JPH1037022A - Random latent crimpable yarn - Google Patents

Random latent crimpable yarn

Info

Publication number
JPH1037022A
JPH1037022A JP9815397A JP9815397A JPH1037022A JP H1037022 A JPH1037022 A JP H1037022A JP 9815397 A JP9815397 A JP 9815397A JP 9815397 A JP9815397 A JP 9815397A JP H1037022 A JPH1037022 A JP H1037022A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
shrinkage
component
fiber
ratio
multifilament
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP9815397A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Takeshi Nishida
西田  武司
Yoshikazu Kondo
義和 近藤
Takao Osagawa
孝夫 長川
Matsumi Tanaka
松美 田中
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kanebo Ltd
Original Assignee
Kanebo Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kanebo Ltd filed Critical Kanebo Ltd
Priority to JP9815397A priority Critical patent/JPH1037022A/en
Publication of JPH1037022A publication Critical patent/JPH1037022A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a random latent crimpable yarn suitable as a raw material for clothing giving a sense of fulfillment sensing both good swollen and compacted states, excellent in tension and stiffness touches and extremely soft in surface touch. SOLUTION: This random latent crimpable yarn comprises a polyester composite yarn comprising multifilaments. The multifilaments comprises two kinds of polyester components different in shrinkage degrees from each other and have a multilayered structure continued in the filament axial direction. The polyester composite yarn has random latent shrinkability and random latent crimpability, and has the following characteristics. The whole shrinkage degree of the multifilaments is at least 40% on a boiling water treatment, and the rate of the crimping shrinkage degree to the whole boiling water shrinkage degree of the multifilaments is 50-90%. The difference between the maximum linear shrinkage degree and the minimum linear shrinkage degree among the filaments composing the multifilaments is at least 15% or larger.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明はふくらみと同時に緻
密さを感じる充実感を持ち、ハリ、コシ感に優れなが
ら、表面タッチが極めてソフトな高級衣料素材の製造に
適したランダム捲縮高収縮繊維に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a randomly crimped high-shrinkable fiber suitable for producing high-grade garment materials which have a fullness of swelling and a sense of denseness, are excellent in firmness and firmness, and have an extremely soft surface touch. About.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】天然繊維、例えばウ−ル、シルク、綿な
どは、合成繊維に比較して個々の単繊維の繊度、形状、
クリンプ等の構造上或いは物性上のバラツキによる特徴
を有している。このような構造、物性のバラツキがある
ため、合成繊維製品に比べふくらみが大きく、風合いが
良好である。
2. Description of the Related Art Natural fibers, such as wool, silk, and cotton, have a fineness, shape,
It is characterized by variations in structure or physical properties such as crimps. Due to such variations in structure and physical properties, the swelling is large and the texture is good compared to synthetic fiber products.

【0003】合成繊維でも天然繊維の特徴を発現させる
ために、収縮率の異なる2本以上の糸を混繊したり、或
いは仮撚加工糸を使ってバルキー性を発現させる為の工
夫が種々試みられている。最近では更に高度、複合化し
て異繊(伸)度の複数の繊維の混繊糸の仮撚り加工した
複合加工糸や共重合ポリマー改質による高度の収縮繊維
を利用した異収縮混線糸、大きなループを形成する自己
伸長糸混繊等、他の技術との複合により得られる布帛の
感性を益々天然繊維に近づける努力がなされる一方天然
繊維にはない新しい感性を目的とした布帛の開発が試み
られている。しかし、かかる加工法の場合は、得られる
織編物にふくらみを持たせる事による布帛の改良が中心
であり、本発明のごとく、フクラミと同時に緻密さを感
じる充実感を持ち、且つ表面タッチが極めてソフトな新
しい感性の素材は得られていない。
[0003] Various attempts have been made to blend two or more yarns having different shrinkage ratios or to achieve bulkiness using false twisted yarns in order to express the characteristics of natural fibers even in synthetic fibers. Have been. In recent years, composite yarns that have been made more complex and have been false-twisted with mixed fibers of multiple fibers with different fiber (elongation) degrees and different shrinkage mixed yarns that use highly shrinkable fibers obtained by modifying a copolymer have been developed. Efforts are being made to make the fabric obtained by combining with other technologies, such as self-extending yarn blending that forms loops, more and more sensitive to natural fibers. Have been. However, in the case of such a processing method, the improvement of the fabric by giving a swelling to the obtained woven or knitted fabric is mainly performed, and as in the present invention, the fabric has a sense of fulfillment that senses denseness at the same time as swelling, and the surface touch is extremely low. No new soft materials have been obtained.

【0004】異収縮混繊糸技術によれば高収縮糸の高度
化により布帛の緻密性感を改善する事には成功している
が膨らみは大きくなるものの、本発明で目的とする布帛
の持つ充実感は出にくい。次に高収縮繊維のみを用いた
場合には布帛中の繊維/繊維間の空隙が少なくなり、フ
クラミ感は少なくタッチは粗硬なものとなり、又表面状
態もプレーンで変化がなくしかもガサついたものでしか
なくなる。
According to the technique of mixed shrinkage yarns, it has been successful to improve the sense of denseness of the fabric by the advancement of the high shrinkage yarn, but the swelling becomes large, but the fabric which is the object of the present invention is fulfilled. The feeling is hard to come out. Next, when only the high shrinkage fiber was used, the voids between the fibers in the fabric were reduced, the feeling of swelling was small, the touch became rough and hard, and the surface condition was plain and unchanged and rough. It's just something.

【0005】又、仮撚り加工を中心とした加工糸技術
は、本来はポリエステル等フィラメント織物にウールラ
イクな嵩高性を持たせようとするものであり、本発明の
目的とする緻密さを感じる充実感を得ようとするもので
はない。
[0005] In addition, the processing yarn technology centering on false twisting is intended to give wool-like bulkiness to a filament fabric such as polyester, and the object of the present invention is to enhance the fineness. It doesn't try to get a feeling.

【0006】更に最近の提案としては、より複雑なもの
となっているが、例えば特公昭63−30421号公報
には、捲縮率の異なるポリエステル系フィラメントが混
繊された捲縮糸を製造する際、ポリマ−成分間の固有粘
度差のあるサイド・バイ・サイド型複合繊維を形成さ
せ、互いの複合比が異なる実質的に同一繊度のフィラメ
ントを加熱流体押込ノズルにより混繊、捲縮加工する異
捲縮混繊糸が開示されている。しかしながら、この方法
では、別々に得られた糸を混繊することによる製造工程
の複雑さ或いは煩雑さが生じるばかりか、この方法で得
られたフィラメントも捲縮波形の変化が少なく、織編物
とした場合の充分なふくらみ感を与えることができな
い。
A more recent proposal has become more complicated. For example, JP-B-63-30421 discloses a method of producing a crimped yarn in which polyester filaments having different crimp rates are mixed. At this time, a side-by-side type composite fiber having an intrinsic viscosity difference between polymer components is formed, and filaments having substantially the same fineness having different composite ratios are mixed and crimped by a heating fluid pushing nozzle. Different crimped blended yarns are disclosed. However, in this method, not only does the manufacturing process become complicated or complicated due to the mixing of separately obtained yarns, but also the filament obtained by this method has a small change in the crimp waveform, and the woven and knitted fabric can be used. In this case, a sufficient swelling feeling cannot be given.

【0007】又、特願平3−220331号公報、特願
平4−136209号公報及び特願平4−34008号
公報では、多重異収縮混繊糸が、特願平2−22141
4号公報では2種のポリマーの構成比を各々異にするフ
ィラメントより構成される混繊糸が提案されている。し
かしながら、前者では各フィラメント間での収縮率差も
十分でなく単なる異収縮混繊糸使いのこなれの不十分さ
を改善するに止まり、又後者では単に捲縮によるフクラ
ミ感を改善するものであり、本願発明の目的とする、充
実感に溢れた表面タッチのソフトな布帛とは程遠いもの
である。
In Japanese Patent Application Nos. Hei 3-220331, Hei 4-136209 and Hei 4-340008, a multi-shrinkage mixed fiber is disclosed in Japanese Patent Application No. 22221/1990.
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 4 (Kokai) No. 4, a mixed fiber composed of filaments having different composition ratios of two kinds of polymers is proposed. However, in the former, the difference in shrinkage between filaments is not sufficient, and only the improvement of the inadequate use of different shrinkage mixed yarns is improved, and in the latter, the swelling feeling due to crimping is simply improved. This is far from the soft fabric with a rich surface touch, which is the object of the present invention.

【0008】[0008]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、従来の合成
繊維布帛、天然繊維布帛にはなかった新しい感性を有す
る布帛、即ちハリ、腰感に優れた、且つ緻密さを感じる
充実感にあふれ、且つ表面タッチが極めてソフトな布帛
を提供するに適した高度にランダムな捲縮を有し且つ高
度にランダムな収縮性に富んだ素材を提案するにあり、
且つ該素材を工業的に容易に且つ安価に提供する事を目
的とする。
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is directed to a fabric having a new sensibility, which has not been obtained in conventional synthetic fiber fabrics and natural fiber fabrics, that is, a fabric full of firmness and waist feeling and fullness of denseness. In order to provide a material having a highly random crimp suitable for providing a fabric having a very soft surface touch and a highly random shrinkable material,
And it aims at providing the said material easily industrially and cheaply.

【0009】[0009]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは鋭意検討を
行なった結果、本発明を完成した。まず、(1)良好な
捲縮を発現させるために、収縮性の大きいポリエステル
(A成分)と収縮性の小さいポリエステル(B成分)を
多層積層型に接合させ、A成分とB成分の収縮特性の違
いを利用して捲縮性能を発現させた。しかも、各フィラ
メントにおけるA成分とB成分の複合比率が不規則に異
なるフィラメントの集合体とすることにより、捲縮をラ
ンダム化して従来にないふくらみ感と充実感を付与する
ことができた。
Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have completed the present invention. First, (1) in order to develop a good crimp, a polyester (A component) having a large shrinkage and a polyester (B component) having a small shrinkage are joined to a multilayer laminate type, and the shrinkage characteristics of the A component and the B component are obtained. The crimping performance was developed by utilizing the difference between the two. In addition, by forming an aggregate of filaments in which the composite ratio of the component A and the component B in each filament is irregularly different, the crimp can be randomized, and a swelling feeling and a feeling of fulfillment, which have never existed before, can be provided.

【0010】次に、(2)多層積層型のフィラメントの
熱収縮特性を検討し、良好な捲縮特性を発現させるため
の熱収縮特性を明確化した。
Next, (2) the heat shrinkage characteristics of the multilayer laminated filaments were examined, and the heat shrinkage characteristics for exhibiting good crimping characteristics were clarified.

【0011】更に、(3)高収縮成分を低収縮成分と同
率か、或いはむしろ多く設定することにより、残留熱応
力の値を大きくし、織物の収縮率を大きくして組織を緻
密化し、ハリ、コシ感の発現を行わせ、緻密さのある充
実感とハリ、コシを得ることが出来る。一方、高収縮成
分の複合比率を大きくすることは、マルチフィラメント
を構成する各フィラメントでの低収縮成分を著しく多く
含むフィラメントの数を低減することとなる。その結
果、布帛表面に浮き出てくるループが少なくなり、タッ
チが極めてソフトとなる。
Further, (3) by setting the high shrinkage component to the same ratio as the low shrinkage component, or rather, to a large value, the value of the residual thermal stress is increased, the shrinkage ratio of the woven fabric is increased, and the structure is densified. , A firm feeling, firmness and firmness can be obtained. On the other hand, increasing the compounding ratio of the high shrinkage component reduces the number of filaments containing a remarkably large low shrinkage component in each filament constituting the multifilament. As a result, the number of loops that emerge on the surface of the fabric is reduced, and the touch becomes extremely soft.

【0012】即ち、本発明は、収縮率の異なる2種類の
ポリエステル成分からなる繊維軸方向に連続した多層積
層構造を有し、沸水処理によるマルチフィラメントの全
沸収率が少なくとも40%、繊維の全沸収率に対する捲
縮収縮率の割合が50%〜90%、かつマルチフィラメ
ントを構成する各フィラメント間での直線収縮率の最大
値と最小値の差が少なくとも15%以上であるランダム
な潜在収縮性と潜在捲縮性を有するポリエステル複合繊
維である。
That is, the present invention has a multilayer laminate structure composed of two kinds of polyester components having different shrinkage rates and continuous in the fiber axis direction, the total boiling yield of multifilaments by boiling water treatment is at least 40%, and the fiber A random latent form in which the ratio of the crimp shrinkage to the total boiling yield is 50% to 90%, and the difference between the maximum value and the minimum value of the linear shrinkage ratio among the filaments constituting the multifilament is at least 15% or more. It is a polyester composite fiber having shrinkage and latent crimpability.

【0013】又、本発明の第二は、高収縮ポリエステル
成分と低収縮ポリエステル成分の比率がマルチフィラメ
ント全体で1/1〜2.5/1(重量比)とよりなる事
を特徴とする第一のポリエステル複合繊維である。
A second aspect of the present invention is characterized in that the ratio of the high shrinkage polyester component to the low shrinkage polyester component is 1/1 to 2.5 / 1 (weight ratio) in the whole multifilament. This is one polyester composite fiber.

【0014】又、本発明の第三は、マルチフィラメント
を構成する単一フィラメントのすべての沸水処理後の捲
縮数が少なくとも20ヶ/インチである事を特徴とする
第一又は第二のポリエステル複合繊維である。
A third aspect of the present invention is a first or second polyester, wherein the number of crimps of all the single filaments constituting the multifilament after the boiling water treatment is at least 20 / inch. It is a composite fiber.

【0015】[0015]

【発明の実施の形態】本発明で言う潜在捲縮糸とは、単
一フィラメントの横断面においてA成分とB成分の多層
積層構造を有するフィラメントを言う。多層積層構造を
有するフィラメントの任意の横断面における接合形態
は、該フィラメントの長手方向に沿って一様に連続して
いることが好ましいが、その一部に非連続構造を含んで
いてもよい。一様に連続した構造を有する糸は、紡糸、
延伸操業性が良好な事や製品となってから欠点を出さな
いという点から好ましい。ここで、接合形態とは、A成
分とB成分の貼り合わせの形態を言う。又、多層構造と
は、A成分とB成分との接合形態を取る少なくとも2層
以上、好ましくは2〜10層、更に好ましくは3〜7層
の層状構造を言う。その一例を添付第1図に示す。
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The latently crimped yarn referred to in the present invention refers to a filament having a multilayer laminated structure of the A component and the B component in the cross section of a single filament. It is preferable that the bonding form of the filament having a multilayer laminated structure in any cross section is uniformly continuous along the longitudinal direction of the filament, but a part thereof may include a discontinuous structure. Yarns with a uniform and continuous structure are spun,
It is preferable because stretching operability is good and no drawbacks appear after the product is obtained. Here, the bonding mode refers to a mode of bonding the A component and the B component. The multilayer structure refers to a layered structure of at least two layers, preferably two to ten layers, more preferably three to seven layers, in which the component A and the component B are joined. An example is shown in FIG.

【0016】潜在捲縮糸の断面形状は、A成分とB成分
の接合形態を形成でき、かつ維持することができ、本発
明の目的とする捲縮性能を発現できるものであれば、丸
断面、三角断面、Y断面、U断面、偏平断面等のいずれ
を用いてもよく、用途、目的に応じて使い分ける事がで
きる。特に三角断面、Y断面、U断面、偏平断面等の異
形断面のものが好ましい。
The cross-sectional shape of the latently crimped yarn is a round cross-section as long as it can form and maintain the bonded form of the component A and the component B and can express the crimping performance aimed at by the present invention. , A triangular cross section, a Y cross section, a U cross section, a flat cross section or the like may be used, and can be properly used depending on the application and purpose. In particular, those having irregular cross sections such as a triangular cross section, a Y cross section, a U cross section, and a flat cross section are preferable.

【0017】この中でも、異形度(周囲長/直径)は
3.2以上、好ましくは3.5〜6.0、更に好ましく
は3.7〜4.5である。ここで、直径は円相当径(つ
まり、同一面積に相当する円の直径)を表す。このよう
な異形度を選択することにより異形断面と多層積層構造
の効果が相乗的に作用し、各フィラメント間のランダム
収縮性・ランダム捲縮性をより一層増加させ、且つ繊維
・繊維間のフクラミを増加させ、摩擦力を低減させる。
その事により、布帛のソフトさ、フクラミ感、ハリ、コ
シの改善が出来、且つ本発明独自の緻密さを感じる充実
感と表面のソフトなタッチを表現するのに好ましいもの
である。
Among them, the degree of irregularity (perimeter / diameter) is 3.2 or more, preferably 3.5 to 6.0, and more preferably 3.7 to 4.5. Here, the diameter represents a circle equivalent diameter (that is, a diameter of a circle corresponding to the same area). By selecting such a degree of irregularity, the effects of the irregularly shaped cross section and the multilayer laminated structure act synergistically to further increase the random shrinkage and random crimpability between filaments, and to increase the swelling between fibers. And reduce frictional force.
This makes it possible to improve the softness, softness, firmness, and firmness of the fabric, and is preferable for expressing a sense of fulfillment and a soft touch on the surface, which is unique to the present invention.

【0018】全沸収率(SH1)とは、捲縮による収縮
率(以下捲縮収縮率(SH3)と記す)と捲縮によらな
い収縮率(以下直線収縮率(SH2)と記す)の和であ
る。これらの値の算出方法は以下に示す。
The total boiling yield (SH1) is defined as the shrinkage ratio due to crimping (hereinafter referred to as crimp shrinkage ratio (SH3)) and the shrinkage ratio not due to crimping (hereinafter referred to as linear shrinkage ratio (SH2)). It is sum. The method of calculating these values will be described below.

【0019】延伸後の繊維(マルチフィラメント)を一
定長(例えば30cm)計り取り、その繊維上にて一定
長(例えば20cm:L0)の所に印を付ける。次い
で、繊維同士が絡み合わないように十分注意し、98℃
の熱水中に15分間浸漬し処理する。処理後、繊維が伸
びないように注意しながら熱水より取り出し、テッシュ
ペーパー等にて繊維表面の水を切り、室内に放置後十分
風乾する。風乾後、この繊維の端に0.5mg/dの荷
重を掛けて垂直に垂らし、印の間隔の処理後の長さ(L
1)を測定する。更に加重を0.5g/dに増やして長
さ(L2)を測定する。
The drawn fiber (multifilament) is measured for a certain length (for example, 30 cm), and a mark is made on the fiber at a certain length (for example, 20 cm: L0). Next, take care not to entangle the fibers.
For 15 minutes in hot water. After the treatment, the fiber is taken out of hot water while taking care not to stretch, and the surface of the fiber is drained off with a tissue paper or the like. After air-drying, a 0.5 mg / d load was applied to the end of the fiber, and the fiber was suspended vertically.
Measure 1). Further increase the weight to 0.5 g / d and measure the length (L2).

【0020】[0020]

【数1】全沸収率 :SH1=〔(L0−L1)/L
0〕×100(%)
## EQU1 ## Total boiling yield: SH1 = [(L0-L1) / L
0] × 100 (%)

【0021】[0021]

【数2】直線収縮率:SH2=〔(L0−L2)/L
0〕×100(%)
## EQU2 ## Linear shrinkage: SH2 = [(L0-L2) / L
0] × 100 (%)

【0022】[0022]

【数3】捲縮収縮率:SH3=SH1−SH2(%)## EQU3 ## Crimp shrinkage: SH3 = SH1-SH2 (%)

【0023】本願発明では、全沸収率が少なくとも40
%、好ましくは50%〜80%である。全沸収率が40
%未満では、本願で目的とする様な、ハリ、腰感に優れ
た、且つ緻密さを感じる充実感にあふれ、且つ表面タッ
チが極めてソフトな布帛を得る事は出来ない。
In the present invention, the total boiling yield is at least 40
%, Preferably 50% to 80%. Total boiling yield is 40
If it is less than%, it is not possible to obtain a cloth which is excellent in firmness and waist feeling and which is full of feeling of denseness and which has an extremely soft surface touch as intended in the present application.

【0024】本願発明の一番の特徴は繊維を構成する各
フィラメント間において、2種のポリマーの接合状態、
接合比率が一本一本異なり、従ってフィラメント各一本
毎に繊維の状態や物性が異なる。具体的には、マルチフ
ィラメントを構成する各フィラメント間での直線収縮率
の最大値と最小値の差(以下これを全収差と記す)が少
なくとも15%以上、好ましくは20%以上である。全
収差が15%に満たない値では、緻密さは発現するが、
繊維を構成する各フィラメント間において、収縮率の差
が少なく、目的とする十分なフクラミ、ハリ、腰、及び
表面タッチが十分に出ない。各フィラメントの直線収縮
率の測定は、各フィラメントごとに長さを測定する事に
よって測る。この場合、無荷重であるが弛みのないよう
のばして測定する。
The most important feature of the present invention is the bonding state of two kinds of polymers between each filament constituting the fiber,
The joining ratio differs one by one, and therefore the state and physical properties of the fiber differ for each filament. Specifically, the difference between the maximum value and the minimum value of the linear shrinkage between the filaments constituting the multifilament (hereinafter referred to as total aberration) is at least 15% or more, preferably 20% or more. At a value where the total aberration is less than 15%, denseness is exhibited,
The difference in shrinkage between the filaments constituting the fiber is small, and the desired sufficient swelling, firmness, waist, and surface touch are not obtained. The linear shrinkage of each filament is measured by measuring the length of each filament. In this case, the measurement is performed with no load but without any slack.

【0025】特に、各フィラメント間でのバラツキの変
動率〔(全収差/構成単糸の直線収縮率の平均値)×1
00〕が50〜200%となる事が風合い、自然なタッ
チの付与の点でより好ましい。
In particular, the variation rate of variation between filaments [(total aberration / average value of linear shrinkage rates of constituent single yarns) × 1]
00] is 50 to 200%, which is more preferable in terms of texture and natural touch.

【0026】特に、本願繊維の各フィラメントでの収縮
率の変動は、繊維を構成する2種類のポリマーの接合比
率によって概ね決定され、低収縮成分の比率が大きいフ
ィメントでは収縮率が低く、逆に高収縮成分の比率が大
きいフィラメントでは収縮率が高くなる。こうしたどち
らか一方のポリマー構成比率が大きいフィラメントで
は、フィラメントに発生する捲縮が少なくなる。従っ
て、低収縮のフィラメントでは収縮率も低く、且つ捲縮
数も少ない為に布帛にした場合、布帛の表面に穏やかな
クリンプを持ったループとして発現する。又、前述した
ように、マルチフィラメント全体としては、高収縮成分
の比率を多く設定している為に表面にでるループが比較
的少ない為に表面タッチが極めてソフトとなる。このル
ープはそのままでも、表面タッチの改善に大いに有用で
あるが、布帛とした後に布帛表面のサンディング加工に
よりループを切断してやれば更に好ましいソフトな風合
いに仕上げることができる。
In particular, the fluctuation of the shrinkage rate of each filament of the fiber of the present invention is generally determined by the bonding ratio of the two kinds of polymers constituting the fiber. A filament having a high ratio of the high shrinkage component has a high shrinkage. In such a filament having a large polymer composition ratio, crimp generated in the filament is reduced. Therefore, when a filament having a low shrinkage has a low shrinkage ratio and a small number of crimps, it is expressed as a loop having a gentle crimp on the surface of the fabric when formed into a fabric. Further, as described above, the surface of the multifilament as a whole has a relatively large number of high-shrinkage components, so that the number of loops on the surface is relatively small, so that the surface touch becomes extremely soft. The loop as it is is very useful for improving the surface touch, but if the loop is cut by sanding the surface of the fabric after forming the fabric, a more favorable soft texture can be achieved.

【0027】本願発明の目的とする布帛を得る為には、
単なる繊維の長手方向の収縮のみでなく、捲縮による繊
維の横方向のフクラミも必要であり、その為には全収縮
率に占める捲縮収縮率の値が50〜90%である事が好
ましい。50%未満では、繊維の横方向(布帛の厚み方
向)のフクラミが不十分となり、ハリ、腰、フクラミに
おいて十分ではない。
In order to obtain the cloth intended for the present invention,
In addition to simple shrinkage in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, crimping in the lateral direction of the fiber due to crimping is necessary. For this purpose, it is preferable that the value of the crimp shrinkage relative to the total shrinkage be 50 to 90%. . If it is less than 50%, the swelling in the transverse direction of the fiber (the thickness direction of the fabric) becomes insufficient, and the stiffness, waist, and swelling are not sufficient.

【0028】本願発明の繊維は、高収縮成分と低収縮成
分よりなる複合繊維であり、沸水処理等加熱処理によ
り、繊維の一本一本に捲縮が発現する。目的とする風合
いを得る為には、マルチフィラメントを構成する単一フ
ィラメントすべての沸水処理後の捲縮数が少なくとも2
0ヶ/インチであることが好ましく、更に好ましくは少
なくとも25ヶ/インチである。その一例として実施例
の繊維の捲縮状態を図2に示した。なお、捲縮数の測定
は全収縮率測定と同様にして沸水処理した糸を0.5m
gの荷重下で1インチの長さに切り取り、注意深く単一
フィラメントに分離してクリンプ数を数えることによっ
て行った。
The fiber of the present invention is a composite fiber composed of a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component, and each fiber is crimped by heating treatment such as boiling water treatment. In order to obtain the desired texture, the number of crimps of all the single filaments constituting the multifilament after the boiling water treatment is at least 2
It is preferably 0 / inch, more preferably at least 25 / inch. As an example, a crimped state of the fiber of the example is shown in FIG. The number of crimps was measured in the same manner as in the measurement of the total shrinkage by 0.5 m of the yarn subjected to the boiling water treatment.
This was done by cutting to a length of 1 inch under a load of g, carefully separating into single filaments and counting the number of crimps.

【0029】又、沸水処理後の捲縮の数も全フィラメン
ト画一となるよりも各々のフィラメント間で異なる方が
より好ましい。つまり、沸水処理後の各フィラメント間
の捲縮数のバラツキとして、好ましくは変動率が50〜
200%である。これによって、布帛になってからも繊
維繊維間に微少な自然の空隙が多数形成され、フクラミ
感や、充実感を生み出す事になる。
Further, it is more preferable that the number of crimps after the boiling water treatment is different between the respective filaments, rather than being the same for all the filaments. In other words, the variation in the number of crimps between the filaments after the boiling water treatment is preferably 50 to 50%.
200%. As a result, a large number of minute natural voids are formed between the fibers even after the fabric is formed, and a feeling of swelling and a sense of fulfillment are produced.

【0030】本願発明の複合繊維は沸水処理等、加熱処
理により捲縮が発現するが、発現する捲縮を伸ばすのに
必要な力は大きいほど安定しているという点で好まし
く、例えば30mg/d程度あれば、布帛となっても十
分良好なフクラミを発現できる。
Although the composite fiber of the present invention develops crimp by heat treatment such as boiling water treatment, the larger the force required for elongating the developed crimp, the more stable the fiber is. For example, 30 mg / d If it is to the extent, a sufficiently good swelling can be exhibited even in the case of fabric.

【0031】本発明で使用する高収縮ポリエステル成分
(以下A成分と略称する)は、熱収縮特性の大きなポリ
エステルであり、通常変性ポリエステルを使用する。例
えばテレフタル酸又は2,6−ナフタレンジカルボン酸
を主成分とするジカルボン酸成分と、エチレングリコ−
ルを主成分とする芳香族ポリエステルを公知の方法で製
造する際に、第三成分として一般式
The high shrinkage polyester component (hereinafter abbreviated as A component) used in the present invention is a polyester having a large heat shrinkage property, and usually a modified polyester is used. For example, a dicarboxylic acid component containing terephthalic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid as a main component, and ethylene glycol-
When producing an aromatic polyester mainly containing toluene as a third component, a general formula is used as a third component.

【化1】 (式中、Rは水素原子或いはメチル、エチル、n−プロ
ピル、iso−プロピル、n−ブチル、t−ブチル基等
のアルキル基を記す)で表されるイソフタル酸或いはそ
の脂肪族エステル類、或いは一般式
Embedded image (Wherein, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl group, etc.) or an aliphatic ester thereof, or General formula

【化2】 (式中、Xは水素原子或いはメチル、エチル、n−プロ
ピル、iso−プロピル、n−ブチル、t−ブチル基等
のアルキル基を、l、mは整数を、Bは水素原子又はメ
チル基を記す)で表されるビスフェノ−ルA骨格を有す
る化合物、或いは一般式
Embedded image (In the formula, X represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl group, l and m represent integers, and B represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. Or a compound having a bisphenol A skeleton represented by the following general formula:

【化3】 (式中、Yは水素原子或いはメチル、エチル、n−プロ
ピル、iso−プロピル、n−ブチル、t−ブチル基等
のアルキル基を、l、mは整数を、Bは水素原子又はメ
チル基を記す)で表されるビスフェノ−ルS骨格を有す
る化合物を共重合せしめて得られる。
Embedded image (Wherein, Y represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl group, l and m represent integers, and B represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. The compound having a bisphenol S skeleton represented by the following formula is copolymerized.

【0032】A成分に共重合せしめる第三成分の添加配
合量は通常3〜30モル%、好ましくは5〜20モル%
である。3モル%より少ないと、充分な収縮性能が得ら
れず、目的とする嵩高性、ふくらみ感を発現できない。
又、30モル%より多いと、ポリマ−の力学的物性或い
は熱的物性が低下するばかりか、収縮性が高すぎるため
粗硬感が増したり、共重合成分を添加したポリエステル
が濃染となりすぎ、織編物の均一染色が劣る。特に化
2、化3の共重合による変性ポリエステルを使う事によ
り、ポリマーのガラス転移温度(Tg)も上がり、繊維
自体の耐熱性も改善でき、より好ましい。
The amount of the third component to be copolymerized with the component A is usually 3 to 30 mol%, preferably 5 to 20 mol%.
It is. If it is less than 3 mol%, sufficient shrinkage performance cannot be obtained, and the desired bulkiness and swelling cannot be achieved.
On the other hand, if it is more than 30 mol%, not only the mechanical properties or thermal properties of the polymer deteriorate, but also the shrinkage is too high to increase the coarse hardness, or the polyester added with the copolymer component becomes too deeply dyed. The uniform dyeing of the woven or knitted fabric is inferior. Particularly, by using a modified polyester obtained by copolymerization of Chemical formulas 2 and 3, the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polymer can be increased and the heat resistance of the fiber itself can be improved, which is more preferable.

【0033】本発明で使用する低収縮ポリエステル成分
(以下B成分と略称する)は、A成分で使用するポリエ
ステル成分より、沸収率が低くなくてはならず、従って
変性率も小さい。例えば、テレフタル酸又は2,6−ナ
フタレンジカルボン酸を主成分とするジカルボン酸成分
と、エチレングリコ−ルを主成分とするグリコ−ル成分
からなる芳香族ポリエステルを公知の方法で製造する
際、第三成分を添加することなくそのまま重合するか、
或いはA成分に共重合させる化合物を、A成分における
添加配合量よりも通常3モル%以上少なく、好ましくは
5〜10モル%少なくした共重合ポリエステルとする。
The low shrinkage polyester component (hereinafter abbreviated as component B) used in the present invention must have a lower boiling yield than the polyester component used in component A, and therefore have a lower modification rate. For example, when an aromatic polyester composed of a dicarboxylic acid component containing terephthalic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid as a main component and a glycol component containing ethylene glycol as a main component is produced by a known method, Polymerization as it is without adding three components,
Alternatively, the compound to be copolymerized with the component A is a copolymer polyester which is usually 3 mol% or less, preferably 5 to 10 mol%, less than the compounding amount of the component A.

【0034】A成分、B成分共に第三成分を共重合させ
たポリエステルを使用する場合、A成分とB成分の添加
配合量の差が3モル%より小さいと、A成分、B成分の
収縮特性の違いによる充分な収縮差、捲縮率の差が得ら
れず、繊維中の各フィラメント間の収縮率のバラツキや
捲縮のバラツキが発現せずに、目的とする性能、風合い
が十分に発現できない。
When a polyester obtained by copolymerizing the third component with both the A component and the B component is used, if the difference between the added amounts of the A component and the B component is less than 3 mol%, the shrinkage characteristics of the A component and the B component are reduced. Sufficient shrinkage difference and crimp rate difference cannot be obtained due to the difference in the fiber, and the desired performance and texture are fully exhibited without the variation in the shrinkage ratio between each filament in the fiber and the variation in the crimp. Can not.

【0035】かかるA成分、B成分のポリエステルの製
造時或いは成形加工時に、顔料、艶消し剤、蛍光増白
剤、紫外線吸収剤、酸化防止剤、制電剤及び有機アミ
ン、有機カルボン酸アミドなどのエ−テル結合抑制剤
等、必要に応じ種々使用してもよい。
Pigments, matting agents, fluorescent whitening agents, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, antistatic agents, organic amines, organic carboxylic acid amides, etc., during the production or molding of the polyesters of component A and component B. Various ether bond inhibitors may be used as necessary.

【0036】A成分/B成分の接合比率は、目的を達成
すれば特に限定はしないが、好ましくはマルチフィラメ
ント全体として2.5/1〜1/1(重量比、以下同
じ)更に好ましくは2/1〜1.2/1である。この値
が2.5/1より大きくても、1/1より小さくても、
本発明に言うところの、適度なフクラミと同時に緻密さ
を感じる充実感があり、ハリ、コシに富み、且つ表面タ
ッチが極めてソフトという新感覚の布帛を得ることは困
難である。
The joining ratio of the component A / component B is not particularly limited as long as the object is achieved, but is preferably 2.5 / 1 to 1/1 (weight ratio, hereinafter the same) as the whole multifilament, more preferably 2 / 1 to 1.2 / 1. Whether this value is greater than 2.5 / 1 or less than 1/1,
According to the present invention, it is difficult to obtain a new-feeling fabric that has a fullness of feeling the fineness at the same time as the moderate swelling, and is rich in firmness and firmness, and the surface touch is extremely soft.

【0037】即ち、A成分がB成分より繊維中での比率
が大きい為に、布帛の加工工程、特に風合い発現に重要
な精錬・アルカリ減量後のリラックス処理や乾熱セット
において各々のフィラメントの収縮率の差や捲縮の差が
良好に発現し、布帛のハリ、コシ、フクラミや布帛表面
の好ましい毛羽感を発現している。
That is, since the ratio of the component A in the fiber is larger than that of the component B, the filaments shrink in the fabric processing step, especially in the relaxation treatment after refining and alkali weight reduction, which is important for the appearance of texture, and in the dry heat setting. The difference in the percentage and the difference in the crimp are well expressed, and the fabric has a firmness, stiffness, swelling and a desirable fluffiness on the surface of the fabric.

【0038】上述したように繊維を構成する各フィラメ
ント間にA成分、B成分の比率とそれらの積層の構造が
異なり、特にB成分(低収縮成分)の比率が大きく且つ
層の数が少ないものでは、捲縮数も収縮率も小さいもの
となり、これらのフィラメントが布帛の中において布帛
の表面に浮き上がり微少な毛羽を生じることとなる。逆
にA成分(高収縮成分)が多いフィラメントでは捲縮数
と同時に収縮率も大きくなり、それらのフィラメントは
布帛の内部に沈み布帛のハリ、コシ、フクラミの発現に
寄与すると布帛内部に微小に分散した空隙を発現させ
る。
As described above, the ratio of the A component and the B component between the filaments constituting the fiber and the structure of their laminations are different, and particularly, the ratio of the B component (low shrinkage component) is large and the number of layers is small. In this case, both the number of crimps and the shrinkage ratio become small, and these filaments float on the surface of the fabric in the fabric, resulting in minute fluff. Conversely, for filaments containing a large amount of the A component (high shrinkage component), the shrinkage increases simultaneously with the number of crimps. Develop dispersed voids.

【0039】ここで、接合比率とは、繊維中の全フィラ
メントにおけるA成分、B成分の繊維の横断面に占める
面積の平均値であり、紡糸時にA成分、B成分をそれぞ
れ別々のギアポンプで計量する事により容易に制御でき
る。
Here, the bonding ratio is an average value of the area of the A component and the B component in the cross section of the fiber in all the filaments in the fiber, and the A component and the B component are measured by separate gear pumps at the time of spinning. Can be easily controlled.

【0040】各フィラメントにA成分とB成分の積層構
造を作成せしめる方法は、我々が従来提案している方法
が好ましく利用できる。例えば特公昭47−9533号
公報に示す混練型分配板や特開昭59−100717号
公報に示す静的混練素子を上げることが出来る。静止混
練素子としては、例えばケニックス社の「スタティック
ミキサ−」、ROSS社ISGミキサ−、スル−ザ−社
のミキシングエレメント等を用いることができる。
As a method of forming a laminated structure of the component A and the component B on each filament, a method which has been conventionally proposed by us can be preferably used. For example, a kneading type distribution plate disclosed in JP-B-47-9533 and a static kneading element disclosed in JP-A-59-100717 can be used. As the static kneading element, for example, a "static mixer" manufactured by Kenix, an ISG mixer manufactured by ROSS, and a mixing element manufactured by Sulzer can be used.

【0041】こうした静的混練素子を通過したポリマー
流は素子の数の2乗に分流される。ここでは通常、静止
混練素子を通常1〜4個使用する。このエレメントによ
りA,B両成分は2〜16層に積層される。A,B両成
分が複数個積層されたポリマー融液は多数の紡糸吐出孔
より空気中に押し出されフィラメントを形成する。従っ
て、各フィラメントは、A、B両成分からなり、通常1
〜16層、好ましくは2〜10層、更に好ましくは3〜
7層である。層の数が多くなると、各フィラメント間の
収縮特性や捲縮特性の間に変動が小さくなり、目的とす
る風合い、性能が出にくい。
The polymer flow passing through such a static kneading element is split into the square of the number of elements. Here, usually 1 to 4 stationary kneading elements are used. With this element, both A and B components are laminated in 2 to 16 layers. The polymer melt in which a plurality of components A and B are laminated is extruded into the air from a number of spinning discharge holes to form a filament. Therefore, each filament is composed of both A and B components,
~ 16 layers, preferably 2 ~ 10 layers, more preferably 3 ~
There are seven layers. When the number of layers increases, the fluctuation between the shrinkage characteristics and the crimp characteristics between the filaments decreases, and the desired texture and performance are hardly obtained.

【0042】紡糸は、上述の2種類のポリマーを口金内
部に組み込んだ静的混合素子により多層に混合したもの
を口金の微細孔より吐出し巻き取る。巻き取り方式は、
1500m/分程度までの通常の速度のコンベ方式でも
良いし、3000m/分前後のPOY方式にて巻き取っ
ても良く、又5000m/分以上の高速紡糸(HOY)
方式にて巻き取っても良い。巻き取った繊維は、引き続
き延伸を行う。又、紡糸段階にて、同時に延伸する事
(SPD)も勿論可能である。
In spinning, a mixture obtained by mixing the above two types of polymers in a multilayer by a static mixing element incorporated in a die is discharged and wound from the fine holes of the die. The winding method is
A conveyor system with a normal speed of up to about 1500 m / min may be used, a POY system with a speed of about 3000 m / min may be wound, and a high-speed spinning (HOY) of 5000 m / min or more.
It may be wound by a method. The wound fiber is subsequently drawn. It is of course possible to simultaneously draw (SPD) in the spinning stage.

【0043】こうした静的混練素子を用いることによっ
て、各フィラメント毎のA成分/B成分の比率や積層構
造は図1に示すように大きく異なるが、各フィラメント
での長さ方向でのこうしたポリマーの比率や積層構造は
殆ど変化せず、従来のポリマーブレンド紡糸において根
本的な問題であった操業性の悪化を大きく改善できた。
By using such a static kneading element, the ratio of the A component / B component and the laminated structure of each filament are greatly different as shown in FIG. 1, but such a polymer in the length direction of each filament is different. The ratio and the laminated structure were hardly changed, and the deterioration of the operability which was a fundamental problem in the conventional polymer blend spinning was able to be largely improved.

【0044】延伸は、通常一般的に行われる加熱ローラ
ーと加熱板との組み合わせが好適に用いることが出来る
が、複数の加熱ローラーによる延伸でもよい。加熱ロー
ラーと加熱板との組み合わせの場合は、加熱ローラーに
て延伸を熱板にて熱セットを行い、目的に合致した糸質
や捲縮特性を持たせる。例えば、延伸温度は通常60〜
120℃、好ましくは65〜100℃、更に好ましくは
70〜90℃である。又、加熱板の温度は通常延伸温度
より10〜50℃と高めに設定するが、ここでは繊維の
全収縮率を目標の値に納める為に、通常120℃、好ま
しくは高々100℃である。延伸後に更に、例えば延伸
温度以下で、高々1.1倍の倍率にて延伸し、捲縮の出
方を改善することも可能である。
For the stretching, a combination of a heating roller and a heating plate, which is generally performed generally, can be suitably used, but stretching by a plurality of heating rollers may be used. In the case of a combination of a heating roller and a heating plate, drawing is performed by a heating roller and heat setting is performed by a heating plate to provide yarn quality and crimp characteristics that match the purpose. For example, the stretching temperature is usually 60 to
120 ° C, preferably 65-100 ° C, more preferably 70-90 ° C. Further, the temperature of the heating plate is usually set to be higher than the drawing temperature by 10 to 50 ° C., but is usually 120 ° C., preferably at most 100 ° C., in order to keep the total shrinkage of the fiber at a target value. After the stretching, for example, the film may be further stretched at a stretching temperature of not more than 1.1 times at a magnification of at most 1.1 to improve the crimp appearance.

【0045】織物、編み物は通常に使用される織り編み
物と同様の組織においても良好な効果が得られ、ソフト
なタッチを発現する事が出来、低コストにして新感覚の
布帛が得られると言うメリットがある。勿論、異収縮混
繊糸や複合加工糸の一成分として使う事や、より複雑な
織り組織にする事によって更に高度な風合い、タッチを
発現できる。
It can be said that the fabric and knitted fabric can provide a good effect even in the same structure as the normally used woven or knitted fabric, can exhibit a soft touch, and can produce a new sense of fabric at low cost. There are benefits. Of course, a higher texture and touch can be exhibited by using as a component of the different shrinkage mixed yarn or the composite processed yarn, or by making it a more complicated weave structure.

【0046】織物、編み物の加工は通常の繊維の加工と
同様の加工にて行う事が出来る。例えば、精錬、アルカ
リ減量、リラックス、染色、熱セット等の一連の工程で
あり、更に必要ならば樹脂加工等を施してもよい。
The processing of woven and knitted fabrics can be performed by the same processing as the processing of ordinary fibers. For example, it is a series of steps such as refining, alkali weight reduction, relaxation, dyeing, heat setting, and the like, and if necessary, resin processing or the like may be performed.

【0047】[0047]

【実施例】以下実施例により本発明を具体的に説明す
る。実施例中「部」とあるのはことわりのない限り「重
量部」を意味し、「%」とあるのはことわりのない限り
「重量%」を意味する。固有粘度〔η〕は、フェノール
/テトラクロロエタン=6/4の混合溶剤中20℃で常
法により求めた。又、走査電子顕微鏡(以下SEMと記
す)測定は、明石製作所社製走査電子顕微鏡にて測定し
た。又、捲縮の個数はオリンパス社製実体顕微鏡により
撮影した顕微鏡写真より1インチ当たりの個数に換算し
た。
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples. In the examples, “parts” means “parts by weight” unless otherwise specified, and “%” means “% by weight” unless otherwise specified. The intrinsic viscosity [η] was determined by a conventional method at 20 ° C. in a mixed solvent of phenol / tetrachloroethane = 6/4. Scanning electron microscope (hereinafter referred to as SEM) measurements were performed with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Akashi Seisakusho. The number of crimps was converted into the number per inch from a micrograph taken with a stereo microscope manufactured by Olympus Corporation.

【0048】実施例1〜11、比較例1、2 低収縮成分(A成分)としては、〔η〕=0.63の通
常のポリエチレンテレフタレート(以下、通常ポリエス
テルと称する)を使用した。又、高収縮成分(B成分)
としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに酸成分として
5モルのイソフタル酸を、又アルコール成分としてビス
フェノールA(2EO付加物)を5モル%共重合させた
変性ポリエステルを使用した。
Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 As the low shrinkage component (A component), ordinary polyethylene terephthalate having [η] = 0.63 (hereinafter, usually referred to as polyester) was used. High shrinkage component (B component)
A modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 5 mol% of isophthalic acid as an acid component and 5 mol% of bisphenol A (2EO adduct) as an alcohol component was used.

【0049】A成分とB成分の接合比率が各々表1の重
量比で混合されるように、エクストル−ダ−にて温度2
90℃で溶融後、各々別のギアポンプで計量して紡糸口
金に送液する。紡糸口金内部では、静止系混練素子(ケ
ニックスミキシングエレメント3個)を通過させて、
A、B両成分を多層構造を有するように混合させ、次い
で36個の等長のY型の紡糸細孔より溶融紡糸し100
0m/分の速度にて巻き取り、未延伸糸を得た。得られ
た未延伸糸の断面はおにぎり形をした角の丸いほぼ三角
形をしていた。その糸を延伸倍率3.6倍、延伸速度7
30m/分で75℃のロ−ラ−ヒ−タ−で延伸し、表1
に示す熱板(PLH)にて熱セット後、50デニール
(以下dと記す)/36フィラメント(以下fと記す)
のマルチフィラメントを得た(実施例1〜11、比較例
1、2)。これらの繊維の全沸収率、直収率、捲縮収縮
率、全沸収率に対する捲縮収縮率の割合の測定値、およ
びフクラミ感、充実感、ハリ・コシ感、ソフトタッチの
評価結果を表1に示した。
The temperature was set to 2 at the extruder so that the joining ratio of the component A and the component B was mixed at the weight ratios shown in Table 1.
After melting at 90 ° C., each is measured by a separate gear pump and sent to a spinneret. Inside the spinneret, a static kneading element (3 Kenics mixing elements) is passed,
The components A and B are mixed so as to have a multilayer structure, and then melt-spun from 36 equal-length Y-shaped spinning pores to form a mixture.
Winding was performed at a speed of 0 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn. The cross-section of the obtained undrawn yarn had an onigiri-shaped, almost triangular shape with rounded corners. The yarn was drawn 3.6 times at a draw rate of 7
The film was stretched with a roller heater at 75 ° C. at 30 m / min.
50 denier (hereinafter referred to as d) / 36 filaments (hereinafter referred to as f) after heat setting with a hot plate (PLH) shown in
(Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2) were obtained. The measured values of the total boiling yield, direct yield, crimp shrinkage, the ratio of the crimp shrinkage to the total boiling yield of these fibers, and the evaluation results of the feeling of fullness, fullness, firmness, firmness, and soft touch Are shown in Table 1.

【0050】繊維断面を顕微鏡にて観察すると添付第1
図に示すように少なくとも2層、多い物で7層程度の多
層構造を有する複合繊維であった。又、特徴的なことは
各繊維の複合形状(複合比率、複合形状、多層化の状態
等)が各々異なる事である。得られた延伸糸の物性を表
1に示す。
When the cross section of the fiber is observed with a microscope,
As shown in the figure, the composite fiber had a multilayer structure of at least two layers and at most about seven layers. What is characteristic is that each fiber has a different composite shape (composite ratio, composite shape, multi-layered state, etc.). Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained drawn yarn.

【0051】比較例3 〔η〕=0.63の通常のポリエチレンテレフタレート
(以下、通常ポリエステルと称する)を使用し、紡糸温
度290℃、紡糸速度1000m/分にて36個の等長
のY型の紡糸細孔より溶融紡糸した。得られた未延伸糸
の断面はおにぎり形をした角の丸いほぼ三角形をしてい
た。その糸を延伸倍率3.6倍、延伸速度730m/分
で84℃のロ−ラ−ヒ−タ−で延伸し、140℃のプレ
−トヒ−タ−でセットし、50デニール(以下dと記
す)/36フィラメント(以下fと記す)のマルチフィ
ラメントを得た。得られた延伸糸を熱水処理した後、捲
縮収縮値或いは直線収縮値を求めた。沸水収縮後の糸は
特に捲縮も生じていない通常の繊維であった。全沸収値
は8.3%、捲縮収縮率はなく、従って直線収縮率も
8.3%であった。
Comparative Example 3 Using normal polyethylene terephthalate (η) = 0.63 (hereinafter usually referred to as polyester), 36 isometric Y-types at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1000 m / min. Was melt spun from the spinning pores of No. 1. The cross-section of the obtained undrawn yarn had an onigiri-shaped, almost triangular shape with rounded corners. The yarn was drawn at a draw ratio of 3.6 times at a drawing speed of 730 m / min with a roller heater at 84 ° C., set with a plate heater at 140 ° C., and set at 50 denier (hereinafter referred to as d). ) / 36 filaments (hereinafter referred to as f) were obtained. After the obtained drawn yarn was subjected to hot water treatment, a crimp shrinkage value or a linear shrinkage value was obtained. The yarn after the boiling water shrinkage was an ordinary fiber without any crimping. The total boiling point was 8.3%, there was no crimp shrinkage, and the linear shrinkage was 8.3%.

【0052】比較例4 〔η〕=0.63の通常のポリエチレンテレフタレート
(以下、通常ポリエステルと称する)を使用し、紡糸温
度290℃、紡糸速度1000m/分にて36個の等長
のY型の紡糸細孔より溶融紡糸した。得られた未延伸糸
の断面はおにぎり形をした角の丸いほぼ三角形をしてい
た。その糸を延伸倍率3.6倍、延伸速度730m/分
で84℃のロ−ラ−ヒ−タ−で延伸し、100℃のプレ
−トヒ−タ−でセットし、25d/18fのマルチフィ
ラメントを得た。又、〔η〕=0.63のアルコール成
分としてビスフェノールA(2EO付加物)を5モル%
共重合させた変性ポリエステルを使用し、紡糸温度28
5℃、紡糸速度1000m/分にて36個の等長のY型
の紡糸細孔より溶融紡糸した。得られた未延伸糸の断面
はおにぎり形をした角の丸いほぼ三角形をしていた。そ
の糸を延伸倍率3.6倍、延伸速度730m/分で84
℃のロ−ラ−ヒ−タ−で延伸し、90℃のプレ−トヒ−
タ−でセットし、25d/18fのマルチフィラメント
を得た。
Comparative Example 4 Using regular polyethylene terephthalate (η) = 0.63 (hereinafter, usually referred to as polyester), 36 isometric Y-types at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1000 m / min. Was melt spun from the spinning pores of No. 1. The cross-section of the obtained undrawn yarn had an onigiri-shaped, almost triangular shape with rounded corners. The yarn is drawn at a draw ratio of 3.6 times at a drawing speed of 730 m / min with a roller heater at 84 ° C., and set with a plate heater at 100 ° C. to obtain a 25d / 18f multifilament. I got In addition, bisphenol A (2EO adduct) was used as an alcohol component of [η] = 0.63 at 5 mol%.
Using a copolymerized modified polyester, a spinning temperature of 28
Melt spinning was performed from 36 equal-length Y-shaped spinning pores at 5 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1000 m / min. The cross-section of the obtained undrawn yarn had an onigiri-shaped, almost triangular shape with rounded corners. The yarn was drawn at a draw ratio of 3.6 times at a drawing speed of 730 m / min.
Stretched with a roller heater at 90 ° C and a plate heater at 90 ° C.
It was set with a tar to obtain a 25d / 18f multifilament.

【0053】この2種の繊維を更に、巻き返し機によっ
て2本合糸し比較例4の異収縮混繊糸とした。
The two types of fibers were further combined into two yarns by a rewinding machine to obtain a different shrinkage mixed yarn of Comparative Example 4.

【0054】混繊糸に使用した繊維の熱収縮特性を評価
する為に、合糸前の各々の延伸糸を熱水処理した後、捲
縮収縮値或いは直線収縮値を求めた。いずれも沸水収縮
後の糸は特に捲縮も生じていない通常の繊維であった。
低収縮側の糸の全沸収値は10.9%、捲縮収縮率はな
く、従って直線収縮率も10.9%であり、高収縮側の
全沸収値は34.3%であった。
In order to evaluate the heat shrinkage characteristics of the fibers used for the mixed fiber, each stretched yarn before being combined was subjected to a hot water treatment, and then a crimp shrinkage value or a linear shrinkage value was obtained. In each case, the yarns after the boiling water shrinkage were ordinary fibers with no particular crimp.
The total yield of the yarn on the low shrinkage side was 10.9%, there was no crimp shrinkage, so the linear shrinkage was also 10.9%, and the total yield on the high shrinkage side was 34.3%. Was.

【0055】比較例5 実施例1のA成分とB成分を3/2とし、紡糸口金内部
での静止系混練素子のケニックスミキシングエレメント
を5個とし、延伸後マルチフィラメントを熱セットする
熱板温度を110℃とした他は実施例と同様の方法で5
0d/36fマルチフィラメントを得た。
Comparative Example 5 The components A and B in Example 1 were set to 3/2, the kneading mixing element of the static kneading element in the spinneret was set to five, and a hot plate on which the multifilament was heat-set after drawing was used. Except that the temperature was changed to 110 ° C., 5
A 0d / 36f multifilament was obtained.

【0056】上記方法にて得た実施例1〜11および比
較例1〜5のマルチフィラメントの物性を表1に示す。
また、実施例3のマルチフィラメントを構成する単一フ
ィラメントをほぐして、捲縮状態の分布を調べるため、
SEM測定を行った。この結果を図2に示す。
Table 1 shows the physical properties of the multifilaments of Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 obtained by the above method.
Further, in order to examine the distribution of the crimped state by unraveling a single filament constituting the multifilament of Example 3,
An SEM measurement was performed. The result is shown in FIG.

【0057】[0057]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0058】布帛の評価(1) 実施例1〜11および比較例1〜5で得られたマルチフ
ィラメントを経糸および緯糸に使用して平織を織り、6
0℃にて精練後、95℃でリラックスした後180℃で
ヒートセットした。ヒートセットは、経緯ともにしわ伸
ばしの為1〜2%伸張して実施した。該布を15%のア
ルカリ減量を施した後、分散染料を使用し130℃でベ
ージュ色に染色し、次に170℃で仕上げセットした。
得られた各種織物を熟練者の手触り風合い評価を行っ
た。評価は、ふくらみ感、ソフト感、ハリ、コシ感につ
いて行い、特に優れているものを◎、優れているものを
○、やや劣っているものを△、劣っているものを×と記
した。又、総合評価についても同様な評価を行った。結
果を表2に記す。
Evaluation of Fabric (1) Plain weave was prepared by using the multifilaments obtained in Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 for warp and weft.
After scouring at 0 ° C, relaxing at 95 ° C and heat setting at 180 ° C. The heat setting was carried out by stretching 1 to 2% for wrinkle growth in both processes. After subjecting the fabric to a 15% alkali weight loss, it was dyed beige at 130 ° C. using a disperse dye and then finished set at 170 ° C.
The texture of each of the obtained fabrics was evaluated by a skilled worker. The evaluation was made on the feeling of swelling, softness, firmness, and firmness. A particularly excellent thing was marked with ◎, an excellent thing was marked with ○, a slightly poor thing was marked with Δ, and an inferior thing was marked with x. Similar evaluations were made for the overall evaluation. The results are shown in Table 2.

【0059】布帛の評価(2) 実施例1〜11および比較例1〜5で得られたマルチフ
ィラメントを緯糸とし、経糸に通常のポリエステル繊維
を使用して平織(タフタ)を織り、60℃にて精錬後、
15%のアルカリ減量の後、液流染色機を用いて130
℃にてリラックスの後、180℃の乾熱にてセットし
た。仕上がりの布帛を熟練者の手触りで風合い評価を行
った。評価は、ふくらみ感、ソフト感、ハリ、コシ感に
ついて行い、特に優れているものを◎、優れているもの
を○、やや劣っているものを△、劣っているものを×と
記した。又、総合評価についても同様な評価を行った。
結果を表2に記す。
Evaluation of Fabric (2) The multifilaments obtained in Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were used as wefts, and plain weaves (taffeta) were woven using ordinary polyester fibers for the warp. After refining,
After a 15% alkali weight loss, 130 using a jet dyeing machine.
After relaxing at ℃, it was set at 180 ° C. dry heat. The texture of the finished fabric was evaluated by the touch of a skilled person. The evaluation was made on the feeling of swelling, softness, firmness, and firmness. A particularly excellent thing was marked with ◎, an excellent thing was marked with ○, a slightly poor thing was marked with Δ, and an inferior thing was marked with x. Similar evaluations were made for the overall evaluation.
The results are shown in Table 2.

【0060】[0060]

【表2】 [Table 2]

【0061】[0061]

【発明の効果】本発明のランダム潜在捲縮糸は、良好な
潜在収縮率と潜在捲縮性を有し、しかもそれらのいずれ
もが繊維中の各フイラメント間でランダムなバラツキを
有しており、布帛にした場合、良好なハリ、コシ、フク
ラミ感と非常に自然な充実感を発現させる事が出来る。
The latent latent crimped yarns of the present invention have good latent shrinkage and potential crimpability, and all of them have random variations among the filaments in the fiber. When made into a fabric, a good firmness, firmness, swelling and a very natural sense of fulfillment can be exhibited.

【0062】又、繊維自体が上述のごとく収縮特性及び
捲縮特性において非常に分散度の大きい繊維である為
に、複雑な繊維構成や織り組織を必要とする事なく品位
の高い、感性に優れた織物、編み物とする事が出来、コ
ストパフォーマンスに優れるものである。しかも繊維を
構成する各フィラメント間において収縮率や捲縮率が大
きく異なっているために、布帛とした場合も上述した特
性以外にも着心地感や快適性や縫製等の加工性を大きく
改善するストレッチ性も付与することが出来る。
Further, since the fiber itself has a very large degree of dispersion in shrinkage characteristics and crimp characteristics as described above, it does not require a complicated fiber structure or woven structure, and has high quality and excellent sensitivity. It can be made into woven and knitted fabrics and has excellent cost performance. Moreover, since the shrinkage and the crimping ratio are greatly different between the filaments constituting the fiber, even in the case of fabric, the comfort, comfort, and workability such as sewing are greatly improved in addition to the above-mentioned characteristics. Stretch properties can also be imparted.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】本願発明の複合構造の形態の一例を示すもので
ある。
FIG. 1 shows an example of a form of a composite structure according to the present invention.

【図2】沸水処理後の捲縮の発現状態のSEM写真の一
例であって、繊維の形状を示すものである。
FIG. 2 is an example of an SEM photograph showing a state of crimping after a boiling water treatment, and shows a fiber shape.

【図3】本願発明糸(実施例3)の全沸収値の各フィラ
メント毎の分布の一例を示すものである。
FIG. 3 shows an example of the distribution of the total boiling point value of each of the filaments of the yarn of the present invention (Example 3).

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

a.高収縮成分 b.低収縮成分 a. High shrinkage component b. Low shrinkage component

Claims (3)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 収縮率の異なる2種類のポリエステル成
分からなる繊維軸方向に連続した多層積層構造を有する
マルチフィラメントで、沸水処理によるマルチフィラメ
ントの全沸収率が少なくとも40%、マルチフィラメン
トの全沸収率に対する捲縮収縮率の割合が50%〜90
%、かつマルチフィラメントを構成する各フィラメント
間での直線収縮率の最大値と最小値の差が少なくとも1
5%以上であるランダムな潜在収縮性と潜在捲縮性を有
するポリエステル複合繊維。
1. A multifilament having a multilayer laminate structure composed of two types of polyester components having different shrinkage rates and continuous in the fiber axis direction, wherein the total boiling yield of the multifilament by boiling water treatment is at least 40% and the total multifilament is multifilament. The ratio of the crimp shrinkage ratio to the boiling yield is 50% to 90%.
%, And the difference between the maximum value and the minimum value of the linear shrinkage rate between the filaments constituting the multifilament is at least 1
A polyester composite fiber having random latent shrinkage and latent crimpability of 5% or more.
【請求項2】 収縮率のより高い成分(A)と収縮率の
より低い成分(B)の比率がマルチフィラメント全体で
A/B=1/1〜2.5/1(重量比)である請求項1
のポリエステル複合繊維。
2. The ratio of the component (A) having a higher shrinkage ratio to the component (B) having a lower shrinkage ratio is A / B = 1/1 to 2.5 / 1 (weight ratio) in the whole multifilament. Claim 1
Polyester composite fiber.
【請求項3】 マルチフィラメントを構成する単一フィ
ラメントのすべての沸水処理後の捲縮数が少なくとも2
0ヶ/インチである請求項1または請求項2のポリエス
テル複合繊維。
3. The number of crimps of all the single filaments constituting the multifilament after the boiling water treatment is at least 2
The polyester composite fiber according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the number is 0 / inch.
JP9815397A 1996-04-01 1997-03-31 Random latent crimpable yarn Pending JPH1037022A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP9815397A JPH1037022A (en) 1996-04-01 1997-03-31 Random latent crimpable yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP10468696 1996-04-01
JP8-104686 1996-04-01
JP9815397A JPH1037022A (en) 1996-04-01 1997-03-31 Random latent crimpable yarn

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH1037022A true JPH1037022A (en) 1998-02-10

Family

ID=26439357

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP9815397A Pending JPH1037022A (en) 1996-04-01 1997-03-31 Random latent crimpable yarn

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPH1037022A (en)

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