JP3486081B2 - Polyester composite fiber - Google Patents

Polyester composite fiber

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Publication number
JP3486081B2
JP3486081B2 JP29940597A JP29940597A JP3486081B2 JP 3486081 B2 JP3486081 B2 JP 3486081B2 JP 29940597 A JP29940597 A JP 29940597A JP 29940597 A JP29940597 A JP 29940597A JP 3486081 B2 JP3486081 B2 JP 3486081B2
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JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
shrinkage
fiber
component
ratio
crimp
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
JP29940597A
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Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH10183441A (en
Inventor
義和 近藤
西田  武司
松美 田中
Original Assignee
カネボウ株式会社
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Filing date
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Priority to JP8-295692 priority Critical
Priority to JP29569296 priority
Application filed by カネボウ株式会社 filed Critical カネボウ株式会社
Priority to JP29940597A priority patent/JP3486081B2/en
Publication of JPH10183441A publication Critical patent/JPH10183441A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP3486081B2 publication Critical patent/JP3486081B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は高級感のある衣料素
材の製造に適した複合繊維に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a composite fiber suitable for producing a high-quality clothing material.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】天然繊維、例えばウール、シルク、綿な
どは、合成繊維に比較して個々の単繊維の繊維長、繊
度、形状、クリンプ等の構造上或いは物性上のバラツキ
を有し、それが布帛となったときのフクラミや光沢感、
或いは表面タッチの差となって天然繊維独特の特徴を発
現する。このような構造、物性のバラツキが、合成繊維
製品との大きな相違点であり存在感となっている。
2. Description of the Related Art Natural fibers such as wool, silk and cotton have variations in fiber length, fineness, shape, crimp and other structural or physical properties of individual monofilaments as compared with synthetic fibers. Fluffy and glossy feeling when the fabric becomes
Alternatively, the difference in surface touch results in the appearance of the characteristics peculiar to natural fibers. Such variations in structure and physical properties are a major difference from the synthetic fiber product, and have a presence.

【0003】合成繊維においても、合繊独特のタッチや
外観を改善し天然繊維の特徴を発現させるために、各種
の提案がなされてきた。例えば、収縮率の異なる2本以
上の糸を混繊する異収縮混繊糸技術や仮撚加工糸を使う
等、各種の手法が試みられている。最近では、更に高
度、複合化して異繊(伸)度の複数の繊維の混繊糸を仮
撚り加工した複合加工糸や、共重合ポリマー改質による
高度の収縮繊維を利用した異収縮混繊糸、大きなループ
を形成する自己伸長糸混繊等、他の技術との複合により
得られる布帛の感性を益々天然繊維に近づける努力がな
される一方、天然繊維にはない新しい感性を目的とした
布帛の開発が試みられている。しかし、かかる加工法の
場合は、得られる織編物にフクラミを持たせる事による
布帛の改良が中心であり、本発明のごとく、引き締まっ
たフクラミ感とソフトな表面タッチに優れ、且つ微妙な
表面の光沢を有する極めて高級感のあるシルクフィラメ
ント織物調の素材は得られていない。
With respect to synthetic fibers, various proposals have been made in order to improve the unique touch and appearance of synthetic fibers and develop the characteristics of natural fibers. For example, various techniques have been tried, such as a different shrinkage mixed yarn technology for mixing two or more yarns having different shrinkage ratios or a false twist textured yarn. Recently, a composite processed yarn made by false twisting a mixed yarn of multiple fibers with a higher degree of compositeness and different fiber (elongation), and a different shrinkage mixed fiber that uses a highly shrinkable fiber modified by a copolymer Efforts are being made to bring the sensitivities of the fabrics obtained by compounding with other technologies such as yarns and self-expanding yarns that form large loops closer to those of natural fibers, while fabrics aimed at new sensitivities not found in natural fibers. Is being developed. However, in the case of such a processing method, the improvement of the cloth is mainly made by giving the obtained woven or knitted fabric a fluffy texture, and as in the present invention, it is excellent in a tight fluffy sensation and a soft surface touch, and has a delicate surface. A material having a luster and an extremely high-quality silk filament woven fabric has not been obtained.

【0004】シルクフィラメント織物の優れた風合い、
特に過度のフクラミがなく適度なフクラミを感じさせる
「ひきしまったフクラミ感」は、シルクの持つ独特の構
造とその特徴を極めて有効に生かした加工方法により発
現されるものである。即ち、シルクはその一本の糸の中
に三角形をした二本のフィブロイン繊維をセリシンのマ
トリックスにより包み込んだ複合繊維構造を有してお
り、布帛になった後、セリシンをアルカリで溶解除去す
る事により、二本のフィブロイン繊維が生まれる。その
際に、セリシンが除去されただけの空隙と発現した二本
のフィブロイン繊維は蚕より産出される際に微妙なひね
りを受けており、そのひねりが発現する為に、各々の部
分で微妙なクリンプ、或いはウェーブを発生する。
The excellent texture of silk filament fabric,
In particular, the "tightened feeling of fluffiness" that gives an appropriate amount of fluffiness without excessive fluffiness is manifested by a processing method that makes the most of the unique structure and characteristics of silk. That is, silk has a composite fiber structure in which two fibroin fibers each having a triangular shape are wrapped in a matrix of sericin in one thread, and after being made into a cloth, sericin should be dissolved and removed with an alkali. Produces two fibroin fibers. At that time, the two fibroin fibers that were expressed as voids with only sericin removed were subjected to a subtle twist when produced from the silkworm.Since the twist is expressed, each part has a subtle twist. Generates crimp or wave.

【0005】こうして、シルク織物は空隙の為に、軽く
且つ各々の繊維の有する微妙なクリンプ、或いはウェー
ブの為に優れたフクラミを持つ。又、繊維表面も一本一
本の繊維の形状が異なる為に、微妙な光沢やタッチを持
つ。
Thus, the silk fabric is light and has a delicate crimp of each fiber due to the voids, or has an excellent fluffiness due to the wave. Also, the fiber surface has a different luster and touch because the shape of each fiber is different.

【0006】これまで合成繊維、特にポリエステルフィ
ラメントでは、異収縮混繊糸技術をはじめあらゆる努力
が成され、かなりシルク素材に近づいたが、今なお明ら
かに差があるのは、上述したシルクの物性、構造を実現
出来ない事が第一の理由である。最近の提案として、例
えば特開平3−220331号公報及び特開平2−22
1414号公報や特開平2−221415号公報で異捲
縮複合繊維が提案されているが、前2者は異収縮混繊糸
布帛のこなれの不十分さの改善を目的とするものであ
り、後者は単にサイドバイサイド型複合繊維の捲縮発現
性の改善を目的としたものであり、本発明の目的である
シルクの特徴を高度に再現したシルクライクの布帛を得
ようとする発想も示されておらず、まして本発明と同様
のものは到底得られるものではない。
So far, synthetic fibers, especially polyester filaments, have made considerable efforts, including heterogeneous mixed fiber technology, and have come very close to silk materials. However, there are still apparent differences in the physical properties of silk described above. The first reason is that the structure cannot be realized. As recent proposals, for example, JP-A-3-220331 and JP-A-2-22.
Different crimped composite fibers have been proposed in Japanese Patent No. 1414 and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2-221415, but the former two are intended to improve the insufficient shrinkage of the different shrinkage mixed fiber fabric. The latter is merely for the purpose of improving the crimp developability of the side-by-side type composite fiber, and the idea of obtaining a silk-like fabric highly reproducing the characteristics of silk, which is the object of the present invention, is also shown. Of course, the same thing as the present invention cannot be obtained at all.

【0007】又、特公昭63−30421号公報には、
捲縮率の異なるポリエステル系フィラメントが混繊され
た捲縮糸を製造する際、ポリマー成分間の固有粘度差の
あるサイド・バイ・サイド型複合繊維を形成させ、互い
の複合比が異なる実質的に同一繊度のフィラメントを加
熱流体押込ノズルにより混繊、捲縮加工する異捲縮混繊
糸が開示されている。しかしながら、この方法では、別
々に得られた糸を混繊することによる製造工程の複雑さ
或いは煩雑さが生じるばかりか、この方法で得られたフ
ィラメントの捲縮は、波形の変化や巾が小さく、織編物
とした場合、本発明が目標としている十分なフクラミ感
を与えることができない。
Further, Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-30421 discloses that
When producing crimped yarn in which polyester-based filaments with different crimping ratios are mixed, side-by-side type composite fibers having different intrinsic viscosities between polymer components are formed, and the composite ratio of each is substantially different. Discloses a differently crimped mixed yarn in which filaments having the same fineness are mixed and crimped by a heating fluid pushing nozzle. However, in this method, not only the manufacturing process becomes complicated or complicated by mixing the yarns obtained separately, but also the crimp of the filament obtained by this method has a small change in waveform and a small width. In the case of a woven or knitted fabric, it is not possible to give a sufficient feeling of fluffiness, which is the target of the present invention.

【0008】[0008]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、従来の合成
繊維布帛では到底発現させる事ができなかった真にシル
クフィラメント調織物の特徴を発現する事の出来る、即
ち、優れたフクラミ感と微妙な表面感、表面タッチを発
現するランダムな潜在収縮性と潜在捲縮性を有するポリ
エステル複合繊維を工業的に安価に且つ安定して供給す
る事を目的とする。
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is capable of exerting the characteristics of a true silk filament-like woven fabric, which cannot be exhibited by conventional synthetic fiber fabrics, that is, excellent fluffiness and subtleness. It is an object of the present invention to industrially inexpensively and stably supply a polyester conjugate fiber having a random latent shrinkability and a latent crimping property that exhibits a smooth surface feel and surface touch.

【0009】[0009]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは鋭意検討を
行なった結果、本発明を完成した。まず、(1)良好な
捲縮を発現させるために、収縮性の大きいポリエステル
(A成分)と収縮性の小さいポリエステル(B成分)を
多層積層型に接合させ、A成分とB成分の収縮特性の違
いを利用して捲縮性能を発現させる。しかも、各フィラ
メントにおけるA成分とB成分の複合比率と断面におけ
る複合形態が不規則に異なるフィラメントの集合体とす
ることにより、捲縮をランダム化して従来にないフクラ
ミ感と充実感を付与することができた。
Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive investigations by the present inventors, the present invention has been completed. First, (1) in order to develop a good crimp, a polyester having a large shrinkage (component A) and a polyester having a small shrinkage (component B) are joined in a multilayer laminate type, and the shrinkage characteristics of the components A and B The crimping performance is expressed by utilizing the difference of. Moreover, by providing an aggregate of filaments in which the composite ratio of the A component and the B component in each filament and the composite morphology in the cross section are irregularly different, the crimps are randomized to give a feeling of fluffiness and fullness that has never been seen before. I was able to.

【0010】次に、(2)多層積層型のフィラメントの
熱収縮特性を検討し、良好な捲縮特性を発現させるため
の熱収縮特性を明確化した。
Next, (2) the heat shrinkage characteristics of the multi-layer laminated type filament were examined to clarify the heat shrinkage characteristics for exhibiting good crimp characteristics.

【0011】更に、(3)高収縮成分を低収縮成分と同
率か、或いは多く設定することにより、潜在捲縮発現力
の改善が可能となり、従って織編物の加工段階での収縮
や捲縮の発現を大きく出来、結果的に布帛のフクラミ
感、伸縮性、毛羽感、自然な表面感の発現を改良させる
事が出来た。
Further, (3) by setting the high-shrinkage component to the same ratio as the low-shrinkage component or to a large amount, it is possible to improve the latent crimp development power, and thus to reduce the shrinkage and crimp in the processing stage of the woven or knitted fabric. The expression was increased, and as a result, it was possible to improve the expression of dullness, stretchability, fluff, and natural surface feeling of the fabric.

【0012】即ち、本発明は、収縮率の異なる2種類の
ポリエステル成分からなり繊維軸方向に連続した多層積
層構造を有するマルチフィラメントで、沸水処理による
繊維の全沸収率が20〜40%で、直線収縮率が高々2
0%であり、且つ繊維の全沸収率に対する捲縮収縮率の
割合が50%以上であるポリエステル複合繊維である。
That is, the present invention is a multifilament having a multi-layer laminated structure consisting of two kinds of polyester components having different shrinkage rates and continuous in the fiber axis direction, and the total boiling yield of the fibers by the boiling water treatment is 20 to 40%. , Linear shrinkage is at most 2
It is 0%, and the ratio of the crimp shrinkage ratio to the total boiling yield of the fiber is 50% or more, which is a polyester composite fiber.

【0013】又、本発明の第二は、第一の発明におい
て、高収縮ポリエステル成分と低収縮ポリエステル成分
とが1/1〜2.5/1(重量比)とよりなる事を特徴
とするポリエステル複合繊維である。
A second aspect of the present invention is characterized in that, in the first aspect, the high shrinkage polyester component and the low shrinkage polyester component are 1/1 to 2.5 / 1 (weight ratio). It is a polyester composite fiber.

【0014】又、本発明の第三は、第一、二の発明にお
いて、繊維の沸水処理後の捲縮数の変動率が200%以
上である事を特徴とするポリエステル複合繊維である。
A third aspect of the present invention is a polyester composite fiber according to the first and second aspects of the invention, wherein the rate of change in the number of crimps of the fiber after boiling water treatment is 200% or more.

【0015】又、本発明の第四は、第一〜三の発明にお
いて、乾熱処理後の捲縮収縮率が40%以上である事を
特徴とするポリエステル複合繊維である。
A fourth aspect of the present invention is a polyester composite fiber according to any one of the first to third aspects, which has a crimp shrinkage rate of 40% or more after dry heat treatment.

【0016】[0016]

【発明の実施の形態】本発明で言う複合潜在捲縮糸と
は、単一フィラメントの横断面において熱収縮挙動の異
なるA成分とB成分とよりなる多層積層構造を有するフ
ィラメントを言う。多層積層構造を有するフィラメント
の任意の横断面における接合形態は、該フィラメントの
繊維軸方向に沿って一様に連続していることが好ましい
が、その一部に非連続構造を含んでいてもよい。一様に
連続した構造を有する糸は、紡糸、延伸操業性の安定化
という点から好ましい。ここで、接合形態とは、A成分
とB成分の貼り合わせの形態を言う。又、多層構造と
は、A成分とB成分との接合形態を取る少なくとも2層
以上、好ましくは2〜10層、更に好ましくは3〜7層
の層状構造を言う。その一例を図1に示す。
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The composite latently crimped yarn as referred to in the present invention means a filament having a multi-layered laminated structure composed of a component A and a component B having different heat shrinkage behaviors in a cross section of a single filament. The bonding form of the filament having a multilayer laminated structure in any cross-section is preferably uniform and continuous along the fiber axis direction of the filament, but a part thereof may include a discontinuous structure. . A yarn having a uniformly continuous structure is preferable from the viewpoint of stabilizing spinning and drawing operability. Here, the joining form refers to a form in which the A component and the B component are attached. The multi-layer structure means a layered structure of at least two layers, preferably 2 to 10 layers, more preferably 3 to 7 layers, in which the A component and the B component are bonded. One example is shown in FIG.

【0017】潜在捲縮糸の断面形状は、A成分とB成分
の接合形態を形成でき、かつ維持することができ、本発
明の目的とする捲縮性能を発現できるものであれば、丸
断面、三角断面、Y断面、U断面、偏平断面等のいずれ
を用いてもよく、用途、目的に応じて使い分ける事がで
きる。特に三角断面、Y断面、U断面、偏平断面等の異
形断面のものが繊維の捲縮構造のランダム性や布帛の風
合いの点で好ましい。
The latent crimped yarn has a circular cross-sectional shape as long as it can form and maintain the joined form of the A component and the B component and can exhibit the crimping performance aimed at by the present invention. Any of a triangular cross section, a Y cross section, a U cross section, a flat cross section, and the like may be used, and can be used properly according to the application and purpose. In particular, a triangular cross section, a Y cross section, a U cross section, a flat cross section, or other irregular cross section is preferable in terms of the randomness of the crimp structure of the fiber and the texture of the cloth.

【0018】この中でも、異形度(周囲長/直径)は
3.2以上のものが好ましく、更に好ましくは3.5〜
6.0、より好ましくは3.7〜4.5である。このよ
うな異形度の断面繊維とすることにより、異形断面と多
層積層構造の効果が相乗的に作用し、各フィラメント間
の収縮性・捲縮性のランダムさをより一層増加させ、且
つ繊維・繊維間のフクラミを増加させ、摩擦力を低減さ
せる。その事により、布帛のソフトさ、フクラミ感、ハ
リ、コシの改善が出来、且つ本発明独自の緻密さを感じ
る充実感と表面のソフトなタッチを表現するのに好まし
いものである。
Among them, the degree of irregularity (perimeter / diameter) is preferably 3.2 or more, more preferably 3.5 to.
It is 6.0, and more preferably 3.7 to 4.5. By adopting a cross-section fiber having such a degree of irregularity, the effect of the irregular cross-section and the multilayer laminated structure act synergistically to further increase the shrinkability / crimpness randomness between the filaments, and Increases flami between fibers and reduces friction. This makes it possible to improve the softness, fluffiness, firmness, and elasticity of the fabric, and to express the fullness and soft touch of the surface, which is unique to the present invention.

【0019】全沸収率(SH)と直線収縮率(S
)は、以下に示す方法にて求める。又、捲縮による
収縮率(以下捲縮収縮率(SH)と記す)は全沸収率
と直線収縮率との差で表す。
Total boiling yield (SH 1 ) and linear shrinkage (S
H 2 ) is determined by the method described below. Further, shrinkage by crimping (hereinafter crimp shrinkage referred to as (SH 3)) represents the difference between Zen'nie yield and linear shrinkage.

【0020】延伸後の繊維(マルチフィラメント)を一
定長(例えば30cm)計り取り、その繊維上にて一定
間隔(例えば20cm:L)の所に印を付ける。次い
で、繊維同士が絡み合わないように十分注意し、98℃
の熱水中に15分間浸漬し処理する。処理後、繊維が伸
びないように注意しながら熱水より取り出し、テッシュ
ペーパー等にて繊維表面の水を切り、室内に放置後十分
風乾する。風乾後、この繊維の端に0.5mg/dの荷
重を掛けて垂直に垂らし、印の間隔の処理後の長さ(L
)を測定する。更に加重を0.5g/dに増やして長
さ(L)を測定する。
The stretched fiber (multifilament) is measured for a certain length (for example, 30 cm), and a mark is made on the fiber at a certain distance (for example, 20 cm: L 0 ). Then, be careful not to entangle the fibers with each other, and keep the temperature at 98 ° C.
It is immersed in hot water for 15 minutes for treatment. After the treatment, take out from the hot water, taking care not to stretch the fiber, drain the water on the surface of the fiber with tissue paper, leave it in the room, and air dry it sufficiently. After air-drying, a load of 0.5 mg / d was applied to the end of this fiber to hang it vertically, and the length of the mark after treatment (L
1 ) is measured. Further, the weight is increased to 0.5 g / d, and the length (L 2 ) is measured.

【0021】(全沸収率) SH=(L−L)/L×100(%)(Total boiling yield) SH 1 = (L 0 −L 1 ) / L 0 × 100 (%)

【0022】(直線収縮率) SH=(L−L)/L×100(%)(Linear shrinkage rate) SH 2 = (L 0 -L 2 ) / L 0 × 100 (%)

【0023】(捲縮収縮率) SH=SH−SH(%)(Crimp shrinkage rate) SH 3 = SH 1 -SH 2 (%)

【0024】本発明では、全沸収率が20〜40%であ
る必要がある。全沸収率が20%未満では、本発明で目
的とするランダムな捲縮やひきしまったフクラミの発現
に乏しく、且つ表面タッチが極めてソフトな布帛を得る
事は出来ない。又、40%を超えると表面への毛羽感は
あるがソフトさの点で幾分不十分になり、好ましくはな
い。
In the present invention, the total boiling yield must be 20 to 40%. If the total boiling yield is less than 20%, it is not possible to obtain a cloth having a very low surface crimping and the appearance of random crimps and tight fukami, which is the object of the present invention. On the other hand, if it exceeds 40%, there is a feeling of fuzz on the surface, but the softness is somewhat insufficient, which is not preferable.

【0025】従来の異収縮混繊糸は、高収縮繊維と低収
縮繊維とを混合して使用し、高収縮繊維を十分に収縮さ
せる事により、布帛にフクラミ感を持たせようとするも
のであるが、本発明は繊維の直線収縮率は高々20%で
ある。従来の異収縮混繊糸技術では、この程度の収縮率
では十分なフクラミ感を持たせる事は不可能で、むしろ
布帛が堅くなる等の欠点が生じる事があったが、本発明
は、単なる直線収縮によらずランダムな収縮差と、繊維
の捲縮により横方向の糸のフクラミにより布帛全体のフ
クラミ感を発現されるものである為に、直線収縮率は高
々20%、好ましくは10〜20%である。
The conventional different-shrinkage mixed yarn is used by mixing the high-shrinking fiber and the low-shrinking fiber and sufficiently shrinking the high-shrinking fiber to give the cloth a feeling of fluffiness. However, in the present invention, the linear shrinkage ratio of the fiber is at most 20%. In the conventional different-shrinkage mixed-fiber technology, it is impossible to give a sufficient feeling of fluffiness with such a shrinkage ratio, and rather, there may be defects such as the fabric becoming stiff, but the present invention is merely The linear shrinkage ratio is at most 20%, preferably 10% at the maximum, because the random shrinkage difference does not depend on the linear shrinkage, and the crimping of the fibers causes the fluffiness of the entire fabric to appear due to the fluffiness of the yarn in the transverse direction. 20%.

【0026】本発明での繊維の捲縮性は繊維の構造と収
縮率に関係するが、収縮率の低いところでは、捲縮率も
小さく収縮率の増加と共にクリンプ数も増加する傾向に
ある。しかし、収縮率が15%以上ではクリンプ数もほ
ぼ飽和に達する。それ以上の収縮率を持たせても従来の
異収縮混繊の効果はあるが、収縮率を抑えて、捲縮によ
る繊維の横方向のフクラミを持たせる効果は余り改善し
ない。
The crimpability of the fiber in the present invention is related to the structure of the fiber and the shrinkage ratio, but at a low shrinkage ratio, the crimp ratio is small and the crimp number tends to increase as the shrinkage ratio increases. However, when the contraction rate is 15% or more, the crimp number almost reaches saturation. Even if the shrinkage ratio is higher than that, the effect of the conventional hetero-shrinking mixed fibers is obtained, but the effect of suppressing the shrinkage ratio and providing the lateral fuzziness of the fiber due to the crimping is not so much improved.

【0027】本発明の特徴は繊維を構成する各フィラメ
ントにおいて、2種のポリマーの接合状態、接合比率が
一本一本異なり、従ってフィラメント一本毎に繊維の状
態や物性、例えば各フィラメントの直線収縮率、捲縮状
態、及び一本の繊維でも繊維軸方向に繊維の捲縮状態
(クリンプ、ウェーブ)が異なる事である。即ち、目標
とするシルクの精練後の状態に極めて似たものとなる。
こうした極めてランダムな捲縮構造や収縮率を有する繊
維、布帛はこれまで得られていない事は無論であるが、
提案さえもなされていない。
The feature of the present invention is that, in each filament constituting the fiber, the bonding state and the bonding ratio of the two kinds of polymers are different one by one. Therefore, the fiber state and the physical properties of each filament, for example, the straight line of each filament. The shrinkage rate, the crimped state, and the crimped state (crimp, wave) of the fiber are different in the fiber axis direction even with one fiber. In other words, it is very similar to the target state after the scouring of silk.
It goes without saying that fibers and cloths having such an extremely random crimped structure and shrinkage ratio have not been obtained so far.
No suggestions have been made.

【0028】本発明の繊維の各フィラメントでの収縮率
の変動は、繊維を構成する2種類のポリマーの接合比率
と紡糸・延伸条件によって決定される。即ち、低収縮成
分の比率が大きいフィラメントでは収縮率が低く、逆に
高収縮成分の比率が大きいフィラメントでは収縮率が高
くなる。こうしたどちらか一方のポリマー構成比率が大
きいフィラメントでは、フィラメントに発生する捲縮が
少なくなる。従って、低収縮のフィラメントでは収縮率
も低く、且つ捲縮数も少ない為に布帛にした場合、布帛
の表面に穏やかなクリンプを持ったループとして発現す
る。又、前述したように、マルチフィラメント全体とし
ては、高収縮成分の比率を多く設定している為に、表面
にでるループが比較的少なくなり表面タッチが極めてソ
フトとなる。このループはそのままでも表面タッチの改
善に大いに有用であるが、布帛表面のサンディング加工
によりループを切断してやれば更に好ましいソフトな風
合いに仕上げることができる。
The fluctuation of the shrinkage ratio of each filament of the fiber of the present invention is determined by the joining ratio of the two kinds of polymers constituting the fiber and the spinning / drawing conditions. That is, a filament having a large low shrinkage component ratio has a low shrinkage ratio, and conversely, a filament having a large high shrinkage component ratio has a high shrinkage ratio. A filament having a high polymer constitutional ratio of either one of them has less crimps generated in the filament. Therefore, a low shrinkage filament has a low shrinkage ratio and a small number of crimps, so that when it is made into a cloth, it appears as a loop having a gentle crimp on the surface of the cloth. Further, as described above, since the ratio of the high shrinkage component is set to be large in the whole multifilament, the number of loops on the surface is relatively small and the surface touch becomes extremely soft. This loop is very useful as it is for improving the surface touch, but if the loop is cut by sanding the surface of the fabric, a more preferable soft texture can be obtained.

【0029】本発明の目的とする布帛を得る為には、単
なる繊維の繊維軸方向の収縮のみでなく、捲縮による繊
維の横方向のフクラミも必要であり、その為には全収縮
率に占める捲縮収縮率の割合が少なくとも20%、好ま
しくは30〜90%、更に好ましくは40〜80%ある
事が好ましい。20%未満では、繊維の横方向(布帛の
厚み方向)のフクラミが不十分となり、ハリ、腰、フク
ラミにおいて十分ではない。ここでいう全収縮率、直線
収縮率は先に定義した通りであるが、前者は捲縮による
収縮を含めた繊維の収縮の程度を示し、後者は繊維の捲
縮による縮みを除去した純粋の繊維の収縮率を示すもの
である。捲縮収縮においては、捲縮力も大事なファクタ
ーとなるが、本発明の特徴を顕著に発現させる為には、
捲縮力は大きい程良いが、通常1mg/d、好ましくは
5mg/d、更に好ましくは10mg/dである。
In order to obtain the fabric of the present invention, not only the shrinkage of the fibers in the fiber axis direction but also the lateral fluffiness of the fibers due to crimping is necessary. It is preferable that the ratio of the crimp contraction rate is at least 20%, preferably 30 to 90%, and more preferably 40 to 80%. If it is less than 20%, the fluffiness in the lateral direction of the fiber (thickness direction of the fabric) is insufficient, and the firmness, waist and fluffiness are not sufficient. The total shrinkage rate and the linear shrinkage rate here are as defined above, but the former shows the degree of shrinkage of the fiber including the shrinkage due to the crimping, and the latter shows the pure shrinkage by removing the shrinkage due to the crimping of the fiber. It shows the shrinkage rate of the fiber. In crimp contraction, crimp force is also an important factor, but in order to remarkably express the characteristics of the present invention,
The higher the crimping power, the better, but it is usually 1 mg / d, preferably 5 mg / d, more preferably 10 mg / d.

【0030】本発明の繊維は、高収縮成分と低収縮成分
よりなる複合繊維であり、沸水処理等加熱処理により、
繊維の一本一本に捲縮が発現する。目的とする風合いを
得る為には、捲縮数が通常5〜100ケ/インチ、好ま
しくは10〜70ケ/インチ、更に好ましくは15〜5
0ケ/インチである。
The fiber of the present invention is a composite fiber composed of a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component, and by heat treatment such as boiling water treatment,
Crimp develops in each fiber. In order to obtain the desired texture, the number of crimps is usually 5 to 100 pcs / inch, preferably 10 to 70 pcs / inch, and more preferably 15 to 5 pcs.
It is 0 / inch.

【0031】沸水処理後の各フィラメント間の捲縮数の
バラツキとして、変動率が200%以上である事が好ま
しい。この事により、布帛になってからも捲縮の少ない
フィラメントと捲縮の多いフィラメントとの隙間に空隙
が出来る様に、繊維・繊維間に微小な自然の空隙が多数
形成され、シルクに極めて近いフクラミ感や、表面感を
生み出す。
As the variation in the number of crimps between the filaments after the boiling water treatment, it is preferable that the variation rate is 200% or more. Due to this, many small natural voids are formed between the fibers so that there are voids between the filaments with a small number of crimps and the filaments with a large number of crimps even after becoming a cloth, and it is extremely close to silk. Creates a feeling of dullness and a feeling of surface.

【0032】なお、変動率は一本一本のフィラメントの
捲縮率の値の最小値をC、最大値をCとして次式に
よって求める。
The variation rate is obtained by the following equation, where the minimum value of the crimp rate of each filament is C m and the maximum value thereof is C M.

【0033】 (変動率)=C/C×100(%)(Variation) = C M / C m × 100 (%)

【0034】本発明で使用する高収縮ポリエステル成分
(以下A成分と略称する)は、熱収縮特性の大きなポリ
エステルであり、通常変性ポリエステルを使用する。例
えばテレフタル酸又は2,6−ナフタレンジカルボン酸
を主成分とするジカルボン酸成分と、エチレングリコー
ルを主成分とするグリコール成分からなる芳香族ポリエ
ステルを公知の方法で製造する際に、第三成分として一
般式
The high shrinkage polyester component (hereinafter abbreviated as A component) used in the present invention is a polyester having a large heat shrinkage property, and a modified polyester is usually used. For example, when an aromatic polyester comprising a dicarboxylic acid component containing terephthalic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid as a main component and a glycol component containing ethylene glycol as a main component is produced by a known method, it is generally used as a third component. formula

【0035】[0035]

【化1】 (式中、Rは水素原子或いはメチル、エチル、n−プロ
ピル、iso−プロピル、n−ブチル、t−ブチル基等
のアルキル基を記す) で表されるイソフタル酸或いはその脂肪族エステル類、
及び/又は、ビスフェノールAを共重合せしめて得られ
る。
[Chemical 1] (In the formula, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, and t-butyl groups.) Isophthalic acid or an aliphatic ester thereof,
And / or obtained by copolymerizing bisphenol A
It

【0036】A成分に共重合せしめる第三成分の添加配
合量は通常3〜20モル%が好ましく、更に好ましくは
5〜15モル%である。第三成分の添加配合量がこの範
囲にあると、十分な収縮性能が得られ、十分な嵩高性、
フクラミ感が発現できるので好ましい。特に、化1の構
造を有する化合物にこれと同量かやや多くのビスフェノ
ールAを共重合する変性ポリエステルを使う事により、
ポリマーのTg(ガラス転移点)も上がり、繊維自体の
耐熱性や染色堅牢度、耐光堅牢度も改善でき、より好ま
しい。ポリマーのTgが上がる事により、繊維の製造段
階において、繊維の直線収縮率を前述のように従来の異
収縮混繊糸よりも低く抑え、熱的な安定性を上げている
為に、加工段階での十分な熱セットを行う事が出来、し
かも布帛の最終加工段階では160〜200℃、好まし
くは170〜190℃の乾熱処理により良好な捲縮を発
現させる事が出来る。
The addition amount of the third component to be copolymerized with the component A is usually preferably 3 to 20 mol%, more preferably 5 to 15 mol%. When the addition amount of the third component is within this range, sufficient shrinkage performance is obtained, sufficient bulkiness,
It is preferable because it can produce a feeling of dullness. In particular, a compound having the structure of Chemical formula 1 has the same or slightly larger amount of bispheno
By using a modified polyester that copolymerizes
The Tg (glass transition point) of the polymer is increased, and the heat resistance, dyeing fastness and light fastness of the fiber itself can be improved, which is more preferable. By increasing the Tg of the polymer, the linear shrinkage of the fiber is kept lower than that of the conventional heterogeneous-shrink mixed yarn in the fiber manufacturing stage as described above, and the thermal stability is improved. Sufficient heat setting can be performed, and good crimps can be developed by dry heat treatment at 160 to 200 ° C., preferably 170 to 190 ° C. at the final processing stage of the fabric.

【0037】本発明で使用する低収縮ポリエステル成分
(以下B成分と略称する)は、A成分で使用するポリエ
ステル成分より、沸収率が低いものであり、従って変性
率も小さい。例えば、テレフタル酸又は2,6−ナフタ
レンジカルボン酸を主成分とするジカルボン酸成分と、
エチレングリコールを主成分とするグリコール成分から
なる芳香族ポリエステルを公知の方法で製造する際、第
三成分を添加することなくそのまま重合するか、或いは
A成分に共重合させる化合物を、A成分における添加配
合量よりも通常3モル%以上少なく、好ましくは5〜1
0モル%少なくした共重合ポリエステルとする。
The low shrinkage polyester component (hereinafter abbreviated as B component) used in the present invention has a lower boiling yield than the polyester component used as the A component, and therefore has a small modification rate. For example, a dicarboxylic acid component containing terephthalic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid as a main component,
When an aromatic polyester comprising a glycol component containing ethylene glycol as a main component is produced by a known method, the compound is polymerized as it is without adding the third component, or a compound to be copolymerized with the A component is added to the A component. It is usually 3 mol% or more less than the blending amount, preferably 5 to 1
The copolymerized polyester is reduced by 0 mol%.

【0038】A成分、B成分共に第三成分を共重合させ
たポリエステルを使用する場合、A成分とB成分の添加
配合量の差が3モル%より小さいと、A成分、B成分の
収縮特性の違いによる十分な収縮差、捲縮率の差が得ら
れず、目的とする性能、風合いが十分に発現できない。
When a polyester obtained by copolymerizing the third component with both the A component and the B component is used, if the difference in the addition amount of the A component and the B component is less than 3 mol%, the shrinkage characteristics of the A component and the B component are reduced. A sufficient difference in shrinkage and a difference in crimping ratio due to the difference in the above can not be obtained, and the desired performance and texture cannot be sufficiently exhibited.

【0039】かかるA成分、B成分のポリエステルの製
造時或いは紡糸時に、顔料、艶消し剤、蛍光増白剤、紫
外線吸収剤、酸化防止剤、制電剤及び有機アミン、有機
カルボン酸アミドなどのエーテル結合抑制剤等、必要に
応じ種々使用してもよい。
Pigments, matting agents, fluorescent whitening agents, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, antistatic agents, organic amines, organic carboxylic acid amides, etc. are produced during the production or spinning of the polyesters of the A and B components. You may use various things, such as an ether bond inhibitor, as needed.

【0040】マルチフィラメント集合体におけるA成分
/B成分の接合比率(重量比)は、好ましくは2.5/
1〜1/1更に好ましくは2/1〜1.2/1である。
A成分/B成分の接合比がこの範囲にあるとひきしまっ
たフクラミ感とソフトな表面タッチに優れた布帛が得ら
れる。
The joining ratio (weight ratio) of the A component / B component in the multifilament assembly is preferably 2.5 /
1-1 / 1, more preferably 2/1 to 1.2 / 1.
When the bonding ratio of the A component / B component is within this range, a fabric having an excellent feeling of fluffiness and a soft surface touch can be obtained.

【0041】A成分とB成分を上記比率とすると好まし
い理由は次の通りである。繊維を構成する各フィラメン
ト間にA成分、B成分の比率とそれらの積層の構造が異
なり、特にB成分(低収縮成分)の比率が大きく且つ層
の数が少ないものでは、捲縮数も収縮率も小さいものと
なり、これらのフィラメントが布帛の中において布帛の
表面に浮き上がり微少な毛羽を生じることとなる。逆に
A成分(高収縮成分)が多いフィラメントでは捲縮数と
同時に収縮率も大きくなり、それらのフィラメントは布
帛の内部に沈み布帛のハリ、コシ、フクラミの発現に寄
与すると布帛内部に微小に分散した空隙を発現させる。
The reason why it is preferable to set the ratio of the component A and the component B is as follows. The ratio of the A component and B component and the structure of their lamination are different between the filaments constituting the fiber, and especially when the ratio of the B component (low shrinkage component) is large and the number of layers is small, the number of crimps also shrinks. The rate is also small, and these filaments float on the surface of the cloth in the cloth and generate minute fluff. On the other hand, in the case of filaments containing a large amount of component A (high shrinkage component), the shrinkage rate increases with the number of crimps, and these filaments sink inside the fabric and contribute to the development of firmness, stiffness, and fluffiness of the fabric, and the filament inside becomes minute. Develop dispersed voids.

【0042】この時、高収縮成分(A)の比率が大とし
ている為に、布帛の内部に沈む繊維が多くなり、織物表
面に浮き上がる繊維が少なくなる為にひきしまったフク
ラミ感とソフトな表面タッチが得られるのである。
At this time, since the ratio of the high shrinkage component (A) is large, the number of fibers sinking inside the fabric is large, and the fibers floating on the surface of the fabric are small. You get a touch.

【0043】ここで、接合比率とは、繊維中の全フィラ
メントにおけるA成分、B成分の繊維の横断面に占める
面積の平均値であり、紡糸時にA成分、B成分をそれぞ
れ別々のギアポンプで計量する事により容易に制御でき
る。
The term "bonding ratio" as used herein means the average value of the area occupied by the A component and B component in the cross section of the fiber in all filaments in the fiber, and the A component and B component are measured by separate gear pumps during spinning. It can be controlled easily.

【0044】各フィラメントにA成分とB成分の積層構
造を作成せしめる方法は、我々が従来提案している方法
が好ましく利用できる。例えば特公昭47−9533号
公報に示す混練型分配板や特開昭59−100717号
公報に示す静的混練素子を挙げることが出来る。静的混
練素子としては、例えばケニックス社の「スタティック
ミキサー」、ROSS社ISGミキサー、スルーザー社
のミキシングエレメント等を用いることができる。
As a method for forming a laminated structure of A component and B component on each filament, the method conventionally proposed by us can be preferably used. For example, a kneading type distribution plate disclosed in JP-B-47-9533 and a static kneading element disclosed in JP-A-59-100717 can be exemplified. As the static kneading element, for example, a "static mixer" manufactured by Kenix, an ISG mixer manufactured by ROSS, a mixing element manufactured by Sruzer, or the like can be used.

【0045】こうした静的混練素子を通過したポリマー
流は素子の数をkとするとの2のk乗に分流される。こ
こでは通常、静的混練素子を通常1〜4個使用する。こ
のエレメントによりA,B両成分は2〜16層に積層さ
れる。A,B両成分が複数個積層されたポリマー融液は
多数の紡糸吐出孔より空気中に押し出されフィラメント
を形成する。従って、各フィラメントは、A、B両成分
からなり、通常1〜16層、好ましくは2〜10層、更
に好ましくは3〜7層である。層の数が多くなると、各
フィラメント間の収縮特性や捲縮特性の間に変動が小さ
くなり、目的とする風合い、性能が出にくい。
The polymer flow passing through such a static kneading element is divided into 2 k powers where k is the number of elements. Usually, 1 to 4 static kneading elements are used here. Both A and B components are laminated in 2 to 16 layers by this element. A polymer melt in which a plurality of both components A and B are laminated is extruded into the air through a large number of spinning discharge holes to form filaments. Therefore, each filament is composed of both A and B components, and is usually 1 to 16 layers, preferably 2 to 10 layers, and more preferably 3 to 7 layers. When the number of layers is large, fluctuations between shrinkage characteristics and crimp characteristics between filaments are small, and it is difficult to obtain desired texture and performance.

【0046】紡糸は、上述の2種類のポリマーを口金内
部に組み込んだ静的混練素子により多層に混合したもの
を口金の微細孔より吐出し巻き取る。巻き取り方式は、
1500m/分程度までの速度のコンベ方式でも良い
し、3000m/分前後のPOY方式にて巻き取っても
良く、又5000m/分以上の高速紡糸(HOY)方式
にて巻き取っても良い。巻き取った繊維は、引き続き延
伸を行う。又、紡糸段階にて、同時に延伸する事(SP
D)も勿論可能である。
In the spinning, a mixture obtained by mixing the above-mentioned two kinds of polymers into a multilayer by a static kneading element incorporated in the die is discharged from the fine holes of the die and wound. The winding method is
It is possible to use a combing method at a speed of up to about 1500 m / min, a POY method of about 3000 m / min, or a high-speed spinning (HOY) method of 5000 m / min or more. The wound fiber is subsequently drawn. Also, in the spinning stage, draw at the same time (SP
Of course, D) is also possible.

【0047】こうした静的混練素子を用いることによっ
て、各フィラメント毎のA成分/B成分の比率や積層構
造は第1図に示すように大きく異なるが、各フィラメン
トの繊維軸方向でのこうしたポリマーの比率や積層構造
は殆ど変化せず、従来のポリマーブレンド紡糸において
根本的な問題であった操業性の悪化を大きく改善でき
た。
By using such a static kneading element, the ratio of the A component / B component and the laminated structure of each filament are greatly different as shown in FIG. 1, but such a polymer in the fiber axis direction of each filament is used. The ratio and the laminated structure were hardly changed, and the deterioration of operability, which was a fundamental problem in the conventional polymer blend spinning, could be greatly improved.

【0048】延伸は、通常一般的に行われる加熱ローラ
ーと加熱板との組み合わせが好適に用いることが出来る
が、複数の加熱ローラーによる延伸でもよい。加熱ロー
ラーと加熱板との組み合わせの場合は、加熱ローラーに
て延伸を熱板にて熱セットを行い、目的に合致した糸質
や捲縮特性を持たせる。例えば、延伸温度は通常60〜
140℃、好ましくは65〜120℃、更に好ましくは
70〜100℃である。又、加熱板の温度は通常延伸温
度より10〜50℃高めに設定するが、ここでは繊維の
全収縮率、直線収縮率を目標の値に納める為に、通常1
20〜180℃、好ましくは120〜160℃である。
延伸後に更に、例えば延伸温度〜セット温度の範囲で加
熱しながら、高々1.1倍程度の倍率にて延伸し、捲縮
の出方を改善することも可能である。このような条件に
て、処理する事により繊維の直線収縮率を抑えて捲縮収
縮率を改善する事が出来る。
For the stretching, a combination of a heating roller and a heating plate which is generally used generally can be preferably used, but stretching by a plurality of heating rollers may be used. In the case of a combination of a heating roller and a heating plate, drawing is performed with the heating roller and heat setting is performed with the heating plate, so that the yarn quality and crimping characteristics that match the purpose are provided. For example, the stretching temperature is usually 60-
The temperature is 140 ° C, preferably 65 to 120 ° C, more preferably 70 to 100 ° C. The temperature of the heating plate is usually set higher than the drawing temperature by 10 to 50 ° C., but in order to keep the total shrinkage rate and linear shrinkage rate of the fiber at the target values, it is usually 1
20-180 degreeC, Preferably it is 120-160 degreeC.
After the drawing, it is possible to improve the appearance of the crimp by further drawing at a draw ratio of at most about 1.1 times while heating in the range of the drawing temperature to the set temperature. By treating under such conditions, the linear shrinkage of the fiber can be suppressed and the crimp shrinkage can be improved.

【0049】本発明の繊維を使う事により、異収縮混繊
糸や異収縮複合加工糸使いとする事なく、単独糸使い
で、且つ特別な織組織とする事なく通常に使用される織
り編み物と同様の組織においても目的とするソフトでフ
クラミがあり、しかも表面の微妙な毛羽によるタッチが
発現出来る。即ち、従来の感性合繊、新合繊で行われた
様な、複雑な糸使いや織り組織、加工手段・条件をとる
必要もなく、低コストにして新感覚の布帛が得られると
言う大きなメリットがある。勿論、異収縮混繊糸や複合
加工糸の一成分として使う事や、より複雑な織り組織に
する事によって更に高度な風合い、タッチを発現でき
る。
By using the fiber of the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric which is normally used without using a different shrinkage mixed yarn or a different shrinkage composite processed yarn, using a single yarn, and without forming a special woven structure. Even in the same tissues as above, the desired softness and fluffiness are exhibited, and the touch due to the delicate fluff on the surface can be expressed. In other words, there is no need to take complicated thread usage, weaving structure, processing means and conditions, which were used in the conventional sensibility synthetic fiber and new synthetic fiber, and a great advantage is that a new sense of fabric can be obtained at low cost. is there. Of course, by using it as a component of the different shrinkage mixed yarn or the composite textured yarn, or by making a more complicated weave structure, it is possible to express a higher degree of texture and touch.

【0050】織物、編み物の加工は通常の繊維の加工と
同様の加工にて行う事が出来る。例えば、精練、アルカ
リ減量、リラックス、染色、熱セット等の一連の工程で
あり、更に必要ならば樹脂加工等を施す。また本発明の
繊維はそれ単独で用いてもよいし、必要に応じて他の繊
維と混合して使用することが出来る。
The processing of woven or knitted fabric can be carried out in the same manner as the processing of ordinary fibers. For example, it is a series of steps such as scouring, alkali reduction, relaxation, dyeing, heat setting and the like, and if necessary, resin processing is performed. Further, the fiber of the present invention may be used alone, or may be used as a mixture with other fiber if necessary.

【0051】[0051]

【実施例】以下実施例により本発明を具体的に説明す
る。実施例中「部」とあるのはことわりのない限り「重
量部」を意味し、「%」とあるのはことわりのない限り
「重量%」を意味する。固有粘度〔η〕は、フェノール
/テトラクロロエタン=6/4(重量比)の混合溶剤中
20℃で常法により求めた。又、走査電子顕微鏡(以下
SEMと記す。)測定は、明石製作所社製走査電子顕微
鏡にて測定した。又、捲縮の個数は、SEM観察或いは
オリンパス社製実体顕微鏡により撮影した顕微鏡写真よ
り1インチ当たりの個数に換算した。
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples. In the examples, "parts" means "parts by weight" unless otherwise specified, and "%" means "% by weight" unless otherwise specified. The intrinsic viscosity [η] was determined by a conventional method at 20 ° C. in a mixed solvent of phenol / tetrachloroethane = 6/4 (weight ratio). Further, the scanning electron microscope (hereinafter referred to as SEM) measurement was performed with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Akashi Seisakusho. The number of crimps was converted to the number per 1 inch from SEM observation or a micrograph taken by a stereomicroscope manufactured by Olympus.

【0052】複合糸の製造(1) 低収縮成分(B成分)としては、〔η〕=0.64の通
常のポリエチレンテレフタレート(以下、通常ポリエス
テルと称する)を使用した。又、高収縮成分(A成分)
としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに酸成分として
5モル%のイソフタル酸とビスフェノールA(2EO付
加物)を5.5モル%共重合させた変性ポリエステルを
使用した。
Production of Composite Yarn (1) As the low shrinkage component (component B), a usual polyethylene terephthalate having a [η] = 0.64 (hereinafter usually referred to as polyester) was used. Also, high shrinkage component (A component)
A modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 5 mol% of isophthalic acid as an acid component and 5.5 mol% of bisphenol A (2EO adduct) was used.

【0053】両成分をA成分とB成分の接合比率が1.
5/1になるように、エクストルーダーにて温度290
℃で溶融後、各々別のギアポンプで計量して紡糸口金に
送液する。紡糸口金内部では、静止系混練素子(ケニッ
クスミキシングエレメント3個)を通過させて、A、B
両成分を多層構造を有するように混合させ、次いで36
個の等長のY型の紡糸細孔より溶融紡糸し1500m/
分の速度にて巻き取り、未延伸糸を得た。得られた未延
伸糸の断面は角の丸いほぼ三角形をしていた。その糸を
延伸倍率3.0倍、延伸速度750m/分で75℃のロ
ーラーヒーターで延伸し、表1に示す熱板(PLH)に
て熱セット後、75デニール(以下dと記す)/36フ
ィラメント(以下fと記す)のマルチフィラメントを得
た。これらの糸を各々F−1〜F−5とした(表1)。
Both components have a joining ratio of A component and B component of 1.
The temperature is 290 in the extruder so that it becomes 5/1.
After melting at ℃, weigh with separate gear pumps and send to the spinneret. Inside the spinneret, A, B is passed through a static kneading element (3 Kenics mixing elements).
Both components are mixed to have a multi-layered structure and then 36
1,500 m / s for melt spinning from Y-shaped spinning pores of equal length
It was wound at a speed of minutes to obtain an undrawn yarn. The cross section of the obtained undrawn yarn had a substantially triangular shape with rounded corners. The yarn was drawn with a roller heater at 75 ° C. at a draw ratio of 3.0 times and a drawing speed of 750 m / min, and was heat set on a hot plate (PLH) shown in Table 1, and then 75 denier (hereinafter referred to as d) / 36. A multifilament of filaments (hereinafter referred to as f) was obtained. These yarns were designated as F-1 to F-5 (Table 1).

【0054】繊維断面を顕微鏡にて観察すると第1図に
示すように少なくとも2層、多い物で4層程度の多層構
造を有する複合繊維であった。又、特徴的なことは各繊
維の複合形状(複合比率、複合形状、多層化の状態等)
が各々異なる事である。得られた延伸糸の収縮・捲縮特
性を表1に示す。
When the cross section of the fiber was observed with a microscope, it was a composite fiber having a multi-layer structure of at least two layers, and at most four layers as shown in FIG. Also, the characteristic is the composite shape of each fiber (composite ratio, composite shape, multilayered state, etc.)
Are different things. Table 1 shows the shrinkage and crimp characteristics of the obtained drawn yarn.

【0055】表1に得られた各種延伸糸の沸水処理後の
全収縮率、直線収縮率、捲縮収縮率、及び全収縮率に対
する捲縮収縮率の割合(捲収率)を示す。更に、沸水処
理後の繊維試料の表面水分を十分に拭き取り、風乾した
後、温風乾燥機中で180℃、3分間熱処理したときの
全収縮率と捲縮収縮率を併せて示した。なお、乾熱処理
後の全収縮率、捲縮収縮率の測定と算出は沸水処理後と
同様にして行った。
Table 1 shows the total shrinkage percentage, linear shrinkage percentage, crimp shrinkage percentage, and ratio of the crimp shrinkage percentage to the total shrinkage percentage (winding yield) of the various drawn yarns after boiling water treatment. Further, the surface moisture of the fiber sample after the boiling water treatment was sufficiently wiped off, air-dried, and then heat-treated at 180 ° C. for 3 minutes in a warm air dryer, the total shrinkage ratio and the crimp shrinkage ratio are shown together. The total shrinkage and crimp shrinkage after dry heat treatment were measured and calculated in the same manner as after boiling water treatment.

【0056】複合糸の製造(2) 〔η〕=0.64の通常ポリエステルを使用し、紡糸温
度290℃、紡糸速度1500m/分にて36個の等長
のY型の紡糸細孔より溶融紡糸した。その糸を延伸倍率
3.0倍、延伸速度750m/分で85℃のローラーヒ
ーターで延伸し、150℃のプレートヒーターでセット
し、75d/36fのマルチフィラメント F−6を得
た。得られた延伸糸を熱水処理した後、捲縮収縮値或い
は直線収縮値を求めた。沸水収縮後の糸は特に捲縮も生
じていない通常の繊維であった。全沸収率、直線収縮率
はともに7.6%、捲縮収縮率はなかった。
Production of Composite Yarn (2) Melting from 36 Y-shaped spinning pores of equal length at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1500 m / min using a normal polyester of [η] = 0.64. Spun The yarn was drawn at a draw ratio of 3.0 times at a draw speed of 750 m / min with a roller heater at 85 ° C. and set with a plate heater at 150 ° C. to obtain 75 d / 36 f multifilament F-6. After the obtained drawn yarn was treated with hot water, the crimp shrinkage value or the linear shrinkage value was obtained. The yarn after shrinking with boiling water was a normal fiber with no crimp. The total boiling yield and the linear shrinkage were both 7.6%, and there was no crimp shrinkage.

【0057】複合糸の製造(3) 〔η〕=0.64の通常ポリエステルを使用し、紡糸温
度290℃、紡糸速度1200m/分にて18個の等長
のY型の紡糸細孔より溶融紡糸した。得られた未延伸糸
の断面は角の丸いほぼ三角形をしていた。その糸を延伸
倍率3.2倍、延伸速度730m/分で84℃のローラ
ーヒーターで延伸し、145℃のプレートヒーターでセ
ットし、37.5d/18fのマルチフィラメントを得
た。又、〔η〕=0.64のアルコール成分としてビス
フェノールA(2EO付加物)を5モル%共重合させた
変性ポリエステルを使用し、紡糸温度285℃、紡糸速
度1200m/分にて18個の等長のY型の紡糸細孔よ
り溶融紡糸した。得られた未延伸糸の断面は角の丸いほ
ぼ三角形をしていた。その糸を延伸倍率3.2倍、延伸
速度730m/分で84℃のローラーヒーターで延伸
し、90℃のプレートヒーターでセットし、37.5d
/18fのマルチフィラメントを得た。
Production of composite yarn (3) Melting from 18 equal-length Y-shaped spinning pores at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min using a normal polyester of [η] = 0.64. Spun The cross section of the obtained undrawn yarn had a substantially triangular shape with rounded corners. The yarn was drawn with a roller heater at 84 ° C. at a draw ratio of 3.2 times and a drawing speed of 730 m / min and set with a plate heater at 145 ° C. to obtain a 37.5 d / 18 f multifilament. Further, a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 5 mol% of bisphenol A (2EO adduct) as an alcohol component of [η] = 0.64 was used, and 18 pieces or the like at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min. Melt spinning was performed from a long Y-shaped spinning pore. The cross section of the obtained undrawn yarn had a substantially triangular shape with rounded corners. The yarn was drawn at a draw ratio of 3.2 times at a draw speed of 730 m / min with a roller heater at 84 ° C. and set with a plate heater at 90 ° C., and then at 37.5 d.
A / 18f multifilament was obtained.

【0058】この2種の繊維を更に、巻き返し機によっ
て2本合糸し75d/36f異収縮混繊糸F−7とし
た。
Two of these two kinds of fibers were further combined by a rewinding machine to form a 75d / 36f different shrinkage mixed fiber F-7.

【0059】混繊糸に使用した繊維の熱収縮特性を評価
する為に、合糸前の各々の延伸糸を熱水処理した後、捲
縮収縮率或いは直線収縮率を求めた。いずれも沸水収縮
後の糸は特に捲縮も生じていない通常の繊維であった。
低収縮側の糸の全沸収率、直線収縮率はともに8.4
%、捲縮収縮率はなく、高収縮側の全沸収率は36.5
%であった。
In order to evaluate the heat shrinkage characteristics of the fibers used in the mixed fiber, each of the drawn yarns before compounding was subjected to hot water treatment, and then the crimp shrinkage ratio or the linear shrinkage ratio was obtained. In each case, the yarn after shrinking with boiling water was a normal fiber with no crimp.
The total boiling yield and linear shrinkage of the yarn on the low shrinkage side are both 8.4.
%, There is no crimp shrinkage, and the total boiling yield on the high shrinkage side is 36.5.
%Met.

【0060】実施例1〜3、比較例1〜4 本発明によって得られた繊維(延伸糸F−1〜F−7を
経緯糸として平織(タフタ)を織り、60℃にて精練
後、15%のアルカリ減量の後、液流染色機を用いて1
30℃にてリラックスの後、180℃の乾熱にてセット
した。仕上がりの布帛を熟練者の手触りで風合い評価を
行った。評価は、ひきしまったフクラミ感、表面ソフト
タッチついて行い、特に優れているものを◎、優れてい
るものを○、やや劣っているものを△、劣っているもの
を×と記した。又、総合評価についても同様な評価を行
った。結果を表2に記す。
Examples 1 to 3, Comparative Examples 1 to 4 Fibers obtained according to the present invention (a plain weave (taffeta) using the drawn yarns F-1 to F-7 as warp and weft, woven and scoured at 60 ° C. for 15 After using the jet dyeing machine to reduce the alkali weight by 1%,
After relaxing at 30 ° C, it was set by dry heat at 180 ° C. The texture of the finished fabric was evaluated by the touch of an expert. The evaluation was carried out for a tight fluffy feeling and soft touch on the surface. Particularly excellent ones were marked with ⊚, excellent ones with ◯, slightly inferior ones with Δ, and inferior ones with x. Further, the same evaluation was performed for the comprehensive evaluation. The results are shown in Table 2.

【0061】[0061]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0062】[0062]

【表2】 [Table 2]

【0063】複合糸の製造(4) A成分とB成分の比率を1/1及び1/1.5とした他
は、実施例1と同様にして延伸糸F−8とF−9を得
た。延伸糸F−8,F−9の収縮特性を表3に示す。
Production of Composite Yarn (4) Stretched yarns F-8 and F-9 were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ratios of the A component and the B component were 1/1 and 1 / 1.5. It was Table 3 shows the shrinkage characteristics of the drawn yarns F-8 and F-9.

【0064】[0064]

【表3】 [Table 3]

【0065】実施例4、比較例5 次に延伸糸F−8とF−9を実施例2と同様にして平織
物とし、同様に評価した結果を表4に示す。本発明の延
伸糸を使用した織物はシルクフィラメント織物調の優れ
た品位を示した。
Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 Next, the drawn yarns F-8 and F-9 were made into a plain weave in the same manner as in Example 2 and the same evaluation results are shown in Table 4. The woven fabric using the drawn yarn of the present invention showed excellent quality of silk filament woven fabric.

【0066】[0066]

【表4】 [Table 4]

【0067】[0067]

【発明の効果】本発明のランダム潜在捲縮糸は、良好な
潜在収縮性と潜在捲縮性を有し、しかもそれらのいずれ
もが繊維中の各フイラメント間でランダムなバラツキを
有しており、布帛にした場合、ひきしまったフクラミ
感、及び微妙な表面毛羽による爽やかなタッチを実現し
た極めてシルクフィラメント織物に近い感性を有する布
帛が得られる。
Industrial Applicability The random latent crimped yarn of the present invention has good latent shrinkability and latent crimpability, and all of them have random variations among filaments in the fiber. In the case of using a cloth, a cloth having a feeling of tight fluffiness and a feeling very close to that of a silk filament woven fabric that realizes a refreshing touch due to delicate surface fluff can be obtained.

【0068】特に、従来の高低収縮繊維を混合した異収
縮混繊糸とは思想を異にし、繊維の収縮率は抑えて繊維
の捲縮性を利用するものである。つまり、繊維を構成す
る各フィラメント間において微妙に異なる収縮率や大き
く異なる捲縮率の為に、糸の中に含まれる空気層が大量
に且つ均一に分布している為に、新合繊の加工の様な微
妙な温度調整や張力調整も必要なく、しかも収縮斑、染
色斑、しぼ斑、等品質的な欠点が出にくく、縫製等の加
工性を大きく改善する事が出来る等、多くの工業的なメ
リットを有する。
In particular, the concept is different from that of the conventional different-shrinkage mixed fiber in which high-low shrinkage fibers are mixed, and the shrinkage ratio of the fiber is suppressed to utilize the crimpability of the fiber. In other words, due to the slightly different shrinkage ratio and the greatly different crimp ratio between the filaments that make up the fiber, the air layer contained in the yarn is distributed in a large amount and evenly. There is no need for delicate temperature adjustment or tension adjustment as in the above, moreover, quality defects such as shrinkage spots, dyeing spots, and grain spots are less likely to occur, and the workability such as sewing can be greatly improved. Have a certain merit.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図1】本発明の繊維の断面形態の一例を示す。FIG. 1 shows an example of a cross-sectional morphology of a fiber of the present invention.

【図2】沸水処理後の捲縮の発現状態のSEM写真(倍
率=20倍)の一例であって、繊維の形状を示すもので
ある。
FIG. 2 is an example of a SEM photograph (magnification = 20 times) of a crimp development state after boiling water treatment, showing a fiber shape.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

a.高収縮成分 b.低収縮成分 a. High shrinkage component b. Low shrinkage component

フロントページの続き (56)参考文献 特開 平8−269856(JP,A) 特開 平4−18132(JP,A) 特開 昭59−100717(JP,A) 特開 昭62−45721(JP,A) 特開 平8−246277(JP,A) 特開 平7−3554(JP,A) (58)調査した分野(Int.Cl.7,DB名) D02G 1/00 - 3/48 D02J 1/00 - 13/00 D01F 8/14 Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-8-269856 (JP, A) JP-A-4-18132 (JP, A) JP-A-59-100717 (JP, A) JP-A-62-45721 (JP , A) JP 8-246277 (JP, A) JP 7-3554 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int.Cl. 7 , DB name) D02G 1/00-3/48 D02J 1/00-13/00 D01F 8/14

Claims (4)

(57)【特許請求の範囲】(57) [Claims] 【請求項1】 収縮率の異なる2種類のポリエステル成
分からなり、繊維軸方向に連続した多層積層構造を有す
るマルチフィラメントで、沸水処理による繊維の全沸収
率が20〜40%で、直線収縮率が高々20%であり、
且つ繊維の全沸収率に対する捲縮収縮率の割合が50〜
90%であるポリエステル複合繊維。
1. A multifilament comprising two kinds of polyester components having different shrinkage ratios and having a multilayer laminated structure continuous in the fiber axis direction, wherein the total boiling yield of fibers by boiling water treatment is 20 to 40%, and linear shrinkage occurs. The rate is at most 20%,
Moreover, the ratio of the crimp contraction rate to the total boiling yield of the fiber is 50 to
90% polyester conjugate fiber.
【請求項2】 収縮率のより高い成分(A)と収縮率の
より低い成分(B)の比率がA/B=1/1〜2.5/
1(重量比)である請求項1に記載のポリエステル複合
繊維。
2. The ratio of the component (A) having a higher shrinkage ratio to the component (B) having a lower shrinkage ratio is A / B = 1/1 to 2.5 /
The polyester composite fiber according to claim 1, which is 1 (weight ratio).
【請求項3】 繊維の沸水処理後の捲縮数の変動率が2
00%以上である請求項1〜2のいずれか一に記載のポ
リエステル複合繊維。
3. The fluctuation rate of the number of crimps after the boiling water treatment of the fiber is 2
The polyester composite fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 2, which is at least 00%.
【請求項4】 乾熱処理後の捲縮収縮率が40%以上で
ある請求項1〜3のいずれか一に記載の繊維。
4. The fiber according to claim 1, which has a crimp shrinkage of 40% or more after dry heat treatment.
JP29940597A 1996-10-16 1997-10-15 Polyester composite fiber Expired - Lifetime JP3486081B2 (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP8-295692 1996-10-16
JP29569296 1996-10-16
JP29940597A JP3486081B2 (en) 1996-10-16 1997-10-15 Polyester composite fiber

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP29940597A JP3486081B2 (en) 1996-10-16 1997-10-15 Polyester composite fiber

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH10183441A JPH10183441A (en) 1998-07-14
JP3486081B2 true JP3486081B2 (en) 2004-01-13

Family

ID=26560379

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP29940597A Expired - Lifetime JP3486081B2 (en) 1996-10-16 1997-10-15 Polyester composite fiber

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JP3486081B2 (en)

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH10183441A (en) 1998-07-14

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