JP2002004147A - Crepe woven fabric and method for manufacturing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a crepe woven fabric having large ridges with in surface ruggedness in warp and weft directions, and to provide a method producing the crepe woven fabric. SOLUTION: The crepe fabric has the following structure: a warp and a weft are constructed with a yarn A having twists of a twist coefficient of 15,000-32,000 and a yarn B having twists of a twist coefficient of 3,500-12,000, respectively; the warp and weft are arranged in such a state where 1-4 threads of the yarn A and 1-4 threads of the yarn B exist repeatedly; and under the state of woven fabric, the yarn length ratio of the yarn A to the yarn B in longitude and latitude directions is 3-10. Further, the crepe fabric is produced as follows: a yarn A having twists of a twist coefficient of 15,000-32,000 and having a thermal stress of >=4 g, and a yarn B having twists of a twist coefficient of 3,500-12,000 and having a thermal stress of <=0.5 g are used as a warp and a weft, respectively; the warp and weft are woven in a state that they are arranged so that 1-4 threads of the yarn A and 1-4 threads of the yarn B exist repeatedly; and they are subjected to a dyeing and a creping treatment in a liquid of 100-130 deg.C.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a textured fabric having a textured surface in the weft direction and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, crepe fabrics such as georgette and decine crepe, and Yangyan weave fabrics having a longitudinal ridge have been produced in a wide variety of grain fabrics. For example, in the case of the former, usually one or two strong twisted yarns in the SZ direction are alternately woven into the weft or weft, and have a surface texture with a delicate unevenness with little SZ torque directionality. The latter case is characterized in that a single-twisted strong twist yarn is woven in the weft direction and has a relatively strong surface texture of about several to ten and several mm in the warp direction.

[0003] Further, a greige machine in which fiber yarns having large heat shrinkage are interwoven at a low ratio of 1/4 to 1/5 of the surface structure is embossed on the back surface structure of the double structure. A method for producing a crimped fabric is proposed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 48-93762, which is limited to a double structure, and has a plaid-like blistered fabric rather than a squeezed-like fabric. It is a product, and does not provide a crimped fabric having large ridges rich in surface unevenness in the longitudinal direction.

[0004] Further, in view of the recent diversification of tastes, there is a need for a fabric having a textured surface that has never been seen before. A method for obtaining such a fabric having a textured surface has been proposed in, for example, JP-A-57-154432. The method that has been
By using two types of strong twisted yarns and defining these ratios, a composite crimped woven fabric having both a crepe-like grain and a crepe-like grain is obtained, but with a rich surface unevenness in the weft direction. It does not provide a textured fabric with large ridges.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems in the conventional grain fabric, and to provide a grain fabric having large ridges rich in surface unevenness in the longitudinal direction. An object of the present invention is to obtain such a textured fabric.

[0006]

According to the present invention, there are provided a warp and a weft comprising 1 to 4 yarns A1 and 4 and a yarn B1 to satisfy the following formulas (1) to (4).
(1) 15,000 ≦ KA1 ≦ 32000 (2) 3500 ≦ KB1 ≦ 12000 (3) 3 ≦ L (W) ≦ 10 (4) 3 ≦ L (F) ≦ 10 (where KA1 is the twist coefficient of the yarn A constituting the fabric,
KB1 is the twist coefficient of the yarn B constituting the woven fabric, L (W) is the yarn length ratio of the yarn A and the yarn B constituting the warp, and L (F) is the yarn A and the yarn constituting the weft. B) and the following formula:
(5) Use the yarn A and the yarn B satisfying (9) as a warp and a weft, and use the warp and the weft as A1-4 yarns and the yarn B1 respectively.
The woven fabric arranged in a repetition of four side-by-side arrangements is 100-
A method for producing a textured fabric, wherein the fabric is dyed and embossed in a liquid at a temperature of 130 ° C. (5) 15000 ≦ KA2 ≦ 32000 (6) 3500 ≦ KB2 ≦ 12000 (7) 3.5 g ≦ F (A) −F (B) ≦ 25 g (8) F (A) ≧ 4 g (9) F (B) ≦ 0.5 g (where KA2 is the twist coefficient of yarn A, KB2 is the twist coefficient of yarn B, F (A) is the maximum value of thermal stress in the yarn A, and F (B) is the twist value of yarn B. Is the maximum value of thermal stress)

[0007]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The grain fabric of the present invention has a twist coefficient K
The warp yarn and the weft yarn need to be composed of the yarn A having a twist of A1 of 15,000 or more and 32,000 or less and the yarn B of the twist having a twist coefficient KB1 of 3500 or more and 12000 or less. Twist factor KA1 is 150
If it is less than 00, the crimping as a crimped woven fabric is insufficient, and 3
If it exceeds 2,000, the texture of the grain fabric becomes hard. When the twist coefficient KB1 of the yarn B is less than 3500, fluffing of a single fiber occurs on the surface of the woven fabric, and when it exceeds 12,000,
The textured fabric has a hard texture.

The twist coefficient K in the present invention is the twist number T
(Twice / m) and fineness D (decitex (dtex)) are calculated by the following equation: twist coefficient K = T√D.

In particular, in order for the crimped fabric of the present invention to be a crimped fabric having large ridges rich in surface unevenness in the weft direction, a yarn length ratio L of the yarn A and the yarn B constituting the warp in the fabric is required.
(W) and the yarn length ratio L (F) of the yarn A and the yarn B constituting the weft in the woven fabric need to be in the range of 3 to 10 respectively, and the yarn length ratio L (W), If the yarn length ratio L (F) is less than 3,
The unevenness in the longitudinal and weft directions is insufficient, and it does not exhibit sufficient grain,
If the yarn length ratio L (W) and the yarn length ratio L (F) exceed 10, there is a sense of unevenness in the warp and weft directions, but there is too much lifting of one of the yarns, causing problems in physical properties such as snagging. I do.

[0010] The yarn length ratio L of yarn A and yarn B constituting the warp
(W) is a sample of the crimped fabric of the present invention sampled 15 cm in the warp direction, and marked at 10 cm intervals in the warp direction, and the fabric length L
Then, the warp is separated into yarn A and yarn B, and a load of fineness D (dtex) × 1/10 g is applied to each of yarn A and yarn B, and yarn A, which has been previously marked in a woven state, The lengths LA and LB of the respective intervals of the yarn B are measured, and can be obtained from the following equation: L (W) = (LB−LA) × 100 / L. The yarn length ratio L (F) of the yarn A and the yarn B constituting the weft yarn is also 15
cm sampling and similarly determined.

The grain fabric of the present invention is required to be a fabric having a structure in which warp and weft are arranged in a repetition of an arrangement of 1 to 4 yarns A1 and 1 to 4 yarns B, respectively. In particular, in order to express grain fabric in a solid color, A1
It is preferable that the arrangement is the same as the arrangement of two and the same number of yarns B1 and B2. When one of the yarn A and the yarn B is a woven fabric in which the arrangement of more than four or both of them is arranged in a repetition of the arrangement of more than four, the crimping property is reduced, and the yarn A and the yarn B Since it looks like a soccer pattern or a check pattern due to a difference in yarn length and color, etc., the woven fabric has poor versatility.

In the crimped fabric of the present invention, preferred examples of the fiber constituting the yarn A include a polyester multifilament yarn or a polyester multifilament composite yarn, and preferred examples of the fiber constituting the yarn B are: Examples thereof include a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn or a cellulose acetate multifilament composite yarn.

When the yarn A is made of a polyester multifilament yarn or a polyester multifilament composite yarn, fluff, yarn breakage and the like hardly occur, and the handleability and dimensional stability are excellent. When the yarn B is composed of a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn or a cellulose acetate multifilament composite yarn, a crimped woven fabric having excellent gloss color development with an appropriate dry touch is obtained.

In the present invention, the polyester multifilament composite yarn is a mixed yarn of a polyester multifilament and a synthetic fiber filament such as polyamide filament, a regenerated fiber filament such as rayon or cupra, a semi-synthetic fiber filament such as cellulose acetate, or the like. The term “ply-twisted yarn” means a composite false-twisted yarn of cellulose acetate multi-filament composite yarn composed of cellulose acetate multi-filament and synthetic fiber filaments such as polyester filaments and polyamide filaments, and regenerated fiber filaments such as rayon and cupra.

Further, when the yarn B is composed of a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn or a cellulose acetate multifilament composite yarn, or when the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the yarn A contains a cellulose acetate filament, the ratio of the cellulose acetate filament to the grain fabric is Is preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, since a crimped fabric having a suitable dry touch based on cellulose acetate filaments and a high glossy coloring property is obtained. If the ratio of cellulose acetate filaments is less than 30% by weight, cellulose acetate filaments Effect becomes insufficient.

A typical example of the polyester multifilament yarn preferably used in the present invention is a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn. The cellulose acetate multifilament yarn preferably used has an average acetylation degree of 48.8-5.
A 6.2% cellulose diacetate multifilament yarn and a cellulose triacetate multifilament yarn having an acetylation degree of 56.2 to 62.5% are exemplified.

Further, when the polyester multifilament yarn is a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn or a thick polyester multifilament yarn, or when it is a composite yarn with rayon filament, etc., further, the cellulose acetate multifilament yarn is cationically dyeable. In the case of a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn having dyeability, by applying any combination of these to warp and / or weft, a chambray sheave fabric or It is possible to express a more versatile appearance such as a twisted yarn heat-treated crimped fabric and a kasuri-like appearance crimped fabric. Further, other kinds of fibers for pattern cutting may enter the ground of the grain fabric of the present invention.

Next, a method for producing the textured fabric of the present invention will be described. The crimped fabric of the present invention has a twist coefficient KA2 of 15
2,000 to 32,000 twists, the twist A having a maximum value of thermal stress F (A) in the twisted yarn of 4 g or more and a twist coefficient KB2 of 3500 to 12000 inclusive, and the thermal stress F ( A yarn B having a maximum value of 0.5 g or less is used as a warp and a weft, and the warp and the weft are each a yarn A1 to A1.
It is obtained by subjecting a woven fabric woven by repeating and arranging four yarns B1 to four yarns B in a liquid at a temperature of 100 ° C. or more and 130 ° C. or less to a dye-texturing process.

When the twist coefficient KA2 of the yarn A used as the warp and the weft is less than 15,000, the crimping is sharply reduced, and when it exceeds 32,000, the yarn is entangled by the untwisting torque of the yarn. Be impaired. Further, when the twist coefficient KB2 of the yarn B used as the warp and the weft is less than 3500, the convergence of the yarn after the crimping is inferior, so that the fluff of the single fiber is easily generated on the woven fabric surface. Give the texture.

If the maximum value of the thermal stress F (A) of the twisted yarn of the yarn A is less than 4 g, the crimping in the weft direction is inferior, and the maximum value of the thermal stress F (B) of the twisted yarn of the yarn B is 0%. If it exceeds 0.5 g,
Since both the yarn A and the yarn B contribute to the contraction, the texture is reduced, and the woven fabric has a poor swelling feeling. Further, yarn A and yarn B
It is necessary that the difference in thermal stress between the twisted yarns of the yarn A and the yarn B is not less than 3.5 g and not more than 25 g. When the thermal stress difference between the yarn A and the yarn B is less than 3.5 g, the yarn A and the yarn B both contribute to shrinkage, so that the graininess is reduced, and the crimping in the weft direction is inferior. Although good, there is a problem in physical properties such as generation of snagging.

The thermal stress is a thermal stress per twisted yarn after the twisting set measured using a thermal stress tester at a heating rate of 120 seconds / 300 ° C. Indicated. In addition, the twisting set is preferably performed at a temperature as low as possible without causing any problem during weaving,
It is preferably carried out at 70 to 85 ° C.

In the method of the present invention, as described above,
As the yarn A, preferably a polyester multifilament yarn or a polyester multifilament composite yarn,
Twist and use the yarn in the state of the twisted yarn after the twisting set, and as the yarn B, preferably, a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn or a cellulose acetate multifilament composite yarn, twist the yarn and in the state of the twisted yarn after the twisting set Use thread.

In the method of the present invention, the yarn A and the yarn B
When weaving is performed using warp and weft as the warp and weft, the warp and the weft are each used as a yarn A1 in order to obtain good crimping.
Weaving is performed by arranging as a repetition of an arrangement of up to 4 yarns and 1 to 4 yarns B. In addition, in order to obtain a crimped fabric expressed in a solid color tone, it is preferable to weave in a structure in which the same number of yarns A1 and B2 and the number of yarns B1 and B2 are repeatedly arranged.

Further, in the method for obtaining the grain-textured fabric of the present invention, depending on the thermal stress and the twist coefficient of the yarn A and the yarn B used for the warp and the weft, the dyeing-texturing process is carried out at 100 to 130.
It is necessary to perform in a liquid at a temperature of ° C. In this dyeing embossing treatment, the yarn A of the warp and the weft constituting the woven fabric
Due to the difference in thermal stress and the return of twist between the yarn A and the yarn B, a difference in the heat shrinkage occurs between the yarn A and the yarn B arranged in the weft direction, and a difference in the yarn length is caused. Receiving the unevenness on the surface of the woven fabric.

In the dyeing and embossing process, when the temperature is 100
When the temperature is lower than ℃, the expression of the shrinkage difference is insufficient, so that the crimping is insufficient. When the temperature exceeds 130 ° C, the crimping is good, but the unevenness occurs. Further, in order to express the weft grain, it is preferable to suppress the tension during graining and dyeing as low as possible. The dyeing embossing treatment is preferably performed in a liquid stream in order to suppress the occurrence of embossed spots, and the dyeing embossing processing does not need to be performed only by embossing.
Either relaxation treatment prior to dyeing, dyeing can be performed at the higher temperature, or both.

[0026]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. In the examples, the crimped form of the crimped fabric was evaluated by visual observation, the width of the ridge of the fabric was measured, the texture, and the swelling were evaluated by touch.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as polyester) multifilament (33 dtex / 12 filament (f)) was twisted under the twisting conditions shown in Table 1, and a twist-set by steam at 80 ° C. The obtained yarn was used as yarn A, and a cellulose triacetate (hereinafter, triacetate) multifilament yarn (61 dtex / 15f) was twisted under the twisting conditions shown in Table 1, and the yarn that had been twisted and set at 80 ° C. with steam was used as yarn B. Used as The thermal stresses of the yarns A and B are shown in Table 1.
It was shown to.

As the warp and the weft, the yarn A and the yarn B are repeatedly arranged in the number as shown in Table 1, and the warp standard 10 is used.
0 threads / 2.54 cm (inch), weft standard 80 threads / 2.5
The fabric was woven with a flat structure of 4 cm (inch), subjected to relaxation treatment at 130 ° C. with a liquid jet dyeing machine, subjected to embossing, dyed under the following conditions, and evaluated. Dye: Dyanix TA-N 200% Black (D
2% owf Dyeing temperature: 120 ° C. Dyeing time: 60 minutes

The obtained woven fabric is 2 to 10 mm in the longitudinal direction,
It is a crimped woven fabric in which random and natural weft crimps are formed at intervals of 10 to 30 mm in the weft direction, and further has a moderate dry feeling unique to triacetate filament, and has both silky texture and glossiness, The grain fabric was suitable for use in clothing. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric.

(Comparative Examples 1-2) Using the yarns shown in Table 1, the twist coefficient, and the thermal stress, the yarn A and the yarn B were arranged in the numbers shown in Table 1 as the warp and the weft and repeated. Other than that, weaving was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, and a relaxation treatment of embossing was performed. As shown in the evaluation results in Table 2, the obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric with insufficient crimping and poor swelling.

(Examples 2 to 3) Using the yarns shown in Table 1, the twist coefficient and the thermal stress, the yarn A and the yarn B were repeatedly arranged in the numbers shown in Table 1 as warp and weft. , Warp standard 55 / 2.54 cm (inch), weft standard 55 /
Example 8: Weaving was performed on a 2.54 cm (inch) eight-piece deformed sash structure (the yarn B was arranged in a floating structure), and the woven fabric was subjected to relaxation treatment at 120 ° C. with a liquid jet dyeing machine, and then subjected to embossing. Evaluation was performed by staining under the same conditions as described above. In addition, the yarn A used the twisted yarn as shown in Table 1.

The obtained woven fabric is a crimped woven fabric in which random and natural weft crimps are formed in the weft direction with no spacing as shown in Table 2 and has an appropriate dry feeling characteristic of triacetate filaments. It has a silky texture and a glossy feeling, and is a textured fabric suitable for use in clothing. Further, in Example 3, the cupra filament contained in the ply-twisted yarn of yarn A is rendered unstained and expressed as a white residue,
The textured fabric had a mixed feeling.

(Comparative Example 3) Yarn A and Yarn B were used as warp and weft yarns using the yarns, twist coefficient and thermal stress shown in Table 1.
Was woven in a flat structure in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the repetition was arranged in the number as shown in Table 1, and a crimping and relaxation treatment was performed. As shown in Table 2, the obtained woven fabric turned into a checkered blister-shaped woven fabric, and no natural random ridges were formed in the longitudinal direction.

[0034]

[Table 1]

[0035]

[Table 2]

[0036]

The textured fabric of the present invention has an unprecedented appearance rich in surface irregularities with large ridges in the weft direction, and furthermore has an appropriate swelling, lightness, stretch and sharpness. And is suitable for use in clothing. According to the method of the present invention in which the configurations and arrangements of warp and weft yarns are taken into account, the above-mentioned crimped fabric can be easily obtained.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing from the front page (72) Inventor: Hide Omata 1-8-30 Tenmabashi, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Inside Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Osaka Branch (72) Inventor: Masaki Hashimoto 3-1-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo F-term in Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. (reference)

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A crimped fabric, wherein warp yarns and weft yarns are arranged in a repetition of an arrangement of 1 to 4 yarns A and 1 to 4 yarns B satisfying the following formulas (1) to (4). (1) 15000 ≦ KA1 ≦ 32000 (2) 3500 ≦ KB1 ≦ 12000 (3) 3 ≦ L (W) ≦ 10 (4) 3 ≦ L (F) ≦ 10 (However, KA1 is a yarn constituting a woven fabric Twisting coefficient of A,
KB1 is the twist coefficient of the yarn B constituting the woven fabric, L (W) is the yarn length ratio of the yarn A and the yarn B constituting the warp, and L (F) is the yarn A and the yarn constituting the weft. (It is the yarn length ratio of B) 2. The grain fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn A is composed of a polyester multifilament yarn or a polyester multifilament composite yarn, and the yarn B is composed of a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn or a cellulose acetate multifilament composite yarn. 3. The grain fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of cellulose acetate filaments in the fabric is 30 to 90% by weight. 4. A yarn A and a yarn B satisfying the following formulas (5) to (9) are used as a warp and a weft, and the warp and the weft are repeated in an arrangement of 1 to 4 yarns A to 1 to 4 yarns B, respectively. A method for producing a crimped woven fabric, comprising subjecting the woven fabric arranged in the above to a dyeing and crimping treatment in a liquid at a temperature of 100 to 130 ° C. (5) 15000 ≦ KA2 ≦ 32000 (6) 3500 ≦ KB2 ≦ 12000 (7) F (A) ≧ 4g (8) F (B) ≦ 0.5g (9) 3.5g ≦ F (A) −F ( B) ≦ 25g (where KA2 is the twist coefficient of yarn A, KB2 is the twist coefficient of yarn B, F (A) is the maximum value of the thermal stress in the yarn A, and F (B) is the twist yarn of the yarn B. Is the maximum value of thermal stress) 5. The yarn A is a yarn composed of a polyester multifilament yarn or a polyester multifilament composite yarn, and the yarn B is a yarn composed of a cellulose acetate multifilament yarn or a cellulose acetate multifilament composite yarn. 4
The method for producing a textured fabric according to the above.