JPS6290345A - Different finness and different shrinkage blended spun yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to a mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage that gives woven and knitted fabrics an excellent dry feel and fullness.

(Prior art) In order to eliminate the sliminess, stiffness, irritation, etc. that are the disadvantages of conventional nine synthetic fibers, and to give woven and knitted fabrics a dry feel and the illusion of fullness, the cross-sectional shape of single yarns is made irregularly shaped, or dry fibers are used. Various attempts have been made to vary the fineness of the single yarns in order to impart feel and lightness.

For example, these monofilament yarns with irregular cross-sections, such as triangular cross-sections or cross-sections with star-like protrusions, have been put into practical use as having luster and a non-slimy texture that cannot be obtained with conventional synthetic fibers. Ta.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, when yarns made of these irregular cross-section yarns are made into woven or knitted fabrics without any devising, the fineness or heat shrinkage characteristics between single yarns or in the length direction of the yarns Since it is uniform, it has the disadvantage of lacking a feeling of fullness, and although it can remove the slimy feeling to some extent, it does not have a dry feeling.

In addition, for the above-mentioned irregular cross-section yarns or round cross-section yarns, we can also use mixed fiber yarns with different fineness, which give firmness, body, and softness to woven or knitted fabrics by varying the single yarn fineness between yarns, or yarns with different heat shrinkage. Different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns, which are a mixture of single yarns, have also been proposed.

The fluffiness of woven and knitted fabrics using these mixed yarns of different fineness or mixed yarns with different shrinkage is somewhat improved, and in particular, yarns with different fineness and different shrinkage that have different finenesses between single yarns and also have a difference in shrinkage can be improved. When it is heat-treated after being made into a woven or knitted fabric, it has good firmness, stiffness, and softness due to the combined effect of loops that occur continuously or intermittently depending on the yarn length difference, and it also has a fluffy effect. This creates a texture similar to that of natural fibers.

Many such proposals have been made regarding silk-like texture yarns with high added value, and are introduced, for example, in the embodiments of Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-22586 or Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 161-63 of 1982.

However, in all of these methods, the fineness of single yarns is made different between groups of yarns with different shrinkage rates, and the fineness of single yarns within a single system is uniform without any change. Although it has a considerably stiffer texture compared to woven and knitted fabrics, it is still a synthetic fiber.

The reason for this can be considered to be as follows. That is,
When these differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns are heat-treated after being made into woven or knitted fabrics, due to the difference in shrinkage, loops are formed continuously or intermittently in the yarn length direction of the low-shrinkage components, giving the woven or knitted fabric a soft feel or fullness. This is what makes the effect manifest.

Therefore, since the surface of the woven or knitted material is dominated by the low-shrinkage component, the cross-sectional shape or fineness of the single yarns constituting the low-shrinkage component has an extremely large effect on the feel of the woven or knitted material.

By the way, when following the method described in the above-mentioned publication, when it is desired to impart firmness, stiffness, and even a dry feel to the knitted fabric, a relatively high-density yarn is used as a single yarn with a low shrinkage component. Although a woven or knitted fabric with firmness and a stiff-dry feel can be obtained, on the other hand, due to the fineness of the single yarn of the low shrinkage component, the yarn exhibits a rigid texture lacking drapability or softness.

On the other hand, in order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with drapability or a soft feel, if a single yarn with a low shrinkage component is made into a fine-grained yarn,
The drapability or softness is too emphasized, making it look firm,
A phenomenon occurs in which the woven or knitted fabric lacks stiffness and even has a slimy feel, and when some properties are satisfied, other properties deteriorate. In other words, it has not been possible to produce a woven or knitted fabric using synthetic fibers that has the drapability or soft feel characteristic of natural silk or wool, but also has firmness, stiffness, and dryness.

The present invention was made in view of this situation, and
The purpose is to provide a yarn suitable for use in woven or knitted fabrics that has an excellent dry feel and fluffy feel.

(Means for Solving the Problems) In order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with excellent dryness and swelling properties, the present inventors focused on the properties of single yarns and found that , consists of mixed yarns with different single yarn finenesses, and by appropriately selecting the mixing ratio of thick fineness components and fine fineness components, the above-mentioned firmness, body, dry feeling, drapability, and soft feeling are achieved. The present inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain a yarn that satisfies the contradictory performance of a feeling of fullness.

That is, 1 the present invention is a mixed shrinkage yarn composed of a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component with a difference in shrinkage percentage of 3% or more, and of the two components, at least the low shrinkage component has a single yarn fineness of 3 denier. 20% by weight or more of fineness yarns with a single yarn fineness of 1.
The gist of the present invention is a mixed shrinkage yarn of different finenesses, which is characterized by containing 5% by weight or more of fineness yarns of 5 denier or less.

In the present invention, when heat treatment is applied after making a RA knitted fabric from a mixed shrinkage yarn consisting of a plurality of yarns with different shrinkage rates, the low shrinkage component is continuously or intermittently processed in the length direction of the yarn due to the difference in shrinkage rate. The main aim is to form a loop in the woven or knitted fabric, and create a void in the woven or knitted fabric to create a soft or fullness effect. To achieve the effect, the difference in shrinkage rate between high shrinkage component and low shrinkage component must be 3%.
It is necessary to do more than that. If the shrinkage rate difference is less than 3%, the shrinkage rates are close to each other, so even if heat treatment is performed after making the woven or knitted fabric, the formation of loops due to the difference in shrinkage rate will be small, and the resulting woven or knitted fabric will be vapor-like and flat. It has a pleasant texture. However, it is not necessary to increase the shrinkage rate difference indefinitely.

It is preferable to set the limit to 40%. Shrinkage rate difference is 40%
If the yarn exceeds this value, the shrinkage rate of the high-shrinkage component will inevitably be high, and the yarn of the high-shrinkage component will shrink significantly during heat treatment, and loops will already appear at this stage, causing breakage and loop accumulation during wi knitting. This may cause trouble.

Furthermore, when such a woven or knitted fabric with a high difference in shrinkage rate is actually worn as a product, it is undesirable to cause misalignment or stretching at the elbows or knees, which are bent many times during one wear.

Next, if the shrinkage rate of the low-shrinkage component is as low as possible, the amount of width addition when heat-treating the woven or knitted fabric can be reduced.
Furthermore, since the texture on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes good, it is preferably at most 15%, and more preferably at most 10%.

Ultimately, the difference in shrinkage percentage between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component must be at least 3%, and is preferably in the range of 10% to 30%.

1 Regarding the definition of shrinkage rate difference in the present invention, the yarn exhibiting the highest shrinkage rate by the measurement method described later among multiple yarns with different shrinkage rates is referred to as the high shrinkage component, and the yarn with the lowest shrinkage rate is referred to as the high shrinkage component. A yarn exhibiting 5 is called a low shrinkage component, which refers to the difference between the two.

The mixed shrinkage yarn of the present invention does not need to be composed of two types of shrinkage components, and there is no problem even if there is an intermediate shrinkage component between the high-shrinkage component and the low-shrinkage component. Woven or knitted fabrics with good texture can be obtained by varying the amount of loops.

Next, regarding the fineness distribution of single yarns within a single shrinkage component, at least the low shrinkage component includes yarns with a fineness of 3 deniers or more and 1.
It is necessary that fine yarns of 5 denier or less are mixed and integrated. The presence of fine yarns provides a firm, stiff, or dry feel, and the presence of fine yarns provides a woven or knitted fabric with a soft feel, fluffy feel, or drape performance.

If the fineness of the yarn is less than 3 denier, the cross-sectional area of the single yarn is small, so it is difficult to expect a repulsive force against lateral force applied to the single yarn, or bending or twisting, resulting in a decrease in stiffness and firmness. Furthermore, since the difference in fineness from the fineness yarn is small, the unevenness is lost, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with a slimy feel, which is not preferable. Therefore, in order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with firmness, stiffness, or a dry feel, the single yarn fineness is 3 denier or more, preferably in the range of 5 to 7 denier. In this case, it is undesirable because the soft feel or the drape performance is slightly lacking, resulting in a stiff texture.

Therefore, in the single yarn fineness configuration of the mixed yarn of different fineness and different shrinkage in the present invention, at least the low shrinkage component has a small amount of the yarn of this fineness (
At the same time, in order to impart a soft feel, fine-grained yarns with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less are used.
It must be present in an amount of at least % by weight. In the present invention, if the composition ratio of the fineness yarn is less than 20% by weight, the dry feel and fullness will be lacking, which is not preferable. Furthermore, if the fineness yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less is less than 5% by weight, the effect of the fineness yarn is strong, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric that lacks a soft feel and has a slightly stiff feel, which is also undesirable.

In the present invention, the mixing ratio of the present fineness yarn and the fineness yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less is not particularly limited as long as it is within the above range, and is appropriately determined depending on the desired texture. Changes are possible. In addition, if a yarn that satisfies the single yarn fineness distribution and the mixing ratio of regular fineness yarn and fine fineness yarn is used only for the low shrinkage component, the fineness of the single yarn for other shrinkage components will be the average of the regular fineness yarn. Same as single yarn fineness or 1
There is no problem as long as it is within the range of /4.

Although the cross-sectional shape of the present fineness yarn and the fineness yarn constituting each shrinkage component is not particularly limited, in order to most effectively achieve the object of the present invention, the cross-sectional shape of a part or all of the present fineness yarn is not particularly limited. It is preferable to make the shape irregular, more preferably,
If the cross-sectional shape of part or all of this fineness yarn is made into a special flat cross-section consisting of a non-rotationally symmetrical shape having a substantially straight flat trunk and protrusions as shown in the first diagram, it will be difficult to form a woven or knitted fabric. Due to impact during twisting or weaving and knitting in the process, the single yarns are prevented from rolling and sticking together, reducing the voids between the single yarns, and the yarns can also freely contract during heat treatment.

The shape of the fine-grained yarn that coexists with the fineness yarn is also preferably similar to that of the fineness yarn. In addition.

This is true for both regular fineness yarns and fine fineness yarns.

By providing a variety of single yarn cross-sectional shapes of two or three types, a woven or knitted fabric with an extremely good texture can be obtained.

Here, the shrinkage rate as used in the present invention is defined as follows.

In other words, from a group of yarns with different shrinkage percentages, each shrinkage component is skeined using a measuring machine, and the total denier of each shrinkage component is divided by 30.
g, measure the initial length (LO) under load.

Next, the yarn is treated in spring water at 100° C. for 30 minutes under no load to shrink the yarn. After air drying, the length after shrinkage is determined again under the same load as above.

The shrinkage rate is defined by the following formula.

Shrinkage rate: S=(Lo-L+)/LoX100
(%) As the polymer forming the fiber of the present invention, polyester, polyamide, etc. are suitably used, but polyester is suitable for further improving the feel by alkali reduction processing. Moreover, there is no problem in adding additives for the purpose of imparting functionality, such as antistatic agents and flame retardants, to the polymer.

As a method for obtaining the shrinkage mixed yarn of different fineness of the present invention, each yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn is discharged from the same or separate spinnerets, and the yarns are combined and wound at the time of winding, and the yarns of different fineness are different in the spinning process. Preferably, a method is employed in which the yarn is made into a mixed fiber yarn, and then the shrinkage rate is differentiated in a drawing step to make a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage.

When the yarns are discharged from the same spinneret, it is easy to form three or more mixed yarns having different finenesses and shapes.

The method of obtaining a differentially contracted mixed fiber yarn during drawing can be carried out efficiently by using the drawing/twisting machine shown in FIG. That is, undrawn yarn spools IA and IB
When stretching the undrawn yarns 2A and 2B pulled out from the undrawn yarns 2A and 2B between the heating supply roller 4 and the stretching roller 6 via the alignment roller 3, only the yarn 2A is brought into contact with the hot plate 5 to perform the stretching, Continue to combine yarns (mixed fibers) to create mixed yarn pirn 7
It is to be unraveled as follows.

(Example) Next, one embodiment of the present invention will be described in more detail using an example.

Example-1 Polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.02% by weight of titanium oxide and having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 was prepared in the shape shown in Figure 1, La: 0.12 mm, Lb
:0.30mm.

A spinneret for a triangular cross-section yarn having 12 orifices with each slit having an angle θ of 120°, and a spinneret for a triangular cross-section yarn having a hole diameter of 0.
Using a device in which spinnerets for round cross-section yarns each having 30 2 mm circular orifices were attached to separate spindles, the spinning temperature for triangular cross-section yarn was set at 285°C, and the discharge rate was set at 20°C.
．． 5 to 28.1 g/min, the spinning temperature of the round cross-section yarn was 295°C, and the discharge rate was 8.2 to 1). 3g/1I
After cooling, the triangular cross-section yarn 12 filaments are divided into two groups of 6 filaments each, and the round cross-section yarn 30 filaments are divided into 15
After dividing into two groups of filaments, use a guide to create 6 filaments of triangular cross-section thread.

Round cross section yarn 15 filaments, total 21 filaments in 1
9 winding speed 1, 400m
/ll1in was wound onto a bobbin consisting of two groups.

The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in FIG. 2 at a drawing ratio of 2.2 to 3.0. Stretching temperature: Under conditions of 85°C, only the yarn containing the low shrinkage component was brought into active contact with a hot plate heated to 165°C, while the yarn containing the high shrinkage component was separated from the hot plate by a guide. After stretching, the yarn is mixed and wound up, and the shrinkage rate difference is different, and the single yarn fineness of each shrinkage component is 5 denier (D) triangular cross-section yarn and 0.80.
An 85D/42F yarn consisting of round cross-section yarns of different fineness and different shrinkage fibers was obtained in which both shrinkage components had a triangular cross-section yarn (main fineness yarn) at a mixing ratio of about 70% by weight.

The high shrinkage component of Trial 4 in Table 1 was subjected to heat treatment at 145° C. using a separately provided hot plate during stretching.

The thus obtained mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage was divided into a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component, and the shrinkage percentage of each was measured. In addition, this mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and shrinkage was woven in a habutae structure, and after a series of post-processing, the texture of the fabric surface was compared with that of a regular triangular cross-section yarn habutae, and the evaluation results were obtained. are shown in Table 1.

Note: The upper row of the mixing ratio (%) is the mixture ratio of the triangular cross-section yarn (fine fineness yarn) in the low shrinkage component.The lower row is the mixing ratio of the round cross-section yarn (fine fineness yarn). Note that the evaluation in Table 9 is ◎: significantly better than the triangular cross-section yarn used as the measurement evaluation standard.

○: Better than the triangular cross-section yarn used as the measurement evaluation standard.

×: Approximately equivalent to the triangular cross-section yarn used as the measurement evaluation standard.

Example 2 In Example 1, the number of orifices of the spinneret was changed to 16 holes for the triangular cross section yarn and 96 holes for the round cross section yarn, the spinning temperature for the triangular cross section yarn was 285°C, and the discharge rate was 32. 1g/mi
At the same time, the round cross-section yarn was spun at a spinning temperature of 295°C and a discharge rate of 31.2 g/min, and after cooling the yarn, a part or all of the triangular cross-section filament was spun on a winding roller. , and round cross section yarn 96 After dividing the inner part of the filament, the triangular cross section yarn and the round cross section yarn are collected into one yarn by a guide, and the winding speed is 1.40.
It was wound onto a bobbin at 0 m/min.

The undrawn yarn thus obtained was drawn at a drawing ratio of 2.6 using the apparatus shown in FIG. At a drawing temperature of 285°C, only the yarn with low shrinkage components was brought into active contact with a hot plate heated to 165°C and drawn, then mixed and wound. Triangular cross section yarn with yarn fineness of 5D and 0
．． 80 round □ cross-section yarn, the mixing ratio of triangular cross-section yarn (main fineness yarn) for both of the five shrinkage components is approximately 12°36.59,100% by weight, and the yarn fineness is approximately 85D. Got the thread.

The thus obtained different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns of different finenesses were compared in the same manner as in Example 1, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

Note: The evaluation criteria in the table were evaluated in the same manner as in Example-1.

Example-3 The number of orifices of the spinneret in Example-1 was changed to 40 holes for both the triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn, and the spinning temperature of the triangular cross-section yarn was 285°C, and the discharge rate was 24.2 to 97. 1g/m
in, the spinning temperature of the round cross-section yarn was 295°C, and the discharge amount was 1.
). Spinning simultaneously as 2-32.4 g/min.

After cooling, a part of the filament of 40 triangular cross-section yarns and a part of the filament of 40 round cross-section yarns are divided on a winding roller, and then the triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn are combined into one yarn by a guide. The winding speed is 1,400m/
I wound it onto a bobbin at min.

The undrawn yarn thus obtained was drawn at a drawing ratio of 2.6 using the apparatus shown in FIG. At a stretching temperature of 285°C,
After stretching only the yarn containing the low shrinkage component by actively contacting it with a hot plate heated to 165°C.

The single yarn fineness of the triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn is different due to the compounded fibers, and the yarn fineness of the re-shrinkage component is 70% for the triangular cross-section yarn and 30% for the round cross-section yarn. A mixed fiber yarn of different fineness and different shrinkage of 85 denier was obtained.

The thus obtained different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns of different finenesses were compared in the same manner as in Example 1, and the evaluation results are shown in Tables 3 and 4. In addition, in Trial 9 and Trial 12, the discharge amount of the triangular cross-section yarn (this fineness yarn) was set to 80.9 g/win, and only 12 filaments out of 40 filaments were collected. In addition, from Trial-13 to Trial-16, the discharge amount of round cross-section yarn (fine fineness yarn) was 14.5g/
min, and only 2B filaments out of 40 filaments were collected.

Note: The evaluation criteria in the table were evaluated in the same manner as in Example-1.

Example-4 The same polyethylene terephthalate as in Example-1 was put into one spinneret in the shape shown in Fig. 1B, La = Ld: 0.08 mm.
+, Lb: 0.50mm, Lc: 1.1mm,
α: 12 orifices of 50″, shape as shown in Figure 1 A,
La: 0.08n+n+, Lb: 0.22mm,
Using a spinneret having 36 orifices (120°, 48 holes in total), spinning temperature: 295°C, spinning speed: 1
, 400m/n+in, discharge amount: 34.4 g/mi
After spinning under conditions of n, and cooling, the former flat cross-section yarn 12 filaments were divided into two groups of 6 filaments each on a winding roller, and the latter triangular cross-section yarn 36 filaments were divided into two groups of 18 filaments each. After dividing, 6 filaments of flat cross-section yarn and 18 filaments of triangular cross-section yarn, 24 filaments in total, were bundled into one yarn by a guide and wound onto a bobbin consisting of two groups.

The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in FIG. 2 at a drawing ratio of 2.6. Stretching temperature: Under conditions of 85°C, only the yarn containing the low shrinkage component was brought into active contact with a hot plate heated to 165°C, while the yarn containing the high shrinkage component was separated from the hot plate by a guide. After stretching, 3 ply yarns are mixed and rolled up, high shrinkage component 25.2%, low shrinkage component 5.6%
, and the single yarn fineness of each shrinkage component is 501.
71) of 85D/48F with different fineness and different shrinkage was obtained. In addition, the single yarn fineness of the flat cross-section yarn for both 9 shrinkage components is 5.
The blending ratio of D was 70% by weight, and the blending ratio of triangular cross-section yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0°7D was 30% by weight.

This mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage was woven in a plain weave structure as warp and weft, followed by relaxation scouring, 25% weight reduction processing, presetting, dyeing, and final setting. As a result of evaluating the fabric thus obtained, it was found to be a silk-like fabric with excellent dryness, fluffiness, and luster.

Example-5 25 for a solution of Ig/100cc in 96% sulfuric acid
Using nylon 6, the relative viscosity measured at °C is 2.6.

Using the same spinneret as in Example-4, the spinning temperature was 2275.
°C, spinning speed: L400m/min, discharge amount: 33
．． After spinning under the conditions of 7 g/mjn and cooling, the flat cross-section yarn 12 filaments were divided into two groups of 6 filaments each on a winding roller, and the triangular cross-section yarn 36 filaments were divided into two groups of 18 filaments each. Thereafter, a total of 24 filaments (18 filaments of triangular cross-section yarn), including 6 filaments of flat cross-section yarn, were bundled into one thread using a guide, and the yarn was wound onto a bobbin consisting of two groups.

The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in FIG. 2 at a drawing ratio of 2°52. Stretching temperature: At room temperature, only the yarn containing low shrinkage components was brought into active contact with a hot plate heated to 165°C, while the yarn containing high shrinkage components was separated from the hot plate using a guide. After stretching, 1 yarn is mixed and rolled up, high shrinkage component 17.0%, low shrinkage component 5.2%
, and the single yarn fineness of each shrinkage component is 5D and 0.
．． A mixed fiber yarn of 7D and 85D/48F with different shrinkage of different fineness was obtained.

For both of the three shrinkage components, the fiber blending ratio is 70% for the flat cross-section yarn of 5D, and the blending ratio for the triangular cross-section yarn of 0.7D is 30%.
Warm in %.

This mixed yarn with different shrinkage of different fineness was woven into a plain weave structure as warp and weft, followed by relaxation scouring, 25% weight reduction processing, presetting, dyeing, and final centing. As a result of evaluating the fabric thus obtained, it was found to be a silk-like fabric with excellent dryness, fluffiness, and luster.

(Effects of the Invention) The mixed yarn of different fineness and different shrinkage of the present invention has a mixture of normal fineness yarn and fine fineness yarn in the low shrinkage component that controls the texture of woven or knitted fabrics.
It provides a woven or knitted fabric that satisfies the contradictory properties of firmness, stiffness, dry feel, drapability, soft feel, and fullness.2 According to the present invention, it has a refreshing dry feel and rich fullness that are not found in conventional synthetic fibers. It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that is light and comfortable to wear even in midsummer.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of an orifice for spinning yarn of this fineness according to Zero Invention and a cross section of the spun yarn. Figure 1 (A) Two orifice shapes of the triangular cross-section yarn used in the examples of the present invention Figure 1 (B) Two Orifice shapes of the flat cross-section yarn used in the examples of the present invention Figure 1 (C) Figure 1 (D) shows the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn spun through the orifice shown in Figure 1 (A). Figure 2 shows the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn spun through the orifice shown in Figure 1 (B). It is a schematic diagram showing an example of the stretching machine used for manufacturing.

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) It is a mixed shrinkage yarn composed of a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component with a shrinkage rate difference of 3% or more, and of both components, at least the low shrinkage component has a single yarn fineness of 3 denier or more. A mixed yarn with different fineness and shrinkage, characterized by containing 20% by weight or more of fineness yarn and 5% by weight or more of fineness yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less. (2) The mixed yarn of different fineness and different shrinkage according to claim 1, wherein a part or all of the fineness yarn is a yarn of irregular cross section. (3) The mixed fiber of different fineness and different shrinkage according to claim 2, wherein a part or all of the fineness yarn has a non-rotationally symmetrical cross-sectional shape having a substantially linear flat trunk and a protrusion. thread.