JP5718164B2 - Structure processed yarn - Google Patents
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- JP5718164B2 JP5718164B2 JP2011127799A JP2011127799A JP5718164B2 JP 5718164 B2 JP5718164 B2 JP 5718164B2 JP 2011127799 A JP2011127799 A JP 2011127799A JP 2011127799 A JP2011127799 A JP 2011127799A JP 5718164 B2 JP5718164 B2 JP 5718164B2
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- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 79
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 40
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 37
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 27
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
- QYQADNCHXSEGJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N cyclohexane-1,1-dicarboxylate;hydron Chemical compound OC(=O)C1(C(O)=O)CCCCC1 QYQADNCHXSEGJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N terephthalic acid group Chemical group C(C1=CC=C(C(=O)O)C=C1)(=O)O KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000010419 fine particle Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000004580 weight loss Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000013585 weight reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000007933 aliphatic carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 238000011946 reduction process Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 20
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 19
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 description 13
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 13
- 230000009477 glass transition Effects 0.000 description 12
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 11
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 11
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 11
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 8
- 238000007664 blowing Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 7
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 7
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000009508 confectionery Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 229920001225 polyester resin Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000004645 polyester resin Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 5
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 4
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 208000016261 weight loss Diseases 0.000 description 4
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 3
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 3
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L barium sulfate Chemical compound [Ba+2].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O TZCXTZWJZNENPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000002425 crystallisation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000008025 crystallization Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000012760 heat stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004898 kneading Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004611 light stabiliser Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229910052814 silicon oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 230000002269 spontaneous effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 2
- PXGZQGDTEZPERC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid Chemical class OC(=O)C1CCC(C(O)=O)CC1 PXGZQGDTEZPERC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005083 Zinc sulfide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003213 activating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910000147 aluminium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013459 approach Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- QSAWQNUELGIYBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N cyclohexane-1,2-dicarboxylic acid Chemical class OC(=O)C1CCCCC1C(O)=O QSAWQNUELGIYBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XBZSBBLNHFMTEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N cyclohexane-1,3-dicarboxylic acid Chemical class OC(=O)C1CCCC(C(O)=O)C1 XBZSBBLNHFMTEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001125 extrusion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003112 inhibitor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002074 melt spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N naphthalene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=C(C(O)=O)C(C(=O)O)=CC=C21 KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium dithionite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 230000006641 stabilisation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011105 stabilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012756 surface treatment agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 1
- ISIJQEHRDSCQIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N tert-butyl 2,7-diazaspiro[4.5]decane-7-carboxylate Chemical compound C1N(C(=O)OC(C)(C)C)CCCC11CNCC1 ISIJQEHRDSCQIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005979 thermal decomposition reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003017 thermal stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005809 transesterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229910052984 zinc sulfide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- DRDVZXDWVBGGMH-UHFFFAOYSA-N zinc;sulfide Chemical compound [S-2].[Zn+2] DRDVZXDWVBGGMH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Description
本発明は、２層構造仮撚加工糸に関するものであり、詳細には濃色性に優れたスパン調の風合いを有するポリエステル仮撚加工糸に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a false twisted yarn having a two-layer structure, and specifically relates to a false false twisted yarn having a span-like texture excellent in dark color.
従来、仮撚加工糸は繊維に捲縮を与えて織物上で変形空間（すなわちスパン糸織物に見られるようなふくらみ変形）を得ることを目的としている。そして、スパン糸織物のふくらみに近づけるべくより多くの捲縮が付与されている。
しかしながら、上記した加工糸からなる織物とスパン糸織物を比較すると、１）繊維束の構造、２）構造の違いによる風合にもたらす効果、３）捲縮、の３点で基本的な違いがある。
まず１）について、スパン糸は、撚によって中心に集められた芯と、それを取り巻く各種の高さと変形量を持つ変形空間繊維（ループや毛羽繊維）とからなり、特に紡績時の撚掛けで主繊維束を横切るように浮いた繊維（以下、ワタリ繊維と呼ぶ）があり、大きな変形空間を持っている。一方、仮撚加工糸は芯のない均一な捲縮空間糸である。そして、該加工糸は織工程を容易にするために撚を掛けているが、それは通常の織工程に必要最低限度の撚（例えば、１６６ｄｔｅｘ加工糸で１５０〜２００Ｔ／Ｍ）であって、これは芯を形成するほどの撚拘束力はない。ここで、仮撚加工糸に芯を形成するほどの撚を掛けることもできるが、そのようにすると撚によって繊維が中心に集められて捲縮空間がつぶれてやせた糸になってしまうので仮撚加工糸は事実上、芯ができるほどの撚を掛けることはできない。
Conventionally, false twisted yarn is intended to crimp the fiber to obtain a deformation space on the fabric (i.e., swell deformation as seen in a spun yarn fabric). And more crimps are given so that it may approach the swelling of a spun yarn fabric.
However, when the fabric made of the above-described processed yarn is compared with the spun yarn fabric, there are three fundamental differences: 1) the structure of the fiber bundle, 2) the effect of the difference in structure, and 3) crimping. is there.
First, regarding 1), the spun yarn is composed of a core gathered at the center by twisting and deformed space fibers (loops and fluff fibers) having various heights and deformation amounts surrounding it, especially by twisting during spinning. There is a fiber that floats across the main fiber bundle (hereinafter referred to as “wading fiber”), and has a large deformation space. On the other hand, false twisted yarn is a uniform crimped space yarn without a core. The processed yarn is twisted to facilitate the weaving process, which is the minimum twist necessary for a normal weaving process (for example, 150 to 200 T / M with 166 dtex processed yarn). Has no twisting restraint force to form a core. Here, it is possible to twist the false twisted yarn so as to form a core, but doing so will cause the fibers to be gathered in the center by twisting, and the crimped space will be crushed and become a thin yarn, so the false twist In fact, the processed yarn cannot be twisted as much as the core.
つぎに２）については、スパン糸は芯を取り巻く種々の高さの変形空間繊維があり、これがスパン糸織物のふくらみ挙動を多様化し、ふくらみがあるといわれる要因をなしており、また多少ではあるが捲縮による変形もこれに寄与している。
また、スパン糸は芯とそれを取り巻くソフトな構造から、それが織物の組織の中にあっては、芯（繊維が集中している部分）が組織内の空間を作り、糸条と糸条の間は外層のソフトな部分の接触で糸条間が動き易くなっており、これがスパン糸織物にドレープ性がある要因である。かかる風合の点で重要なもう一つのことは織物とコシと張りである。すなわち、スパン糸は撚拘束によって集められた芯があり、充分なコシと張りを有するためにスパン糸織物は風合の３要素であるふくらみ、ドレープ性、コシや張りを併せ持つことができる。一方、仮撚加工糸は捲縮のみの変形空間で変形量としても貧弱であるため変形挙動が一様であり、そのために加工糸織物は風合上で充分なふくらみを持たない。また、該加工糸織物はその織組織内にあっては個々の捲縮がそれぞれに占有空間を持とうとすることから糸条間の接触を高めドレープ性に欠ける。また、コシや張りは捲縮による糸条間の接触から硬くはなるが、押しつぶそうとするときスパン糸織物に見られる芯による抵抗力がないため風合上のコシとしては充分でない。換言すると、加工糸織物は糸条の構造から風合要素であるふくらみ、ドレープ性、コシ、張りの３拍子を兼ね備えることはできない。
Next, with respect to 2), the spun yarn has deformed space fibers of various heights surrounding the core, which diversifies the bulge behavior of the spun yarn fabric, and causes the bulge. However, deformation due to crimping also contributes to this.
In addition, the spun yarn has a core and a soft structure surrounding it. If it is in the fabric structure, the core (the part where the fibers are concentrated) creates a space in the structure. During the interval, the yarns move easily due to the contact of the soft part of the outer layer, and this is a factor that the spun yarn fabric has drapeability. Another important thing in terms of such a texture is woven fabric, stiffness and tension. That is, the spun yarn has a core collected by twisting restraint, and since the spun yarn has sufficient stiffness and tension, the spun yarn woven fabric can have swell, drape, stiffness and tension, which are the three elements of texture. On the other hand, the false twisted yarn has a uniform deformation behavior because it is a deformation space with only crimps, and the deformation amount is poor. Therefore, the processed yarn fabric does not have a sufficient bulge on the texture. Further, in the processed yarn fabric, since the individual crimps tend to have occupied spaces in the woven structure, the contact between the yarns is enhanced and the drape is lacking. Further, the stiffness and tension become harder due to the contact between the yarns due to crimping, but there is no resistance due to the core seen in the spun yarn fabric when trying to crush, so it is not sufficient as a stiffness on the texture. In other words, the processed yarn fabric cannot have the triple action of bulge, drape, stiffness, and tension, which is a texture element, from the structure of the yarn.
そして、３）の捲縮であるが、スパン糸の捲縮は甘いため繊維はしなやかで織物としてしっとりしている。一方、仮撚加工糸は捲縮のみに変形空間を頼ることから非常に高捲縮であり、そのため捲縮抵抗力が強く、ごつごつとしている。
スパン糸織物と加工糸織物は以上３つの点の違いによって、スパン糸織物はこれらの要因と他の要因が重なり合った効果として優れた外観と手触りを有し、たとえば手触りは外層繊維の変形挙動、捲縮、撚によるしめの効果と不均一性が織り成したものであるが、一方、加工糸織物は一様でこれらの効果はない。
And the crimp of 3), but the crimp of the spun yarn is sweet, so the fiber is supple and moist as a woven fabric. On the other hand, false twisted yarns are very high crimps because they rely on the deformation space only for crimping, and therefore have strong crimp resistance and are rugged.
The spun yarn fabric and the processed yarn fabric are different in the above three points, and the spun yarn fabric has an excellent appearance and feel as an effect of overlapping these factors and other factors. For example, the touch is the deformation behavior of the outer layer fibers, The effect and non-uniformity of crimping and twisting due to crimping and twisting are woven, whereas the processed yarn fabric is uniform and does not have these effects.
なお、仮撚加工糸において、２種の糸条を用い、その糸長差をもたせて一方の糸条を芯部とし、他の糸を鞘部として巻き付けた芯鞘二層構造糸が多く知られている（例えば、特許文献１参照。）。
これらの糸は嵩高性を意図するものであり、このような糸からなる織物は嵩高ではあるが、スパン糸織物に比べてソフトな風合、ドレープ性、コシあるいは張り等において劣るものであり、仮撚加工糸からなるスパン糸織物風の外観と風合が望まれている。
There are many core-sheath double-layered yarns in which two types of yarn are used in false twisted yarn, and one yarn is used as a core part and the other yarn is wound as a sheath part with different yarn lengths. (For example, refer to Patent Document 1).
These yarns are intended to be bulky, and fabrics made of such yarns are bulky, but are inferior in soft texture, draping properties, stiffness, tension, etc. compared to spun yarn fabrics, The appearance and feel of a spun yarn woven fabric made of false twisted yarn are desired.
本発明の課題は、上記の従来技術の課題を解決し、スパン糸織物風の外観と風合、触感を与える２層構造仮撚加工糸を提供することである。 An object of the present invention is to provide a two-layer false twisted yarn that solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and gives the appearance, feel and feel of a spun yarn fabric.
すなわち、本発明は、二種のポリエステル糸条からなる構造加工糸であり、該ポリエステルは、ジカルボン酸成分とグリコール成分からなる共重合ポリエステルであり、該ジカルボン酸成分のうち８０モル％以上がテレフタル酸成分であり、４．０〜１２．０モル％がシクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分であり、２．０〜８．０モル％が脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分であり、かつ該グリコール成分がエチレングリコール成分を主成分とするポリエステルからなり、該糸条の糸長差 （ΔＬ／Ｌ）及びこれら糸条の合糸に加えられる仮撚数（Ｔ０）の関係が下式（Ｉ）、（ＩＩ）を満足することを特徴とする構造加工糸である。 That is, the present invention is a structurally processed yarn comprising two types of polyester yarns, and the polyester is a copolymerized polyester comprising a dicarboxylic acid component and a glycol component, and 80 mol% or more of the dicarboxylic acid component is terephthalic. An acid component, 4.0 to 12.0 mol% is a cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid component, 2.0 to 8.0 mol% is an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component, and the glycol component is mainly composed of an ethylene glycol component. It consists of polyester as a component, and the relationship between the yarn length difference (ΔL / L) of the yarn and the number of false twists (T0) added to the combined yarn of these yarns satisfies the following formulas (I) and (II) This is a structurally processed yarn characterized by that.
また本発明は、好ましくは上記ポリエステル糸条に下式（ＩＩＩ）を満足する微粒子が添加含有されていることを特徴とする構造加工糸である。 Further, the present invention is a structured yarn characterized in that the polyester yarn preferably contains fine particles satisfying the following formula (III).
そして本発明は、さらに好ましくは上記構造加工糸からなり、式（ＩＶ）を満足する実撚数にて加撚された糸条を用いてなり、かつアルカリ減量率１〜３０％のアルカリ減量加工処理が施されることで繊維表面に微細な凹凸が形成されていることを特徴とする構造加工糸織物である。 The present invention more preferably comprises the above-described structurally processed yarn, and uses a yarn twisted with an actual number of twists satisfying the formula (IV), and has an alkali weight loss rate of 1 to 30%. It is a structured yarn fabric characterized in that fine irregularities are formed on the fiber surface by being treated.
本発明によれば、常圧下で分散染料を用いて染着性が良好な構造加工糸を得ることができる。また、本発明により得られる構造加工糸織物はスパン糸織物風の外観と風合、触感を与えるものとなる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a structured yarn having good dyeability using a disperse dye under normal pressure. Further, the structured yarn fabric obtained by the present invention gives the appearance, feel and feel of a spun yarn fabric.
本発明の構造加工糸を構成する繊維は、ジカルボン酸成分とグリコール成分からなり、該ジカルボン酸成分の８０モル％以上がテレフタル酸成分であり、４．０〜１２．０モル％がシクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分であり、２．０〜８．０モル％が脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分であり、かつ該グリコール成分がエチレングリコール成分を主成分とする共重合ポリエステル重合体で構成されることが必要である。 The fiber constituting the structurally processed yarn of the present invention comprises a dicarboxylic acid component and a glycol component, wherein 80 mol% or more of the dicarboxylic acid component is a terephthalic acid component, and 4.0 to 12.0 mol% is cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid. It is a component, 2.0 to 8.0 mol% is an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component, and the glycol component is required to be composed of a copolymerized polyester polymer having an ethylene glycol component as a main component.
シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸又はそのエステル形成性誘導体（以下、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分と称することもある）及び脂肪族ジカルボン酸又はそのエステル形成性誘導体をポリエチレンテレフタレートに共重合した場合、芳香族ジカルボン酸に比べて結晶構造の乱れが小さい特徴を有しているため、高い染着率を確保しながら、耐光堅牢性にも優れた繊維を得ることができる。
シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分を共重合化することによって、ポリエステル繊維の結晶構造に乱れが生じ、非晶部の配向は低下する。そのため、分散染料の繊維内部への浸透が容易となり、分散染料の常圧可染性を向上させることが可能となる。更に、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分は芳香族ジカルボン酸に比べ結晶構造の乱れが小さいことから、耐光堅牢性にも優れたものとなる。
シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分の共重合量がジカルボン酸成分において４．０モル％未満では、繊維内部における非晶部位の配向度が高くなるため、常圧環境下での分散染料に対する染色性が不足し、目的の染着率が得られない。また、ジカルボン酸成分において１２．０モル％を超えた場合、染着率、洗濯堅牢度、耐光堅牢度など、染色性に関しては良好な品質を確保できるものの、延伸を伴わない高速紡糸手法で製糸を行った場合、樹脂のガラス転移温度が低いことと繊維内部における非晶部位の配向度が低いことによって高速捲取中に自発伸長が発生し、安定な高速曳糸性を得ることができない。好ましくは５．０〜１０．０モル％である。
シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸には、１，２−シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸、１，３−シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸、１，４−シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸の３種類の位置異性体があるが、本発明の効果が得られる点からはどの位置異性体が共重合されていても構わないし、また複数の位置異性体が共重合されていても構わない。また、それぞれの位置異性体について、シス／トランスの異性体があるが、いずれの立体異性体を共重合しても、あるいはシス／トランス双方の位置異性体が共重合されていても構わない。シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸誘導体についても同様である。
When cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof (hereinafter sometimes referred to as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid component) and aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof are copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate, crystals are produced in comparison with aromatic dicarboxylic acid. Since the structural disorder is small, a fiber excellent in light fastness can be obtained while ensuring a high dyeing rate.
By copolymerizing the cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid component, the crystal structure of the polyester fiber is disturbed, and the orientation of the amorphous part is lowered. Therefore, it becomes easy for the disperse dye to penetrate into the fiber, and the atmospheric dyeability of the disperse dye can be improved. Furthermore, since the cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid component is less disturbed in crystal structure than the aromatic dicarboxylic acid, it is excellent in light fastness.
If the copolymerization amount of the cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid component is less than 4.0 mol% in the dicarboxylic acid component, the degree of orientation of the amorphous part inside the fiber is high, so that the dyeability for disperse dyes under normal pressure environment is insufficient, The target dyeing rate cannot be obtained. If the dicarboxylic acid component exceeds 12.0 mol%, it is possible to ensure good quality in terms of dyeability such as dyeing rate, fastness to washing, fastness to light, etc., but spinning by a high-speed spinning method without stretching. In this case, the glass transition temperature of the resin is low and the degree of orientation of the amorphous part in the fiber is low, so that spontaneous elongation occurs during high-speed winding, and stable high-speed spinnability cannot be obtained. Preferably it is 5.0-10.0 mol%.
There are three types of positional isomers of cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, and 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, from the point that the effect of the present invention can be obtained. Any positional isomer may be copolymerized, and a plurality of positional isomers may be copolymerized. Further, although there are cis / trans isomers for each positional isomer, any stereoisomer may be copolymerized, or both cis / trans positional isomers may be copolymerized. The same applies to the cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid derivative.
脂肪族ジカルボン酸及びそのエステル形成性誘導体成分についてもシクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分と同様に、ポリエステル繊維の結晶構造に乱れが生じ、非晶部の配向が低下するため、分散染料の繊維内部への浸透が容易となり、分散染料の常圧可染性を向上させることが可能となる。
脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分をポリエチレンテレフタレートに共重合すると、低温セット性にも効果があり、本発明により得られる繊維を織編物にしてから形態安定化のために熱セットする場合、熱セット温度を低くすることが可能となる。ニット用途において低温セット性は好ましい物性であり、ウール、綿、アクリル、ポリウレタン等のポリエステル以外の素材と複合する場合、熱セットに必要な温度をポリエステル以外の素材の物性が低下しない程度に抑えることが可能となる。また、ポリエステル繊維の単独使いにおいても、一般的な現行ニット用設備に対応が可能となり用途拡大が期待できる。
ジカルボン酸成分中の脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分の共重合量が２．０モル％未満では、常圧環境下での分散染料に対する染色性が不足し、目的の染着率が得られない。また、ジカルボン酸成分中の脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分の共重合量が８．０モル％を超えた場合、染着率は高くなるものの、延伸を伴わない高速紡糸手法で製糸を行った場合には繊維内部における非晶部位の配向度が低くなり、高速捲取中での自発伸長が顕著となり、安定な高速紡糸性を得ることができない。好ましくは３．０〜６．０モル％である。本発明の脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分として好ましく用いられるものとしては、発色性、製糸工程性などの点から、セバシン酸、デカンジカルボン酸などの脂肪族ジカルボン酸が例示できる。またこれらは単独又は２種類以上を併用することもできる。
As with the cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid component, the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and its ester-forming derivative component are disturbed in the crystal structure of the polyester fiber, and the orientation of the amorphous part is lowered, so that the disperse dye can penetrate into the fiber. It becomes easy and it becomes possible to improve the normal-pressure dyeability of a disperse dye.
Copolymerization of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component with polyethylene terephthalate also has an effect on low temperature setting properties, and when heat setting is performed for shape stabilization after making the fiber obtained by the present invention into a woven or knitted fabric, the heat setting temperature is lowered. It becomes possible to do. Low-temperature setability is a desirable physical property for knit applications, and when it is combined with materials other than polyester, such as wool, cotton, acrylic, and polyurethane, the temperature required for heat setting should be kept to a level that does not degrade the properties of materials other than polyester. Is possible. In addition, even when polyester fibers are used alone, it is possible to cope with general existing knit equipment, and the use can be expected to expand.
When the copolymerization amount of the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component in the dicarboxylic acid component is less than 2.0 mol%, the dyeability with respect to the disperse dye under the normal pressure environment is insufficient, and the desired dyeing rate cannot be obtained. In addition, when the copolymerization amount of the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component in the dicarboxylic acid component exceeds 8.0 mol%, the dyeing rate increases, but when the yarn is produced by a high-speed spinning method without stretching. The degree of orientation of the amorphous part inside the fiber becomes low, and spontaneous elongation during high-speed winding becomes prominent, and stable high-speed spinnability cannot be obtained. Preferably it is 3.0-6.0 mol%. Examples of the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component preferably used as the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component of the present invention include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as sebacic acid and decanedicarboxylic acid from the standpoints of color developability and yarn processability. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
本発明の構造加工糸に用いるポリエステル繊維を構成するポリエステル樹脂のガラス転移温度（Ｔｇ）及び結晶化温度（Ｔｃｈ）が下記（ａ）〜（ｃ）を満足することが好ましい。
（ａ）ガラス転移温度（Ｔｇ）：６０℃≦Ｔｇ≦８０℃
（ｂ）結晶化温度（Ｔｃｈ）：１２０℃≦Ｔｃｈ≦１５０℃
（ｃ）ΔＴ（Ｔｃｈ−Ｔｇ）：５０℃≦ΔＴ（Ｔｃｈ−Ｔｇ）≦８０℃
It is preferable that the glass transition temperature (Tg) and the crystallization temperature (Tch) of the polyester resin constituting the polyester fiber used in the structurally processed yarn of the present invention satisfy the following (a) to (c).
(A) Glass transition temperature (Tg): 60 ° C. ≦ Tg ≦ 80 ° C.
(B) Crystallization temperature (Tch): 120 ° C. ≦ Tch ≦ 150 ° C.
(C) ΔT (Tch−Tg): 50 ° C. ≦ ΔT (Tch−Tg) ≦ 80 ° C.
本発明の構造加工糸を構成するポリエステル繊維の常圧可染性や品位を落とすことのない範囲であれば、テレフタル酸成分、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸成分、及び脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分以外の他のジカルボン酸成分を共重合しても良い。具体的には、イソフタル酸やナフタレンジカルボン酸等の芳香族ジカルボン酸成分又はそのエステル形成誘導体や、アゼライン酸やセバシン酸等の脂肪族ジカルボン酸成分又はそのエステル形成誘導体を単独であるいは複数の種類を合計１０．０モル％以下の範囲で共重合化させてもよい。
しかし、これらの成分を共重合化させることでエステル交換反応、重縮合反応が煩雑になるばかりでなく、共重合量が適正範囲を超えると洗濯堅牢性を低下させることがある。具体的には、イソフタル酸およびそのエステル形成性誘導体がジカルボン酸成分に対して１０モル％を越えて共重合させると、本発明の構成要件を満足させたとしても、洗濯堅牢特性を低下させる恐れがあり、５モル％以下での使用が望ましく、さらに望ましくは０モル％であること（共重合化しないこと）がより望ましい。
Other dicarboxylic acids other than the terephthalic acid component, the cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid component, and the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component, as long as the atmospheric pressure dyeability and quality of the polyester fiber constituting the structurally processed yarn of the present invention are not reduced. The components may be copolymerized. Specifically, an aromatic dicarboxylic acid component such as isophthalic acid or naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof, an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid component such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof, alone or in a plurality of types. You may make it copolymerize in the range of a total of 10.0 mol% or less.
However, copolymerization of these components not only makes the transesterification reaction and polycondensation reaction complicated, but if the amount of copolymerization exceeds an appropriate range, washing fastness may be reduced. Specifically, when isophthalic acid and its ester-forming derivative are copolymerized in an amount exceeding 10 mol% with respect to the dicarboxylic acid component, the fastness to washing may be deteriorated even if the constituent requirements of the present invention are satisfied. It is desirable that the amount be 5 mol% or less, more desirably 0 mol% (not copolymerize).
更に、本発明の構造加工糸を構成するポリエステル繊維には、それぞれ、酸化チタン、硫酸バリウム、硫化亜鉛などの艶消剤、リン酸、亜リン酸などの熱安定剤、あるいは光安定剤、酸化防止剤、酸化ケイ素などの表面処理剤などが添加剤として含まれていてもよい。酸化ケイ素を用いることで、得られる繊維は、減量加工後に繊維表面に微細な凹凸を付与することができ、後に織編物にした場合に濃色化が実現される。更に、熱安定剤を用いることで加熱溶融時やその後の熱処理における熱分解を抑制できる。また、光安定剤を用いることで繊維の使用時の耐光性を高めることができ、表面処理剤を用いることで染色性を高めることも可能である。 Furthermore, the polyester fibers constituting the structurally processed yarn of the present invention include matting agents such as titanium oxide, barium sulfate, and zinc sulfide, thermal stabilizers such as phosphoric acid and phosphorous acid, light stabilizers, and oxidation agents. An inhibitor, a surface treatment agent such as silicon oxide, and the like may be included as additives. By using silicon oxide, the resulting fiber can impart fine irregularities to the fiber surface after weight reduction processing, and darkening is realized when it is later made into a woven or knitted fabric. Furthermore, thermal decomposition during heat melting or subsequent heat treatment can be suppressed by using a heat stabilizer. Moreover, the light resistance at the time of use of a fiber can be improved by using a light stabilizer, and it is also possible to improve dyeability by using a surface treating agent.
これら添加剤は、ポリエステル樹脂を重合によって得る際に、重合系内にあらかじめ加えておいても良い。ただし、一般に酸化防止剤などは重合末期に添加するほうが好ましく、特に重合系に悪影響を与える場合や、重合条件下で添加剤が失活する場合はこちらが好ましい。一方、艶消剤、熱安定剤などは重合時に添加するほうが均一に樹脂重合物内に分散しやすいため好ましい。 These additives may be added in advance to the polymerization system when the polyester resin is obtained by polymerization. However, it is generally preferable to add an antioxidant or the like at the end of the polymerization, and this is preferable particularly when the polymerization system is adversely affected or when the additive is deactivated under the polymerization conditions. On the other hand, matting agents, heat stabilizers, and the like are preferably added at the time of polymerization because they are easily dispersed uniformly in the resin polymer.
本発明の構造加工糸に用いるポリエステル繊維を構成するポリエステル樹脂は、固有粘度０．６〜０．７であるが、好ましくは０．６２〜０．６８、より好ましくは０．６３〜０．６６である。固有粘度が０．７を上回ると、繊維化時の高速紡糸性が著しく乏しくなる。また、紡糸が可能であり、目標の染着率が得られた場合においても、筒編染色生地で染色斑や筋が発生したり織編物の風合いが劣るなど、得られた織編繊維の表面品位が低下し衣料用として好ましくない。また、固有粘度が０．６を下回ると紡糸中に断糸しやすく生産性が乏しくなるばかりでなく、得られた繊維の強度も低いものとなる。更に、紡糸が可能であり、目標の染着率が得られた場合においても、筒編染色生地で染色斑や筋が発生したり織編物の風合いが劣るなど、得られた織編繊維の表面品位が低下し衣料用として好ましくない。 The polyester resin constituting the polyester fiber used for the structured yarn of the present invention has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.6 to 0.7, preferably 0.62 to 0.68, more preferably 0.63 to 0.66. It is. When the intrinsic viscosity exceeds 0.7, the high-speed spinnability at the time of fiberization becomes extremely poor. In addition, even when spinning is possible and the target dyeing rate is obtained, the surface of the obtained woven or knitted fiber, such as dyeing spots or streaks occurring on the tube knitted dyed fabric, or the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is inferior The quality is lowered, which is not preferable for clothing. On the other hand, when the intrinsic viscosity is less than 0.6, not only is the fiber easily cut during spinning, but the productivity is poor, and the strength of the obtained fiber is low. Furthermore, even if spinning is possible and the target dyeing rate is obtained, the surface of the obtained woven or knitted fiber, such as dyeing spots or streaks occurring on the cylindrical knitted fabric, or the texture of the woven or knitted fabric is inferior The quality is lowered, which is not preferable for clothing.
本発明の二種のポリエステル糸条は、破断伸度差を有する製造方法であれば任意に設定することが可能である。 The two types of polyester yarns of the present invention can be arbitrarily set as long as they are production methods having a difference in elongation at break.
本発明の製造方法の紡糸工程において、ポリエステル樹脂は通常の溶融紡糸装置を用いて口金より紡出する。また、口金の形状や大きさによって、得られる繊維の断面形状や径を任意に設定することが可能である。 In the spinning step of the production method of the present invention, the polyester resin is spun from a die using a normal melt spinning apparatus. Moreover, it is possible to arbitrarily set the cross-sectional shape and diameter of the obtained fiber depending on the shape and size of the die.
次に、本発明のポリエステル樹脂は、例えば単軸押出機や二軸押出機を用いて溶融混練する。溶融混練する際の温度は、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸及び脂肪族ジカルボン酸の共重合量によって異なるが、斑なく安定に溶融混練し且つ安定な製糸性や品位を得るためには、ポリマーの融点から３０〜６０℃高い温度範囲で溶融押出するのが好ましく、２０〜５０℃高い温度範囲とすることがより好ましい。
更に、混練設備を通過してから紡糸頭に至るまでの間の溶融温度についても、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸及び脂肪族ジカルボン酸の共重合量によって異なるため一概に特定はできないが、溶融斑なく安定な状態で紡出させ、且つ安定な製糸性や品位を得るためには、ポリマーの融点から３０〜６０℃高い温度範囲で溶融押出するのが好ましく、２０〜５０℃高い温度範囲とすることがより好ましい。
Next, the polyester resin of the present invention is melt kneaded using, for example, a single screw extruder or a twin screw extruder. The temperature at the time of melt-kneading varies depending on the copolymerization amount of cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid and aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, but in order to obtain stable yarn-making property and quality stably without unevenness, the melting point of the polymer is 30 to 30 It is preferable to perform melt extrusion in a temperature range higher by 60 ° C, and more preferably in a temperature range higher by 20 to 50 ° C.
Furthermore, the melting temperature from passing through the kneading equipment until reaching the spinning head also cannot be specified because it differs depending on the copolymerization amount of cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid and aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, but it is stable without melting spots. In order to obtain a stable spinning property and quality, it is preferable to melt-extrude in a temperature range 30 to 60 ° C. higher than the melting point of the polymer, and more preferably 20 to 50 ° C. .
本発明のポリエステル糸条の製造方法について一例を以下に示す。一方の破断伸度の短いほうの糸条については、上記によって溶融紡出したポリエステル繊維を、一旦そのガラス転移温度以下の温度、好ましくはガラス転移温度よりも１０℃以上低い温度に冷却する。この場合の冷却方法や冷却装置としては、紡出したポリエステル繊維をそのガラス転移温度以下に冷却できる方法や装置であればいずれでもよく特に制限されないが、紡糸口金の下に冷却風吹き付け筒などの冷却風吹き付け装置を設けておいて、紡出されてきたポリエステル繊維に冷却風を吹き付けてガラス転移温度以下に冷却するのが好ましい。その際に冷却風の温度や湿度、冷却風の吹き付け速度、紡出糸条に対する冷却風の吹き付け角度などの冷却条件も特に制限されず、口金から紡出されてきたポリエステル繊維を繊維の揺れなどを生じないようにしながら速やかに且つ均一にガラス転移温度以下にまで冷却できる条件であればいずれでもよい。そのうちでも、冷却風の温度を２０℃〜３０℃、冷却風の湿度を２０％〜６０％、冷却風の吹き付け速度を０．４〜１．０ｍ／秒として、紡出繊維に対する冷却風の吹き付け方向を紡出方向に対して垂直にして紡出したポリエステル繊維の冷却を行うのが、高品質のポリエステル繊維を円滑に得ることができるので好ましい。また、冷却風吹き付け筒を用いて前記の条件下で冷却を行う場合は、紡糸口金の直下にやや間隔を空けてまたは間隔を空けないで、長さが約８０〜１２０ｃｍ程度の冷却風吹き付け筒を配置するのが好ましい。 An example is shown below about the manufacturing method of the polyester yarn of this invention. On the other hand, for the yarn having the shorter breaking elongation, the polyester fiber melt-spun by the above is once cooled to a temperature below its glass transition temperature, preferably 10 ° C. or more lower than the glass transition temperature. The cooling method or cooling device in this case is not particularly limited as long as it is a method or device that can cool the spun polyester fiber to its glass transition temperature or lower, but a cooling air blowing tube or the like under the spinneret. It is preferable that a cooling air blowing device is provided, and cooling air is blown to the spun polyester fiber to cool it to a glass transition temperature or lower. At that time, the cooling conditions such as the temperature and humidity of the cooling air, the blowing speed of the cooling air, and the blowing angle of the cooling air to the spun yarn are not particularly limited, and the polyester fiber spun from the base is swayed in the fiber. Any condition may be used as long as it can be promptly and uniformly cooled down to the glass transition temperature or less while preventing the occurrence of. Among them, the cooling air is sprayed on the spinning fiber by setting the cooling air temperature to 20 ° C. to 30 ° C., the cooling air humidity to 20% to 60%, and the cooling air blowing speed to 0.4 to 1.0 m / sec. Cooling the spun polyester fiber with the direction perpendicular to the spinning direction is preferable because high-quality polyester fiber can be obtained smoothly. In addition, when cooling is performed under the above-described conditions using a cooling air blowing cylinder, a cooling air blowing cylinder having a length of about 80 to 120 cm is provided with a slight gap or no gap immediately below the spinneret. Is preferably arranged.
次に、より効率的な生産性で且つ安定した品位の延伸糸を得る方法として、紡出後に一旦ガラス転移温度以下に糸条を冷却した後、引き続いてそのまま直接加熱帯域、具体的にはチューブ型加熱筒などの装置内を走行させて延伸熱処理し給油後に３５００〜５５００ｍ／分の速度で捲取ることで延伸糸を得ることができる。加熱工程における加熱温度は延伸しやすい温度、すなわちガラス転移温度以上で融点以下の温度が必要であり、具体的にはガラス転移温度よりも３０℃以上高いことが好ましく、５０℃以上高いことがより好ましい。また融点よりも２０℃以上低いことが好ましく、３０℃以上低いことがより好ましい。これにより、冷却工程においてガラス転移温度以下に冷えた糸条が加熱装置で加熱されることで分子運動を促進活発化し延伸を行う。 Next, as a method for obtaining a stretched yarn with more efficient productivity and stable quality, after spinning, the yarn is once cooled below the glass transition temperature, and then directly heated to the heating zone, specifically a tube. A drawn yarn can be obtained by running in a device such as a mold heating cylinder, drawing and heat-treating, and taking off at a speed of 3500 to 5500 m / min after refueling. The heating temperature in the heating step needs to be a temperature at which stretching is easy, that is, a temperature not lower than the glass transition temperature but not higher than the melting point, specifically, preferably 30 ° C. or higher than the glass transition temperature, more preferably 50 ° C. or higher. preferable. Moreover, it is preferable that it is 20 degreeC or more lower than melting | fusing point, and it is more preferable that it is 30 degreeC or more lower. As a result, the yarn cooled below the glass transition temperature in the cooling step is heated with a heating device, thereby promoting and activating the molecular motion.
油剤は加熱装置による延伸処理工程通過後に付与する。これにより油剤による延伸断糸が少なくなる。油剤としては通常ポリエステルの紡糸に用いられるものであれば制限はない。給油方法としてはギヤポンプ方式によるオイリングノズル給油またはオイリングローラー給油のいずれでもよい。ただし、紡糸速度が高速化するにつれて前者の方式の方が糸条に斑無く、安定した油剤付着が可能である。油剤の付着量については特に制限はなく、断糸や原糸毛羽の抑制効果と織編物の工程に適した範囲であれば適宜調節しても良い。
そのうちでも、油剤の付着量を０．３〜２．０質量％とすることが高品質のポリエステル繊維を円滑に得ることができるので好ましく、０．３〜１．０質量％とすることがより好ましい。
The oil agent is applied after passing through the stretching treatment step using a heating device. Thereby, the stretched yarn by an oil agent decreases. The oil agent is not limited as long as it is usually used for spinning polyester. The oiling method may be either oiling nozzle oiling or oiling roller oiling by a gear pump system. However, as the spinning speed is increased, the former method is free from unevenness on the yarn, and stable oil adhesion is possible. There are no particular restrictions on the amount of oil to be adhered, and it may be appropriately adjusted as long as it is in a range suitable for the effect of suppressing yarn breakage and raw yarn fluff and the process of knitting and knitting.
Among them, it is preferable to set the amount of oil to be adhered to 0.3 to 2.0% by mass because a high-quality polyester fiber can be obtained smoothly, and more preferably 0.3 to 1.0% by mass. preferable.
そして、上述した一連の工程からなる延伸したポリエステル繊維を、３５００〜５５００ｍ／分で引き取ることが必要であり、引き取り速度４０００〜５０００ｍ／分であることがより好ましい。ポリエステル繊維の引き取り速度が３５００ｍ／分未満の場合は生産性が低下し、また加熱帯域において繊維の延伸が十分に行われなくなり、得られるポリエステル繊維の機械的物性が低下する。引き取り速度が５５００ｍ／分を超えた場合は安定な高速紡糸性が得られにくく、また加熱帯域において繊維の延伸が十分に行われなくなり、得られるポリエステル繊維の機械的物性が低下する。 And it is necessary to take up the stretched polyester fiber which consists of a series of processes mentioned above at 3500-5500 m / min, and it is more preferable that it is a take-up speed of 4000-5000 m / min. When the take-up speed of the polyester fiber is less than 3500 m / min, the productivity is lowered, and the fiber is not sufficiently drawn in the heating zone, and the mechanical properties of the resulting polyester fiber are lowered. When the take-up speed exceeds 5500 m / min, it is difficult to obtain a stable high-speed spinnability, and the fiber is not sufficiently drawn in the heating zone, and the mechanical properties of the resulting polyester fiber are lowered.
本発明のもう一方の破断伸度の長いほうの糸条について、上記によって溶融紡出したポリエステ
ル繊維を巻取り速度１９００ｍ／ｍｉｎ〜３５００ｍ／ｍｉｎで巻き取ることで未延伸を得る。
With respect to the yarn having the longer elongation at break of the present invention, the polyester fiber melt-spun as described above is wound up at a winding speed of 1900 m / min to 3500 m / min to obtain undrawn.
このようにして得られた二種類のポリエステル繊維の糸条から構造加工糸を製造する。
本発明の構造加工糸は二種の糸条の糸長差（ΔＬ／Ｌ）およびこれら糸条の合糸に加えられる仮撚数（Ｔ０）の関係が下式（Ｉ）、（ＩＩ）を満足することが重要である。
A structured yarn is produced from the two types of polyester fiber yarns thus obtained.
In the structurally processed yarn of the present invention, the relationship between the yarn length difference (ΔL / L) of two types of yarn and the number of false twists (T0) added to the combined yarn of these yarns is expressed by the following formulas (I) and (II): It is important to be satisfied.
本発明の構造加工糸において第１の重要な要件は織物の変形挙動に関する繊維束の構成要件であり、糸長差（ΔＬ／Ｌ）と捲縮およびトルクが主要件である。一般に、糸長差（長い繊維と短い繊維の長さの差を短い繊維の長さで割った値）は大きければ大きいほど繊維束表面に浮いたループを形成し、それが保有する変形空間も大きい。
本発明の構造加工糸における第２の重要な要件は捲縮であり、捲縮が緻密で数が多いと繊維束表面に浮いたループ繊維は自己の強い捲縮で縮み繊維束表面近くに集まり、小さな変形空間しか持たなくなる。また、それによって織物表面変化も乏しく、強い捲縮力で織物表面がごつごつする。また、甘い捲縮であると、伸縮性は小さく繊維束表面の遠いところまで浮く繊維が多く発生し、大きな変形空間を保有し、かかる甘い捲縮と相まってしなやかでしっとりとしたスパン風の触感を与える。
本発明の構造加工糸における第３の重要な要件はトルク効果であり、通常仮撚加工糸として実施されている仮撚数は（２４００〜２５００）×（１６６／Ｄ０）０．５（Ｔ／Ｍ）であり、この領域で得られる仮撚加工糸は高捲縮で低トルク糸である。一方、仮撚数を下げていくと捲縮は甘くなり高トルク糸が得られる。そして、この領域で加工された繊維が繊維束表面にあるとき（長さの長い繊維）、その繊維自身の高トルクでねじれを生じ、このねじれが高さの高い（保有する変形空間の大きい）ループを作り、またスパン糸に見られるような繊維束を横切って浮く繊維形態にする。それ故、スパン糸に見られるワタリ繊維をより多く得ようとする場合、高捲縮側では低トルクであるために糸長差をより多くして自由度を高める必要があるが、低捲縮側では高トルクであるため容易にワタリ繊維を得ることができる。しかしながら、仮撚数が極端に小さく、例えば１２００×（１６６／Ｄ０）０．５（Ｔ／Ｍ）以下では捲縮が甘すぎて実用性に欠けるので適当でない。本発明において、変形空間を多く有し、かつスパン糸の風合や形態を得る繊維束としては、上式（Ｉ）、（ＩＩ）の仮撚数と糸長差（ΔＬ／Ｌ）が必要であることが見出された。
二種の糸条の糸長差（ΔＬ／Ｌ）およびこれら糸条の合糸に加えられる仮撚数（Ｔ０）の関係が下式（Ｉ）、（ＩＩ）を満足しない場合、狙いとするしなやかでしっとりとしたスパン風の触感風合いが得られない問題がある。
好ましくは、１３５０×（１６６／Ｄ０）０．５≦Ｔ０≦２１００×（１６６／Ｄ０）０．５（Ｔ／Ｍ）で加工された繊維束である。
In the structured yarn of the present invention, the first important requirement is the constituent requirement of the fiber bundle related to the deformation behavior of the fabric, and the main items are the yarn length difference (ΔL / L), crimp and torque. In general, the larger the yarn length difference (the difference between the length of the long fiber and the length of the short fiber divided by the length of the short fiber), the larger the loop that floats on the surface of the fiber bundle. large.
The second important requirement in the structurally processed yarn of the present invention is crimping. When the crimps are dense and numerous, loop fibers floating on the surface of the fiber bundle shrink due to their own strong crimps and gather near the fiber bundle surface. , It will have only a small deformation space. In addition, the change in the surface of the fabric is scarce, and the surface of the fabric becomes rough with a strong crimping force. In addition, if it is a sweet crimp, the stretchability is small, and many fibers float to the far side of the fiber bundle surface, and it has a large deformation space, combined with such a sweet crimp, giving a supple and moist spanty feel. give.
The third important requirement in the structured yarn of the present invention is the torque effect, and the number of false twists usually implemented as false twisted yarn is (2400-2500) × (166 / D0) 0.5 (T / M), and the false twisted yarn obtained in this region is a high crimp and low torque yarn. On the other hand, when the number of false twists is lowered, the crimp becomes sweet and a high torque yarn is obtained. When the fiber processed in this region is on the surface of the fiber bundle (a long fiber), the fiber itself is twisted with a high torque, and the twist is high (the deformation space held is large). Make a loop and form a fiber that floats across the fiber bundle as seen in spun yarn. Therefore, when trying to obtain more wading fibers found in the spun yarn, it is necessary to increase the degree of freedom by increasing the yarn length difference because of the low torque on the high crimp side. Since the torque is high on the side, it is possible to easily obtain a wading fiber. However, the number of false twists is extremely small. For example, if it is 1200 × (166 / D0) 0.5 (T / M) or less, the crimp is too sweet and lacks practicality. In the present invention, the fiber bundle having many deformation spaces and obtaining the texture and form of the spun yarn requires the number of false twists and the yarn length difference (ΔL / L) in the above formulas (I) and (II). It was found that
If the relationship between the yarn length difference (ΔL / L) of the two types of yarn and the number of false twists (T0) added to the combined yarn of these yarns does not satisfy the following formulas (I) and (II) There is a problem that a supple and moist spanish feel cannot be obtained.
Preferably, it is a fiber bundle processed with 1350 × (166 / D0) 0.5 ≦ T0 ≦ 2100 × (166 / D0) 0.5 (T / M).
また本発明の構造加工糸を構成するポリエステル糸条には、下式（ＩＩＩ）を満足する微粒子が添加含有されていることが好ましい。下式（ＩＩＩ）が０．０２２未満であると安定な紡糸工程、安定な仮撚工程、さらにしなやかな触感が得られない問題があり、３．５より大きいと紡糸工程、仮撚工程性が悪化する問題がある。 Moreover, it is preferable that the polyester yarn constituting the structurally processed yarn of the present invention contains fine particles satisfying the following formula (III). If the following formula (III) is less than 0.022, there is a problem that a stable spinning process, a stable false twisting process, and a supple tactile feel cannot be obtained. There is a problem that gets worse.
さらに本発明は、式（ＩＶ）を満足する実撚数にて加撚された糸条で構成される構造加工糸を用いてなり、かつアルカリ減量率１〜３０％のアルカリ減量加工処理が施されることで繊維表面に微細な凹凸が形成されていることを特徴とする構造加工糸織物であることが好ましい。 Furthermore, the present invention uses a structurally processed yarn composed of yarns twisted with an actual twist number satisfying the formula (IV), and is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment with an alkali weight loss rate of 1 to 30%. Thus, the structured yarn fabric is preferably characterized in that fine irregularities are formed on the fiber surface.
次に本発明を具体的に実施例で説明するが、本発明はこれら実施例に限定されるものではない。なお実施例中の部及び％はことわりのない限り質量に関するものである。 EXAMPLES Next, although an Example demonstrates this invention concretely, this invention is not limited to these Examples. In the examples, “part” and “%” relate to mass unless otherwise specified.
＜染色方法及び発色性評価＞
得られた繊維の織物を精練した後、以下の条件で染色し、還元洗浄をした後、発色性評価を実施した。
（染色）
染料：Ｄｉａｎｉｘ ＮａｖｙＢｌｕｅ ＳＰＨ ｃｏｎｃ５．０％ｏｍｆ
助剤：Ｄｉｓｐｅｒ ＴＬ：1.0cc/1、ＵＬＴＲＡ ＭＴ−Ｎ２：1.0cc／1
浴比：１／５０
染色温度×時間：９５〜１００℃×４０分
（還元洗浄）
水酸化ナトリウム：１．０ｇ／Ｌ
ハイドロサルファイトナトリウム：１．０ｇ／Ｌ
アミラジンＤ：１．０ｇ／Ｌ
浴比：１／５０
還元洗浄温度×時間：８０℃×２０分
[発色性評価]
官能試験により、最も発色性の良好な◎から最も劣る×まで4段階で評価した。
◎:非常に優れている
○：優れている
△：やや不良
×：不良
<Dyeing method and color development evaluation>
The obtained fiber fabric was scoured, dyed under the following conditions, reduced and washed, and then evaluated for color development.
(staining)
Dye: Dianix NavyBlue SPH conc 5.0% omf
Auxiliary agent: Disper TL: 1.0cc / 1, ULTRA MT-N2: 1.0cc / 1
Bath ratio: 1/50
Dyeing temperature x time: 95-100 ° C x 40 minutes (reduction washing)
Sodium hydroxide: 1.0 g / L
Hydrosulfite sodium: 1.0 g / L
Amiradine D: 1.0 g / L
Bath ratio: 1/50
Reduction cleaning temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes
[Color evaluation]
According to the sensory test, the evaluation was made on a scale of 4 from the most excellent color developability ◎ to the worst color x.
◎: Very good ○: Excellent △: Somewhat bad ×: Bad
［繊維化工程性評価］
１００ｋｇの繊維を紡糸する際に、何回断糸するかによって、次のように評価した。
○：３回以内／１００ｋｇ
△：４回〜７回／１００ｋｇ
×：８回以上／１００ｋｇ
[Evaluation of fiber processability]
Depending on how many times the fiber was cut when spinning 100 kg of fiber, the evaluation was as follows.
○: Within 3 times / 100kg
Δ: 4-7 times / 100 kg
×: 8 times / 100kg
［織物の風合評価］
スパン糸の風合いでソフト感、ハリコシ感については官能試験により、最もスパン糸風のでソフト感、ハリコシ感の良好な◎から最も劣る×まで4段階で評価した。
◎:非常に優れている
○：優れている
△：やや不良
×：不良
[Texture evaluation of fabrics]
The feeling of softness and harshness in the texture of the spun yarn was evaluated by a sensory test in four grades, from ◎ with the softness and harshness of the most spun yarn style to る which was the worst.
◎: Very good ○: Excellent △: Somewhat bad ×: Bad
実施例１
表１記載の共重合ポリエステルを用い、一方の糸条は、孔数３６個で丸断面形状の口金を用いて紡糸温度２６０℃、単孔吐出量＝１．５７ｇ／分で紡出し、温度２５℃、湿度６０％の冷却風を０．５ｍ／秒の速度で紡出糸条に吹付け糸条を６０℃以下にした後、紡糸口金下方１．２ｍの位置に設置した長さ１．０ｍ、入口ガイド系８ｍｍ、出口ガイド系１０ｍｍ、内径３０ｍｍφチューブヒーター（内温１８５℃）に導入してチューブヒーター内で延伸した後、チューブヒーターから出てきた糸条にオイリングノズルで給油し２個の引き取りローラーを介して４５００ｍ／分の速度で捲取り、１１０ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆのポリエステルフィラメントを得た。もう一方の糸条は、同一の共重合ポリエステルを用いて紡糸速度３０００ｍ／分の捲取りにより１１０ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆの未延伸糸を得た。これら、2種の糸条を引き揃えて、加熱温度は１７０℃、１６８０Ｔ／ Ｍの仮撚数で延伸同時仮撚を実施し、２１０ｄｔｅｘ／７２ｆの2層構造仮撚加工糸を得た。糸長差△Ｌ／Ｌは０．０８であった。これに撚り数５００Ｔ／Ｍ（Ｚ撚り）の撚りを掛け経糸、緯糸として平織物にした。得られた平織物に対し染色加工を実施したところ、発色性、スパン調風合いに優れるものであった。
Example 1
Using one of the polyesters listed in Table 1, one yarn was spun at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. and a single hole discharge rate of 1.57 g / min using a die having a number of holes of 36 and a round cross section, and a temperature of 25 A length of 1.0 m is set at a position 1.2 m below the spinneret after the cooling yarn of 60 ° C. and humidity of 60% is blown onto the spun yarn at a speed of 0.5 m / sec. The inlet guide system is 8 mm, the outlet guide system is 10 mm, the inner diameter is 30 mm, introduced into a tube heater (inner temperature 185 ° C.) and stretched in the tube heater, and then the yarn that has come out of the tube heater is lubricated with an oiling nozzle. The polyester filament of 110 dtex / 36f was obtained by picking up at a speed of 4500 m / min through a take-up roller. For the other yarn, an undrawn yarn of 110 dtex / 36 f was obtained by using the same copolymerized polyester and taking up a spinning speed of 3000 m / min. These two types of yarns were aligned and subjected to simultaneous simultaneous twisting at a heating temperature of 170 ° C. and a false twist number of 1680 T / M to obtain a 210 dtex / 72 f two-layer false twisted yarn. The yarn length difference ΔL / L was 0.08. This was twisted with a twist number of 500 T / M (Z twist) to obtain a plain woven fabric as warp and weft. When the obtained plain woven fabric was dyed, it was excellent in color developability and span tone texture.
実施例２
共重合成分と変性量を表１に示す通り変更した以外は実施例１と同様に実施し、２１０ｄｔｅｘ／７２ｆの2層構造仮撚加工糸を得た。糸長差△Ｌ／Ｌは０．０８であった。これに撚り数５００Ｔ／Ｍ（Ｚ撚り）の撚りを掛け経糸、緯糸として平織物にした。得られた平織物に対し染色加工を実施したところ、発色性、スパン調風合いに優れるものであった。
Example 2
The same procedure as in Example 1 was conducted except that the copolymerization component and the amount of modification were changed as shown in Table 1, and a two-layer structure false twisted yarn of 210 dtex / 72f was obtained. The yarn length difference ΔL / L was 0.08. This was twisted with a twist number of 500 T / M (Z twist) to obtain a plain woven fabric as warp and weft. When the obtained plain woven fabric was dyed, it was excellent in color developability and span tone texture.
実施例３
共重合成分と変性量を表１に示す通り変更し、さらに一方の糸条は紡糸速度３６００ｍ／分で、もう一方の糸条は２８００ｍ／分の１１０ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆの未延伸糸を得た。これら、２種の糸条を引き揃えて、加熱温度は１６０℃、１３５０Ｔ／Ｍの仮撚数で延伸同時仮撚を実施し、１５０ｄｔｅｘ／７２ｆの2層構造仮撚加工糸を得た。糸長差△Ｌ／Ｌは０．０７であった。得られた仮撚加工糸で構成される平織物は発色性、スパン調風合いに優れるものであった。
Example 3
The copolymerization component and the amount of modification were changed as shown in Table 1, and an undrawn yarn of 110 dtex / 36f with a spinning speed of 3600 m / min for one yarn and 2800 m / min for the other yarn was obtained. These two types of yarns were aligned and subjected to simultaneous simultaneous twisting at a heating temperature of 160 ° C. and a false twist number of 1350 T / M to obtain a two-layer structure false twisted yarn of 150 dtex / 72 f. The yarn length difference ΔL / L was 0.07. The plain woven fabric composed of the obtained false twisted yarn was excellent in color developability and span tone texture.
比較例1〜３
共重合成分と変性量を表１に示す通り変更した以外は実施例１と同様に実施し、2層構造仮撚加工糸を得た。糸長差△Ｌ／Ｌは０．０５以下であった。仮撚加工糸で構成される平織物は発色性が特に劣るものとなり、さらにスパン調風合いに劣るものであった。
Comparative Examples 1-3
Except having changed the copolymerization component and the modification amount as shown in Table 1, it carried out similarly to Example 1, and obtained the false twisted yarn of 2 layer structure. The yarn length difference ΔL / L was 0.05 or less. A plain woven fabric composed of false twisted yarn has particularly inferior color developability and inferior span tone texture.
本発明によれば、常圧下で分散染料を用いて染着性が良好な構造加工糸を得ることができる。また本発明により得られる構造加工糸織物はスパン糸織物風の外観と風合、触感を与えるものとなる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a structured yarn having good dyeability using a disperse dye under normal pressure. Moreover, the structurally processed yarn fabric obtained by the present invention gives the appearance, feel and feel of a spun yarn fabric.
Claims (3)
該糸条の糸長差（ΔＬ／Ｌ）が０．０５より大きく、０．１４０６２５以下である、構造加工糸。
A structured yarn having a yarn length difference (ΔL / L) of greater than 0.05 and less than or equal to 0.140625.
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| JPS6011130B2 (en) * | 1979-07-09 | 1985-03-23 | 帝人株式会社 | Composite processing method |
| JPH0657564A (en) * | 1992-08-03 | 1994-03-01 | Toray Ind Inc | Compound false-twisted processed yarn having silky wool feeling and its production |
| JPH07189036A (en) * | 1993-12-24 | 1995-07-25 | Kuraray Co Ltd | Polyester conjugate fiber |
| JP3916276B2 (en) * | 1996-08-26 | 2007-05-16 | 帝人ファイバー株式会社 | Method for producing lightweight lash-like processed yarn |
| JP3295359B2 (en) * | 1996-11-25 | 2002-06-24 | 三菱レイヨン株式会社 | Method for producing modified polyester fiber |
| US6399194B1 (en) * | 1999-09-28 | 2002-06-04 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Polypropylene terephthalate twisted yarn and method for producing the same |
| JP2003105630A (en) * | 2001-09-27 | 2003-04-09 | Toray Ind Inc | Drawn polyester yarn having excellent color developing property |
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