JP2000192348A - Twisted yarn woven or knitted fabric of combined filament yarn of different shrinkage - Google Patents
Twisted yarn woven or knitted fabric of combined filament yarn of different shrinkageInfo
- Publication number
- JP2000192348A JP2000192348A JP11286316A JP28631699A JP2000192348A JP 2000192348 A JP2000192348 A JP 2000192348A JP 11286316 A JP11286316 A JP 11286316A JP 28631699 A JP28631699 A JP 28631699A JP 2000192348 A JP2000192348 A JP 2000192348A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- shrinkage
- woven
- knitted fabric
- filament yarn
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は、異収縮混繊糸の撚
糸を用いてなる優れたふくらみ及びハリ・コシを有する
織編物に関する。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having excellent swelling and firmness using a twist yarn of a different shrinkage mixed fiber.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】収縮性の異なる２種のフィラメント糸を
混繊した糸、いわゆる異収縮混繊糸を用いた織編物につ
いては、既に特許第１８３４０６７号公報、特許第２６
９５５４３号公報、特開平１１−１８１６４２号公報等
にて開示されている。これらに開示の技術における異収
縮混繊糸は、混繊糸を構成する高収縮性フィラメント糸
と低収縮性フィラメント糸の各種熱物性を規制したもの
である。2. Description of the Related Art A yarn obtained by blending two kinds of filament yarns having different shrinkages, that is, a woven or knitted fabric using a so-called different shrinkage blended yarn, has already been disclosed in Japanese Patent Nos.
95543, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-181642, and the like. The different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns in the techniques disclosed therein regulate various thermophysical properties of the high shrinkage filament yarn and the low shrinkage filament yarn constituting the mixed yarn.
【０００３】しかるに、撚糸織編物についていうなら
ば、異収縮混繊糸には撚糸後撚り止めセットが施される
ため、撚り止めセット工程で熱が加わり熱収縮性が低下
したり、撚糸によりフィラメントの移動の自由度が失わ
れることにより、異収縮混繊糸を構成する各フィラメン
ト糸の熱物性の発揮が制限を受け、目的とする十分満足
すべきふくらみ及びハリ・コシのある織編物が得られな
いという問題がある。However, in the case of a twisted woven or knitted fabric, since a different shrinkage mixed fiber is subjected to a twist setting after twisting, heat is applied in the twist setting step to reduce heat shrinkability, or the twisted yarn causes a filament to be twisted. The degree of freedom of movement of the yarn is lost, thereby limiting the thermophysical properties of each filament yarn constituting the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, and obtaining the desired swelling and knitting with satisfactory swelling and firmness. There is a problem that can not be.
【０００４】従って、異収縮混繊糸の撚糸織編物におい
ては、優れたふくらみ及びハリ・コシを得るためには、
撚糸後に撚り止めセットしたときの撚糸の状態が重要な
因子となることが予測されるが、かかる撚糸の状態での
因子については十分検討されていないのが現状である。Therefore, in order to obtain excellent swelling and firmness in a twisted woven or knitted fabric of different shrinkage mixed fibers,
It is expected that the state of the twisted yarn when twisted and set after twisting is an important factor, but at present the factors in the state of the twisted yarn have not been sufficiently studied.
【０００５】[0005]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、異収縮混繊
糸の撚糸織編物において、優れたふくらみ及びハリ・コ
シを得るために、異収縮混繊糸の撚糸後の熱セット及び
製織編後の染色仕上げでの熱の影響について検討した結
果に基づくものであり、本発明の目的は、収縮性を異に
するポリエステルフィラメント糸から構成の異収縮混繊
糸からなり、優れたふくらみ及びハリ・コシを有する撚
糸織編物を提供することにある。DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a heat setting and weaving knitting of a hetero-shrink mixed yarn in order to obtain excellent swelling and firmness in a hetero-shrink mixed yarn. The object of the present invention is based on the results of an examination of the effect of heat on the subsequent dyeing and finishing. -To provide a twisted woven or knitted fabric having a firmness.
【０００６】[0006]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明は、単繊維繊度が
２デニール以上の高収縮性ポリエステルフィラメント糸
と単繊維繊度が３デニール以下の低収縮性ポリエステル
フィラメント糸との異収縮混繊糸に撚係数Ａ（Ａ＝Ｔ・
Ｄ１／２、Ｔ：撚糸数（回／ｍ）、Ｄ：デニール）が８
０００〜２３０００の撚りが施された撚糸であって、撚
り止め熱セット後の１２５℃での乾熱収縮率が４％以
上、１２５℃での熱応力が７ｇ以上、仕上げ加工後の１
５０℃での乾熱収縮率が２％以下、１５０℃での熱応力
が３ｇ以下の撚糸にて織編物が構成されたことを特徴と
する異収縮混繊糸の撚糸織編物、にある。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a different shrinkage blended yarn of a high shrinkage polyester filament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 2 denier or more and a low shrinkage polyester filament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 3 denier or less. Twist coefficient A (A = T
D 1/2 , T: number of twisted yarns (twice / m), D: denier) is 8
2,000 to 23,000 twisted yarn, having a dry heat shrinkage of 4% or more at 125 ° C. after twisting heat setting, a thermal stress of 7 g or more at 125 ° C., and a finish of 1% after finishing.
A woven or knitted fabric of different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns, characterized in that the woven or knitted fabric is composed of a stranded yarn having a dry heat shrinkage at 50 ° C. of 2% or less and a thermal stress at 150 ° C. of 3 g or less.
【０００７】[0007]
【発明の実施の形態】本発明における異収縮混繊糸は、
高収縮性ポリエステルフィラメント糸（以下、単に高収
縮性フィラメント糸という）と、低収縮性ポリエステル
フィラメント糸（以下、単に低収縮性フィラメント糸と
いう）とから構成される。高収縮性フィラメント糸とし
ては、高熱収縮性の、好ましくは沸水収縮率が１０〜５
０％、より好ましくは１５〜５０％の高収縮性糸が挙げ
られる。また高収縮性フィラメント糸は、単繊維繊度が
２デニール以上であることが織編物にハリ・コシを得る
うえで必要である。BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
It is composed of a high-shrinkage polyester filament yarn (hereinafter simply referred to as a high-shrinkage filament yarn) and a low-shrinkage polyester filament yarn (hereinafter simply referred to as a low-shrinkage filament yarn). The highly shrinkable filament yarn has high heat shrinkage, preferably 10 to 5 boiling water shrinkage.
0%, more preferably 15 to 50% of high shrinkable yarn. The high shrinkable filament yarn must have a single fiber fineness of 2 denier or more in order to obtain firmness and firmness in the woven or knitted fabric.
【０００８】高収縮性フィラメント糸が２種のポリマー
よりなるコンジュゲート糸であるときには、ストレッチ
性のある織編物を得ることができる。コンジュゲート糸
を構成する２種のポリマーとしては、紡糸時の固有粘度
の差で０．１００以上あるポリエステルポリマー同士の
組み合わせであることが好ましく、２種のポリマーの比
率は３０〜７０：７０〜３０であることが好ましい。When the highly shrinkable filament yarn is a conjugate yarn composed of two kinds of polymers, a stretchable woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. The two polymers constituting the conjugate yarn are preferably a combination of polyester polymers having an intrinsic viscosity difference of 0.100 or more during spinning, and the ratio of the two polymers is preferably 30 to 70:70 to It is preferably 30.
【０００９】また、低収縮性フィラメント糸は、低熱収
縮性または熱伸長性のフィラメント糸であり、特に織編
物としたときのスナッギングやピリングの発生を抑え、
またふくらみを得るたうえから、好ましくは沸水収縮率
が−３〜５％、フィラメントの複屈折率が２０〜１７０
×１０−３の低収縮性糸が挙げられる。低収縮性フィラ
メント糸が複屈折率２０×１０−３未満では、ポリエス
テル繊維織編物に適用されるアルカリ減量加工において
低収縮性フィラメント糸が脆化し、１７０×１０−３を
超えると、低収縮性フィラメント糸の製糸過程で毛羽を
発生する。フィラメントの複屈折率が２０〜１７０×１
０−３というのは、この範囲であれば複屈折率がフィラ
メントの長さ方向に変化してもよく或いは一定であって
もよい。また収縮性フィラメント糸は、単繊維繊度が３
デニール以下であることが織編物にソフト感を得るうえ
で必要である。The low-shrinkage filament yarn is a low heat-shrinkable or heat-extensible filament yarn, and particularly suppresses the occurrence of snagging and pilling when formed into a woven or knitted fabric.
In addition, after obtaining swelling, the shrinkage ratio of boiling water is preferably -3 to 5%, and the birefringence of the filament is preferably 20 to 170.
× 10 −3 low shrinkage yarns. The low shrinkage filament yarn is less than the birefringence 20 × 10 -3, low shrinkage filament yarns are brittle in the caustic process to be applied to the polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric, exceeds 170 × 10 -3, low shrinkage Fluff is generated during the filament yarn production process. The birefringence of the filament is 20-170 × 1
0 -3 since the birefringence This range may be a good or constant changes in the length direction of the filament. The shrinkable filament yarn has a single fiber fineness of 3
It is necessary that the woven or knitted fabric has a denier or less in order to obtain a soft feeling.
【００１０】高収縮性フィラメント糸及び低収縮性フィ
ラメント糸は、エチレンテレフタレート単位主体のポリ
エステル、即ちポリエチレンテレフタレート或いはイソ
フタル酸、アジピン酸等の第三成分が共重合された共重
合ポリエチレンテレフタレートから構成される。また、
高収縮性フィラメント糸と低収縮性フィラメント糸の少
なくとも一方が、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸等
のスルホン酸金属塩基含有の第三成分が共重合された共
重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートから構成されたカチオ
ン染料可染性糸であってもよく、カチオン染料可染性糸
であるときには多色表現可能な織編物を与える。The high shrinkage filament yarn and the low shrinkage filament yarn are composed of a polyester mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units, ie, polyethylene terephthalate or a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate in which a third component such as isophthalic acid or adipic acid is copolymerized. . Also,
At least one of the high shrinkable filament yarn and the low shrinkage filament yarn is dyeable with a cationic dye comprising a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing a third component containing a metal sulfonate such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. The woven or knitted fabric which can be expressed in multiple colors is provided when the yarn is a dyeable cationic dyeable yarn.
【００１１】また、高収縮性フィラメント糸と低収縮性
フィラメント糸の少なくとも一方がカチオン染料可染性
糸であるときは、織編物に杢調の外観を与え、特に、高
収縮性フィラメント糸と低収縮性フィラメント糸の両方
がカチオン染料可染性糸であるときは、かかる構成の異
収縮混繊糸の撚糸を通常の分散染料可染のポリエステル
フィラメント糸と組み合わせメランジ調の外観や柄組織
の織編物となる。When at least one of the high shrinkable filament yarn and the low shrinkage filament yarn is a dye dyeable with a cationic dye, the woven or knitted fabric is given a heather-like appearance. When both of the shrinkable filament yarns are dyeable with cationic dye, the twisted yarn of different shrinkage mixed fiber having such a structure is combined with a polyester filament yarn dyeable with normal disperse dye to obtain a melange-like appearance and texture of a pattern structure. It becomes a knit.
【００１２】また、低収縮性フィラメント糸のアルカリ
減量率が高収縮性フィラメント糸の１〜１５倍であるこ
とが好ましく、低収縮性フィラメント糸のアルカリ減量
率が高収縮性フィラメント糸の１倍未満、即ち高収縮性
フィラメント糸の減量率が低収縮性フィラメント糸より
大きくなると、織編物のアルカリ減量加工において糸強
度低下が生じ、またハリ・コシが失われ、また低収縮性
フィラメント糸のアルカリ減量率が高収縮性フィラメン
ト糸の１５倍を超えると、織編物のアルカリ減量加工に
おいて減量率制御が極めて困難になるだけでなく、低収
縮性フィラメント糸自体の消失を招く危険がある。It is preferable that the alkali shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage filament yarn is 1 to 15 times that of the high shrinkage filament yarn, and the alkali shrinkage ratio of the low shrinkage filament yarn is less than 1 times that of the high shrinkage filament yarn. That is, if the weight loss rate of the high shrinkage filament yarn is larger than that of the low shrinkage filament yarn, the yarn strength is reduced in the alkali weight reduction processing of the woven or knitted fabric, the firmness / stiffness is lost, and the alkali weight loss of the low shrinkage filament yarn is reduced. When the rate exceeds 15 times that of the high shrinkable filament yarn, not only is it extremely difficult to control the weight loss rate in the alkali weight reduction processing of the woven or knitted fabric, but there is a risk that the low shrinkage filament yarn itself may be lost.
【００１３】本発明における異収縮混繊糸は、高収縮性
フィラメント糸と低収縮性フィラメント糸とを、任意の
混繊手段、例えば合糸撚糸する方法、或いはインターレ
ース加工、流体攪乱処理加工等のエアを用いて流体噴射
処理する方法等により混繊して得る。The different shrinkage mixed yarn in the present invention may be formed by mixing a high shrinkage filament yarn and a low shrinkage filament yarn by any mixing means, for example, a method of twisting a twisted yarn, an interlacing process, a fluid disturbance processing process and the like. It is obtained by mixing fibers by a method of performing fluid injection treatment using air or the like.
【００１４】本発明において、異収縮混繊糸は、撚係数
Ａ（Ａ＝Ｔ・Ｄ１／２、Ｔ：撚糸数（ 回／ｍ）、Ｄ：
デニール）が８０００〜２３０００の撚りが施された撚
糸とすることが必要である。撚係数Ａが８０００未満で
は、フィラメント間の拘束力の不足により織編物とした
ときに、ハリ・コシに欠けるものとなり、撚係数Ａが２
３０００を超えると、フィラメント間の拘束力が強すぎ
ふくらみに欠けるものとなる。In the present invention, the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn has a twist coefficient A (A = T · D 1/2 , T: the number of twisted yarns (times / m), D:
(Denier) is required to be a twisted yarn having a twist of 8000 to 23000. When the twist coefficient A is less than 8000, when the woven or knitted fabric is formed due to insufficient binding force between the filaments, it lacks firmness and elasticity, and the twist coefficient A is 2
If it exceeds 3,000, the binding force between the filaments is too strong and lacks swelling.
【００１５】異収縮混繊糸は、熱を受けたときに、構成
フィラメント糸の各熱特性に基づく収縮挙動の違いによ
り、高収縮性フィラメント糸が収縮することによって混
繊糸の芯側に配されとともに、僅かな収縮若しくは伸長
する低収縮性フィラメント糸が相対的に混繊糸の外側に
配され、芯側の収縮したフィラメント束により主にハリ
・コシを、外側のフィラメントにより主にふくらみを発
現し、織編物としたときに、織編物にふくらみ及びハリ
・コシを与える。The heat-shrinkable mixed yarn is arranged on the core side of the mixed-shrink yarn by being shrunk due to a difference in shrinkage behavior based on each thermal characteristic of the constituent filament yarns when subjected to heat. At the same time, a low-shrinkage filament yarn that slightly shrinks or elongates is relatively disposed outside the mixed yarn, and the core-side shrunk filament bundle mainly provides firmness and the outer filament mainly bulges. When expressed and formed into a woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted fabric gives swelling and firmness.
【００１６】しかしながら、かかる異収縮混繊糸を撚糸
織編物とするときには、良好に製織或いは製編するため
には、撚糸後に熱を加えての撚り止めセットが必須であ
り、通常、５００回／ｍ以上の中撚や強撚では、糸のト
ルク力によるビリの発生を防止するため、７０〜９０℃
の湿熱下で撚り止め熱セットが行われる。従って、原糸
の異収縮混繊糸の段階では、その構成成分である高収縮
性フィラメント糸と低収縮性フィラメント糸とがそれぞ
れの熱特性を発揮するものであっても、撚り止め熱セッ
ト後の撚糸の段階でそれぞれの熱特性が発揮されなけれ
ば、目的とするふくらみ及びハリ・コシを有する織編物
が得られない。[0016] However, when such a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is formed into a twisted woven or knitted fabric, in order to satisfactorily weave or knit, a twist-stopping set by applying heat after twisting is indispensable. m or more in the case of medium twist or strong twist, 70-90 ° C to prevent the occurrence of twisting due to the torque force of the yarn.
The twist setting heat setting is performed under the wet heat of. Therefore, at the stage of the hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn of the original yarn, even if the high shrinkage filament yarn and the low shrinkage filament yarn, which are the constituents thereof, exhibit their respective thermal characteristics, even after the twist setting heat setting, If the respective thermal properties are not exhibited at the stage of the twisting, the woven or knitted fabric having the desired swelling and firmness cannot be obtained.
【００１７】本発明においては、撚り止め熱セット後の
撚糸の１２５℃での乾熱収縮率が４％以上、１２５℃で
の熱応力が７ｇ以上である撚糸にて織編物が構成される
ことを要件とする。撚り止め熱セット後の撚糸の１２５
℃での乾熱収縮率が４％未満、１２５℃での熱応力が７
ｇ未満では、満足すべきふくらみ及びハリ・コシを有す
る織編物を得ることができない。In the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is composed of a twisted yarn having a dry heat shrinkage at 125 ° C. of 4% or more and a thermal stress at 125 ° C. of 7 g or more after the twist setting heat setting. Is required. 125 of twisted yarn after twisting heat setting
The dry heat shrinkage at 4 ° C. is less than 4% and the thermal stress at 125 ° C. is 7%.
If it is less than g, a woven or knitted fabric having satisfactory swelling and firmness cannot be obtained.
【００１８】撚り止め熱セットされた撚糸は、公知の製
織手段或いは製編手段により織物或いは編物にされる。
織物を例にすれば、例えばウオータージェットルーム、
エアージェットルーム、レピアルーム等により製織され
る。ウオータージェットルームによる製織される場合、
製織上がりの生機は乾燥されるが、その乾燥温度は、撚
り止め熱セットでの温度より低い温度であり、乾燥工程
で異収縮混繊糸撚糸の高収縮性フィラメント糸と低収縮
性フィラメント糸とのそれぞれの熱特性が発揮されるこ
とはない。The twisted yarn that has been heat set is turned into a woven or knitted fabric by a known weaving means or knitting means.
Taking fabric as an example, for example, a water jet loom,
Weaved by air jet loom, rapier loom, etc. If weaving by water jet loom,
The woven fabric after weaving is dried, but the drying temperature is lower than the temperature in the twist setting heat set, and in the drying process, the high shrinkage filament yarn and the low shrinkage filament yarn of the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn are twisted. Are not exhibited.
【００１９】製織或いは製編された織編物は、精練・リ
ラックス、乾燥リラックス、中間セット、アルカリ減量
加工、染色、或いはさらに樹脂仕上げ、仕上げセット等
の仕上げ加工が施される。精練・リラックスは、１２０
〜１３０℃の高圧液中でフリーの状態で行われ、また染
色は、織編物の構成フィラメント糸の染色性にもよる
が、通常１２０〜１３０℃の高圧液中で行われることか
ら、織編物を構成する撚り止め熱セットされた異収縮混
繊糸撚糸中の高収縮性フィラメント糸が大きく収縮し、
低収縮性フィラメント糸が僅かに収縮若しくは伸長する
という各構成フィラメント糸の熱特性を発揮させるに
は、織編物が最初に高温に曝され、フリーな状態になる
精練・リラックス工程で行うことが好ましい。The woven or woven or knitted fabric is subjected to scouring / relaxation, drying / relaxing, intermediate setting, alkali weight reduction processing, dyeing, or further finishing processing such as resin finishing and finishing set. 120 for scouring and relaxation
The dyeing is carried out in a free state in a high-pressure liquid of up to 130 ° C., and the dyeing is usually carried out in a high-pressure liquid of 120 to 130 ° C., depending on the dyeing property of the constituent filament yarns of the woven or knitted fabric. The highly shrinkable filament yarn in the twist-set heat-set different shrinkage mixed yarn twists greatly shrinks,
In order to exhibit the thermal characteristics of the constituent filament yarns, in which the low-shrinkage filament yarn slightly shrinks or elongates, it is preferable to perform the scouring / relaxation step in which the woven or knitted fabric is first exposed to a high temperature and becomes free. .
【００２０】また、本発明においては、仕上げ加工後の
撚糸の１５０℃での乾熱収縮率が２％以下、１５０℃で
の熱応力が３ｇ以下の撚糸にて織編物が構成されること
を要件とする。染色加工後の撚糸の１５０℃での乾熱収
縮率が２％を超え、１５０℃での熱応力が３ｇを超える
と、仕上げ加工後の織編物に熱収縮性が残留し、縫製の
プレスセットで収縮が生じ、寸法安定に欠けた織編物と
なる。Further, in the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is constituted by a twisted yarn having a dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C. of 2% or less and a thermal stress at 150 ° C. of 3 g or less of the twisted yarn after finishing. Requirements. If the dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C. of the twisted yarn after dyeing exceeds 2% and the thermal stress at 150 ° C. exceeds 3 g, heat shrinkage remains in the finished woven or knitted fabric, and the sewing press set Causes shrinkage, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric lacking in dimensional stability.
【００２１】本発明の撚糸織編物は、製織或いは製編後
の仕上げ加工の工程で織編物を構成する異収縮混繊糸の
撚糸での各構成フィラメント糸の熱特性が十分に発揮さ
れ、優れたふくらみ及びハリ・コシを有しており、しか
も異収縮混繊糸を構成するフィラメント糸がカチオン染
料可染性糸であるときには、優れた視覚上の外観効果を
を呈する。The twisted woven or knitted fabric of the present invention exhibits sufficient thermal properties of the constituent filament yarns in the twisted hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric in the finishing process after weaving or knitting. When the filament yarn which has swelling and firmness, and which constitutes the hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn is a cationic dye dyeable yarn, an excellent visual appearance effect is exhibited.
【００２２】[0022]
【実施例】以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明す
る。なお、実施例における評価項目の測定は、以下の方
法に拠った。The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. In addition, the measurement of the evaluation item in an Example was based on the following method.
【００２３】〔乾熱収縮率〕ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０１３に準拠
し、試料糸を乾熱１２５℃、１５０℃でそれぞれ熱処理
したときの糸長手方向の収縮率を測定した。なお、１５
０℃での乾熱収縮率は仕上げ加工後の織編物から張力が
かからないように抜き取った糸で測定した。[Dry heat shrinkage rate] According to JIS L1013, the shrinkage rate in the yarn longitudinal direction when the sample yarn was heat-treated at 125 ° C and 150 ° C, respectively, was measured. Note that 15
The dry heat shrinkage at 0 ° C. was measured on a yarn extracted from the woven or knitted fabric after finishing without applying tension.
【００２４】〔熱応力〕初荷重１ｇ、加熱速度１２０秒
／３００℃で、１２５℃、１５０℃でのそれぞれの応力
を測定した。なお、１５０℃での熱応力は仕上げ加工後
の織編物から張力がかからないように抜き取った糸で測
定した。[Thermal Stress] Each stress was measured at 125 ° C. and 150 ° C. at an initial load of 1 g and a heating rate of 120 seconds / 300 ° C. Note that the thermal stress at 150 ° C. was measured with a yarn extracted from the woven or knitted fabric after finishing without applying tension.
【００２５】（実施例１）酸化チタン０．５重量％含有
のセミダル７５デニール／１８フィラメント（単繊維繊
度４．２デニール）の高収縮性ポリエチレンテレフタレ
ート糸（沸水収縮率２０％）と、酸化チタン０．５重量
％含有のセミダル１２０デニール／７２フィラメント
（単繊維繊度１．７デニール）の低収縮性ポリエチレン
テレフタレート糸（沸水収縮率−２％、複屈折率３０〜
１５０×１０−３）を、エアー圧２ｋｇ／ｃｍ２でイン
ターレース加工して混繊糸を得た。得られた混繊糸は、
糸繊度２ ００デニール、交絡数５０ケ／ｍであった。
この混繊糸にダブルツイスター撚糸機で１２００回／ｍ
（撚係数Ａ：１６９７１）の撚りを施し、７０℃で撚り
止め熱セットして撚糸とした。得られた撚糸は、１２５
℃での乾熱収縮率６％、熱応力１０ｇであった。(Example 1) Highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate yarn (boiling water shrinkage 20%) of semi-density 75 denier / 18 filament (single fiber fineness 4.2 denier) containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide and titanium oxide Low-shrinkage polyethylene terephthalate yarn containing 0.5% by weight of semi-dal 120 denier / 72 filaments (single fiber fineness 1.7 denier) (boiling water shrinkage rate -2%, birefringence 30 to
150 × 10 −3 ) was interlaced at an air pressure of 2 kg / cm 2 to obtain a mixed fiber. The obtained mixed fiber is
The yarn fineness was 200 denier and the number of entanglements was 50 / m.
1200 times / m with double twister twisting machine
(Twisting factor A: 16971) was twisted, and the twisting was heat-set at 70 ° C to obtain a twisted yarn. The obtained twisted yarn is 125
The dry heat shrinkage at 6 ° C. was 6%, and the thermal stress was 10 g.
【００２６】得られた撚糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、綾組
織の織物に製織し、１３０℃で４０分の精練・リラック
ス、９５℃で４０分での減量率２０％のアルカリ減量加
工、１３０℃で４０分の分散染料による染色を順次行っ
た。得られた織物は、ふくらみとハリ・コシのあるもの
であった。得られた織物からの経糸の撚糸は、１５０℃
での乾熱収縮率が１％、熱応力が１ｇであり、また緯糸
の撚糸は、１５０℃での乾熱収縮率が０％、熱応力が
０．５ｇであった。この織物にて婦人用スーツを縫製し
たが、１４０℃でプレスセットでの寸法変化もなく、規
格通りの製品が得られた。The obtained twisted yarn is used as a warp and a weft, and woven into a twill fabric, scouring and relaxing at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes, alkali weight reduction at 95 ° C. for 40 minutes at a weight loss rate of 20%, 130 ° C. For 40 minutes. The woven fabric obtained had swelling and firmness. The twist of the warp from the obtained woven fabric is 150 ° C.
, The dry heat shrinkage was 1% and the thermal stress was 1 g, and the twisted weft yarn had a dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C. of 0% and a thermal stress of 0.5 g. A women's suit was sewn with the woven fabric, and a product conforming to the standard was obtained at 140 ° C. without any dimensional change in the press set.
【００２７】（実施例２）酸化チタン０．５重量％含
有、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２モル％共重合
のポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるセミダル７５デ
ニール／１８フィラメント（単繊維繊度４．２デニー
ル）の高収縮性カチオン染料可染性ポリエステル糸（沸
水収縮率１８％）と、酸化チタン０．５重量％含有のセ
ミダル８０デニール／３６フィラメント（単繊維繊度
２．２デニール）の低収縮性ポリエチレンテレフタレー
ト糸（沸水収縮率−１％、複屈折率３０〜１４０×１０
−３）を、エアー圧２ｋｇ／ｃｍ２でインターレース加
工して混繊糸を得た。得られた混繊糸 は、糸繊度１６
０デニール、交絡数４５ケ／ｍであった。この混繊糸に
ダブルツイスター撚糸機で１４００回／ｍ（撚係数Ａ：
１７７０９）の撚りを施し、７０℃で撚り止め熱セット
して撚糸とした。得られた撚糸は、１２５℃での乾熱収
縮率７％、熱応力８ｇであった。(Example 2) Semi-dal 75 denier / 18 filaments (single fiber fineness 4.2 denier) composed of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide and 2% by mole of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid were used. Shrinkable cationic dye dyeable polyester yarn (18% boiling water shrinkage) and low shrinkage polyethylene terephthalate yarn of semi-dal 80 denier / 36 filament (single fiber fineness 2.2 denier) containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide ( Boiling water shrinkage -1%, birefringence 30-140 × 10
-3 ) was interlaced at an air pressure of 2 kg / cm 2 to obtain a mixed fiber. The obtained mixed yarn has a yarn fineness of 16
It was 0 denier and the number of entanglements was 45 / m. 1400 turns / m (twist coefficient A:
17709), and heat-set at 70 ° C. to give a twisted yarn. The obtained twisted yarn had a dry heat shrinkage at 125 ° C. of 7% and a thermal stress of 8 g.
【００２８】得られた撚糸を緯糸に用い、実施例１で得
られた撚糸を経糸に用い、平織組織の織物に製織し、１
３０℃で４０分の精練・リラックス、９５℃で４０分で
の減量率２０％のアルカリ減量加工、１２０℃で４０分
のカチオン染料による染色、１３０℃で４０分の分散染
料による染色を順次行った。得られた織物は、ふくらみ
とハリ・コシがあり、シャンブレー調の外観効果のある
ものであった。得られた織物からの経糸の撚糸は、１５
０℃での乾熱収縮率が１％、熱応力が１ｇであり、また
緯糸の撚糸は、１５０℃での乾熱収縮率が０．５％、熱
応力が０．５ｇであった。この織物にて婦人用スーツを
縫製したが、１４０℃でプレスセットでの寸法安定性も
特に問題なかった。The obtained twisted yarn is used as a weft, the twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 is used as a warp, and woven into a plain weave fabric.
Scouring / relaxation at 30 ° C for 40 minutes, alkali weight reduction at 95 ° C for 40 minutes with a weight loss of 20%, dyeing with a cationic dye at 120 ° C for 40 minutes, and dyeing with a disperse dye at 130 ° C for 40 minutes are sequentially performed. Was. The obtained woven fabric had swelling and firmness, and had a chambray-like appearance effect. Twist of warp from the obtained woven fabric is 15
The dry heat shrinkage at 0 ° C. was 1% and the thermal stress was 1 g. The twisted weft yarn had a dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C. of 0.5% and a thermal stress of 0.5 g. A women's suit was sewn with this woven fabric, but the dimensional stability in a press set at 140 ° C. was not particularly problematic.
【００２９】（実施例３）酸化チタン０．５重量％含
有、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２モル％共重合
のポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるセミダル５０デ
ニール／１２フィラメント（単繊維繊度４．２デニー
ル）の高収縮性カチオン染料可染性ポリエステル糸（沸
水収縮率１８％）と、酸化チタン０．５重量％含有、５
−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２モル％共重合のポリ
エチレンテレフタレートからなるセミダル８０デニール
／３６フィラメント（単繊維繊度２．２デニール）の低
収縮性カチオン染料可染性ポリエステル糸（沸水収縮率
−１％、複屈折率３０〜１４０×１０−３）を、エアー
圧５ｋｇ／ｃｍ２で流体攪乱処理加工して混繊糸を得
た。得られ た混繊糸は、糸繊度１４０デニールであっ
た。この混繊糸にダブルツイスター撚糸機で１６００回
／ｍ（撚係数Ａ：１８９３１）の撚りを施し、７０℃で
撚り止め熱セットして撚糸とした。得られた撚糸は、１
２５℃での乾熱収縮率６％、熱応力８ｇであった。(Example 3) Semi-dal 50 denier / 12 filaments (single fiber fineness 4.2 denier) composed of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide and 2 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid Shrinkable cationic dye dyeable polyester yarn (boiling water shrinkage 18%), titanium oxide 0.5% by weight, 5
-Low shrinkage cationic dye dyeable polyester yarn of 80% denier / 36 filaments (single fiber fineness of 2.2 denier) composed of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (shrinkage ratio of boiling water -1%, multiple The refractive index of 30 to 140 × 10 −3 ) was subjected to a fluid disturbance treatment at an air pressure of 5 kg / cm 2 to obtain a mixed fiber. The obtained mixed fiber had a yarn fineness of 140 denier. This mixed fiber was twisted with a double twister twisting machine at 1600 turns / m (twist coefficient A: 18931), and the twist was stopped and heat-set at 70 ° C. to obtain a twisted yarn. The obtained twisted yarn is 1
The dry heat shrinkage at 25 ° C. was 6%, and the thermal stress was 8 g.
【００３０】得られた撚糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、平織
組織の織物に製織し、１２０℃で４０分の精練・リラッ
クス、中間セット後９５℃で４０分での減量率１０％の
アルカリ減量加工、１２５℃で４０分のカチオン染料に
よる染色を順次行った。得られた織物は、ふくらみとハ
リ・コシがあり、鮮明な外観効果を有するものであっ
た。得られた織物からの経糸の撚糸は、１５０℃での乾
熱収縮率が０．５％、熱応力が０．５ｇであり、また緯
糸の撚糸は、１５０℃での乾熱収縮率が０％、熱応力が
０ｇであった。この織物にて婦人用スーツを縫製した
が、１４０℃でプレスセットでの寸法安定性も特に問題
なかった。The obtained twisted yarn is used for warp and weft, woven into a plain weave fabric, scouring / relaxing at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes, and alkali weight reduction processing at 95 ° C. for 40 minutes at 95 ° C. for 40 minutes after intermediate setting. At 125 ° C. for 40 minutes. The obtained woven fabric had swelling and firmness, and had a clear appearance effect. The twisted warp yarn from the obtained woven fabric has a dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C. of 0.5% and a thermal stress of 0.5 g, and the weft twisted yarn has a dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C. of 0%. % And thermal stress were 0 g. A women's suit was sewn with this woven fabric, but the dimensional stability in a press set at 140 ° C. was not particularly problematic.
【００３１】（実施例４）紡糸時の固有粘度が０．４９
０と０．６７５のポリエチレンテレフタレートより接合
比５０：５０に複合紡糸して得た１００デニール／２４
フィラメント（単繊維繊度４．２デニール）の高収縮性
ポリエチレンテレフタレートコンジュゲート糸（沸水収
縮率１５％）と、酸化チタン０．５重量％含有、５−ナ
トリウムスルホイソフタル酸２モル％共重合のポリエチ
レンテレフタレートからなるセミダル８０デニール／３
６フィラメント（単繊維繊度２．２デニール）の低収縮
性カチオン染料可染性ポリエステル糸（沸水収縮率０
％、複屈折率３０〜１４０×１０−３）を、エアー圧２
ｋｇ／ｃｍ２でインターレース加工して混繊糸を得た。
得られ た混繊糸は、糸繊度１８５デニールであった。
この混繊糸にダブルツイスター撚糸機で１２００回／ｍ
（撚係数Ａ：１６１００）の撚りを施し、７０℃で撚り
止め熱セットして撚糸とした。得られた撚糸は、１２５
℃での乾熱収縮率８％、熱応力１２ｇであった。(Example 4) The intrinsic viscosity during spinning was 0.49.
100 denier / 24 obtained by compound spinning from polyethylene terephthalate of 0 and 0.675 at a joining ratio of 50:50.
Highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate conjugate yarn (filtration shrinkage: 15%) of filament (single fiber fineness: 4.2 denier), polyethylene containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide and copolymerized with 2 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid Semi-Dal 80 denier / 3 made of terephthalate
6-filament (single fiber fineness: 2.2 denier) low shrinkage cationic dye dyeable polyester yarn (boiling water shrinkage: 0
%, Birefringence 30 to 140 × 10 −3 ) at an air pressure of 2
Interlacing was performed at kg / cm 2 to obtain a mixed fiber.
The obtained mixed yarn had a yarn fineness of 185 denier.
1200 times / m with double twister twisting machine
(Twist factor A: 16100) was twisted, and twisting was heat-set at 70 ° C. to obtain a twisted yarn. The obtained twisted yarn is 125
The dry heat shrinkage at 8 ° C. was 8% and the thermal stress was 12 g.
【００３２】得られた撚糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、平二
重組織の織物に製織し、１２０℃で４０分の精練・リラ
ックス、中間セット後９５℃で４０分での減量率１５％
のアルカリ減量加工、１３０℃で４０分の分散染料とカ
チオン染料の混合浴での染色を順次行った。得られた織
物は、ふくらみとハリ・コシのあるメランジ調の色彩感
のあるものであった。得られた織物からの経糸の撚糸
は、１５０℃での乾熱収縮率が１％、熱応力が２ｇであ
り、また緯糸の撚糸は、１５０℃での乾熱収縮率が１
％、熱応力が１ｇであった。この織物にて婦人用スーツ
を縫製したが、１４０℃でプレスセットでの寸法変化も
なく、規格通りの製品が得られた。The obtained twisted yarn is used as a warp and a weft and woven into a woven fabric having a flat double structure, scouring and relaxation at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes, and a weight reduction rate of 15% at 95 ° C. for 40 minutes after intermediate setting.
And dyeing in a mixed bath of a disperse dye and a cationic dye at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes. The obtained fabric had a melange-like color with a swelling and firmness. The warp twisted yarn from the obtained woven fabric has a dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C of 1% and a thermal stress of 2 g, and the weft twisted yarn has a dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C of 1%.
% And thermal stress was 1 g. A women's suit was sewn with the woven fabric, and a product conforming to the standard was obtained at 140 ° C. without any dimensional change in the press set.
【００３３】（比較例１）酸化チタン０．５重量％含有
のポリエチレンテレフタレートからなるセミダル７５デ
ニール／３６フィラメント（単繊維繊度２．１デニー
ル）のポリエステル糸（沸水収縮率９％）と、酸化チタ
ン０．５重量％含有のポリエチレンテレフタレートから
なるセミダル１２０デニール／７２フィラメント（単繊
維繊度１．７デニール）の低収縮性ポリエステル糸（沸
水収縮率−２％、複屈折率３０〜１５０×１０−３）
を、エアー圧２ｋｇ／ｃｍ２でインターレース加工して
混繊糸を得た。得られ た混繊糸は、糸繊度２００デニ
ール、交絡数５０ケ／ｍであった。この混繊糸にダブル
ツイスター撚糸機で１２００回／ｍ（撚係数Ａ：１６９
７１）の撚りを施し、７０℃で撚り止め熱セットして撚
糸とした。得られた撚糸は、１２５℃での乾熱収縮率２
％、熱応力３ｇであった。(Comparative Example 1) Polyester terephthalate containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide, a polyester yarn of semi-density 75 denier / 36 filament (single fiber fineness 2.1 denier) (boiling water shrinkage 9%) and titanium oxide A low-shrinkage polyester yarn of 120 denier / 72 filaments (single fiber fineness: 1.7 denier) composed of 0.5% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate and having a denier of 120 denier / single fiber (shrinkage ratio of boiling water: -2%, birefringence: 30 to 150 × 10 -3) )
Was interlaced at an air pressure of 2 kg / cm 2 to obtain a mixed fiber. The obtained mixed yarn had a yarn fineness of 200 denier and a confounding number of 50 yarns / m. A 1200 twist / m (twist coefficient A: 169) was applied to this mixed fiber using a double twister twisting machine.
The twist of 71) was performed, and the twist was stopped and heat-set at 70 ° C. to obtain a twisted yarn. The obtained twisted yarn has a dry heat shrinkage at 125 ° C. of 2
% And a thermal stress of 3 g.
【００３４】得られた撚糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い、綾組
織の織物に製織し、１３０℃で４０分の精練・リラック
ス、中間セット後９５℃で４０分での減量率２０％のア
ルカリ減量加工、１３０℃で４０分の分散染料による染
色を順次行った。得られた織物は、１２５℃での乾熱収
縮率、熱応力が低く、ハリ・コシ共に不足するものであ
った。The obtained twisted yarn is used for warp and weft, woven into a twill fabric, scouring and relaxing at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes, and alkali reduction at 20 ° C. for 40 minutes at 95 ° C. after intermediate setting. At 130 ° C. for 40 minutes. The obtained woven fabric had low dry heat shrinkage at 125 ° C. and low thermal stress, and was insufficient in both firmness and elasticity.
【００３５】[0035]
【発明の効果】本発明の熱収縮の異なる２種のポリエス
テルフィラメン糸からなる異収縮混繊糸の撚糸織編物
は、優れたふくらみ及びハリ・コシを有するものであ
り、また、織編物を構成する撚糸の形態での異収縮混繊
糸中にカチオン染料可染性糸が含まれるときには、視覚
上の外観効果を織編物に与えるものであり、衣料用の生
地として好適なるものである。The twisted woven or knitted fabric of the different shrinkage blended yarns of the present invention comprising two types of polyester filament yarns having different heat shrinkages has excellent swelling and firmness, and constitutes a woven or knitted fabric. When the cationically dyeable dyeable yarn is contained in the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn in the form of a twisted yarn, the yarn gives a visual appearance effect to the woven or knitted fabric, and is suitable as a cloth for clothing.
Claims (4)
ポリエステルフィラメント糸と単繊維繊度が３デニール
以下の低収縮性ポリエステルフィラメント糸との異収縮
混繊糸に撚係数Ａ（Ａ＝Ｔ・Ｄ１／２、Ｔ：撚糸数（回
／ｍ）、Ｄ：デ ニール）が８０００〜２３０００の撚
りが施された撚糸であって、撚り止め熱セット後の１２
５℃での乾熱収縮率が４％以上、１２５℃での熱応力が
７ｇ以上、仕上げ加工後の１５０℃での乾熱収縮率が２
％以下、１５０℃での熱応力が３ｇ以下の撚糸にて織編
物が構成されたことを特徴とする異収縮混繊糸の撚糸織
編物。A twist coefficient A (A = T ・) is applied to a different shrinkage blended yarn of a high shrinkage polyester filament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 2 denier or more and a low shrinkage polyester filament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 3 denier or less. D 1/2 , T: twisted yarn having a twist number (twist / m), D: denier) of 8000 to 23000, and 12
The dry heat shrinkage at 5 ° C. is 4% or more, the thermal stress at 125 ° C. is 7 g or more, and the dry heat shrinkage at 150 ° C. after finishing is 2
% Or less, wherein the heat stress at 150 ° C. is 3 g or less.
沸水収縮率１０〜５０％の高収縮性糸であり、低収縮性
ポリエステルフィラメント糸が沸水収縮率−３〜５％、
フィラメント複屈折率２０〜１７０Ｘ１０ー３の低収縮
性糸である請求項１記載の異収縮混繊糸の撚糸織編物。2. The high-shrinkable polyester filament yarn is a high-shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 10 to 50%, and the low-shrinkable polyester filament yarn is a boiling water shrinkage of -3 to 5%.
Differential shrinkage combined filament yarn twisted woven or knitted fabric of claim 1 wherein the low shrinkage yarn the filaments the birefringence 20~170X10-3.
２種のポリマーよりなるコンジュゲート糸である請求項
１または請求項２記載の異収縮混繊糸の撚糸織編物。3. The twisted woven or knitted fabric of different shrinkage mixed fiber according to claim 1, wherein the high shrinkage polyester filament yarn is a conjugate yarn comprising two kinds of polymers.
低収縮性ポリエステルフィラメント糸の少なくとも一方
がカチオン染料可染性糸であり、低収縮性ポリエステル
フィラメント糸のアルカリ減量率が高収縮性ポリエステ
ルフィラメント糸の１〜１５倍である請求項１、請求項
２または請求項３記載の異収縮混繊糸の撚糸織編物。4. A high-shrinkage polyester filament yarn in which at least one of the high-shrinkage polyester filament yarn and the low-shrinkage polyester filament yarn is a dye dyeable with a cationic dye, and the alkali weight loss rate of the low-shrinkage polyester filament yarn is 1 The twisted woven or knitted fabric of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the woven knitted fabric has a size of up to 15 times.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28631699A JP4278796B2 (en) | 1998-10-14 | 1999-10-07 | Method for producing twisted woven fabric of different shrinkage mixed yarn |
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP10-306436 | 1998-10-14 | ||
| JP30643698 | 1998-10-14 | ||
| JP28631699A JP4278796B2 (en) | 1998-10-14 | 1999-10-07 | Method for producing twisted woven fabric of different shrinkage mixed yarn |
Publications (3)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2000192348A true JP2000192348A (en) | 2000-07-11 |
| JP2000192348A5 JP2000192348A5 (en) | 2006-10-05 |
| JP4278796B2 JP4278796B2 (en) | 2009-06-17 |
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ID=26556253
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28631699A Expired - Fee Related JP4278796B2 (en) | 1998-10-14 | 1999-10-07 | Method for producing twisted woven fabric of different shrinkage mixed yarn |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2010168695A (en) * | 2009-01-23 | 2010-08-05 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Method for manufacturing copolymeric polyester textile fabric and copolymeric polyester textile fabric, and textile product |
| KR101032792B1 (en) | 2009-04-30 | 2011-05-06 | 주식회사 코오롱 | Polyester fabric for airbag and manufacturing method thereof |
-
1999
- 1999-10-07 JP JP28631699A patent/JP4278796B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2010168695A (en) * | 2009-01-23 | 2010-08-05 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Method for manufacturing copolymeric polyester textile fabric and copolymeric polyester textile fabric, and textile product |
| KR101032792B1 (en) | 2009-04-30 | 2011-05-06 | 주식회사 코오롱 | Polyester fabric for airbag and manufacturing method thereof |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP4278796B2 (en) | 2009-06-17 |
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