JP2010236136A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a low air-permeable lightweight woven fabric designed to have good wearing comfortableness such as light weight, thin thickness, soft texture and wearing comfort while satisfying down retention and tear strength, and suitable as a side cloth of a down jacket. <P>SOLUTION: The low air-permeable lightweight woven fabric is produced by using two or more nylon multifilament false twist yarns having a total fineness of 5-15 dtex in paralleled state as a warp of the woven fabric and subjecting the fabric to calendering treatment. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a low-breathing lightweight woven fabric, and is a woven fabric suitable as a side of a bulky stuffing such as down.

  Bird feathers called down are bulky and easy to hold air, so they have excellent heat insulation properties and are often used in winter clothing. Since feathers can easily come out of clothing through a slight gap, it is common to use a side of a low-breathable fabric to hold down and prevent falling out. Since the knitted fabric has a loop structure, the gap between the yarns is large and it is not suitable for the present application requiring a low air flow rate.

  For example, when the fabric density is increased and pressing with a calendar is performed, the fiber surface becomes flat and the air permeability of the fabric decreases. However, when the fabric density is increased, the weight of the fabric increases, which makes it difficult to make a lightweight fabric. In addition, attempts have been made to soften the fabric using bulky processed yarn in order to prevent texture hardening by increasing the density, but there is a problem that it is easy to ventilate through the gap between the bulky yarn (patent) References 1, 2).

  In order to reduce the weight of high-density fabrics, a study has been made to use a yarn having a low fineness for a part or the entire surface. However, as the yarn becomes thinner, the strength of the yarn decreases. And there is a restriction not to dare to perform resin processing such as water repellency and antistatic required for the down jacket side ground. In addition, when yarns having different fineness are arranged and reinforced, there is a problem that a pattern is always attached to the fabric, and the texture of the fabric becomes hard due to the reinforcing yarn that is a thicker yarn (Patent Documents 3 and 4).

Japanese Patent No. 3835616 JP 2003-138449 A Japanese Patent No. 2653919 Japanese Patent No. 3797486

  The present invention eliminates the disadvantages of the prior art and satisfies the down-holding ability, breathability and tear strength required for down jackets, while pursuing the wearing comfort of lightness, thinness and good comfort. It relates to a lightweight fabric.

  In order to solve this problem, the inventors have intensively studied and, as a result, have come to make the present invention. In other words, nylon multifilament false twisted yarn with a total fineness of 5 to 15 dtex is used as a down jacket side that can be comfortably worn by calendaring and using two or more warp yarns of the fabric. A suitable fabric is obtained.

  According to the present invention, a low-breathing lightweight woven fabric suitable as a down jacket side fabric or the like can be obtained, and a light, thin, soft, and comfortable down jacket can be obtained while satisfying practical strength.

It is the schematic of the textile cross section before and after calendar processing.

    Since the woven fabric of the present invention needs to have low breathability and light weight, the woven structure is preferably a plain weave, a woven weave, and a ripstop weave which is a combination of a plain weave and a woven weave. Twill weave, satin weave and the like are known as woven fabrics having a soft texture, but the fabric weight tends to be heavy.

  As for the fineness of the yarn constituting the woven fabric of the present invention, the total fineness of the warp yarn needs to be 5 to 15 dtex. If the warp yarn exceeds 15 dtex, it is not preferred because it lacks lightness and the fabric texture is somewhat hard. The thinner the warp yarn, the lighter and more flexible fabric is obtained, and the sewn down jacket is easy to move in the cold. However, if the warp yarn is less than 5 dtex, the frequency of breakage will increase and the production efficiency will increase. It is preferable to use a yarn having a total fineness of 5 dtex or more for the warp yarn because it is extremely deteriorated. A more preferable total fineness is 6 to 12 dtex, and a further preferable total fineness is 7 to 10 dtex.

  The shape of the warp yarn is not particularly limited, and may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-leaf cross section, a hollow cross section, a flat cross section, a split-type core-sheath cross section, or the like. The number of filaments is also not particularly limited, but if it is too large, the yarn strength is lowered, so that it is preferably 3 to 20 filaments, more preferably 4 to 10 filaments.

  The warp yarn is preferable from the viewpoint of obtaining a woven fabric in which long fibers have a low air permeability rather than short fibers. Synthetic long fibers are preferable, but in the present invention, soft nylon is preferable. When polyester is used, the texture becomes hard, and when the yarn is thinned by weight reduction processing, the texture becomes soft but the denseness of the fabric is lost, and it is difficult to achieve both soft texture and low air permeability. Nylon includes nylon 6, nylon 6, 6 and the like, and nylon 6 and 6 having better setability in false twisting are more preferable.

  The nylon multifilament of the present invention preferably contains 0 to 1.0% by weight of titanium oxide used as a matting agent. When the content is increased, the strength of the yarn gradually decreases. When the content exceeds about 1.0% by weight, the tear strength of the fabric is insufficient. Even if it does not contain titanium oxide, there is no problem as a woven fabric, but since there is a possibility that feathers can be seen through when it is made a down jacket, the content is more preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.

  The warp yarn of the present invention needs to be a false twisted yarn. When the yarn is crimped by false twisting, the texture of the fabric becomes soft, and a flexible, low-breathing lightweight fabric that has never been obtained can be obtained. When the fabric becomes flexible, the tailored down jacket also becomes flexible, so that the fit to the body is enhanced, and it becomes difficult for cold outside air to enter the clothes. In addition, there is a secondary effect that warping or yarn breakage due to excessive tension in a woven fabric, which is likely to occur with a thin yarn having a fineness, is less likely to occur due to an increase in yarn elongation by false twisting. The false twisting method may be either a one-heater Woolley process or a two-heater bulerial process, but a Woolen-processed thread is preferred because it has higher crimp and higher elongation. When the false twisted yarn is subjected to actual twisting, the crimp of the yarn is suppressed and the characteristic soft texture is lost. Therefore, it is preferable to create a woven fabric in a non-twisted state.

  Since the woolly processed yarn in which the twisting torque remains, the filaments of the yarn are likely to converge, so it is necessary to perform calendering in a woven state. By applying pressure, the aggregate of filaments is opened and dispersed not in the thickness direction of the fabric but in the surface direction, so that the air permeability of the fabric is lowered and the thickness of the fabric is also reduced. The calender roll may or may not be heated. However, when heated and processed, the yarn in contact with the roll is crushed and deformed, and the air permeability becomes low and gloss is obtained. The calendar may process either one side or both sides, but the double side processing is more effective. Calendering may be performed after weaving, after scouring, or after dyeing, but since low-breathing fabrics do not allow the dyeing solution to pass through the fabric and uniform dyeing is difficult, it is better to perform calendering after dyeing The production efficiency is good and preferable.

  In the false twisted yarn, the gap between single yarns derived from the crimp of the yarn is larger than that in the non-false twisted yarn. The locations where the fabric aerates are considered to be voids of the woven structure, that is, the intersections of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, and voids of the yarn structure, that is, the voids of the multifilament yarn. As a result of diligent investigations on reducing the ventilation rate of processed yarn fabrics, when two or more false-twisted yarns without actual twist are aligned and used for warp yarns and calendered, voids in the woven structure and voids in the yarn structure Has been found to be drastically reduced and a sufficiently low air flow rate can be obtained for use as a down jacket side ground.

  In the process of weaving and dyeing, it is estimated that the long axes of the aligned multifilaments are randomly oriented in the thickness direction and the surface direction of the fabric. It is considered that they line up in the surface direction of the fabric and cover the surface of the fabric with almost no gap (FIG. 1). When the aligned yarn is regarded as one multifilament yarn, flattening has occurred.

  Even when two multifilaments having a total fineness of 2 are used instead of aligning two, the flattening effect by calendering is low, and in order to achieve a low air flow rate, it is necessary to increase the weave density and the fabric weight becomes heavy. The number of alignments may be three or more. However, as the number increases, the flattening effect of calendering decreases, so that two alignments are most preferable.

  The warp yarns may be aligned before or after warping, and may be performed at the time of winding after false twisting, passing through on a loom, or the like. The twist direction of the false twisted yarn, which is a warp yarn, may be either the S direction or the Z direction, and the two yarns to be aligned may be a combination in the same direction or a combination in different directions. A water jet loom, an air jet loom, a fly shuttle loom, or the like can be used as a loom for producing a woven fabric.

  The weft yarn used in the fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use the same type of warp yarn as the physical properties of the fabric are easily stabilized. Even when different types of yarn are used, it is desirable that the total fineness is narrower, and about 5 to 15 dtex and the number of filaments is preferably 3 to 20 filaments. Although there is no restriction | limiting in particular in the amount of titanium oxide in a weft, It is preferable to contain 0.01 to 2.0 weight%.

  Although the false twisting may or may not be performed on the weft yarn, it is preferable to perform the false twisting because a stretch property in the horizontal direction is obtained and the texture becomes more flexible. The weft yarns may be driven one by one or two at a time. However, when two yarns are driven at a time, the vertical and horizontal balance of the fabric is improved and the physical properties are stable.

  The higher the weaving density of the woven fabric of the present invention, the lower the air permeability. However, when the density is too high, the degree of freedom of the yarn decreases and the tearing strength decreases, so the cover factor represented by the following formula is 2000 to 2500. It is preferable to be between.

Cover factor = Warp yarn density (w / inch) x [Watt yarn total fineness (dtex)] ^1/2 + Weft yarn density (w / inch) x [Weft yarn total fineness (dtex)] ^1/2
The dyeing process of the woven fabric of the present invention may be handled in the same manner as a normal woven fabric, and can be finished to a desired amount and texture by performing scouring relaxation, intermediate setting, dyeing, calendering, resin processing and the like.

  Resin processing is preferably performed during finishing, and water repellent processing and antistatic processing are particularly preferably performed. The water-repellent finish makes it difficult for the down jacket to get wet with water and prevents the feathers from getting wet and giving off a bad odor or becoming unsanitary. Further, by performing the antistatic process, the generation of static electricity can be prevented, and the cloths and the cloths and the feathers do not stick to each other, so that the sewing workability is improved. When the water repellency is 4th grade or more and the frictional voltage is 3000 V or less, it is considered that the problems of water wetting and static electricity are almost eliminated. In addition, functional agents such as softness, antibacterial, deodorant, aroma, and far-infrared processing can be processed into a fabric.

The low-breathable lightweight fabric of the present invention thus obtained preferably has a basis weight of 30 g / m ² or less. The weight per unit area is preferably light, but is preferably about 20 g / m ² or more from the balance with practical strength.

The aeration rate of the fabric of the present invention is preferably 0.05 to 3.0 ml / cm ² / sec. If it is less than 0.05, once the down jacket is crushed, it may be difficult to recover to the original bulk, and if it exceeds 3.0, the down tends to come out and tends to be unsuitable for the down side.

  The tear strength of the fabric of the present invention is preferably 7.8 N or more. If it is less than 7.8 N, the risk of quality deterioration such as fabric breakage tends to increase. The higher the tear strength, the higher the strength of the fabric, but the lightness of the fabric is lost, so an appropriate value is preferably 15 N or less.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. First, the evaluation method will be explained.
<Fine fineness>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096.
<Difference of yarn type>
Identification was performed based on JISL1030.
<Yarn form observation>
Unwind the warp and weft from the fabric, observe the appearance, and process the crimped ones.
Those without crimps were not processed.

  For crimped yarns, the type of yarn processing was confirmed by the presence or absence of yarn torque. After holding a single thread unwound from the fabric and holding it in both hands, hanging the V-shaped wire and pulling the thread, put both hands together to make the thread V-shaped and observe whether the wire rotates. A Woolley yarn with torque remaining in the yarn if rotated, and a bulerian yarn if not rotated.

  In addition, one yarn collected by unwinding from the fabric was stretched and the multifilament was divided into two equal parts, and if not, the two were not arranged.

Regarding the cross-sectional shape of the yarn, a small piece obtained by cutting the warp direction and the horizontal direction of the fabric with a sharp blade was observed with an electron microscope, and the cross-sectional shapes of the warp yarn and the horizontal yarn were observed.
<Titanium oxide content of yarn>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1013.
<Textile structure>
Observation was performed based on JISL1096.
<Density of fabric>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096.
<Cover factor of textile>
Calculation was performed according to the following equation.

Cover factor = Warp yarn density (lines / inch) x [Total warp yarn fineness (dtex)] ^1/2
+ Weft density (lines / inch) x [Weft total fineness (dtex)] ^1/2
<Weaving calendar>
The front and back surfaces of the woven fabric were traced lightly with a finger, smooth ones with a calendar, and ones with irregularities without a calendar.
<Weave weight>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096 (mass per unit area).
<Thickness of fabric>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096.
<Air permeability of fabric>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096 (A: Frazier method).
<Tearing strength of fabric>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096 (D: pendulum method).
<Lacking of fabric stitches>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096 (Method B, load: 117.7 N).
<Elongation rate of fabric>
Measurement was performed based on JISL1096 (B, length between marks: 20 cm).
<Water repellency of fabric>
The measurement was performed based on JISL1092 (spray test).
<Frictional band voltage of fabric>
Measurement was performed based on JISL 1094 (friction cloth: cotton).
<Texture and appearance of the fabric>
Three persons touched the fabric with their hands to evaluate the texture, and visually evaluated the appearance on the front side.
Example 1
Friction false twisting was performed on nylon 6 and 6 multifilaments having a total fineness of 11 dtex and 10 filaments to obtain Z-twisted woolly yarns, and two were wound up simultaneously. Using this yarn as warp and weft, a plain weaving machine was created using an air jet loom. This live machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, and dyeing. A calendering process was performed on the front and back surfaces of the fabric using a heated roll, and then a finishing set was performed. At the time of finishing setting, the woven fabric was immersed in a resin solution having the following composition, the drawing rate with mangle roll was 65%, and curing was performed at 150 ° C. for 50 seconds.

Water repellent: NK guard NDN-2000 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1.0% by weight
Antistatic agent: “Nicepol” F-9160 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical) 0.1% by weight
Solvent: 98.9% by weight of water
The characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are as shown in Table 1, and it was a low-breathing lightweight woven fabric suitable as a down jacket side fabric.
Example 2
Friction false twisting was performed on nylon 6 and 6 multifilaments having a total fineness of 8 dtex and 5 filaments to obtain a Z-twisted woolly processed yarn, and two were wound up simultaneously. Using this yarn as warp yarn and weft yarn, a ripstop fabric production machine was created by air jet loom. This live machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, and dyeing. A calendering process was performed on the front and back surfaces of the fabric using a heated roll, and then a finishing set was performed. Resin processing similar to that of Example 1 was performed at the time of finishing setting. The characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are as shown in Table 1, and it was a low-breathing lightweight woven fabric suitable as a down jacket side fabric.
Example 3
In the same process as in Example 2, a woven fabric with a different raw machine density was produced. This live machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, and dyeing. After performing a calendar process on the front and back surfaces of the fabric using a roll at room temperature, a finishing set was performed. Resin processing similar to that of Example 1 was performed at the time of finishing setting. The characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are as shown in Table 1. A woven fabric having lower air permeability than that of Example 2 was obtained. In addition, the fabric was neither glossy nor shiny.
Example 4
Friction false twisting was performed on a total fineness of 8 dtex, 5-filament nylon 6,6 multifilament, and a Z-twisted woolly processed yarn was obtained. This yarn was used as a warp yarn, and two warp yarns were passed through the loom's kite. As the weft yarn, a yarn obtained by winding two pieces of 5 filament nylon 6 and 6 multifilaments with a total fineness of 8 dtex was used to make a ripstop fabric. This live machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, and dyeing. A calendering process was performed on the front and back surfaces of the fabric using a heated roll, and then a finishing set was performed. The characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are as shown in Table 1, and a woven fabric having lower air permeability than that of Example 3 was obtained.
Example 5
Friction false twisting was performed on nylon 6 and 6 multifilaments having a total fineness of 8 dtex and 5 filaments to obtain a Z-twisted woolly processed yarn and an S-twisted woolly processed yarn, and wound them together. Using this yarn as warp yarn and weft yarn, a ripstop fabric production machine was created by air jet loom. This live machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, and dyeing. A calendering process was performed on the front and back surfaces of the fabric using a heated roll, and then a finishing set was performed. Resin processing similar to that of Example 1 was performed at the time of finishing setting. The characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are as shown in Table 1, and it was a low-breathing lightweight woven fabric suitable as a down jacket side fabric.
Comparative Example 1
Two nylons 6 and 6 multifilaments having a total fineness of 8 dtex and 5 filaments were wound together. Using this yarn as warp yarn and weft yarn, a ripstop fabric production machine was created by air jet loom. Warp yarn breaks occurred frequently, and I couldn't get a good quality machine. This live machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, and dyeing. A calendering process was performed on the front and back surfaces of the fabric using a heated roll, and then a finishing set was performed. Resin processing similar to that of Example 1 was performed at the time of finishing setting. The characteristics of the obtained fabric were as shown in Table 1. The physical properties of the low-breathing lightweight fabric are not particularly problematic, but the texture is slightly hard, the fabric has a lot of vertical lines and the quality is poor, and the appearance is not suitable as a down jacket side.
Comparative Example 2
Table 1 shows the characteristics of the woven fabric prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that calendaring is not performed. Without calendering, the air flow rate of the woven fabric was not sufficiently reduced, and it was unsuitable as a down jacket side.
Comparative Example 3
Friction false twisting was performed on nylon 6,6 multifilaments with a total fineness of 17 dtex and 7 filaments to obtain a Z-twisted woolly processed yarn, and two were wound up simultaneously. Using this yarn as warp yarn and weft yarn, a ripstop fabric production machine was created by air jet loom. This raw machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, dyeing, double-sided calendar, and finishing set. Resin processing similar to that of Example 1 was performed at the time of finishing setting. The characteristics of the obtained fabric are as shown in Table 1. Although it has low air permeability without problems as a down jacket side fabric, it has a heavy basis weight and a slightly hard texture, so the side fabric slightly impairs the lightness and softness of the down jacket. It became.
Comparative Example 4
A plain woven fabric was made using an air jet loom by using the Z-twisted Woolley processed yarn of the yarn of Example 1 as warp yarn and weft yarn. This live machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, and dyeing. A calendering process was performed on the front and back surfaces of the fabric using a heated roll, and then a finishing set was performed. Resin processing similar to that of Example 1 was performed at the time of finishing setting. The characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are as shown in Table 1, and the air permeability was not sufficiently lowered, and it became a side where fear of falling out was concerned.

A: Woven warp yarn (multifilament)
B: Weft of woven fabric (multifilament)

Claims (3)

A woven fabric characterized by calendering using two or more nylon multifilament false twisted yarns having a total fineness of 5 to 15 dtex. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the nylon multifilament contains 0.01 to 1.0% by weight of titanium oxide. The fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the basis weight of the fabric is 30 g / m ² or less.

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