JP2002138343A - Woman garment - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester-based woman garment which has a smooth and glossy woven fabric surface, a soft hand, and a suitable stretching property. SOLUTION: This polyester-based woman garment is characterized by comprising a stretchable woven fabric which has a Metsuke (4.3560 g/m2, a weight unit) of 60 to 400 g/cm2, a woven fabric extension rate of >=15%, and an extension recovery factor of >=80% and uses as at least one of warps and wefts conjugate multi-filaments that are prepared by adhering two polyester-based polymers, one of which is a polyester consisting mainly of polytrimethylene terephthalate, to each other in a side-by-side form in the longitudinal direction of the filaments and are substantially subjected to a twisting treatment represented by the expression: K=TD1/2 wherein K=6,000 to 25,000.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester women's garment having a high soft stretch property that is comfortable when worn. More particularly, it relates to women's clothing such as blouses, pants, skirts and suits.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyesters have been widely used because they have various excellent properties including mechanical properties. In addition, it is desired that the stretch boom in recent years impart more excellent stretchability to the polyester fabric. In particular, among women's clothes, in women's clothes such as blouses, pants, skirts, suits, etc., consciousness due to ease of movement and comfort during wearing is increasing.

[0003] As means for imparting stretchability to polyester fibers, various side-by-side conjugate fibers have been proposed in addition to the use of false twisted yarns and the mixing of elastic fibers. The side-by-side type composite fiber has no rough or fuzzy feeling such as false twisted yarn, and also has a texture and drape property, such as mixing of elastic fibers such as polyurethane.
There is no problem such as inferior dyeability.

For example, JP-B-44-2504 and JP-A-4-308271 disclose polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity difference or an intrinsic viscosity difference (hereinafter referred to as "polyethylene terephthalate").
PET (abbreviated as PET);
Japanese Patent Publication No. 295634 describes a side-by-side composite yarn of non-copolymerized PET and copolymerized PET having higher shrinkage. If such a side-by-side type conjugate fiber is used, it is possible to obtain a yarn having a certain stretch property, but there is a problem that the stretch property of a woven fabric is insufficient, and it is difficult to obtain a satisfactory stretch woven fabric. Was. This is because the side-by-side type composite yarn as described above has a low crimp development ability while the fabric is constrained, or the crimp is easily set by external force. The side-by-side type composite yarn does not use the stretch property due to the expansion and contraction of the fiber itself like the polyurethane fiber, but uses the expansion and contraction of the three-dimensional coil caused by the difference in the shrinkage ratio between the composite polymers for the stretch property. Thus, for example,
It is considered that when the polymer is subjected to a heat treatment under a woven fabric constraint in which the shrinkage of the polymer is restricted, it is heat-fixed as it is, and the shrinkage ability is further lost.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Therefore, the present invention has a high soft stretch property and a recovery property which are excellent in wearing comfort and which cannot be obtained by the prior art as described above. It is an object of the present invention to provide polyester-based women's clothing having a soft texture.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In order to solve the above problems, the stretchable polyester women's garment of the present invention mainly has the following constitution.

That is, in the present invention, one is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate.
A multifilament raw yarn of a conjugate fiber obtained by laminating various types of polyester-based polymers in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction is substantially twisted, and is used as at least one of a warp and a weft. TD ^1/2 formula (where K: twisting factor, T: number of twists per meter,
D: decitex), K = 6000-2500
0 twist and the basis weight of the fabric is 60 g /
Polyester women's clothing comprising a stretchable woven fabric having a m ^{2 to} 400 g / m ² , a woven fabric elongation rate of 15% or more, and an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The stretchable polyester-based women's outer garment of the present invention uses a polyester-based side-by-side conjugate fiber for at least one of a warp and a weft.

A side-by-side type conjugate fiber is obtained by laminating polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, copolymer components, copolymerization ratios, etc., and develops a crimp due to a difference in their elastic recovery characteristics and shrinkage characteristics. In the case of a side-by-side composite having an intrinsic viscosity difference, stress is concentrated on the high intrinsic viscosity side during spinning and drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side largely shrinks due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the difference in heat shrinkage rate in the heat treatment step of the woven fabric, causing distortion within the single fiber to take a form of three-dimensional coil crimp. It can be said that the diameter of the three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length are determined by the difference in shrinkage (including the difference in elastic recovery rate) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. And the number of coils per unit fiber length increases.

The coil crimp required as a stretch material has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent elongation characteristics, good appearance), and good coil set resistance (expansion and contraction). The set amount of the coil according to the number of times is small and the stretch retention is excellent), and the hysteresis loss at the time of recovery from the extension of the coil is small (excellent elasticity and good fit). By satisfying all of these requirements and having the properties of polyester, such as moderate tension, drapability, and high color fastness, a stretch material excellent in total balance can be obtained.

Here, in order to satisfy the above-mentioned coil characteristics, characteristics of a high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) are important. Since the expansion and contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion and contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as a fulcrum, the polymer used for the high contraction component is required to have high extensibility and recoverability.

The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to satisfy the above-mentioned characteristics without impairing the characteristics of the polyester. As a result, the polyester containing polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) as a high-shrinkage component was mainly used. Was found to be used. PTT fiber is a typical polyester fiber such as polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT).
While having the same mechanical and chemical properties as fibers, it is extremely excellent in elastic recovery and elongation recovery. This is PT
In the crystal structure of T, the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol moiety has a gauche-gauche structure (the molecular chain is bent at 90 degrees), and further, the density of constraint points due to the interaction (stacking, parallel) between benzene rings is low, It is considered that the molecular chain is easily extended and recovered by the rotation of the methylene group due to its high flexibility.

Here, in the present invention, PTT is a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as a main glycol component. However, 20 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol%
It may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of not more than mol%. As copolymerizable compounds, for example, isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimeric acid, sebacic acid, dicarboxylic acids such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, diols such as butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene glycol. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments and the like as antioxidants may be added.

The low-shrinkage component (low-viscosity component) is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester having good interfacial adhesion to PTT, which is a high-shrinkage component, and a stable spinning property. However, in view of mechanical properties, chemical properties, and raw material prices, PET capable of forming fibers is preferable.

The composite ratio of the two components is determined in terms of the spinning properties and the dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction.
Low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) is preferable, and 65:35 to 45:55 is more preferable.

The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side conjugate fiber used in the present invention may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobal cross section, a flat cross section, a Dharma cross section, an X cross section or any other known cross section. From the balance between expression and hand, a semi-circular side-by-side with a round cross section, a hollow side-by-side for light weight and heat retention, and a side-by-side with a triangular cross section for dry feel are preferably used.

The fineness of the single yarn is 1.1 to 10 dtex.
And more preferably 1.1 to 6 dtex. When the content is 1.1 dtex or more, the effect of the stretching property by crimping can be obtained, and when the content is 10 dtex or less, the texture can be suppressed.

Next, the thread-like twist used for the fabric according to the women's clothing of the present invention will be described. As the thread-like twist of the present invention, K = TD ^1/2 (K: twist coefficient, twist per meter) Number, D: decitex)
The twist coefficient is K = 6000 to 25000. When the twist coefficient is 6000, it belongs to the sweet twist region, but if the yarn is 150 dtex, it means 500 T / M. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient K is 25000, it belongs to the strong twist region, but when it is 150 dtex, it corresponds to 2000 T / M twist. Twist coefficient K is 60
When it is less than 00, the drape property, the good silhouette at the time of wearing, and the feeling of falling, which are characteristics of the fabric using the twisted yarn, are poor. If the twist coefficient K is larger than 25000, the twisted wire is disturbed due to the occurrence of double twist, and the fabric using such a twisted yarn becomes extremely poor. Texture can be.

The polyester-based stretch fabric of the present invention, it is important that the fabric of basis weight is ^{60g / m 2 ~400g / m 2} . If the basis weight of the woven fabric is 60 g / m ² or less, it is too thin and is not suitable for a blouse for women. At 400 g / m ² or more, it becomes heavy clothing, pants,
Not suitable for skirts and suits.

The polyester stretch fabric of the present invention has a fabric elongation rate of at least one of
% Or more. The woven fabric elongation rate is a stretch property parameter defined by the “measurement method” in the examples.
When the elongation rate of the fabric is less than 15%, it cannot follow the expansion and contraction of the skin during exercise of the human body, and a satisfactory comfort cannot be obtained.

Further, it is important that the stretch recovery rate of the polyester stretch fabric of the present invention is 80% or more. The elongation recovery rate is a stretch property parameter defined by the “measurement method” in the examples. When the elongation recovery rate is less than 80%, as in the case of the elongation rate of the woven fabric, it cannot follow the expansion and contraction of the skin during exercise of the human body, and a satisfactory comfort cannot be obtained.

The fiber structure for women's outer garment referred to in the present invention is:
Cloths, laces and other belts, strings,
It includes all those composed of filaments and fibers. In the fabric to be constituted, a form of a woven or knitted fabric is preferable, and a non-woven fabric can also be applied. For example, in the case of a woven fabric, the fineness of the yarn is 50 to 500 dtex, and the structure is widely used for all woven structures constituting a woven fabric.

The women's clothing of the present invention has a yarn fineness of 50 to 5
It is not limited as long as it is composed of 00dtex, and the form of the clothes is preferably a blouse, pants, skirt, and suit.

A material having a particle size of less than 50 dtex is too thin, and is not preferable for a thin fabric such as a blouse. Also, 500 dt
A thread fineness exceeding ex is too thick, and is not preferable for use in thick fabrics such as pants, skirts and suits.

[0025]

The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to examples. (Measurement method) (1) Fabric elongation rate: Measured by the elongation rate A method (constant speed elongation method) of JIS L-1096. L1: After measuring L0, the L0 measurement load was removed and again 0.9 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex.
Length when hanging a load. (2) Elongation recovery rate: Measured by the elongation recovery rate A method (repeated constant-speed elongation method) of JIS L-1096. Example 1 A homo-PTT having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.40 and a homo-PET having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 were separately melted, and a composite ratio (from a composite spinneret having 24 holes at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C.) was obtained. (Weight%) 50:50, spinning speed 1400m
An undrawn yarn having a side-by-side composite structure of 24 filaments (having a fiber cross-section of substantially semicircular shape) having a drawing of 165 dtex and 24 filaments was obtained. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate stretching machine (yarn length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3S), the film is stretched at a hot roll temperature of 75 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 170 ° C., a draw ratio of 3.3 times, and then taken off once. Without rewinding, take up at 0.9x continuously, 55dtex, 2
A 4-filament drawn yarn was obtained. Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability, and no yarn breakage occurred.

As the warp, two side-by-side type composite fibers obtained were twisted at a twist number of 100 t / m to form a 110 dtex.
As the weft, three side-by-side type composite fibers 55 decitex were aligned and twisted at 500 t / m. The twist coefficient was 6,400. The fabric of 2/2 twill structure is 109 × 60 /
Weaved at a greige density of 2.54 cm.

The obtained greige was opened at 95 ° C. with an open soaper.
After the heat treatment, drying was carried out, and the resulting product was set at 180 ° C. in the middle of dry heat and dyed at 120 ° C. Then, it was finished and set by dry heat of 160 ° C. by a pin tenter method. The density of the finished fabric was 145 × 75 / 2.54 cm in the process. The basis weight of the woven fabric was 112 g.

As a result of the sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric has no grain, is smooth, glossy, and has a soft texture.
The woven fabric had a soft stretch in the weft direction.
Also, as a result of measuring the woven fabric elongation, the warp direction was 20% and the weft direction was 25%. 87% growth recovery
Met. Example 2 Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, the density of the greige was 74 × 56 / 2.5 on a water jet loom.
A 4 cm plain weave fabric was woven. Twist coefficient is 6400
Met.

The obtained greige was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. Finish density is 95 × 68
Book / 2.54 cm. The fabric weight is 85 g / m
^{Was 2} .

As a result of the sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric had no grain, was smooth and glossy, and had a soft texture. Further, as a result of measuring the stretch ratio of the woven fabric, the warp direction was 17% and the weft direction was 22%. The elongation recovery was 83%. Example 3 The weft used in Example 1 was used for a warp and a weft, and the density of a greige machine was 118 × 77 / weft on a water jet loom.
A 2.54 cm 2/1 twill fabric was woven.

Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a polyester stretch fabric. The weaving coefficient was 6,400. The density of the finished fabric was 150 × 82 / 2.54 cm. The basis weight of the woven fabric was 127 g / m ² .

As a result of a sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric had no grain, was smooth, glossy, and had a soft texture. The stretch ratio in the weft direction of this woven fabric was 22%. The elongation recovery rate was 90%. Comparative Example 1 A drawn yarn of 55 dtex of PET was used as the warp, and Example 1 was used.
Weaved according to the same standard. The twist factor was the same as 6400.

The obtained greige was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The basis weight of the woven fabric was 110 g / m ² . As a result of measuring the stretch rate of the fabric, the warp direction is 2%, the weft direction is 3%,
The elongation recovery rate was 50%, which was not satisfactory. Comparative Example 2 Using the same green fabric as that obtained in Comparative Example 1, relax heat treatment was performed at a processing temperature of 95 ° C. using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and thereafter, the same dyeing processing as in Example 1 was performed.

As a result, large grain was generated, and the quality of the fabric was inferior. Further, the woven fabric had stretchability, which was derived from the structure of the grain. Comparative Example 3 For both the warp and the weft, three twisted yarns of 1000 t / m were twisted using a 55 dtex drawn yarn of PET and 165.
Used as dtex, woven fabric of 2/2 twill structure with water jet loom, 89 × 60 / 2.54 cm
Weaving with a density of greige. The twist coefficient was 12845.

The obtained greige was treated with a jet dyeing machine at a treatment temperature of 9
Relax heat treatment was performed at 5 ° C., and thereafter, the same dyeing processing as in Example 1 was performed. Finish density is 119 × 7
6 / 2.54 cm. Fabric weight is 97 g / m
^{Was 2} .

As a result of measuring the elongation rate of the obtained woven fabric, the warp direction was 22%, the weft direction was 25%, and the elongation recovery rate was 82%. However, although the surface of the woven fabric was relatively smooth, the surface of the woven fabric was not glossy, sharp, and did not have the smoothness, gloss, and soft texture intended by the present invention.

[0037]

According to the present invention, a polyester women's garment which has high soft stretchability and recoverability excellent in wearing comfort, has no grain on the surface, and has a gloss, smooth touch, and soft texture. Can be provided.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) // D01F 8/14 D01F 8/14 BF Term (Reference) 4L041 AA07 BA09 BC17 CA06 CA08 DD01 4L048 AA21 AA22 AA30 AA46 AA47 AA51 AA55 AB07 AB11 AB12 AC12 BA01 BA02 CA00 CA04 CA12 CA15 DA01 EA01

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A multifilament yarn of a conjugate fiber in which two kinds of polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, is bonded in a side-by-side type along a fiber length direction. Twisting is used for at least one of a warp and a weft, and the yarn is an equation of K = TD1 ^/ 2 (where K is a twist coefficient,
T: number of twists per meter, D: decitex), K = 6000-25000 twists are applied, and the basis weight of the fabric is 60 g / m ² -400 g / m ² ,
The fabric elongation rate is 15% or more, and the elongation recovery rate is 80%
A polyester women's garment comprising a woven fabric having the above-mentioned stretch properties. 2. The stretchable polyester-based women's garment according to claim 1, wherein the fineness of the yarn constituting the woven fabric of the garment is 50 to 500 decitex (hereinafter referred to as dtex).