JP4838605B2 - Polyester-based toned composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric - Google Patents

Polyester-based toned composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric Download PDF

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JP4838605B2
JP4838605B2 JP2006074551A JP2006074551A JP4838605B2 JP 4838605 B2 JP4838605 B2 JP 4838605B2 JP 2006074551 A JP2006074551 A JP 2006074551A JP 2006074551 A JP2006074551 A JP 2006074551A JP 4838605 B2 JP4838605 B2 JP 4838605B2
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恭雄 岸田
宗政 大久保
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ユニチカトレーディング株式会社
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本発明は、製編織して染色することにより、杢感、ソフト感とふくらみ感に優れた布帛となり、かつ環境低負荷型のポリエステル系杢調複合糸及び織編物に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a fabric having excellent feeling of wrinkle, soft feeling and swell by knitting and weaving and dyeing, and also relates to an environmentally low load type polyester-based tone composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric.
従来、合成繊維マルチフィラメント、中でも特にポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)を用いた複合糸は、汎用性の点から幅広く用いられており、その特徴を活かすべく様々な提案がなされてきた。   Conventionally, composite yarns using synthetic fiber multifilaments, especially polyethylene terephthalate (PET), have been widely used from the viewpoint of versatility, and various proposals have been made to make use of their characteristics.
例えば特許文献1では、長手方向に複屈折率が20×10−3〜60×10−3 の範囲で太細斑を有するポリエステルマルチフィラメントAと、捲縮を有するポリエステルマルチフィラメントBとからなる混繊糸であって、前記混繊糸の20〜80質量%がカチオン可染性ポリエステルである杢調嵩高加工糸が提案されている。
この加工糸は、明瞭かつ急激な濃淡変化がなく、織編物に斑のある触感、ナチュラル感、ソフト感を付与できるとともに、梳毛ウール調のヌメリ感、ナチュラルな杢外観を付与することができる。
For example, in Patent Document 1, a mixture of a polyester multifilament A having thick and thin spots and a polyester multifilament B having crimps in the longitudinal direction with a birefringence in the range of 20 × 10 −3 to 60 × 10 −3. A toned bulky processed yarn has been proposed which is a fine yarn, and 20 to 80% by mass of the mixed yarn is a cationic dyeable polyester.
This processed yarn does not have a clear and rapid change in shading, and can impart a tactile sensation, natural feeling, and soft feeling to the woven or knitted fabric, and can impart a woolen-like slimy feeling and a natural wrinkle appearance.
しかし、この加工糸は、複屈折率の低いカチオン可染性ポリエステル糸が複合されているため、ピリング、スナッギング等の物性が悪く、また、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントAは弛緩熱処理を施されており、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントBは仮撚加工を施されていることから、加工糸を構成するいずれの糸条も熱水収縮率が低いため、コシのない織編物しか得ることができなかった。さらに、分散染料単独で染色した場合、カチオン可染性ポリエステルは若干染まりやすい傾向にあるが、2糸条間で明瞭な染色色差を得るためには分散染料とカチオン染料を併用した両染めが必要であり、染料を余分に使用することに加え、いずれの糸条も石油由来のもので、かつ廃棄しても自然界では分解され難いため、その生産や廃棄処理で消費するエネルギーが大きく、これらが環境に与える影響は大きい。   However, since this processed yarn is compounded with a cationic dyeable polyester yarn having a low birefringence, physical properties such as pilling and snacking are poor, and the polyester multifilament A has been subjected to relaxation heat treatment. Since the multifilament B is false twisted, any yarn constituting the processed yarn has a low hot water shrinkage rate, so that only a woven or knitted fabric with no stiffness can be obtained. Furthermore, when dyed with a disperse dye alone, the cationic dyeable polyester tends to be slightly dyed, but in order to obtain a clear dyeing color difference between two yarns, both dyes using a disperse dye and a cationic dye are required. In addition to the extra use of dyes, all the yarns are derived from petroleum and are difficult to decompose in nature even if they are discarded. The impact on the environment is significant.
この環境問題の点で、近年、植物由来で生分解性を有する脂肪族ポリエステルを用いる傾向が強まってきており、様々な加工糸の提案がなされている。
例えば特許文献2には、2種以上の異なる断面形状を有するフィラメントからなるポリエステル系混繊糸であって、少なくとも1種のフィラメントが融点130℃以上の脂肪族ポリエステルを主体とするポリエステルで形成されているポリエステル系混繊糸が提案されている。
この混繊糸は、ソフト感、反発感及び発色性に優れ、さらにドライ感、吸水性及び生分解性を有するものの、単にフィラメント群間で断面形状が異なることにより前記特徴を付与しているため、ふくらみ感に欠けるとともに、フィラメント群間の色差が発現し難く、この混繊糸を使用した織編物は表面効果が乏しいという問題があった。
In recent years, the tendency to use plant-derived biodegradable aliphatic polyester has been increasing, and various processed yarns have been proposed.
For example, Patent Document 2 discloses a polyester-based mixed yarn composed of filaments having two or more different cross-sectional shapes, wherein at least one filament is formed of a polyester mainly composed of an aliphatic polyester having a melting point of 130 ° C. or higher. Polyester blended yarns have been proposed.
This blended yarn has excellent softness, resilience and color developability, and also has a dry feeling, water absorbency and biodegradability, but simply imparts the above-mentioned characteristics by having different cross-sectional shapes between filament groups. Further, there is a problem that the knitted fabric using the blended yarn has a poor surface effect because it lacks a feeling of swelling and hardly causes a color difference between the filament groups.
すなわち、脂肪族ポリエステルは、その特性上高温での染色が困難であり、110〜115℃近辺での染色が主流となっているのに対し、PETのような芳香族ポリエステルは逆に高温での染色が不可欠で、前記温度では染着性が低い。しかし、特許文献2記載の発明では、異なる断面形状を有するフィラメント群で混繊糸を構成することでPETの発色性などを向上させるもので、発色性が向上すれば染着性の差は小さくなり、この混繊糸を構成する脂肪族ポリエステルと他のポリエステルとの染着性の差を積極的に活用しようという技術思想は全くない。   That is, aliphatic polyesters are difficult to dye at high temperatures due to their characteristics, and dyeing at around 110-115 ° C. is the mainstream, whereas aromatic polyesters such as PET are conversely at high temperatures. Dyeing is indispensable, and the dyeing property is low at the above temperature. However, the invention described in Patent Document 2 improves the color developability of PET by forming a mixed yarn with filament groups having different cross-sectional shapes. If the color developability is improved, the difference in dyeability is small. Therefore, there is no technical idea to actively utilize the difference in dyeing property between the aliphatic polyester and the other polyester constituting the blended yarn.
特開2002−115140号公報JP 2002-115140 A 特開2000−226747号公報JP 2000-226747 A
本発明は、上記の問題を解決し、2糸条間の染色性の違いによる欠点を逆に利用し、製編織して染色することにより、明瞭な杢感を有し、ソフト感とふくらみ感に優れた布帛となり、かつ環境低負荷型のポリエステル系杢調複合糸を提供することを技術的な課題とするものである。   The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems, and conversely uses the defects due to the difference in dyeability between the two yarns, and by knitting and weaving and dyeing, it has a clear wrinkle feeling, soft feeling and swelling feeling It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester-based toned composite yarn that is an excellent fabric and has a low environmental load.
本発明者らは、上記の課題を解決するために鋭意検討した結果、ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントとポリエステルマルチフィラメントからなる複合糸において、ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントを非捲縮とし、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントに仮撚捲縮を付与することで、杢感、ソフト感とふくらみ感に優れ、かつ環境低負荷型のポリエステル系杢調複合糸が得られることを知見して本発明に到達した。   As a result of diligent studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have determined that in a composite yarn composed of polylactic acid multifilaments and polyester multifilaments, the polylactic acid multifilaments are not crimped and the polyester multifilaments are false twisted. It has been found that imparting shrinkage provides a polyester-based toned composite yarn that is excellent in wrinkle feeling, soft feeling and bulging feeling, and has a low environmental load, and has reached the present invention.
すなわち、本発明は、次の構成を要旨とするものである。
(1)非捲縮のポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAと仮撚捲縮を有するポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBとからなる複合糸であって、前記ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAの熱水収縮率がポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBの熱水収縮率より大きいことを特徴とするポリエステル系杢調複合糸。
ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBの単糸繊度が1.0dtex以下である上記(1)載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸。
)ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAとポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBとの熱水収縮率差が5%以上である上記(1)又は(2)記載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸。
)ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAとポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBとの染色色差がグレースケールで1.0級差以上である上記(1)〜()のいずれかに記載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸。
)上記(1)〜()のいずれかに記載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸を少なくともその一部に用いた織編物。
That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.
(1) A composite yarn composed of non-crimped polylactic acid multifilaments A and polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments B having false twist crimps, wherein the polylactic acid multifilaments A have a hydrothermal shrinkage ratio of polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments B Polyester-based toned composite yarn characterized by having a hot water shrinkage ratio greater than
(2) polyester heather tone composite yarn of polyethylene terephthalate single fineness of multifilament B is less than 1.0dtex above (1) Symbol placement.
( 3 ) The polyester-based toned composite yarn according to (1) or (2 ), wherein the difference in hot water shrinkage between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 5% or more.
( 4 ) The polyester-based tone composite yarn according to any one of the above (1) to ( 3 ), wherein the dyeing color difference between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 1.0 grade difference or more in gray scale. .
( 5 ) A woven or knitted fabric using the polyester-based toned composite yarn according to any one of (1) to ( 4 ) as at least a part thereof.
本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸を製編織して染色すれば、得られる織編物に、ふくらみ感とソフト感を付与することができ、さらには明瞭な杢により優れた表面効果を付与することが可能となる。また、本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸は、少なくともその一部に植物由来の原料を用いるため、環境への負荷を小さくすることができる。   If the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention is knitted and dyed, the resulting woven or knitted fabric can be given a swell and soft feeling, and moreover, an excellent surface effect can be given to a clear wrinkle. Is possible. In addition, since the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention uses plant-derived raw materials for at least a part thereof, the burden on the environment can be reduced.
以下、本発明について詳細に説明する。
本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸は、非捲縮のポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAと仮撚捲縮を有するポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBとで構成されているが、まず、ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントA(糸条A)について説明する。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The polyester-based twisted composite yarn of the present invention is composed of non-crimped polylactic acid multifilament A and polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B having false twist crimp. A) will be described.
糸条Aを形成するポリ乳酸としては、ポリ−L−乳酸、ポリ−D−乳酸、L−乳酸とD−乳酸との共重合体、L−乳酸とヒドロキシカルボン酸との共重合体、D−乳酸とヒドロキシカルボン酸との共重合体、L−乳酸とD−乳酸とヒドロキシカルボン酸との共重合体からなる群から選ばれる重合体が挙げられる。乳酸の単独重合体であるポリ−L−乳酸とポリ−D−乳酸の融点はそれぞれ約180℃であるが、乳酸系重合体として上記共重合体を用いる場合には、機械的強度、融点等を考慮して共重合体成分の共重合比を決定することが好ましい。例えば、L−乳酸とD−乳酸との共重合体の場合には、L−乳酸とD−乳酸のいずれか一方がモル比で0.9から1.0未満、他方が0を超え0.1未満の範囲にすることが好ましく、また、L−乳酸又はD−乳酸とヒドロキシカルボン酸との共重合体の場合には、例えば上記乳酸をモル比で0.9から1.0未満、共重合成分であるヒドロキシカルボン酸が0を超え0.1未満の範囲にすることが好ましい。   Examples of polylactic acid forming the thread A include poly-L-lactic acid, poly-D-lactic acid, a copolymer of L-lactic acid and D-lactic acid, a copolymer of L-lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid, D -A polymer selected from the group consisting of a copolymer of lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid and a copolymer of L-lactic acid, D-lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid. The melting points of poly-L-lactic acid and poly-D-lactic acid, which are homopolymers of lactic acid, are about 180 ° C., respectively, but when the copolymer is used as a lactic acid polymer, mechanical strength, melting point, etc. It is preferable to determine the copolymerization ratio of the copolymer component in consideration of the above. For example, in the case of a copolymer of L-lactic acid and D-lactic acid, one of L-lactic acid and D-lactic acid is in a molar ratio of 0.9 to less than 1.0, and the other is more than 0 and less than 0. In the case of a copolymer of L-lactic acid or D-lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid, for example, the lactic acid is preferably in a molar ratio of 0.9 to less than 1.0. It is preferable that the hydroxycarboxylic acid as a polymerization component is in the range of more than 0 and less than 0.1.
乳酸とヒドロキシカルボン酸との共重合体におけるヒドロキシカルボン酸としては、グリコール酸、ヒドロキシ酪酸、ヒドロキシ吉草酸、ヒドロキシペンタン酸、ヒドロキシカプロン酸、ヒドロキシヘプタン酸、ヒドロキシオクタン酸等が挙げられる。これらの中でも、コストが安価である点から特にヒドロキシカプロン酸又はグリコール酸が好ましい。   Examples of the hydroxycarboxylic acid in the copolymer of lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid include glycolic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxyvaleric acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, hydroxycaproic acid, hydroxyheptanoic acid, and hydroxyoctanoic acid. Among these, hydroxycaproic acid or glycolic acid is particularly preferable because of its low cost.
次に、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントB(糸条B)を形成するポリエステルとしては、PET、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリプロピレンテレフタレート、ポリ乳酸等いずれでもよいが、本発明においては、PETが好ましく用いられる。PETは高温での仮撚加工が可能なため、後述の仮撚捲縮を強固にできるとともに、熱水収縮率が小さくなるため、熱水収縮率の大きいポリ乳酸からなる糸条Aとの複合糸を使用すれば、製編織、染色して得られる織編物のふくらみ感を大きくすることができる。また、ポリ乳酸からなる糸条Aは、110〜115℃近辺での染色でも、その屈折率の低さから染色性が高く、これに対し、前記温度近辺でのPETの染色性が低いことから2糸条間の色差が大きくなり、染色後の織編物に明瞭な杢感を付与することができる。   Next, the polyester forming the polyester multifilament B (yarn B) may be any of PET, polybutylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polylactic acid, etc., but in the present invention, PET is preferably used. PET is capable of false twisting at a high temperature, so that the false twist crimp described later can be strengthened, and since the hot water shrinkage rate is reduced, it is combined with the yarn A made of polylactic acid having a high hot water shrinkage rate. If the yarn is used, the feeling of swelling of the knitted or knitted fabric obtained by knitting or dyeing can be increased. In addition, the yarn A made of polylactic acid has high dyeability due to its low refractive index even when dyeing around 110 to 115 ° C., whereas the dyeability of PET near the temperature is low. The color difference between the two yarns becomes large, and a clear feeling can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing.
また、本発明においては、糸条Bを形成するポリエステルとしてポリ乳酸を用いることもでき、この場合には、ポリ乳酸のヤング率の低さから、製編織、染色して得られる織編物の風合いを一層ソフトでふくらみ感のあるものにできるとともに、複合糸の全てがポリ乳酸で構成されるため生分解性があり、環境への負荷を一層小さくすることができる。   In the present invention, polylactic acid can also be used as the polyester for forming the yarn B. In this case, because of the low Young's modulus of the polylactic acid, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric obtained by knitting or dyeing Can be made softer and more swelled, and since all of the composite yarn is made of polylactic acid, it is biodegradable and the load on the environment can be further reduced.
なお、糸条Bを形成するポリエステルとしてポリ乳酸を用いる場合には、同じくポリ乳酸で形成された糸条Aとの染色性の差は小さくなる。しかし、後述するように糸条Aは非捲縮で糸条Bは仮撚捲縮を有するため、仮撚捲縮の有無によって染色後の織編物に杢感を付与することができる。   In addition, when using polylactic acid as polyester which forms the thread | yarn B, the difference of the dyeability with the thread | yarn A similarly formed with the polylactic acid becomes small. However, as will be described later, since the yarn A is non-crimped and the yarn B has false twisted crimp, a feeling of wrinkle can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing depending on the presence or absence of false twisted crimp.
本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸は、糸条Aが非捲縮で、かつ糸条Bが仮撚捲縮を有し、かつ糸条Aの熱水収縮率が糸条Bの熱水収縮率より大きいことが必要である。非捲縮糸と仮撚捲縮糸とが複合されていることにより、糸条Aと糸条Bとの間、及び糸条Bのフィラメント間に微細な空間が形成されてふくらみ感が生じるとともに、染色などの熱処理後にヤング率の低い糸条Aが複合糸の芯部に配置されるため、製編織、染色して得られる織編物にソフト感を付与することができる。また、非捲縮糸と仮撚捲縮糸とが複合されているので、仮撚による配向の進行及び断面変形により仮撚捲縮糸の染色性が低下し、非捲縮糸同士あるいは仮撚捲縮糸同士が複合されている場合に比べて、2糸条間の色差が大きくなるため、明瞭な杢感を表現できる。したがって、糸条A、糸条Bともにポリ乳酸を用いる場合でも、染色後の織編物に杢感を付与することができる。   In the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention, the yarn A is non-crimped, the yarn B has a false twist crimp, and the hot water shrinkage rate of the yarn A is the hot water shrinkage of the yarn B. It is necessary to be greater than the rate. By combining the non-crimped yarn and the false twisted crimped yarn, a fine space is formed between the yarn A and the yarn B, and between the filaments of the yarn B, and a feeling of swelling is generated. Since the yarn A having a low Young's modulus is disposed at the core of the composite yarn after heat treatment such as dyeing, a soft feeling can be imparted to the knitted or knitted fabric obtained by knitting or dyeing. Further, since the non-crimped yarn and the false twisted crimped yarn are composited, the dyeing property of the false twisted crimped yarn decreases due to the progress of orientation by the false twist and the cross-sectional deformation, and the non-crimped yarns or false twisted Compared with the case where the crimped yarns are combined, the color difference between the two yarns becomes large, so that a clear feeling of wrinkle can be expressed. Therefore, even when polylactic acid is used for both the yarn A and the yarn B, it is possible to give a feeling of wrinkle to the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing.
糸条Aと糸条Bの両方に仮撚捲縮がある場合には、ふくらみ感は得られるものの、全体的な断面変形が生じるため風合いがガサツクとともに、染色しても糸条Aと糸条Bとの色差が出難く、織編物に明瞭な杢感を表現することができない。一方、糸条Aと糸条Bの両方が非捲縮の場合は、ふくらみ感が得られないことに加えて、糸条Aと糸条Bとの色差が出難く、明瞭な杢感を表現することができない。   When both the yarn A and the yarn B have false twisted crimps, a feeling of bulging is obtained, but since the overall cross-sectional deformation occurs, the texture is not only with the texture, but the yarn A and the yarn are dyed even when dyed. It is difficult to produce a color difference from B, and a clear feeling cannot be expressed on the woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, when both the yarn A and the yarn B are not crimped, in addition to not being able to obtain a bulging feeling, it is difficult to produce a color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B and expresses a clear feeling of crunch. Can not do it.
また、糸条Bを形成するポリエステルとしてPETを用いた場合は、特にその屈折率の高さと断面変形、及び配向の進行による相乗効果により、淡色化が助長されるため、芯側の糸条Aとの間に大きな色差が生じ、織編物の表面効果を一層向上させることができる。加えて、糸条Bの単糸繊度が1.0dtex以下である場合には、染色性がさらに低下し、糸条Aとの染色色差が大きくなって、より明瞭な杢感が得られるとともに、極細糸による表面のソフト感をも得ることができる。   In addition, when PET is used as the polyester for forming the yarn B, since the lightening is promoted particularly by the synergistic effect due to the high refractive index, cross-sectional deformation, and progression of the orientation, the yarn A on the core side A large color difference occurs between the knitted fabric and the surface effect of the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, when the single yarn fineness of the yarn B is 1.0 dtex or less, the dyeability is further lowered, the dyeing color difference from the yarn A is increased, and a clearer feeling of wrinkle is obtained. It is possible to obtain a soft feeling of the surface with ultra fine yarn.
前記したように、本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸は、糸条Aの熱水収縮率が糸条Bの熱水収縮率より大きいことが必要であるが、糸条Aと糸条Bとの熱水収縮率差が5%以上ある場合は、ふくらみ感がより強調されるとともに、芯のしっかりした織編物が得られるため好ましい。この意味で熱水収縮率差は7%以上がより好ましいが、30%を超えると糸条Aの収縮が大き過ぎ、製編織しても風合いの硬い織編物となるため、30%以下が好ましい。   As described above, the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention requires that the hot water shrinkage rate of the yarn A is larger than the hot water shrinkage rate of the yarn B. When the difference in hot water shrinkage ratio is 5% or more, the feeling of swelling is more emphasized, and a woven or knitted fabric with a firm core is obtained, which is preferable. In this sense, the hot water shrinkage difference is more preferably 7% or more. However, if it exceeds 30%, the shrinkage of the yarn A is too large, and even if weaving or weaving, the texture becomes a hard woven or knitted fabric. .
また、本発明においては、糸条Aと糸条Bとの染色色差がグレースケールで1.0級差以上であることが好ましい。染色後にこのような色差を発現することで、製編織、染色して得られる織編物の杢感が一層明瞭となり、表面効果に富んだものとなる。   Moreover, in this invention, it is preferable that the dyeing color difference of the thread | yarn A and the thread | yarn B is a 1.0 grade difference or more in a gray scale. By expressing such a color difference after dyeing, the feeling of wrinkle of the knitted or knitted fabric and the knitted or knitted fabric obtained by dyeing becomes clearer and the surface effect is rich.
本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸における糸条Aと糸条Bとの混繊割合や、複合糸の糸条繊度は特に限定されるものではないが、混繊割合は糸条Aが20〜80質量%、糸条Bが80〜20質量%が好ましく、また、複合糸の糸条繊度は30〜350dtexが好ましい。   The blend ratio of the yarn A and the thread B in the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention and the yarn fineness of the composite yarn are not particularly limited, but the blend ratio is 20 to 20 for the yarn A. 80 mass% and the thread B is preferably 80 to 20 mass%, and the yarn fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 30 to 350 dtex.
また、本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸を構成する糸条A、糸条Bには、酸化チタン等の艶消し剤や機能性を付与するための帯電防止剤、抗菌剤、消臭剤等が添加されていてもよい。さらに、糸条A、糸条Bのフィラメントの断面形状は通常の丸断面に限らず、多角、中空、偏平、その他特殊断面形状のものであってもよい。例えば糸条Aに丸断面糸、糸条Bに中空糸を使用した場合には、糸条A、B間の色差がさらに大きくなり杢感が強調されるため好ましく適用される。   Further, a matting agent such as titanium oxide, an antistatic agent for imparting functionality, an antibacterial agent, a deodorizing agent, etc., to the yarn A and the yarn B constituting the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention May be added. Furthermore, the cross-sectional shape of the filaments of the yarn A and the yarn B is not limited to a normal round cross-section, and may be polygonal, hollow, flat, or other special cross-sectional shapes. For example, when a round cross-section yarn is used for the yarn A and a hollow fiber is used for the yarn B, the color difference between the yarns A and B is further increased, and the feeling of wrinkle is emphasized, which is preferably applied.
次に、本発明の織編物は、本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸を少なくともその一部に用いたものである。このような構成を有するため、前記したように表面効果に富んだ織編物となる。これを効果的に発現させるためには、ポリエステル系杢調複合糸が織編物の30質量%以上、特に50質量%以上となるように使用することが好ましく、ポリエステル系杢調複合糸のみで織編物を形成してもよい。   Next, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention uses the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention as at least a part thereof. Since it has such a structure, it becomes a woven or knitted fabric rich in surface effects as described above. In order to effectively express this, it is preferable that the polyester-based tone composite yarn is used in an amount of 30% by mass or more, particularly 50% by mass or more of the woven or knitted fabric. A knitted fabric may be formed.
次に、本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸の製法例について図面を用いて説明する。
図1は、本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸の一製法例を示す概略工程図である。図1において、ポリ乳酸からなる供給糸1は、スプール2から引き出され、ガイド3を通り、フィードローラ4、ヒータ5、デリベリローラ7の間で延伸されて糸条Aとなり、流体処理領域に供給される。なお、延伸や熱処理の工程が不要であれば、除くことができる。
Next, an example of a method for producing the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, a supply yarn 1 made of polylactic acid is pulled out from a spool 2, passes through a guide 3, is drawn between a feed roller 4, a heater 5, and a delivery roller 7 to become a yarn A, and is supplied to a fluid processing region. The In addition, if the process of extending | stretching or heat processing is unnecessary, it can remove.
一方、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからなる供給糸11は、スプール12から引き出され、ガイド13を通り、フィードローラ14、ヒータ15、仮撚施撚体16、デリベリローラ17の間で仮撚加工が施されて仮撚捲縮を有する糸条Bとなり、流体処理領域に供給される。
次いで、上記の2糸条A、Bは、流体処理ノズル8、第2デリベリローラ9により混繊処理されて本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸となり、パッケージ10に巻き取られる。
On the other hand, the supply yarn 11 made of polyethylene terephthalate is pulled out from the spool 12, passes through the guide 13, is subjected to false twisting between the feed roller 14, the heater 15, the false twisted twisted body 16, and the delivery roller 17, and false twisted. It becomes the thread B which has a crimp, and is supplied to a fluid processing area | region.
Next, the two yarns A and B are subjected to a fiber mixing process by the fluid processing nozzle 8 and the second delivery roller 9 to form the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention, and are wound around the package 10.
なお、本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸を得るための具体的な加工条件は、供給糸の物性に応じて通常の条件を採用すればよく、上記仮撚施撚体16としては、3軸フリクションディスク、ニップベルトや仮撚ベルトのいずれも採用できる。また流体処理ノズル8としては、インターレースノズルやタスランノズルを使用でき、長いピッチの杢感を得る場合にはインターレースノズル、細かいピッチの杢感を得る場合にはタスランノズルを使用すればよい。   In addition, what is necessary is just to employ | adopt normal conditions according to the physical property of a supply yarn as the concrete process conditions for obtaining the polyester-type gradation composite yarn of this invention. Any of friction disks, nip belts and false twist belts can be used. As the fluid processing nozzle 8, an interlace nozzle or a taslan nozzle can be used. An interlace nozzle can be used to obtain a long pitch feeling, and a taslan nozzle can be used to obtain a fine pitch feeling.
次に、本発明を実施例によって具体的に説明する。なお、実施例における各物性は、次の方法にて測定、評価した。
(1)熱水収縮率
JIS−L−1013に準拠して測定した。
(2)糸条Aと糸条Bとの染色色差
糸条Aと糸条Bとの色差を目視にて確認し、グレースケールによって判定を行った。測定は10個所について行い、その平均値を染色色差とした。
(3)杢感、ソフト感及びふくらみ感
熟練者3人による官能試験にて評価を行い、特に優れているものを◎、優れているものを○、普通のものを△、不良のものを×と4段階で評価した。
Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, each physical property in an Example was measured and evaluated by the following method.
(1) Hot water shrinkage rate Measured according to JIS-L-1013.
(2) Dyeing color difference between yarn A and yarn B The color difference between yarn A and yarn B was visually confirmed and judged by a gray scale. The measurement was performed at 10 locations, and the average value was defined as the dyeing color difference.
(3) Sensation of feeling of sensation, softness and bulge The sensory test was conducted by three skilled workers, and ◎ for excellent, ○ for excellent, △ for normal, and × for poor And was rated in four stages.
なお、実施例では、下記の染色処方で染色を行った。
・精練
精練剤:サンモールFL(日華化学社製) 2g/l
温度×時間:80℃×20分
・染色
分散染料:Cibacet Black EL-FGL(チバスペシャルテイケミカルズ社製)
10%o.m.f.
助剤:ニッカサンソルトSN-130(日華化学社製) 0.5g/l
酢酸:0.2ml/l
温度×時間:110℃×30分
浴比:1:50
・還元洗浄
還元洗浄剤:ソーダ灰 5g/l
ハイドロサルフアイト 1g/l
サンモールFL 1g/l
温度×時間:70℃×20分
In the examples, dyeing was performed with the following dyeing prescription.
・ Scouring Scouring Agent: Sun Mall FL (manufactured by Nikka Chemical) 2g / l
Temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes ・ Dyeing Disperse dye: Cibacet Black EL-FGL (Ciba Specialty Chemicals)
10% omf
Auxiliary agent: Nikka Sun Salt SN-130 (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5g / l
Acetic acid: 0.2ml / l
Temperature x time: 110 ° C x 30 minutes Bath ratio: 1:50
・ Reduction cleaning Reduction cleaning agent: Soda ash 5g / l
Hydrosulfite 1g / l
Sun Mall FL 1g / l
Temperature x time: 70 ° C x 20 minutes
(実施例1)
L−乳酸を主成分とする数平均分子量が140,000のポリ乳酸(L−乳酸単位:98.2モル%、D−乳酸単位:1.8モル%)を、2軸エクストルーダーを用い、温度205〜225℃で約10分間溶融混練した後、水中にストランド状に押し出してカッティングすることによりチップを作製した。
次に、このチップを用いて紡糸温度220℃、紡糸速度3000m/分で溶融紡糸し、供給糸1として110dtex/36fのポリ乳酸高配向未延伸糸を得た。
Example 1
A polylactic acid (L-lactic acid unit: 98.2 mol%, D-lactic acid unit: 1.8 mol%) containing L-lactic acid as a main component and having a number average molecular weight of 140,000 was used using a biaxial extruder. After melt-kneading at a temperature of 205 to 225 ° C. for about 10 minutes, a chip was prepared by extruding into water in a strand shape and cutting.
Next, using this chip, melt spinning was performed at a spinning temperature of 220 ° C. and a spinning speed of 3000 m / min to obtain 110 dtex / 36 f of polylactic acid highly oriented undrawn yarn as supply yarn 1.
また、通常のPETを紡糸し、供給糸11として100dtex/144fのPET高配向未延伸糸を得た。
これらを供給糸として、図1に示す工程に従い、表1の条件にて加工して、156dtex/180fのポリエステル系杢調複合糸を得た。
Ordinary PET was spun to obtain 100 dtex / 144 f of PET highly oriented undrawn yarn as the supply yarn 11 .
Using these as supply yarns, processing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the steps shown in FIG. 1 to obtain 156 dtex / 180 f polyester-based toned composite yarns.
次いで、得られたポリエステル系杢調複合糸を用いて、ウォータージェットルームで経糸密度72本/2.54cm、緯糸密度64本/2.54cmで平織物を製織し、前記処方により染色し、仕上げ加工を行った。   Next, using the obtained polyester-based toned composite yarn, weaving a plain fabric with a warp density of 72 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft yarn density of 64 yarns / 2.54 cm in a water jet loom, dyeing according to the above-mentioned prescription, finishing Processing was performed.
(比較例1)
供給糸1として、通常のPETを紡糸して得た100dtex/36fのPET高配向未延伸糸を用い、供給糸11として、実施例1のポリ乳酸チップを用いて得られた110dtex/96fのポリ乳酸高配向未延伸糸を用いた以外は、実施例1と同様にして、図1に示す工程に従い、表1の条件にて加工して、157dtex/132fのポリエステル系複合糸を得た。
次いで、得られたポリエステル系複合糸を用いて、実施例1と同様にして製織、染色、仕上げ加工を行った。
(Comparative Example 1)
A 100 dtex / 36 f PET highly oriented unstretched yarn obtained by spinning ordinary PET as the supply yarn 1 and a 110 dtex / 96 f poly obtained using the polylactic acid chip of Example 1 as the supply yarn 11. A polyester composite yarn of 157 dtex / 132f was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the lactic acid highly oriented undrawn yarn was used and processed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the steps shown in FIG.
Subsequently, weaving, dyeing, and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained polyester composite yarn.
(比較例2)
供給糸11に仮撚を施さない以外は実施例1と同様にして、図1に示す工程に従い、表1の条件にて加工して、151dtex/180fのポリエステル系複合糸を得た。
次いで、得られたポリエステル系複合糸を用いて、実施例1と同様にして製織、染色、仕上げ加工を行った。
(Comparative Example 2)
A polyester composite yarn of 151 dtex / 180 f was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the supply yarn 11 was not false twisted and processed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the steps shown in FIG.
Subsequently, weaving, dyeing, and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained polyester composite yarn.
実施例1と比較例1,2で得られた複合糸と織物の評価結果を併せて表1に示す。
The composite yarns obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and the evaluation results of the woven fabric are shown together in Table 1.
表1から明らかなように、実施例1で得られた織物は、明瞭な杢感を有し、ソフト感とふくらみ感に優れ、非常にソフトで高質感のものであった。   As can be seen from Table 1, the fabric obtained in Example 1 had a clear sensation, was excellent in softness and swelling, and had a very soft and high texture.
一方、糸条Aが仮撚捲縮を有し、糸条Bが仮撚捲縮を有しない比較例1で得られた織物は、糸条Aと糸条Bとの色差がないので杢外観を呈さず、また、ふくらみ感とソフト感にも欠けていた。次に、糸条A、Bともに仮撚捲縮を有しない比較例2で得られた織物は、糸条Aと糸条Bとの色差がほとんどなくて杢外観を呈さず、また、捲縮がないので、ふくらみ感にも欠けていた。   On the other hand, the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 in which the yarn A has false twist crimp and the yarn B does not have false twist crimp has no color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B. In addition, it lacked a feeling of swelling and softness. Next, the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2 in which both the yarns A and B do not have false twist crimps have almost no color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B, and do not exhibit a wrinkle appearance. There was no bulge.
本発明のポリエステル系杢調複合糸の一製法例を示す概略工程図である。It is a schematic process figure which shows the example of 1 manufacturing method of the polyester-type tone composite thread of this invention.
符号の説明Explanation of symbols
1、11 供給糸
2、12 スプール
3、13 ガイド
4、14 フィードローラ
・ ヒータ
16 仮撚施撚体
7、17 デリベリローラ
8 流体処理ノズル
9 第2デリベリローラ
10 パッケージ
1, 11 Supply thread 2, 12 Spool 3, 13 Guide 4, 14 Feed roller Heater
16 False twisted body 7, 17 Delivery roller 8 Fluid treatment nozzle 9 Second delivery roller
10 packages

Claims (5)

  1. 非捲縮のポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAと仮撚捲縮を有するポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBとからなる複合糸であって、前記ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAの熱水収縮率がポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBの熱水収縮率より大きいことを特徴とするポリエステル系杢調複合糸。 A composite yarn composed of non-crimped polylactic acid multifilament A and polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B having false twisted crimp, and the hydrothermal shrinkage of the polylactic acid multifilament A is hot water of polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B A polyester-based toned composite yarn characterized by a greater shrinkage.
  2. ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBの単糸繊度が1.0dtex以下である請求項1載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸。 Polyester heather tone composite yarn of claim 1 Symbol placement fineness is below 1.0dtex polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B.
  3. ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAとポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBとの熱水収縮率差が5%以上である請求項1又は2記載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸。 The polyester-based toned composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the difference in hot water shrinkage between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 5% or more.
  4. ポリ乳酸マルチフィラメントAとポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントBとの染色色差がグレースケールで1.0級差以上である請求項1〜のいずれかに記載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸。 The polyester-based toned composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein a dyeing color difference between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 1.0 grade difference or more in gray scale.
  5. 請求項1〜のいずれかに記載のポリエステル系杢調複合糸を少なくともその一部に用いた織編物。 A woven or knitted fabric using the polyester-based toned composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 as at least a part thereof.
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JP2011058120A (en) * 2009-09-10 2011-03-24 Teijin Fibers Ltd Spun-like polylactic acid composite false-twisted yarn and method for manufacturing the same

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