JP2002302835A - Heteroshrinkable polyester combined filament yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a heteroshrinkable polyester combined filament yarn suitable for producing silky woven/knitted fabrics excellent in puffiness, dry touch, drape and firm texture despite fundamentally maintaining both the feeling and characteristics of silk. SOLUTION: This heteroshrinkable polyester combined filament yarn is obtained by a direct spin-draw method using two kinds of polyesters; wherein the lower-shrinkage yarn contains 1-5 mass% of a ceramic compound, while the higher-shrinkage yarn is made from a copolyester from 2,2-bis[4-(β- hydroxyethoxy)phenyl]propane and isophthalic acid, and the boiling water shrinkage difference between the higher-shrinkage yarn and the lower-shrinkage yarn is 5-25% and the thermal shrinkage stress of the higher-shrinkage yarn is 0.2-0.35 cN/dtex.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester hetero-shrinkable fiber which can impart a good bulge, a dry feeling, a drape property and a silky feeling excellent in firmness and firmness to a fabric obtained by knitting and weaving. It is about yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn is a high value-added material capable of imparting a good bulge, dryness, drape, and firmness to a fabric obtained by knitting and weaving. It is widely used as a material and is produced in large quantities because it is suitable as a high-quality silky material.

[0003] As a general production method, there are a spinning fiber mixing method, a drawing fiber mixing method, a drawn yarn mixing fiber method and the like. In particular, the spinning fiber blending method uses two types of polyester, a high-shrinkage polyester having a copolymer component and a low-shrinkage polyester having substantially no copolymer component, in a spinning process. A method of obtaining a drawn undrawn yarn and drawing it is adopted.

[0004] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-36138 discloses a production method by a direct spinning drawing method in which the spun mixed yarn is drawn without being once wound up and then wound up into a package. From the viewpoint of productivity, the spinning fiber blending method is advantageous, and in particular, the direct spinning drawing method can further reduce the cost, and can be said to be a very advantageous production method.

[0005] However, when the non-shrinkage mixed fiber obtained by the direct spin drawing method in which the fiber is drawn without being wound and then wound into a package, a silky feel is produced due to the difference in yarn length after heat treatment when it is made into a woven fabric. However, it lacked a feeling of swelling and firmness, and a satisfactory silky fabric could not be obtained.

In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-19528,
Different shrink mixed yarns using a copolymer polyester of 2,2-bis {4-1 (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane and isophthalic acid as a high shrink yarn component have been proposed.
When a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn using such a copolymerized polyester is formed into a woven or knitted fabric, a silky woven fabric satisfying both the swelling feeling and the firmness and stiffness, which was conventionally insufficient, can be obtained. However, since this yarn has too high shrinkage performance, the feeling of swelling is emphasized too much, the feeling of swelling remains, and the lack of resilience peculiar to silky fabrics. Could not cope.

[0007]

The diversification of the needs of the market and the diversification of the woven and knitted fabrics corresponding to the diversification are progressing, and the polyester which does not get tired simply by resembling the conventional mere silk but produces a feeling beyond the silk. The need for silky fabrics continues to grow without knowing it will stop.

In view of the above, the present invention is suitable for obtaining a silky woven or knitted fabric which is basically excellent in swelling, dryness, drapability and firmness while maintaining the feel and characteristics of silk. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn.

[0009]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems and to provide a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn for polyester silky woven or knitted fabric. In order to obtain silky weaves and knits with excellent swelling, dryness, drapability and firmness while maintaining silky performance, the amount of ceramic compound contained in the yarn and heat The present inventors have arrived at the present invention by finding that the shrinkage characteristics may be appropriately set. That is, in the present invention, the low shrinkage yarn contains 1 to 5% by mass of the ceramic compound, and the high shrinkage yarn is a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn obtained by a direct spinning and drawing method using two kinds of polyesters. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A differently shrinkable mixed fiber yarn comprising a copolymerized polyester of 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane and isophthalic acid, and satisfying the following formulas Is what you do. ΔWS (%): 5 ≦ ΔWS ≦ 25 PS (cN / dtex): 0.2 ≦ PS ≦ 0.35 where ΔWS: High shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn Difference in boiling water shrinkage ratio PS: heat shrinkage stress of highly shrinkable yarn

[0010]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In order to impart resilience, dryness, drapability and firmness while having the rich swelling that is the target of the present invention, the amount of the ceramic compound contained in the low shrinkage yarn, as well as the high shrinkage, Boiling water shrinkage of the yarn [hereinafter referred to as WS (H)]. ] And the boiling water shrinkage of the low shrinkage yarn [hereinafter referred to as WS (L). ] And the thermal stress of the highly shrinkable yarn (hereinafter, referred to as ΔWS).
Called PS. The shrinkage characteristic indicated by () is an important characteristic and needs to be set in a specific range.

First, the content of the ceramic compound in the low shrinkage yarn needs to be 1 to 5% by mass in order to impart the resilience and dryness which are the targets of the present invention.
When the content of the ceramics compound is less than 1% by mass, the fabric lacks resilience and dryness, and is not different from a conventional fabric using a different shrinkage mixed fiber. On the other hand, when the content of the ceramics compound exceeds 5% by mass, only the influence of the ceramics compound is excessively emphasized, resulting in a fabric having a coarse and hard feeling, and a low commercial value. Further, during the production of yarns and the weaving and weaving, fluff and yarn breakage due to contact abrasion with guides and the like frequently occur, and the workability decreases. That is, the feature of the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is that the low shrinkage yarn contains a relatively high concentration of a ceramic compound of 1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less to impart appropriate rigidity to the fiber, It rebounds between fibers or between single yarns to give the fabric a resilience and dryness.

However, even if the low-shrinkage yarn and the high-shrinkage yarn contain a ceramic compound at a high concentration, only a coarse hardness is emphasized, but no resilience and dryness are imparted. Even if the ceramic compound is contained in the highly shrinkable yarn,
Its function is to reduce friction to a guide or the like and to provide a slight concealing property (prevention of see-through) during yarn production and weaving, and there are few functions for imparting a repulsive feeling and a dry feeling. Therefore, when a ceramic compound is contained in the highly shrinkable yarn, the content is preferably 0.5% by mass or less.

The content of the ceramic compound in the low shrinkage yarn can be appropriately selected in accordance with the desired resilience and dryness. When weight is emphasized, 1 to 5% by mass is particularly preferable. Examples of the ceramic compound to be contained in the low-shrinkable yarn and the high-shrinkable yarn include titanium, barium, talc, and silica. Titanium oxide, which is relatively inexpensive and versatile, is preferable.

Next, in order to impart a drape property and firmness while having a swelling feeling which is the target of the present invention, the following properties must be within a specific range.
That is, the ΔWS of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention needs to be 5% or more and 25% or less, and when the ΔWS is less than 5%, the yarn length difference in the fabric obtained by knitting and weaving is sufficient. Instead, it has a paper-like feel with little swelling. Further, when the ΔWS exceeds 25%, although a feeling of swelling appears, the difference in yarn length becomes too large due to the heat treatment, resulting in a fabric having a fluffy feeling, or a buckling of the low shrinkage yarn, resulting in an appearance of the fabric surface. Deteriorates, and pilling occurs to significantly impair the quality. By setting ΔWS to preferably in the range of 8% or more and 20% or less, the feeling of swelling can be further enhanced.

Next, the PS of the highly shrinkable yarn is 0.2 cN / dtex.
As described above, it is necessary to set the value to 0.35 cN / dtex or less. Generally, in a heat treatment and dyeing process after forming a fabric, shrinkage of the yarn is limited by the pressure of adjacent yarns or the pressure of the weft. Therefore, if the PS is less than 0.2 cN / dtex, even if the shrinkage of the highly shrinkable yarn is high, the shrinkage is limited and sufficient shrinkage is not exhibited, so that the intended swelling feeling cannot be obtained, and paper-like wind is not obtained. Be combined. Also, if PS is 0.3
If it exceeds 5 cN / dtex, the high shrinkage yarn shrinks more than necessary,
The surface of the fabric is roughened due to lack of drapability or unevenness of shrinkage, which significantly impairs the quality of the surface. Therefore,
The PS of the highly shrinkable yarn is 0.2cN / dtex or more, 0.35cN / d
tex or less, more drapability,
In order to obtain a fabric having a good surface feel, it is preferable that the thickness be 0.22 cN / dtex or more and 0.32 cN / dtex or less.

Next, the polyester constituting the high shrinkable yarn has good dyeing properties and light fastness, and must satisfy the ΔWS and PS defined in the present invention. 2,2-bis @ 4-
(Β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane (hereinafter referred to as BAEO) and isophthalic acid (hereinafter IPA)
Called. ) Must be used. ΔWS is set to 5% or more, PS is set to 0.2 cN / dtex or more, and BAEO is used to impart dryness, resilience, drapability and firmness while having the swelling feeling targeted by the present invention. The total copolymerization amount of IPA is preferably at least 4 mol%, particularly preferably 6 to 12 mol%. Also,
If the total amount of the copolymers exceeds 15 mol%, the WS (H) and PS of the highly shrinkable yarn become too high to deteriorate the processability due to the difference in yarn length, or the melting point and the crystal due to the increase in the copolymerization amount. In addition, the yarn resistance during the spinning is reduced, the thermal stability in the fabric is deteriorated, and the light fastness to dyeing is easily deteriorated. On the other hand, B
If the total copolymerization amount of AEO and IPA is less than 4 mol%,
ΔWS and PS are too low, and tend to be paper-like.

Next, the polyester of the low shrinkage yarn constituting the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PET) suitable for use as a silky material. Is preferred. Further, the WS (L) of the low shrinkage yarn is preferably 15% or less.
Even if S is 5% or more, the amount of shrinkage of the entire fabric using this yarn becomes large, and the texture tends to be rough and hard. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the yarn is a highly shrinkable yarn,
The low shrinkage yarn is not particularly limited, but in order to impart a high dry feeling and resilience to the fabric, three leaves,
Irregular cross-sectional shapes such as five leaves, six leaves, and eight leaves are preferable. Also,
It may be a mixed fineness yarn with a fineness difference between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn, or between the single yarns.
It is more similar to the rich texture of silk.

The hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention can be obtained, for example, by using
It is obtained by a direct drawing method in which a melt-discharged spun mixed yarn is stretched without being once wound and packaged in one step as described in JP-A-13638, and a conventional spinning and drawing method is used. As compared with the two-step method, labor saving of the steps and a significant reduction in the production cost become possible, and this can be said to be a suitable production method.

In the present invention, the heat shrinkage characteristic WS
(H), WS (L), 調整 Adjustment of WS and PS,
The shrinkage ratios WS (H) and WS (L) of the high and low shrinkage yarns are
By appropriately selecting the temperature of the second godet roller 8 shown in FIG. 1, a desired shrinkage ratio can be adjusted. △ W
S and PS can be adjusted to desired values by appropriately selecting the copolymerization amount of BAEO and IPA in the copolymerized polyester constituting the highly shrinkable yarn.

Next, an embodiment for obtaining the different shrinkage mixed fiber of the present invention will be described in the order of steps with reference to the drawings. FIG.
It is a schematic process drawing showing one embodiment for obtaining a different contraction mixed fiber of the present invention. In FIG. 1, two types of polyester pellets, which become a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn, are separately melted and supplied from two types of extruders, and provided in a spinneret 1 using a spinning machine introduced into the same pack. The undrawn yarn 3 for the high shrinkage yarn and the undrawn yarn 2 for the low shrinkage yarn are discharged separately from the discharge holes.

The undrawn yarn 2 discharged from the spinneret 1
3 is cooled and solidified by the cooling device 4, and then the unfilled yarns 2 and 3 are bundled by the oil supply device 5, which is provided below the spinneret and also serves as a bundle, to give a predetermined oil agent while the blended undrawn yarn is formed. I do. Then, it is taken up by the l godet roller 7 via the refueling device 6 and is subsequently led to the second godet roller 8, and is stretched between the l godet roller 7 and the second godet roller 8 by the peripheral speed difference between the two rollers. 9 winds up the package 10. If necessary, interlacing nozzles 11 and 12 may be provided after applying the oil agent or before the winding machine 9 to perform the confounding treatment. In the figure, 7 'and 8' are separate rollers.

[0022]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. In the examples, the measurement and evaluation of each physical property value are as follows.
The procedure was as follows. Further, the measurement of the shrinkage difference ΔWS and the shrinkage stress PS between the boiling water shrinkage ratio WS (H) of the high shrinkage yarn constituting the different shrinkage mixed yarn and the boiling water shrinkage ratio WS (L) of the low shrinkage yarn, The separation was performed separately from the mixed yarn. 1) WS (%) The yarn has a circumference l. A sample that was wound 20 times with a 00m skein machine was used as the sample, and its initial length was L1 under a 0.1cN / dtex strain.
Ask for. Next, after treating in boiling water under no load for 30 minutes, the mixture was treated at 0. The length L2 after the treatment under a load of lcN / dtex is obtained, and is calculated by the following equation. This is measured five times for one sample, and the average value is defined as the boiling water shrinkage. The difference between the boiling water shrinkage [WS (H)] of the high shrinkable yarn thus calculated and the boiling water shrinkage [WS (L)] of the low shrinkable yarn was defined as ΔWS. Boiling water shrinkage (%) = [(L1-L2) / Ll] × 1
00 ΔWS (%) = WS (H) −WS (L) 2) PS (cN / dtex) A highly shrinkable yarn obtained by separating from a different shrinkage mixed fiber is formed into a loop of about 15 cm, and heat is manufactured by Kanebo Engineering. Under a load of 0.05 cN / dtex (Y) using a stress measuring device (ME-2 type), a contraction stress curve is drawn on a chart under conditions of a heating rate of 300 ° C./120 S, and the maximum contraction stress value (X) is calculated and PS is calculated. PS (cN / dtex) = (XY) / [actual fineness (dtex) *
2) 3) Evaluation of hand The swelling, softness, drape, and firmness are comprehensively evaluated in an eight to one stage by sensory evaluation. Grade 8 was the best, Grade 1 was poor, and Grade 6 or higher was accepted.

Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 As a polyester for highly shrinkable yarns, an esterification reaction was carried out using terephthalic acid / ethylene guzocol and IPA / ethylene glycol slurry, and then BAEO ethylene Glycol solution is added, polymerization is performed in a usual manner,
Using a mixed solvent of phenol and ethane tetrachloride, etc.
As shown in Table 1 where the intrinsic viscosity measured at 0 ° C is 0.60,
Several kinds of polyester pellets having different copolymerization ratios were obtained. It should be noted that titanium oxide was used as a ceramic compound in 0.1.
4% by weight were added. In addition, several types of polyester pellets having different amounts of ceramics as shown in Table 1 were obtained as low shrinkage yarn polyesters. Note that titanium oxide was added as a ceramic compound.

The polyester for the high shrinkage yarn and the polyester for the low shrinkage yarn are separately melted and supplied from the two extruders shown in FIG. 1 and are provided on the spinneret 1 using a spinning machine introduced into the same pack. The left and right discharge holes were discharged separately from 24 discharge holes each having a Y-shaped cross section. Next, the peripheral speed of the first godet roller (hereinafter, referred to as GR1) is set to 1,400 m /
The peripheral speed of the second godet roller (hereinafter, referred to as GR2) is changed so that the elongation of the mixed fiber is 28 to 38%, and the temperature of GR2 is adjusted so that ΔWS becomes approximately 12%. After changing and drawing, a high shrinkage yarn of 24 filaments with a fineness of 41 dtex formed of a copolymerized polyester,
A different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn composed of PET and a low shrinkage yarn having a fineness of 41 dtex and 24 filaments was wound into a package.

The thus-obtained different shrinkage mixed yarn is used for warp and weft, woven into a double layer, relaxed in boiling water for 5 minutes, and dried in a relaxed state at 190 ° C. for 5 minutes. The fabric was subjected to a ripening treatment and a 20% by mass weight reduction treatment of the woven fabric with a 3% by mass sodium hydroxide solution at 100 ° C., followed by a usual polyester dyeing finish. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the physical properties and texture of the obtained different shrinkage mixed fiber.

[0026]

[Table 1]

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 show the effect of PS. Examples 1 to 3 show that when heat-treated after being made into a fabric, PS is sufficiently shrunk due to high PS, and swelling was caused. The fabric was excellent in softness, drape and the like. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, although WS and ΔWS were satisfied,
Even if the cloth was heat-treated, the PS was low and the shrinkage was not sufficient due to the low PS, resulting in a flat texture. Further, Comparative Example 2 is a PS
Was too high to give a feeling of fluttering when made into a fabric, or the low-shrinkage yarn protruded too much on the surface of the fabric, causing roughness, and the quality was extremely low.

Next, Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4 show the effect of titanium oxide used as a ceramic in the highly shrinkable yarn. The effect emphasized drape, firmness and stiffness. On the other hand, as shown in Comparative Example 3, the amount of titanium oxide was 5
%, The coarse hardness was emphasized, and since the content of titanium oxide was large, yarn breakage frequently occurred during spinning, and production could not be continued. Next, in Comparative Example 4, since the amount of titanium oxide added was less than 1%, the fabric lacked drapability and swelling.

Examples 6 to 9 and Comparative Examples 5 to 6 As polyesters for highly shrinkable yarns, 6.0 mol% of BAEO, 4.0 mol% of IPA, or BAEO used in Examples 1 and 2 was used. 4.0 mol%, 4.0 mol% of IPA was used as a copolyester, and as the polyester for low shrinkage yarn, polyester obtained by adding 2.0% by mass of titanium oxide used in Example 1 was used. The polyester for shrinkable yarn and the polyester for low shrinkable yarn were spun using the same extruder and spinneret as used in Example 1.

Next, the peripheral speed of GR1 is set to 1,400 m /
And the drawing speed is varied by variously changing the peripheral speed and the temperature of the GR2 so that the elongation of the mixed fiber is 28 to 38%.
A different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn composed of a high shrinkage yarn having a different fineness of 41 dtex and a filament count of 24 filaments and a low shrinkage yarn formed of PET having a fineness of 41 dtex and a filament count of 24 filaments is wound into a package. I took it.

The thus-obtained mixed-shrink mixed yarn is used for warp and weft, and woven in a double layer, relaxed in boiling water for 5 minutes, and dried in a relaxed state at 190 ° C. for 5 minutes. The fabric was subjected to a 20% by weight weight reduction treatment with a 3% by weight sodium hydroxide solution at 100 ° C., followed by ordinary polyester dyeing. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the physical properties and texture of the obtained hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn.

[0032]

[Table 2]

In Examples 6 to 9 and Comparative Examples 5 and 6, ΔWS
In Examples 6 to 9, when heat treatment was performed after forming the fabric, the fabric bulged due to the difference in length between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn, and the fabric was excellent in soft feeling.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 5, the difference in yarn length was small because ΔWS was small, the feeling was flat, the swelling was lacking, and the soft feeling was lacking. In Comparative Example 6, the difference in yarn length was too large because ΔWS was too large, and the fluffiness of the fabric texture was too much emphasized, far from the silky texture. In addition, the surface of the fabric was roughened, and the quality was significantly reduced.

[0035]

According to the present invention, it is possible to produce a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn by a rational production process called a direct spinning and drawing method. Polyester hetero-shrinkage blended yarn that becomes a fabric excellent in feeling, drape, firmness, and firmness can be stably provided.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process chart showing one embodiment of a direct spinning and stretching apparatus used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Spinneret 2 Undrawn yarn for low shrinkage yarn 3 End drawn yarn for high shrinkage yarn 4 Cooling device 5, 6 Oil supply device 7 l Godet roller 8 Second godet roller 7 ', 8' Separate roller 9 Winding machine 10 Package 11, 12 Interlace nozzle

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. In a different shrinkage mixed fiber obtained by direct spinning and drawing using two kinds of polyesters, a low shrinkage yarn contains 1 to 5% by mass of a ceramic compound, and a high shrinkage yarn is A different shrinkage mixed fiber comprising a copolymerized polyester of 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane and isophthalic acid, and satisfying the following formulas. ΔWS (%): 5 ≦ ΔWS ≦ 25 PS (cN / dtex): 0.2 ≦ PS ≦ 0.35 where ΔWS: High shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn Difference in boiling water shrinkage ratio PS: heat shrinkage stress of highly shrinkable yarn 2. The polyester fiber of claim 1, wherein the cross section of the fiber is 3 to 8 leaves.