JP2021095349A - 化粧料 - Google Patents
化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2021095349A JP2021095349A JP2019226247A JP2019226247A JP2021095349A JP 2021095349 A JP2021095349 A JP 2021095349A JP 2019226247 A JP2019226247 A JP 2019226247A JP 2019226247 A JP2019226247 A JP 2019226247A JP 2021095349 A JP2021095349 A JP 2021095349A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- oil
- oil phase
- surfactant
- gelling agent
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 59
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 77
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- -1 fatty acid ester Chemical class 0.000 claims description 51
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims description 44
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 35
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 35
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 35
- 239000004375 Dextrin Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 229920001353 Dextrin Polymers 0.000 claims description 23
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 23
- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 claims description 10
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 229940024606 amino acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000021357 Behenic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 229940116226 behenic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 8
- JJOJFIHJIRWASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N icosanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O JJOJFIHJIRWASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000006097 ultraviolet radiation absorber Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000021314 Palmitic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 5
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- WCYBYZBPWZTMDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N dibutylazanide Chemical compound CCCC[N-]CCCC WCYBYZBPWZTMDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940114072 12-hydroxystearic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- AVBJHQDHVYGQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(dodecanoylamino)pentanedioic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NC(C(O)=O)CCC(O)=O AVBJHQDHVYGQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- FUZZWVXGSFPDMH-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-hexanoic acid Natural products CCCCCC(O)=O FUZZWVXGSFPDMH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 19
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 98
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 97
- LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethyl ether Chemical compound COC LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 36
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 25
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 16
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 14
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 13
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 13
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 13
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 9
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 8
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- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- PSFDQSOCUJVVGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N harman Chemical compound C12=CC=CC=C2NC2=C1C=CN=C2C PSFDQSOCUJVVGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 6
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 5
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 5
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- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 5
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- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 235000000346 sugar Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 5
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-aminobenzoic acid Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000002835 absorbance Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
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- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 4
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- KXTAOXNYQGASTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-benzylidenepropanedioic acid Chemical class OC(=O)C(C(O)=O)=CC1=CC=CC=C1 KXTAOXNYQGASTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzene Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1 UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KCXVZYZYPLLWCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N EDTA Chemical compound OC(=O)CN(CC(O)=O)CCN(CC(O)=O)CC(O)=O KCXVZYZYPLLWCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 3
- PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Niacin Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 3
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propanedioic acid Natural products OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000010323 ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000011668 ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 235000015278 beef Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000003814 drug Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019197 fats Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229920002521 macromolecule Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 3
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl undecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000002894 organic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 3
- RMAQACBXLXPBSY-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicic acid Chemical compound O[Si](O)(O)O RMAQACBXLXPBSY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 235000015424 sodium Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 3
- YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N (+)-Biotin Chemical compound N1C(=O)N[C@@H]2[C@H](CCCCC(=O)O)SC[C@@H]21 YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-SVZMEOIVSA-N (+)-Galactose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-SVZMEOIVSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N (2z)-2-benzylidene-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-3-one Chemical class CC1(C)C2CCC1(C)C(=O)\C2=C/C1=CC=CC=C1 OIQXFRANQVWXJF-QBFSEMIESA-N 0.000 description 2
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N (9Z,12Z)-9,10,12,13-tetratritiooctadeca-9,12-dienoic acid Chemical compound C(CCCCCCC\C(=C(/C\C(=C(/CCCCC)\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])(=O)O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IOHPVZBSOKLVMN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-phenylethyl)benzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1CCC1=CC=CC=C1 IOHPVZBSOKLVMN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- LNRUEZIDUKQGRH-YZUCMPLFSA-N umbelliferose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O[C@@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 LNRUEZIDUKQGRH-YZUCMPLFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019871 vegetable fat Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920003169 water-soluble polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012463 white pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010457 zeolite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940105125 zinc myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GBFLQPIIIRJQLU-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;tetradecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GBFLQPIIIRJQLU-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
Description
(A)水相ゲル化剤を含む水相と、
(B)油相ゲル化剤を含む油相とからなり、
水相と油相とが混合物を形成してなり、
油相に(C)極性油を30質量%以上含み、
化粧料の静置粘度が13000mPa・s以上である。
(A)水相ゲル化剤を含む水相と、
(B)油相ゲル化剤を含む油相とからなり、
水相と油相とが混合物を形成してなり、
油相に(C)極性油を30質量%以上含み、
化粧料の静置粘度が13000mPa・s以上であるので、極性油を一定量含んでいても、安定性を確保することができ、耐水性が良好で、べたつきの軽減されたものとすることができる。
(A)水相ゲル化剤を含む水相と、
(B)油相ゲル化剤を含む油相とからなり、
水相と油相とが混合物を形成してなり、
油相に(C)極性油を30質量%以上含み、
化粧料の静置粘度が13000mPa・s以上である。
以下、各成分について詳細に説明する。
なお、本明細書において、PEGはポリエチレングリコール、EOはエチレンオキサイド、POはプロピレンオキサイド、POEはポリオキシエチレン、POPはポリオキシプロピレン、VPはビニルピロリドンの略である。
水相には(A)水相ゲル化剤を含む。(A)水相ゲル化剤としては、例えば、セルロースガム、メチルセルロース、ニトロセルロース、エチルセルロース、メチルヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、セルロース硫酸ナトリウム、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、結晶セルロース、セルロース末などのセルロース系高分子等、アルギン酸ナトリウム、アルギン酸プロピレングリコールエステルなどのアルギン酸系高分子等が挙げられる。
油相には(B)油相ゲル化剤を含む。(B)油相ゲル化剤は、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、グリセリル脂肪酸エステル、アミノ酸ゲル化剤、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、脂肪酸もしくはその塩、またはシリコーンワックスであることが好ましい。
(C)極性油は通常、化粧品、医薬品、食品で用いられるものであれば特に限定されるものでない。IOB値は、特に限定されるものではないが、0.05〜0.80であることが好ましい。
なお、IOB値とは、Inorganic/Organic Balance(無機性/有機性比)の略であって、無機性値の有機性値に対する比率を表す値であり、有機化合物の極性の度合いを示す指標となるものである。IOB値は、具体的には、
IOB値=無機性値/有機性値
として表される。ここで、「無機性値」、「有機性値」のそれぞれについては、例えば、分子中の炭素原子1個について「有機性値」が20、同水酸基1個について「無機性値」が100といったように、各種原子または官能基に応じた「無機性値」、「有機性値」が設定されており、有機化合物中の全ての原子および官能基の「無機性値」、「有機性値」を積算することによって、当該有機化合物のIOB値を算出することができる(例えば、藤田著、「化学の領域」第11巻、第10号、第719頁〜第725頁、1957年参照)。
エステル油の具体例としては、ジネオペンタン酸トリプロピレングリコール、イソノナン酸イソノニル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、オレイン酸デシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、乳酸セチル、乳酸ミリスチル、酢酸ラノリン、ステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸イソセチル、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸コレステリル、エチルヘキサン酸セチル、ジ−2−エチルヘキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステル、モノイソステアリン酸N−アルキルグリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリン、トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、テトラ−2−エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリチル、トリエチルヘキサノイン(トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリン)、トリオクタン酸グリセリン、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、セチル2−エチルヘキサノエート、2−エチルヘキシルパルミテート、トリミリスチン酸グリセリン、トリ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセライド、ヒマシ油脂肪酸メチルエステル、オレイン酸オレイル、アセトグリセライド、パルミチン酸2−ヘプチルウンデシル、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸−2−オクチルドデシルエステル、アジピン酸ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデシル、エチルラウレート、セバシン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、ミリスチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、パルミチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、コハク酸2−エチルヘキシル、クエン酸トリエチル等が挙げられる。
ジベンゾイルメタン誘導体としては、4−tert−ブチル−4’ −メトキシジベンゾイルメタン(例えば「パルソール1789」)などが例示される。
ベンゾフェノン誘導体としては、ベンゾフェノン−1(例えば「ユビナール400」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−2(例えば「ユビナールD50」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−3またはオキシベンゾン(例えば「ユビナールM40」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−4(例えば「ユビナールMS40」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−5、ベンゾフェノン−6(例えば「ヘリソーブ(Helisorb)11」;ノルクアイ社)、ベンゾフェノン−8 (例えば「スペクトラ−ソーブ(Spectra-Sorb)UV−24」;アメリカン・シアナミド社)、ベンゾフェノン−9(例えば「ユビナールDS−49」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン−12などが例示される。
フェニルベンゾイミダゾール誘導体としては、フェニルベンゾイミダゾールスルホン酸(例えば「ユーソレックス232」;メルク社)、フェニルジベンゾイミダゾールテトラスルホン酸二ナトリウム( 例えば「ネオ・ヘリオパンAP」;ハーマン・アンド・レイマー社)などが例示される。
イミダゾリン誘導体としては、エチルヘキシルジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリンプロピオナートなどが例示される。
4,4−ジアリールブタジエン誘導体としては、1,1−ジカルボキシ(2,2’−ジメチルプロピル)−4,4−ジフェニルブタジエンなどが例示される。
(C)極性油は、1種を単独で使用してもよいし、2種以上を併用してもよい。
本発明の化粧料の静置粘度は13000mPa・s以上であり、14000〜50000mPa・sであることがより好ましく、15000〜40000mPa・sであることがより好ましい。化粧料の静置粘度が13000mPa・s以上であることで、界面活性剤を含まない化粧料にあって、極性油を油相全量に対し30質量%以上含んでいても、化粧料の安定性を確保することができる。
表1に示す処方で、水相成分、油相成分それぞれを適温にて溶解および分散させたのち、それぞれを冷却固化させ、固化した水相成分および油相成分をディスパーで均一混合して化粧料を得た。
表1に示す処方で、水相成分、油相成分それぞれを適温にて溶解および分散させたのち、水相成分に油相成分を滴下し混合して化粧料を得た。
・(アクリロイルジメチルタウリンアンモニウム/VP)コポリマー:Aristoflex(AVCクラリアントジャパン株式会社製)
・パルミチン酸デキストリン:レオパールKL(千葉製粉株式会社製)
・(パルミチン酸/エチルヘキサン酸)デキストリン:レオパールTT(千葉製粉株式会社製)
・(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル:ノムコートHK−G(日清オイリオグループ株式会社製)
・N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミド:GP−1(味の素株式会社製)
・N−2−エチルヘキサノイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミド:EB21(味の素株式会社製)
・ポリアミド−8:オレオクラフトLP−21(クローダジャパン社製)
・トリ酢酸テトラステアリン酸スクロース:シュガーワックスA−10E(第一工業製薬株式会社製
・シリコーンワックス:AMS−C30(ダウ・ケミカル日本株式会社/ダウ・東レ株式会社製)
調製した化粧料について、レオメーター(アントンパール社製レオメーターMCR300)でギャップ0.5mm、ひずみ振り角0.1%、周波数1Hz、温度25℃の条件下50φコーンプレートで応力を増加させながら測定した。
調製した化粧料について、レオメーター(レオテック社製レオメーター)で感圧軸5φ、針入速度2cm/min、針入度10mmの条件下で測定した。
調製した化粧料を25℃1週間保存した後、製剤の状態を確認して、以下の基準で評価した。
A:水相、油相どちらからも液体のしみ出しがない
B:水相、油相どちらかまたは片方からわずかな液体のしみ出しがある
C:水相、油相どちらからも液体がしみ出して均一性を保っていない
調製した化粧料を専門パネラー10名により使用してもらい、以下の基準で評価した。
<評価基準>
A:8人以上がべたつきがないと感じた
B:5〜7人がべたつきがないと感じた
C:4人以下がべたつきがないと感じた
Sプレート(5×5cmのV溝PMMA板、SPFMASTER−PA01)に各例のサンプルを2mg/cm2の量で滴下し、60秒間指で塗布し、15分間乾燥した後、その吸光度(400〜280nm)を株式会社日立製作所社製U−3500型自記録分光光度計にて測定した。未塗布のプレートをコントロールとし、吸光度(Abs)を以下の式で算出した。
Abs=−log(T/To)
T:サンプルの透過率、To:未塗布プレートの透過率
その後、塗布膜を流水に30分間浸した後、再度吸光度スペクトルを測定した。水浴前の吸光度に対する水浴後の吸光度から試料の基板残存率を求め、その耐水性を以下の基準で評価した。
A:残存率95%以上
B:残存率80%以上95%未満
C:残存率80%未満
表1に評価結果を処方とともに示した。
Claims (9)
- 界面活性剤を含まないか、界面活性剤のみで油相と水相を乳化できる量の界面活性剤を含まない化粧料であって、
(A)水相ゲル化剤を含む水相と、
(B)油相ゲル化剤を含む油相とからなり、
前記水相と前記油相とが混合物を形成してなり、
前記油相に(C)極性油を30質量%以上含み、
化粧料の静置粘度が13000mPa・s以上である化粧料。 - 前記(C)極性油が紫外線吸収剤を含む請求項1記載の化粧料。
- 前記(B)油相ゲル化剤でゲル化した油相の硬度が40N以上である請求項1または2記載の化粧料。
- 前記(B)油相ゲル化剤が、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、グリセリル脂肪酸エステル、アミノ酸ゲル化剤、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル、脂肪酸もしくはその塩、またはシリコーンワックスである請求項1、2または3記載の化粧料。
- 前記デキストリン脂肪酸エステルが、パルミチン酸デキストリンまたは(パルミチン酸/エチルヘキサン酸)デキストリンである請求項4記載の化粧料。
- 前記グリセリル脂肪酸エステルが(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリルである請求項4記載の化粧料。
- 前記アミノ酸ゲル化剤が、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミド、N−2−エチルヘキサノイル−L−グルタミン酸ジブチルアミドおよびポリアミド8の中から選ばれる少なくとも1つである請求項4記載の化粧料。
- 前記脂肪酸が12-ヒドロキシステアリン酸である請求項4記載の化粧料。
- 前記(B)油相ゲル化剤を油相全量に対し2質量%以上含む請求項5〜8いずれか1項記載の化粧料。
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