WO2023145557A1

WO2023145557A1 - Woven fabric and garment using same

Info

Publication number: WO2023145557A1
Application number: PCT/JP2023/001280
Authority: WO
Inventors: 有地保; 三本和章; 飯塚正幸
Original assignee: 東レ株式会社
Priority date: 2022-01-28
Filing date: 2023-01-18
Publication date: 2023-08-03
Also published as: CN118613612A; TW202332816A

Abstract

The present invention provides a lightweight and thin woven fabric that has a soft feeling suitable for windbreakers, down jackets, and the like, and that has excellent wind-breaking properties. To this end, the present invention provides a woven fabric which comprises a polyamide multi-filament and is of a plain-weave structure, said woven fabric being characterized in that the overall fineness of the multi-filament is not more than 17 dtex for both warp and weft, the single-strand fineness of the multi-filament is not more than 0.7 dtex for warp and/or weft, the fabric breakdown thread strength is not less than 4.5 cN/dtex, and the cover factor is not less than 1,700.

Description

Textiles and clothing using them

The present invention relates to textiles.

　Nylon-based fibers are widely used for lightweight and thin fabrics used for industrial materials and sports clothing. The reason why nylon fibers are widely used is that they generally have higher breaking strength per decitex than polyester. Windbreakers and down jackets in particular require lightweight, thin, and windproof fabrics. It is A fabric with high fabric strength and low air permeability is required in order to prevent breakage of the fabric, have excellent wind resistance, and suppress the blowing out of batting and down. In recent years, down jackets in particular have adopted a method of directly enclosing down without using a down pack between the outer material and the lining, because it is possible to reduce the weight of the product and express the rich swelling of the quilted part. Further improvement in down shedding performance is required for the front and back sides.

Recently, there is a demand for fabrics that are not only low in breathability, but also lighter in weight, have a soft texture, and are highly designed and fashionable. However, in order to reduce the weight of the fabric, it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the fabric or reduce the fineness of the multifilament that constitutes the fabric, making it difficult to maintain the tear strength of the fabric.

In order to achieve the requirements, high-density fabrics using 11-33dtex class nylon fibers are used, and the fabric structure is often a ripstop structure to increase tear strength. A ripstop structure is a structure in which two or more warp and weft threads are arranged separately from the base structure.The use of a ripstop structure reduces stress concentration when the fabric is torn, preventing the fabric from tearing. Strength can be improved. In the prior art, the fabric weave that satisfies this requirement is limited to a ripstop weave, and has the following problems.

Since the ripstop structure has threads with a fineness that is thicker than the base structure, the texture of the fabric becomes stiff when bending, and voids occur in the fabric structure, resulting in a decrease in wind resistance, down, and batting. causes blowouts. When the fabric of the ripstop structure is kneaded during washing, the voids in the fabric structure expand, resulting in a decrease in wind resistance and an increase in blowout of down or batting. Sometimes it becomes.

In addition, woven fabrics with a ripstop structure may lack aesthetics because the reinforcing threads look like lattices or streaks, and the applications and designs of sewn products were limited.

Patent Document 1 discloses a lightweight thin fabric with excellent tear strength, but the fabric structure of both Examples and Comparative Examples is an invention that requires a ripstop structure. Moreover, regarding the flexibility (bending rigidity by KES) of the fabrics described in the claims and examples, there was a problem that the fabrics were all hard to bend.

Example 2 of Patent Document 2 discloses a woven fabric with a plain weave structure using nylon 22dtex in the background, but it is a woven fabric with a coarse density, the cover factor is less than 1600, and the air permeability after washing, that is, There is no disclosure of sufficient windproof performance and down shedding performance.

JP-A-2005-48298 Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2013-245423

In order to solve the various problems related to the woven fabric using the ripstop structure using the above-mentioned conventional technology, the present invention is a plain weave high density design using multifilaments of specific fineness and single fine fineness. To provide a lightweight thin woven fabric suitable for a breaker, a down jacket, etc., having a soft touch and excellent wind resistance.

The present inventors arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems. That is, the present invention consists of the following configurations.

(1) A plain weave fabric made of polyamide multifilaments, wherein the fineness of the multifilament is 17 dtex or less in both weft and weft, and the single filament fineness of at least one of the multifilaments is 0.7 dtex or less, and A woven fabric having a fabric decomposition yarn strength of 4.5 cN/dtex or more and a cover factor of 1700 or more.

(2) The woven fabric according to (1) above, wherein the tear strength of the woven fabric is 6 N or more in both longitudinal and longitudinal directions.

(3) The woven fabric according to (1) or (2), which has an initial air permeability and air permeability after washing of 1 cm ³ /cm ² /s or less.

(4) The woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), which has a KES flexural rigidity of 0.008 gf·cm ² /cm or less.

(5) Clothing using the fabric according to any one of (1) to (4) above.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a woven fabric that has a soft feel, excellent wind resistance, and excellent tear strength.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric that is lightweight while realizing a soft texture and that can suppress blow-out when down and/or batting is included between the woven fabrics, and is particularly suitable for the side fabric of a down jacket. can be used.

<Textile structure>
As for the woven fabric, a fabric with low air permeability is required in order to have excellent wind resistance and to suppress the blowing out of filling and down, and a plain weave fabric is used. Twill weaves and satin weaves other than plain weaves are not preferable from the viewpoints of wind resistance and down shedding because the warp yarns float a lot and the yarn crossing points are few. In addition, the ripstop structure, which is a partially modified plain weave structure, is an effective structure for improving tear strength. Hardening and formation of voids in the woven structure tend to reduce the wind resistance and blow out the down or batting. In addition, for sewn products using ripstop fabric, when the fabric is kneaded during washing, the voids in the fabric structure expand, resulting in a decrease in wind resistance and an increase in the blowing out of down and batting. It is not preferable because

<Fineness/number of filaments>
The total fineness of the multifilament in the woven fabric of the present invention is 17 dtex or less both in the weft and weft. If the total fineness exceeds 17 dtex, the woven fabric tends to be stiff when bending, which is not preferable. Moreover, it is preferably 5 dtex or more in order to maintain the tear strength of the fabric.

In addition, the single filament fineness of at least one of the multifilaments in the weft and weft is 0.7 dtex or less. If the single yarn fineness exceeds 0.7 dtex, not only is it difficult to suppress the air permeability and the air permeability after washing, but the woven fabric becomes stiff when bending, which is not preferable. From the standpoint of dyeability and workability during spinning, the single yarn fineness is preferably 0.3 dtex or more.

<Yarn strength>
Regarding the multifilament having a total fineness of 17 dtex or less and a single filament fineness of 0.7 dtex or less in the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the strength of the multifilament in the gray fabric after multifilament spinning is 6 cN or more.

In addition, the strength of the yarn decomposed from the fabric of the present invention that has been scoured and dyed on the gray fabric, that is, the strength of the decomposed yarn of the fabric, is as follows. That is, in the present invention, the strength of the multifilament used for at least one of the warp and the weft and having a single yarn fineness of 0.7 dtex or less is required to be 4.5 cN/dtex or more, It is preferable that both the warp and the weft have a fabric decomposition yarn strength of 4.5 cN/dtex or more.

The multifilament (hereinafter sometimes referred to as raw yarn) strength decreases as the fineness of the multifilament used for textiles and the fineness of single yarn decrease, and the fabric tear strength tends to decrease, but the yarn strength tends to increase. In order to do so, for example, in Patent Documents 1 and 2, techniques such as not containing pigments such as titanium oxide and increasing the degree of polymerization (viscosity) of polyamide chips by solid-phase polymerization or the like have been mainly used. . However, with these conventional methods, sufficient fiber strength cannot be obtained. Therefore, in the present invention, in order to set the fabric decomposition yarn strength to 4.5 cN / dtex or more, as a yarn making condition that can precisely control the fiber structure, for example, by using the manufacturing process described below, the original yarn strength is 6 cN It is possible to obtain a high-strength raw yarn with a strength of 4.5 cN/dtex or more and a polyamide multifilament with a strength reduction of 4.5 cN/dtex or more.

<Yarn elongation>
Further, it is preferable that the elongation of the multifilament is 30 to 50% for both the warp and the weft. In order to increase the yarn strength, the elongation of less than 30% is mainly used in industrial polyamide fibers. However, in the case of polyamide fibers for clothing, the lower the elongation, the higher the bending stiffness. Therefore, it is preferable to set the elongation to 30% or more, so that the flexural rigidity of the woven fabric can be further reduced.

<Polyamide>
The polyamide constituting the polyamide multifilament used in the present invention is a resin composed of a high molecular weight body in which a so-called hydrocarbon group is linked to the main chain via an amide bond. Such polyamides are excellent in spinnability and mechanical properties. Preferred examples of polyamides include mainly polycaproamide (nylon 6) and polyhexamethylene adipamide (nylon 66).

In order to achieve high strength, it is preferable not to contain various additives such as matting agents represented by titanium oxide, but heat resistant agents etc. are not included in order to suppress strength reduction due to heat history in the dyeing process. It may be contained as necessary. Moreover, the degree of polymerization of the polyamide chips is preferably 2.5 to 4.0 in 98% sulfuric acid relative viscosity, from the viewpoint of fiber strength.

<Yellow process>
The polyamide multifilament of the present invention can be produced by a known melt spinning apparatus as long as filaments satisfying the range specified by the present invention can be produced. preferably. Exemplifying the basic process, a polyamide resin is melted, the polyamide polymer is metered and transported by a gear pump, and finally extruded through a discharge hole provided in a spinneret to form each filament. The filaments discharged from the spinneret are cooled and solidified to room temperature by blowing cooling air from a cooling device to each filament. After that, the multifilament is fed with oil by an oiling device and bundled to form a multifilament, entangled by a fluid entangling nozzle device, and passed through a take-up roller and a drawing roller. At that time, the film is drawn according to the ratio of the peripheral speeds of the take-up roller and the drawing roller. Furthermore, a polyamide multifilament can be produced by heat-treating the yarn by heating the drawing roller and winding it with a winding device.

<Ambient temperature>
In the production process by the above-described direct draw spinning method, it is preferable to positively heat directly below the surface of the spinneret so that the ambient temperature is 250 to 300°C. As a result, the orientation of the polyamide polymer extruded during spinning is less likely to be degraded by heat, and the orientation can be relaxed. High strength can be realized by relaxation of orientation by slow cooling from the die surface to cooling. More preferably, it is 285 to 300°C.

<Uniform cooling: annular cooling device>
In the above process, the cooling device preferably uses an annular cooling device that blows out rectified cooling air from the outer periphery toward the center, or an annular cooling device that blows out rectified cooling air from the center toward the outer periphery. In addition, the cooling air speed blown from the cooling air blowing surface is in the range of 20.0 to 40.0 (m / min) on average in the section from the upper end surface to the lower end surface of the cooling blowing part. It is preferable from the point of view of conversion.

<Heat set temperature>
In the above process, heat treatment is preferably performed using the stretching roller as a heating roller, and the heat treatment temperature is preferably 150 to 190°C. When the heat treatment temperature is raised, the crystallization of the fiber is promoted, so high strength can be achieved. Furthermore, it is possible to suppress a decrease in strength due to heat history in the dyeing process. Preferably, it is 165-180°C.

<Cover factor>
The fabric of the present invention has a cover factor of 1700 or higher. 2000 is preferable as the upper limit. If the cover factor is less than 1700, the woven fabric will be softer and thinner, but it will be difficult to suppress air permeability, and the object of the present invention will not be satisfied. A cover factor of 2000 or less is preferable because the air permeability is kept low and the woven fabric is thin and does not become excessively stiff when bent. In addition, by weaving a woven fabric with a cover factor of 2000 or less using yarns of 17 dtex or less for warp and weft, the density of the reeds and healds, which are loom parts, does not become too high, and troubles such as warp fluff and warp breakage during weaving. is extremely small, the quality of the woven fabric is excellent, and the weft yarn driving density is within a suitable range, so that the productivity is also excellent.

<Tear strength>
The woven fabric of the present invention preferably has a tear strength of 6 N or more, more preferably 6 to 15 N, in both the longitudinal and longitudinal directions by the pendulum method. A tensile strength of 6 N or more is preferable in that tearing due to piercing by a projection when the sewn product is worn, and tearing due to concentration of load on the sewn portion, hooking, etc., are unlikely to occur. In addition, since the fabric has a plain weave structure using polyamide multifilaments with a total warp and weft fineness of 17 dtex or less, the tear strength is about 15 N at the highest.

<Permeability>
The initial air permeability of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 1 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s) or less, more preferably 0.8 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s). ) or less, more preferably 0.5 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s) or less. When the air permeability is 1 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s) or less, the occurrence of blowing out of batting or down is suppressed to a greater extent. In particular, in recent years, many down jackets have adopted a method of enclosing the down directly without using a down pack between the outer material and the lining, and it is preferable to improve the ability to remove the down by suppressing the air permeability of the fabric.

In terms of practical use of the product, the present inventors have not only measured the air permeability of the fabric when selling the sewn product as a new product, that is, the initial air permeability of the fabric, but also the product is rubbed by washing the sewn product at home or at a dry cleaning shop. We thought it would be desirable to design a fabric that would reduce the air permeability of the fabric due to uneven movement of the intersecting points of the fabric, that is, suppress the air permeability after washing. There are many practical situations where bending force is applied to the fabric, such as repeatedly following the movement of a person when wearing the product, or compressing and folding a down jacket for mountain climbing and carrying it. The down missing index is also a desirable viewpoint.

The present inventors assumed that the down product was washed once a year, and used the air permeability of the fabric after 5 washes assuming a product life of 5 years as an index, and defined it as "post-wash air permeability". The air permeability of the fabric of the present invention after washing five times is preferably 1 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s) or less, more preferably 0.8 cc/cm, like the initial air permeability. ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s) or less, more preferably 0.5 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s) or less, and the air permeability is 1 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s) or less, the occurrence of blowing out of batting or down is highly suppressed as described above.

<Number of down missing pieces>
The number of down pull-outs in the present invention is preferably 50 or less, more preferably 15 or less. If the number of missing down strands is 50 or less, the blowing out of the down-filled actual product during washing/wearing/storage will be suppressed, resulting in a decrease in the product's heat-retaining power and down on other clothes when putting on and taking off. Adhesion can be prevented. The above-mentioned number of missing downs is a value evaluated by a method of measuring by a method described later.

<Bending stiffness by KES>
The KES flexural rigidity of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably 0.008 gf·cm ² /cm or less (1 gf = 0.0098 N = 9.8 mN), more preferably 0.006 gf · cm ² /cm (0.0098 N = 9.8 mN). 0558 mN·cm ² /cm) or less. With a KES flexural rigidity of 0.008 gf·cm ² /cm (0.0784 mN·cm ² /cm) or less, the woven fabric has a much smaller flexural stiffness, and the quilted portion when the product is filled with down. bulge is a very preferred embodiment.

<Combination of tear strength, bending rigidity, and air permeability>
As a means of suppressing the air permeability while maintaining the soft texture of the fabric, it is generally known to reduce the single yarn fineness of the yarn used, but reducing the single yarn fineness reduces the strength of the raw yarn. In many cases, the tear strength of the fabric is lowered. It is known that increasing the single yarn fineness of the yarn used or lowering the weaving density is a known means of improving tear strength, but increasing the single yarn fineness makes the fabric bending stiffer, and lowering the weaving density makes it more breathable. It becomes unsuitable for fabrics for down jackets. In particular, it is difficult to balance the three points of soft feel, air permeability, and tear strength in thin fabrics using raw yarns of 17 dtex or less as in the present invention. In the present invention, as a means for achieving these three points at the same time, the above-mentioned high-strength yarn is used to ensure the yarn strength in the fabric, and the number of filaments (single yarn fineness) and cover factor are within the ranges described above. By doing so, it has a tear strength of 6.0 N or more, which can provide the above-mentioned excellent performance even when actually worn, and both the initial air permeability and the air permeability after washing are 1.0 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ / cm ² /s) or less, and a woven fabric having a flexural rigidity of 0.0080 gf·cm ² /cm or less can be obtained.

The woven fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for clothing, especially sports clothing such as windbreakers and down jackets, as well as material applications such as tents, sleeping bags, and canvas.

A more specific explanation will be given with an example. However, the present invention is by no means limited by these examples.

The evaluation and measurement methods used in the examples are as follows.

(1) Total fineness/single filament fineness [fineness]
(fineness of raw yarn)
A fiber sample is wound 400 times on a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m under a tension of 1/30 cN×indicated decitex to prepare a skein. Dried at 105°C for 60 minutes, transferred to a desiccator, left to cool in an environment of 20°C and 55RH for 30 minutes, measured the mass of the skein, calculated the mass per 10,000 m, and in the case of nylon 6, the official moisture content. The total fineness of the fibers was calculated with a ratio of 4.5%. The measurement was performed 4 times, and the average value was taken as the total fineness. A value obtained by dividing the obtained total fineness by the number of filaments was taken as the single filament fineness.

(fineness of fabric decomposed yarn)
Two lines are drawn at intervals of 100 cm in the warp or weft direction of the fabric, and the warp or weft of the fabric within the lines is separated. Next, the tentative total fineness is calculated to determine the measurement load. A load of 2 g is applied to the obtained decomposed yarn, the length between two points (L cm) is measured, then cut between two points (L cm), the weight (Wg) is measured, and the temporary total fineness is calculated by the following formula. was calculated. Next, a load of 1/10 g/dtex (0.098 cN/dtex) was applied to the temporary total fineness, the length and weight between two points were measured in the same manner as above, and the total fineness was calculated by the following formula.

Total fineness (textile decomposed yarn) = W/L x 100000 (dtex)
A value obtained by dividing the obtained total fineness by the number of filaments was defined as a single yarn fineness (dtex).
Similar measurements were repeated 5 times, and the average was described in the results.

(2) Yarn strength and elongation Draw a tensile strength-elongation curve for raw yarn and fabric decomposed yarn according to JIS L1013 (2010) tensile strength and elongation rate. As for the test conditions, the type of tester was a constant speed elongation type, the grip interval was 50 cm, and the tensile speed was 50 cm/min. When the tensile strength at break was smaller than the maximum strength, the maximum tensile strength and elongation at that time were measured.
The strength and elongation were obtained by the following formulas.

Strength (cN/dtex) = tensile strength at break (cN)/fineness (dtex)
Elongation (%) = Elongation at break (cm) / Grip interval (cm) x 100
(3) Weave Density The density of the woven fabric was measured according to the density measurement method A (JIS method) specified in JIS L1096 (2010) 8.6.1.

(4) Cover factor (CF)
The CF of the woven fabric was determined by the following formula.

CF = Dwp x (Fwp) ^1/2 + Dwt x (Fwt) ^1/2
[In the formula, Dwp is the warp density of the fabric (book/2.54 cm), Dwt is the weft density of the fabric (book/2.54 cm), and Fwp and Fwt are the thicknesses of the warp and weft that make up the fabric ( dtex)].

(5) Tear strength The tear strength of the woven fabric was measured according to the tear strength D method (pendulum method) specified in JIS L1096 (2010) 8.17.4.

(6) Initial Air Permeability/Air Permeability After Washing The initial air permeability of the woven fabric was measured according to the air permeability method A (Fragile method) specified in JIS L1096 (2010) 8.26.1.

In addition, the air permeability after washing was measured by the same method after washing 5 times according to the washing method C4M method specified in the appendix of JIS L1930 (2014), then hanging and drying.

(7) Bending stiffness by KES (KES bending stiffness)
The flexural rigidity of the woven fabric was measured using a KES-FB2 flexural property tester manufactured by Kato Tech. At least two test pieces of 20 cm × 20 cm are sampled in the width direction, the sample is held in a chuck with an interval of 1 cm, and a constant velocity curvature pure bending test is performed in the range of curvature K = -2.5 to +2.5. carried out. The direction in which the warp bends is the warp direction, and the direction in which the weft yarn bends is the weft. Furthermore, the average value was taken as the KES bending stiffness value.

(8) Number of pieces of down missing The number of pieces of down missing was measured in accordance with the evaluation of down blowing out of fabrics specified in GB/T 14272 (2011) as an evaluation of down shedding property assuming an actual product. The sample used for down blowout evaluation conforms to Method B of the above evaluation method, and the sample size is 120 x 170 mm (the size of the test bag after sewing (sewing thread: No. 13 for household use), and the filling amount is 30 g. The filling ratio was 90% down/10% feather, and down with a fill power of 600 or more was used.

In addition, after washing, the fabric was washed 5 times according to the washing method C4M method specified in the appendix of JIS L1930 (2014). The number of down pullouts was measured in the same manner.

[Example 1]
As polyamide, titanium oxide-free nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 were melted at 282° C. and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Steam of 285°C is blown to each filament discharged from the spinneret directly below the surface of the spinneret to set the atmospheric temperature to 285°C, and cooling air of 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 20 m/min. The yarn was passed through a cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 2.4 times through a drawing roller heated to 155°C at a take-up roller speed of 1700 m/min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 11 dtex and 8 filaments.

As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 3.3 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 295°C and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). A steam set at 290°C is blown to each filament discharged from the spinneret directly below the surface of the spinneret to make the ambient temperature 290°C, and cooling air at 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 15 m/min. The yarn was passed through an annular cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.52 times through a draw roller heated to 170°C at a take-up roller speed of 2700 m/min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 11 dtex and 24 filaments.

The obtained 11 dtex, 8 filament nylon 6 multifilament was used as the warp, and the 11 dtex, 24 filament nylon 6 multifilament was used as the weft. / 2.54 cm. The green fabric thus obtained was scoured and preliminarily set, and then dyed with a jet dyeing machine and dried. After that, water-repellent finishing and calendering were performed using a non-fluorine-based resin. The resulting fabric had a soft feel and physical properties suitable for a down jacket. Table 1 shows the measurement results.

[Example 2]
As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 295° C. and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Steam set at 295°C is blown to each filament discharged from the spinneret directly below the surface of the spinneret to set the ambient temperature to 295°C, and cooling air at 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 20 m/min. The yarn was passed through an annular cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.82 times through a drawing roller heated to 170 ° C. at a take-up roller speed of 2500 m / min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 15 dtex and 24 filaments.

The 11 dtex, 8 filament nylon 6 multifilament obtained in Example 1 is used as the warp, and the 15 dtex, 24 filament nylon 6 multifilament is used as the weft. The fabric was woven to have a weft density of 220 wefts/2.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the obtained fabric were measured. Table 1 shows the measurement results.

[Example 3]
As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 275° C. and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Directly below the surface of the spinneret, steam set at 275°C is blown onto each filament discharged from the spinneret to set the ambient temperature to 275°C, and cooling air at 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 20 m/min. The yarn was passed through an annular cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.80 times through a drawing roller heated to 170 ° C. at a take-up roller speed of 2400 m / min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 17 dtex and 24 filaments.

The final finished fabric is a plain weave fabric in which the 11 dtex, 8 filament nylon 6 multifilament obtained in Example 1 is used as the warp and the 17 dtex, 24 filament nylon 6 multifilament is used as the weft. It was woven so that the weft density was 226 wefts/2.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the obtained fabric were measured. Table 1 shows the measurement results.

[Example 4]
As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 282° C. and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Directly below the surface of the spinneret, steam set at 285°C is blown onto each filament discharged from the spinneret to set the ambient temperature to 285°C, and cooling air at 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 20 m/min. The yarn was passed through an annular cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.82 times through a draw roller heated to 170°C at a take-up roller speed of 2400 m/min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 13 dtex and 24 filaments.

The obtained 13dtex, 24-filament nylon 6 multifilament was arranged in the warp and weft, and the final finished fabric was woven so that the warp density was 266 strands/2.54 cm and the weft density was 230 strands/2.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the fabric were measured. Table 1 shows the measurement results.

[Comparative Example 1]
A plain weave fabric using the same warp and weft as in Example 1 was woven so that the finished fabric had a warp of 280/2.54 cm and a weft density of 220/2.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the fabric were measured. The resulting fabric had a soft texture, but the air permeability after washing exceeded 1.0 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s), and the number of down pieces removed after washing was also an acceptance criterion. 50, which is insufficient as a down jacket. Table 1 shows the measurement results.

[Comparative Example 2]
As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 265° C. and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Directly under the surface of the spinneret, steam set at 265°C is blown onto each filament discharged from the spinneret to set the ambient temperature to 265°C, and cooling air at 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 15 m/min. The yarn is passed through an annular cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.60 times through a drawing roller heated to 155 ° C. at a take-up roller speed of 2800 m / min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 11 dtex and 24 filaments. The same warp as in Example 1 and the 11 dtex, 24 filament nylon 6 multifilament obtained here are arranged in the weft, and the final finished fabric has a warp density of 280 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 240 / 2. It was woven to be 0.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the fabric were measured. The tear strength in the weft direction of the fabric was below 6.0 N, which was insufficient as a down jacket. Table 1 shows the measurement results.

[Comparative Example 3]
A woven fabric with a ripstop structure using the same warp and weft as in Example 1 was woven so that the final finished fabric had a warp density of 291 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 236 threads/2.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the fabric were measured. The fabric thus obtained had a hard texture when bent. Table 1 shows the measurement results.

[Comparative Example 4]
As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 282° C. and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Directly below the surface of the spinneret, steam set at 285°C is blown onto each filament discharged from the spinneret to set the ambient temperature to 285°C, and cooling air at 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 20 m/min. The yarn is passed through an annular cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.95 through a drawing roller heated to 170°C at a take-up roller speed of 2300 m/min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 22 dtex and 20 filaments.

As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips with a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 282°C and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Steam set at 285°C is blown to each filament discharged from the spinneret to set the atmospheric temperature to 285°C, and an annular cooling device blows cooling air at 18°C inward from the outside at a wind speed of 20 m/min. The yarn is passed through and cooled to room temperature to solidify. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.95 through a drawing roller heated to 170°C at a take-up roller speed of 2300 m/min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 22 dtex and 24 filaments.

The obtained 22 dtex, 20 filament nylon 6 multifilament was used as the warp, and the 22 dtex, 24 filament nylon 6 multifilament was used as the weft. The fabric was woven to a density of 153 strands/2.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the fabric were measured. The resulting fabric has a stiff texture, initial air permeability and post-washing air permeability exceeding 1.0 cc/cm ² /s. It exceeded and was insufficient as a down jacket. It was insufficient as a down jacket. The measurement results are shown in the table below.

[Comparative Example 5]
A plain weave fabric using the same warp and weft as in Comparative Example 4 was woven so that the final finished fabric had a warp density of 204/2.54 cm and a weft density of 160/2.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the fabric were measured. The fabric thus obtained had a hard texture when bent. The measurement results are shown in the table below.

[Comparative Example 6]
As the polyamide, nylon 6 chips having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.8 and containing no titanium oxide were melted at 282° C. and discharged from a spinneret (round hole). Directly below the surface of the spinneret, steam set at 285°C is blown onto each filament discharged from the spinneret to set the ambient temperature to 285°C, and cooling air at 18°C is blown inward from the outside at a wind speed of 20 m/min. The yarn was passed through an annular cooling device to cool and solidify to room temperature. After that, a spinning oil is applied, each filament is converged to form a multifilament, and after being entangled, it is drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.82 times through a draw roller heated to 170°C at a take-up roller speed of 2400 m/min. , to obtain a nylon 6 multifilament of 15 dtex and 20 filaments.

The same warp as in Example 1 and the 15 dtex, 20 filament nylon 6 multifilament obtained here are arranged in the weft, and the final finished fabric has a warp density of 280 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 220 / 2. It was woven to be 0.54 cm. The obtained gray fabric was dyed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the physical properties of the fabric were measured. The resulting fabric had a stiff texture, and the initial/post-washing air permeability exceeded 1.0 cc/cm ² /s (cm ³ /cm ² /s), which was insufficient as a down jacket. The number of missing down strands of the down jacket also exceeded 50, which is the acceptance criterion, and was insufficient as a down jacket. The measurement results are shown in the table below.

Claims

A plain weave fabric composed of polyamide multifilaments, wherein the total fineness of the multifilaments is 17 dtex or less in both the weft and weft, and the single filament fineness of at least one of the multifilaments is 0.7 dtex or less, and the fabric is decomposed. A woven fabric having a strength of 4.5 cN/dtex or more and a cover factor of 1700 or more.
2. The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the tear strength of said fabric is 6N or more in both directions.
3. The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the initial air permeability and the air permeability after washing are 1 cm 3 /cm 2 /s or less.
The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which has a flexural rigidity measured by KES of 0.008 gf·cm 2 /cm or less.
A garment using the fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4.