JP2019178125A - 水中油型乳化化粧料 - Google Patents
水中油型乳化化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2019178125A JP2019178125A JP2018070204A JP2018070204A JP2019178125A JP 2019178125 A JP2019178125 A JP 2019178125A JP 2018070204 A JP2018070204 A JP 2018070204A JP 2018070204 A JP2018070204 A JP 2018070204A JP 2019178125 A JP2019178125 A JP 2019178125A
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- water
- emulsified cosmetic
- moisturizing
- component
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- 125000001165 hydrophobic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- POJWUDADGALRAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N allantoin Chemical compound NC(=O)NC1NC(=O)NC1=O POJWUDADGALRAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- MQZIGYBFDRPAKN-ZWAPEEGVSA-N astaxanthin Chemical compound C([C@H](O)C(=O)C=1C)C(C)(C)C=1/C=C/C(/C)=C/C=C/C(/C)=C/C=C/C=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)C(=O)[C@@H](O)CC1(C)C MQZIGYBFDRPAKN-ZWAPEEGVSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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Abstract
Description
従って本発明では、高温及び輸送時の安定性に優れ、高保湿成分を配合しても後肌のべたつき感がなく、かつ水による洗い流し後の保湿機能と荒れ肌改善機能にも優れる水中油型乳化化粧料を提供することを課題とする。
(A)分子内に複数の疎水基と複数の親水基とを有する多鎖多親水基型界面活性剤
(B)炭素数12〜22の高級アルコール及び/又は炭素数12〜22の脂肪酸モノグリセリルから選ばれる一種又は二種以上
(C)ペースト油
を含有する水中油型乳化化粧料、
または、前記成分(A)がジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムである前記水中油型乳化化粧料、
さらに成分(D)として、L−アスコルビン酸2−グルコシド、イソプロピルメチルフェノール、ナイアシンアミド、トラネキサム酸、アラントイン、グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム、ニコチン酸トコフェロール、アスタキサンチンから選択される一種又は二種以上を含む前記水中油型乳化化粧料に関する。
また、親水基としては、例えば、カルボキシル基、スルホン酸基、硫酸残基、リン酸残基、アミノ基、4級アンモニウム基、ピリジニウム基、スルホニウム基又はそれらの塩等、オキシアルキレン基、ポリエチレングリコール基等が挙げられる。塩としては、例えば、アルカリ金属塩、アルカリ土類金属塩、アンモニウム塩、有機ア
ミン塩、塩基性アミノ酸塩等が挙げられる。
試験法:50℃に加熱した油剤10gを200mlビーカーに秤り取り、デスパーミキサーにて3000rpmで攪拌しながら50℃の精製水を徐々に添加し、水が排液しない最大限(質量g)を測定し、この数値を10で除し、100倍して抱水力とした。
下記表1に示す処方の乳液を、下記の製造方法に基づき調製し、高温及び輸送時の安定性、後肌のべたつきのなさ、塗布直後の保湿感、洗い流し後の保湿機能、荒れ肌改善機能ついて下記の方法により評価した。その結果も併せて表1〜2に示す。
A:成分1〜5を70℃で均一に混合溶解する。
B:成分6〜22を70℃で均一に混合溶解する。
C:AにBを加え乳化する。
D:Cに成分23〜27をを加え、乳化化粧料を得た。
イ.安定性(高温条件下)
ロ.安定性(輸送時)
ハ.後肌のべたつきのなさ
ニ.塗布直後の保湿感
ホ.洗い流し後の保湿機能
ヘ.荒れ肌改善機能
[イ.安定性(高温条件下)]
各試料をガラス製の規格びんに入れ、40℃に設定した恒温槽へ1ヶ月間静置保管した後、観察した結果を示す。
(判定):(試験結果)
〇 :製造直後と比較して変化なし
× :クリーミングが見られる
各試料を8号規格瓶に30ml充填し、振動機(MIX−101、旭テクノグラス社製)に粘着テープで固定し、目盛り12時の位置にて30分間振動させた。
(判定):(試験結果)
◎ :油剤の分離がなく、均一な乳化状態
〇 :油剤の水滴が数滴見られるが、ほぼ均一な乳化状態
× :油剤の分離が見られ、不均一な乳化状態
20〜40代の女性で官能評価の訓練を受け、一定の基準で評価が可能な専門パネルを10名選定した。各試料を顔全体に使用してもらい、なじませた後の肌表面にべたつきを感じるかについて、下記絶対評価にて5段階に評価し評点を付け、各試料ごとにパネル全員の評点合計から、その平均値を算出し、下記4段階判定基準により判定した。
(絶対評価基準)
(評点):(評価)
5点:べたつきを感じない
4点:ほとんどべたつきを感じない
3点:ややべたつきを感じる
2点:べたつきを感じる
1点:非常にべたつきを感じる
(4段階判定基準)
(判定):(評点の平均点)
◎ :4点を超える :非常に良好
○ :3点を超える4点以下:良好
△ :2点を超える3点以下:やや不良
× :2点以下 :不良
前記の評価項目ハ(後肌のべたつきのなさ)と同様は評価を行い、下記4段階判定基準により判定した。
(絶対評価基準)
(評点):(評価)
5点:
4点:
3点:
2点:
1点:
(4段階判定基準)
(判定):(評点の平均点)
◎ :4点を超える :非常に良好
○ :3点を超える4点以下:良好
△ :2点を超える3点以下:やや不良
× :2点以下 :不良
両手の甲に肌荒れが見られる20〜40代の男性パネル6名、女性パネル1名を選定した。室温22℃、湿度50%に設定した室内で15分間順化してから、左右の手の甲の角層水分量をSKICON−200EX(アイ・ビイ・エス社製)を用いて測定した(初期値)。その後、一方の手の甲は無塗布、残りの一方は各試料2gを1日2回以上、手洗い後に塗布し、再度洗い流す工程を5日間、繰り返してもらった。6日後に、初期値測定時と同様に角層水分量を測定した(6日後測定値)。保湿力として、下記の式により値を算出した。
保湿力={各試料を塗布した側の水分量(6日後測定値)/各試料を塗布した側の水分量(初期値)}/{無塗布側の水分量(6日後測定値)/無塗布側の水分量(初期値)}
(4段階判定基準)
(判定):(保湿力の平均点)
◎ :2以上
○ :1.2以上2未満
△ :1.2未満
× :1.2以下
両手の甲に肌荒れが見られる20〜40代の男性パネル6名、女性パネル1名を選定した。室温22℃、湿度50%に設定した室内で15分間順化してから、左右の手の甲の角層状態をマイクロスコープカメラ(HIROX社製、DIGITAL MICROSCOPE KH−7700、40倍、斜光条件下)を用いて撮影した(初期状態)。その後、前記評価項目ホ(洗い流し後の保湿機能)と同様な工程を経て、6日後に、初期状態観察時と同様に角層状態の観察を行った(6日後の状態)。初期状態に対して6日後の状態を、下記の基準で判定した。
(4段階判定基準)
(判定):(評価)
◎ :角層のはがれが明らかに改善している
○ :角層のはがれがやや改善している
× :角層のはがれの改善が見られず初期値と同等である
これに対して成分(A)に替えて他のアニオン界面活性剤を用いた比較例1は、後肌のべたつき感のなさ、塗布直後の保湿感、洗い流し後の保湿機能、荒れ肌改善機能において劣るものであった。
また、成分(B)を含有しない比較例2は、全ての評価項目において劣るものであった。
また、成分(C)に替えて液状油剤を用いた比較例3は、全ての評価項目において、本発明品に劣るものであった。
(成分) (%)
1.精製水 残量
2.ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウム 0.2
3.(アクリル酸/アクリル酸アルキル(C10−30))コポリマー 1.0
4.(アクリル酸Na/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)コポリマー 0.5
5.コレス−30 0.08
6.コレス−5 0.1
7.ステアリン酸グリセリル 0.5
8.セトステアリルアルコール 1.0
9.ワセリン 5.0
10.オレイン酸フィトステリル 1.0
11.マカデミアナッツ油脂肪酸フィトステリル 1.5
12.ジメチルポリシロキサン(10CS) 0.5
13.セラミド3 0.1
14.アスタキサンチン 0.1
15.トコフェロール 0.01
16.α−オレフィンオリゴマー 5.0
17.2−エチルヘキサン酸セチル 5.0
18.水酸化ナトリウム 0.3
19.エタノール 3.0
20.香料 0.2
A:成分1〜4を70℃で均一に混合溶解する。
B:成分5〜17を80℃で均一に溶解混合する。
C:AにBを添加し70℃で乳化する。
D:Cを40℃まで冷却した後、成分18〜20を添加混合し、ハンドクリームを得た。
Claims (3)
- 次の成分(A)〜(C);
(A)分子内に複数の疎水基と複数の親水基とを有する多鎖多親水基型界面活性剤
(B)炭素数12〜22の高級アルコール及び/又は炭素数12〜22の脂肪酸モノグリセリルから選ばれる一種又は二種以上
(C)ペースト油
を含有する水中油型乳化化粧料。 - 成分(A)がジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムである請求項1に記載の水中油型乳化化粧料。
- さらに成分(D)として、L−アスコルビン酸2−グルコシド、イソプロピルメチルフェノール、ナイアシンアミド、トラネキサム酸、アラントイン、グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム、ニコチン酸トコフェロール、アスタキサンチンから選択される一種又は二種以上を含有する請求項1〜2に記載の水中油型乳化化粧料。
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APRO LIFE SCIENCE INSTITUTE, JAPAN: "Moist Rich Cream", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6023001722, October 2010 (2010-10-01), ISSN: 0004969970 * |
ASUBISOU, JAPAN: "Perfection Treatment Bonne! Femme Emulsion", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6022026132, May 2017 (2017-05-01), ISSN: 0004969974 * |
BEVERLY GLEN LABORATORIES, JAPAN: "Anti-Wrinkle Serum", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6023001720, February 2016 (2016-02-01), ISSN: 0004969968 * |
C'BON COSMETICS, JAPAN: "White Serum", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6021048471, July 2017 (2017-07-01), ISSN: 0004969975 * |
HOUSE OF ROSE, JAPAN: "Whitening Spots Essence", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6021048472, April 2017 (2017-04-01), ISSN: 0004969971 * |
MERRYWEATHER, JAPAN: "Lifting Creamy Serum", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6021048473, April 2016 (2016-04-01), ISSN: 0004969976 * |
MOIST VEIL HAND MILK: "Mintel GNPD [online]", KOSE COSMEPORT, JAPAN, JPN6023001718, September 2017 (2017-09-01), ISSN: 0004969966 * |
NARIS COSMETICS, JAPAN: "Creme", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6022026130, September 2017 (2017-09-01), ISSN: 0004969972 * |
NATURAL SCIENCE, JAPAN: "Oligo Milk", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6022026131, January 2017 (2017-01-01), ISSN: 0004969973 * |
NATURAL SCIENCE, JAPAN: "Oligo Milk", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6023001716, January 2018 (2018-01-01), ISSN: 0004969964 * |
NIPPON MENARD COSMETIC, FRANCE: "Emulsion", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6023001721, November 2015 (2015-11-01), ISSN: 0004969969 * |
SHISEIDO, JAPAN: "Premium Repair Mask", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6023001717, October 2017 (2017-10-01), ISSN: 0004969965 * |
WATSONS PERSONAL CARE STORES, CHINA: "Platinum Anti-Acne & Repairing Essence", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6023001715, December 2013 (2013-12-01), ISSN: 0004969963 * |
YI-CHENG ENTERPRISE, TAIWAN: "Deep Repair Hair Treatment", MINTEL GNPD [ONLINE], JPN6023001719, August 2017 (2017-08-01), ISSN: 0004969967 * |
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