JP2022057925A - Woven and knitted fabric formed of nylon composite false twisted yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a nylon woven and knitted fabric that has soft touch sense and excellent windbreaking effect when formed into a woven and knitted fabric.SOLUTION: A woven and knitted fabric is formed of nylon filaments. Ratio between KES bending stiffness and dough thickness of the woven and knitted fabric is 1.5 or higher. Ratio between KES bending recoverability and dough thickness is 1.8 or higher. The woven and knitted fabric preferably uses a composite textured yarn in which nylon filament decomposed from the woven and knitted fabric is formed of a nylon filament A having total fineness of 8.0 dtex or higher and 150 dtex or less and single fiber fitness of 0.5 dtex or higher and 8.0 dtex or less and a nylon filament B having total fineness of 8.0 dtex or higher and 350 dtex or less and single fiber fineness of 0.2 dtex or higher and 4.0 dtex or less.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric made of nylon composite false twisted yarn.

In recent fields such as women's clothing, uniforms, and sportswear, woven and knitted fabrics using nylon yarn are widely used because of their excellent supple texture and light weight. In addition, since windproof performance is required for outdoor activities, the method of laminating the fabric is often used.
However, since a urethane film is usually used for laminating, there are practical restrictions such as increased manufacturing cost, rough hardening of texture, and problems with washing durability. There is a demand for a fabric that has both drape and cotton-like texture.
Conventionally, different shrinkage mixed yarns obtained by mixing two or more types of nylon filament yarns with different heat shrinkage rates have a large loop of low shrinkage yarns due to the difference in shrinkage of the constituent yarns by performing heat treatment after knitting or weaving. It is well known that a fabric having a swelling feeling and a soft feeling can be obtained. For example, Patent Document 1 or Patent Document 2 proposes a nylon mixed fiber yarn characterized in that a fabric having good bulkiness can be obtained. Further, Patent Document 3 discloses a bulky mixed fiber yarn obtained by Taslan processing and heat treatment of a low shrinkage yarn made of nylon 6 and a high shrinkage yarn made of a nylon 6 / nylon 66 copolymer.

However, the fabric using these nylon different shrinkage mixed yarns according to the prior art cannot achieve the required air permeability due to insufficient shrinkage, and the windproof performance is insufficient.

Nylon has many excellent physical properties such as low strength and Young's modulus, but has poor shrinkage due to moist heat.

Special Publication No. 58-30424 Special Publication No. 58-31414 Special Fair 1-23577 Gazette

Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a woven or knitted fabric using a nylon composite false twisted yarn having a windproof effect while having a soft and cotton-like feel when made into a woven or knitted fabric.

The first invention of the present application is a woven or knitted fabric composed of nylon filaments, in which the ratio of KES bending rigidity to the fabric thickness of the woven or knitted fabric is 1.5 or more, and the ratio of KES bending recovery to the fabric thickness is 1. It is a woven or knitted fabric characterized by being 8 or more.

In the second invention of the present application, nylon filaments decomposed from the woven or knitted fabric have a total fineness of 8.0 dtex or more, 150 dtex or less, a single yarn fineness of 0.5 dtex or more and 8.0 dtex or less, and a total fineness of 8.0 dtex or more. The woven and knitted fabric according to the first invention of the present application, wherein a composite processed yarn composed of nylon filament B having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less is used.

According to the third invention of the present application, in the composite processed yarn, the nylon filament A is the core portion, the nylon filament B is the sheath portion, the yarn length difference is 15% or more, and the composite processed yarn has substantially loop fluff. It is a woven and knitted fabric according to the second invention of the present application, which is characterized by using the above.

The fourth invention of the present application is the woven and knitted fabric according to the second or third invention of the present application, wherein the composite processed yarn uses a composite processed yarn satisfying the following (1), (2) and (3). be.
(1) Nylon filament A is made of a copolymer of nylon 6 and nylon 66.
(2) The nylon 6 repeating unit of the nylon filament A is 70 to 98% by weight, and the nylon 66 repeating unit is 2 to 30% by weight.
(3) The weight ratio (A / B) of the nylon filament A and the nylon filament B is 30/70 to 70/30.

The fifth invention of the present application is the woven and knitted fabric according to any one of the first to fourth inventions of the present application, characterized in that the proportion of the nylon filament in the woven and knitted fabric is 20 to 100% by weight. ..

The sixth invention of the present application is a knitted product according to any one of the first to fifth inventions of the present application, which is characterized by satisfying the following formula (4).
(4) 50 ≤ AP / M ≤ 2000
AP indicates the amount of airflow (cm ³ / cm ² · sec), M indicates the basis weight (g / cm ² ), AP is 3 to 30 cm ³ / cm ² · sec, and M is 0.015 ~. It is 0.05 g / cm ² .

The seventh invention of the present application is the woven fabric according to any one of the first to fifth inventions of the present application, which is characterized by satisfying the following formula (5).
(5) 0.35 × 10 ^-4 ≤ AP / CF ≤ 5 × 10 ^-2
AP indicates the air flow rate (cm ³ / cm ² · sec), CF indicates the cover factor, AP is 0.1 to 10 cm ³ / cm ² · sec, and CF is 1300 to 5000.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric made of nylon composite false twisted yarn having an excellent windproof effect while having a soft touch feeling when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an embodiment of the manufacturing process of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described.
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric composed of nylon filaments, and the ratio of KES bending rigidity to the fabric thickness of the woven or knitted fabric is 1.5 or more, and the ratio of KES bending recovery to the fabric thickness is 1. It is a woven or knitted fabric characterized by being 8 or more.

The ratio of KES flexural rigidity to fabric thickness is a value obtained by dividing the average of the warp and weft directions of KES flexural rigidity (gf · cm ² / cm) by the fabric thickness (cm), and is the KES bending of woven and knitted fabrics. The ratio of rigidity to fabric thickness is 1.5 or more. When the value is 1.5 or more, even if it is thin, it has elasticity and a moderately firm dough can be obtained. If it is less than 1.5, the fabric will not be elastic and will be unreliable. More preferably, it is 2.0 or more. On the other hand, when it becomes 10 or more, the texture becomes too hard.

KES is an abbreviation of "KAWABATA EVALUATION SYSTEM", which analyzes and mechanizes the movement of the hand "bending" and replaces the bending rigidity with objective numerical data. It is a value measured by a KES bending tester. Yes, it evaluates the texture. The KES flexural rigidity is an index that mainly affects the texture related to elasticity and elasticity, and the higher the value, the higher the rigidity. Further, the KES bending recoverability described later is for evaluating the texture related to the repulsive feeling, and the higher this value is, the higher the recoverability is. All of these are values that depend on the thickness of the fabric, and the thinner the fabric, the smaller the elasticity and resilience, and the texture tends to be unreliable as a whole. Compared to woven and knitted fabrics of the same thickness, the woven and knitted fabric has high resilience, moderate resilience, and elasticity, and has an excellent texture.

The ratio of KES bending recovery and fabric thickness is a value obtained by dividing the average of the warp direction and weft direction of KES bending recovery (gf · cm / cm) by the fabric thickness (cm), and is the KES of the woven or knitted fabric. The ratio of bend recovery to fabric thickness is 1.6 or more. When the value is 1.6 or more, a fabric having high recoverability and an appropriate repulsive feeling can be obtained even if it is thin. If it is less than 1.6, the recoverability is low and there is no repulsive feeling, resulting in an unreliable woven or knitted fabric. More preferably, it is 1.8 or more. On the other hand, when it is 10 or more, the repulsive feeling becomes too high and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is inferior.

Nylon filaments decomposed from the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention include nylon filament A having a total fineness of 8.0 dtex or more and 150 dtex or less, a single yarn fineness of 0.5 dtex or more and 8.0 dtex or less, and a nylon filament having a total fineness of 8.0 dtex or more and 350 dtex or less. It is a composite processed yarn composed of nylon filament B having a yarn fineness of 0.2 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less.

Nylon filament A has a total fineness of 8.0 to 150 dtex, and nylon filament B has a total fineness of 8.0 to 350 dtex. When the total fineness of the nylon filament A is less than 8.0 dtex, it is too thin and it becomes difficult to obtain elasticity. On the other hand, when the total fineness of the nylon filament A exceeds 150 dtex, it becomes too thick and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric becomes hard. Further, regarding the nylon filament B, when the total fineness is less than 8.0 dtex, it is too thin to obtain elasticity, and when the total fineness exceeds 350 dtex, the texture of the fabric becomes hard and the texture becomes hard. The composite balance with the nylon filament A is poor, and the good texture of the composite fiber is impaired.

The single yarn fineness of the nylon filament A is 0.5 to 8.0 dtex, and the single yarn fineness of the nylon filament B is 0.2 to 4.0 dtex. Since the two types of nylon fibers having a specific single yarn fineness are mixed in this way, a portion in which relatively thin nylon filaments are loosely entangled is formed. As a result, a soft touch is obtained. When the single yarn fineness of the nylon filament A is less than 0.5 dtex, it becomes difficult to form the loosely entangled portions as described above. When the single yarn fineness of the nylon filament A and the nylon filament B becomes about the same, the woven or knitted fabric tends to be soft when the composite false twist yarn is used as a woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness of the nylon filament A exceeds 8.0 dtex, the texture tends to be hard. When the single yarn fineness of the nylon filament B is less than 0.2 dtex, the fibers are too thin and the entanglement effect with the nylon filament A becomes small. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness of the nylon filament B exceeds 4.0 dtex, the fibers become rigid and the fiber mixing with the nylon filament A becomes insufficient.

The cross-sectional shape (cross-sectional shape in the direction perpendicular to the length direction) of the single yarn constituting the nylon filament A and the nylon filament B may be a round cross-sectional shape, and may be many as long as the object of the present invention is not deviated. It may have a rectangular shape, a hollow shape, or another cross-sectional shape, or filaments having different cross-sectional shapes may be mixed.

In this composite processed yarn, the nylon filament A is the core portion and the nylon filament B is the sheath portion, and the yarn length difference is 15% or more. The difference in yarn length between the nylon filament A and the nylon filament B obtained by decomposing the knitted fabric is preferably 15% or more. When the difference in yarn length is 15% or more, a woven or knitted fabric having a soft texture and an excellent feeling of fineness can be obtained with a sufficient difference in yarn length. A more preferable yarn length difference is 30% or more. The upper limit is preferably 60% or less from the viewpoint of deterioration of frictional characteristics when a woven or knitted fabric is formed. On the other hand, if the difference in yarn length is less than 15%, the surface feeling is rough and the softness is insufficient when the knitted fabric is woven, which is not preferable. Further, in this composite processed yarn, a yarn having a shrinkage difference may be used for processing.

In addition, the nylon filaments decomposed from the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention have substantially loop fluff on the surface portion. By having loop fluff, it has a cotton-like texture and a soft touch can be ensured.

Nylon 6 and Nylon 66 Copolymer, which is one of the components constituting the nylon filament of the present invention Nylon 6 and nylon 66 copolymer, which are raw materials for the filament yarn, can be polymerized by a conventional method. Generally, hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid are mixed and reacted in an aqueous solution to form nylon 66 salt, and then mixed with ε-caprolactam at a predetermined mixing ratio. The obtained undiluted solution is charged into an autoclave, heated at 250 to 300 ° C. for 2 to 3 hours, maintained at a pressure of 10 and several kg / cm ² , and then released to complete the polymerization.

The nylon 6 and nylon 66 copolymer may contain a known matting agent, light resistant agent, heat resistant material, antistatic agent and the like, if necessary.

The nylon 6 repeating unit of the nylon filament A is preferably 70 to 98% by weight, and the nylon 66 repeating unit is preferably 2 to 30% by weight. When the nylon 6 repeating unit exceeds 98% by weight, the shrinkage difference from the nylon filament B is not sufficient, and a soft tactile sensation cannot be obtained. If the nylon 6 repeating unit is less than 70% by weight, the shrinkage difference from the nylon filament B increases, which causes rough hardening of the texture, which is not preferable.

The weight ratio (A / B) of the nylon filament A and the nylon filament B is preferably 30/70 to 70/30. When the weight of the nylon filament A is less than 30%, the ratio of the nylon filament A is too small and the ratio of the nylon filament B is too large, so that the texture becomes too soft and the feeling of elasticity is lacking. On the other hand, if the weight of the nylon filament A exceeds 70%, the ratio of the nylon filament B is too small, and a soft tactile sensation cannot be obtained.

The proportion of the nylon filament in the woven and knitted fabric of the present application is 20 to 100% by weight. By using 20% by weight or more, a soft texture and a fine feeling on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric can be obtained.

It is preferable that the knitted fabric using the composite false plying yarn of the present application satisfies the following relationship.
AP is the air volume (cm ³ / cm ² · sec), M is the basis weight (g / m ² ), AP is 3 to 30 cm ³ / cm ² · sec, and M is 0.015 to 0. When it is 05 g / m ² ,
50 ≦ AP / M ≦ 2000.
AP / M is an index showing the air permeability per basis weight, and if AP / M is more than 2000, the air permeability is poor and a feeling of stuffiness is felt, which is not preferable. If the AP / M is less than 50, the required air permeability cannot be obtained, which is not preferable.

The surface density of the knitted fabric using the composite false plying of the present application is preferably 65 to 130 courses / 2.54 cm and 60 to 90 wells / 2.54 cm. When the course density and the well density are below the respective lower limits, the knit has a coarse structure and more voids are formed in the knit. Therefore, the windbreak effect cannot be expected. On the other hand, when the course density and the well density exceed the respective upper limits, the binding force by the tissue becomes stronger, and the tearing strength as a knit may decrease.

The fabric using the composite false plying of the present application preferably satisfies the following relationship.
When AP is the air volume (cm ³ / cm ² · sec), CF is the cover factor, AP is 0.1-10 cm ³ / cm ² · sec, and CF is 1300-5000.
0.35 × 10 ^-4 ≦ AP / CF ≦ 5 × 10 ^-2 .
AP / CF is an index showing the air permeability per cover factor, and when AP / CF is less than 0.35 × 10 ^-4 , the required air permeability cannot be obtained, which is not preferable, while AP / CF is 5. If it exceeds × ^10-2 , the air permeability is poor and a feeling of stuffiness is felt, which is not preferable. Therefore, by setting 0.35 × 10 ^-4 ≦ AP / CF ≦ 5 × 10 ⁻² , there is an effect that appropriate air permeability can be obtained without feeling stuffy.

The cover factor of the woven fabric using the composite false plying of the present application is preferably 1300 to 5000. When the cover factor as a woven fabric is less than 1300, the sliding becomes worse and the air permeability becomes high. On the other hand, when the cover factor is more than 5000, an appropriate swelling feeling is insufficient, and only a hard texture can be obtained.
Moreover, as the windbreaker fabric, a plain woven fabric having a high density is preferable.

The structure of the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, and in the case of a woven fabric, plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and, if necessary, multiple textures can be mentioned. Tricot, Russell and optionally multiple tissues can be mentioned.

The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by weaving and knitting the above-mentioned composite false twisted yarn to obtain a raw machine and then post-processing the raw machine. The weaving and knitting may be performed by using a known loom or knitting machine, and the preparatory step prior to the weaving and knitting may also be performed by using known equipment.

In post-processing, the raw machine is refined and relaxed. Refining and relaxation may be performed by a continuous method or a batch method at a temperature of 80 to 130 ° C. Usually, it is preferably carried out by a batch method at 100 ° C. or lower, and particularly preferably by using a high-pressure liquid flow dyeing machine equipped with a jet nozzle.

After refining and relaxing, preset the woven and knitted fabric as needed. The preset is usually heated at 170-200 ° C. for 30-120 seconds using a pin tenter. After the preset, the dyeing is performed according to a conventional method, and then the final set is performed.

<< Manufacturing method of composite false plying >>
In the composite false twist yarn of the present invention, a specific nylon drawn yarn and a nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn are prepared as feed yarns, and the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is temporarily twisted by drawing false twisting under specific conditions. It can be produced through a drawing false twisting step of obtaining a twisted yarn and a mixed fiber entanglement step of mixing and entwining the false twisted yarn and a nylon drawn yarn.

[Preparation of supply yarn]
First, a specific nylon drawn yarn and a nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn are prepared as feed yarns. By going through each step of the manufacturing method of the present invention, the nylon drawn yarn becomes nylon filament yarn A, and the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn becomes nylon multifilament yarn B. In the present invention, the nylon drawn yarn is a yarn obtained by drawing a nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn. In the present invention, the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is a multifilament yarn wound by spinning nylon such as nylon 6, nylon 66, and nylon 46 at a rate of 2000 to 4000 m / min.

[Nylon drawn yarn]
The single yarn fineness of the nylon drawn yarn is preferably 0.5 to 8.0 dtex. If the single yarn fineness of the nylon drawn yarn is less than 0.5 dtex, the entire yarn becomes thin and too soft, and the firmness feeling becomes insufficient when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric. Further, when the single yarn fineness of the nylon drawn yarn exceeds 8.0 dtex, an appropriate swelling feeling is insufficient, and only a hard texture can be obtained.

The elongation of the nylon drawn yarn is preferably 30% to 70%. By using nylon drawn yarn that satisfies such elongation, there is little yarn breakage during the production of composite false twisted yarn, and the quality is stable.

[Nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn]
The single yarn fineness of the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is preferably 0.2 to 4.0 dtex. If the single yarn fineness of the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is less than 0.2 dtex, loop fluff is likely to occur due to the single yarn fineness being too fine, and an appropriate cotton-like texture cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. Further, when the single yarn fineness of the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn exceeds 4.0 dtex, the single yarn fineness is too thick and the entanglement between the nylon filament yarn A and the nylon multifilament yarn B becomes poor, resulting in coarse loop fluff. It is not preferable because it is easy to occur and the yarn unwinding property in the weaving process is poor.

The elongation of the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is preferably 50% to 90%. If the elongation of the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is less than 50%, yarn breakage may be induced in the false twisting process. If the elongation of the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn exceeds 90%, the elongation variation at the time of false twisting tends to occur and the quality becomes unstable, which is not preferable.

[Stretching false twisting process]
The nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is subjected to draw false twisting under the conditions of a processing speed of 300 to 700 m / min, a false twist temperature of 120 to 220 ° C., and a draw ratio of 1.00 to 1.40 times. By the drawn false twisting process, the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn becomes a false twisted yarn having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 3 to 15% and a crimping rate of 5 to 30%.

The processing speed in the stretch false twisting process may be 300 to 700 m / min, preferably 350 to 500 m / min. By setting the processing speed within this range, it is possible to improve the processing operability and stabilize the quality of the processed yarn. If the processing speed is less than 300 m / min, the cost performance is lowered, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the processing speed exceeds 700 m / min, there is a problem in terms of quality such as thread breakage or poor entanglement.

In the stretch false twisting process, the draw ratio may be 1.00 to 1.40 times, preferably 1.200 to 1.300 times. If the draw ratio is less than 1.00 times, the difference in yarn length between the nylon filament yarn A and the nylon multifilament yarn B cannot be exhibited, which not only causes poor entanglement in the mixed fiber entanglement step described later, but also improves the quality. Cannot be stabilized. On the other hand, if the draw ratio exceeds 1.40 times, the processing tension becomes too high, which causes frequent fluffing or thread breakage.

In the stretch false twisting process, the false twisting temperature may be 120 to 220 ° C., preferably 150 to 200 ° C. When the false twist temperature is less than 120 ° C., the difference in heat shrinkage from the nylon drawn yarn becomes small, the crimp ratio of the composite false twist yarn becomes excessively low, and appropriate stretchability cannot be exhibited. On the other hand, when the false twist temperature exceeds 220 ° C., a partially fused portion is seen and entanglement becomes poor, and a woven or knitted fabric having a more spun-like texture cannot be obtained.

The stretch false twisting process can be performed using a known false twist applying device. The false twist applying device used in the stretch false twisting process is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include pins, friction discs, swivel nozzles, and belts.

Thus, the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn that has undergone the draw false twisting process becomes a false twisted yarn having a low thermal shrinkage and a high crimping ratio of 3 to 15% in boiling water and a crimping ratio of 5 to 30%. ..

[Mixed fiber entanglement process]
In the mixed fiber entanglement step, the false twisted yarn obtained by the drawn false twisting process and the nylon drawn yarn are mixed and entangled. Through the mixed fiber entanglement step, the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is obtained.

The mixed fiber entanglement is performed by performing fluid processing so as to satisfy the above-mentioned number of entanglements by, for example, a fluid nozzle or the like. As the fluid nozzle used in the mixed fiber entanglement step, for example, an interlaced nozzle can be used. The conditions of the mixed fiber entanglement step include, for example, an air pressure of 0.1 to 0.5 MPa, and a difference in overfeed rate between the core yarn and the sheath yarn of 3% or more, more preferably 10% or more. Threads having different shrinkage may be mixed and entangled with each other.

[Re false twisting process]
The composite processed yarn entwined with mixed fibers can be false-twisted again to make the loop size uniform, the crimping form becomes finer, and the crimping characteristics can be further improved. Depending on the application, entanglement treatment may be performed during the re-false twisting process.

<< Outline of manufacturing process >>
Next, the manufacturing process of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an embodiment of the method for producing a composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.
B is a nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn, and by using the false twist heater 2 and the friction type false twisting device 3 installed between the first supply roller 1 and the second supply roller 4, the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn is used. The yarn is drawn and false twisted.

As the friction type false twisting device 3, for example, a friction disc can be used. That is, the stretch false twisting process can be performed by the friction method. Examples of the material of the friction disc include polyurethane and ceramics. Further, the disc configuration can be appropriately selected while grasping the processing tension and the thread morphology. For example, a disc made of polyurethane is generally used. The number of discs is generally preferably 4 to 7, and the thickness of the discs is preferably 5 to 10 mm.

The false twist heater 2 may be a contact type heater or a point contact type heater. The heater processing temperature is preferably set in a range in which the yarn is not fused or the processed yarn breakage fluff does not occur. For example, when a contact type heater is adopted, the set temperature may be in the range of 150 to 220 ° C. ..

In the friction type false twisting apparatus 3, it is preferable to set the K value, which is the value obtained by dividing the untwisting tension T ₂ by the torsional tension T ₁ , in the range of 0.6 to 0.8. When the K value is less than 0.6, in addition to the increase in yarn breakage, false twisted yarn with many untwisted yarns may be obtained. On the other hand, when the K value exceeds 0.8, surging is likely to occur. Note that surging refers to a state in which the twisted twist is not unwound in the untwisting region and the twist remains.

In the friction method, the degree of twisting is generally managed not by the false twist coefficient but by the K value and the number of disks. The K value is the ratio (F2 / F1) of the untwisting tension (F2) and the twisting tension (F1), F2 is the yarn tension immediately after passing through the disc, and F1 is introduced into the disc. It refers to the thread tension immediately before the thread tension. In the friction method, twisting is applied by the rotation of the disc. Therefore, the degree of twisting is determined by the disc speed and the number of discs. However, direct control of the disk speed is not very efficient in terms of process control, so it is generally efficient to manage the K value in view of the fact that the K value fluctuates due to fluctuations in the disk speed. It is said that there is.

Next, the false twisted yarn after undergoing the draw false twisting process and the nylon drawn yarn A as a new supply yarn are guided to the fluid processing region by the third supply roller 9, and the second supply roller 4 and the first pull. The fluid processing is performed by the fluid nozzle 5 between the take rollers 6, so that the mixed fiber entanglement step is executed. As a result, the composite false plying yarn of the present invention can be obtained.

The obtained composite false plying is wound up on the package 8 by the take-up roller 7 through, for example, the first take-up roller 6.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples. Needless to say, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. The measurement method and evaluation method of each characteristic value in the examples and comparative examples of the present invention are as follows.

[KES flexural rigidity]
Using KES-FB2-AUTO-A manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., the sample is 20 cm square, and the sample is gripped by chucks at 1 cm intervals, and the curvature is 0.50 cm in the range of -2.5 to +2.5 cm ^-1 . A pure bending test was performed at a deformation rate of / sec to determine the bending rigidity. From the obtained measured values, the average of KES bending rigidity in the warp direction and the weft direction was calculated.

[KES bending recovery]
Using KES-FB2-AUTO-A manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., the sample is 20 cm square, and the sample is gripped by chucks at 1 cm intervals, and the curvature is 0.50 cm in the range of -2.5 to +2.5 cm ^-1 . A pure bending test was performed at a deformation rate of / sec to determine the bending rigidity. From the obtained measured values, the average of KES bending recovery in the warp direction and the weft direction was calculated.

[Cover Factor (CF)]
When the total warp fineness is Dw (dtex), the total weft fineness is Df (dtex), the base cloth density of the warp is Nw (book / 2.54 cm), and the base cloth density of the warp is Nf (book / 2.54 cm). , Cover factor (CF) is expressed by the following equation.
CF = (Dw × 0.9) ^1/2 × Nw + (Df × 0.9) ^1/2 × Nf

[Breathable]
The air volume (cm ³ / cm ² · sec) was measured according to JIS-L-1096: 2010 8.26.1 A method (Frazil type method).

[Metsuke]
The basis weight was measured according to JIS-L-1096: 2010 8.3.

[thickness]
The thickness was measured according to JIS-L-1096: 2010 8.4A method.

[Difference in yarn length of nylon composite processed yarns that make up woven and knitted fabrics]
Twenty nylon composite processed yarns were collected at regular intervals (collected 5 cm based on the woven or knitted fabric) from the warp or weft direction of the woven or knitted fabric that had been dyed and finished. The collected nylon composite processed yarn was disassembled and separated into single yarns of nylon filament A constituting the core yarn and nylon filament B constituting the sheath yarn. The decomposed yarn was placed on a glass plate, a small amount of glycerin was dropped, and the crimp formed from the woven or knitted structure was stretched to measure the yarn length. The average yarn length of 20 single yarns of nylon filament A was L1, and the average yarn length of 20 single yarns of nylon filament B was L2, and the yarn length difference was calculated from the following formula.
Thread length difference (%) = [(L1-L2) / L2] × 100

[Single yarn fineness and total fineness of nylon filaments A and B constituting woven and knitted fabrics]
The cross section of the dyed and finished woven and knitted fabric in the warp direction or the weft direction is observed with a scanning electron microscope (S-3400N, manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.), and the single yarn fineness in the nylon filament B constituting the nylon composite processed yarn is observed. For the single yarn fineness of the nylon filament A and the nylon filament A, the fiber diameter is measured at 10 points, and the average fiber diameter at the 10 points is defined as μ. The fiber specific gravity was set to ρ, and the single yarn fineness was calculated from the following formula. Next, the number of single yarns of the nylon filament A and the nylon filament B was set to H, respectively, and the total fineness was calculated from the following formula.
Single yarn fineness (dtex) = ρμ ² / 141.6
Total fineness (dtex) = single yarn fineness (dtex) x H

[Texture surface]
The surface texture of the fabric was visually evaluated by 10 experts by the following three-step judgment method, and ⊚ and ◯ were judged as acceptable.
◎: Dense and uniform surface feeling ○: Dense surface feeling ×: Poorly precise and uneven surface feeling

[Texture evaluation]
Regarding the evaluation of texture (harikoshi), 10 experts evaluated it by the following three-step judgment method, and ◎ and ○ were judged as acceptable.
◎: Excellent texture (tension).
◯: The texture (tension) is moderate.
×: The texture is inferior.

[Example 1]
A nylon 6 / nylon 66 copolymer having a relative viscosity of 2.77 and a copolymerization ratio of 85/15 is prepared at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. by a normal spinning machine using a round base with 10 holes. Melt discharge. After refueling and entanglement, it is taken up by a non-heated roller, stretched 1.5 times between it and a heated roller at 170 ° C., and wound at a winding speed of 4000 m / min. A drawn yarn was obtained, and this was used as a core yarn side supply yarn.

As the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn, a nylon filament yarn having an elongation of 60% and a single yarn fineness of 1.57 dtex (41T-26) was used, false twisted according to the process shown in FIG. 1, and then entangled with the core yarn. Then, a composite false twisted yarn was obtained. At that time, the processing speed is 550 m / min, the draw ratio of the sheath yarn is 1.22 times, the false twist temperature is 170 ° C., the false twist number is 3400 t / m, the overfeed rate of the core yarn is 2%, and the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn. Was set to 12%.

Further, using the above composite false plying machine, a double-sided smooth knitted fabric having a well density of 53.3 w / 2.54 cm, a course density of 55.3 c / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 222 g / m ² is created by a 40 G circular knitting machine. bottom. The composite false twisted yarn was knitted without any problem in unwinding.
Further, after normal nylon scouring was performed on the raw machine, dyeing was performed at 98 ° C.
After dyeing, loop fluff of yarn appeared on the surface of the knitted fabric, and a knit fabric with a good appearance (surface feeling) and texture and a windproof effect was obtained. Each characteristic value of the knitted fabric of Example 1 is shown in Table 1 below.

[Example 2]
A nylon 6 / nylon 66 copolymer having a relative viscosity of 2.77 and a copolymerization ratio of 85/15 is prepared at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. by a normal spinning machine using a round base with 10 holes. Melt discharge. After refueling and entanglement, it is taken up by a non-heated roller, stretched 1.5 times between it and a heated roller at 170 ° C., and wound at a winding speed of 4000 m / min. A drawn yarn was obtained, and this was used as a core yarn side supply yarn.

As a nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn, the elongation is 60% and the single yarn fineness is 0.92dtex (44T-4).
Using the nylon filament yarn of 8), false twisting was performed according to the process shown in FIG. 1, and then entangled and composited with the core yarn to obtain a composite false twisted yarn. At that time, the processing speed is 550 m / min, the draw ratio of the sheath yarn is 1.22 times, the false twist temperature is 170 ° C., the false twist number is 3400 t / m, the overfeed rate of the core yarn is 2%, and the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn. Was set to 12%.

Subsequently, using a WJ machine, a plain woven fabric was prepared using N (66) 44T34 false twisted yarn for the warp and the same processing for the weft (N (6) / N (66) 70T58 composite yarn).
Further, after normal nylon scouring was performed on the raw machine, dyeing was performed at 98 ° C.
The dyed finish has a warp density of 223 lines / 25.4 mm, a weft density of 112 lines / 25.4 mm, a basis weight of 90 g / m ² , and a draft of 3.4 cm ³ / cm ² / sec. We obtained woven fabrics that are both good and have a windproof effect. Each characteristic value of the woven fabric of Example 2 is shown in Table 1 below.

[Comparative Example 1]
A nylon 6 / nylon 66 copolymer having a relative viscosity of 2.77 and a copolymerization ratio of 85/15 is prepared at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. by a normal spinning machine using a round-shaped, 68-hole base. Melt discharge. After refueling and entanglement, it is taken up by a non-heating roller, stretched 1.5 times between it and a heating roller at 170 ° C, and wound at a winding speed of 4000 m / min. A drawn yarn was obtained.

The nylon filament yarn was used for the core yarn and the sheath yarn, respectively, and subjected to Taslan processing to obtain a composite false twist yarn. At that time, the overfeed rate of the core yarn was set to 6%, and the overfeed ratio of the sheath yarn was set to 20%.

Further, using the above composite false plying machine, a double-sided smooth knitted fabric having a well density of 59w / 2.54cm, a course density of 75c / 2.54cm, and a basis weight of 260g / ^m2 was prepared by a 40G circular knitting machine. The composite false twisted yarn was knitted without any problem in unwinding.
Further, after normal nylon scouring was performed on the raw machine, dyeing was performed at 98 ° C.
After dyeing, loop fluff of yarn appeared on the surface of the knitted fabric, and a knit fabric having a good texture but a poor surface texture was obtained. Each characteristic value of the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 is shown in Table 1 below.

[Comparative Example 2]
In the same manufacturing method as in Example 1, only the fineness and the number of filaments are changed, and as the nylon highly oriented undrawn yarn, a nylon filament yarn having an elongation of 60% and a single yarn fineness of 1.30 dtex (26T-20) is used as a twin yarn. A false twisted yarn was obtained. At that time, the processing speed was set to 500 m / min, the false twist temperature was set to 180 ° C., and the false twist number was set to 3400 t / m.

Subsequently, using a WJ machine, a plain woven fabric using N (66) W44T34 false twisted yarn for the warp and N (66) W45T40 composite yarn for the weft was prepared.
After normal nylon scouring was performed on the raw machine, dyeing was performed at 98 ° C. The dyed finish has a warp density of 157 lines / 25.4 mm, a weft density of 152 lines / 25.4 mm, a basis weight of 64 g / m ² , and a draft of 6.1 cm ³ / cm ² / sec, and the surface has a good feeling of fineness. However, I got a woven fabric with a poor texture. Each characteristic value of the woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 is shown in Table 1 below.

1 1st supply roller 2 False twist heater 3 Friction type false twist device 4 2nd supply roller 5 Fluid nozzle 6 1st take-up roller 7 Wind-up roller 8 Package 9 3rd supply roller

Claims (7)

It is a woven or knitted fabric composed of nylon filament, and is characterized in that the ratio of KES bending rigidity to the fabric thickness of the woven or knitted fabric is 1.5 or more, and the ratio of KES bending recovery to the fabric thickness is 1.8 or more. Woven knitting. Nylon filaments decomposed from the woven or knitted fabric have a total fineness of 8.0 dtex or more and 150 dtex or less, a single yarn fineness of 0.5 dtex or more and 8.0 dtex or less, and a total fineness of 8.0 tex or more and 350 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a composite processed yarn composed of a nylon filament B having a thickness of 0.2 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less is used. The composite processed yarn is characterized in that the nylon filament A is the core portion, the nylon filament B is the sheath portion, the yarn length difference is 15% or more, and the composite processed yarn has substantially loop fluff. The woven and knitted fabric according to claim 2. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the composite processed yarn uses a composite processed yarn that satisfies the following (1), (2), and (3).
(1) Nylon filament A is made of a copolymer of nylon 6 and nylon 66.
(2) The nylon 6 repeating unit of the nylon filament A is 70 to 98% by weight, and the nylon 66 repeating unit is 2 to 30% by weight.
(3) The weight ratio (A / B) of the nylon filament A and the nylon filament B is 30/70 to 70/30. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the ratio of the nylon filament to the woven or knitted fabric is 20 to 100% by weight. The knit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which satisfies the following formula (4).
(4) 50 ≤ AP / M ≤ 2000
AP indicates the air permeability (cm ³ / cm ² · sec), M indicates the basis weight (g / cm ² ), AP is 3 to 30 cm ³ / cm ² · sec, and M is 0.015 ~. It is 0.05 g / cm ² . The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the woven fabric satisfies the following formula (5).
(5) 0.35 × 10 ^-4 ≤ AP / CF ≤ 5 × 10 ^-2
AP indicates the air permeability (cm ³ / cm ² · sec), CF indicates the cover factor, AP is 0.1 to 10 cm ³ / cm ² · sec, and CF is 1300 to 5000.

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