JP2002541082A - Cosmetic and dermatological skin care compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

  (57) [Summary] The present invention relates to compositions suitable for skin care for cosmetics and skin. In particular, the composition is used to protect the skin from damage and its secondary reactions due to increasing ozone concentrations in the atmosphere. Said composition comprises at least one oxidoreductase and at least one proteinase inhibitor, wherein the mass ratio of oxidoreductase to proteinase inhibitor is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10. , More preferably from 6: 1 to 1: 6.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to compositions for cosmetic and dermatological skin care, which compositions contain at least one oxidoreductase and at least one proteinase inhibitor. The composition according to the invention has, for example, the form of a cream, lotion, emulsion, gel, powder, plaster or other applied form.

[0002] The role of the skin as a body organ is the defense and mediation of the environment. Various biochemical and biophysical systems are working to preserve this exposed organ. For example, the immune system protects the skin from damage by pathogenic microorganisms, the melanogenesis system controls pigmentation, avoids skin damage from ultraviolet radiation, and the lipid system reduces the loss of transdermally absorbed water, Controls the keratin system to form a mechanically resistant stratum corneum. Such systems are based on complex chemical processes, the promotion of which involves, inter alia, induction by enzymes and inhibition by enzyme inhibition. Slight inhibition or disinhibition of these biochemical systems quickly and appreciably degenerates the skin. However, a visible and perceptible skin condition is a measure of beauty, health and youth; maintaining it is the purpose of skin-care cosmetics.

[0003] Human skin is usually exposed to extraneous or extrinsic stress factors, such as ultraviolet light, ozone or other harmful substances present in the atmosphere (light or more intense stimuli).
Reacts with environmental pollutants). In particular, the skin is damaged by oxygen radicals released during the irritant response and by specific proteinases. This negatively affects, for example, the appearance or elasticity or barrier function of the skin. That is, body-specific proteinases such as tryptase, elastase, collagenase and cathepsin, which are over-recruited during the inflammatory process and immune response, attack the skin and especially its structural proteins, such as collagen and elastin.

[0004] EP 0 532 465 relates to the use of selective protein fractions obtained from legume species as cosmetic and dermatological skin care and proteinase inhibitors for the treatment of inflammatory skin disorders.

[0005] Surprisingly, the combination of one oxidoreductase with one proteinase inhibitor is unexpectedly suitable for cosmetic and dermatological skin care and inflammatory skin disorders, It has been found to be suitable for protecting skin from damage by harmful substances present in the atmosphere, such as ozone, nitrogen oxides, dust particles, etc., and ultraviolet rays and detergents, and protection from ozone damage is fundamental. Particularly preferred is the combination of oxidoreductase produced and purified by biotechnology with a proteinase inhibitor, preferably an inhibitor produced from a legume species and having a selective protein fraction. Human keratin-synthesizing cells exposed to atmospheric ozone in in vivo tests show increased viability. Clinical trials by volunteers of skin that has been irritated or irritated with detergent and UV light, respectively, have shown that application of the compositions of the present invention significantly eliminates skin hypersensitivity. Similarly, in vivo tests for skin elasticity show significant improvements in skin elasticity and resistance.

[0006] The invention is defined in the claims. The invention relates in particular to a composition for cosmetic and dermatological skin care, in particular for protecting against damage from increased ozone in the atmosphere and against its secondary reactions, said composition comprising at least 1 Characterized in that it contains at least one oxidoreductase and at least one proteinase inhibitor.

The invention also relates to the use of at least one oxidoreductase and at least one proteinase inhibitor for cosmetic and dermatological skin care and for the treatment of inflammatory skin reactions, in particular for the toxic substances present in the atmosphere (ozone , Nitrogen oxides, dust particles, etc.), UV radiation and detergents.

Furthermore, the present invention also relates to formulations comprising the compositions according to the invention, preferably in the form of creams, lotions, emulsions, gels, powders, plasters or other cosmetic products.

[0009] In principle, the weight ratio of oxidoreductase to proteinase inhibitor is preferably from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably from 6: 1 to 1:10. 1: 6.

For dermatological and cosmetic uses, the substances according to the invention are advantageously incorporated into skin-friendly carriers, such as creams, lotions, gels, face masks, powders or plasters, to reduce the acidity. The pH range is 5.5-9. With the exception of plasters, the final formulation is usually from 0.001 to 1% by weight of the composition according to the invention as dry substance, preferably calculated on the total weight of the final formulation (100% by weight), advantageously 0.01 ~
The content is 0.5% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by mass. However, the formulation may contain higher amounts, e.g., calculated on the total mass of the final formulation,
It may be about 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 2.2% by weight. The upper limit is not exact. On the other hand, the external plaster of the composition of the present invention contains the composition of the present invention in an amount of up to 10% by mass, preferably up to 5% by mass, based on the total mass (100% by mass) of the final plaster formulation. contains. The composition contains the proteinase inhibitor, preferably in an amount of at least 0.005% by weight, more preferably at least 0.01% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition. In order to facilitate the formulation of a liquid or semi-solid formulation, an active agent comprising a composition of the invention containing at least one oxidoreductase and at least one proteinase inhibitor is added in a first step to an active agent of the invention. Methyl-p for dissolving the drug combination in water and preventing the growth of microorganisms
Very homogeneous and stable concentrations can be achieved by adding water-soluble preservatives such as oxybenzoate and polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol or propylene glycol to stabilize the active agent. ,On this occasion,
The active agent content is 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, as dry substance.

The oxidoreductase used in the present invention can capture and neutralize free oxygen radicals, respectively. Oxidoreductase is advantageously produced by biotechnology. This method is described, for example, in Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol. (1987).
26, p.531-536. Examples of the oxidoreductase include lactoperoxidase, glutathione oxidase, glutathione reductase, glutathione peroxidase, superoxide dismutase, thiol oxidase, peroxidase, thioredoxin reductase, cytochrome c reductase, and cytochrome oxidase. Lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and superoxide dismutase are preferred.

[0012] The proteinase inhibitors used in the present invention can neutralize non-specific proteinases. The proteinase inhibitors used in the present invention are: a) isolated from legume species; b) exhibiting at least one band in polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis with sodium dodecyl sulfate; c) 3000 to 30000 g / mol. D) the total nitrogen content relative to the protein content is between 14% and 20% and the amino nitrogen is between 1% and 2%, e) soluble in water and aqueous electrolyte solutions, and in ethanol and acetone A protein fraction containing at least one protein that is insoluble and f) precipitates strongly in aqueous solution after addition of trichloroacetic acid, sulfosalicylic acid, picric acid or benzethonium chloride, and g) inhibits proteinases.

[0013] Such advantageous proteinase inhibitors are described, for example, in EP-053246.
5.

The proteins and proteinase inhibitors used according to the invention are each advantageously a legume species, such as Phaseolus angularis, Phaselous lunatus
, `Haseolus aureus, Phaseolus vulgaris, Phaseolus coccineus, Phaseolus l
Bean types such as imensis, pea types such as Lathyrus odoratus,
Obtained from soybeans such as Glycine max and Glycine hispida, peanuts such as Arachis hypogaea, and species of tropical legumes of the genus Cajanus, Dolichus, Vigna and Vicia. Soy or rye are advantageous.

The compositions according to the invention are advantageously used for the treatment of day creams, after-sun creams, dry and less elastic skin, for skins sensitive to harmful environmental substances such as ozone. Incorporated in products for or for regenerating and treating fatigued, aging or stressed skin.

The compositions of the present invention are advantageously manufactured on an aqueous basis and include further additives such as solvents, preservatives, buffers, antioxidants and / or contaminants.
These additives are known and are cited, for example, in the CTFA dictionary. Preferred solvents are, for example, polyglycols or polyalcohols, preferably glycerin.
Preferred preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben or butylparaben, such preservatives being commercially available as a mixture under the registered trademark Phenonip®. Further additives are known to the expert.

The compositions of the present invention may be combined with an active agent, such as a sunscreen, humectant, skin-regenerating agent, skin protectant and / or self tanner, self tanning agent. These active agents are known. Sunscreens are, for example, octylmethoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, benzophenone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and related compounds. Wetting agents are, for example, glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and other polysaccharides, proteins and protein hydrolysates such as collagen, elastin, wheat protein hydrolysates and similar compounds, urea, glycols and polyglycols. Skin-regenerating agents are, for example, vitamins, alpha-hydroxy acids, amino acids and related compounds. Skin protection agents are, for example, ceramides, free fatty acids, sterols, triglycerides. Self-tanner is, for example, dihydroxyacetone or erythrulose.

Methods for measuring inflammatory skin and considerable healing methods are known. The following examples illustrate the invention.

Embodiment 1

[0020]

[Table 1]

* Obtained from soy.

Formulation of make-up lotion: a) The additives described in A) of Table 1 are heated at 70 ° C. in a mixer and mixing well, after which the substances described in B) of Table 1 are brought to a temperature of 75
Mix in a mixer at 0 ° C.

B) The mixture of components B) is then added to mixture A at 70 ° C. with slow stirring, cooled to 50 ° C. after the end of the addition, homogenized and finally cooled to 30 ° C. Thereafter, a contaminant is added and the mixture is stirred and cooled. A very effective makeup lotion can be obtained.

Embodiment 2

[0025]

[Table 2]

* Obtained from soy.

Formulation of protective and reclaimed lipstick a) Melt the wax premix described in Table 2, No. 1 at 80 ° C. Two
The five components are separately milled in a ball mill to a homogenized suspension with a particle size of 10-30 μm. This suspension is added to the molten wax premix and homogenized. Finally, components 6 and 7 are added one by one.

B) Melt component 8 at 80. By heating components 9 to 13 to 80 ° C. and adding to the molten component 8, an emulsion of the components described in B) is obtained.

C) adding the emulsion of component B) at 80 ° C. to the mixture obtained in paragraph a),
Stir well, pour into mold (lipstick mold) and cool. The lipstick produced in this way protects the lips from harmful environmental effects such as ozone, nitrogen oxides, ultraviolet rays and detergents.

Embodiment 3

[0031]

[Table 3]

* Obtained from rye.

Formulation of emulsion-like shower gel for skin cleansing and skin care:
a) Ingredient A) is mixed well. Compound 7 is dissolved in compound 6. The solution obtained is added to the mixture of compound A).

B) The compounds of column C) are dissolved one by one in compound 8. The resulting solution is stirred under a
).

C) Add the compound of column D to the mixture obtained in b) with stirring and adjust the pH of the resulting gel to 5.2.

Embodiment 4

[0037]

[Table 4]

* Obtained from rye.

Formulation of the protected day cream: a) Mix the compounds of column A) and heat to 70 ° C. with mixing. Heat the compound of column B) to 75 ° C.

B) The resulting mixture of column B) is added with stirring to the mixture obtained in column A), after which the resulting mixture is cooled to 50 ° C., homogenized and further cooled to 30 ° C.

C) Add compound 16 from column C) and stir the whole. A day cream having an effective protection from environmental influences is obtained.

Embodiment 5

[0043]

[Table 5]

Formulation of reconstituted gel: a) Dissolve components 2 to 6 of column A) in water. The components 7 and 8 of column B) are added for the purpose of bulking and neutralizing the resulting mixture to give a gel.

B) Compounds 9 and 10 are added to the resulting gel. After dissolving component 12 in component 11, column D is incorporated into the gel. Obtain a clear, solid gel suitable for intensive care of tired or slightly damaged skin.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) A61K 7/027 A61K 7/027 7/44 7/44 7/48 7/48 9/08 9/08 9 / 107 9/107 9/14 9/14 9/70 401 9/70 401 35/78 35/78 J 38/44 45/00 38/55 A61P 17/00 45/00 17/16 A61P 17/00 43 / 00 111 17/16 A61K 37/50 43/00 111 37/64 (81) Designated country EP (AT, BE, CH, CY, DE, DK, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, IE, IT , LU, MC, NL, PT, SE), OA (BF, BJ, CF, CG, CI, CM, GA, GN, GW, ML, MR, NE, SN, TD, TG), AP (GH, GM) , KE, LS, MW, SD, SL, SZ, TZ, UG, ZW), EA (AM, AZ, BY, K G, KZ, MD, RU, TJ, TM), AE, AG, AL, AM, AT, AU, AZ, BA, BB, BG, BR, BY, CA, CH, CN, CR, CU, CZ, DE, DK, DM, DZ, EE, ES, FI, GB, GD, GE, GH, GM, HR, HU, ID, IL, IN, IS, JP, KE, KG, KP, KR, KZ, LC , LK, LR, LS, LT, LU, LV, MA, MD, MG, MK, MN, MW, MX, NO, NZ, PL, PT, RO, RU, SD, SE, SG, SI, SK, SL, TJ, TM, TR, TT, TZ, UA, UG, US, UZ, VN, YU, ZA, ZWF Term (reference) 4C076 AA06 AA09 AA11 AA17 AA29 AA72 BB31 CC03 CC29 4C083 AA122 AB232 AB242 AB432 AC012 AC072 AC122 AC182 AC212 AC342 AC352 AC422 AC442 AC482 AC542 AC582 AC692 AC792 AC812 AC852 AD042 AD092 AD152 AD411 AD471 AD472 AD511 CC04 CC05 CC13 CC19 DD17 EE12 EE16 EE17 FF05 4C084 AA01 AA17 DC23 MA02 MA17 MA22 MA28 MA32 MA63 NA14 ZA892 ZC201 4C088 AB59 AC04 BA16 CA19 MA17 MA28 MA43 MA63 NA14 ZA89 ZC20

Claims (12)

[Claims] 1. A composition suitable for cosmetic and dermatological skin care, especially for protecting the skin from damage and its secondary reactions due to increased ozone concentration in the atmosphere, said composition comprising: It contains at least one oxidoreductase and at least one proteinase inhibitor, wherein the mass ratio of oxidoreductase to proteinase inhibitor is preferably 20: 1.
１ ： 1: 20, more preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably from 6: 1 to 1: 6. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition contains proteinase inhibitors in an amount of at least 0.005% by weight, preferably at least 0.01% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition as described. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition contains oxidoreductase produced and purified by biotechnology. 4. A proteinase inhibitor comprising: a) isolated from a legume species; b) showing at least one band in polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis with sodium dodecyl sulfate; c) 3000 to 30000 g / mol. D) total nitrogen content relative to protein content is 14% -20% and amino nitrogen is 1% -2%, e) soluble in water and aqueous electrolyte solutions, insoluble in ethanol and acetone F) a protein fraction containing at least one protein, which f) precipitates strongly in aqueous solution after addition of trichloroacetic acid, sulfosalicylic acid, picric acid or benzethonium chloride, and g) inhibits proteinases. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the proteinase inhibitor is obtained from a legume species, preferably soy or rye. 6. Dermatological and cosmetic products containing the composition according to claim 1, which are creams, lotions, gels, face masks, powders or plasters. Formulations for biological applications. 7. The formulation according to claim 6, which exhibits an acidity ranging from 5.5 to 9. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is calculated on the total weight (100% by weight) of the final composition, wherein the composition according to claim 1 has a dry substance content of 0%. 0.001 to 2.2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, 8. A cream, a lotion, a gel, a face mask or a powder in the form of a powder.
The formulation according to any one of the preceding claims. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the plaster is calculated as dry matter with respect to the total weight of the final plaster formulation (100% by weight). A plaster for transdermal application of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains up to% by weight. 10. A day cream, after sun cream and a treatment for dry and less elastic skin, characterized in that it contains a composition according to claim 1. Description: A product for the treatment of skin that is sensitive to harmful environmental substances, especially ozone. 11. The formulation according to claim 1, wherein the formulation additionally contains a sunscreen, a wetting agent, a skin-regenerating agent, a skin-protecting agent and / or a self-tanner. . 12. Cosmetic and dermatological skin care and treatment of inflammatory skin reactions, especially protecting the skin from damage by atmospheric harmful substances such as ozone, nitrogen oxides, dust particles, ultraviolet rays and detergents. Use of a composition according to any of claims 1 to 11 for the preparation of a composition.