JPS62110934A - Different finness blended special irregular yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to a special uneven yarn mixed with different finenesses that gives woven or knitted fabrics an excellent dry feel and fluffy feel.

(Conventional technology) The disadvantages of conventional 9 synthetic fibers, such as sliminess, sagging feeling, and
Attempts have been made to remove lacquer, etc., and to make the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn irregular in order to give it a dry and fluffy feel, or to vary the fineness of the single yarn in order to give it a dry and light feel. Various things have been done.

For example, these monofilament yarns with irregular cross-sections, such as triangular cross-sections or cross-sections with star-like protrusions, have been put into practical use as having luster and a non-slimy texture that cannot be obtained with conventional synthetic fibers. Ta.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, when yarns made of these irregular cross-section yarns are made into woven or knitted fabrics without any devising, the fineness or heat shrinkage characteristics between single yarns or in the length direction of the yarns Since it is uniform, it has the disadvantage of lacking a feeling of fullness, and although it can remove the slimy feeling to some extent, it does not have a dry feeling.

Also, for the irregular cross-section yarn or round cross-section yarn listed above, the single yarn fineness between the two yarns can be made different! There have also been proposed mixed fiber yarns of different fineness, which give the iJW material firmness, stiffness, and softness, or mixed fiber yarns of different shrinkage, which are a mixture of single yarns with different heat shrinkage rates.

The fluffiness of woven or knitted fabrics using these mixed yarns of different fineness or mixed yarns of different shrinkage is somewhat improved, and in particular, the fineness of the single yarns is different, and the yarns of different fineness and shrinkage are mixed with different shrinkage. When the yarn is heat-treated after being made into a woven or knitted fabric, it has good firmness, stiffness, and softness due to the combined effect of loops that occur continuously or intermittently due to the difference in yarn length, and it also has good firmness, stiffness, and softness. This creates a texture similar to that of natural fibers.

Many such proposals have been made regarding high value-added silk-like gold threads, and are introduced, for example, in the embodiments of Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-22586 or Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 161-63 of 1982.

However, in all of these methods, the fineness of single yarns is made different between groups of yarns with different shrinkage rates, and since the fineness of single yarns within a single system is uniform without any change, Compared to woven and knitted fabrics.

Although the texture is quite similar, it is still a synthetic fiber.

The following may be the reason. In other words, when heat treatment is applied after making these differentially shrinkable mixed yarns into woven or knitted fabrics, the difference in shrinkage causes loops to be formed continuously or intermittently in the longitudinal direction of the low-shrinkage component, giving the woven or knitted fabric a soft feel or This creates a swelling effect. Therefore, since the surface of the woven or knitted material is dominated by low shrinkage components,
The cross-sectional shape or fineness of the single yarns constituting the low-shrinkage component has an extremely large effect on the texture of woven or knitted fabrics.

By the way, if you follow the method described in the above publication.

When it is desired to impart firmness, firmness, and even a dry feel to woven or knitted fabrics, a relatively thick yarn is used as the single yarn with low shrinkage components, but in this case, the desired firmness and firmness are achieved.

Although an IR knitted fabric with a dry feel can be obtained, since the single yarn fineness of the low shrinkage component is thick yarn, it exhibits a rigid texture lacking drapability or soft feel.

On the other hand, in order to obtain an m-knitted fabric with drapability or a soft feel, if a single yarn with a low shrinkage component is made into a fine-grained yarn,
A phenomenon in which the drapability or soft feel becomes too strong after 8 laps, resulting in firmness, firmness (lack), and even a slimy woven or knitted fabric, resulting in a phenomenon in which when some performance is satisfied, other performance deteriorates. In other words, it has the drapability or soft feel characteristic of natural silk and wool.

Woven and knitted fabrics that have a crisp, firm, and dry feel have not been able to be produced using synthetic fibers.

In view of these circumstances, the present invention has been developed to provide Ht that has a gentle dry feeling, a lightweight feeling, a full feeling, and a rich texture.
'The purpose is to provide a yarn suitable for LH products.

(Means for Solving the Problems) In order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with excellent dryness and fluffiness, the inventors of the present invention focused on the properties of single yarns, and as a result, they found that they The yarn is made of mixed fineness yarns, the mixing ratio of the large fineness component and the fine fineness component is selected appropriately, and furthermore, at least a part of the thick yarn has thick and fine lines in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The firmness and firmness mentioned earlier,
We have discovered that it is possible to obtain a yarn that satisfies the contradictory properties of dry feel, drapability, soft feel, and fluffy feel, leading to the present invention.

In other words, 3 the present invention includes 20% by weight or more of thick yarns with a single yarn fineness of 3 denier or more, 2 5% by weight or more of fine yarns with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less, and at least the above thick yarns. The gist is a special uneven yarn with mixed fibers of different fineness, which is characterized in that a part of the yarn has thicker parts in the longitudinal direction.

In the present invention, the single yarn of the mixed special uneven yarn of different fineness is composed of a thick yarn of 3 denier or more, preferably 5 to 7 deniers, and a fine yarn of 1.5 denier or less. It is necessary that the In other words, the presence of thick yarn gives it a firm, firm, or dry feel, while the presence of fine yarn gives it a soft feel.
A woven or knitted fabric having a sense of fullness or drapability can be obtained.

On the other hand, if the fineness of the 2-thick yarn is less than 3 denier, the cross-sectional area of the single yarn is small, so it is difficult to expect a repulsive force against lateral force applied to the single yarn, bending, or twisting, resulting in a decrease in stiffness and firmness. And even more.

Since the difference in fineness from the fineness yarn is small, the texture is lost and the resulting ¥IA knitted fabric has a slimy feel, which is not preferable.

In addition, in the single yarn fineness composition of the special uneven yarn mixed with different finenesses in the present invention, thick yarns exist at 20% or more, and at the same time, in order to impart a soft feel, the single yarn fineness is 1.5 denier or less. The fineness yarn must be present in an amount of 5% by weight or more. In the present invention, when the composition ratio of the thick yarn is less than 20% by weight, a dry feeling is produced.

It lacks a sense of fullness, which is not desirable. Also.

When the amount of fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less is less than 5% by weight, the influence of the thick yarn becomes stronger.

The result is a woven or knitted fabric that lacks a soft feel and has some stiffness.

I still don't like it. In the present invention, the mixing ratio of the thick yarn and fine yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is within the above range, and can be changed as appropriate depending on the desired texture.

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary that the single yarn constituting part or all of the thick yarn has a thick part in which large fineness parts and fine fineness parts are alternately present in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. That is, the existence of fineness single yarns of 1.5 deniers or less and large fineness single yarns of 3 deniers or more that constitute the yarn causes fineness unevenness in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn, and Due to the coexistence of a thick part and a fine part in the direction,
It is composed of single yarns or sections with different finenesses in the cross section and even in the longitudinal direction.

When such a yarn is used to make a woven or knitted fabric, the surface of the woven or knitted fabric has a rich unevenness and an extremely dry feel.

Furthermore, due to the difference in fineness between the large fineness portion and the fine fineness portion that coexist in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, when the woven or knitted fabric is seen through, the large fineness portion appears as a Kasuri pattern.

The result is a woven or knitted fabric with a refreshing feel.

In addition, the frequency of occurrence of the thick part that is expressed in the longitudinal direction of the single yarn constituting the thick yarn is 8 ge/m or more.

Particularly preferred is 15 g/m or more. That is, when the number of large fineness parts is less than 8 cases/m, when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, the period of development of the large fineness parts appearing in the longitudinal direction of the yarn matches that of the adjacent or nearby yarn.

When exposed on the surface of woven or knitted fabrics or when transparent, unexpected patterns may appear, or large fineness areas may appear as patterns, which can easily deteriorate the quality.
It is preferably at least 15 ke/m, particularly at least 15 ke/m.

In addition, it is effective to cause the large fineness portions to appear randomly in the cross section and in the longitudinal direction in order to suppress the above-mentioned pattern.

Note that the thicker part in the longitudinal direction of the yarn may be present in the finer fineness yarn, but in order to soften the texture of the woven or knitted fabric, it is necessary to have it in a part of the thicker fineness yarn with at least one stiffness. .

As a method for producing the special uneven yarn of mixed fibers of different fineness of the present invention, it is possible to adopt a known method of developing a large fineness part in the spinning or drawing process. The device is relatively easy to operate and develop large fineness areas.

Moreover, it is suitable because it can also be manufactured from ordinary undrawn yarn.

The yarn to be supplied at the time of drawing is preferably semi-undrawn yarn that has been oriented to some extent during the spinning stage, for example, obtained by a high-speed spinning method. In other words, the large fineness area developed by manipulating the stretching ratio and stretching temperature is not stretched at all during the stretching process.

Alternatively, since it is only slightly stretched, it is likely to be fused or dissolved by heat treatment in the preparatory process before making a woven or knitted fabric, or by alkali treatment in a subsequent process. Therefore, in order to suppress these fusions and dissolutions, it is preferable that the threads supplied during drawing be semi-undrawn threads that have been oriented in advance.

The cross-sectional shapes of the thick yarn and fine yarn constituting the yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited; It is preferable that the cross-sectional shape of is irregular. More preferably, the cross-sectional shape of part or all of the thick yarn is made into a special flat cross-section having a non-rotationally symmetrical shape having a substantially straight flat trunk and a protrusion as shown in FIG. 2B, This prevents single yarns from rolling and adhering to each other due to impact during twisting and weaving and knitting in the process of making woven or knitted fabrics, and reduces the voids between single yarns, and also prevents excessive heat treatment. Can suppress contraction.

It is also preferable that the shape of the fine-grained yarn that coexists with the thick-gained yarn is generally similar to that of the thick-gained yarn. In addition.

This is true for both thick and fine yarns.

By providing a variety of single yarn cross-sectional shapes of two or three types, a woven or knitted fabric with an extremely good texture can be obtained.

In addition, one example of the polymer forming the fiber of the present invention is as follows.

Polyester 1 polyamide etc. are preferably used, but
Polyester is suitable for further improving the hand feel through alkali Mffi processing. Moreover, there is no problem in adding additives for the purpose of imparting functionality, such as antistatic agents and flame retardants, to the polymer.

Next, an example of the manufacturing method of the special uneven yarn with mixed fineness of the present invention will be explained with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of manufacturing by a stretching process. First, during spinning, yarns or groups of yarns with different single yarn finenesses are spun from one or more spinnerets.
The supplied yarn (1), such as undrawn yarn or semi-undrawn yarn, which is wound onto two bobbins and made into a mixed yarn of different fineness in the spinning process, is thickly applied to the drawing area by the supply roller (2). Subsequently, the circumferential speed ratio of the supply roller (2) and the stretching roller (4) which also serves as heat treatment is adjusted to a stretching ratio (DR) below the natural stretching ratio of the supplied yarn (1).
) The supplied yarn (1) is brought into contact with or wound around a friction resistor (3) provided in a drawing area set in 1), and then passed through a drawing roller (4) which also serves as a heat treatment, and then wound onto a pirn (5). obtained by

Here, by changing the distance (X) m- between the yarn separation point (P) of the frictional resistor (3) and the yarn contact point (Q) of the drawing roller (4) which also serves as heat treatment, It is possible to control the frequency of occurrence of the fineness part, and the appearance frequency (ke/m) of the large fineness part can be approximately calculated using the formula: 1.2 x 10'/DRXX.

In addition, the shrinkage rate of the yarn is determined by the drawing roller (4
) can be adjusted by changing the temperature.

In addition, as a method for checking the thick part in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, first, divide it into thick yarn and fine yarn, and
Using the EVENNESS TESTERC type, yarn speed 3
m/min, full scale 50%, Normal
Using the waveform, draw a thickness unevenness curve of the thick yarn at a chart speed of 25 cn/ll1 inch, and measure the number of large fineness parts by converting the number of peaks that exceed 10% of the base waveform per 1 m. This was done by

Furthermore, the single yarn fineness of the fine fineness yarn and the thick fineness yarn in the present invention was calculated by the following method. First, about 1 m of the obtained yarn consisting of a plurality of single yarns was sampled, and each single yarn was divided into 1
Each of the separated single yarns is cut into 10c+++ pieces, and the single yarn fineness of a sample length of 5 cm is measured using a Denicon manufactured by Asahiko Seiko. The average value of the 10 pieces of data obtained by such a method was taken as the fineness of the single yarn.

(Example) Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to examples.

Example-1 Polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.02% by weight of titanium oxide and having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 was prepared in the shape shown in Figure 2, l, a: 0.12 mm, Lb:
0.30 mm, and the angle θ of each slit is 12
A spinneret for diagonal cross-section yarn with 12 0° orifices and a spinneret for round cross-section yarn with 30 circular orifices with a hole diameter of 0.2 fins were attached to separate spindles. Then, the spinning temperature of the triangular cross-section yarn was set at 285℃.
The discharge rate was set from 20.0 to 30.0 g/min, and the round-section yarn was spun simultaneously at a spinning temperature of 295°C and a discharge rate of 8.0 to 12.0 g/min, and after cooling, it was wound up. Converge the filaments with a roller to make a total of 42 filaments, and roll them onto the bobbin at a winding speed of 2500 m/min.
I picked it up.

The undrawn yarn thus obtained was drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.2 to 1.8 using the apparatus shown in FIG. X: As a 50 dragon,
A special uneven yarn with mixed fineness of 85D/42F consisting of a triangular cross-section yarn with a single yarn fineness of 5 denier and a round cross-section yarn with a single yarn fineness of 0.8 denier was obtained.

The thus obtained special uneven yarn with different fineness is woven in a plain weave structure, followed by relaxing scouring and second treatment with an alkaline solution.
5% weight reduction processing, preset, dyeing.

A final set was applied, and the texture of the back surface of the woven fabric was compared with that of a plain woven fabric made of ordinary triangular cross-section yarns that was similarly post-processed.

The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

Incidentally, Sample 4 is a reference example, in which a spinneret having 36 orifices shaped as shown in FIG. 2A was used.

Spinning temperature 295℃, 14! Taking speed 2500 m/n+i
It is a triangular cross-section yarn spun at n.

(fine fineness yarn) mixing ratio (% by weight).

The meanings of the symbols in Table 1 are as follows.

◎: Significantly better than the triangular cross-section yarn used as the measurement evaluation standard.

○: Better than the triangular cross-section yarn used as the measurement evaluation standard.

×: Almost equivalent to the triangular cross-section yarn used as the measurement evaluation standard.

Example-2 The number of orifices of the spinneret in Example-1.

Changed to 16 holes for triangular cross section threads and 96 holes for round cross section threads,
The spinning temperature of the triangular cross-section yarn was 285°C, and the discharge rate was 35.5.
g/min, and the spinning temperature of the round cross-section yarn was 295 g/min.
℃, with a discharge rate of 34.1 g/l1lin, and after cooling the yarn, part or all of the 16 filaments of the triangular cross-section yarn and one of the 96 filaments of the round cross-section yarn are spun on a winding roller. After dividing the yarn, the triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn were bundled into one yarn using a guide, and the yarn was wound onto a bobbin at a winding speed of 2500 m/win.

The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 at a draw ratio of 1.6 with Made of 0.8 denier round cross section yarn (fine fineness yarn).

The mixing ratio was different to obtain a special uneven yarn with a yarn fineness of about 85 denier. The thus obtained special uneven yarn with different fineness was compared in the same manner as in Example 1, and the evaluation was made in the second example.
Shown in the table.

J) Rui and 1tlJ.

Example-3 The number of orifices of the spinneret in Example-1.

Changed to 40 holes for both triangular cross section yarn and round cross section yarn.

The spinning temperature of the triangular cross-section yarn is 285℃, and the discharge amount is 28.0 ~
1) At 2.0 g/1 Ilin, round cross-section yarn was spun simultaneously at a spinning temperature of 295° C. and a discharge rate of 13.1 to 37.3 g/min, and after cooling, on a winding roller.

A part of the triangular cross-section thread 40 filament.

After dividing a part of the round section yarn 40 filament.

The triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn were bundled into one yarn using a guide, and wound onto a bobbin at a winding speed of 3500 m/min.

The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in FIG. 1 at a draw ratio of 1.2 with X being 50 fins, and the fineness was different, and the triangular cross-section yarn (thick fineness yarn) was 70 weight%,
A special uneven yarn with mixed fineness of different fineness was obtained which had a mixture ratio of round cross-section yarn (fineness yarn) of 30% by weight. The thus obtained special uneven yarn with different fineness was compared in the same manner as in Example 1, and the evaluation results are shown in Tables 3 and 4.

Example 4 The same polyethylene terephthalate as in Example 1 was prepared using one spinneret in the shape shown in FIG. 2B, with Lc=L f :0.
08m, Ld: 0.051°m, Le:
1.1+u.

α: 12 holes with 50° orifice, L in the shape of Fig. 2 A
a: 0.08m, Lb: 0.22m, θ:
1. Using a spinneret with 36 120° orifices (3 total 4B holes). Spinning temperature 295°C/discharge amount 37.5g
A total of 48 filaments are collected into one yarn under the conditions of /win, and the winding speed is 2500 m/mi.
I wound it onto a bobbin with n.

The undrawn yarn thus obtained was drawn using the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 at a drawing ratio of 1.6 with an I got uneven yarn. This yarn is 85D/48F with a flat cross section yarn (thick yarn) of 5 denier and a blending ratio of 70%, triangular cross section yarn (fine yarn) of 0.7 denier, and a blending ratio of 30% by weight. It was a special uneven yarn with mixed fibers of different fineness.

This special uneven yarn mixed with different fineness is woven using a hand-woven structure as warp and weft, and then relaxed and refined to 25%
It was reduced, braced, dyed, and final set.

As a result of evaluating the fabric thus obtained, it was found to be a silk-like fabric with excellent dryness, fluffiness, and luster.

Example-5 25°C for a solution of Ig/100cc in 96% sulfuric acid
Using nylon 6 with a relative viscosity of 2.6 as measured by
Using the same spinneret as in Example-4.

The filaments were discharged at a spinning temperature of 275° C. and a discharge rate of 30.5 g/min. After cooling, the filaments were bundled into one yarn so as to have a total of 48 filaments, and wound onto a bobbin at a winding speed of 2500 m/min.

The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 at a stretching ratio of 1.3 with X set to 50 m, and was made into a special uneven yarn with mixed fineness of different fineness having a number of thick portions of 17/m. I got it.

In addition, this yarn has a flat cross section yarn (thick fineness yarn) of 5 denier, a mixed fiber ratio of 70% by weight, and a triangular cross section yarn (fine fineness yarn) of 0.
．． At 7 denier.

It was a special uneven yarn of 85D/48F with a mixed fiber ratio of 30% by weight.

This special uneven yarn mixed with different fineness was woven in a plain weave structure as the warp and weft, followed by relaxing scouring, 25% weight reduction processing, presse knot dyeing, and final cent. As a result of evaluating the fabric thus obtained, it was found to be a silk-like fabric with excellent dryness, fluffiness, and luster.

Example-6 The undrawn yarn of Trial-2 in Example-1 was used.

Using the apparatus shown in FIG. 1, when drawing at a draw ratio of 1.6, X was changed to obtain yarns having different numbers of thick portions in the yarn longitudinal direction. The thus obtained special uneven yarn with different fineness was compared in the same manner as in Example 1, and the evaluations are shown in Table 5.

(Effects of the Invention) The special uneven yarn mixed with different fineness of the present invention can impart firmness, stiffness, softness, and fullness to the fabric by the mixed thick and fine yarns, and also has at least a large fineness. Some of the threads have thick parts, so there are parts with different fineness in the cross-section and longitudinal direction of the thread, which gives the fabric an uneven surface, giving it an extremely dry feel and a refreshing feeling. A certain texture can be imparted.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a stretching/twisting machine used for manufacturing the special uneven yarn of mixed fibers of different fineness according to the present invention. FIGS. 2A and 2B are schematic diagrams showing an example of an orifice for spinning a thick yarn according to the present invention and a cross section of the spun yarn.

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) 20% by weight or more of thick yarn with a single yarn fineness of 3 denier or more, and 5% by weight of fine yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less
% or more by weight, and at least a part of the thick yarn has a thick part in its longitudinal direction. (2) The special uneven yarn mixed with different finenesses according to claim 1, wherein part or all of the thick yarns are irregular cross-section yarns. (3) The special unevenness of mixed fibers of different fineness according to claim 2, wherein a part or all of the thick yarn has a non-rotationally symmetric cross-sectional shape having a substantially linear flat trunk and a protrusion. thread.