JPS6253608B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a polyester irregular cross-section yarn that has particularly excellent gloss and feel. Conventionally, many proposals and efforts have been made to make synthetic fibers, especially polyester fibers, closer to the excellent texture of various natural fibers. Among them, silk-like thread is overwhelmingly superior to others because of its extremely high added value. For example, the cross-section of a single yarn is made into a trilobal irregular cross-section to improve gloss, the fineness of a single yarn is made thinner to give drapability, or the above-mentioned yarns are used to create a differentially shrinkable blended yarn. It is widely known that the surface of the fabric is fluffy and soft. In this way, it has been proposed that the optical and physical properties such as the sliminess and stiffness characteristic of synthetic fibers can be brought closer to the superior performance of real silk through spinning and post-processing technology. Introducing silk-like thread that has been devised to exceed its performance. However, such conventionally known silk-like threads still have drawbacks. In other words, among the types of real silk, the silk-like thread mentioned above is a silk-like thread that resembles the texture of so-called domestic silk thread, and when made into a fabric, it has a rich luster, excellent drape performance, and excellent warmth and fullness. Therefore, it is extremely desirable as a fashion material from autumn to winter, but on the other hand, as a material from spring to summer, it feels too hot, especially in midsummer, even though the material is the same, it has a metallic luster. I had no choice but to accept unfavorable reviews such as , slimy feel, and heavy feeling. Nowadays, the desire to differentiate synthetic fibers is increasing year by year, and it is necessary to take careful consideration to adapt to various trends and seasonal changes. In view of this current situation, the present inventors have also conducted several studies, focusing on the fineness and shape of yarns, polymers, etc. that give silk-like fabrics a refreshing dry feel and lightness. However, I was not always satisfied with the result. For example, when we changed the cross-sectional shape of the yarn from the usual 3-lobed to 6-lobed or 8-lobed yarn to give a dry feel, so-called multi-lobal cross-sectional yarns, the slimy feeling disappeared as the number of protrusions increased. Although it gave a slightly dry feel, the large number of protrusions inhibited light reflection, leading to dullness when dyed. Furthermore, when the cross-sectional shape of the yarn is sharpened to improve the dry feel, the surface of the fabric becomes metallic and has a luster that is not typical of a silk-like fabric. Therefore, using alkali weight loss technology in the post-process, polyester mixed with fine particles of inorganic or organic compounds is made into yarn, and after being made into fabric, the inorganic or organic compounds in the yarn are eluted with an alkaline solution. One possible method is to create fine elution holes on the surface of the strips and use the unevenness to impart a dry feel. When this alkaline treatment method is used, the fine irregularities on the yarn surface considerably improve the dry feeling when the fabric is slid with your fingertips, but the fine irregularities greatly suppress the reflection of light, causing the fabric to dry. The shine completely disappears. In addition, by eluting inorganic or organic compounds in polyester with an alkaline solution, countless fine elution pores are generated on the yarn surface, resulting in an extremely large yarn surface area, which inevitably leads to the formation of an alkaline solution. This results in a disadvantage that the weight loss rate becomes fast, and the weight loss progresses excessively, making it easy for the fabric to become sagging. On the other hand, if the weight loss time using an alkaline solution is shortened in order to eliminate sag, weight loss spots will occur, which will actually deteriorate the quality. The present inventors have discovered that the present invention can be applied even in the high summer season.
As a result of various studies aimed at obtaining a silk-like fabric with a refreshing dry feel and no hard creak, the present invention was arrived at. That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows. A polyester irregular cross-section yarn whose single fibers have a mushroom-shaped cross-section consisting of a triangular umbrella part and a trunk, and which satisfy the following formulas () and (). H(1)≦H(2) …() K(1)≧2K(2) …() H(1): Inside the straight line connecting the two inflection points of the curve that connects the triangular umbrella to the trunk The length of the perpendicular of the triangular umbrella passing through a point. H(2): Length of the perpendicular line between the midpoint and a point that intersects at right angles to the tangent to the tip of the trunk of the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint. K(1): Length of distance between two tangent lines that pass through both end points of the umbrella section and are parallel to the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint. K(2): Within 50% of the length from the tip of the trunk,
The length of the interval between two tangent lines passing through the end points on both sides of the trunk that are parallel to the perpendicular line below the midpoint. As the polyester in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate having ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit is preferably used, but if necessary, as long as it contains 85% or more of this repeating unit, copolymerization with another third component may be used. The effects of the present invention will not be affected in any way even if polyester is used, and furthermore, a quenching agent and other additives are added. Next, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber in the present invention must be mushroom-shaped, consisting of a triangular umbrella and a trunk, and satisfy the relationships of formulas () and (). Formula () defines the length relationship between the umbrella part and the trunk, and this length relationship determines the porosity between single fibers or yarns when the yarn is made into a fabric. , is extremely important. In other words, if the length H(2) of the stem is less than the length H(1) of the cap, when the yarn is bundled, the cap may get stuck in the stem of other single fibers, causing The porosity between the fibers decreases, causing the fabric to swell and become less squeaky. Furthermore, when the trunk length becomes extremely short, the bending stress of the yarn decreases, causing the fabric to lose its elasticity and become sagging. On the other hand, the length of the trunk H(2) is the length of the umbrella part H
If it is above (1), the effect of suppressing the interlocking of single fibers occurs when the yarn is bundled, which inevitably results in a high porosity, and if this yarn is used to make a fabric, it will have a hard material as defined in the present invention. It squeaks, indicating the effect of rich swelling. Next, formula () defines the relationship between the width of the umbrella portion and the width of the trunk, and by satisfying this relationship, a refreshing dry feeling, which is the main objective of the present invention, can be achieved. A silk-like fabric is obtained. In other words, by making the width K(1) of the umbrella part more than twice the width K(2) of the stem, unevenness is generated on the surface of the fabric due to the umbrella part and the stem, and when the fabric is slid with the fingertip, the fingertip This reduces the contact area that is transmitted to the skin, resulting in a dry feel. Also, the width of the umbrella part K(1) is the width of the trunk K(2)
By increasing the porosity to twice or more, the above-mentioned porosity increases, and when it is made into a fabric, it also exhibits the effects of squeaks and bulges. On the other hand, the width of the umbrella part K(1) is 2 of the width of the trunk part K(2).
If it is reduced to less than double, the cross-sectional shape of the single fibers of the yarn becomes flat, and when it is made into cloth, the unevenness on the surface disappears and the slimy feel increases. It is not suitable as such. Furthermore, in this case, the light reflection angles of the umbrella part and the trunk become close, which causes variations in the surface of the fabric using this thread, which is also unfavorable from the viewpoint of gloss. In this way, the width of the umbrella part K(1) is the width of the trunk K(2)
By increasing the amount by twice or more, a silk-like fabric with a refreshing dry feel as defined in the present invention can be obtained. However, the length of the trunk and the width of the umbrella do not need to be infinitely long. That is, if the length is longer than necessary, the hole area of the orifice will inevitably increase when spinning the yarn, which has the disadvantage of making it more likely to cause problems such as yarn breakage during spinning. Therefore, the length of the executive H(2)
is within twice the length H(1) of the umbrella part, more preferably
Within 1.5 times, the width of the umbrella part K(2) is the width of the trunk K(1)
It is necessary to keep it within 6 times, more preferably about 3 to 5 times. Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the drawings. Figure 1 shows the explanation of the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of the polyester irregular cross-section yarn of the present invention, and the H(1), H(2) and K(1), K(2) used in the above formula. It is a schematic diagram for explanation. In Figure 1, the distance () from the midpoint O of the straight line AB connecting the two inflection points A and B that connects the canopy to the trunk to the intersection P of the perpendicular line with the edge of the canopy is defined as The length of the part is H(1), and the distance to the point Q where the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint O of the straight line AB toward the tip of the trunk and the tangent MN touching the tip D of the trunk intersect perpendicularly () Let be the length of the trunk H(2). Next, the straight line OP that touches both end points E and F of the umbrella part
The distance between tangents X and X' that are parallel to is defined as the width K(1) of the umbrella. In addition, a straight line touching the end points S and T on both sides of the trunk within a 50% length range from the tip of the trunk to the umbrella part.
Let the interval between tangents Z and Z' parallel to OQ be the width of the trunk K(2). The measurements of H(1), H(2), K(1), and K(2) defined above can be performed by suitably enlarging a cross-sectional photograph of a single fiber taken using a microscope. Note that FIG. 1 shows the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber of the irregular cross-section yarn according to the present invention, and for convenience, it is drawn slightly asymmetrically, but the present invention is not necessarily limited to FIG. It doesn't matter if it's from. True wild silk thread can be complex, with a mixture of various irregular cross-sectional shapes, but it is mostly slightly asymmetrical, giving it a squeaky feel and at the same time a smooth, dry feel. It is estimated that In addition, as shown in FIG. 1, the mushroom shape in the present invention refers to a shape with a slight bulge, preferably straight or curved, in the narrowing of the trunk from the cap.
It narrows rapidly to form a trunk, and the cross-sectional shape shown in the schematic diagram in Figure 2 can also be said to be mushroom-shaped.
The shape of the umbrella part is semicircular and the trunk is short, which is extremely different in character from the mushroom-shaped irregular cross-section yarn of the present invention. Or, when made into a fabric, the single fibers tend to get stuck together, which inevitably reduces the porosity between the single fibers, making it impossible to obtain a fabric that is squeaky or fluffy. In addition, in the case of Figure 2, since the part from the cap to the trunk gradually becomes thinner, the effect of unevenness on the fabric surface due to the presence of the cap and trunk is extremely small, and as a result, the fabric surface becomes thinner. If you slide it with your fingertips, the slimy feeling will increase and it will be far from the refreshing dry feeling of the present invention. Furthermore, since there is little change in the angle of reflection of light, it exhibits a metallic, glaring luster, which is undesirable. In addition, regarding the regulation of the length and width between the umbrella part and the trunk in the present invention, it is preferable that all the single fibers have the same shape to some extent in order to prevent the single fibers from getting stuck together. However, if it is desired to provide variety in the gloss and feel, it is possible to make an appropriate difference within the range of the above formulas () and (). 3A and 3B show examples of the orifice of the spinneret used to obtain the irregular cross-section yarn of the present invention. An orifice dimension suitable for obtaining the irregular cross-section yarn according to the present invention will be explained using FIG. 3A as an example. In the figure, L(0) is the slit length corresponding to a portion forming a part of the umbrella and the trunk, and W(0) is the width thereof. Also, on the other hand, L
(1) and L(2) indicate the slit length corresponding to the portion forming the umbrella portion, and W(1) and W(2) indicate the width thereof. In order to produce polyester fibers having a very specific cross-sectional shape according to the present invention, the above L(0) must be
1.0~3.0mm, W(0) is 0.03~0.10mm, and L
(1), L(2) is 0.1 to 1.5mm, W(1), W
Those with (2) of 0.03 to 0.10 mm are preferably used. The ratio of the length and width between the umbrella portion and the trunk of the present invention is determined not only by the dimensions of the orifice described above but also by the discharge amount per orifice hole during spinning, the spinning temperature, and the cooling conditions for the discharged yarn. Needless to say, it changes depending on various spinning conditions. FIGS. 3C and 3D show plan views of the spinning orifice used for spinning the irregular cross-section yarn of the comparative example. FIG. 4 schematically shows an example of a drawing machine used for drawing polyester multifilament undrawn yarn obtained by a normal spinning method using a spinneret having an orifice as shown in FIG. It is a diagram. In the figure, 1 is an undrawn yarn, 2 is a supply roller,
3 is a heating plate, 4 is a stretching roller, and 5 is a winding body (pirn). Undrawn polyester multifilament yarn 1
is wound around the supply roller 2 and the stretching roller 4 several times each, heated and stretched via the heating plate 3,
It is wound up as a winding body (pirn) 5. When the polyester fibers obtained in this way are made into cloth, a cloth with a hard creak, a refreshing dry feeling, and a rich fluffiness that was not seen in conventional silk-like yarns can be obtained, so it can be used even in midsummer. The polyester irregular cross-section yarn of the present invention can be said to be an extremely novel silk-like yarn. Next, the present invention will be specifically explained using examples. Example 1 Contains 0.2% titanium oxide and has an intrinsic viscosity [η]
0.65 polyethylene terephthalate, the third
A spinneret with 48 orifice holes shaped as shown in Figure A, with orifice dimensions L(1), L(0), L
Keeping the sum of (2) constant, the orifice dimension L
Using a spinneret with various modifications to (1), the spinning speed was 1.400 m/min, the spinning temperature was 290°C, and the discharge rate was 34.2
The fibers were spun under the conditions of 0.7 m ³ /min of yarn cooling air and a yarn cooling air flow rate of 0.7 m 3 /min, and undrawn yarns having different length ratios of the umbrella portion and the trunk portion were collected. In addition, an undrawn yarn was wound for comparison using an orifice spinneret shown in FIGS. 3C and 3D, which has been conventionally used for silk-like yarns. The thus obtained undrawn yarn was used as a supplied yarn and was drawn using a conventional drawing machine shown in FIG. 4 to obtain a yarn having a fineness of 75 deniers and a filament count of 48 filaments. Next, the obtained threads are used as warp and weft,
Weaving was carried out using a habutae structure, and the resulting fabric was subjected to post-processes such as scouring, presetting, alkaline reduction, and dyeing to obtain plain dyed fabrics of the same color. Table 1 summarizes the results of three-level evaluation of this fabric in terms of dry feel, squeak, bulge, and stiffness.

【table】

[Table] However, the evaluation was conducted assuming that the items would be worn during midsummer, and the items were ranked as follows. [A]: Very good, [B]: Good, [C]: Bad Example 2 Using the same polyethylene terephthalate as in Example 1, a spinneret with 48 orifices in the shape of FIG. 3A was used. The dimensions L(1) and L(0) of the orifice are kept constant, and the orifice dimension L
(2) and spinnerets with various orifice angles θ were used to perform spinning, drawing, weaving, and post-processing in the same manner as in Example 1 to produce plain-dyed habutae fabrics with various cap widths. Obtained. The obtained fabric was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1 in terms of dry feel, creak, etc. The results are summarized in Table 2.

【table】

【table】 [Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a single fiber of a polyester irregular cross-section yarn according to the present invention, FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a single fiber of a conventional irregular cross-section yarn, and FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a single fiber of a conventional irregular cross-section yarn of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a plan view showing specific examples of preferred orifice shapes [A, B] and orifice shapes [C, D] used for spinning yarns with irregular cross-sections in comparative examples. FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a drawing machine used to draw an undrawn yarn having an irregular cross section.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A polyester irregular cross-section yarn whose single fibers have a mushroom-shaped cross-section consisting of a triangular umbrella and a trunk, and which satisfy the following formulas () and (). H(1)≦H(2) …() K(1)≧2K(2) …() H(1): Inside the straight line connecting the two inflection points of the curve that connects the triangular umbrella to the trunk The length of the perpendicular of the triangular umbrella passing through a point. H(2): Length of the perpendicular line between the midpoint and a point that intersects at right angles to the tangent to the tip of the trunk of the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint. K(1): Length of distance between two tangent lines that pass through both end points of the umbrella section and are parallel to the perpendicular line drawn from the midpoint. K(2): Within 50% of the length from the tip of the trunk,
The length of the interval between two tangent lines passing through the end points on both sides of the trunk that are parallel to the perpendicular line below the midpoint.