JP4838605B2 - Polyester-based toned composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a fabric having excellent feeling of wrinkle, soft feeling and swell by knitting and weaving and dyeing, and also relates to an environmentally low load type polyester-based tone composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric.

  Conventionally, composite yarns using synthetic fiber multifilaments, especially polyethylene terephthalate (PET), have been widely used from the viewpoint of versatility, and various proposals have been made to make use of their characteristics.

For example, in Patent Document 1, a mixture of a polyester multifilament A having thick and thin spots and a polyester multifilament B having crimps in the longitudinal direction with a birefringence in the range of 20 × 10 ^{−3 to} 60 × 10 ^−3. A toned bulky processed yarn has been proposed which is a fine yarn, and 20 to 80% by mass of the mixed yarn is a cationic dyeable polyester.
This processed yarn does not have a clear and rapid change in shading, and can impart a tactile sensation, natural feeling, and soft feeling to the woven or knitted fabric, and can impart a woolen-like slimy feeling and a natural wrinkle appearance.

  However, since this processed yarn is compounded with a cationic dyeable polyester yarn having a low birefringence, physical properties such as pilling and snacking are poor, and the polyester multifilament A has been subjected to relaxation heat treatment. Since the multifilament B is false twisted, any yarn constituting the processed yarn has a low hot water shrinkage rate, so that only a woven or knitted fabric with no stiffness can be obtained. Furthermore, when dyed with a disperse dye alone, the cationic dyeable polyester tends to be slightly dyed, but in order to obtain a clear dyeing color difference between two yarns, both dyes using a disperse dye and a cationic dye are required. In addition to the extra use of dyes, all the yarns are derived from petroleum and are difficult to decompose in nature even if they are discarded. The impact on the environment is significant.

In recent years, the tendency to use plant-derived biodegradable aliphatic polyester has been increasing, and various processed yarns have been proposed.
For example, Patent Document 2 discloses a polyester-based mixed yarn composed of filaments having two or more different cross-sectional shapes, wherein at least one filament is formed of a polyester mainly composed of an aliphatic polyester having a melting point of 130 ° C. or higher. Polyester blended yarns have been proposed.
This blended yarn has excellent softness, resilience and color developability, and also has a dry feeling, water absorbency and biodegradability, but simply imparts the above-mentioned characteristics by having different cross-sectional shapes between filament groups. Further, there is a problem that the knitted fabric using the blended yarn has a poor surface effect because it lacks a feeling of swelling and hardly causes a color difference between the filament groups.

  That is, aliphatic polyesters are difficult to dye at high temperatures due to their characteristics, and dyeing at around 110-115 ° C. is the mainstream, whereas aromatic polyesters such as PET are conversely at high temperatures. Dyeing is indispensable, and the dyeing property is low at the above temperature. However, the invention described in Patent Document 2 improves the color developability of PET by forming a mixed yarn with filament groups having different cross-sectional shapes. If the color developability is improved, the difference in dyeability is small. Therefore, there is no technical idea to actively utilize the difference in dyeing property between the aliphatic polyester and the other polyester constituting the blended yarn.

JP 2002-115140 A JP 2000-226747 A

  The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems, and conversely uses the defects due to the difference in dyeability between the two yarns, and by knitting and weaving and dyeing, it has a clear wrinkle feeling, soft feeling and swelling feeling It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester-based toned composite yarn that is an excellent fabric and has a low environmental load.

  As a result of diligent studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have determined that in a composite yarn composed of polylactic acid multifilaments and polyester multifilaments, the polylactic acid multifilaments are not crimped and the polyester multifilaments are false twisted. It has been found that imparting shrinkage provides a polyester-based toned composite yarn that is excellent in wrinkle feeling, soft feeling and bulging feeling, and has a low environmental load, and has reached the present invention.

That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.
(1) A composite yarn composed of non-crimped polylactic acid multifilaments A and polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments B having false twist crimps, wherein the polylactic acid multifilaments A have a hydrothermal shrinkage ratio of polyethylene terephthalate multifilaments B Polyester-based toned composite yarn characterized by having a hot water shrinkage ratio greater than
(2) polyester heather tone composite yarn of polyethylene terephthalate single fineness of multifilament B is less than 1.0dtex above (1) Symbol placement.
( 3 ) The polyester-based toned composite yarn according to (1) or (2 ), wherein the difference in hot water shrinkage between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 5% or more.
( 4 ) The polyester-based tone composite yarn according to any one of the above (1) to ( 3 ), wherein the dyeing color difference between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 1.0 grade difference or more in gray scale. .
( 5 ) A woven or knitted fabric using the polyester-based toned composite yarn according to any one of (1) to ( 4 ) as at least a part thereof.

  If the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention is knitted and dyed, the resulting woven or knitted fabric can be given a swell and soft feeling, and moreover, an excellent surface effect can be given to a clear wrinkle. Is possible. In addition, since the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention uses plant-derived raw materials for at least a part thereof, the burden on the environment can be reduced.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The polyester-based twisted composite yarn of the present invention is composed of non-crimped polylactic acid multifilament A and polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B having false twist crimp. A) will be described.

  Examples of polylactic acid forming the thread A include poly-L-lactic acid, poly-D-lactic acid, a copolymer of L-lactic acid and D-lactic acid, a copolymer of L-lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid, D -A polymer selected from the group consisting of a copolymer of lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid and a copolymer of L-lactic acid, D-lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid. The melting points of poly-L-lactic acid and poly-D-lactic acid, which are homopolymers of lactic acid, are about 180 ° C., respectively, but when the copolymer is used as a lactic acid polymer, mechanical strength, melting point, etc. It is preferable to determine the copolymerization ratio of the copolymer component in consideration of the above. For example, in the case of a copolymer of L-lactic acid and D-lactic acid, one of L-lactic acid and D-lactic acid is in a molar ratio of 0.9 to less than 1.0, and the other is more than 0 and less than 0. In the case of a copolymer of L-lactic acid or D-lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid, for example, the lactic acid is preferably in a molar ratio of 0.9 to less than 1.0. It is preferable that the hydroxycarboxylic acid as a polymerization component is in the range of more than 0 and less than 0.1.

  Examples of the hydroxycarboxylic acid in the copolymer of lactic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid include glycolic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxyvaleric acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, hydroxycaproic acid, hydroxyheptanoic acid, and hydroxyoctanoic acid. Among these, hydroxycaproic acid or glycolic acid is particularly preferable because of its low cost.

  Next, the polyester forming the polyester multifilament B (yarn B) may be any of PET, polybutylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polylactic acid, etc., but in the present invention, PET is preferably used. PET is capable of false twisting at a high temperature, so that the false twist crimp described later can be strengthened, and since the hot water shrinkage rate is reduced, it is combined with the yarn A made of polylactic acid having a high hot water shrinkage rate. If the yarn is used, the feeling of swelling of the knitted or knitted fabric obtained by knitting or dyeing can be increased. In addition, the yarn A made of polylactic acid has high dyeability due to its low refractive index even when dyeing around 110 to 115 ° C., whereas the dyeability of PET near the temperature is low. The color difference between the two yarns becomes large, and a clear feeling can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing.

  In the present invention, polylactic acid can also be used as the polyester for forming the yarn B. In this case, because of the low Young's modulus of the polylactic acid, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric obtained by knitting or dyeing Can be made softer and more swelled, and since all of the composite yarn is made of polylactic acid, it is biodegradable and the load on the environment can be further reduced.

  In addition, when using polylactic acid as polyester which forms the thread | yarn B, the difference of the dyeability with the thread | yarn A similarly formed with the polylactic acid becomes small. However, as will be described later, since the yarn A is non-crimped and the yarn B has false twisted crimp, a feeling of wrinkle can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing depending on the presence or absence of false twisted crimp.

  In the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention, the yarn A is non-crimped, the yarn B has a false twist crimp, and the hot water shrinkage rate of the yarn A is the hot water shrinkage of the yarn B. It is necessary to be greater than the rate. By combining the non-crimped yarn and the false twisted crimped yarn, a fine space is formed between the yarn A and the yarn B, and between the filaments of the yarn B, and a feeling of swelling is generated. Since the yarn A having a low Young's modulus is disposed at the core of the composite yarn after heat treatment such as dyeing, a soft feeling can be imparted to the knitted or knitted fabric obtained by knitting or dyeing. Further, since the non-crimped yarn and the false twisted crimped yarn are composited, the dyeing property of the false twisted crimped yarn decreases due to the progress of orientation by the false twist and the cross-sectional deformation, and the non-crimped yarns or false twisted Compared with the case where the crimped yarns are combined, the color difference between the two yarns becomes large, so that a clear feeling of wrinkle can be expressed. Therefore, even when polylactic acid is used for both the yarn A and the yarn B, it is possible to give a feeling of wrinkle to the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing.

  When both the yarn A and the yarn B have false twisted crimps, a feeling of bulging is obtained, but since the overall cross-sectional deformation occurs, the texture is not only with the texture, but the yarn A and the yarn are dyed even when dyed. It is difficult to produce a color difference from B, and a clear feeling cannot be expressed on the woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, when both the yarn A and the yarn B are not crimped, in addition to not being able to obtain a bulging feeling, it is difficult to produce a color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B and expresses a clear feeling of crunch. Can not do it.

  In addition, when PET is used as the polyester for forming the yarn B, since the lightening is promoted particularly by the synergistic effect due to the high refractive index, cross-sectional deformation, and progression of the orientation, the yarn A on the core side A large color difference occurs between the knitted fabric and the surface effect of the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, when the single yarn fineness of the yarn B is 1.0 dtex or less, the dyeability is further lowered, the dyeing color difference from the yarn A is increased, and a clearer feeling of wrinkle is obtained. It is possible to obtain a soft feeling of the surface with ultra fine yarn.

  As described above, the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention requires that the hot water shrinkage rate of the yarn A is larger than the hot water shrinkage rate of the yarn B. When the difference in hot water shrinkage ratio is 5% or more, the feeling of swelling is more emphasized, and a woven or knitted fabric with a firm core is obtained, which is preferable. In this sense, the hot water shrinkage difference is more preferably 7% or more. However, if it exceeds 30%, the shrinkage of the yarn A is too large, and even if weaving or weaving, the texture becomes a hard woven or knitted fabric. .

  Moreover, in this invention, it is preferable that the dyeing color difference of the thread | yarn A and the thread | yarn B is a 1.0 grade difference or more in a gray scale. By expressing such a color difference after dyeing, the feeling of wrinkle of the knitted or knitted fabric and the knitted or knitted fabric obtained by dyeing becomes clearer and the surface effect is rich.

  The blend ratio of the yarn A and the thread B in the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention and the yarn fineness of the composite yarn are not particularly limited, but the blend ratio is 20 to 20 for the yarn A. 80 mass% and the thread B is preferably 80 to 20 mass%, and the yarn fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 30 to 350 dtex.

  Further, a matting agent such as titanium oxide, an antistatic agent for imparting functionality, an antibacterial agent, a deodorizing agent, etc., to the yarn A and the yarn B constituting the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention May be added. Furthermore, the cross-sectional shape of the filaments of the yarn A and the yarn B is not limited to a normal round cross-section, and may be polygonal, hollow, flat, or other special cross-sectional shapes. For example, when a round cross-section yarn is used for the yarn A and a hollow fiber is used for the yarn B, the color difference between the yarns A and B is further increased, and the feeling of wrinkle is emphasized, which is preferably applied.

  Next, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention uses the polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention as at least a part thereof. Since it has such a structure, it becomes a woven or knitted fabric rich in surface effects as described above. In order to effectively express this, it is preferable that the polyester-based tone composite yarn is used in an amount of 30% by mass or more, particularly 50% by mass or more of the woven or knitted fabric. A knitted fabric may be formed.

Next, an example of a method for producing the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a polyester-based toned composite yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, a supply yarn 1 made of polylactic acid is pulled out from a spool 2, passes through a guide 3, is drawn between a feed roller 4, a heater 5, and a delivery roller 7 to become a yarn A, and is supplied to a fluid processing region. The In addition, if the process of extending | stretching or heat processing is unnecessary, it can remove.

On the other hand, the supply yarn 11 made of polyethylene terephthalate is pulled out from the spool 12, passes through the guide 13, is subjected to false twisting between the feed roller 14, the heater 15, the false twisted twisted body 16, and the delivery roller 17, and false twisted. It becomes the thread B which has a crimp, and is supplied to a fluid processing area | region.
Next, the two yarns A and B are subjected to a fiber mixing process by the fluid processing nozzle 8 and the second delivery roller 9 to form the polyester-based tone composite yarn of the present invention, and are wound around the package 10.

  In addition, what is necessary is just to employ | adopt normal conditions according to the physical property of a supply yarn as the concrete process conditions for obtaining the polyester-type gradation composite yarn of this invention. Any of friction disks, nip belts and false twist belts can be used. As the fluid processing nozzle 8, an interlace nozzle or a taslan nozzle can be used. An interlace nozzle can be used to obtain a long pitch feeling, and a taslan nozzle can be used to obtain a fine pitch feeling.

Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, each physical property in an Example was measured and evaluated by the following method.
(1) Hot water shrinkage rate Measured according to JIS-L-1013.
(2) Dyeing color difference between yarn A and yarn B The color difference between yarn A and yarn B was visually confirmed and judged by a gray scale. The measurement was performed at 10 locations, and the average value was defined as the dyeing color difference.
(3) Sensation of feeling of sensation, softness and bulge The sensory test was conducted by three skilled workers, and ◎ for excellent, ○ for excellent, △ for normal, and × for poor And was rated in four stages.

In the examples, dyeing was performed with the following dyeing prescription.
・ Scouring Scouring Agent: Sun Mall FL (manufactured by Nikka Chemical) 2g / l
Temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes ・ Dyeing Disperse dye: Cibacet Black EL-FGL (Ciba Specialty Chemicals)
10% omf
Auxiliary agent: Nikka Sun Salt SN-130 (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5g / l
Acetic acid: 0.2ml / l
Temperature x time: 110 ° C x 30 minutes Bath ratio: 1:50
・ Reduction cleaning Reduction cleaning agent: Soda ash 5g / l
Hydrosulfite 1g / l
Sun Mall FL 1g / l
Temperature x time: 70 ° C x 20 minutes

Example 1
A polylactic acid (L-lactic acid unit: 98.2 mol%, D-lactic acid unit: 1.8 mol%) containing L-lactic acid as a main component and having a number average molecular weight of 140,000 was used using a biaxial extruder. After melt-kneading at a temperature of 205 to 225 ° C. for about 10 minutes, a chip was prepared by extruding into water in a strand shape and cutting.
Next, using this chip, melt spinning was performed at a spinning temperature of 220 ° C. and a spinning speed of 3000 m / min to obtain 110 dtex / 36 f of polylactic acid highly oriented undrawn yarn as supply yarn 1.

Ordinary PET was spun to obtain 100 dtex / 144 f of PET highly oriented undrawn yarn as the supply yarn 11 .
Using these as supply yarns, processing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the steps shown in FIG. 1 to obtain 156 dtex / 180 f polyester-based toned composite yarns.

  Next, using the obtained polyester-based toned composite yarn, weaving a plain fabric with a warp density of 72 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft yarn density of 64 yarns / 2.54 cm in a water jet loom, dyeing according to the above-mentioned prescription, finishing Processing was performed.

(Comparative Example 1)
A 100 dtex / 36 f PET highly oriented unstretched yarn obtained by spinning ordinary PET as the supply yarn 1 and a 110 dtex / 96 f poly obtained using the polylactic acid chip of Example 1 as the supply yarn 11. A polyester composite yarn of 157 dtex / 132f was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the lactic acid highly oriented undrawn yarn was used and processed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the steps shown in FIG.
Subsequently, weaving, dyeing, and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained polyester composite yarn.

(Comparative Example 2)
A polyester composite yarn of 151 dtex / 180 f was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the supply yarn 11 was not false twisted and processed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the steps shown in FIG.
Subsequently, weaving, dyeing, and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 using the obtained polyester composite yarn.

The composite yarns obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and the evaluation results of the woven fabric are shown together in Table 1.

  As can be seen from Table 1, the fabric obtained in Example 1 had a clear sensation, was excellent in softness and swelling, and had a very soft and high texture.

  On the other hand, the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 in which the yarn A has false twist crimp and the yarn B does not have false twist crimp has no color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B. In addition, it lacked a feeling of swelling and softness. Next, the woven fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2 in which both the yarns A and B do not have false twist crimps have almost no color difference between the yarn A and the yarn B, and do not exhibit a wrinkle appearance. There was no bulge.

It is a schematic process figure which shows the example of 1 manufacturing method of the polyester-type tone composite thread of this invention.

Explanation of symbols

1, 11 Supply thread 2, 12 Spool 3, 13 Guide 4, 14 Feed roller Heater
16 False twisted body 7, 17 Delivery roller 8 Fluid treatment nozzle 9 Second delivery roller
10 packages

Claims (5)

A composite yarn composed of non-crimped polylactic acid multifilament A and polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B having false twisted crimp, and the hydrothermal shrinkage of the polylactic acid multifilament A is hot water of polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B A polyester-based toned composite yarn characterized by a greater shrinkage. Polyester heather tone composite yarn of claim 1 Symbol placement fineness is below 1.0dtex polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B. The polyester-based toned composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the difference in hot water shrinkage between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 5% or more. The polyester-based toned composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein a dyeing color difference between the polylactic acid multifilament A and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament B is 1.0 grade difference or more in gray scale. A woven or knitted fabric using the polyester-based toned composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 as at least a part thereof.