JPH036263B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

(Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to a mixed yarn with different shrinkage of different fineness and which gives a woven or knitted fabric an excellent dry feel and fullness. (Conventional technology) Conventionally, in order to eliminate the sliminess, stiffness, and irritation that are the disadvantages of synthetic fibers and to give woven and knitted fabrics a dry and full feel, the cross-sectional shape of single yarns has been made irregular, or dry fibers have been Various attempts have been made to vary the fineness of the single yarns in order to impart feel and lightness. For example, yarns with irregular cross-sections, such as single yarns with triangular cross-sections or cross-sections with star-shaped protrusions, have been put into practical use as having luster and a non-slimy texture that cannot be obtained with conventional synthetic fibers. Ta. (Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, when yarns made of these irregular cross-section yarns are made into woven or knitted fabrics without any devising, the fineness or heat shrinkage characteristics between single yarns or in the length direction of the yarns Since it is uniform, it has the disadvantage of lacking a feeling of fullness, and although it can remove the slimy feeling to some extent, it does not have a dry feeling. In addition, for the above-mentioned irregular cross-section yarns or round cross-section yarns, we can also use mixed fiber yarns with different fineness, which give firmness, body, and softness to woven or knitted fabrics by varying the single yarn fineness between yarns, or yarns with different heat shrinkage. Different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns, which are a mixture of single yarns, have also been proposed. The fluffiness of woven and knitted fabrics using these mixed yarns of different fineness or mixed yarns with different shrinkage is somewhat improved, and in particular, yarns with different fineness and different shrinkage that have different finenesses between single yarns and also have a difference in shrinkage can be improved. When it is heat-treated after being made into a woven or knitted fabric, it has good firmness, stiffness, and softness due to the combined effect of loops that occur continuously or intermittently due to the difference in yarn length. It has a swelling effect and a texture similar to natural fibers. Many such proposals have been made regarding high value-added silk-like textured yarns, such as the
It is introduced in the embodiments of No. 22586 or Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 161163/1983. However, in all of these methods, the single yarn fineness is made different between yarn groups with different shrinkage rates, and the single yarn fineness within a single yarn is uniform without any change. Although it has a very similar texture when compared to , it is still a synthetic fiber after all. Possible reasons for this are as follows. In other words, when these differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns are heat-treated after being made into a woven or knitted fabric, loops are formed continuously or intermittently in the yarn length direction of the low-shrinkage component due to the difference in shrinkage, giving the woven or knitted fabric a soft texture. This produces the effect of feeling or swelling. Therefore, since the surface of the woven or knitted material is dominated by the low-shrinkage component, the cross-sectional shape or fineness of the single yarns constituting the low-shrinkage component has an extremely large effect on the feel of the woven or knitted material. By the way, when following the method described in the above-mentioned publication, a comparatively thick yarn is used as the single yarn with low shrinkage components when it is desired to impart firmness, stiffness, and even a dry feel to the woven or knitted fabric. Although a woven or knitted fabric with firmness and a stiff-dry feel can be obtained, since the single yarn fineness of the low shrinkage component is thick, it exhibits a rigid texture lacking drapability or soft feel. Conversely, if you try to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with drapability or a soft feel, if you use a single yarn with a low shrinkage component to fine-grained yarn, the drapability or soft feel will be overemphasized, resulting in a lack of firmness and stiffness. A phenomenon occurs in which a woven or knitted fabric has a slimy feel, and when some properties are satisfied, other properties deteriorate. In other words, it has not been possible to produce a woven or knitted fabric using synthetic fibers that has the drapability or soft feel characteristic of natural silk or wool, but also has firmness, stiffness, and dryness. The present invention has been made in view of these circumstances, and its purpose is to provide a yarn suitable for use in woven or knitted fabrics that has excellent dryness and fluffiness. (Means for Solving the Problems) The present inventors have focused on the properties of single yarns in an attempt to obtain woven or knitted fabrics with excellent dryness and fluffiness. , consists of mixed yarns with different finenesses, and by selecting an appropriate mixing ratio of thick and fineness components, the above-mentioned firmness, body, dry feel and drapability, The inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain a yarn that satisfies the contradictory properties of a soft feel and a fluffy feeling, leading to the present invention. That is, the present invention is a mixed shrinkage yarn composed of a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component with a difference in shrinkage percentage of 3% or more, and of the two components, at least the low shrinkage component has a single yarn fineness of 3 denier. The gist of the present invention is a mixed fiber yarn of different fineness and shrinkage, which is characterized by containing 20% by weight or more of the above-mentioned thick yarn and 5% by weight or more of fineness yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less. In the present invention, when heat treatment is applied after making a woven or knitted fabric from a hetero-shrinkable blended yarn consisting of a plurality of yarns with different shrinkage rates, the difference in shrinkage rates causes the low-shrinkage component to continue or The main aim of this method is to create a soft feeling or bulge effect by forming loops intermittently and creating voids in the woven or knitted fabric with these loops. In order to achieve this effect, the difference in shrinkage rate between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component must be 3% or more. If the shrinkage rate difference is less than 3%, the shrinkage rates are close to each other, so even if heat treatment is performed after making the woven or knitted fabric, the formation of loops due to the difference in shrinkage rate will be small, and the resulting woven or knitted fabric will be paper-like and flat. It has a pleasant texture. However, the shrinkage rate difference does not need to be infinitely large;
It is preferable to limit it to 40%. Shrinkage rate difference is 40
%, the shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage component will inevitably be high, and the yarn of the high shrinkage component will shrink significantly during heat treatment, and loops will already appear at this stage, causing breakage and loop accumulation during weaving and knitting. and cause trouble. In addition, when such a woven or knitted fabric with a high difference in shrinkage rate is actually worn as a product, it is undesirable to cause misalignment or stretching at the elbows or knees, which are often bent during wear. Next, the shrinkage rate of the low-shrinkage component is preferably 15%, since it is better to keep the shrinkage rate as low as possible, since the amount of width addition when heat-treating the woven or knitted fabric will be smaller, and the texture on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric will also be better. It is preferable to set the limit to 10% or less. Ultimately, the difference in shrinkage rate between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component must be at least 3%, and is preferably in the range of 10% to 30%. Regarding the definition of shrinkage rate difference in the present invention, the yarn exhibiting the highest shrinkage rate according to the measurement method described later among multiple yarns with different shrinkage rates is referred to as the high shrinkage component, and the yarn with the lowest shrinkage rate is referred to as the high shrinkage component. A yarn exhibiting a shrinkage rate is referred to as a low shrinkage component, which refers to the difference between the two. The mixed shrinkage yarn of the present invention does not need to be composed of two types of shrinkage components; there is no problem even if there is an intermediate shrinkage component between the high-shrinkage component and the low-shrinkage component; Woven or knitted fabrics with good texture can be obtained by varying the amount of loops generated. Next, regarding the fineness distribution of single yarns within a single shrinkage component, at least the low shrinkage component is composed of thick yarns of 3 deniers or more and fine yarns of 1.5 deniers or less mixed together. It is necessary to be present.
The presence of thick yarns provides a firm, stiff, or dry feel, while the presence of fine yarns provides a woven or knitted fabric with soft, fluffy, or drape properties. If the fineness of the thick yarn is less than 3 denier, the cross-sectional area of the single yarn is small, so it is difficult to expect a repulsive force against lateral force applied to the single yarn, or bending or twisting, resulting in a decrease in stiffness and firmness. Furthermore, since there is little difference in fineness from fine-grained yarn, the uneven feel is lost, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with a slimy feel, which is not preferable. Therefore, to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with firmness, stiffness, or a dry feel, the single yarn fineness is 3 deniers or more, preferably in the range of 5 to 7 deniers. If this is done, the fabric will have a softer feel or a stiffer texture with a slight lack of drape performance, which is undesirable. Therefore, in the single yarn fineness configuration of the variable shrinkage mixed yarn of the present invention, at least 20% by weight or more of the thick yarn is present in the low shrinkage component, and at the same time, the single yarn fineness is 1.5 to impart a soft feel. It is necessary that at least 5% by weight of fineness yarns having a denier or less be present. In the present invention, if the composition ratio of the thick yarn is less than 20% by weight, the dry feel and fullness will be lacking, which is not preferable. In addition, the single yarn fineness is
If the fineness yarn of 1.5 denier or less is less than 5% by weight, the influence of the thick yarn becomes strong, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric that lacks a soft feel and has a slightly stiff feel, which is also undesirable. In the present invention, the thick yarn and the single yarn fineness are
The mixing ratio of fineness yarns of 1.5 denier or less is not particularly limited as long as it is within the above range, and can be changed as appropriate depending on the desired texture. In addition, if a yarn that satisfies the fineness distribution of single yarn and the mixing ratio of thick yarn and fine yarn is used only for the low shrinkage component, the fineness of the single yarn for other shrinkage components will be the average of the thick yarn. There is no problem as long as the fineness is the same as the single yarn or within 1/4 of the range. Although the cross-sectional shape of the thick yarn and fine yarn constituting each shrinkage component is not particularly limited, in order to most effectively achieve the object of the present invention, the cross-sectional shape of part or all of the thick yarn should be It is preferable that the cross-sectional shape of part or all of the thick yarn is made into an irregular shape, and more preferably, the cross-sectional shape of part or all of the thick yarn is changed from a non-rotationally symmetrical shape having a substantially straight flat trunk and a protrusion as shown in FIG. 1D. By creating a special flat cross section, the single yarns are prevented from rolling and sticking to each other due to impact during twisting and weaving and knitting in the process of making woven or knitted fabrics, and the voids between the single yarns are suppressed. The yarn can freely shrink even during heat treatment. It is also preferable that the shape of the fine-grained yarn that coexists with the thick-gained yarn is generally similar to that of the thick-gained yarn. In addition,
This is true for both thick and fine yarns,
By providing a variety of single yarn cross-sectional shapes of two or three types, a woven or knitted fabric exhibiting an extremely good texture can be obtained. Here, the shrinkage rate in the present invention is defined as follows. That is, from a group of yarns with different shrinkage percentages, each shrinkage component is separated by a measuring machine, and the initial length (L ₀ ) of each shrinkage component is measured under a load of 30g/total denier. Next, the yarn is treated in boiling water at 100° C. for 30 minutes under no load to shrink the yarn. After air drying, the length after shrinkage (L ₁ ) is determined again under the same load as above.
The shrinkage rate is defined by the following formula. Shrinkage rate: S = (L ₀ − L ₁ )/L ₀ ×100 (%) Polyester, polyamide, etc. are preferably used as the polymer forming the fiber of the present invention, but even more Polyester is suitable for improving hand feel. Moreover, there is no problem in adding additives for the purpose of imparting functionality, such as antistatic agents and flame retardants, to the polymer. As a method for obtaining a shrinkage mixed yarn of different fineness of the present invention, each yarn constituting the mixed fiber yarn is discharged from the same or separate spinneret, the yarns are combined and wound at the time of winding, and the yarns of different fineness are mixed in the spinning process. Preferably, a method is employed in which the yarn is made into a mixed fiber yarn, and then the shrinkage rate is differentiated in a drawing step to make a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage. When the yarns are discharged from the same spinneret, it is easy to form three or more mixed yarns having different finenesses and shapes. The method of obtaining a differentially contracted mixed fiber yarn during drawing can be carried out efficiently by using the drawing/twisting machine shown in FIG. That is, when drawing the undrawn yarns 2A and 2B pulled out from the undrawn yarn spools 1A and 1B between the heating supply roller 4 and the drawing roller 6 via the drawing roller 3, only the yarn 2A is drawn on the hot plate. 5 to draw the yarn, and then combine the yarn (mixed fibers) to form a mixed yarn pirn 7.
This is how it turns out. (Examples) Next, the present invention will be described in more detail using examples. Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.02% by weight of titanium oxide and having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 was prepared in the shape shown in Figure 1A, La: 0.12mm, Lb: 0.30.
mm, and a spinneret for triangular cross-section yarn having 12 orifices with an angle θ of 120° between each slit;
The spinning temperature of triangular cross-section yarn was determined using a device in which a spinneret for round cross-section yarn with 30 circular orifices with a hole diameter of 0.2 mm was attached to a separate spindle.
285℃, discharge rate 20.5-28.1g/min,
Spinning temperature of round cross section yarn is 295℃, discharge amount is 8.2~11.3
g/min, and after cooling, the triangular cross-section yarn 12 filaments were divided into 2 groups of 6 filaments each on a winding roller, and the round cross-section yarn 30 filaments were divided into 2 groups of 15 filaments each. With 6 filaments of triangular cross section thread in the guide,
15 filaments of round cross-section yarn, 21 filaments in total, are bundled into one yarn and the winding speed is 1400.
It was wound onto a bobbin consisting of two groups at a speed of m/min. The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in Fig. 2 at a drawing ratio of 2.2 to 3.0 and a drawing temperature of 85.
℃ condition, only the yarn with low shrinkage component is heated to 165℃
The yarn with a high shrinkage component is drawn in a state where it is separated from the hot plate by a guide, and then the fibers are combined and wound up, so that the fibers with different shrinkage rates and 85D/42F consists of a triangular cross-section yarn with a single yarn fineness of 5 denier (D) and a round cross-section yarn of 0.8D in each shrinkage component, and the mixing ratio of triangular cross-section yarn (thick fineness yarn) for both contraction components is approximately 70% by weight. % of different fineness and different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns were obtained. Note that the high shrinkage component of Trial 4 in Table 1 was heat treated at 145° C. using a separately provided hot plate during stretching. The thus obtained mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage was divided into a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component, and the shrinkage percentage of each was measured. In addition, this mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and shrinkage was woven in a habutae structure, and after a series of post-processing, the texture of the fabric surface was compared with that of a regular triangular cross-section yarn habutae, and the evaluation results were obtained. are shown in Table 1.

【table】

[Table] Example 2 In Example-1, the number of orifices of the spinneret was changed to 16 holes for the triangular cross-section yarn and 96 holes for the round cross-section yarn, the spinning temperature for the triangular cross-section yarn was 285°C, and the discharge rate was changed.
32.1 g/min, and the spinning temperature of the round cross-section yarn was
Simultaneously spinning at 295℃ with a discharge rate of 31.2g/min,
After cooling the yarn, a part or all of the filament with a triangular cross section and a part of the filament with a round cross section are divided on a winding roller.
A triangular cross-section yarn and a round cross-section yarn were converged into one thread using a guide and wound onto a bobbin at a winding speed of 1400 m/min. Using the apparatus shown in Figure 2, the undrawn yarn thus obtained was drawn at a stretching ratio of 2.6 and a stretching temperature of 85°C, and only the yarn containing the low shrinkage component was heated to 165°C. After stretching in active contact with the plate, the yarn is mixed and rolled up, and the single yarn fineness of each shrinkage component is determined.
With 5D triangular cross section yarn and 0.8D round cross section yarn, the mixing ratio of triangular cross section yarn (thick fineness yarn) for both shrinkage components is approximately
Unlike 12, 36, 59, 100% by weight, the yarn fineness is approx.
A mixed yarn of 85D with different fineness and different shrinkage was obtained. Example 1 The thus obtained mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage
The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] Note: The evaluation criteria in the table were evaluated in the same manner as in Example-1. Example 3 The number of orifices of the spinneret in Example-1 was changed to 40 holes for both the triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn, the spinning temperature for the triangular cross-section yarn was 285°C, and the discharge rate was 24.2 ~
The spinning speed was 97.1g/min, the spinning temperature of the round cross-section yarn was 295℃,
Spinning at the same time with a discharge rate of 11.2 to 32.4 g/min,
After cooling, a part of the filament of 40 triangular cross-section yarns and a part of the filament of 40 round cross-section yarns are divided on a winding roller, and then the triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn are combined into one yarn by a guide. It was focused and wound onto a bobbin at a winding speed of 1400 m/min. Using the apparatus shown in Figure 2, the undrawn yarn thus obtained was drawn at a stretching ratio of 2.6 and a stretching temperature of 85°C, and only the yarn containing the low shrinkage component was heated to 165°C. After drawing in active contact with the board, the yarns are mixed and the triangular cross-section yarn and the round cross-section yarn have different single yarn finenesses, and both shrinkage components are 70% by weight for the triangular cross-section yarn and 30% by weight for the round cross-section yarn. A mixed yarn with different shrinkage of different fineness and yarn fineness of 85 denier was obtained at a mixing ratio of % by weight. Example 1 The thus obtained mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage
The evaluation results are shown in Tables 3 and 4. In addition, from Trial-9 to Trial-12, the discharge rate of triangular cross-section yarn (thick fineness yarn) was 80.9 g/min, and 40
Only 12 of the filaments were collected. In addition, in Trial 13 and Trial 16, the discharge rate of round cross-section yarn (fineness yarn) was set to 14.5 g/min, and only 28 filaments out of 40 filaments were collected.

【table】

【table】

[Table] Note: The evaluation criteria in the table were evaluated in the same manner as in Example-1. Example 4 The same polyethylene terephthalate as in Example-1 was put into one spinneret in the shape shown in FIG. 1B, with La=Ld:
12 orifices with 0.08mm, Lb: 0.50mm, Lc: 1.1mm, α: 50°, shape as shown in Figure 1 A, La: 0.08mm,
36 orifices with Lb: 0.22mm and θ: 120°, total
Using a spinneret with 48 holes, spinning temperature: 295°C,
Spinning speed: 1400m/min, discharge amount: 34.4g/min
After cooling, the former flat cross-section yarn (12 filaments) is divided into two groups of 6 filaments each on a winding roller,
After dividing the 36 filaments into two groups of 18 filaments each, a guide bundles 6 filaments of flat cross-section yarn and 18 filaments of triangular cross-section yarn, a total of 24 filaments, into one yarn, and creates a bobbin consisting of two groups. I rolled it up. Using the apparatus shown in Figure 2, the undrawn yarn thus obtained was drawn at a stretching ratio of 2.6 and a stretching temperature of 85°C, and only the yarn containing the low shrinkage component was heated to 165°C. The yarn, which is in active contact with the plate and has a high shrinkage component, is drawn while being separated from the hot plate using a guide, and then mixed and wound into yarns, with a high shrinkage component of 25.2% and a low shrinkage component of 5.6%. It has a shrinkage rate of , and the single yarn fineness of each shrinkage component is 5D and 0.7D.
A mixed fiber yarn of 85D/48F with different shrinkage of different fineness was obtained. In addition,
For both shrinkage components, the mixed fiber ratio was 70% by weight for the flat cross-section yarn with a single yarn fineness of 5D, and the mixed fiber ratio for the triangular cross-section yarn with a single yarn fineness of 0.7D was 30% by weight. This mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage is woven in a plain weave structure as warp and weft, and then relaxed scouring.
25% weight reduction processing, preset, dyeing and final set. As a result of evaluating the fabric thus obtained, it was found to be a silk-like fabric with excellent dryness, fluffiness, and luster. Example 5 For a solution of 1 g/100 c.c. in 96% sulfuric acid at 25°C
Using nylon 6 whose relative viscosity measured in
After spinning at 33.7 g/min and cooling, the 12 filaments of the flat cross section yarn are divided into 2 groups of 6 filaments each on a winding roller.
After dividing the 36 filaments into two groups of 18 filaments each, a guide bundles 6 filaments of flat cross-section yarn and 18 filaments of triangular cross-section yarn, a total of 24 filaments, into one yarn, and creates a bobbin consisting of two groups. I rolled it up. The thus obtained undrawn yarn was drawn using the apparatus shown in Fig. 2 under conditions of a drawing ratio of 2.52 and a drawing temperature of room temperature. The yarn with a high shrinkage component is drawn while being separated from the hot plate by a guide, and then the fibers are mixed and wound to form a high shrinkage component of 17.0% and a high shrinkage component of 5.2%. It has a shrinkage rate and the single yarn fineness of each shrinkage component is 5D and 0.7D.
A mixed fiber yarn of 85D/48F with different shrinkage of different fineness was obtained. In addition, for both shrinkage components, the fiber mixture ratio was 70% for the yarn with flat cross-section yarn of 5D, and the mixture fiber ratio was 30% for the yarn with triangular cross-section yarn of 0.7D. This mixed fiber yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage is woven in a plain weave structure as warp and weft, and then Relax scouring 25
% reduction processing, preset, dyeing, and final set. As a result of evaluating the fabric thus obtained, it was found to be a silk-like fabric with excellent dryness, fluffiness, and luster. (Effects of the Invention) The mixed yarn of different fineness and different shrinkage of the present invention has thick yarn and fine yarn mixed in the low shrinkage component that controls the texture of woven or knitted fabrics, so it has firmness, stiffness, dry feel, and drape. The present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric that satisfies the contradictory properties of elasticity, softness, and fluffiness, and has a refreshing dry feel and lightness due to rich fluffiness that are not found in conventional synthetic fibers. It becomes possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that provides a comfortable feeling when worn.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of an orifice for spinning a thick yarn and a cross section of the spun yarn in the present invention. Figure 1A: Orifice shape of the triangular cross-section yarn used in the example of the present invention, Figure 1B: Orifice shape of the flat cross-section yarn used in the example of the present invention, Figure 1C: Figure 1A The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn spun from the orifice, Figure 1D: The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn spun from the orifice B of Figure 1, Figure 2 shows the drawn and twisted yarn used in the production of differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a machine.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn composed of a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component with a shrinkage rate difference of 3% or more, and of the two components, at least the low shrinkage component has a single yarn fineness of 3%. A mixed yarn with different fineness and different shrinkage characterized by containing 20% by weight or more of thick yarn with a denier or more, and 5% by weight or more with a fineness yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less. 2. The mixed fiber yarn of different fineness and shrinkage according to claim 1, wherein a part or all of the thick yarn is a yarn of irregular cross section. 3. The mixed yarn of different fineness and different shrinkage according to claim 2, wherein the cross-sectional shape of part or all of the thick yarn has a non-rotationally symmetrical shape having a substantially linear flat trunk and a protrusion.