JPH02221411A - Polyester multifilament yarn having flat cross section and woven or knit fabric using the same yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide the subject filament yarn having a specific matting agent content and a specified flatness and satisfying a relation between the content of the matting agent and the flatness in a constant range with good flexibility, rich draping property and elegant luster. CONSTITUTION:A polyester thermoplastic polymer, etc., is melt-spun into the objective polyester multifilament yarn which has the content (y) of a matting agent such as titanium dioxide or magnesium oxide in an amount of 0.3-10.0wt.% and a flatness (x) of <=2.0 wherein the relation of the content (y) of the matting agent with the flatness (x) is satisfied with the equation and which is suitable for blouses or one-piece dresses for ladies, formal wears for gentlemen or ladies, etc.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention provides a polyester multifilament yarn ( The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric constructed from the polyester flat cross-section yarn (hereinafter referred to as a polyester flat cross-section yarn) and the polyester flat cross-section yarn.

[Conventional technology]

Woven and knitted fabrics for clothing, interior decoration, and clothing materials that use yarn with a flat cross-section have a unique luster and can be given a unique texture compared to those that also use yarn with a circular cross-section. Because of this, it is prized for various purposes. On the other hand, polyester fibers containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component have been favorably used in clothing applications due to their easy care properties and dry properties.

In the past, many polyester flat cross-section yarns have been proposed in an attempt to impart to this polyester fiber the luster and transparency of flat cross-section yarns, and the soft feel brought about by mechanical anisotropy. 42-5250
No. 62-104918 proposes a flat cross-section yarn that exhibits optical aesthetics such as luster and beading effect. However, when these flat cross section yarns are woven, the flat cross section system alone develops a sticky feeling.
Because it is uncomfortable to the touch as a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, it could only be used for very specific purposes.

On the other hand, JP-A-53-94623 and JP-A-55
Japanese Patent No. 158330 proposes a technique for improving light-shielding properties by incorporating a matting agent. However, when a matting agent is added at a high concentration with the aim of achieving high speed of light, it not only causes poor spinning properties, but also results in the resulting fibers having a dull, powdery texture, which makes it difficult to develop the fibers. Its uses will be limited. In particular, in the field of thin fabrics such as women's outerwear fabrics, where light-shielding properties are strongly required,
When a matting agent is added at a high concentration or when the weave density is high, flexibility and drapability are lost, and a product that is practically satisfactory cannot be obtained.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present invention has a material that is flexible, has rich drapability, has an elegant luster, and exhibits excellent light-shielding properties even when used for thin fabrics, which could not be achieved in the past. The object of the present invention is to provide a polyester flat cross-section yarn and a polyester woven or knitted fabric made from the same.

[Means to solve the problem]

The object of the present invention described above is that the content (y) of the matting agent is 0.
．． 3% by weight or more and 10.0% by weight or less, flatness (x)
is 2.0 or more, and the content (y) of the matting agent and the flatness (x) satisfy the relationship of the following formula, and a knitted fabric made of this polyester flat cross-section yarn. It can be achieved.

(1, 2 Approximately rectangular with an arc shape and a substantially straight long side, or a substantially convex lens shape with an arc shape on the long side, or an elliptical outer peripheral shape, and is composed of a smooth curve or a smooth curve and a straight line. .

The flatness (x) of the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention is determined by taking the longest line segment passing through the center of gravity G of the filament and connecting two points on the outer periphery as the long axis, and the shortest line passing through the center of gravity G of the filament. If minutes are the short axis M, then this is the ratio of the long sleeve length to the short axis length M, that is, the value is expressed as L/M.

In the present invention, the flatness (x) is an important factor that has a close relationship with the flattening effect, especially the gloss effect and the sticky feeling. That is, in order to increase the diffused reflection on the flat filament yarn and fully exhibit the flattening effect and light shielding effect that are the objectives of the present invention, the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention has a flatness (x) of 2. It is essential that it is 0 or more. In addition, in order to exhibit an extremely excellent light-shielding effect with an emphasized glittering and beautiful luster when made into a thin fabric, the flatness (x) should be 3.0 or more, preferably 4.0 or more. It is better to

In addition, the flatness (x) is the matting agent content (y) (weight%)
In the relationship, (1,2x-9,3)≦y, that is, by transforming the above equation
9.3)/1.2) or less.

If the flat cross-section yarn has a degree of flatness (x) exceeding ((y+9.3)/1.23, a dazzling luster will appear, and the light-shielding effect will also decrease because the light transmittance of the single yarn increases. Furthermore, when such flat cross-section yarn is drawn from an undrawn yarn to make a drawn yarn, the undrawn yarn unwound from the package is not the same as the drawn yarn. There is a disadvantage that untwisting accumulates before reaching the yarn feeding section, causing yarn breakage and uneven stretching.The flatness (x) of the flat cross-section yarn is more preferably ((y + 6.4)/ 1
．． 2) The following is preferable.

As long as the flatness of the polyester flat cross section yarn of the present invention is the same, it may have a flat surface as shown in FIG. In order to be effective, Figure 1 (b)
It is preferable to use a convex lens shape with a swollen central portion as shown in FIG.

This convex lens-shaped flat cross-section yarn has a single yarn fineness as shown in Figure 1 (
The radius of curvature R is 0.008X d.
``'' (111 m) or more has a particularly good flattening effect. Furthermore, the radius of curvature R is 0, IX d "" (11 m
) and above, 100. OX d "" (ms+) or less has a calm gloss effect.

This radius of curvature R is 0.3X d "" (am) or more,
30, OX d "" (m) or less is more preferable, where d indicates single yarn fineness.

The content of the matting agent in the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention must be 0.3% by weight or more. If it is less than 0.3% by weight, even if the polyester flat cross-section yarn satisfies the minimum flatness of 2.0 to exhibit the flattening effect, it will not be possible to sufficiently eliminate the sticky feeling, and the transparent It is preferable that the content of the matting agent is 2.0% by weight or more. If the content of the matting agent exceeds %, the yarn strength of the flat cross-section yarn will decrease and fuzz will easily occur during weaving, and the dispersibility of the matting agent will deteriorate, resulting in defects such as uneven dyeing. It becomes easier. From the viewpoint of producing polyester flat cross-section yarn, the filter medium becomes significantly clogged during spinning, making it difficult to stably spin the yarn for a long period of time. Therefore, the content of this matting agent is 7% by weight.
The following is more preferable.

The polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention that satisfies the relationship between the flatness and the matting agent content as described above can alone exhibit the desired effects of the present invention. However, if you want a more moist texture than a powdery texture, it is preferable that the relationship between the flatness and the erasing agent content is y≦(1,2x +1.6), and Preferably y≦(1,2x
-= 0.8).

FIG. 3 shows the relationship between the flatness and the matting agent content defined in the present invention.

The reason why ordinary polyester flat cross-section yarns are sticky is that the area that comes into contact with the skin such as fingertips when touched is
This is due to the fact that it is significantly larger than the round cross-section yarn. On the other hand, the reason why the flat cross-section yarn of the present invention has no flattened feel and has a moist touch is not clear. The surface of each single filament that makes up the polyester flat cross-section yarn probably has minute irregularities due to the matting agent, which reduces the contact area per unit fineness when touched, and the matting agent This is thought to be due to the large change in the surface friction characteristics of the single yarn due to the small surface adhesion energy of the single yarn.

The matting agent used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it exhibits the effects of the present invention and can be stably added to polyester with good dispersibility. for example,
Examples of ζ include titanium oxide, magnesium oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon oxide, antimony oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, lead tungstate, and calcium tungstate. From the viewpoint of dispersibility in polyester, titanium oxide, silicon oxide, and zinc oxide are preferable, and titanium oxide is more preferable.

The average particle diameter of these matting agents is preferably 1μ or less, preferably 0.7μ or less, from the viewpoint of dispersibility.Furthermore, in consideration of silk-spinning property, the maximum particle diameter of the matting agent is It is preferably 5μ or less, more preferably 3μ or less.

The polyester thermoplastic polymer used in the present invention is a polymer whose main component is polyethylene terephthalate, which is obtained by a known polymerization method.The main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate within a range that does not impair the purpose of the present invention. Other third components may be copolymerized with the polyester. Examples of the third component include dicarboxylic acids such as Chellaic acid, sebacic acid, phthalic acid, and isophthalic acid, glycols such as diethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, and bisphenol. Examples include, but are not limited to, phenols such as A or EO adducts of bisphenol A, oxycarboxylic acids such as hydroxybenzoic acid, and metal sulfonate groups such as 5-sojasulfoisophthalate. may also be introduced, and copolymerization of multiple types of components is also possible.

Additionally, additives such as an antioxidant, a fluorescent whitening agent, an ultraviolet absorber, an antistatic agent, and a twist retardant may be added within a range that does not impair the object of the present invention.

In addition, when the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention is used for normal clothing applications, it is used as a multifilament yarn consisting of a plurality of single filaments. In order to reduce the number of lines and fully exhibit the gloss effect, the number of lines is preferably 72 or less, more preferably 36 or less. It is also possible to use a mix of finenesses in which the single filaments or groups of single filaments constituting the multifilament yarn have different finenesses, or even a mix of flatness.

By setting the single yarn fineness to 0.7d or more, it is possible to sufficiently obtain the specular reflectance characteristic of flat cross-section systems, and also to reduce mutual reflection inside the multifilament yarn between single yarns. This is advantageous because a good glossiness can be obtained.If the single yarn fineness is 0.7d or more, it is possible to achieve a flatness that produces a flattening effect without applying special spinning operations such as forced rapid cooling. It also has the advantage of being able to produce yarn with good spinnability.More preferably, it is 1 d or more, and in terms of flexibility, it is 7 d or less, more preferably 5 d.
The following is good.

By making the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention into a so-called differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, which is a combination of a plurality of single filaments or a group of single filaments having different spring shrinkage rates, an even larger fluff can be obtained. This is preferable because it can give a sense of feeling.

Further, the thin fabric using the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention is characterized by excellent transparency resistance. In other words, until now it has been thought that polyester flat cross-section yarn has high light transmittance and is not transparent.
Fabrics using yarns with a flat cross section that satisfy the relationship between flatness and flattening agent content specified in the present invention can be fabricated using yarns with a flat cross section woven at the same density, such as yarns with a circular cross section or yarns with a Y cross section. It has superior transparency properties compared to textiles.

Fig. 4 shows the method for making the film transparent by using typical round cross-section yarn, Y-section yarn, and flat cross-section yarn of the present invention, which have the same fineness and the same number of filaments except for the difference in the content of titanium oxide. is a measurement of ΔL, which is a measure of sex. The flat cross-section yarn having a matting agent content within the range of the present invention is
It has excellent anti-transparent properties compared to other cross-sectional shapes.Normally, the means to prevent the transparency of textiles is to use yarn with light-shielding properties or to increase the weaving density. Even if the yarn has light-shielding properties, if the weaving density is below a certain level, sufficient transparency cannot be achieved. Increasing the weaving density increases the effectiveness of transparent transparent fabrics in their prevention properties, but they have the disadvantage of lacking the suppleness and softness required for fabrics, especially thin fabrics. Therefore, it is practically impossible to increase the weave density with the aim of achieving transparency.On the other hand, when the flat cross-section yarn of the present invention is used, sufficient transparency can be achieved without increasing the weave density. However, it is possible to obtain a soft fabric with flexibility.

In addition, it has been found that the fabric using yarns with a flat cross section according to the present invention is excellent in the so-called "waisted" feel, which conventional fabrics using yarns with a flat cross section of polyester lack. The reason for this is not necessarily clear, but fabrics using yarns with a flat cross-section usually have a large contact area at the intersection of the warp and weft, so when bent, the raw yarn is restrained at the intersection, resulting in a film. This results in a fabric that does not have sheet-like drape properties and does not have the so-called "fold" feeling. However, the woven fabric using the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention exhibits an excellent texture with a "loose" feeling because the friction characteristics of the yarn surface are different from those of conventional flat cross-section yarn due to the effect of the matting agent. It is assumed that.

The woven or knitted fabric using the flat cross-section yarn of the present invention has an elegant and unique luster, and has excellent moisturizing and anti-transparent properties.
In addition, it has a supple and soft texture with a floppy feel, so it can be applied to all kinds of clothing.In particular, women's blouses and dresses, where the luster that takes advantage of the flattening effect is preferred, as well as men's and women's wear. Suitable for formal wear applications.

Next, a method for manufacturing the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention will be explained.

The method for producing the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention is not limited to a specific method. For example, a ferrule with a flat hole shape as shown in FIGS. 2(a) and 2(b) is used to discharge the molten polymer according to a normal spinning method.

Here, the flatness of the nozzle hole means the slit width of the flat nozzle hole, the slit length a, and the slit length a, as shown in Fig. 2 (a) and (b).
Say the ratio a/b.

The polymer flow thus discharged from the spinneret has a spinning speed of 8
It can be obtained by winding the yarn at a speed of about 00 s/sin to 4500 m/+++in and stretching the resulting undrawn yarn using a normal stretching device. Here, a so-called thick and thin yarn is produced by a method of stretching at a low stretching ratio of 30% to 60% of the breaking stretching ratio of the undrawn yarn.
A smooth texture can be imparted to the resulting woven or knitted fabric. Alternatively, after spinning, the fiber may be stretched between stretching rollers in a so-called DSD system in which the fiber is stretched without being wound up.

Next, the method for producing a woven or knitted article according to the present invention will be described in detail.

The woven or knitted fabric in the present invention can be manufactured by applying a conventional weaving and knitting method for polyester multifilament yarn.

By using the polyester flat cross-section yarn of the present invention in either the warp or the weft to form a woven fabric, the effects of the present invention can be exhibited. If the polyester flat cross section yarn of the present invention is used for both the warp and weft, -
This is advantageous because the effects of the layers can be exhibited.

In addition, in order to fully exhibit the luster effect of the multifilament polyester flat cross section yarn of the present invention, the twist before weaving should be 800 T/M or less, more preferably 60 T/M or less.
0 T/M or less, more preferably 400 T/M
It is preferable that the twist is M or less.

Further, by performing alkali weight loss treatment, a supple texture can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. Appropriate tension,
In order to have firmness, the weight loss rate is preferably 10% or less, more preferably 6% or less.

〔Example〕

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples.

Prior to the explanation, a method for measuring characteristics used in the present invention will be described.

A woven or knitted fabric made of round-section polyester yarn containing 0.25% by weight of titanium oxide and having the same fineness and the same number of filaments as the sample, which is usually used as a standard variety, was used as a sample piece.
A sensory test was conducted using J as a standard, and the results were ranked into five levels: "extremely poor,""poor,""fair,""good," and "extremely good."

1 piece of yarn with 50 denier - 24 filaments as the warp and 75 denier - 36 filament as the weft.
Using a plain weave fabric with a weaving density of 0.05 threads/inch and 85 threads/inch, a white material and a black material were placed behind the sample and measured using an SM color computer manufactured by Suga Test Instruments ■, and the respective L values were determined. The difference ΔL was used as a measure of transparency.

Example 1 Intrinsic viscosity in orthochlorophenol at 25°C is 0.66
A polyethylene terephthalate chip having a titanium oxide content of the matting agent as shown in Table 1 was discharged from a spinneret with a convex lens-shaped flat hole having a spindle flatness of 30 and a radius of curvature R of 20 (■-). The yarn was wound at a spinning speed of 1500 s/min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 75 denier (hereinafter abbreviated as D) and 36 filaments (hereinafter abbreviated as F).

This undrawn yarn was drawn at a drawing speed of 50 using a normal drawing device.
0m+/sin, heating pin temperature 90°C, stretching ratio 3,
1x, Table 1? A yarn with a flat cross section of Ja2 to Na5 was obtained. All levels of flatness were 5.3.

These flat cross-section yarns are used for the warp and weft, and are made into plain fabrics with a weave density of 105 threads/inch and 85 threads/inch, respectively.They are relaxed refined in 98°C water, dry heat set at 200°C, and have a 5% It was made into a woven fabric by performing alkali weight reduction treatment. Table 1 shows the evaluation of ΔL, which is a measure of glossiness, moist feeling, and transparency of the obtained woven fabric.

At all levels, these woven fabrics have a beautiful sparkling luster characteristic of flat cross-section fabrics, but on the other hand, they do not have the sticky feel characteristic of flat cross-section fabrics, and have a moist touch. The texture was also soft and supple with a "chest" feel. Furthermore, as can be seen from the ΔL results, the anti-transparent property was also excellent.

Comparative Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate polymer having a different titanium oxide content than Example 1 was spun and drawn under the same conditions as Example 1 to obtain a flat cross-section yarn. The obtained flat cross-section yarn was woven and processed in the same manner as in Example 1.

The Nal fabrics in Table 1 have a glittering luster,
It had an extremely sticky feel and had a hard, cored feel, which was poor in texture. In addition, Na6 with an extremely high level of matting agent content lacked gloss and had an extremely poor rough touch texture.

(Margin below this page) Example 2 0 hole flatness is 4.6.35.40.45.50.55
and 60, as shown in Table 2, undrawn yarns of 75D and 24F with different titanium oxide contents were obtained by the same spinning operation as in Example 1 using a spinneret with a radius of curvature R of 20 or 30. . After drawing these undrawn yarns under the same drawing conditions as in Example 1, the obtained flat cross-section yarns were woven and processed in the same manner as in Example 1. The titanium oxide content and flatness of the drawn yarn are shown in Table 2.

In the obtained woven fabric, a flattening effect, particularly a remarkable glossiness, was observed as the degree of flatness increased. Nα8. which satisfies the relationship between matting agent content (weight %) and flatness specified in the present invention.
9.12.13.15.17 all had a beautiful sparkle and a moist touch without any stickiness, and the texture was "soft and supple with a floppy feel." The results show that the anti-transparent properties are excellent and desirable.

Comparative Example 2 In contrast to Example 2, the content of titanium oxide and the degree of flatness are the second.
By the same spinning operation as in Example 2, except for the differences as shown in the table, the fibers shown in Table 2 were obtained.
and 1B, drawn yarns of 148D and 24F were obtained, respectively.

These were woven and processed in the same manner as in Example 2.

The evaluation results of the obtained woven and knitted fabrics are also listed in Table 2.

K7.11 and 16 each had poor glossiness, and Nα10.14 and 18 had strong glare and stickiness, respectively, and were poor in texture.

(Margins below this page) [Effects of the Invention] The flat cross-section yarn of the present invention maintains the glittering luster unique to the use of flat cross-section yarn, and has a unique moist touch that does not have a sticky feel, giving it a “dead” texture. ``You can obtain beautiful woven and knitted fabrics that are soft and supple, have excellent transparency, and are especially suitable for women's blouses and dresses, or men's and women's formal wear, where the luster that takes advantage of the flattening effect is preferred. A material suitable for wear can be provided.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1(A) and FIG. 1(B) are a cross-sectional view showing one example of a typical spinneret hole shape for manufacturing the flat cross-section yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 1(A), respectively. Schematic cross-sectional views showing the shape of the flat cross-section yarn obtained from the spinneret, FIGS. 2(a) and 2(b) respectively show the spinneret hole shape for producing other flat cross-section yarns of the present invention. A cross-sectional view, a schematic cross-sectional view of the flattened cross-sectional yarn obtained from the die in FIG. FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the relationship between titanium oxide (matting agent) content (% by weight) and ΔL. G...center of gravity, L...long axis passing through the center of gravity G of the flat cross-section filament and connecting two points on the outer circumference, M...also short axis, R...radius of curvature, a...・Slit length, b・
...Slit width.

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) The content (y) of the matting agent is 0.3% by weight or more, 1
0.0% by weight or less, the flatness (x) is 2.0 or more, and the content (y) of the matting agent and the flatness (x) satisfy the relationship of the following formula. Polyester multifilament yarn. (1.2x-9.3)≦y (2) The content (y) of the matting agent is 0.3% by weight or more, 1
0.0% by weight or less, the flatness (x) is 2.0 or more, and the content (y) of the matting agent and the flatness (x) satisfy the relationship of the following formula. A woven or knitted fabric made of polyester multifilament yarn. (1.2x-9.3)≦y