの美容用途が記載されている。
−保湿、抗老化作用及び/若しくは弾力性等の美容上又は治療上の品質が改善され;並びに/又は
−優秀な経時的安定性を有し;並びに/又は
−その生産が均質で、及び/若しくはその製造プロセスが産業スケールに容易に遂行できる、
新たな天然有効成分の確実な需要が存在する。
−酵母不溶性画分のタンパク質加水分解による加水分解酵母タンパク質の取得、及び
−該加水分解酵母タンパク質と許容される美容用又は治療用ビヒクルとの混合
からなる、前記方法である。
本発明の目的は、有効成分として加水分解酵母タンパク質を含む、美容用又は治療用組成物である。
及び/又は抗座瘡作用、及び/又は抗ふけ作用、及び/又は毛髪再建効果、及び/又は毛髪の艶(brightness)、及び/又は滑らかさ、及び/又は成長に対する作用を有する。
−酵母不溶性画分のタンパク質加水分解による加水分解酵母タンパク質の取得、及び
−該加水分解酵母タンパク質と許容される美容用又は治療用ビヒクルとの混合
からなる、美容用又は治療用組成物の調製プロセスにも関する。
−酵母不溶性画分のタンパク質加水分解による加水分解酵母タンパク質の取得、及び
−該加水分解酵母タンパク質と1つ以上の追加的な有効成分及び許容される美容用又は治療用ビヒクルとの混合
からなる、美容用又は治療用組成物の調製プロセスにも関する。
設備及び方法
乾燥物の割合が12〜30質量%のサッカロマイケス・セレウィシアエ(Saccharomyces cerevisiae)の酵母細胞の水性懸濁物を、70℃〜90℃で1〜3時間加熱処理に付す(内在性細胞酵素を不活性化するため)。この加熱処理は、不溶性画分を可溶性画分から分離させる酵母の原形質分離を引き起こし、可溶性画分は制限される。可溶性画分の不溶性画分からの分離は、幾つかの連続した遠心分離及び水による洗浄の工程を通じて実行される(該工程は少なくとも2回以上、好ましくは3回以上繰り返される)。
本発明において、前記のように濃縮し、可溶化し、加水分解した画分を精製及び乾燥して取得した加水分解酵母タンパク質を、今後「A」と表記する。これは明るい褐色をしている。
設備及び方法
正常ヒト表皮ケラチノサイト及び正常ヒト皮膚線維芽細胞の発現プロフィールに対する本発明の加水分解酵母タンパク質の効果を、DNAマイクロアレイにおいて評価する。
皮膚線維芽細胞のマイクロアレイにおいて活性化していた遺伝子中に、細胞増殖に関与する遺伝子、及び細胞外マトリックスの合成に関与する遺伝子がある。
加水分解酵母タンパク質として、実施例1に記載したものを使用する。
KSFM培地(無血清)を張った96ウェルのウェル中に、正常ヒト表皮ケラチノサイトのNHEKを播種して、試験を行う。様々な濃度の加水分解酵母タンパク質の存在下で(0.04mg/ml)、脂質合成、FLG(フィラグリン)、CK10(サイトケラチン)及びTGK(トランスグルタミナーゼK)の合成、及びヒアルロン酸合成を評価する。同じ条件下で3つの培養ウェルを用意する。
正常ヒト皮膚線維芽細胞(NHDF)及び正常ヒト皮膚老化線維芽細胞(AgNHDF)を、10%SVF添加DMEM培地を張った96ウェルプレートのウェル中に播種する。試験は、1%SVF添加DMEM中で行う。
正常ヒト皮膚老化線維芽細胞(AgNHDF)において、試験を行う。
再構成ヒト表皮において、試験を行う。再構成表皮を培養する。5日目に、培養物(culture)を、分解酵母タンパク質を3つの濃度で局所適用して処置する。
Dunnett多重比較検定を用いた分散分析(ANOVA)により、グループ間比較を行う。
(i)表皮に対する保湿作用の評価
前記加水分解酵母タンパク質の存在下では、陰性コントロールと比較して、ケラチノサイトによる脂質及びヒアルロン酸の合成が活性化する。
前記加水分解酵母タンパク質の存在下では、細胞増殖の活性化、及び細胞外マトリックスの主要な構成成分の合成の増強(陰性コントロールに対して)が認められる。
前記加水分解酵母タンパク質の存在下では、陰性コントロールと比較して、コラーゲンの発現レベルの増大、及びマトリックス周囲への蓄積により示されるコラーゲンの成熟が観察される。皮膚相当物(dermis equivalent)の密度の増大(細胞数と直径との割合が陰性コントロールに対して低下することによる)から、コラーゲン格子の良好な収縮が示される。加えて、線維芽細胞によるエラスチン合成は、陰性コントロールと比較して活性化される。これら全ての要素は、加水分解酵母タンパク質が皮膚の生化学的質を改善することを暗示する(特に、弾力性及び圧縮率において)。
加水分解酵母タンパク質溶液の存在下では、ヒアルロン酸の発現の増大(陰性コントロールと比較して)が観察される。
設備及び方法
皮膚又は頭皮のそれぞれのレベルにおいて過剰脂漏症を示す対象の皮膚又は頭皮に、前記加水分解酵母タンパク質溶液を適用する。
前記加水分解酵母タンパク質溶液は、皮脂分泌量を減少させる。
設備及び方法
(i)加水分解酵母タンパク質
加水分解酵母タンパク質として、実施例1に記載のものを使用する。
前記加水分解酵母タンパク質溶液を、ふけに苦しむ対象の頭皮に適用する。該加水分解酵母タンパク質溶液による処置の後、処置領域にパッチを適用し、頭皮のふけを回収する。
毛髪の成長の速度は、以下の方法:処置前に、対象の一束の毛髪を、根元から2〜3cmにかけて染色し;前記加水分解酵母タンパク質を頭皮に適用し;根元から染色部分までの距離を測定することにより評価する。
毛髪の艶は、毛髪表面に反射される光の量及び強度を測定することにより判定される。そのために、交差分極(crossed polarisation)及び非分極(non−polarisation)の毛髪の写真を撮影する。これらの2つの写真をグレーレベルに転換し、2つの写真の明度の差を取ることにより、毛髪の艶を定量する。
毛髪の柔軟性の感触を評価するための3人の適切な人間で構成される試験者の集団による官能分析(sensory analysis)により、毛髪の柔軟性を評価する。
干渉顕微鏡(interferometric microscope)を用いた毛髪表面のトポグラフィーの測定により、毛髪の再建を評価する。
−スケールの開口
−スケールの長さ
−表面のトポロジー、即ち粗さ
をパラメーターとする。
前記加水分解酵母タンパク質の毛髪への適用は、抗ふけ作用及び毛髪の成長の増大作用をもたらす。
以下の組成物は、本発明の非限定的な例示を構成する。
Claims (9)
- 美容用組成物を調製する方法であって、以下の工程:
−酵母外殻から加水分解酵母タンパク質の調製、及び
−該加水分解酵母タンパク質と許容される美容用ビヒクルとの混合を含み、
前記酵母加水分解タンパク質が、分子量が1〜5kDaの酵母加水分解タンパク質を、40%以上含み、
前記酵母外殻から前記加水分解酵母タンパク質を、
サッカロマイケス・セレウィシアエ(Saccharomyces cerevisiae)の酵母細胞を、70℃〜90℃で1〜3時間加熱処理に付すこと、
前記酵母細胞の加熱処理後、酵母外殻を分離させること、
前記酵母外殻を、1つ以上のプロテアーゼで、45℃〜65℃で18時間以上、外来性酵素加水分解に付して、酵母加水分解タンパク質を含む反応混合物を産出すること、および
前記酵母加水分解タンパク質を前記反応混合物から分離すること、から調製する、前記方法。 - 前記酵母加水分解タンパク質を前記反応混合物から分離することは、遠心分離、濃縮、濾過、又は活性炭処理を含むことを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の方法。
- 前記1つ以上のペプチダーゼが、パパイン、トリプシン、キモトリプシン、サブチリシン、ペプシン、サーモリシン、プロナーゼ、フラバスタシン(flavastacine)、エンテロキナーゼ、Xa因子プロテアーゼ、フューリン(furin)、ブロメライン、プロテイナーゼK、ゲネナーゼI(genenase I)、サーミターゼ(thermitase)、カルボキシペプチダーゼA、カルボキシペプチダーゼB、コラゲナーゼ、及び/それらの組み合わせの中から選択されることを特徴とする、請求項1又は2に記載の方法。
- 前記加水分解酵母タンパク質が、分子量が1kDa未満の酵母タンパク質を、質量比で55%以下含むことを特徴とする、請求項1〜3のいずれか1項に記載の方法。
- 前記加水分解酵母タンパク質のAN/TN比率が、35%以下であることを特徴とする、請求項1〜4のいずれか1項に記載の方法。
- 加水分解酵母タンパク質が0.001%〜20%含まれる、請求項1〜5のいずれか1項に記載の方法。
- 保存料、キレート剤、着色料、UVフィルター、pH調整剤、テクスチャリング剤(texturising agent)、香料若しくは酸化防止剤の中から選択される1つ以上の添加物、及び/又は親水性化合物、疎水性化合物若しくは界面活性剤の中から選択される1つ以上の賦形剤をさらに含み、
前記親水性化合物は、水、アルコール、及びポリオールの中から選択され、前記疎水性化合物は、炭水化物、脂肪酸、脂肪アルコール、エステル、グリセリド、セリド(ceride)、及びホスファチドの中から選択されることを特徴とする、請求項1〜6のいずれか1項に記載の方法。 - 請求項1〜7のいずれか1項に記載の方法により取得される美容用組成物を、皮膚及び/又は皮膚付属器及び/又は粘膜と接触させる工程を含む、美容処理方法。
- 皮膚及び/若しくは粘膜及び/若しくは皮膚付属器の保湿、並びに/又は皮膚及び/若しくは粘膜及び/若しくは皮膚付属器の修復の改善、並びに/又は皮膚の弾力性の改善、並びに/又は皮膚の抗老化並びに/又は皮脂分泌制御、並びに/又はふけの減少を意図する、請求項8に記載の美容処理方法。
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FR0800754A FR2927254B1 (fr) | 2008-02-12 | 2008-02-12 | Utilisation de substances actives naturelles dans des compositions cosmetiques ou therapeutiques |
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JP2014267016A Active JP6157448B2 (ja) | 2008-02-12 | 2014-12-29 | 美容用又は治療用組成物中の天然有効成分の使用 |
JP2016235413A Pending JP2017071632A (ja) | 2008-02-12 | 2016-12-02 | 美容用又は治療用組成物中の天然有効成分の使用 |
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EP (1) | EP2252258B1 (ja) |
JP (3) | JP2011514320A (ja) |
KR (1) | KR20100121477A (ja) |
AU (1) | AU2009213799B2 (ja) |
DK (1) | DK2252258T3 (ja) |
ES (1) | ES2701598T3 (ja) |
FR (1) | FR2927254B1 (ja) |
RU (1) | RU2491910C9 (ja) |
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EP2252258A2 (fr) | 2010-11-24 |
RU2491910C2 (ru) | 2013-09-10 |
US20130287715A1 (en) | 2013-10-31 |
AU2009213799B2 (en) | 2014-03-06 |
DK2252258T3 (da) | 2019-01-02 |
US9289460B2 (en) | 2016-03-22 |
KR20100121477A (ko) | 2010-11-17 |
WO2009101503A2 (fr) | 2009-08-20 |
RU2491910C9 (ru) | 2013-12-20 |
AU2009213799A1 (en) | 2009-08-20 |
JP2017071632A (ja) | 2017-04-13 |
WO2009101503A3 (fr) | 2009-10-15 |
RU2010133507A (ru) | 2012-03-20 |
FR2927254A1 (fr) | 2009-08-14 |
JP2015120701A (ja) | 2015-07-02 |
ES2701598T3 (es) | 2019-02-25 |
FR2927254B1 (fr) | 2010-03-26 |
JP2011514320A (ja) | 2011-05-06 |
US20110052514A1 (en) | 2011-03-03 |
EP2252258B1 (fr) | 2018-09-19 |
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