JPH1136138A - Production of combined polyester filament yarn having different shrinkage - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a process for stably and efficiently producing a combined polyester filament yarn having different shrinkage and capable of imparting a woven or knit fabric with excellent silky feeling having good bulkiness, softness, drapability and stiffness by a simple direct spinning and drawing process. SOLUTION: A combined filament yarn having different shrinkage is produced from two kinds of polyesters by a direct spinning and drawing process. In the above process, a copolyester of 2,2-bis 4-(β-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl}propane and isophthalic acid is used at least as the high-shrinkage component, the polyesters are extruded in molten state through different nozzles of the same spinneret 1, the extruded fibers are solidified by cooling and collected with an oil applied to the fibers at a position under the spinneret 1 within the range of 2 m from the spinneret, and the collected fibers are taken up with a 1st godet roller 6 at a speed of <=2,000 m/min and subsequently drawn between the 1st godet roller 6 and a 2nd godet roller 7.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester heterogeneous shrinkable fiber which can impart a good bulge, a soft feeling, a drape property and a silky feeling excellent in firmness and firmness to a fabric obtained by knitting and weaving. The present invention relates to a method for producing a yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns are frequently used as high value-added materials capable of imparting excellent swelling, softness, drapability and silky feeling to fabrics obtained by knitting and weaving. Have been. Among them, particularly, polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns are produced in large quantities because they are suitable as high-grade silky materials. The method for producing these different shrinkage mixed fibers is disclosed in JP-B-39-24317, JP-B-61-1986.
No. 19417, and a method using a copolymerized polyester as in the present invention is also disclosed in
Many are disclosed in JP-A-35450, JP-B-7-59770 and the like. However, these methods
Whether the spinning process and the stretching process are manufactured separately.
Alternatively, since the fibers are spun and drawn individually and then mixed, there is a disadvantage that productivity is low.

On the other hand, Japanese Utility Model Publication No. Sho 50-32574 discloses that a yarn is divided and discharged into two yarn groups, taken up by feed rollers provided for each of the yarn groups, stretched by a draw roller, and then combined. A method has been proposed in which a confounding treatment is performed to obtain a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. However, this method has disadvantages in that a feed roller and a draw roller must be provided for each yarn group, so that the equipment cost is high and a large equipment space is required.

Further, Japanese Patent Publication No. 1-221505 discloses that two types of adjacent extruders and a yarn melt-discharged from a spinneret are taken up by feed rollers provided for each yarn group, and then a draw roller is provided. And a method of forming a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber by entanglement treatment. The feature of this method is that since it is melted and discharged from a separate extruder and spinneret, the type of polymer to be supplied and discharge conditions can be individually set, and the heat treatment conditions can be different for each yarn group, That is, the shrinkage ratio and the difference in shrinkage ratio can be freely selected. However, since a roller is provided for each yarn group, the equipment cost is high, a large equipment space is required, and the threading on each roller is complicated, so that the workability is extremely poor. ing.

Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 61-160419 discloses a method in which two kinds of polyesters having different melting points are simultaneously melt-discharged, taken up at a speed of 4,000 m / min or more, and subsequently stretched. . This method is described in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 50-32574 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 1-2150.
As compared with the method described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5 (1994) -105, the number of rollers, the space for equipment, and the workability such as threading are improved. However, since the difference in shrinkage is provided by utilizing the difference in melting point between the two polyesters, cutting due to close contact between the single yarns during spinning and cutting for drawing at a speed of 4,000 m / min or more increase. There is a disadvantage that operability is significantly reduced.
In addition, although a melting point difference is given by using a copolymerized polyester, only giving a melting point difference is considered for the copolymer component, and no consideration is given to the weather resistance and dyeing fastness of the yarn. Not.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional problems and imparts a good bulge, softness, drapability and silky feeling to a fabric obtained by knitting and weaving. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for efficiently and stably producing a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber which can be produced by a simple direct spinning and drawing method.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, in the present invention, when two types of polyesters are used to produce a different shrinkage mixed fiber by a direct spin drawing method, at least 2,2-bis @ 4-
Using (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl） propane and isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester, it is melted and discharged from different discharge holes of the same spinneret, cooled and solidified, and then formed into a yarn within 2 m below the spinneret. Converge while refueling, then 2,000m with the first godet roller
The present invention provides a method for producing a polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber, wherein the yarn is drawn at a speed of not more than / min and subsequently stretched between a first godet roller and a second godet roller.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

In the present invention, in order to obtain a yarn which can impart good swelling, softness and drapability to a fabric obtained by knitting and weaving, two kinds of polyesters having different shrinkage ratios obtained by using two kinds of polyesters are used. Must be mixed yarn. The difference in shrinkage between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn must be appropriately selected depending on the desired feeling.
For example, in order to obtain a feeling of pure silk type, it is preferable that the difference in shrinkage between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn is small, and the difference is 3 to 8% in boiling water shrinkage at 190 ° C. The dry heat shrinkage is preferably 11 to 21%.

On the other hand, in order to obtain a feeling of peach touch, it is preferable that the difference in shrinkage between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn is large, and the difference is 12 to 21% in boiling water shrinkage. 1
The dry heat shrinkage at 90 ° C is preferably 23 to 35%. As a method of expressing a latent bulkiness by heat-treating a woven or knitted fabric using a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, a moist heat state including boiling water and / or 190 ° C.
It is a general method to heat-treat in a dry heat state in the vicinity without substantially imparting tension, such as a difference in boiling water shrinkage ratio or 190 ° C.
If the difference in dry heat shrinkage is small, it is difficult to impart good bulkiness and drapability to the woven or knitted fabric, and if the difference in shrinkage in boiling water is too large, the yarn length difference causes poor passability in the processing step, This is because large irregularities appear on the surface of the knitted fabric, which tends to cause a rough state. That is, the difference in shrinkage between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn is 12 to 21% in boiling water shrinkage, preferably 15 to 20%, and 23 to 35% in 190 ° C dry heat shrinkage.
Preferably, 26 to 33% has good passability in the processing step, and an excellent peach touch feeling can be obtained.

Therefore, in the present invention, in order to impart a difference in heat shrinkage, 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane (hereinafter referred to as BA) is used as the polyester constituting the highly shrinkable yarn. -EO) and a copolymerized polyester of isophthalic acid (hereinafter, referred to as IPA). Boiling water shrinkage difference and 190 ° C
In order to make at least one of the differences in the dry heat shrinkage ratio at least 5%, the total amount of copolymerization of BA-EO and IPA in the highly shrinkable yarn is preferably at least 3 mol%. In order to obtain a mixture, it is preferable that the total amount of the copolymers is 6 mol% or more.

When the total amount of the copolymers is 10 mol% or more, the shrinkage of the highly shrinkable yarn becomes too high, so that the processability deteriorates due to the difference in yarn length, and the unevenness of the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes large. Appear, resulting in a rough state, and the quality of the fabric is likely to deteriorate. On the other hand, if the total copolymerization amount is less than 3 mol%, the difference in shrinkage ratio is small, and the woven or knitted fabric tends to have a flat feeling.

Next, the polyester component of the low shrinkage yarn constituting the different shrinkage mixed yarn together with the high shrinkage yarn is not particularly limited, but polyethylene terephthalate (PET) suitable for a silky material is used. ) Are preferably used. The boiling water shrinkage of the low-shrink yarn is 15%.
Hereinafter, the dry heat shrinkage at 190 ° C. is preferably 18% or less, and when the shrinkage exceeds these values, the entire fabric is likely to shrink, resulting in a rough and hard feel. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn is preferably an irregular cross-sectional shape such as three-leaf, five-leaf, or six-leaf, for both the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn.

Next, the present invention will be described in the order of steps with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing one embodiment of a direct spinning and stretching apparatus used in the present invention. In FIG. 1, two kinds of polyesters to be a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn are melted and discharged from the same spinneret 1, and the spinning holes are arranged concentrically from the inner periphery of the spinneret 1. The unstretched yarn 3 for the shrinkable yarn is discharged from the outer peripheral portion of the unstretched yarn 3 for the shrinkable yarn.

The undrawn yarn 2 discharged from the spinneret 1
3 is cooled and solidified by the cooling device 4, and then 2
A predetermined oil agent is applied while the undrawn yarns 2 and 3 are bundled into unbleached undrawn yarns by an oil supply device 5 provided at a position within m. Then, the first godet roller 6 is 2,000
It is taken up at a speed of 0 m / min or less, continuously guided to the second godet roller 7, stretched between the first godet roller 6 and the second godet roller 7 by the peripheral speed difference between the two rollers, and wound around the package 9 by the winding machine 8. take. Further, if necessary, interlacing nozzles 10 and 11 may be provided after applying the oil agent or before the winding machine 8 to perform the confounding treatment. In the figure, ^6, and ^7, is a separating roller.

In the example shown in FIG. 1, the unstretched yarns 2 and 3 are bundled to form a blended unstretched yarn, and the oil agent is applied. However, in order to obtain a flash effect unique to the silky material, as shown in FIG. After the undrawn yarns 2 and 3 discharged from the same spinneret 1 are bundled while applying a predetermined oil to the left and right separately,
It is preferable that the yarns are combined by the godet roller 6 to form a mixed yarn.

In the present invention, the contraction ratio and the difference in the contraction ratio are set. The contraction ratio can be set to a desired value by appropriately selecting the temperature of the second godet roller 7. On the other hand, the difference in shrinkage can be obtained by appropriately changing the copolymerization amount of BA-EO and IPA in the copolyester to be a highly shrinkable yarn. In order to obtain a total amount of copolymerization of BA-EO and IPA of 6 to 10 mol%, and to obtain a silky material of pure silk touch, BA-EO
It is preferable that the total of the copolymerization amount of IPA and IPA is 3 to 6 mol%.

In the present invention, the first godet roller 6
When the undrawn yarn is to be taken off, it is necessary to converge while refueling with the refueling device 5 at a position within 2 m below the surface of the spinneret. Bundling of the yarns prevents non-uniformity in the degree of orientation between the single yarns due to the accompanying airflow of the yarns generated when the yarns are taken up by the first godet roller 6, thereby preventing yarn breakage and abnormal yarn quality. To do that. The oil supply device 5 is effective because the accompanying airflow becomes smaller as it comes closer to the spinneret surface, but it is not preferable if it is too close to the spinneret or arranged before the solidification point because the yarns break due to the close contact between the single yarns due to convergence. .

An appropriate position for focusing while refueling with the refueling device 5 is within 2 m from the spinneret surface, preferably 1.2 m.
It is important to do within. If the convergence position is longer than 2 m below the surface of the spinneret, as described above, the accompanying airflow increases and the yarn breaks or the yarn quality becomes uneven. The focusing method is
An oiling guide that also serves as a focusing guide is most preferable, but an oiling method using rollers may be used. In the case of the roller system, it is preferable that the focusing position be as close as possible to the refueling position. Alternatively, another guide or an interlace nozzle may be provided immediately after the refueling device 5 for focusing.

In the present invention, the unstretched yarn bundled while applying the oil agent is 2,000 rolled by the first godet roller 6.
It must be withdrawn at a rate of less than m / min. When the take-up speed exceeds 2,000 m / min, a yarn exhibiting a desired shrinkage rate is obtained in a non-tension state, but the shrinkage stress is extremely reduced, and the friction between adjacent yarns when fabric is formed. Thus, shrinkage is limited, and the desired feeling cannot be obtained.

Further, by heating the second godet roller 7, the stretched mixed fiber is heat-set, so that the shrinkage of the mixed fiber is set to a desired shrinkage by changing the temperature of the second godet roller. be able to. The temperature of the second godet roller is not particularly limited, but is preferably heated to 120 ° C. or higher. However, if the second godet roller is heated to 175 ° C. or more, the yarn sway on the second godet roller becomes large, and yarn breakage or fluff occurs in the package.

The elongation of the mixed fiber can be freely set between 25 and 45%, which is the elongation level of a normal drawn polyester yarn, by changing the peripheral speed difference between the first and second godet rollers. it can. The fineness of the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn constituting the different shrinkage mixed yarn is preferably the same, but the yarn and single yarn fineness may be varied as needed. In this case, in the yarn, the high shrinkage yarn has a fine fineness, the low shrinkage yarn has a large fineness, and in the single yarn fineness, the high shrinkage yarn side has a large fineness, and the low shrinkage yarn side has a fineness. Is preferred.

[0024]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. The measurement and evaluation of each physical property value in the examples were performed by the following methods. The measurement of the shrinkage ratio of the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn was separately performed from the mixed fiber. (1) boiling water shrinkage percentage (%) samples those Maki 20 times the circumferential length 1.125m squaring allowed winder as one sample, obtaining the first length L ₁ under 0.1 g / d load. Next, after treating in boiling water under no load for 30 minutes,
obtains the length L ₂ of the after treatment under g / d load, is calculated from the following equation. This is measured five times for one sample, and the average value is defined as the boiling water shrinkage (%). Boiling water shrinkage (BW) = [(L ₁ −L ₂ ) / L ₁ ] × 10
0 (2) boiling water shrinkage percentage difference (%) of boiling water shrinkage percentage difference _{(△ BW) = BW H -BW} L Note that the boiling water shrinkage percentage of the higher-shrinking yarns and BW _H, boiling water shrinkage of the low shrinkage yarn It was used as a BW _L. (3) Dry heat shrinkage at 190 ° C. (%) One sample was wound 20 times with a skein machine having a circumferential length of 1.125 m, and the initial length L ₃ was determined under a load of 0.1 g / d. Next, in a dry heat atmosphere at 190 ° C. under no load,
After treatment for 10 minutes, determine the length L ₄ of the after treatment under 0.1 g / d load, is calculated from the following equation. This is 5
The measurement is repeated and the average value is defined as the dry heat shrinkage (%) at 190 ° C. 190 ° C. dry heat shrinkage (HS) = [(L ₃ −L ₄ ) /
L ₃ ] × 100 (4) Dry heat shrinkage difference (%) Dry heat shrinkage difference (ΔHS) = HS _H −HS _L Note that the dry heat shrinkage of the highly shrinkable yarn is HS _H , and the low shrinkage is the dry heat shrinkage of the yarn was with the HS _L. (5) Worcester value (%) Using an Evenness Tester Model 80 manufactured by Keisoku Kogyo Co., Ltd., measuring yarn 100 m in a yarn speed of 25 m / min, twist number 120 T / M, chart speed 5 cm / min, measurement mode 1/2 Inert. did. The maximum peak on the chart at a measurement length of 50 m was A%, and the minimum peak was B%. This one
The sample was measured twice, and the average value was taken as the Wooster value (%). Worcester value = A−B / 2 (6) Evaluation of feeling The swelling, softness, drapability, firmness, and firmness were comprehensively evaluated by an eight-stage sensory evaluation. Grade 8 was the best, Grade 1 was the worst and Grade 6 or higher was accepted.
In addition, when the target texture was a pure silk texture, both the high-shrink yarn and the low-shrink yarn were spun using PET, and a difference in heat history was given by drawing. A woven fabric using a different shrinkage mixed fiber produced by a two-step method was used as a comparative fabric (A) having an evaluation rank of 8th grade. When the target texture is the peach touch texture, the high shrinkable yarn is 4.5 mol% of BA-EO and 4.0 mol% of IPA copolymerized polyester, and the low shrinkage yarn is PET. A woven fabric using a different shrinkage mixed fiber produced by a two-step method of spinning and stretching was used as a comparative fabric (B) having an evaluation rank of 8th grade.

Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 After an esterification reaction was carried out using terephthalic acid / ethylene glycol and IPA / ethylene glycol slurry, a BA-EO ethylene glycol solution was added, followed by a conventional method. And the intrinsic viscosity measured at 20 ° C. using a mixed solvent of phenol-tetrachloroethane and the like is 0.60.
Of several types of copolymerized polyester pellets shown in Table 1 were obtained. In addition, 0.02% by weight of titanium oxide was added as a matting agent.

As the polyester for the low shrinkage component, PET having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65, and the above-mentioned copolymerized polyester as the polyester for the high shrinkage component, the polyesters are separately melted and supplied from two extruders. Using a spinning machine to be introduced into the same pack, the polyester for low shrinkage component is discharged from the 24 holes of the Y-shaped cross-sectional shape of the outer periphery of the spinneret, and the Y-shaped cross-section of 24 holes of the inner periphery of the spinneret is used. The copolyester for a high shrinkage component was melt-discharged from each of the discharge holes having the shape, and directly subjected to spinning and drawing by the apparatus shown in FIG. The melted and discharged yarn is cooled, the distance between the spinneret surface and the lubricating device is changed as shown in Table 1, and the yarn is bundled and lubricated to give 0.9% by weight of an oil agent, and then interlaced with an interlace nozzle. Processing was performed.

Next, a first godet roller (first GR)
After changing the conditions of the second godet roller (second GR) and the focusing and refueling position as shown in Table 1, stretching, winding,
A 37d / 24f low-shrink yarn made of PET;
A 74d / 48f mixed-shrink mixed yarn with a 37d / 24f highly shrinkable yarn formed of a copolymerized polyester was obtained. The number of turns of the first GR and the second GR is 6.5 times,
The GR temperature was 98 ° C. (constant). In addition, the elongation of each of the mixed fibers was in the range of 36 to 40%.

[0028]

[Table 1]

After weaving the obtained hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber with a warp and a weft, the fabric is relaxed and scoured in boiling water for 5 minutes, dry heat treatment in the relaxed state at 190 ° C. for 5 minutes, 100 ° C.
20% by weight of woven fabric with 3% by weight aqueous sodium hydroxide solution
, And then dyed with ordinary polyester. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the physical properties and texture of the obtained hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn.

[0030]

[Table 2]

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 show the effect of the spinning speed. Examples 1 to 3 aim at the feeling of pure silk, and the finished woven fabric is a comparative fabric ( It was almost the same as A) and exhibited a very good feeling.

In Comparative Example 1, the spinning speed was 2,400 despite the sufficient shrinkage of BW (%) and HS (%).
m / min, the shrinkage after forming the fabric was not sufficient, and the feeling was extremely poor. In addition, the same applies to Comparative Example 2, and although the copolymerization amount was increased,
Due to the effect of the spinning speed, the shrinkage after forming the fabric was not sufficient, and the feeling was extremely poor. Next, Examples 4 to
No. 5 aimed at a feeling of peach touch, and exhibited a good feeling similar to the comparative fabric (B) having a feeling of peach touch.

Further, Examples 6 to 7 and Comparative Example 3 show the effect of the distance between the spinneret and the convergence lubrication device.
Examples 6 and 7 exhibited a good feeling like Examples 1 to 3.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 3, since the distance between the converging and lubricating units was as long as 2.2 m, the yarn sway occurred between the spinneret and the lubricating unit, and the worcester spots were abnormally large, and the dyed spots on the fabric were abnormal. Occurred and could not be provided for the product.

Example 8 As the highly shrinkable yarn, a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 2.0 mol% of BA-EO and 4.0 mol% of IPA used in Example 1 was used. Has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.
As shown in FIG. 2, using a spinning machine that separately melts and supplies the polyester from two extruders and introduces the polyester into the same spinning pack, as shown in FIG. Polyester for low shrinkage component is discharged from the discharge hole of Y-shaped cross section.
The polyester for high shrinkage component was separately melted and discharged from the discharge hole having the mold cross section. At the position where the distance between the base surface and the converging and lubricating device was 0.8 m, lubrication and interlacing by an interlace nozzle were performed while converging left and right separately. Subsequently, the yarns are combined with the first GR and the first GR at 98 ° C.
Wound five times, wind 6.5 times on the second GR at 145 ° C., perform direct spinning and drawing at a draw ratio of 2.65, and apply PET.
A different shrinkage mixed fiber 74d / 48f consisting of a 37d / 24f low shrinkage yarn formed by the above and a 37d / 24 high shrinkage yarn formed by the copolymerized polyester was obtained. Table 3 shows the physical properties of the obtained hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber.

[0036]

[Table 3]

Next, the obtained hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is woven in a double layer using a warp and a weft, relaxed scouring for 5 minutes in boiling water, dry heat treatment at 190 ° C. for 5 minutes in a relaxed state, 100
The fabric was subjected to a 20% by weight reduction treatment with a 3% by weight aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at a temperature of 30 ° C., and then dyed with ordinary polyester.

About the obtained woven fabric, a comparative fabric (A)
As a result of comparing the hand with the feeling, the evaluation point is 7th grade, and furthermore, the low shrinkage yarn and the high shrinkage yarn are separately melted and discharged and bundled, so that the yarn has a high shrinkage yarn even in the woven fabric. Low shrinkage yarns were arranged in parallel, and the surface of the fabric exhibited a flash effect peculiar to silk, and exhibited a very good feeling with a high-class feeling.

[0039]

According to the present invention, it is possible to produce a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber by a simple process of direct spinning and drawing, and if knitting and weaving have good swelling, softness, It is possible to stably provide a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber which becomes a fabric excellent in drape property and firmness.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process chart showing one embodiment of a direct spinning and stretching apparatus used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic process chart showing another embodiment of the direct spinning and drawing apparatus used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Spinneret 2 Undrawn yarn for low shrinkage yarn 3 Undrawn yarn for high shrinkage yarn 4 Cooling device 5 Oil supply device 6 First godet roller 7 Second godet roller 8 Winding machine 9 Package 10 Interlace nozzle 11 Interlace nozzle

Claims (2)

[Claims] When producing a different shrinkage mixed fiber by a direct spin drawing method using two kinds of polyesters, 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane is used as at least a high shrinkage component. Using a copolyester of phthalocyanine and isophthalic acid, melt-discharge from different discharge holes of the same spinneret, solidify by cooling, and bundle while supplying oil to the yarn within 2 m below the spinneret. A method for producing a polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, wherein the yarn is taken up at a speed of 2,000 m / min or less by one godet roller and subsequently stretched between a first godet roller and a second godet roller. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the two kinds of polyester yarn groups melt-discharged from different discharge holes of the same spinneret are bundled while being lubricated separately, and then combined by a first godet roller. 2. The method for producing a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn according to 1.