JPS6235494B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to synthetic multifilament yarns having the feel of natural fibers, especially eyelid linen or fine worsted yarns. Many attempts have been made to create so-called spun-like yarns and spun-like woven and knitted fabrics, which are similar to spun yarns of natural fibers such as wool, hemp, and cotton, using synthetic multifilament yarns. However, the advantage of natural fibers, especially wool and linen, is that they are soft to the touch, but when used as a substrate, they have a dry feel with a squeaky, stiff feel, and are flexible against bending. Although it has elasticity and resilience, it has a bulky bulge due to fluff and crimping, and has a tight structure and feel due to twisting, and has a strong luster.
It has a sense of opacity that is unique to spans, and while it has a homogeneous and high-quality fabric surface on the macroscopic level, it has a natural appearance as an extremely uneven aggregate on the microscopic level. There is also a point of combination, and if you try to achieve these with synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, which is based on homogeneity,
You will run into technical contradictions at various points. Specifically, techniques such as temporary twisting, push crimping, mixed fibers with different shrinkage rates, and fluid processing can give a fluffy feel and fullness, but they can also cause a decrease in tension and elasticity. There is no tightness or tightness. A filament yarn with a thin single filament fineness will have a soft touch but no tension or stiffness, while a thick filament yarn will have the opposite tendency. When applying pliability using fusion processing technology, the softness of the surface touch disappears, and although tension is created, resilience is lost and wrinkle resistance is also reduced. Furthermore, methods have been proposed to combine the mixed fiber technology with different fineness fibers and the various technologies mentioned above, but a simple combination of technologies cannot eliminate the monotony peculiar to synthetic fibers, and a fundamental solution has not been reached. do not have. The present inventors have used eyelid linen, a typical spring/summer material, and high-grade wool, a typical autumn/winter material, as fibers, yarns, and other excellent materials among natural fibers.
We conducted a thorough analysis at each level of the fabric, elucidated the basic properties of both, and worked diligently to create these properties in synthetic fiber multifilament, resulting in the present invention. That is, the purpose of the present invention is to obtain a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn having the basic characteristics of natural fiber spun yarn such as eyelid linen and high-grade wool, and a woven or knitted fabric using the same. 1) Soft and dry surface touch (2) Flexible and resilient bending properties (3) Bulky and tight thread and fabric structure (4) Shiny and opaque appearance ( 5) Our objective is to propose synthetic fiber multifilament yarns that have contradictory properties such as high quality and natural uneven texture, and woven and knitted fabrics using the same. The present invention aims to achieve the above object and has the following configuration. That is, a very thick multifilament yarn with a single filament fineness of 6 denier or more and an irregular cross section with protrusions is mainly arranged as a core yarn, while an extremely fine multifilament yarn with a single filament fineness of 1.5 denier or less is mainly arranged as a sheath yarn. It is a synthetic fiber spunlike processed yarn characterized in that the extremely thick multifilament yarn and the extremely fine multifilament yarn are intertwined with each other. It is characterized by containing thick and thin yarn in part or all of the yarn or sheath yarn, and furthermore, a part of the intertwined part is a knotted yarn, and there is a difference in thickness in the yarn length direction. It is characterized by this. In the present invention, the ultra-thick multifilament yarn is mainly arranged as a core yarn, the ultra-fine multifilament yarn is mainly arranged as a sheath yarn, and these two yarns are intertwined. Yarn fineness ratio, total fineness ratio,
The state of entanglement is a very important factor in achieving the purpose of the present invention. The present invention will be explained in more detail below. First, the extra-thick multifilament yarn with irregular cross-section and protrusions, which will serve as the core yarn, is composed of at least two filaments, has a diameter of at least 6 denier (d), more preferably 9 denier (d) or more, and has a diameter of 20 denier (d) or more.
less than 10% and forms all or part of the core yarn.
In order to achieve the desired texture of the present invention, it is preferable that the denier ratio of the extra-thick multifilament yarn in the core yarn is 20% or more and 70% or less of the total core yarn. Of course, all of the core yarns can be made of extra-thick multi-filament yarn, but in order to achieve both tension and stiffness, appropriate flexibility, soft touch and a supple feel, it is best to mix fibers with filament yarns that have a lower fineness than extra-thick filament yarns. That is why it is desirable. Further, as a result of various studies regarding the single yarn fineness of the extra-thick filament yarn, it was found that the texture of the present invention could not be obtained at a yarn fineness of less than 6 d, no matter how high the ratio of the core yarn was. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness is 20d or more, the tension and stiffness become high, but not only does it result in a texture that deviates from the range of tension, stiffness, and stiffness of linen or worsted, which is the aim of the present invention, but it also creates a sheath yarn. It was found that irritation caused by the color difference between the two cannot be avoided. In addition, the cross-sectional shape of the extra-thick filament yarn of the present invention is one of the important points of the invention, and the effect as an extra-thick filament yarn, that is, the cross-sectional shape of the ultra-thick filament yarn, when made into a woven or knitted fabric, without impairing its high rigidity. The interlocking of the filaments with the yarn gives it the feel, touch, and luster of natural fibers. FIG. 6 is a diagram illustrating an example of a spunlike processed yarn according to the present invention, and is a tracing of an enlarged microscopic photograph of a cross section of the yarn. The example shown in this figure uses an H-shaped cross-section yarn of 75 denier-12 filaments (single yarn fineness 6.25 denier) as an extra-thick multifilament yarn with an irregular cross-section and a 100-denier-98 filament yarn as an ultra-fine multifilament yarn.
It uses filament (single yarn fineness 1.04 denier) round cross-section yarn. In addition, FIG. 7 is a tracing of an enlarged photograph of the side profile of the yarn of the present invention illustrated in FIG.
This figure shows a part of a real thread in the length direction, and explains the state in which the thread has a clear difference in thickness in the length direction. In addition, in the yarn of the present invention, the intertwining form and yarn appearance of the intertwined portions are basically the same as those of conventionally known intertwined yarns. In the present invention, a cross-sectional shape with protrusions refers to a cross-sectional shape in which there are at least two or more convex angles in the fiber cross section, and a concave angle between adjacent convex angles. In other words, there are at least two protrusions having a pointed shape, and the cross-sectional shape has a concave surface between adjacent protrusions. In the yarn of the present invention, the protrusion may be partially bent in the final yarn, such as a part of the yarn in the longitudinal direction. It is. In the present invention, this cross-sectional shape having convex angles and concave angles plays a very important role. First, although the convex angle is non-fused, it has rough frictional properties and contributes to the dry feel of the substrate. In addition, due to the coexistence of convex angles and concave angles, it has higher bending rigidity than a circular cross section for the same single yarn fineness, contributing to the tension of the fabric. Furthermore, the concave angle increases the amount of diffuse reflection within the single fiber for incident light, giving it a dull luster even though it is a transparent substrate.
It increases the apparent cover factor and gives a visually spun-like appearance. Furthermore, irritation due to differences in dyeing with the sheath components is also reduced. In the case of the present invention, it refers to an extra-thick filament yarn that, when viewed in any cross section, includes at least one or more irregularly shaped cross-sectional portions having the protrusions. As a result of various studies regarding the cross-sectional shape, we found that it was cross-shaped,
It has been found that those with relatively sharp protrusions such as V-shapes, U-shapes, H-shapes, and multilobed shapes of three or more leaves are preferred, with cross-shapes and octlobal shapes being particularly preferred. Also,
Sharp protrusions (convex angles) such as single-character shapes, triangles, and squares
It has been found that for a cross-sectional shape that does not have concave angles, the texture and luster of the present invention cannot be obtained, although the texture and luster of the present invention can be obtained. Specifically, an example of the present invention regarding an irregular cross section is shown in Figure 1.
In addition, examples other than the present invention are illustrated in FIG. On the other hand, ultrafine multifilament yarn, which is mainly used as a sheath yarn, has a single yarn fineness of at least 1.5 d or less, more preferably 1.1 d or less, and 0.5 d or more, in order to provide softness similar to natural fibers against light surface pressure. It is made of ultra-fine filaments that are intertwined with each other using an extra-thick multifilament yarn as the core yarn. The single yarn fineness ratio of the very thick filament to the very thin filament is 4 times or more in order to achieve the purpose of the present invention, that is, to realize the texture, touch, and luster of natural fibers, especially eyelid linen and worsted wool woven and knitted materials. Preferably, it is 6 times or more. In general, dyeing irritation due to differences in single yarn fineness becomes non-negligible when the single yarn fineness ratio is 1:10 or more when dyeing in the same bath. Because of the cross-sectional shape of the extra-thick multifilament yarn, there is a lot of scattered light, so the deep dyeing effect is less.
No irritation occurs even when the single yarn fineness ratio is around 1:20. Furthermore, in order to maintain glossiness, the ultrafine filament yarn needs to have as much transparency as possible as a substrate, and therefore it is desirable that it does not contain opacifying components such as TiO ₂ . Also, even if it contains
It is preferably 0.2% by weight or less. In the case of SiO ₂ particles that do not relatively impair transparency, the content is preferably 0.5% by weight or less. Further, for the same reason, the cross-sectional shape of the ultrafine multifilament yarn, which will mainly serve as the sheath yarn, is preferably round, flat, polygonal, or multilobed with three or five lobes, and complex shapes that cause large diffused reflection are not preferable. However, by diversifying or increasing the number of leaves within a range that does not impair the glossiness, a soft and delicate surface touch can be obtained. Further, in order to obtain a more spun-like touch and appearance, some or all of the filament yarns of the sheath yarn may be partially cut to become fluffy. Regarding the third point, entanglement, the softness of the present invention has a dry surface touch, flexibility,
In addition, in order to impart resilient bending properties, the extra-thick filament yarn and extra-fine filament yarn partially interlock with each other against lateral pressure or bending pressure, and sometimes they separate, and the ultra-fine multi-filament yarn It is necessary that the fibers are mixed with each other so that they mainly become sheath threads, and that the thick filaments with protrusions of the core threads are partially exposed while intertwining so that the two do not separate completely. Here, mixed refers to a state where both are mixed,
There may be a difference in yarn length between the two, or the sheath yarn may be partially wound in an alternately twisted manner, or may be a knotted yarn, or may form a loop. Furthermore, any type of entanglement may be used, such as fluid interlace, loop type entanglement, and electrostatic opening. If there is no entanglement at all, not only will the passability in higher-order processes be impaired, but also the migration of the core yarn and sheath yarn will be poor, so that the spunlike yarn of the present invention cannot be obtained. The degree of confounding is preferably 5 to 300 as determined by the measurement method described below. Synthetic fiber multifilament yarns used include polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic, polyolefin, acetate, etc.
Alternatively, they can be used in combination. Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention refers to a woven or knitted fabric in which the spunlike yarn of the present invention is used as it is or in combination with other yarns for all or part of the woven or knitted fabric. The measurement of the degree of confounding in the present invention is described in US Patent No.
The method is carried out according to the specification of No. 3290932. The outline is shown below. In the apparatus shown in FIG. 3, the sample 1 is unwound by a take-up roller 5 and wound around a waist roller 6. Thread 1cm/
sec., the magnetic tension applying device 2 is adjusted to set the tension between the tension applying device 2 and the take-up roller 5 to the initial tension. The initial tension is denier x 0.2 g, and is detected by a tension meter 4 fixedly provided between the tension applying device 2 and the take-up roller 5. After setting the initial tension, stop running the thread and set the fourth tension.
As shown in the figure, a measuring needle 3 is inserted at a position where the thread is roughly divided into two parts. Then, when the thread is run again at 1 cm/sec., the needle is caught at the interlacing point 7, and the tension between the needle 4 and the take-up roller 5 is increased. Above, the tension value is [initial tension + (single yarn denier of ultra-fine filament) x 1
g], the take-up roller 5 is set to stop, and the travel distance l _i (mm) of the thread from when the needle is inserted until it stops again is read from the rotation angle of the take-up roller 5. Repeat the same operation 40 times, and calculate the degree of confounding using the following formula. The measurement is performed three times and the average value is displayed. The degree of entanglement in the present invention was measured using an entanglement tester (model R2040) manufactured by RHTHSCHILD based on the above principle. The present invention can achieve the object of the present invention as a comprehensive effect by using the three elements of the extra-thick multifilament yarn, the extra-fine filament yarn, and their entanglement, as detailed above. That is, first, the ultra-fine multifilament yarns become intertwined to form a sheath component, so there is almost no resistance to extremely light surface lateral pressure, resulting in a soft surface touch like feathers, but the lateral pressure increases slightly. This causes friction between the extra-fine multi-filament yarn and the extra-thick multi-filament yarn, resulting in a delicate squeak feeling, and when the lateral pressure is further increased, coarse friction occurs between the extra-thick multi-filament yarns, giving the appearance of pliability. As a result, a complex and tasteful texture with a soft yet dry feel is obtained. This corresponds to the tactile sensation produced by the fluff and scale of fine-grained fibers such as wool and linen, and the twisting and rough side structures of thick-fibers. Next, regarding bending, in the low curvature region, there is a degree of freedom between the ultra-fine multifilament yarn and the thick multifilament yarn with this level of entanglement. It is only filled between the gaps and between the protrusions of the extra-thick filament yarn, and hardly contributes to bending stress. Therefore, the bending stress mainly depends on the stress generated by the extremely thick multifilament yarn, which is a small component in terms of structure, and has soft bending characteristics within a moderate tension range. However, in the high curvature region, the combined bending stress and repulsion of the ultra-fine and thick multifilament yarns results in very stiff and resilient bending properties. This behavior is similar to the behavior of a bundle of split bamboo when it is bent, and it also corresponds to the bending properties of wool and eyelid linen, which have a wide range of fineness. In addition, the ultra-fine multifilament yarn is moderately intertwined with the thick multi-filament yarn and filled into the gaps, resulting in a bulky yet tight structure. Furthermore, regarding surface gloss properties, both ultra-fine multifilament yarn and extra-thick multifilament yarn have transparent substrates and have high reflective properties, and while ultra-fine multifilament yarn is glossy, it has a large specific surface area due to its fineness. Because the directionality is disturbed by entanglement, it is easy to emit scattered light,
In addition, the extra-thick multifilament yarn has a complicated cross-sectional shape, which causes a large amount of diffused reflection. Therefore, while it has a specular reflection gloss on the surface, complex light interference occurs between the ultra-fine multifilament yarn of the sheath component and the extra-thick multifilament yarn of the core component, resulting in an internally opaque dull surface. Becomes shiny.
In addition, because the core component is thick, it has high color development and exhibits a very deep color tone. Although wool and eyelid linen are spun yarns and have a dull luster at first glance, they are very transparent materials that can be used as substrates, which is consistent with the gist of the present invention. Furthermore, the spun-like processed yarn of the present invention, which is processed using Thick and Thin yarn for the core yarn and sheath yarn, has not only the appearance unevenness and taste due to the uneven thickness and the difference in shade of dyeing, which are unique to Thick and Thin yarn, but also the texture. However, in combination with the yarn structure of the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric that is more spun-like and has liveliness can be obtained. In addition, the spun-like processed yarn of the present invention, which is processed so that the intertwined parts mainly become knotted threads, has a spun-like, especially eyelid, linen-like texture, in addition to the difference in thickness between the knotted threads and other parts, as well as the strong luster of the knotted threads. It shows a typical appearance. In addition, if the length of the knotted yarn part is too short, when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it will look like a thread, and the quality will be poor. In order to obtain a high-quality woven or knitted fabric, the length of the knotted yarn portion is preferably 1 cm or more, more preferably 2 cm or more. The present invention will be specifically explained below using Examples. Example 1 A Processing of spun-like yarn The core yarn was polyester multifilament yarn 50D-16F (a mixed fiber yarn of different fineness consisting of two 6.8d eight-lobed cross-section extra-thick filament yarns and 14 2.3d round-section filament yarns). Polyester multifilament yarn 75D-72F (triangular cross section, _{TiO 2}
was processed using the processing equipment shown in Fig. 5 under the following conditions. Processing speed: 150 m/min (surface speed of take-up roller) Overfeed rate (OFR): Core yarn 2%, sheath yarn 12% Liquid processing nozzle: Strongly entangled nozzle (prototype) Air pressure: 3.5 Kg/cm Rotation of ² oscillators Number: 950r.pm The obtained yarn has a degree of entanglement of 184 and a length of 1m in the yarn axis direction.
It was a spun-like yarn with an average of 7.5 knotted yarns per yarn, with multifilament yarns including extra-thick filament yarns serving as core yarns, and ultra-fine multifilament yarns mainly serving as sheath yarns (total denier 141D, boiling water shrinkage rate). 4.4%). The overfeed rate (OFR, %) was calculated as follows. OFR (%) = FR-DR/DR×100 However, FR: Surface speed of feed roller 11 or 12 DR: Surface speed of take-up roller 15 B Weaving evaluation For the spunlike yarn of the present invention obtained in A above
It was given an additional twist of 300T/M, woven into a plain weave using warp and weft threads, and then finished according to the following conditions. Gray fabric: (density: book/in, vertical 67, horizontal 58) Scouring: 98℃ x 5 min “Sundetsudo” G-29 [nonionic activator,
Sanyo Chemical Industries Co., Ltd.] Soda ash 2g each/addition Intermediate set: 180℃ x 2min Alkali weight loss processing: 98℃ x 50min (reduction rate: 12%) Caustic soda 30g/Dyeing (immersion dyeing): 130℃ x 60min. (Firefly) Finishing set: 150℃ x 2 min. The resulting fabric has a glossy appearance and is a spun-like fabric with a slubby feel, especially the strong tension and soft waist and touch of an eyelid linen fabric. , and it has become a fabric with the characteristic wrinkles of linen (finish density: book/in,
Vertical 76, horizontal 65, area weight 86g/m2 ⁾ . Also, sand the resulting fabric with sandpaper (#180)
When a light buffing process was carried out, only the ultra-fine threads, which were mainly sheath threads, became fluffy, resulting in a fabric that had the softness and suppleness of the touch, as well as tension and elasticity, just like a linen fabric (shearing). The anti-pilling property of this fabric was tested according to the JIS L 1076A method (method using an ICI type tester) and was found to be grade 4 (test 10HR), which was at a completely acceptable level. Furthermore, the spunlike yarn obtained above was knitted into a double knit (24G, interlock).
Finished under normal conditions. The resulting knitted fabric has tension and elasticity, and is a spun-like knitted fabric with a high-quality worsted wool feel that combines the softness and suppleness of tatsuchi. Example 2 and Comparative Example Various filament yarns were combined and yarn processed using the apparatus shown in FIG. 5 (however, the vibrator 13 was not used). In addition, none of the filament yarns used had a matting agent (TiO ₂ ) added thereto. Taffeta was woven using each processed yarn thus obtained and finished under the same conditions as in Example 1. The alkali weight loss rate was approximately 12% in both cases. The raw yarn combination, yarn processing conditions, yarn quality of each processed yarn, product characteristics, etc. are as shown in Table 1. Product characteristic evaluation was conducted under the following conditions. (1) Bending work: 3cm x 6 pieces of fabric vertically and horizontally
Cut the fabric into strips (6 cm) and fix the ends of the long sides (6 cm) with thin double-sided tape so that the gap between the folding points on the inside of the fabric is
Constant compression speed (5mm/min) until 0.1mm
It is expressed as the amount of bending work when compressed to a high curvature. (2) Thickness, compression amount, compression ratio: When applying an initial load (50 g/cm ² ) and constant load (300 g/cm ² ) using a compression elasticity testing machine [manufactured by Maeda Seiki Co., Ltd.] The thickness, S ₀ and S of each were measured and determined as follows. Thickness: S ₀ (mm) Compression amount: S ₀ -S (mm) Compression rate: S ₀ -S/S100 (%) (3) Comparative gloss: 3D variable angle photometer JSG-21 (manufactured by Jonan Seisakusho) ) under the following conditions. Light source: 12V tungsten lamp Light projection slit: 4.8φ Projection angle: 45° Receiving angle: 45° (specular gloss) and 0° (diffuse gloss) Reflectance (receiving angle 45°) using a magnesium oxide white plate as a standard white plate ) was adjusted so that it was 100%. The contrast gloss was calculated as follows. Comparative gloss = Diffuse gloss / Specular gloss (4) Frequency of knotted threads: The knotted threads present in 10 m of the obtained processed yarn were counted (repeated 3 times, expressed as average). (Note) Explanation of Table 1 Single yarn fineness ratio: Ratio of extra-thick filament denier to extra-fine filament denier. (A) Extra-thick filament in the core yarn *1: Except for the extra-thick filament in the core yarn, other filament yarns are 48D-15F round cross-section yarn. Also,
Both the core yarn and sheath yarn are polyester filament yarns. *2: Same as Example 1 except for OFR. Vibrator 13 is not used. *3: Core yarn (101D) is simultaneously spun at high speed (2950
The POY obtained by the following method (m/min) was subjected to thick-and-thin yarn drawing under the following conditions. Stretching speed: 505 m/min Stretching pin: 22φ (1 turn) Stretching temperature: 85°C Stretching ratio: 1.38 times *4: Processing No. 8 used the same sheath yarn as the core yarn. *5: Comparative example sensory evaluation judgment ◎ Very good 〇 Good × Poor

【table】

[Table] As shown in Table-1, processing No. 1 to 4 and 7
The fabric was made according to the present invention and exhibited a spun-like appearance, texture, and touch, as well as softness, suppleness, and luster. In particular, No. 4, which uses thick-and-thin yarn, has a fabric with drape and liveliness in the tension and waist. In addition, No. 4 and No. 7, which used five-lobed and three-lobed cross-section yarns as sheath yarns, had an excellent texture with a soft yet squeaky feel. In addition, No. 5, 6, and No. 8 to 10 are comparative examples of the present invention, and No. 5 has a round cross section of the extra-thick filament yarn used as the core yarn, so there is some tension and stiffness, but it is a little disappointing. It also lacked flexibility when bending, resulting in a mediocre texture. No. 6 has a high denier filament yarn, so it has good elasticity but lacks softness and has a rough and hard texture. No. 8 had too much tension and became stiff and rough. No. 9 was extremely soft, but lacked firmness, waist, and suppleness, giving it a completely uninteresting texture. No. 10 had no entanglement, so the core yarn and sheath yarn were separated, making it difficult to weave and making it unusable.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 shows an example of the cross-sectional shape of the preferred extra-thick filament yarn of the present invention. Moreover, FIG. 2 shows an example of a cross-sectional shape that is not the present invention. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing an apparatus for measuring the degree of entanglement. FIG. 4 is an enlarged view of the needle portion 3 in FIG. 3. FIG. 5 is an example of a schematic diagram of a yarn processing device for obtaining spunlike yarn of the present invention. FIG. 6 is a diagram illustrating an example of a spunlike processed yarn according to the present invention, and is a tracing of an enlarged microscopic photograph of a cross section of the yarn. In addition, FIG. 7 is a tracing of an enlarged photograph of the side profile of the yarn of the present invention illustrated in FIG. 6,
This explains a state in which there is a difference in thickness in the yarn length direction. 1: Sample (processed yarn), 2: Tension adding device, 3:
Needle, 4: Tension meter, 5: Take-up roller, 6: Waist roller, 7: Interlacing section, 8: Multifilament yarn including extra-thick filament, 9: Extra-fine multifilament yarn, 10: Guide, 11: Delivery roller for core yarn , 12: Delivery roller for sheath yarn, 13:
Vibrator, 14: Fluid processing nozzle, 15: Take-up roller, 16: Winder.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Extra-thick multifilament yarns with a single yarn fineness of 6 denier or more and irregular cross-sections with protrusions are mainly arranged as core yarns, while ultra-fine multifilament yarns with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less are mainly arranged as core yarns. A synthetic fiber spunlike processed yarn arranged as a sheath yarn, and characterized in that the extremely thick multifilament yarn and the extremely fine multifilament yarn are intertwined with each other. 2. The synthetic fiber spunlike processed yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that part or all of the core yarn and sheath yarn contain thick-and-thin yarn. 3. The synthetic fiber spunlike processed yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a part of the intertwined portion is a knotted yarn and has a difference in thickness in the yarn length direction.